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The wild table from field to forkJerkPeople like it. Period.Like bacon, there aren’t many meateating folks who don’t dig jerky.My two year old?Keep it foreverenviro-foodIt’s actually a terribly underrated food, as itallows for food preservation without usingenergy to keep it safe to eat.That’s right, no refrigerationnecessary. If my freezer wereto pack it in without meknowing, my frozen meat istoast. Not my jerky. Left itout on the counter for threemonths? No problem.Put it to gooduseI hunt big game. If you hunt afair bit and have some successat it, there are times whereyou’re looking for ideas ofwhat to do with that roundroast or sirloin tip. Jerky isyour solution. This spring and summer, you’ll(hopefully) be using up the rest of last fall’sgame. Make lots, and you’ll be glad you didwhen it’s time to pack food for your nexthunting trip. Jerky makes choice field-food.the recipeHates meat. Loves jerky.• by Kevin KossowanHow to make it?Forget buying the stuff. Look at thosepackages and keep in mind jerky should bemeat, salt, and some aromatics to make ittasty. Dismayed by the ingredient list? Me too.Make it yourself. It’s easy.You can make jerky out ofany piece of meat, but it’sfar easier if you start with abig cut. A favourite is roundof moose or elk, as it’s agood size, and because theslices are big they’re easierto manage in the dryingprocess. Remember thatyou’re eating uncooked meat,so make sure your meat isgood quality—save the packof freezer-burned ruttingbuck for something else (notsure what).Drying meat is not rocket science, butrequires some ingenuity, which makes it fun.You can hang strips over a smouldering fire.I put the strips of meat on baking racks overa wood fire that’s cool enough not to cookthe meat, but just warm enough to generatesome smoke. Most folks will use an oven onits lowest setting with the door slightly ajar.Whatever method you use, keep in mind thatwe’re not cooking it, just drying it.SaskatoonsGive it a shotWhile out snacking on your homemade jerky,take a look to see if the saskatoons are ready.The verdict on the saskatoon’s culinary valuedepends on who you ask. It seems to be a bitof a love-hate fruit, and I’ll happily acceptthe task of trying to encourage the haters tochange camps.I think I’ve put my finger on what peopledon’t like; it has a seedy and robust texturecompared to the blueberry folks are used to.But in exchange, the saskatoon delivers bigin both the yield and flavour departments,with a unique almond extract tone. Haven’tseen any stats on it, but I’d guess you’re lesslikely to be eaten by bears while pickingsaskatoons—always a bonus.Anything goesWhat to do with them? My kids eat themfrozen. They’re good in most bakingapplications…saskatoon pancakes are lovely.Make syrup for flavouring yogurt or ice cream.Jam. If you have loads, make wine. They pairfantastically with game meats. If you needguidance on that front, you can find more onmy website at www.kevinkossowan.com. nphotos: istockphotoper pound of meat1 tbsp kosher salt1 tbsp soy sauce2 tsp dark brown sugar2 cloves garlic, minced1 tsp cracked black pepper1 tsp dried chili [optional]Slice meat thin and most importantly—evenly—while stillpartially frozen. Mix with marinade ingredients above,and refrigerate for a day to three. Dry via your method ofchoice. Note that jerky pieces never finish all at the sametime, so you have to pull them off as they get to a textureyou like.Note: Goose, turkey and pheasant make good jerky as well.Kevin Kossowan is a local food writer deeplyCONSERVATION MAGAZINE SPRING/SUMMER 2012involved in Alberta’s urban agriculture and foragingcommunities. He believes wild foods are critical toour regional food culture. Join us every issue as hecelebrates and advocates Alberta’s regional foods withtips, recipes and fresh ideas.WILD ON THE WEBab-conservation.com/mag/easypicksDiscover more berry picking locations, tips and recipes.11