fine+rare-burgundy-2013

2013: The VintageThe standard question to ask a winemaker when tasting his youngest proposition is: “so, what vintage would you compare this to?”The 2011s were compared by many to 2007s, 2012s as a cross between 2010 & 2009, and so on. The answer in 2013 is quite tricky, but thevintage that was mentioned most was 2008, but with a bit more punch, a bit more weight.I share this view though would suggest that 2013 is a cross of 2008 and 2012: the savoury crunchiness of the former yet with some of the flesh ofthe latter. What is clear is that, for the best growers, and those in the Cote de Beaune that escaped the hail, there are some exceptionally goodwines with a distinct style and character.The growing season of 2013 was a challenging one. That there are no more bad vintages these days is a line that is mostly spun by the Bordelaisthough the same goes for Burgundy, albeit probably for different reasons. Indeed maybe just one: a bit more care is taken these days. Sure,there are still a number of vignerons who did what their father, and as his father before him did; and who disappear down South for a month inAugust leaving the vines to do what they will. But for the most part, quality is as high as it has ever been in Burgundy and this is as much downto viticulture (as opposed to vinification and elevage) as anything else.Just one vigneron told me that 2013 would have been a write-off 20 years ago. And I don’t think that this was a vintage rescued in the winery.This is a vintage that was made by viticulture – looking after the vines - and a bit of working on the sorting table.What 2013 lacked was sunshine. 2013s are not “ripe” in the sunshine sense of the word. If you want to know what “ripe” in the sunshine senseof the word is then drink a bottle of 2009 Burgundy (a delicious vintage, occasionally derided for its ripeness). But what 2013s most definitelyaren’t, is unripe. Because whilst the grapes may have lacked a bit of “sugar” ripeness, what they didn’t lack is phenolic, or physiological ripeness.These are not “green” wines – a few Bourgogne Rouges aside I didn’t taste a hint of unripeness in a week. What I did taste was a completeness:a completeness of character.The word that repeats most often in my notes is “savoury”. And I like savoury. Sure: I love the sweetness of 2009s – a vintage that is justdelicious on the table. Bistro Bourgogne. But what 2013 has is just a touch more complexity and a touch more of an intellectual edge. 2009sare playful wines – and there is nothing wrong with playful. 2013s – I think – are a bit more grown up.The first comment on the whites is that there isn’t much wine. With a crop already down on account of poor flowering, much of the Cote deBeaune, from Pernand-Vergelesses down to Meursault was hit by a severe hailstorm at the end of June. That some growers lost up to 90% oftheir crop made the news at the time.The best of the growers have done well with what was left. Dominique Lafon told us that 2013 at its best reminded him of 2010. This is highpraise and justified; Mr Lafon’s 2013s are spectacular. Other growers were similarly happy with the quality of their wines, if often frustrated at thelack of quantity.www.frw.co.uk 2013 Burgundy #2013Burgundy 3