Scotland Via Ferrata Expeditions Alpine 4000 Nick Bullock Andy ...

KYRGYZSTAN
British Kyrgyz-Kuilu
This expedition celebrates the 50th anniversary
of Chester Mountaineering Club and
aims to cater for a wide range of abilities.
Robin Gibson’s 13-member team plan to
visit the Kuilu-Too range in Kyrgyzstan to
make first ascents of peaks upto 5250m.
Eagle Ski Club Ak Shiirak
Steve Wright and team plan the exploration
and first ski traverse of the Ak Shiirak
in the Tien Shan of Kyrgyzstan. Because of
nearby mines there is a primitive road network
in the area, so access will be by sixwheel
drive vehicles. There are at least ten
peaks in the range of 4500 – 5300m, many
of which should be climbable on ski.
GREENLAND
SMC Greenland 2003
A strong four-man team organized by
Stephen Reid hope to make the first ascent
of the 1000m South Ridge of Dansketinde
(2930m) the highest peak in the Staunings
Alps. A chartered helicopter will drop them
on Col Major, at the foot of their route.
Wales Greenland 2003
Sue Savege’s five-women expedition plans
to visit Schweizerland to climb new routes
on the south Face of Tupilak (2264m) and
the North Face of Rodebjerg (2140m) - plus
subsidiary peaks in the area. They also intend
to make a film about the trip.
Knud Rasmussen Land
This six-person trip led by Bob Dawson, will
attempt a number of first ascents of peaks
in the Knud Rasmussen Land in East Greenland.
They will land at c.1700m on a glacier
that will give them easy access to two
mountain chains.
Southern Kangerdlugssuaq
Brian Davison is returning to the Kronprins
Frederiks Berge area of East Greenland to
carry on with the exploration of previous
years, and climb as many of the remaining
virgin peaks as possible.
30
Torssukatak Spires
Jon Roberts and three friends have selected
the Cape Farewell area for their first visit to
Greenland. They will establish a base camp
on Pamiagdluk Island from which to explore
the potential for one or two-day free
rock routes of VS to E2.
Prins Christian Sund
A talented team including Ben Heason, Miles
Gibson and Steve McClure are hitting the
Prins Christian Sund area of South Greenland.
The team plan to climb various granite
faces producing some hard free routes.
Midnight Sun
The Rignys Bjerg range is the destination
for this eight-person trip led by Martin Bohl.
After landing on the glacier they hope to
make first ascents of three peaks (2680m,
2390m & 2380m).
Scottish SE Greenland
After collecting the pulks that have been
stored since their 1999 trip, regular
‘Greenlanders’, Douglas Campbell and
Malcolm Thorburn will continue with unsupported
ice cap travel by ski coupled
with mountaineering ascents en-route.
Scottish Lemon Mountains
The Lemon Mountains still offer plenty of
scope for first ascents and new routes.
Graham Stein’s ten-person team plan to set
up a base camp on the Hedgehog Glacier
from which to explore the area between the
Lucy and Courtauld Glaciers.
HIMALAYA
Annapurna III SW Ridge
Attempted by at least three siege expeditions,
the SW Ridge of Annapurna III
(7550m) has resisted all comers. But it might
fall to an alpine style approach by Kenton
Cool and a very strong team.
Virgin Summits - Tibet
Four experienced expeditioners led by Adam
Thomas plan to explore as many peaks as
possible from an unnamed and rarely vis-
ited valley to the west of Niwu (Nye) in the
Nyainqentanglha East range of Tibet. Of
particular interest are Nenang (6870m) and
Jajacho (6575m).
Khumbu Alpine Style
Nick Bullock, Jules Cartwright and Al Powell
plan to climb new routes ‘quick & light’ on
three well known peaks in Nepal: the SW
Face of Kusum Kangguru (6367m), the North
Face of Lobuje (6145m) and the North Face
of Kwangde Lho (6187m).
British Qomo Lhari
Roger Payne and Julie-Ann Clyma attempt
the first ascent of the NW Ridge of Qomo
Lhari (7314m) in the South of Tibet. The
peak was first climbed by Spencer-Chapman
in 1937, however the long, elegant NW
Ridge, which offers technical mixed climbing,
remains untouched.
Reo Purgyil North Face
This will be the Julie-Ann Clyma’s fifth attempt
to obtain a permit for the first ascent
of the North Face of Reo Purgyil (6816m).
No foreign team has been allowed in since
its two previous ascents by Indian teams
via the West Ridge in 1971 & 1991.
British Da Kangri
John Town’s three-man team plan to visit
Toling Dechen county of central Tibet, a
mountainous area in the south of the
Nyanchen Tangla range with many
unclimbed 6000m summits. They have chosen
Da Kangri (6247m) as their objective,
which they hope to climb from the north.
CHINA
British Mt Grosvenor
The Daxue Shan Range of Sichuan Province
is largely unexplored, and contains several
6000m peaks which have never been attempted.
One of these is Mt Grosvenor
(6376m), and Mick Fowler’s four-man team
hope to bag the first ascent.
Mammut/Ajungilak competition
The Ajungilak Kompakt Speed Light is a
revolution in weight and volume reduction. The summer
version weighs only 500g and packs into a tiny
2.1 litres. An unrivalled performance gives a true
alternative to moisture sensitive down sleeping bags
for backpacking, adventure racing, and alpine climbing.
Contact Ajungilak for your nearest stockist on
01286 873520.
EXPEDITIONS
Win one of three
Ajungilak Kompakt SL bags worth £165!
Just answer the following question:
On what mountain would you find
“The Fathers and Sons Wall”?
�������������������������
Ajungilak Summit Competition, BMC, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester,
M20 2BB. Or email summit@thebmc.co.uk.
Closing Date is 01/08/03, and winners will be announced in the Summit 31. If you
do not wish to be contacted for future Ajungilak/Mammut/DMM offers, please state
on your entry.
47