gourmet traveller - Cayman Islands

gourmet travellermain picture:rum point ongrand cayman.left to right:a frog takestime out on thewhite sands;the islands’interiors arehome to avariety of birds;local farmerkent rankin; acolourful mixof seasoningand scotchbonnet peppers;breadfruitat lookoutfarm; coconutsquares servedat pirate’s point66 70food & travel

The Cayman Islandsare better known fortheir pristine reefs andoffshore banking thanfor the thriving local foodscene that Rachel Trumandiscovers as she divesbeneath the surface ofthe welcoming isles inthe Caribbean Seayoucan bank on itCaymanphotography by carl pendle

travel strapclockwise, fromtop left: naseberrycobbler servedat pirate’s pointresort; corita,owner of corita’scopper kettle ingeorge town – theplace to go fora traditionalCaribbeanbreakfast; freshlypicked naseberriesand plantains;delicate frangipaniflowers; packedwith seeds – greenguava; toweringpapaya tree ladenwith tropicalfruit; clotheshang out to dryin bodden townfood & travel 69

gourmet travellerto import some seafood to satisfy customers,such as scallops and oysters. Conch is the NewYorker’s prized local find, served in his celebratedtrio of ceviche. Brower also sources other islandproduce from the ‘ma and pop’ operations hehas discovered since arriving from Eric Ripert’sNew York restaurant, Le Bernardin; fruit andvegetables come from Willie Ebanks’ farm andhe uses hand-harvested Cayman sea salt.A surprising number of small food producerscan be found, even in the most unlikely places.Petrol station attendants sell squares of theirauntie’s heavy cakes and tubs of home-grownseasoning peppers, while upstairs in the RoyalWatler Cruise Ship, terminal local couple Lindsayand Andrea Bodden sell ice cream. Inspired byLindsay’s childhood memories of hand-crankedcoconut ice cream, Caymanian Traditions useisland-grown seasonal fruits (naseberry, soursop,guava, grapenut, coconut and mango) in theirexotic creations. Office manager by week,pepper jelly purveyor by weekend, Carol Haymakes Pepper Patch Jelly in her kitchen in whatshe describes as ‘a hobby gone mad’, boiling up36 jars a week of this potent blend made withscotch bonnets, mutton and seasoning peppersgrown in her garden.The biggest challenges are ‘space andsoil’, says Brian Crichlow of the Departmentof Agriculture, which encourages islanders tohone their farming and food production skills.Despite, or perhaps because of, this and thehurricanes that regularly wreak havoc here, anentrepreneurial spirit is evident as locals seek toproduce their own food. He takes us to see KentRankin’s successful energy-efficient farm. Herears pigs, goats and red bulls (his pride and joy)for meat, along with tropical fruits and vegetables,and even makes his own charcoal, which fires upthe grills at his jerk chicken stand. Kent’sWhere to EATAverage cost per head for two courses, notincluding drinks, unless otherwise stated.Blue by Eric Ripert Seven Mile Beach, GrandCayman (00 1 345 943 9000; ritzcarlton.com).Grand Cayman’s smartest restaurant featureslocally caught and sustainable seafood. Dishessuch as crepe-thin slices of yellowfin tuna, servedwith foie gras and toasted baguette, and sautéedmahi mahi with a shrimp and ginger emulsionshow off chef Richard Brower’s (ex-Le Bernardin)prowess. $100 for three-course menu.Calypso Grill Morgan’s Harbour, WestBay, Grand Cayman (00 1 345 949 3948;calypsogrillcayman.com). Fabulous location onthe docks of wealthy, residential West Bay. Enjoyyellowfin tuna spring rolls served with a punchywasabi ginger sauce or blackened mahi mahisteak on the outdoor decking. $45.Champion House II 43 Eastern Avenue,George Town, Grand Cayman (00 1 345 9497882; championhouse.ky). An oasis of calm inan industrial part of town. Outside papaya treeshang heavy with fruit, while inside owner DorothyScott serves up Caymanian favourites includingrundowns and sensational heavy cakes. $14.Corita’s Copper Kettle Edward Street, GeorgeTown, Grand Cayman (00 1 345 949 2696). Gofor a traditional Caribbean breakfast – don’t missthe banana fritters. $12 for breakfast with coffee.Cracked Conch North West Point Road, WestBay, Grand Cayman (00 1 345 945 5217;crackedconch.com.ky). Refined Caribbeancooking and local ingredients are served withfinesse – think wine-braised turtle and tunaspiced with jerk seasoning. $50.Hammerheads Brew Pub and GrillWaterfront, George Town, Grand Cayman(00 1 345 949 3080). Manager Amit supportsthe fish market on the beach below, offering tocook any fish bought there in the restaurant. Itis a great waterfront spot to sip Cali Light beer,made onsite, or the island’s first distilled rum,Seven Fathoms. Smooth and sweet, it is madefrom local sugar cane and aged in oak barrelsunder 13m of water. $24.The Lighthouse Bodden Town Road,Breakers, Grand Cayman (00 1 345 9472047; lighthouse.ky). Run by charismatic ItalianGiuseppe Gatta and his British wife, the island’slighthouse makes a romantic spot to savourlocal ingredients treated with Italian flair. $49.Rum Point Restaurant and Wreck BarRum Point/Cayman Kai, Grand Cayman(00 1 345 947 9412; rumpointclub.com).The restaurant is only open in the evenings –get there early to see sunset and savour chefDesmond Marshall’s turtle cutlets with scotchbonnet jam, conch ceviche and guava-rubbedpork tenderloin. $43. During the day, the barcaféis the place for conch fritters and cocktails.Vivine’s Kitchen Austin Drive, East End,Grand Cayman (00 1 345 947 7435). Notremotely fancy but Vivine’s food is fresh andtasty with a scenic setting over Gun Bay. $18.Welly’s Cool Spot 110 North Sound Road,George Town, Grand Cayman (00 1 345949 2541). You might get lost trying to findthis place but persevere if you want to eattraditional food – it’s where the workers andchefs go to get their fix. $10 for a main course.76food & travel