download - OATG. Oxford Asian Textile Group

23Embroidered cover for a Lee Enfield rifle(Photo by Judith Gussin reproduced by permission of Sheila Paine)Sheila was asked to write a volume on Embroidery from Afghanistan for the FabricFolios series of the British Museum Press (see review below p. 26), as well as to up datematerial for another book, so she returned in 2005. This time she was able to stay in acompound in Kabul which she had had great difficulty in reaching on her first trip.Although advised to travel everywhere by taxi she did explore the main tourist street –Chicken Street – on foot though there were many gangs of men and boys carrying guns. Themen wore Kandahar shirts and sometimes had embroidered covers for their guns. People wereworking on the street at every trade including money changers and dentists, and children triedto make a living by selling water.As well as slides showing the countryside and terrain Sheila brought some wonderfulexamples of embroidered textiles including a purple Pashtun dress from Makran, a black andwhite garment from south of Nuristan and a velvet Koochi dress decorated with coins andbeads. There were also embroidered bags, caps, shawls and an example of the traditionalKandahar shirt which is still worn today. She also brought a beautifully stitched cover for aLee Enfield rifle for us to see.The embroideries are as diverse as the different tribes which make up Afghanistan.With the exception of the Hazara, who live in the centre, most tribes spread over the borderinto neighbouring countries. Embroidery was banned by the Taliban as an example offrivolity, as were balloons and kites, and although circumstances are still very difficult, thereare now aid agencies promoting Afghan embroidery and assisting women to set up their ownbusinesses.This amazing lecture by a very intrepid lady gave us a fascinating insight into acountry we usually only hear bad news about, but which has a rich cultural heritage of whichits embroidery is an important part.Judith Gussin