henrik ibsen

what’s cooking“Dining with Henrik IbsenHead Chef at Per Gynt Gaarden, Tor Kramperud Arnesen,has made it his mission to explore the diet of local farmers in the1800s. At Per Gynt Gaarden, he serves food based exclusivelyon ingredients found locally in the valley Gudbrandsdalen, andon cookbooks from the period when Ibsen was alive.BY TOR KRAMPERUD ARNESENIcompose menus based on old cookbooks and prepare food that mighthave been served in Gudbrandsdalenin the 1800s. These booksreveal a use of herbs, spices and vegetablesthat is mostly forgotten inNorwegian cooking today. My missionis to revive these old recipes forthe palatable pleasure of the guests atPer Gynt Gaarden.Foreigners who traveled throughthe area at that time describe a simpleand fairly basic cuisine, mostly consistingof flatbread; dried and curedmeat; milk-based dishes like soupsand different porridges; and otherwisethe common elements of traditionalNorwegian cuisine, like potatoesand herring. These travelerswould occasionally drop by unannouncedand had to settle with whateverwas available, usually food thatcould be stored for a long time indried condition. Planned meals wouldmore commonly be based on freshmeat or fish.The time of year would determinethe menu. There were no fresh foodsin the fridge or fresh imported foodslike we're used to today. Potatoes andother root crops were stored in cellars,and were portioned out to lastuntil the next fall. As soon as springAppetizerCaraway SoupThe caraway is gathered, rinsed andchopped. Butter and wheat flour is heated,and veal broth is added. The soup boils for 10minutes before the caraway is added. Addsome salt and pepper, and serve with half aboiled egg in each soup bowl.First Main CourseCanned Grouse withMashed PotatoesGrouses that are canned need to be flawless.They are plucked, divided into smallerpieces and heat-treated. After that, they areput along with the broth into cans, until thecans are sealed and heat-treated again.They're removed from the cans before preparingthe dish, dipped in sour cream. They are12 | www.norway.org/foodarrived, however, fresh produce wasreadily available: Both caraway andnettle was used for soups, andrhubarb grew quickly in spring, makingit a good choice for soups, porridgesand cake stuffing. These arethe premises for the menu below.It is based on a planned meal,made only with ingredients we knowwere available in the Fron areaaround the time of Ibsen. Again, theseason would largely determine themenu: If the meal was in the fall, onewould have fresh meat from largergame, like moose or reindeer, as wellas of different wild birds like grouseand of rabbits.If the meal was set just beforeChristmas or in spring, the menuwould consist of fresh meat, like beef,pork and lamb. A meal in the summertimewould have more curedmeats, and more fresh fish. Meatcould be preserved by canning, but inthe 1800s, canning was a complicatedand time-consuming process, with tinboxes filled with meat before sealedand warmed up.Now, Imagine Henrik Ibsen comingto the farm to absorb the atmospherethere, while writing a new playset in the Fron area. He might havebeen served the following menu:cooked in a skillet until brown, and keptwarm as the sauce is prepared.The broth from the can is blended withcream. The sauce is boiled and strained. Thegrouse meat is put on a plate, and the saucepoured on top.Garnish: Mashed potatoes and boiled celeryroots. The mashed potatoes are made bypushing potatoes through a strainer, andadding cream until the desired thickness isreached. Salt and pepper added to taste.Second Main Course:Fried Mountain Trout withFlatbreadUse fresh Mountain Trout of average size.Gut it thoroughly and dry it in a piece ofcloth. Make small incisions in its skin, andsprinkle a little salt and pepper on the inside.PHOTOS COURTESY OF PER GYNT GAARDENIbsen traveled to Gudbrandsdalen in the 1860s. Using ingredientsavailable at the time, here is how I would have prepared dinner:Cook the trout until it is golden and the boneslet go. Serve immediately with flatbread andwhipped sour cream with shredded horseradish.DessertRhubarb Omelet5 egg yolks are stirred with 2-3 tablespoonsof sugar, 2 fi ounces of melted butterand 12 ounces of milk or cream. Add 2 fiounces of either wheat or potato flour. The 5egg whites are whipped and added in last. 6-10 rhubarb stems are rinsed, diced and boiledwith sugar until it becomes porridge, but notfor too long. Add in a little more sugar totaste. Cook in a pudding tin at maximum heat,and serve with cane sugar.See page 8 for more about Per Gynt Gaarden