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shake h<strong>an</strong>ds with <strong>the</strong> devil 27<br />
Broadcasting Corporation – <strong>the</strong> SABC. He had filmed his fair<br />
share of <strong>the</strong> horrors that engulfed <strong>the</strong> country’s townships at <strong>the</strong><br />
end of apar<strong>the</strong>id: ‘necklace’ burnings, beatings <strong>an</strong>d riots among<br />
<strong>the</strong>m. None of us had travelled to Liberia before. We dr<strong>an</strong>k beers,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d tried to imagine what might be in store for us.<br />
I wrote two long letters to <strong>the</strong> LURD rebels (‘to whom it<br />
may concern’), <strong>an</strong>d faxed <strong>an</strong>d emailed <strong>the</strong>m to Sierra Leone care<br />
of Cobus, as pl<strong>an</strong>ned. I asked for access to <strong>the</strong>ir leadership, <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
bases <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>ir forward-deployed fighting forces. In return I<br />
promised objectivity, a fair hearing <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> potential for massmedia<br />
exposure – but I was careful not to give <strong>an</strong>y guar<strong>an</strong>tee that<br />
this exposure would be entirely or even partially positive. The<br />
facts would have to speak for <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
Cobus took <strong>the</strong> letters to Conakry in person <strong>an</strong>d saw that <strong>the</strong>y<br />
were delivered, a week later <strong>an</strong>d with Americ<strong>an</strong> endorsement,<br />
into <strong>the</strong> h<strong>an</strong>ds of Sekou Conneh – <strong>the</strong> LURD’s national chairm<strong>an</strong>.<br />
Conneh replied, immediately, with <strong>an</strong> emphatic ‘Yes’ to Cobus<br />
through intermediaries in Conakry.<br />
I applied for <strong>the</strong> notoriously difficult Guine<strong>an</strong> visas for <strong>the</strong><br />
crew, <strong>an</strong>d had <strong>the</strong>m authorised on <strong>the</strong> spot. The production<br />
comp<strong>an</strong>y shipped in flak jackets <strong>from</strong> Nairobi, <strong>an</strong>d cut a deal<br />
with Cobus. Dudley <strong>an</strong>d M<strong>an</strong>dla would be put onto three-week<br />
paid contracts. There would be no fee for me for going to Liberia.<br />
I was kept on <strong>the</strong> books with a modest retainer; <strong>the</strong> only money<br />
I might receive for going would be a share of profits after future,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d as yet unimagined, sales. The BBC expressed interest, but gave<br />
nei<strong>the</strong>r promises, nor cash. In short, <strong>the</strong> production comp<strong>an</strong>y was<br />
taking <strong>an</strong> enormous gamble on <strong>the</strong> trip, with cash it did not have<br />
to spare.<br />
Nick, who lived in Pretoria, drove to Joh<strong>an</strong>nesburg to meet<br />
me. We bought tents, dried food, water purifiers, mosquito nets<br />
<strong>an</strong>d enough medical supplies to equip a small hospital. Everything<br />
was written down <strong>an</strong>d ticked off meticulously in his notebook.