February 2012 - The Senior Times

Clockwise from top: Evdilos village; a mule on the way to Kampos; a dish for two in Evdilos; young hipsters at Kampos beach; Irwin trekking to Kampos.
and we returned to Evdilos, where we had docked.
There we spent the next 18 hours, after booking
a ferry, which left at 4:30 am and would take us
back to Samos Island and its capital, Vathie. Had
we known then that Evdilos would prove to be such
a charming little place, we would have perhaps
stayed another couple of days.
We took a room in a nice little modern hotel with
a pool, right in the heart of the village. We dined
twice at a fabulous little fish restaurant overlooking
the harbour and watched children swim in the
clear, still waters that run deep.
We ordered a huge seafood plate with grilled vegetables
and ended up meeting a group of former
revolutionaries who dined with us. They were the
friendliest group of Greek tourists we had met.
There to attend the wedding of their children,
they regaled us with stories of the history of
Icaria.
The huge plates of fresh seafood, the silence,
broken only by laughter among fellow diners and
the splish-splash of the children frolicking in the
harbour made for an unforgettable evening.
Evdilos is the first village we’ve visited where
there is virtually no English spoken or written
on menus and tourists are a tiny minority. No
hustling either.
At 4:30 am, we took the ferry back to the Samos
capital, Vathie, for two nights and then to the last
island on our five-week escapade, Limnos.
www.theseniortimes.com February 2012 The Senior TimeS 27