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Dorlastan in the Field of Warp Knitting - Fashion Trendsetter

Dorlastan in the Field of Warp Knitting - Fashion Trendsetter

Dorlastan in the Field of Warp Knitting - Fashion Trendsetter

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<strong>Dorlastan</strong> Product Information – <strong>Warp</strong> Knitt<strong>in</strong>g2.2 <strong>Dorlastan</strong> on Tricot Mach<strong>in</strong>esBecause <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir f<strong>in</strong>e mach<strong>in</strong>e gauges“ E 28 up to E 40, tricot mach<strong>in</strong>es areappropriate for <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Dorlastan</strong> titers 17 to 80 dtex. They are processed<strong>in</strong>to tightly constructed, f<strong>in</strong>e elastic fibers on <strong>the</strong>se mach<strong>in</strong>es. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> articlesare produced with two guide bars, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m be<strong>in</strong>g threaded with <strong>Dorlastan</strong>.<strong>Dorlastan</strong> can be warp-knitted with <strong>the</strong> lapp<strong>in</strong>g movements produc<strong>in</strong>g jerseystitch, sat<strong>in</strong> stitch and comb<strong>in</strong>ations <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se. It is, however, better to replace<strong>the</strong> tension bars commonly used on tricot mach<strong>in</strong>es by matt chromium-platedguid<strong>in</strong>g elements, e.g. rollers, for <strong>the</strong> elastic warp.Where rotat<strong>in</strong>g tension rollers are <strong>in</strong>stalled as guid<strong>in</strong>g devices it must be ensuredby all means that no imbalance occurs <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir runn<strong>in</strong>g motion. Due to <strong>the</strong> highyarn consumption <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> loop-form<strong>in</strong>g elastic material, high tension builds up <strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> yarn between clear<strong>in</strong>g and cast<strong>in</strong>g-<strong>of</strong>f. If <strong>the</strong> tension roller is not runn<strong>in</strong>gevenly, <strong>the</strong>se forces will become evident <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> gray and <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ished fabric asstripes repeated at short <strong>in</strong>tervals.The f<strong>in</strong>e <strong>Dorlastan</strong> titers 17 to 80 dtex that are wound on <strong>the</strong> sectional beam witha warp<strong>in</strong>g elongation <strong>of</strong> 40 to 50% should be treated with great care when <strong>the</strong>mach<strong>in</strong>e is adjusted to <strong>the</strong> respective article. Improper handl<strong>in</strong>g can lead to yarnbreakage which - particularly as <strong>the</strong> thread<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> broken ends is more difficul<strong>the</strong>re than e.g. with polyamide yarns - will <strong>of</strong>ten result <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>terruptions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>production process.The possibilities <strong>of</strong> work<strong>in</strong>g with very high tensions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Dorlastan</strong> thread arelimited due to <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong> stra<strong>in</strong> on <strong>the</strong> needles due to <strong>the</strong> force <strong>of</strong> fabrictake-down may be too high (<strong>the</strong> threads fed <strong>in</strong> form an angle <strong>of</strong> about 90° with<strong>the</strong> knitted fabric taken <strong>of</strong>f) and this will lead to manufactur<strong>in</strong>g problems.The raschel mach<strong>in</strong>e permits higher thread tension and higher take-<strong>of</strong>f forces.Here, <strong>the</strong> thread material fed <strong>in</strong> and <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ished fabric taken <strong>of</strong>f form an angle <strong>of</strong>about 180°.For quality control purposes and to determ<strong>in</strong>e <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>al sett<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>of</strong> an elasticarticle construction, <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> yarn consumed is recorded <strong>in</strong> centimeters perrack (480 courses). The percentage <strong>of</strong> <strong>Dorlastan</strong> <strong>in</strong> a particular fabric can beregulated by <strong>the</strong> knitt<strong>in</strong>g construction to vary between 10% and 40% for a s<strong>in</strong>gletiter comb<strong>in</strong>ation.10

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