A Beautiful JourneyBy Renee <strong>Henderson</strong> MalzahnI have always longed to travel to Scotland and explore the land of myancestors. Dave and I planned our trip for early May, not a time thatmany recommend this trip. It turned out to be extraordinary.We arrived in London on May 2 and spent a few days withfriends who live just north of London. <strong>The</strong>n, havinghad a few days to acclimate ourselves to driving on theopposite side of the road, we rented a car and headed north. Truly,the further north we traveled, the more beautiful the scenery.Reaching the Scotland border, was a breath of fresh air. <strong>The</strong>rolling hills stretched out before us, scattered with sheep anddotted with the deep yellow of the gorse, in full bloom. Wecontinued north to Edinburgh. <strong>The</strong> journey took us seven toeight hours but that incorporated plenty of stops to take in theview of the countryside and walk along Haddrian’s Wall.As we arrived in Edinburgh, we were pleasantly surprisedat how quickly we found our B&B as night was falling. <strong>The</strong>B&B’s on the west side of town are plentiful and at this timeof year not solidly booked. We had made reservations aheadof time, but found we would have been fine to have notcommitted ourselves. We stayed at the Beresford Hotel whichserved a full Scottish breakfast every morning. A full Scottishbreakfast included Fried eggs, bacon, sausage, toast and tea orcoffee. Cereals and fruit were also available.Our first day inEdinburgh, we hadarranged a visit withAvis Swarbrick. Avislives on the grounds ofFordell Castle, ownedby the <strong>Henderson</strong>s from1510 until 1953. Avislives in what is nowcalled the Pitadro House.Her home was thegardener’s house whenthe estate belonged tothe <strong>Henderson</strong>s. In1953, the estate was soldoff in lots. All who liveon the estate groundscontinue to share a rightof way through theproperty.<strong>The</strong> castle itself isAvis Swarbrick and ReneeMalzahn at the Pitadro Houseowned by an Englishman in the oil business whose wife is fromRussia. She does not speak English and does little venturingbeyond the castle gate. Since buying the property, surveillancecameras have been installed and locks placed on several gatesrestricting access by the property. <strong>The</strong> area surrounding theproperty, though, is still common ground for those living onother parts of the estate. Avis and her nephew travel theseareas by foot and car several times a year in order to maintaintheir right of way on the property.Avis greeted us as old friends, though we had never met before.She had met my father, Claude <strong>Henderson</strong>, on one of his previousvisits. My father, consistent with his character, had exchangedaddresses with her. She continues to keep a letter he sent, aftertheir meeting, which informed her of <strong>Clan</strong> <strong>Henderson</strong> <strong>Society</strong>.After visiting in the morning, Avis took us on a grand tour ofthe property. About 1220 “Richard, son of Hugh de Camera,presented to the Monastery of Inchcolm ‘thirteen acres of landin his territory of Fordell, lying near the sea, between the landsof Dalgety and the lands of Lowchald’ (now called Leuchat),together with a toft and croft in his town of Fordell.” <strong>The</strong>monks mined the coal that runs through the ground there. Arailway built from the monastery to the Bay for transport of thecoal from the estate to Dalgety Bay is still discernable on partsof the estate.<strong>The</strong> following information is provided in documentationprovided by Avis Swarbrick. <strong>The</strong> printed source documentsthe history of Fordell Estate, but is not identifiable.Fordell has been the seat of the Henrysons or <strong>Henderson</strong>ssince the beginning of the sixteenth century. It is probable thata portion of theestate had beenheld previous tothis time, as thename of ‘JohnHenryson of Fordale,serjand of thebaronie of Fordale’appears in a charterof 1465. In the firsthalf of the fifteenthAvis and Renee at the main gateof Fordell Castle.century Fordellbelonged to SirWilliam de Erth(Airth) of Plean,Stirlingshire, andat his death about1449 it was dividedamongst his fivedaughters. In 1510Magister JamesHenryson, burgess of Edinburgh, King’s advocate and justiceclerk, who appears to have been the nephew of Henryson ofFordell, began to purchase the various portions of the estatefrom the descendants of Sir William de Airth; and on the 7 th April1511, he obtained from James IV, a charter uniting them in tothe free barony of Fordell. Of this notable personage, Douglasrecords that ‘he was a man of great bravery and resolution,had accompanied James IV, in the unfortunate expedition intoEngland, and both he and his eldest son lost their lives with20 An Canach Winter 2006
Fordell Castle as viewed through the main gate.their royal leader at the field of Flodden.’ His only survivingson, George Henryson, succeeded in 1513, and extended thepossessions of the family before his death in 1542. George<strong>Henderson</strong>, his son, was married to Mariota Scott of StraitounHall, who was one of the Maids of Honour to Queen Mary. Ithas been repeatedly asserted that the Queen visited Fordell onthe occasion of the marriage, but this is extremely unlikely, asthat event took place in 1546, when the Queen was little overthree years old. George <strong>Henderson</strong> was slain at Pinkiecleughin 1547. His only son James was a favourite of James VI, andobtained a new charter of Fordell in 1580. John <strong>Henderson</strong>,his eldest son, was knighted by that monarch and survivedtill about 1625. In referring to his son and successor, Sir John<strong>Henderson</strong>, Douglas quotes from a history of the family printedin 1714 to the effect that ‘having betaken himself to a militarylife, he had a considerable command upon the coast of Africa,where, after a defeat, he was taken prisoner by the barbarians,and when he was upon the point of being destroyed by them,was ransomed by a lady.’ . . . On his return to this country(Scotland), he took an active part with the Royalists, and wasknighted by Charles I. He was succeeded by his eldest son SirJohn, who was created a baronet by Charles II, on 15 July 1664,and died in 1683. <strong>The</strong> title descended in regular successionto Sir John <strong>Henderson</strong>, fifth baronet, who was Member ofParliament for Fifeshire, for Dysart, Kirkcaldy Burghs, and forStirling Burghs from 1780 till 1807. He died in 1817, and ashe had no son the title fell to his brother Robert, with whomit became extinct. Sir John left the estate of Fordell to hisonly child <strong>Is</strong>abella, who was married to Admiral Sir PhilipCalderwood Durham, K.C.B., but at the decease of the survivorin 1845, without issue, Fordell became the property of LadyDurham’s cousin, George Mercer, son of her father’s sister, whoassumed the additional name of <strong>Henderson</strong>. George Mercer-<strong>Henderson</strong> died unmarried in 1852. His brother, Lieutenant-General Douglas Mercer-<strong>Henderson</strong>, C.B., one of the heroesof the Peninsular War, succeeded, and the eldest son of thelatter was the late Captain George William Mercer-<strong>Henderson</strong>,whose trustees then held the estate.<strong>The</strong> estate remained in possession of <strong>Henderson</strong>s until 1954,at which time it was sold in parcels, dividing the propertyand its buildings into private living quarters. Avis’ parentspurchased the gardener’s house in 1954. <strong>The</strong> adjacent estatewas known as “Pitadro” and the gardener’s house wassubsequently named “Pitadro House” by Avis’ family.Fordell is a title describing the physical location of theproperty. It sits on a hillside as it begins to slope towardDalgety Bay. For meaning “over, above”; and dail defined as“haugh-land or water-meadow”.After our grand tour, which had taken us on a hike throughthe estate grounds for several hours, Avis invited friends tojoin us over lunch. Delicious salmon, much laughter andplenty of sharing, we departed in the early evening feelingLeft: <strong>The</strong> carriagehouse is now privatelyowned and serves as aprimary residence.Right: A dovecotwhich, in its dayhoused doves whichwere consumedin winter months.Immediately to theright of the dovecot, acorner of the dovecotcottage is visible – thisis a small cottage,currently occupied asa private residence aswell.Winter 2006 An Canach 21