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Best Roadhouse This Side of Austin - Irish American News

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20 IRISH AMERICAN NEWS June 2008Celtic Kitchen-Pure and SimpleBy Julianna LeberDuring my first trip to Ireland in1996, while looking for a student job,I managed to enjoy one <strong>of</strong> the manyevolving aspects <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Irish</strong> culture<strong>of</strong> that time: pub grub. <strong>This</strong> phrase<strong>of</strong> pub grub for many years was seenas a quick plate <strong>of</strong> sandwiches or theobligatory fish and chips. In someplaces, <strong>Irish</strong> lamb stew or shepherd’spie was on the stove for the day andserved en masse. However with therush <strong>of</strong> the Celtic Tiger, the economicand social boom <strong>of</strong> the 90’s until now,expectations in the modern <strong>Irish</strong>society ushered in the emergence<strong>of</strong> all things new and updated, if notcompletely revolutionary. That greatrevolution included the tradition <strong>of</strong><strong>Irish</strong> food.Great chefs <strong>of</strong> Europe look to newlands to find their inspiration or possiblynew places to impart their skillsand knowledge. As Ireland beganreinventing herself, some <strong>of</strong> thesechefs saw an amazing heritage <strong>of</strong> foodculture that needed updating and yetnot harsh interference. Young <strong>Irish</strong>chefs, who trained locally and thenwent abroad for further experience,returned with new inspiration forthe food they grew up with. Both theinternational and young <strong>Irish</strong> chefsknew that traditional <strong>Irish</strong> food was acornerstone to the <strong>Irish</strong> heritage andthat they were not going to mess withsuccess, just update the plate.From Dublin to Cork, Waterfordto Galway, restaurants and pubs beganto look at and become inspiredby the new culinary trends coming into the country. Restaurant proprietorsbegan searching for fresh new talentto liven up their stand-by menus. Pubowners watched the larger businessesfor ideas and inspiration and alsobegan to redesign their <strong>of</strong>ferings.The common thread throughout the<strong>Irish</strong> culinary community was tohold on to what makes traditional<strong>Irish</strong> food so unique: locally farmedbeef, pork and lamb, freshly caughtseafood, regional farmhouse cheeses,and preparing fruits and vegetablesaccording to their specific seasons.With these few guidelines alongwith time-honored preparation techniques,the new <strong>Irish</strong> chef set out andrecreated pub grub into a modernculinary experience.As the new <strong>Irish</strong> chef began t<strong>of</strong>orge a path in culinary history,the other European chefs began tonot only revisit the possibilities <strong>of</strong>Ireland, but took stock in its talent.Euro-toques is a group <strong>of</strong> Europeanchefs who believe in local talent andproduct from around Europe. The<strong>Irish</strong> group is numbered in the hundredsand the members all subscribeto the belief that food needs to exhibitthe strength <strong>of</strong> the regional sources,not only from organic farms but theenthusiastic cooking talent itself.The creative culinary process and notmassive production is their mantra.<strong>This</strong> group (<strong>of</strong> which Darina Allenfrom Ballymaloe Cookery School is amember) is paramount for <strong>Irish</strong> recognitionon the international level.Breaking it down to the basicsthough, it still about good food servedat the town local. By taking traditional,regional foods and modernizingBroiled salmon with summer vegetablesand lemon sauce in potato boxtyServes 66 salmon filets, 4 oz each1 red pepper, cut into long strips andthen cut crosswise1 each yellow squash and zucchini,cut into 1 / 4 in rounds8 oz sliced white mushrooms1 onion, sliced through root to end,and then thin slices1 lemon, cut in two4 T. butter2 - 3 T. olive oilthe dish, even slightly, it guaranteeslongevity through a casual reintroductionto the Tiger’s table.The recipe I’ve included, broiledsalmon with summer vegetables andlemon sauce in potato boxty, is adetailed, medium skilled recipe. Inthe end, it really is an elegant dish toserve dinner guests. One tip, practicethe boxty before the party. At first try,they can be a challenge when achievingproper thickness.*Julianna Leber is a graduate <strong>of</strong>Ballymaloe Cookery School, Co.Cork, Ireland and the University<strong>of</strong> Akron. E-mail: Julileber@hotmail.com1 / 4 c. dry white wine2 c. whole milk1 T. flour2 tsp. dried dillSalt and pepper3 c. mashed potatoes3 medium size potatoes, scrubbedclean2 - 3 T. flour2 eggsVegetable oilCarefully grate the potatoes (skinson, if you wish) and put the potatointo a bowl <strong>of</strong> room temp water. Setaside. Turn oven to 350F. Put salmonon cookie sheet lined with foil. Drizzlewith olive oil, salt, pepper, and squeeze1 / 2 lemon on top. Put in oven untildone and flaky, 20 minutes.Place zucchini and yellow squash ina pot <strong>of</strong> salted, simmering water untiljust tender, approx 4-5 minutes. Drain.In large skillet on med, melt 2 T. butterand add oil. Toss in onion, and stir untils<strong>of</strong>t. Add mushrooms and stir, another3-4 minutes. Add red pepper and stir.Add wine, lemon, and 2 T butter. Letsteam for a couple minutes. Sprinkle1 T. flour and stir in. Slowly add milkand stir to incorporate (may need alittle more to thin). Add squash andcarefully stir. Sprinkle with dill, saltand pepper to taste. Cover with lid andset on very low.In large bowl, combine mashedpotatoes and drained grated potato.Season with salt and pepper. Addflour and eggs, mixing thoroughly.The right consistency will enable youto ladle the batter into the pan. Toothick, add a little milk. Too thin, addflour. Heat a large skillet and add 1 T.oil. Pour by ladle and spread aroundpan, but not too thin. Carefully, testthe edges by lifting around. If itbreaks apart, thin with milk or anotheregg. Flip and let cook for another2-3 minutes or until crisp. Place onwarming plate or in oven. Continuewith the rest <strong>of</strong> the batter.To assemble: Place boxty in center<strong>of</strong> plate, spoon veggie mixture ontohalf <strong>of</strong> potato, then place salmon ontop. Flip other half over and servewith light salad. Brilliant!!

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