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“Between mountain and sea, before the imperial cities… Marrakech the sublime”tradition in Islamic countries after theProphet Muhammad recommended‘sweat baths’ for good health, and hasbeen popular ever since. Before that,the Romans and Greeks developed thecommunal bath as a social institution.‘Hammam’ literally means ‘spreaderof warmth’ and at Royal Mansour,it is something quite special. Atopa hot marble slab in a cavernoussteam room, the therapist appliestraditional Moroccan black soap,then an exfoliating Miel d’Ambrebody paste and scrub, followed bya face paste and an Amande au Laitmask. The steam gently helps theskin to absorb the oils and medicinalproperties, and breathing becomeseasier in the womb-like interior ofthe hammam. Afterwards, I’m gentlyescorted through to a cold plunge poolbefore relaxing post-treatment withsome Moroccan mint tea. The genuinewarmth and attention of the therapist,who gives me a traditional Kessamassage glove as a gift when I leave,makes me feel truly indulged.CITY OF HEALINGRoyal Mansour is one of many uber-luxehotels that have opened in Marrakechin the last couple of years, helping tomake the city a serious contender forluxury spa breaks. There’s the newlyopened Taj Palace Marrakech with itsJiva Spa, the new Delano Marrakechwith its standout Pearl Spa and Le SpaNamaskar at Oetker Collection’s PalaisNamaskar, as well as upcoming BaglioniMarrakech and the much-anticipatedMandarin Oriental in 2014.It is also refreshing to see so manyeffective and smartly packaged local spaproducts to complement the therapies.There’s ethical brand Nectarome,marocMaroc and Les Sens deIn the zen direction(left to right)Traditional huesand mood lightingcreate a sense ofcalm at Les Bainsde Marrakech; doorsopen to tranquility atPalais NamaskarMoody hues(opposite) Therelaxation room atMosaic Palais Aziza& Spa takes designcues from ArabianNightsMarrakech, who work in collaborationwith French perfumers in Grasse, butproduce their products locally. Thereis no doubt that today Marrakech hasmoved firmly ‘beyond the riad’ interms of its offerings.The following day, after getting lostin Morocco’s largest traditional Berbersouk in search of some babouches(Moroccan slippers), I head to my newhome for the night, Mosaic Palais Aziza& Spa. Peacefully located outside of themedina, three miles or so northeast ofthe city centre, I had heard that this newhotel is a lovely refuge where you canescape the hustle and bustle of the soukand kick back in smart surroundings.As with any palace, there is a certainway to arrive. A long driveway leadspast several stand-alone pavilion suites,which are tucked into two greenhectares of lush gardens planted withfruit and palm trees, and continues to72 September 2013 dotwnews.com