SHOPPING

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdSHOPPING• Arch Angel ( p157 )• Chinese Arts & Crafts ( p164 )• Coup de Foudre ( p167 )• Joyce ( p160 ) • Lulu Cheung ( p160 )• Muji ( p168 )• Shanghai Tang ( p161 )• Wattis Fine Art ( p158 )What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/hong-kong

SHOPPING OPENING HOURSSHOPPINGEveryone knows Hong Kong as a place of neon-lit retail pilgrimage. This city is positively stuffedwith glitzy shopping malls, its giant temples to massive and conspicuous consumption.Yet while any international brand worthy of its logo has at least one outlet here, Hong Kong’sreputation as a bargain hunter’s paradise is largely a thing of the past. While you can still findsome bargains, these days you can get pretty much anything that’s on sale here a few notchescheaper just over the border in China. Asia’s world city charges world-city prices for mostthings, and it has to: have you seen the rent the landlords charge?While you will find an embarrassment of top-end global brands here, local brands worthspending your money on are harder to find. The profusion of quirky, creative one-offs or uniquelocal goods you might find in cities such as London, New York, Sydney or Copenhagen is lackingin Hong Kong. The overall impression after trawling the city’s malls is of an overwhelmingfamiliarity and homogeneity. You could be anywhere in the world really.Of course, there are some honourable exceptions among a small band of local designers andsome trailblazing retailers. So where should you look?Cool independents are springing up in the narrow streets of Soho and to a lesser extent oldWan Chai, while the crowded minimalls of Causeway Bay offer some quintessentially Asianshopping experiences. A new breed of Chinese and Japanese mini department/lifestyle stores,such as Muji ( p168 ), are also excellent places for value, design interest and style across a rangeof goods.What’s worth shopping for? Clothing (off the peg or tailored), shoes, jewellery, luggage and,to a lesser degree nowadays, cameras and electronic goods are the city’s strong suits. Excellentart and antiques shops also abound.There’s more good news. Wherever you end up shopping, in general the shopping experienceis made pretty easy. Service is attentive, opening hours are long, credit cards are widely acceptedand the government will have a fight on its hands if it ever tries to revive shelved plans for asales tax, so the marked price is the price you’ll pay. Sales assistants in department or chainstores rarely have any leeway to give discounts, but you can try bargaining in owner-operatedstores and certainly in markets.OPENING HOURSIn the Central and Western Districts, dailyshop hours are generally from 10am to7.30pm, and in Causeway Bay and Wan Chaisome open later (about 11am), but many willstay open until 9.30pm or 10pm. In Tsim ShaTsui, Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei, they closearound 9pm, and in Tsim Sha Tsui East at7.30pm. Some smaller shops close for majorholidays – sometimes for up to a week – especiallyduring Chinese New Year. Many alsoclose on Sunday. We’ve included openinghours in reviews only where the hours differdramatically from these standard times.Winter sales are during the first three weeksin January; summer sales are in late June andearly July.BARGAININGBargaining is a way of life at retail outletsthroughout Hong Kong, with the exception ofdepartment stores and clothing chain shops,154where the prices marked are the prices paid.Some visitors operate on the theory that youcan get the goods for half the price originallyquoted. Many Hong Kong residents believethat if you can bargain something down thatlow, then you shouldn’t be buying from thatshop anyway. If the business is that crooked –and many are, particularly in the Tsim ShaTsui tourist ghetto – it will probably find otherways to cheat you (such as selling you electronicgoods with missing components or nointernational warranty).Price tags are supposed to be displayed on allgoods. If you can’t find a price tag, you’ve undoubtedlyentered one of those business establishmentswith ‘flexible’ – ie rip-off – prices.DUTY FREEThe only imported goods on which there isduty in Hong Kong are tobacco, perfumes, cosmetics,cars and certain petroleum products.In general, almost anything – from cameras

and electronics to clothing and jewellery –will be cheaper when you buy it outside dutyfreeshops.WARRANTIES & GUARANTEESEvery guarantee should carry a complete descriptionof the item (including the modeland serial numbers), as well as the date ofpurchase, the name and address of the shopit was purchased from, and the shop’s officialname chop (stamp).Many imported items come with a warrantyregistration with the words ‘Guaranteeonly valid in Hong Kong’. If it’s a well-knownbrand, you can often return this card to theimporter in Hong Kong to get a warranty cardfor your home country.A common practice is to sell grey-marketequipment (ie imported by somebody otherthan the official local agent). Such equipmentmay have no guarantee at all, or the guaranteemay be valid only in the country ofmanufacture (which will probably be eitherChina or Japan).REFUNDS & EXCHANGESMost shops are loath to give refunds, but theycan usually be persuaded to exchange purchasesthat haven’t been soiled or tamperedwith. Make sure you get a detailed receipt thatenumerates the goods, as well as the amountand payment method.There is really no reason to put a depositon anything unless it is an article of clothingbeing made for you or you’ve ordered a newpair of glasses. Some shops might ask for adeposit if you’re ordering an unusual itemthat’s not normally stocked, but this isn’t acommon practice.SHIPPING GOODSSome shops will package and post goods foryou, especially large items. It’s a good idea tofind out whether you will have to clear thegoods at the country of destination. Makesure you keep all the receipts.Smaller items can be shipped from the postoffice. United Parcel Service (UPS; %2735 3535) alsooffers services from Hong Kong to some 40countries worldwide. It ships by air and acceptsparcels weighing up to 70kg. DHL (%24003388) is another option.WHAT TO BUYAntiquesHong Kong has a rich and colourful array ofAsian, especially Chinese, antiques on offer,but serious buyers will restrict themselves tothe reputable antique shops and auction housesonly; Hong Kong imports many forgeriesand expert reproductions from China andSoutheast Asia. Just remember that most of thereally good pieces are sold through the auctionhouses such as Christie’s (p158 ), especially at itsauctions in spring and autumn.Most of Hong Kong Island’s antique shopsare bunched along Wyndham St and HollywoodRd in Central and Sheung Wan. Theshops at the western end of Hollywood Rdtend to be cheaper and carry more dubious‘antiques’ – tread carefully through thisminefield of reproductions, books, magazines,Chinese propaganda posters, badges from theCultural Revolution and so on.For Chinese handicrafts and other goods(hand-carved wooden pieces, ceramics, paintings,cloisonné, silk garments), the main placesto go are the large China-run emporiumsSHOPPING STRIPSThe main shopping areas are Central ( p157 ) and Causeway Bay ( p166 ) on Hong Kong Island and Tsim Sha Tsui ( p167 )in Kowloon. Nathan Rd in Tsim Sha Tsui is the main tourist strip. Central is good for clothing (from internationalhigh-end brands to the hautest of haute couture), as well as books, cameras and antiques. Causeway Bay has a lot ofdepartment stores and low-end clothing outlets, while old Wan Chai ( p163 ) has a sprinkling of interesting clothingand interiors places.Either side of the Kowloon peninsula you’ll also find ever-increasing retail space, including at the Elements mall in WestKowloon and at Megabox (Map pp100–1 ; Wang Chui Rd, Kowloon) to the east near Kai Tak airport in Kowloon Bay.Warehouse sales and factory extras can be found along Granville Rd ( p168 ) in Tsim Sha Tsui, in Causeway Bay andon Ap Lei Chau ( p94 ), the island opposite Aberdeen. Most of these deal in ready-to-wear garments, but there are afew that also sell carpets, shoes, leather goods, jewellery and imitation antiques. Often prices aren’t that much lessthan in retail shops, and it’s important to check purchases carefully, as refunds are rarely given, and many articles arefactory seconds and imperfect.lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING WARRANTIES & GUARANTEES155

DEFENSIVE SHOPPING, BLOW BY BLOWHong Kong is not a nest of thieves just waiting to rip you off, but pitfalls can strike the uninitiated.Whatever you are in the market for, always check prices in a few shops before buying. The most common way forshopkeepers in Hong Kong to cheat tourists is to simply overcharge. In the tourist shopping district of Tsim Sha Tsui,you’ll rarely find price tags on anything. Checking prices in several shops therefore becomes essential. But Hong Kongmerchants weren’t born yesterday; they know tourists comparison-shop. So staff will often quote a reasonable or evenlow price on a big-ticket item, only to get the money back by overcharging on accessories.Spotting overcharging is the easy part, though. Sneakier (but rarer) tricks involve merchants removing vital componentsthat should have been included for free (and demanding more money when you return to the shop to get them).Another tactic is to replace some of the good components with cheap or imitation ones.Watch out for counterfeit-brand goods. Fake labels on clothes are the most obvious example, but there are fakeRolex watches, fake Gucci leather bags, even fake electronic goods. Pirated CDs and DVDs are a positive steal (in moreways than one) but are of poor quality and rapidly deteriorate.Hong Kong’s customs agents have cracked down on the fake cameras and electronic goods, and the problem hasbeen pretty much solved. However, counterfeit brand-name watches remain very common and are constantly beingflogged by the irritating touts patrolling Nathan Rd. If you discover that you’ve been sold a fake brand-name watch bya shopkeeper when you thought you were buying the genuine article, call the police (%2527 7177).If you have any trouble with a dodgy merchant, call the HKTB’s Quality Tourism Services (QTS; %2806 2823;www.qtshk.com) if the shop is a tourist-board member; the HKTB logo will be displayed on the front door or in someother prominent place. Otherwise, contact the Hong Kong Consumer Council (%2929 2222; www.consumer.org.hk) for advice Monday to Friday between 9am and 5.45pm.lonelyplanet.combusiness. If you’re just looking for a casualbag or daypack, check out Li Yuen St East andLi Yuen St West ( p77 ) in Central or StanleyMarket ( p95 ).Photographic EquipmentNever buy a camera without a price tag. Thiswill basically preclude most of the shops inTsim Sha Tsui. One of the best spots in HongKong for buying photographic equipment isStanley St in Central, where competition iskeen. Everything carries price tags, thoughsome low-level bargaining may be possible.Tsim Sha Tsui has a couple of shops on KimberleyRd dealing in used cameras and thereare plenty of photo shops on Sai Yeung ChoiSt in Mong Kok.WatchesShops selling watches are ubiquitous in HongKong and you can find everything from aRolex to Russian army timepieces and divingwatches. Avoid the shops without price tags.The big department stores and City Chain( p163 ) are fine, but compare prices.HONG KONG ISLANDCentral and Causeway Bay are the main shoppingdistricts on Hong Kong Island, with WanChai lagging pretty far behind.CENTRAL, LAN KWAI FONG &SOHOCentral has a mix of midrange to top-endshopping centres and street-front retail; it’spopular with locals and tourists alike. Thisis a good place to look for cameras, books,antiques and designer threads. The Landmarkshopping mall in Central has designer boutiques,shops selling crystal and so on. TheIFC Mall is for high fashion.ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUESMap p78Antiques%2851 6848; 53-55 Hollywood Rd; g26Though the specialities are antique andancient porcelain and tombware, ArchAngel packs a lot more into its threefloors: it has everything from mah-jongsets and terracotta horses to palatial furniture.It also operates an art gallery, ArchAngel Fine Art (Map p78 ; %2854 4255; 38 Peel St)across the road, which deals in paintingsby Vietnamese artists.HOBBS & BISHOPS FINE ARTMap p78Antiques%2537 9838; 28 Hollywood Rd; h10am-5.30pmMon-Sat; g26This shop smelling of beeswax specialisesin lacquered Chinese wooden furniturefrom the 19th and early 20th centuries.157SHOPPING HONG KNONG ISLAND

lonelyplanet.comTO MARKET, TO MARKET…For budget shopping, there’s no better place to start than at one of Hong Kong’s busy covered markets or streetmarkets.The biggest one in the territory is the Temple Street night market (p109 ) in Yau Ma Tei, which basically runs parallelto (and west of ) Nathan Rd from Jordan Rd in the south to Man Ming Lane in the north and is divided by Tin Hau Temple.It is the place to go for cheap clothes, watches, pirated CDs and DVDs, fake labels, footwear, cookware and everyday items,as well as dai pai dong (daai pàai dawng; open-air street stall) food. The best time to visit is between 7pm and 10pm.The Tung Choi St market (Map p111 ; hnoon-11.30pm), two blocks east of Nathan Rd and the Mong Kok MTRstation, mainly sells cheap clothing. It is sometimes called Ladies’ Market to distinguish it from Men’s St (the TempleStreet night market) because the stalls in the latter once sold only menswear. Though there are still a lot of items on salefor women on Tung Choi St, vendors don’t discriminate and anyone’s money will do nowadays. Vendors start setting uptheir stalls as early as noon, but it’s best to get here between 1pm and 6pm when there’s much more on offer.There are other bustling markets on Apliu St (Map pp100–1 ; hnoon-9pm) in Sham Shui Po, one block west ofSham Shui Po MTR station, and in the streets running off Tai Po’s Four Lane Sq (Map p124 ) in the New Territories.If you’re looking strictly for clothing, try Jardine’s Bazaar (Map p85 ) in Causeway Bay. A bit more upmarket and atourist attraction in its own right is Stanley Market ( p95 ), in the village of that name on the south coast of Hong KongIsland. Another market worth visiting is Western Market ( p82 ) near the Macau ferry terminal in Sheung Wan.SHOPPING HONG KNONG ISLANDIts taste leans towards the sleek andhandsome rather than gilded and showypieces.HONEYCHURCH ANTIQUESMap p78Antiques%2543 2433; 29 Hollywood Rd; hclosed Sun;g26This fine shop, run by an American couplefor more than four decades, specialises inantique Chinese furniture, jewellery andantique English silver. There’s a wide rangeof stock, with items from the early Chinesedynasties right up to the 20th century.TAI SING FINE ANTIQUESMap p78Antiques% 2525 9365; 12 Wyndham St; MTR CentralTai Sing has been selling quality Chineseantiques for more than half a century, witha special focus on porcelain. Two of theshop’s six floors are now devoted to Europeanfurniture, including a dandy assemblageof art deco pieces.TERESA COLEMAN FINE ARTSMap p78Antiques%2526 2450; Ground fl, 79 Wyndham St; g26This is the finest shop in Hong Kong forpurchasing antique Chinese textiles, includingrare chi fu, the formal court robesof valuable silk worn by the Chinese emperor,princes and imperial ministers. Theshop also deals in Chinese export paintingsfrom the 18th and 19th centuries andantique fans.158WATTIS FINE ART Map p78Antiques%2524 5302; www.wattis.com.hk; 2nd fl,20 Hollywood Rd; hclosed Mon; g26No place in Hong Kong has a better collectionof antique maps for sale than WattisFine Art. The selection of old photographsof Hong Kong and Macau is also veryimpressive. You enter the shop from OldBailey St.CHINE GALLERY Map p78 Antiques, Carpets%2543 0023; www.chinegallery.com; 42A HollywoodRd; g26The carefully restored furniture – the lacqueredcabinets are fab – at this shop comefrom all over China, and hand-knotted rugsare sourced from remote regions such asXinjiang, Ningxia, Gansu, Inner Mongolia andTibet. It sells statues and collectibles, too.AMOURS ANTIQUESMap p78Antiques, Clothing & Accessories%2803 7877; 45 Staunton St; h12.30-9.30pmSun- Thu, 12.30-10.30pm Fri & Sat; g26This wonderful shop stocks antique (well,old) rhinestone jewellery, frocks, and adarling clutch of beaded and tapestry bagsdating from early last century. There arealso vases, candle holders and Buddhafigurines. Good gift-shopping territory.CHRISTIE’S Map p67Auction House%2521 5396; Room 2203-2208, 22nd fl, AlexandraHouse, 16-20 Chater Rd; MTR Central (exit J2)Christie’s has regular sales in ceramics,jade, jewellery, stamps, snuff bottles, art,

traditional and contemporary Chinesepaintings and calligraphy. It holds its spring(May) and autumn (November) pre-auctionpreviews in the Hong Kong Convention &Exhibition Centre ( p73 ) in Wan Chai.JOINT PUBLISHING Map p78Books%2868 6844; 9 Queen Victoria St; MTR Central(exit A)This primarily Chinese-language bookshophas a good range of English-languagebooks about China, and CDs and DVDs forstudying the language. It’s also strong onlocal maps and maps of China. Most Englishlanguagetitles are on the mezzanine floor.There are 15 other JP outlets, many in MTRstations, including a branch in Wan Chai (Mapp74 ; %2838 2081; 158 Hennessy Rd).TAI YIP ART BOOK CENTRE Map p78 Books%2524 5963; Room 101-102, 1st fl, Capitol Plaza,2-10 Lyndhurst Tce; MTR Central (exit C)Tai Yip has a terrific selection of booksabout anything that is Chinese and artsy:calligraphy, jade, bronze, costumes, architecture,symbolism. This is a good placeto look deeper if you’re planning on buyingart in Hong Kong. There are outlets inseveral of Hong Kong’s museums, includingthe Hong Kong Museum of Art ( p98 ).GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONSOFFICE Map p67Books, Maps%2537 1910; Room 402, 4th fl, Murray Bldg, 22Garden Rd; hclosed Sun; g3B, 12 or 40MAll Hong Kong government publications,including hiking maps, are available here.BLANC DE CHINEMap p67Clothing & Accessories%2524 7875; Room 201 & 203A, 2nd fl, PedderBldg, 12 Pedder St; MTR Central (exit D1)This sumptuous store specialises in traditionalChinese men’s jackets, off the rackor made to measure. There’s also a lovelyselection of silk dresses for women. Thesatin bed linens are exquisite (as are the oldship’s cabinets in which they are displayed).H&M Map p78Clothing & Accessories%2110 9546; 68 Queen’s Rd Central; MTR Central(exit D2)This Swedish chain has finally brought itsinexpensive, of-the-moment clothing toHong Kong. The appeal of H&M is discountprices on lines that track high-endlonelyplanet.comA READER’S DIGESTFor antiquarian or Chinese-language booksellers see the main listings sections. There’s an excellent choice in the cityfor English language books; here’s a roundup.Bloomsbury Books (Map p67 ; %2526 5387; Shop 102, 1/F Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Rd; hclosed Sun; MTRCentral, exit J3) Strong business, legal, literary and children’s sections.Bookazine (Map p67 ; %2522 1785; Shop 309-313A, 3rd fl, Prince’s Bldg, 10 Chater Rd; MTR Central, exit G)Dependable range of books, magazines and stationery. Also a branch in Admiralty (Map p72 ; %2866 7522; Shop C,Upper Ground fl, Far East Finance Centre, 16 Harcourt Rd; MTR Admiralty, exit B).Dymocks (Map p67 ; %2117 0360; Shop 2007-2011, 2nd fl, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St; MTR Central, exit A) Mainstreamselection of books and magazines in several branches.Hong Kong Book Centre (Map p67 ; %2522 7064; www.swindonbooks.com; Basement, On Lok Yuen Bldg, 25 DesVoeux Rd Central; MTR Central, exit B) Basement shop with a vast selection of books and magazines, particularlybusiness titles.Kelly & Walsh (Map p72 ; %2522 5743; Shop 236, 2nd fl, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty; MTR Admiralty,exit C1) A good selection of art, design and culinary books plus a handy kids’ reading lounge. There’s also a Centralbranch (Map p67 ; %2810 5128; Shop 305, 3rd fl, Exchange Square Tower I; MTR Central, exit A).Page One (Map pp100–1 ; %2778 2808; Shop LG1 30, Lower Ground fl, Festival Walk, 80-88 Tat Chee Ave, KowloonTong; MTR Kowloon Tong, exit C2) Hong Kong’s best selection of art and design magazines and books; it’s also strongon photography, literature, film and children’s books. There’s also a smaller branch in Tsim Sha Tsui (Map p104 ;%2730 6080; Shop 3202, 3rd fl, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 25-27 Canton Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui, exit A1).Swindon Books (Map p104 ; %2366 8001; 13-15 Lock Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui, exit C1) An excellent range andknowledgeable staff. Strong on local books and history in particular.SHOPPING HONG KONG ISLAND159

lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING HONG KONG ISLANDfashion trends closely, partly with thehelp of fashion collaborations with thelikes of Madonna, Stella McCartney andKylie Minogue.JOYCE Map p67Clothing & Accessories%2810 1120; Ground fl, New World Tower, 16Queen’s Rd Central; MTR Central (exit D1)This multidesigner store is a good choiceif you’re short of time rather than money:Issey Miyake, Alexander McQueen, MarcJacobs, Comme des Garçons, Chloé, Pucci,Yohji Yamamoto and several Hong Kongfashion names are just some of the designerswhose wearable wares are on display.There’s another branch of Joyce in Admiralty(Map p72 ; %2523 5944; Shop 334, 3rd fl, Pacific Place,88 Queensway). For the same duds at half theprice, visit Joyce Warehouse (%2814 8313; 21stfl, Horizon Plaza Arcade, 2 Lee Wing St, Ap Lei Chau;hclosed Mon), opposite the Aberdeenwaterfront.JILIAN, LINGERIE ON WYNDHAMMap p78Clothing & Accessories%2826 9295; Ground fl, 31 Wyndham St; MTRCentral ( exit D2)Swimwear and a vast range of French andItalian lingerie, from gossamer delicatessmall enough to swallow with a glass ofwater to rather outré corsetry with stringsand stays and such. There’s even a smallrange of men’s designer smalls if you justcan’t put up with your man’s industrialsizedunderpants any longer. Labels stockedinclude Eres, Argentovivo, ID Sarrieri,Cadolle, Aubade, Bacirubati, Pin-up Stars,Jonquil, Revanche de la Femme, Rosa Chaand Grigioperla.LINVA TAILOR Map p78 Clothing & Accessories%2544 2456; Ground fl, 38 Cochrane St; g26This is the place to come to have yourvery own cheongsam (tight-fitting Chinesedress) tailored. Bring your own silk orchoose from Miss Tong’s selection. The proprietorsare also happy to mail completeditems, if you’re pushed for time.LULU CHEUNG Map p67 Clothing & Accessories%2537 7515; Shop B63, Basement, LandmarkBldg, 1 Pedder St; MTR Central (exit G)Local designer Lulu makes sophisticated, understatedwomen’s casual wear and elegantevening gowns using natural fabrics – suchas wool, cotton, silk and linen – in mutedtones. Cheung often works with layers andtextures using mesh or floral embroidery.MIU MIU Map p67Clothing & Accessories%2523 7833; Shop B24, Basement, LandmarkBldg, 1 Pedder St; MTR CentralClean lines, the best fabrics and a lushcolour palette define the high-end fashionfrom this Prada spin-off. Great (and pricey)shoes and handbags, too. A range ofsmaller accessories makes it a good placeto hunt for presents.THE WARDROBE OF SUZIE WONGThere’s nothing quite like a cheongsam, the close-fitting sheath that is as Chinese as a bowl of won ton noodle soup. Itlifts where it should and never pulls where it shouldn’t. And those thigh-high side slits – well, they’re enough to giveany man apoplexy. It’s sensuous but never lewd; it reveals without showing too much.Reach into any Hong Kong Chinese woman’s closet and you’re bound to find at least one cheongsam (qípáo inMandarin), the closest thing Hong Kong has to national dress. It’s there for formal occasions like Chinese New Yeargatherings, work (restaurant receptionists and nightclub hostesses wear them), school (cotton cheongsams are still theuniform at several colleges and secondary schools) or for the ‘big day’. Modern Hong Kong brides may take their vowsin white, but when they’re slipping off for the honeymoon, they put on a red cheongsam.It’s difficult to imagine that this bedazzling dress started life as a man’s garment. During the Qing dynasty, theManchus ordered Han Chinese to emulate their way of dress – elite men wore a loose ‘long robe’ (chèung-pò) with a‘riding jacket’ (máa-kwáa) while women wore trousers under a long garment. By the 1920s, modern women in Shanghaihad taken to wearing the androgynous changpao, which released them from layers of confining clothing. From thisoutfit evolved the cheongsam.The ‘bourgeois’ cheongsam dropped out of favour in China when the Communists came to power in 1949 and wasbanned outright during the Cultural Revolution, but the 1950s and ‘60s were the outfit’s heyday. This was the era ofSuzie Wong (the cheongsam is sometimes called a ‘Suzie Wong dress’) and, although hemlines rose and dropped,collars stiffened and more darts were added to give it a tighter fit, the cheongsam has remained essentially the same:elegant, sexy and very Chinese.160

SHANGHAI TANGMap p67Clothing & Accessories%2525 7333; Basement & Ground fl, Pedder Bldg,12 Pedder St; MTR Central (exit D1)Updated versions of traditional Chinesegarments including cheongsams and collarlessjackets with a modern cut and edgefeaturing lots of lime and orange. It alsostocks accessories and Chinese-styled giftitems with a modern twist. Custom tailoringis available.VINTAGE HK Map p67 Clothing & Accessories%2545 9932; 57-59 Hollywood Rd, Central;h10am-6pm; MTR Central (exit D2)Definitely worth a look for its small, wellselectedrange of vintage wear, for whichyou need not do much rummaging.HARVEY NICHOLSMap p67Department Store%3695 3389; www.harveynichols.com; LandmarkBldg, 1 Pedder St; MTR Central (exit G)Britain’s Harvey Nichols has brought itsdiverse, profuse and on-the-pulse rangeof couture and smart street fashions toHong Kong, occupying four floors at theLandmark.LANE CRAWFORD Map p67 Department Store%2118 3388; Level 3, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St;MTR Central (exit A)This branch of Hong Kong’s original Westernstyledepartment store, the territory’sanswer to Harrods in London, is the flagshipnow that the store located on Queen’sRd Central has closed. There are alsobranches in Admiralty (Map p72 ; %2118 3668; 1st& 2nd fls, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway), Causeway Bay(Map p85 ; %2118 3638; Ground & 1st fls, Times Sq, 1Matheson St) and Tsim Sha Tsui (Map p104 ; %21183428; Ground & 1st fls, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City,Salisbury Rd).SWANK Map p67Department Store%2868 3804 (ladies), 2810 0769; Shop 202, 2ndfl, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Rd; MTR Central(exit H)A long-standing fashion powerhouse, theSwank stocks a good range of established,mainly European labels, including Kenzo,Sonia Rykiel, Christian Lacroix and Givenchy,plus a smattering of up-and-coming talentfrom Hong Kong and the world’s fashioncentres.OCEAN OPTICAL Map p67Eyewear%2868 5670; Shop 5, Ground fl, Cascade, StandardChartered Bank Bldg, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd Central;MTR Central (exit G)Both frames and lenses can be cheaper(in some case, much cheaper) in HongKong than what you would pay at home,and we do not know of a better opticianin Hong Kong than Ocean Optical. There’sa branch in Tsim Sha Tsui (Map p104 ; %27350611; Shop 326, 3rd fl, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-9Canton Rd).FOOK MING TONG TEA SHOPMap p67Food & Drink% 2295 0368; Shop 3006, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St;MTR Central (exit A)Tea-making accoutrements and carefullychosen teas of various ages and grades,from gunpowder to Nanyan Ti Guan YinCrown Grade – costing anything from $10to $9000 per 100g.OLYMPIA GRAECO-EGYPTIANCOFFEE Map p78Food & Drink%2522 4653; Ground fl, 24 Old Bailey St;hclosed Sun; g26This place has been around since, well,anyone can remember, and it still grindsthe best beans in town.THREE SIXTY Map p67Food & Drink%2111 4480; 3rd & 4th fls, Landmark Bldg,1 Pedder St; MTR Central (exit G)A fabulous addition to Hong Kong’s foodscene, Three Sixty sells a great range oforganic and natural foods, as well as topnotchimports of hard-to-find ingredientsfrom all over the world. The prices, ofcourse, are high. There’s also a terrific foodcourt with cuisine from all over the worldon the upper floor.LIULIGONGFANG Map p67 Gifts & Souvenirs%2973 0820; Shop 20-22, Ground fl, Central Bldg,1-3 Pedder St; MTR CentralExquisite coloured-glass objects, bothpractical (vases, candle holders, jewellery)and ornamental (figurines, crystal Buddhas,breathtaking sculptures) from renownedTaiwanese glass sculptor Loretta YangHui-Shan are on display and for sale here.There’s another branch in Admiralty (Mapp72 ; %2918 9001; Shop 320, 3rd fl, Pacific Place, 88Queensway).lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING HONG KONG ISLAND161

lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING HONG KONG ISLAND162MOUNTAIN FOLKCRAFTMap p78Gifts & Souvenirs%2523 2817; 12 Wo On Lane; hclosed Sun; MTRCentralThis is one of the nicest shops in the cityfor folk craft. It’s piled with bolts of batikand sarongs, clothing, wood carvings,lacquerware and papercuts made by ethnicminorities in China and other Asian countries.The shop attendants are friendly, andprices, while not cheap, are not outrageouseither.PICTURE THIS Map p67Gifts & Souvenirs%2525 2820; Shop 212, Prince’s Bldg, 10 ChaterRd, Central; MTR Central (exit H)The vintage Hong Kong posters, photographs,reproductions and antique mapson sale here make great souvenirs or gifts,but they are on the pricey side.WAH TUNG CHINA ARTSMap p67Gifts & Souvenirs%2543 2823; 59 Hollywood Rd; hclosed Sun;g26Wah Tung, the world’s largest supplier ofhand-decorated ceramics, has some 18,000items on display at this showroom, just eastof Pacific Place. You’ll find everything frombrightly painted vases and ginger jars toreproduction Tang-dynasty figurines.KING FOOK Map p78Jewellery%2822 8573; Ground fl, King Fook Bldg, 30-32 DesVoeux Rd Central; MTR Central (exit C)King Fook, with a grandiose gilded entrance,stocks a large range of watches,top-end fountain pens and baubles. There’sanother branch in Tsim Sha Tsui (Map p104 ;%2313 2788; Shop G1, Miramar Shopping Centre, 118-130 Nathan Rd).ROCK CANDY Map p78Jewellery%2549 1018; 1 Elgin St, Soho; g26Made from black glass and with pin-pricklights illuminating display cases, this gothglamjewellery shop (and its ubertrendygewgaws) has to be seen to be believed.TSE SUI LUEN Map p78Jewellery%2921 8800; Ground fl, Commercial House, 35Queen’s Rd Central; MTR Central (exit D2)This is the most sparkling of Tse Sui Luen’sdozen or so outlets and is worth visiting forits sheer opulence or garishness – howeveryou see it. There’s another branch in Tsim ShaTsui (Map p104 ; %2926 3210; Shop A & B, Ground fl,190 Nathan Rd).HMV Map p67Music%2739 0268; 1st fl, Central Bldg, 1-3 Pedder St;MTR Central (exit D1)This Aladdin’s cave of music not only hasHong Kong’s largest choice of CDs, DVDsand cassettes but also a great range ofmusic-related literature. There are branchesin Causeway Bay (Map p85 ; %2504 3669; 1st fl, StyleHouse, Park Lane Hotel, cnr Gloucester Rd & Great GeorgeSt) and Tsim Sha Tsui (Map p104 ; %2302 0122; 2nd fl,HK Pacific Centre, 28 Hankow Rd).EVERBEST PHOTO SUPPLIESMap p78Photographic Equipment% 2522 1985; 28B Stanley St; MTR Central, exit D2This extremely reliable shop is where manyof Hong Kong’s professional photographersbuy their equipment. Same day or next-dayChina visas are an odd but useful sidelinehere.PHOTO SCIENTIFICMap p78Photographic Equipment%2525 0550; 6 Stanley St; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat;MTR Central (exit D2)This is the favourite of Hong Kong’s prophotographers. You’ll almost certainly findequipment elsewhere for less, but PhotoScientific has a rock-solid reputation withlabelled prices, no bargaining, no arguingand no cheating.PEDDER RED Map p78Shoes, Accessories%2118 3712; 64-66 Wellington St, Central;h10am-6.30pm; MTR Central (exit D1)This is the flagship for a small local chaincalled On Pedder that specialises in its ownand other (famous brand) shoes and accessoriesfor women. Perhaps the best placefor shoes in Hong Kong.IFC MALL Map p67Shopping Mall%2295 3308; www.ifc.com.hk; 8 Finance St; MTRHong Kong, exit FAs if Central didn’t have nearly enoughluxury retail space already, this swankyshopping centre was built. It boasts 200high-fashion boutiques linking the Oneand Two IFC towers and the Four SeasonsHotel. Outlets include Patrick Cox, Geiger,Longchamp, Kenzo, Vivienne Tam, Zegna…

we could go on. The Hong Kong AirportExpress Station is downstairs.LANDMARK Map p67Shopping Mall%2525 4142; www.centralhk.com; 1 Pedder St;MTR Central, exit GThe most central of all shopping centres,the Landmark has high fashion and goodeating in a pleasant, open space. It hasbecome a home almost exclusively tothe very high-end fashion brands andboutiques (Gucci, Louis Vuitton, TODs etc)and a handful of worthwhile refreshmentstops.PRINCE’S BUILDING Map p67 Shopping Mall%2504 0704; www.centralhk.com; 10 Chater Rd;MTR Central, exit KYou may find the layout of Prince’s Buildingdisorienting, but it’s worth a look forits speciality fashion, toy and kitchenwareshops. The selection is rather eclectic –from high-end boutiques such as Chaneland Cartier on the ground floor to booksellers,Mothercare, jewellers, stationers andluggage shops on the levels above. It’s anespecially good place to bring the kids, asalmost the entire 3rd floor is given over tochildren’s shops.CITY CHAIN Map p78Watches%2259 9020; Ground fl, Man Yee Bldg, 67 Queen’sRd Central; MTR Central (exit D2)City Chain stocks every type of wristwatchimaginable – from the stylish and dressyto the funky and glitzy. It has some twodozenoutlets in Hong Kong, including onein Admiralty (Map p72 ; %2845 9403; Shop 112, 1st fl,Pacific Place, 88 Queensway).ADMIRALTY & WAN CHAIAdmiralty, bordering Wan Chai, has one ofHong Kong Island’s glitziest shopping malls,Pacific Place, just opposite Admiralty station,to which it is connected by elevated and undergroundwalkways.Wan Chai is a good spot for medium andlow-priced clothing, sporting goods and footwear,but the area caters mainly for locals. Thedistrict has little glamour, but it is well worthhunting for bargains.COSMOS BOOKS Map p74Books%2866 1677; Basement & 1st fl, 30 Johnston Rd,Wan Chai; g6, 6A or 6XThis chain-store branch has a good selectionof China-related books in the basement.Upstairs are English-language books(nonfiction is strong) plus one of HongKong’s best stationery departments. Enterthe Wan Chai store from Lun Fat St andthe Tsimsy branch from Granville Rd.SONJIA Map p72Clothing, Homewares%2529 6223; 2 Sun St, Wan Chai; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; MTR Admiralty (exit F)Sumptuous, romantic womenswear creationsfrom this Anglo-Korean Hong Kongdesigner in silk, velvet and fine cotton,much of it hand-finished with embroidery,plus vintage jewellery and a few internationallabels, such as Lagerfeld. The adjoiningstore stocks a select bunch of eleganthomewares to suit every taste.45R JEANS Map p72Clothing & Accessories%2175 5545; 7 Star Street; MTR Admiralty (exit F)Can jeans be desirable enough to be worththousands of Hong Kong dollars? Onlyyou can decide, but there’s no doubt thefinishing flourishes and high-end fabric anddyeing give them that ‘one-off’ look. Theyfit well, too.KENT & CURWENMap p72Clothing & Accessories%2840 0023; Shop 372, 3rd fl, Pacific Place, 88Queensway, Admiralty; MTR Admiralty, exit FDistinguished suits, dress shirts, ties, cufflinksand casual tops for the gentlemanwho’d rather look to the manor born thanarriviste broker.PACIFIC CUSTOM TAILORSMap p72Clothing & Accessories%2845 5377; Shop 110, 1st fl, Pacific Place, 88Queensway, Admiralty; MTR Admiralty (exit C1)This is one of our favourite bespoke tailorsin Hong Kong. It’ll make or copy anything;turnaround on most items is two or threedays, including two fittings. Count onabout $4000 for a suit.VIVIENNE TAM Map p72 Clothing & Accessories%2918 0238; www.viviennetam.com; Shop 209,2nd fl, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty; MTRAdmiralty (exit F)This enduring brand from New York–baseddesigner Tam, who was trained in HongKong, sells eminently wearable, femininelonelyplanet.comSHOPPING HONG KONG ISLAND163

lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING HONG KONG ISLAND164but also streetwise women’s foundationpieces, light gossamer dresses and slinkytops, plus a range of accessories.WAN CHAI COMPUTER CENTREMap p74Computers1st fl, Southorn Centre, 130-138 Hennessy Rd, WanChai; hclosed Sun; MTR Wan Chai (exit B2)This place, on the northern edge of SouthornPlayground, is a cut above Hong Kong’scomputer emporiums. The prices on prettymuch everything digital are generallykeener than the local chain stores.CHINESE ARTS & CRAFTSMap p72Department Store%2523 3933; Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway,Admiralty; MTR Admiralty (exit F)Mainland-owned CAC is probably the bestplace in Hong Kong to buy quality bric-abracand other Chinese trinkets; it’s positivelyan Aladdin’s cave of souvenirs. OnHong Kong Island there are also branchesin Central (Map p78 ; %2901 0338; Ground fl, AsiaStandard Tower, 59 Queen’s Rd Central) and Tsim ShaTsui (Map p104 ; %2735 4061; 1st fl, Star House, 3Salisbury Rd), and there’s also a huge one inWan Chai (Map p74 ; %2827 6667; Lower Block, ChinaResources Bldg, 26 Harbour Rd).DESIGN GALLERY Map p74 Gifts & Souvenirs%2584 4146; Level 1, Hong Kong Convention &Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai; g18Supported by the Hong Kong Trade DevelopmentCouncil, this shop showcases localdesign in the form of jewellery, toys, ornamentsand gadgets. It’s a chaotic but oftenrewarding gaggle of goodies. A great placeto find present-buying inspiration. There’salso a branch in the check-in hall at theairport (%2261 2524; TEO7, Level 7).HONG KONG RECORDSMap p72Music%2845 7088; Shop 252, 2nd fl, Pacific Place, 88Queensway, Admiralty; MTR Admiralty, exit FThis local outfit has a good selection ofCantonese and international sounds, includingtraditional Chinese, jazz, classicaland contemporary music. There’s also agood range of DVDs and VCDs of bothChinese films and Western movies withChinese subtitles. There’s also a Kowloon Tongbranch (Map pp100–1 ; %2265 8299; Shop L1-02, Level1, Festival Walk, 80-88 Tat Chee Ave).SUNMARK CAMPING EQUIPMENTMap p74Outdoor Gear%2893 8553; 1st fl, 121 Wan Chai Rd, Wan Chai;hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-7.30pm Sun; g6,6A or 6XHead here for hiking and camping gearand waterproof clothing of all sorts. There’salso a small selection of second-hand gear.Enter from Bullock Lane.PACIFIC PLACE Map p72Shopping Mall%2844 8988; www.pacificplace.com.hk; 88Queensway, Admiralty; MTR Admiralty (exit F)One of the city’s best shopping malls, PacificPlace has, if anything, gone further upmarketrecently. There are a couple of hundredoutlets, dominated by higher-end men’s andwomen’s fashion (from the likes of Burberry,Chanel, Chloé, Loewe, Marc Jacobs andVersace) and accessories (Bottega Veneta,Coach, Fendi, Gucci etc). There’s also a LaneCrawford department store.BUNN’S DIVERS Map p74 Sporting Goods%3422 3322; Mezzanine, Chuen Fung House, 188-192 Johnston Rd, Wan Chai; MTR Wan Chai (exit A3)Masks, snorkels, fins, regulators, tanks –Hong Kong’s longest-established diveshop also runs dive tours and trainingcourses.KUNG FU SUPPLIESMap p74Sporting Goods%2891 1912; Room 6A, 6th fl, Chuen Fung House,188- 192 Johnston Rd, Wan Chai; g6, 6A or 6XIf you need to stock up on martial-arts accessoriesor just want to thumb through adecent collection of books, this is the placeto go. The staff here is very helpful.SHEUNG WANFor antiques and curios, head for HollywoodRd, which starts in Central and ends up inSheung Wan, where there is a long string ofshops selling Asian items. Some of the reallygood spots have genuine finds, but beware ofwhat you buy. Western Market ( p82 ) is a goodspot for buying fabrics and curios. There arealso a couple of big department stores in thearea.KARIN WEBER GALLERYMap p80Antiques, Fine Art%2544 5004; www.karinwebergallery.com; 20Aberdeen St; g26

Karin Weber has an enjoyable mix of Chinesecountry antiques and contemporaryAsian artworks. She also gives short lectureson antiques and the scene in Hong Kong,and is able to arrange antique-buying tripsto Guangdong for serious buyers.INDOSIAM Map p80Books, Antiques%2854 2853; 1st fl, 89 Hollywood Rd;h2-7pm; g26Hong Kong’s first (and only) truly antiquarianbookshop deals in rare titles relatingto Asian countries. It’s particularly strongon Thailand, China and the former Frenchcolonies (ie Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos).RANEE K Map p80Clothing%2108 4068; 16 Gough St, Central;h10am-6.30pm; MTR Sheung Wan (exit A2)Young local designer Ranee K is a risingstar for her combinations of dramatic printsand textures, as well as for her deft adoptionof cuts and styles from both East andWest in her evening and ready-to-wearlines.WING ON Map p80Department Store%2852 1888; 211 Des Voeux Rd Central; MTRSheung Wan, exit E3‘Forever Peaceful’ is notable for being locallyowned. It carries a range of goods butis especially well known for inexpensiveelectronics and household appliances.LOCK CHA TEA SHOPMap p80Food & Drink%2805 1360; Ground fl, 290B Queen’s Rd Central;g26This favourite shop sells Chinese teas ofinfinite variety, as well as tea sets, woodentea boxes and well-presented gift packs ofvarious cuppas. A great bonus is that youcan try before you buy. Enter the shop fromLadder St.ADDICTION Map p80Homewares%2581 2779; 15 Gough St, Central; h9.30am-6.30pm; MTR Sheung Wan (exit A2)Ever more independent retailers are openingup in this corner of Soho, and thisone sells quirky and endearing designinterpretations of everything from lampsto cushions to T-shirts, most of them portableenough to consider buying and takinghome.MIGHTY MICROMALLSCrammed into old buildings, above MTR stations, upescalators and in back lanes are Hong Kong’s micromallsconsisting of microshops, selling designer threads, akaleidoscope of kooky accessories and a colourful closetof funky footwear. This is where Hong Kong’s youngestmall-trawlers go for clothes and trinkets. The best shoppingis done from 3pm to 10pm, when all the shopsare open.• Beverley Commercial Centre (Map p106 ; 87-105Chatham Rd South, Tsim Sha Tsui; MTR East TsimSha Tsui, exit P3) Enter via the passage north ofObservatory Rd• Island Beverley (Map p85 ; 1 Great George St,Causeway Bay; MTR Causeway Bay, exit E)• Rise Commercial Centre (Map p106 ; 5-11 GranvilleCircuit, Tsim Sha Tsui; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui,exit B2)• Trendy Zone (Map p108 ; Chow Tai Fook Centre,580A Nathan Rd, Mong Kok; MTR Mong Kok,exit D2)• Up Date Mall (Map p104 ; 36-44 Nathan Rd, TsimSha Tsui; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui, exit A1)ECOLS Map p80Homewares, Gifts%3106 4918; 8 & 10 Gough St, Central; MTRSheung Wan (exit A2)Smart, creative interiors stuff includingfurniture, bowls, candles and bags, some ofit small enough to pack as gift items and allof it made from recycled materials.HOMELESS Map p80Homewares, Gifts%2581 1880; 29 Gough St, Central; MTR SheungWan (exit A2)This flagship of a small but growingcontemporary interiors retail chain ispacked full of good ideas and portablegifts to take home, from smart gadgetssuch as laser clocks to quirky practicaland decorative mugs, chairs, and decorativeitems.PO KEE FISHING TACKLEMap p80Sporting Goods%2543 7541; 6 Hillier St; hclosed Sun; MTRSheung Wan (exit A2)The guys at Po Kee have had the marketcornered – hook, line and sinker – on fishingsupplies since 1933, when it served Hong165lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING HONG KONG ISLAND

lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING HONG KONG ISLANDKong’s commercial fishing fleet. Now itexclusively serves sports-fishing enthusiasts.CAUSEWAY BAYCauseway Bay has perhaps the largest weekendcrowds and the broadest spectrum interms of price. It is a crush of departmentstores and smaller outlets selling designerand street fashion, electronics, sporting goodsand household items. A good up-and-comingneighbourhood for hip fashions is springingup along Paterson and Kingston Sts close toVictoria Park. Causeway Bay also has a fewlively street markets. Jardine’s Bazaar (actuallya street) and the area behind it are hometo stalls and shops peddling cheap clothing,luggage and footwear. The area is also home tothe huge Times Square shopping mall.D-MOP Map p85Clothing & Accessories%2203 4130; Shop B, Ground fl, 8 Kingston St;MTR Causeway Bay (exit E)This is the main outlet for one of HongKong’s edgier designer lines. It specialisesin slinky tops, some out-there one-offs,cool shoes and a handful of hip hipstersfrom international labels such as Tsubi.DADA CABARET VOLTAIREMap p85Clothing & Accessories%2890 1708; Shop F-13A, 1st fl, Fashion Island,47 Paterson St; h12.30-10pm; MTR CausewayBay (exit E)Selling bold urban clothing in primarycolours also sported by the staff, this isjust one of many fine shops in the FashionIsland micromall, where you’ll also findbranches of shoe god Patrick Cox, ArmaniExchange and Gay Giano.LCX Map p85Clothing & Accessories%2890 5200; 9 Kingston St, Fashion Walk, CausewayBay; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10.30pmSat & Sun; MTR Causeway Bay (exit E)This fashion outlet is a good example ofthe new stores sending Causeway Bay upmarket.Inside the stylishly lit plate glassyou’ll find clothes from top urban labels, includingMarc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, Paul & Joeand Sonia Rykiel, plus upmarket beauty lines.SISTER Map p85Clothing & Accessories%2504 1016; Shop 331, 3rd fl, Island Beverley,1 Great George St; h2-11pm; MTR Causeway Bay(exit E)This ‘ trendy fashion store’ sells young HongKong designer wear verging on the wacky,which is saying something given thecompetition in this mall.WALTER MA Map p85 Clothing & Accessories%2838 7655; Ground fl, 33 Sharp St East;hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10.30pm Sat & Sun;MTR Causeway Bay (exit A)Sophisticated but comfortable women’sfashions from the daddy of Hong Kong’shome-grown fashion industry. It rangesGIVE GIFT, GAIN FACEIf you’re invited around to dinner or have a reason for buying a gift for locals, a lukewarm bottle of cheap plonk or abunch of limp carnations from the nearest convenience store just won’t do. Gift giving is an important way to gain (orlose) face. Do yourself and your intended recipients a favour, avoid embarrassment by making an effort. And don’t forgetthat white flowers are associated with death and funerals, so it’s best to pick another colour.Anglo-Chinese Florist (Map p78 ; %2921 2986; Ground fl, Winway Bldg, 50 Wellington St; MTR Central, exit D2)If you’ve been invited to someone’s home and you wish to bring flowers – as is de rigueur here – stop by Anglo-Chinese. You’ll also find some exquisite bonsai here.Armani Fiori (Map p67 ; %2532 7766; Chater House, 11 Chater Rd; MTR Central, exit H) Chic modern flower arrangementsand plant gifts. Minimalist look, maximum prices.Cigarro (Map p67 ; %2810 1883; Shop 5, Ground fl, St George’s Bldg, 2 Ice House St; MTR Central, exit G) There’snothing like a fat cigar to pay your respects to that alpha male who has everything. This smoke shop in Central comesto the rescue with Cuban, Dominican and Nicaraguan stogies, among others.Cova (Map p67 ; %2869 8777; Shop 134-5, 1/fl Princes Bldg; MTR Central, exit H) Fine cakes and confectionery inopulent golden tins and wrappings.Mandarin Oriental Flower Shop (Map p67 ; %2825 4019; Ground fl, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd Central;MTR Central, exit F) Exquisite flowers, of course.166

from smart-casual office wear to moreglamorous evening wear.IN SQUARE Map p85Computers10th-11th fls, Windsor House, 311 Gloucester Rd;MTR Causeway Bay (exit D1)This landmark building in Causeway Bayhouses dozens of reliable computer shops,selling both hardware and software. There’salso space to browse at leisure here, unlikethe usual electronics warren.SOGO Map p85Department Store%2833 8338; www.sogo.com.hk; 555 HennessyRd; MTR Causeway Bay (exit B)This Japanese-owned store, in the hub ofCauseway Bay, has 12 well-organised floorsand more than 37,000 sq metres of retailspace. The range is mind-boggling: over20 brands of ties just for starters. Eclecticdepartments include the Barbie Counterand the Character’s Shop.MOUNTAINEERING SERVICESMap p85Outdoor Gear%2541 8876; Ground fl, 271 Gloucester Rd; MTRCauseway Bay (exit D1 )This excellent and centrally located shopsells climbing and hiking gear and prettymuch everything you need for tacklingHong Kong’s hills and country parks.COUP DE FOUDRE Map p85Shoes%3428 2655; 222 & 223 Island Beverley, 1 GreatGeorge St; MTR Causeway Bay (exit E)If you can’t find the shoe design you’vehad in your head, then come to this place,which will custom-make shoes to yourdesigns and, it claims, have them ready foryou within three days.CITYPLAZA Map pp62-3Shopping Mall%2568 8665; www.cityplaza.com.hk; 18 Tai KooShing Rd , Tai Koo Shing, Quarry Bay; MTR Tai Koo(exit D2)The largest shopping centre in eastern HongKong Island, with 180 shops (mainly fashionand electronics), Cityplaza is directly linkedto the MTR. Being further from the mainbusiness district, it charges retailers lowerrents, which can translate into lower pricesfor shoppers. There’s a Wing On departmentstore here, as well as an ice-skating rink.RAINBOW CITY Map p85Shopping Mall%2881 1423; 1st fl, Fashion Island, Great GeorgeSt; MTR Causeway Bay (exit E)Japanese cartoons and all manner of kitschis splashed across the clothes and bags invivid technicolour in this store aimed atlocal teens, tweens and 20-somethings.TIMES SQUARE Map p85Shopping Mall% 2118 8900; www.timessquare.com.hk;1 Matheson St; MTR Causeway Bay (exit A)The 10 floors of retail organised by type areslightly less high end than in Central. Fashionbrands and outlets include Lane Crawford,Anne Sui, Aquascutum, Birkenstock,Marks & Spencer, Vivienne Westwood andVivienne Tam. There are plenty of electronicsand homewares. There are restaurantson the 10th to 13th floors, and snack bars,cafés and a supermarket in the basement.KOWLOONShopping in Kowloon is a bizarre mix of thedown at heel and the glamorous, and an afternoon’sstroll through its shopping quartersshould yield quite a few surprises.TSIM SHA TSUI, TSIM SHATSUI EAST & HUNG HOMNathan Rd is the main tourist strip, a hugeavenue with side streets full of camera, watchand electronics shops, and leather and silkemporiums. Although this is the part of townwhere you’re most likely to become a victim ofsharp practice, Tsim Sha Tsui is also home toa large number of above-board designer andsignature shops. Some of these are found inNathan Rd, but the bulk are in Harbour City,a labyrinthine shopping complex with a mallthat stretches nearly 1km from the Star Ferryterminal north along Canton Rd. Many hotelslonelyplanet.comSHOPPING KOWLOON167

lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING KOWLOONin Tsim Sha Tsui have very upmarket boutiqueshopping arcades, most notably the Peninsulaand the Hotel Inter-Continental.BEATNIKS Map p106Clothing & Accessories%2739 8494; Shop 1, Rise Commercial Bldg,Granville Circuit; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B1)The selective stock ensures a visit to thisvintage-clothing shop isn’t like the jumblesalerummage you get with many secondhandoutlets. The focus here is on streetstyles and left-field cool, rather than onhigh fashion or couture.GRANVILLE ROADMap p106Clothing & AccessoriesGranville Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B2)If you want to hunt for bargains and havethe time and inclination to riffle throughracks and piles of factory seconds, thedozen or so factory outlet stores alongGranville Rd should reward you with itemsat a fraction of store prices. It’s pot luckas to what labels you will find, althoughthey tend to be familiar, slightly premiummainstream casual and leisure brands (bothinternational and local). Hotspots includeUNO OUN (29 Granville Rd), Sample Moon (30 GranvilleRd) and the Baleno Outlet Store (24B Granville Rd).MUJI Map p104 Clothing & Accessories, Homewares%3188 1818; L4 Ocean Centre, Harbour City, TsimSha Tsui; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit L4)This Japanese mini-department-store chainis somewhere between the amazinglydiverse iterations you’ll find in Japan andthe slightly blander versions you’ll findin Europe. You name it – this place has asmart, inexpensive version of it whetherit be smart and wearable his and hersfashion, stationery, accessories, snacks orhousehold items.SAM’S TAILOR Map p104 Clothing & Accessories%2367 9423; Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94Nathan Rd; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noonSun; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B1)It’s not certain that Sam’s is the best tailorin Hong Kong, but it’s the most aggressivelymarketed and best known. Sam’s hasstitched up everyone – from royalty androck stars to us.WWW.IZZUE.COMMap p104Clothing & Accessories%2992 0612; Shop 2225, 2nd fl, Gateway Arcade,Harbour City, 25-27 Canton Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui(exit E)You’ll find simple, energetic and comfortablestyles in this chain of bright, modernboutiques. There are 15 outlets throughoutthe territory, including a branch in Central(Map p67 ; %2868 4066; Upper Ground fl, 10 Queen’sRd Central).STAR COMPUTER CITYMap p104Computers2nd fl, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd; fStar FerryThis is the largest complex of retail computeroutlets in Tsim Sha Tsui, with sometwo-dozen shops selling PDAs, laptops, computergames, and all manner of cables andaccessories. You could certainly do slightlybetter on price further north in Mong Kok,JUST FOR KIDSFor hundreds of square feet and dozens of outlets dedicated solely to children, head to the ground floor of the OceanTerminal ( p103 ) at Harbour City in Tsim Sha Tsui, which is packed with children’s clothes, shoe and toy shops.The following independents should also have something for most youngsters.Kitty House Gift Shop (Map p85 ; %2890 6968; Shop 229, Island Beverley, 1 Great George St, Causeway Bay; MTRCauseway Bay, exit E) This is just one of the dozens of microstores crammed into Island Beverley selling Japanesecartoon ephemera such as Hello Kitty, the cat with no mouth. It’s an abiding attraction for young locals. A good placefor kitsch gifts and toys.Little Misses & Mini Masters (Map p67 ; %2156 1118; Shop 307, 3rd fl, Prince’s Bldg, 10 Chater Rd; MTR Central,exit G) Horrible name, but this expat-managed independent has some stylish clothing and a few upmarket toys.Toy Museum (Map p67 ; %2869 9138; Shop 320, 3rd fl, Prince’s Bldg, 10 Chater Rd; MTR Central, exit K) Top-ofthe-lineteddy bears, action men, Beanie Babies and Pokemon paraphernalia are crammed into a tight space here.Wise Kids (Map p72 ; %2868 0133; Shop 134, 1st fl, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty; MTR Admiralty, exit F)Nothing to plug in, nothing with batteries: Wise Kids concentrates on engaging kids’ creativity and craft skills.168

ut as well as being handier, these outletsare probably a bit more reliable.ALAN CHAN CREATIONSMap p104Gifts & Souvenirs%2723 2722; www.alanchancreations.com; Shop5A, Basement, Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Rd;MTR East Tsim Sha Tsui (exit L4)Alan Chan has designed everything – fromairport logos to soy-sauce bottles – andnow lends his name to stylish souvenirs,such as clothing and ceramic pieces. Someitems he has a direct hand in; others hesimply approves of. Cool, contemporaryChinese design that should inspire plentyof gift ideas.CURIO ALLEY Map p104Gifts & Souvenirsh10am- 8pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit C1)This is a fun place to shop for name chops,soapstone carvings, fans and other Chinesebric-a-brac. It’s found in an alleyway betweenLock and Hankow Rds, just south ofHaiphong Rd.KING SING JEWELLERY Map p104 Jewellery%2735 7021; Shop 14, Ground fl, Star House, 3Salisbury Rd; fStar FerryA long-standing jeweller with a wideselection of diamonds, pearls and golditems, many of them made by its owngoldsmiths. The sales staff is pleasant andnot pushy.OM INTERNATIONAL Map p104 Jewellery%2366 3421; 1st fl, Friend’s House, 6 CarnarvonRd; hclosed Sun; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B2)This place has an excellent selection ofsaltwater and freshwater pearls, and somegood deals. The staff is scrupulously honest,helpful and friendly.PREMIER JEWELLERYMap p104Jewellery%2368 0003; Shop G14-15, Ground fl, HolidayInn Golden Mile Shopping Mall, 50 Nathan Rd; MTRTsim Sha Tsui (exit G)This third-generation family firm is directedby a qualified gemmologist and is one ofour favourite places to shop. The range isn’thuge, but if you’re looking for somethingparticular, give Premier Jewellery a day’snotice and a selection will be ready in timefor your arrival. Staff can also help youdesign your own piece.GIGA SPORTS Map p104Outdoor Gear%2115 9930; Shop 244-247, 2nd fl, Ocean Terminal,Harbour City, Salisbury Rd; h10am-8pm;fStar FerryThis vast sports superstore is Hong Kong’slargest, with a wide range of sports equipment,backpacks, clothing and footwear.TRAVELMAX Map p104Outdoor Gear%3188 4271; Shop 270-273, 2nd fl, Ocean Terminal,Harbour City, Salisbury Rd; fStar FerryTravelmax sells both lightweight and coldweatheroutdoor gear; kids’ sizes are available.There’s a good range of Eagle Creektravel products here, too.DAVID CHAN PHOTO SHOPMap p104Photographic Equipment%2723 3886; Shop 15, Ground fl, ChampagneCourt, 16 Kimberley Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B1)If you’ve decided to give the digital agea miss altogether, or at least still use filmcameras, this dealer is one of the most reliablein Hong Kong and sells both new andantique cameras.HARBOUR CITY Map p104 Shopping Mall%2118 8666; www.harbourcity.com.hk; 3-9Canton Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit C1)This is an enormous place, with 700 shops,50 food and beverage outlets, and five cinemas.Outlets are arrayed in four separatezones: for kids, sport, fashion, and cosmeticsand beauty. There’s also a large LaneCrawford department store. Every majorbrand is represented.KS AHLUWALIA & SONSMap p104Sporting Goods%2368 8334; 8C Hankow Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui(exit E)Long established, this store is well stockedwith golf gear, tennis racquets, cricket bats,shirts and balls. It’s cash only, and no pricesare marked, so haggle away.OCEAN SKY DIVERSMap p104Sporting Goods% 2366 3738; www.oceanskydiver.com; 1st fl,17-19 Lock Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit C1)Along with a full range of diving and snorkellinggear, this place is also worth consultingabout dive courses and ideal divesites all around the Hong Kong’s coastlineand islands.169lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING KOWLOON

lonelyplanet.comSHOPPING KOWLOONYAU MA TEI & MONG KOKTo the north of Tsim Sha Tsui, Yau Ma Tei andMong Kok cater mostly to local shoppers andoffer good prices on clothing, sporting goods,camping gear, footwear, computers and otherdaily necessities. There’s nothing very exoticavailable here, but for your everyday itemsthey’re popular spots, and it is fun to see howthe local people shop and to check out whatthey are buying.TRENDY ZONE Map p108 Clothing & AccessoriesChow Tai Fook Centre, 580A Nathan Rd; h1-10pm;MTR Mong Kok (exit E2)A terribly uncool name, yes, but you’llfind a couple of dozen quirky little fashionoutlets crowded into this micromall sellingnew and vintage gear for guys and gals. It’svery urban and aimed largely at a teen and20-something clientele.MONG KOK COMPUTER CENTREMap p111Computers8-8A Nelson St, Mong Kok; h1-10pm; MTR MongKok (exit E2)This centre has three floors of computershops. In general, it’s geared more towardsthe resident Cantonese-speaking marketthan foreigners, but you can normally getbetter deals here than in Tsim Sha Tsui.Check out Winframe System (%2300 1238; Shop106-107) on the 1st floor.YUE HWA CHINESE PRODUCTSEMPORIUM Map p108Department Store%2384 0084; 301-309 Nathan Rd; MTR Jordan(exit A)This enormous place, with seven floors ofceramics, furniture, souvenirs and clothing,has absolutely everything the souvenirhuntingtourist could possibly want, aswell as bolts of silk, herbs, clothes, porcelain,luggage, umbrellas and kitchenware.There’s also a branch in Tsim Sha Tsui onKowloon Park Dr (Map p104 ; %2317 5333; 1 KowloonPark Dr) that’s entered from Peking Rd.CHAMONIX ALPINE EQUIPMENTMap p108Outdoor Gear%2770 6746; 1st fl, On Yip Bldg, 395 Shanghai St;MTR Yau Ma Tei (exit B2)Far-flung but worth the trip, this Mong Kokshop, run by an avid mountaineer, has awide range of camping, hiking and climbingequipment.170WISE MOUNT SPORTSMap p111Outdoor Gear% 2787 3011; Ground fl, 75 Sai Yee St;h11.30am-10.30pm; MTR Mong Kok (exit E2)This is a long-standing family-run shop withcamping gear, swimming goggles, pocketknives, compasses, hard-wearing bags andeven sports trophies for sale.LANGHAM PLACE MALLMap p111Shopping Mall% 3520 2800; 8 Argyle St; MTR Mong Kok (exit C3)This 15-storey supermall has some 300shops that stay open till as late as 11pm.The focal point of the mall is the high-techDigital Sky, where special events take place.KHS BICYCLES Map p111Sporting Goods%2733 7777; 201 Tung Choi St; MTR Mong Kok( exit A2)A well-stocked shop offering a range ofbikes from urban runabouts to mountainbikes and a good supply of accessories.NEW KOWLOONShopping venues in New Kowloon run thegamut from glittering shopping malls, suchas Festival Walk in Kowloon Tong, to the cutpricecomputer centres of Sham Shui Po.GOLDEN COMPUTER ARCADEMap pp100-1ComputersBasement & 1st fl, 146-152 Fuk Wa St, Sham ShuiPo; Sham MTR Shui Po (exit B1)This centre sells computers and components,as well as software, VCDs and DVDs,all at the lowest prices this side of Shenzhen.NEW CAPITAL COMPUTER PLAZAMap pp100-1Computers1st & 2nd fls, 85-89 Un Chau St, Sham Shui Po; MTRSham Shui Po (exit B1)This emporium of computer shops has agood range of stock and helpful staff whocan produce enough English to close a sale.FESTIVAL WALK Map pp100-1 Shopping Mall%2844 2222; www.festivalwalk.com.hk; 80-88 TatChee Ave, Kowloon Tong; h10am-midnight; MTRKowloon Tong (exit C2)Festival Walk is a huge and glitteringshopping mall with Hong Kong’s largestcinema and ice-skating rink. It has a goodmidrange selection of some 200 shops andaround two-dozen restaurants as well.

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