All is calm at night in Punta Cana. - Steve Larese

All is calm at night in Punta Cana.

D.R.TheWill See You NowLOOKING FOR ADVENTURE? FROMPUNTA CANA TO SANTO DOMINGO TOPUERTO PLATA, THE DOMINICAN REPUBLICDELIVERS. Text And Photos By Steve Larese

Colorful Haitian art is displayedon a Punta Cana beach.The highlighted routes indicate the roadsthe author took from Punta Cana (A) toSabana de la Mar (B), and Punta Cana toBoca de Yuma (C) to La Romana (D) toSanto Domingo (E) to Puerto Plata (F).IntervalWorld.com

the ballenas (humpback whales).We’re directed to Roberto, who operateshis tour company from a smallbuilding. He tells us we’re about aweek too early for the whales, whomate here from mid-January throughMarch before migrating north tofeed. Instead, we pay Roberto 1,500pesos (US$42) each for a boat tour ofthe Parque Nacional los Haitises, an83-square-mile nature preserve ofmangroves reached only by water.The D.R. boasts an impressivenumber of protected natural areas,including 19 national parks and sixscientific reserves, and that number isgrowing. Some — such as theSantuario de Mamíferos Marinos,north of the Samaná Peninsula — areunderwater sanctuaries that cater todivers. In all, several species of sea turtles,303 types of birds, 33 landmammals, and 5,600 varieties of plantsare found in the country, and that’s notto mention the sea life that abounds inthe coral reefs. Gazing at the unspoiledwaters of the Bay of Samaná, we cansee the seeds of ecotourism germinate.Nice And LeisurelyLater, back at our resort near Punta Cana, we’re enjoying theamenities of our all-inclusive resort. The white-powder beachslips under lapping waves, and Kat and I lose track of timelounging under coconut trees. We stroll the beach, admiringHaitian paintings for sale at a stall, before enjoying predinnercocktails as we try to decide which of the resort’srestaurants we should try tonight. After dinner, we brieflyconsider catching a Dominican-themed show, but we have along drive tomorrow, so we retire to our room.A Tale Of Two YumasKat and I have packed our bags, and we’re ready to trade ourhome base on the east coast for one in Puerto Plata. We havea 250-mile ride ahead of us and many places to see along theway. La Niña heads south toward San Rafael del Yuma, nearthe home of Juan Ponce de León, who arrived on Hispaniolain 1493, after Columbus’ second voyage. An experiencedIt’s a bit difficult tofind, but persevere,because Ponce deLeón’s fortress-likehome near SanRafael del Yumaprovides afascinating glimpseof the explorer’s lifeand times.INSET: Ponce deLeón’s originalfurniture, includinghis bed, are intactinside the house.LEFT: Carnival is acountrywide festival,with each townadding its diversemasks, costumes,characters, music,and celebrations.52 INTERVAL WORLD ■ Summer 2010 IntervalWorld.com

soldier, he put down Taíno rebellions,gained favor with the Spanish Crown,and mined for gold in Puerto Rico. In1513, Ponce de León set sail, landing inwhat he would name Florida. His mainmission was to find gold, but legend hashim searching in vain for the Fountainof Youth.The Fountain of Youth might beeasier to find than his house. We’reexpecting billboards pointing to whatwe’re sure is a major tourist draw, butthere’s nothing along quiet Highway 4but fields of sugar cane. Our GPS shows we’re near the area,so we begin asking residents of San Rafael del Yuma fordirections. After a right and a left, we pass a cemetery, then wecome to a dirt road that rises toward the Río Duey. We perkup as we notice an open wooden gate with the hours ofoperation hand-painted on it. Past the gate, we’re elated todiscover Ponce de León’s stately two-story home, a fortress ofa structure. A guide greets us and unchains the massive frontdoors. We pay 30 pesos (less than $1) each and explore theexplorer’s home, which he shared with his wife and children.The catch of the day for sale in Boca de Yuma.Original furniture, including his bed,as well as his armor and artifacts foundon the grounds provide us with aglimpse at life here in the 16th century.(In case you have trouble findingthe home, the GPS coordinates werecorded for the house are N 18º26.482,W 068º40.752.)Continuing south a few miles, wearrive at Boca de Yuma, a fishing villagejust north of the Parque Nacionaldel Este and Isla Saona, which is anisland nature preserve. Again, we’resurprised that this gorgeous piece of oceanfront propertyisn’t overrun with tourists and hotels. We stop at BrújulaRestaurant, where a man named Rafael introduces us to thepopular santo libre — rum and Sprite. We dine on seafoodthat must have been swimming an hour ago, and watchlocals play dominos on their lunch break.After lunch, we stroll down the main street, passing by awoman selling freshly caught lobster. After learning that we’returistas, the woman asks us why we’re here. “Porque es bonito”(“Because it’s pretty”), we respond. The woman puts downAltos de Chavón overlooks the Chavón River.

her lobster and takes us by the hand, leading us around a cornerto the ruins of a Spanish fort with rusty cannonsoverlooking the bay. Men cast nets from brightly paintedboats bobbing in the turquoise water. Scanning for dolphinsper her instructions, and sipping Presidente beer, we begin towonder how much a house would cost here.Mediterranean On The CaribbeanPuerto Plata is still far away, and we’ve been itching to checkout nearby Altos de Chavón, so we hit the road. Near LaRomana, on the grounds of the Casa de Campos resort, Altosde Chavón is a replica of a 16th-century Mediterranean village.Built in the 1980s by Gulf+Western founder CharlesBluhdorn as a cultural center for the people of the DominicanRepublic, Altos de Chavón seems fantastically out of place inthe D.R. Dominicans in period dress mill about, available forphoto opportunities. Artisans sell their wares, and bistros lendthe place a modern European flair. A paddleboat straight outof a Mark Twain story churns the waters of the Chavón River,and off in the distance, the world-renowned Dye Fore GolfCourse, designed by Pete Dye, challenges even expert players.The whole surreal scene reminds us of a movie set, andwith good reason. Bluhdorn, whose company ownedParamount Pictures, adored the D.R. Paramount set designerRobert Coppa designed Altos de Chavón, and Dominicanfashion designer Oscar de la Renta, a good friend of the executive,decorated the hotel rooms at Casa de Campo, whereBluhdorn entertained many movie execs and stars. The countryserved as a stand-in for Cuba in The Godfather: Part II,and the Chavón River played the part of the Mekong inApocalypse Now. Perhaps if Bluhdorn hadn’t died returningfrom the D.R. to the U.S. in 1983, the country would be aCaribbean Hollywood today.We walk over to the Regional Museum of Archeology. Thecurator, Diógenes, discusses the many Taíno artifacts, art, anddiagrams on display, and we leave Altos de Chavón for SantoDomingo all the more impressed than when we arrived.Capital GainsOn our way west to Santo Domingo, we stop and watch afew innings of a youth baseball practice. Baseball is next toreligion in the D.R., and many Dominicans, including AlbertPujols, Hanley Ramírez, and Sammy Sosa have played professionallyin the United States. The kids look at us quizzicallyCouples still marry at the ruins ofthe Monasterio de San Francisco,which was constructed nearly500 years ago.

until I say they’re the next Sammy Sosas, then they put on ashow that makes me believe it.While driving in the rural Dominican Republic, weencountered bad roads and scary driving; now, as weapproach Santo Domingo, the roads have improved, but thedriving, well, put it this way: The only traffic law we can discernis, Don’t hit anyone or anything; otherwise, it’s a bit of afree-for-all. And yet, in our entire time driving here we don’tsee one accident. Somehow, it works. Kat, a MINI Cooperdriver at home, steers la Niña like she was born here.Arriving in the capital, we’re delighted to find a decidedlyEuropean city rich with history. We park near the 12-blockZona Colonial, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; nearby, residentsenjoy the restaurants, shops, and sites alongside tourists.We start at the Parque Colón, where a statue ofChristopher Columbus points skyward in front of the GothicCatedral de Santa María la Menor, the oldest cathedral in theNew World. Calle las Damas, the firstpaved street in the New World, leads usto the Alcázar de Colón, the palace ofColumbus’ son Diego, who governedhere. At the Torre del Homenaje, weimagine soldiers watching from thetower for English buccaneers; and in thenational pantheon of IndependencePark we pay respects to the Dominicanheroes, such as Duarte, who areentombed here.Famished, Kat and I find a sidewalktable along Las Atarazanas, a row of16th-century warehouses that nowhouse cafes and shops. In the distance,we can make out the modern ColumbusLighthouse, a glass structure built in1992 to commemorate the 500thanniversary of Columbus’ first landing.Its light can be seen from Puerto Rico,and the explorer’s remains finally resthere, after having been moved manytimes throughout the centuries.At night, Santo Domingo lights upwith merengue clubs and bars, but weget back in the car, navigating the citystreets until we find Highway 1 north toPuerto Plata, the Silver Port.Port AuthorityPuerto Plata was a major tobacco port, and its colorfulVictorian buildings with gingerbread fretwork reflect thosetimes and European influence. The city was founded in1502, and was named for the silver-ish hue of its beaches atsunset. It lies at the base of 2,800-foot Pico Isabel de Torres,whose peak we access via a 20-minute cable-car ride. It’s aclear day, and the views of the ocean and surroundingmountains are stunning.Closer to sea level, there is a charming plaza with a twostoryBelgian-designed gazebo called La Glorieta, which hasbecome the symbol of Puerto Plata. Just two blocks away isthe must-see Museo del Ámbar. Once the home of a wealthyentrepreneurial German family, the museum contains anexceptional collection of prehistoric insects and lizardspreserved in amber — fossilized tree resin, likely from a nowextinctspecies of a prehistoric tree. The museum enjoyed itsThe kids look at us quizzically until I say they’rethe next Sammy Sosas, then they put on a showthat makes me believe it.56 INTERVAL WORLD ■ Summer 2010

Santo Domingo, the oldest Europeansettlement in the Americas, retains aContinental flavor.Wood carvings make great souvenirsof a Dominican Republic vacation.Dominican heroes, including Juan Pablo Duarte, areentombed in the pantheon of Independence Park.

The graceful La Glorieta gazebo (background)has become a symbol of Puerto Plata.15 minutes of fame in the movie Jurassic Park, in which DNA extractedfrom the museum’s collection leads to the rebirth of dinosaurs. PuertoPlata amber is considered among the best and clearest in the world, andthe museum has a gift shop where specimens and jewelry may be purchased.Kat buys a pair of earrings made of larimar, a turquoise-likemineral that is found in only one mine worldwide, in the Dominicanprovince of Bahoruco.At the tip of Puerto Plata’s beachfront malecón, we explore the picturesque16th-century San Felipe Fortress, with its still-present cannonsprimed to pick off nonexistent pirates. As with so many things in the D.R.,it’s the oldest of its kind in the New World.Before retiring to our resort to drink in the Dominican sun on thebeach, Kat and I take the tour of the Brugal rum factory, which wasfounded in Puerto Plata in 1888. The D.R. has been a leading rum makerfor centuries, beginning not long after Columbus first brought sugar canehere from the Canary Islands. We enjoy our free samples at the end of thetour, and it immediately becomes clear why Brugal is a national favorite.Before long, we’re finally appreciating what so many come to theD.R. for: beautiful beaches and lulling Caribbean waves. After a fewhours, the sun begins to ignite the clouds with a pastel palette, and wedecide to take a stroll. A boy approaches us and holds out his hand,revealing several ornate shells that he has collected.“Lo siento.” I apologize and tell him I don’t have any money.“Es un regalo,” he says. A gift. Placing the shells in my hand, he smilesand walks off, and leaves us with the perfect way to remember theDominican Republic. ■Albuquerque-based writer and photographer Steve Larese is a regular contributor toInterval World. He wrote about St. Maarten in the Spring 2010 issue.fastFACTSRESORT DIRECTORY: IntervalWorld.comor pages 167 to 168 and 173CLIMATE: Expect high temperatures between80°F and 90°F throughout the year in the D.R.’scoastal areas. The fall can be rainy at times.CURRENCY: Dominican pesoSALES TAX: 16%TIPPING: A 10% surcharge is added to thebill at restaurants; add the equivalent ofanother dollar or two for good service. For taxidrivers, tipping isn’t necessary, but giving alittle extra is appreciated.INTERVAL TRAVEL: IntervalWorld.comRENTAL CAR: RecommendedCONTACT: Altos de Chavón,casadecampo.com.do; Zona Colonial,colonialzone-dr.com; Museo del Ámbar,ambermuseum.com; Brugal, brugal.com.doVISITOR INFORMATION:Dominican Republic Ministry of Tourism888.374.6361godominicanrepublic.comhispaniola.comMAKE AN EXCHANGEOR PURCHASE A GETAWAYAT INTERVALWORLD.COM.58 INTERVAL WORLD ■ Summer 2010 IntervalWorld.com