Scugdale, Barker's Crags - ClimbOnline.co.uk

248 North York Moors Scugdale, Barker's Crags 249BARKER'S CRAGSOS Landranger Sheet: 93Map Ref: NZ 520003Aspect: South FacingAltitude: 310mApproach: 5 minutesMod - Severe 22HS - HVS 11E1 - E3 14E4 and above 1Bouldering 82HistoryThe early history from the 1930s until 1956 follows the same theme as that for Scot Crags, withArthur Evans and Richard Wharldall being the prime movers. Sadly no details of their exploitshave been found, so it has not been possible to credit particular climbs to them. Throughout itsearly exploration the crag never enjoyed the popularity of Scot Crags and little of interest wasadded until 1965 when Stew Wilson and Geoff Harper climbed two existing but previously not ledroutes, Leaning Wall and The Chute respectively. Tony Marr discovered the superb Fallen Arch thefollowing year, and later during the early 1970s, added a number of hard problems including Avalonand Right Wall. During his visits Tony had noted several obviously hard, unclimbed lines and it wasnot long before he returned with Alan Taylor for a closer look. The pair concentrated their efforts atCleft Buttress, only to find the rival team of Paul Ingham and Tony McLean also probing the samelines. The first climb to fall was Finger Jam to Paul Ingham and Tony McLean, but the real prizeand worth every one of its three stars, New Dimensions, fell to Alan Taylor a short time later. Thetwo teams then combined their considerable talents to produce some of the best climbs at the cragincluding, Easter Edge, The Nose and Snatch Arête. The latest climbs generated much interestand it wasn’t long before Dave Paul added the powerful Hangover and the extremely serious GrandMaster Flash in 1984. Richard Davies made a significant contribution with many new and difficultroutes during 1987, of which Empty Illusions and Impressionless Lust justify a special mention. Atthe beginning of the 1990s interest shifted to producing eliminates and very hard problems. Themain exponents of this development were Francis (Monty) Montague, Martin Parker, and LiamWilson who between them created several desperate routes including Monty’s Leap, Smiler andThe Bends. Steve Crowe was also producing numerous excellent climbs at this time of whichAtticism, Breeze and Air Time are particularly noteworthy. Finally, during work for the previousedition of this guide in 2002, Tony Marr accompanied by Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald and PeterShawcross filled two obvious gaps with Over the Top and Whazzup. That age old question; “Are therocks fully worked out?” Only time will tell!Situation and CharacterIt is hard to believe that the first climbs at Barker’s Crags lie only a stone’s throw from the hustleand bustle of Scot Crags, but it’s true. Once the fence is crossed the peace and tranquillity is verynoticeable, and it is not unusual to have the whole crag to oneself. The crags comprise a seriesof isolated buttresses of good quality, weathered sandstone, separated by a couple of minuteswalking. If you are seeking high quality climbs of all standards or just somewhere to get away fromthe crowds, look no further.Access and ApproachesFollow the approach described to Scot Crags. Do Not climb over the wire fence, but continueto a stile on the moor edge, just above rocks. The first climbs lie a few metres right of the fenceand slightly lower than Scot Crags. Although is possible to walk along the bottom of the entireescarpment, at certain times of the year thick bracken is an impediment and it is much quickerand easier to walk between buttresses by following the moor path at the top of the crags.Note: Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a CROW restriction forall dogs to be kept on a lead.Jason Wood soloing 38. Snatch Arête (E2 5c) Photo: Jason Wood Coll.