SEAWISE WITH DON STREETWas your boat’s performance in last year’s ChristmasWinds less than adequate, or did stiff tradewinds everkeep you from heading out altogether? Now is the timeto act! Installing a removable inner forestay for a staysail,so you can get where you want to go in higherwinds, might convert you from a weather-windowwimp to a high-wind hero. Adding staysail capability isa summer project that will pay off big next winter.When Reefed Jibs Don’t WorkThe majority of boats sailing in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> todayare single-headsail sloops with a roller-furling jib. Itis possible to roll up a jib somewhat and preserve itsshape if the jib sheet is moved forward so that it is inthe correct position (see my article on page 24 in theMay <strong>2015</strong> issue of <strong>Compass</strong> at www.caribbeancompass.com/online/may15compass_online.pdf).www.caribbeancompass.com/online/december-14compass_online.pdf), will change the very uncomfortable,slow and possibly scary passage to a relativelycomfortable and much faster passage.When beating to windward in heavy weather in theVirgins, my 28-foot yawl Li’l Iolaire, under staysail andreefed main, was keeping up with 40-foot sloops thatwere flying a reefed main and a jib rolled up to aNumber 3.On ketches and yawls often the main is dropped andthe speed stays the same, so the crew thinks this isthe easy and correct way to shorten down. It is, if afterdousing the main you can still easily lay the course.However, if the ketch or yawl cannot lay the coursebecause the slot effect is lost and the tacking angle hasgone from 90 to 120 degrees, as above, the VMG hasdesign and could fabricate a Merriman-type releaselever for various sized wires for about EC$900.The Schaefer release lever unfortunately is no longermanufactured. It was the perfect release lever for wiresizes of 1/4 inch or less. Twice it went out of productionbut twice it went back into production as a resultof articles I wrote, one for Sail magazine, the other forCruising World, on the necessity of a removable staysailstay on for heavy weather on all single headsailboats. The Schaefer release lever took up little space,was operated by a standard winch handle, and waspowerful enough to tension staysail stays of a quarterinch. In 2012 Schafer came out with a newer modelwith a built-in turnbuckle to finally tension the stay,but to my mind the older one, now sadly out of production,was much superior.ADD ASTAYSAILAUGUST <strong>2015</strong> CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22NOW!JEREMY MCGEARY (2)NOTE for all the sail plans: CLP is the center of lateral plane of the hull; M is the center of effort (CE) of the mainsail; F is the CE of the foresail (jib or staysail);T is the combined CE of both sailsLeft: A reefed mainsail and a genoa rolled up into a ‘bag’ is not a weatherly rig for a sloopRight: Replacing the genoa with a staysail on a removable stay restores the slot, lowers the combined center of effort of the sails,reduces heeling, and improves balance — all of which lead to better windward abilityBut when a roller-furling jib is reefed way down thesail loses its shape, you have lost the slot effectbetween headsail and main, and the center of efforthas moved forward throwing the boat out of balance.Result? You cannot sail close to the wind. Your speedmay stay up, but the tacking angle opens up so yourspeed made good (VMG) to windward drops off.All too often wherever we want to go is dead to windward.Cruising sailors on inter-island passagesencountering a rising wind will usually roll up the jibuntil it is a baggy Number 3. Then they discover theycannot lay the course, the current is setting them toleeward, and a close reach or tight fetch has become adead beat to windward.Keep in mind that when you are tacking in 90degrees you must sail 1.4 miles to make one mile towindward, but if tacking in 120 degrees you must sailtwo miles to make one mile to windward. If you keepyour speed up by using a wide tacking angle your VMGnosedives and thus your actual speed goes down bysome 30 percent.What’s the Difference?This is when a staysail on a removable stay can getyou where you want to go. Set up the removable stayand hoist a hanked-on staysail. The jib should then becompletely rolled up. The staysail plus a reefed ordouble-reefed main is a balanced, close-winded rig.The center of effort is close to where it was under fullsail and the slot effect has been regained. The staysail,combined with a reefed or double reefed main (see myarticle in the December 2014 issue of <strong>Compass</strong> atdropped some 30 percent.Single-headsail ketches should roll up their headsail,drop the mizzen and set the staysail on theremovable staysail stay. The slot effect has returned,the center of effort is in the correct place, the sails arecentered and all is well.The mizzen is so small on a yawl that dropping themizzen does not really reduce sail area, so the singleheadsailyawl should reef the main and set up a staysailon a removable stay.The Release LeverTo make this system work it is essential that thestaysail stay can be connected to a release lever thatis powerful enough so that when it is thrown to the“on” position, the staysail stay is under full tension.There should be no turnbuckles or other tensioningdevices needing to be adjusted. Adjusting a turnbuckleon the foredeck in heavy weather is a good way tolose a crew overboard.There is a catch — finding a proper release lever canbe difficult. Some good ones have been specially fabricatedbut in all of history there have been made onlytwo really good off-the-shelf release levers. For wires5/16 inches and up, the Merriman release lever invarious sizes was perfect. The Merriman lever was sopowerful that it was able to put a bow in Iolaire’s oversizealuminum mast (11 inches in fore-and-aft dimensions).In the 1970s, Nautor fabricated out of aluminumplate Merriman-type release levers for theirSparkman and Stephens-designed 44s, 47s and a fewother classes. I verified in 2011 that Nautor had theAsk around at boatyards, nautical flea markets,cruisers’ gear swaps, etcetera to find a good releaselever. The Merriman release lever on Iolaire was salvagedoff the Ondine that was wrecked on the windwardside of Anegada. If you cannot find a secondhandSchaefer release lever in a boat jumble or via theinternet, buy a standard old British Highfield backstay-releaselever (available from Davey, Classic Marineor Toplicht) and secure to it a short length of wire orDyneema, which runs through a block secured to thedeck. The wire or Dyneema should have an eye in it sothat it can be connected to the removable staysail stayvia a hook or shackle.The release lever (or lead block if using a Highfieldlever) must be firmly attached to the deck where thedeck can take the load. The forward chain locker bulkheadis ideal. Otherwise, bolt the release lever or leadblock to the deck via a T-plate of stainless or bronzefastened to the underside of the deck through-boltedto the release lever or lead block. To a hole in the T,fasten a wire with a turnbuckle that in turn is fastenedto another T firmly secured to the inside of the stem.Then set up the wire tight with the turnbuckle.The staysail stay should run approximately parallel tothe headstay. It will meet the mast approximately at theheight of the head of the reefed main. Most cruisingboats’ masts are overbuilt to the point that no runningbackstays are needed, as when hard on the wind thehead of the reefed main will meet the mast at the approximatepoint where the staysail stay meets the mast.—Continued on next page
— Continued from previous pageWhen beating to windward the leach of the main willsupport the staysail stay. If it is decided that runners areneeded, the runners should lead through a block approximatelyas far aft of the mast as the staysail is forward ofthe mast and secured as far outboard as possible. Thismeans on most boats, when going to windward withreefed main, both runners can be left set up. Any goodrigging shop can make up a mast fitting to take the staysailstay, and, if desired, the running backstays.The staysail stay should be tightened in port byadjusting the stay tension with the turnbuckle withthe lever in the “on” position. Once the proper adjustmentis made, the staysail stay should be disconnectedand upended so the turnbuckle is at the top ofthe stay where it meets the mast. This means thestaysail will be right down on the deck when in itsstowed position.The SailHave your sailmaker build a heavy-weather staysail.It should be cut close to the deck with no overlap. Thismakes it almost impossible for someone working onthe Toplicht staysail hank, which opens on a horizontalplane. These also are less apt to get caught in aflogging jib sheet than a piston hank.To simplify things, rig the heavy weather staysailwith an external halyard.In SummaryWhen flying a heavy weather staysail in combinationwith a single-reefed main, the vast majority of moderncruising boats will work to windward efficiently andwith a modicum of comfort in 25 knots of wind. If themain is double-reefed, the boat should work to windwardin 30 knots. This rig will get you where you wantto go without having horror stories to tell about knockdownsor tacking back and forth and going nowhere!The TightTurtle BagTo help the sailmaker make a really good tight turtlebag, take the heavy weather staysail to the sail loft,with a short piece of heavy wire or 3/16 rod. Snap thehanks onto the rod, furl the staysail as tight as youcan, secure the staysail sheets to the clew with a cowhitch and flake down the sheets on top of the sail.Have the sailmaker make a full-length bag closedwith a heavy zipper. Close the forward end of the bagwith a flap around the stay and the hanks, with theflap secured to the bag with Velcro. Then have him orher sew on a second zipper outside of the first, soplaced that when the second zipper is pulled up thesail is packed tightly.AUGUST <strong>2015</strong> CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23JEREMY MCGEARYOn a ketch, a reefed mainsail and a staysail, with the genoa and mizzen stowed,makes a good rig for working to windward in heavy weatherAbove: The Highfield lever (illustrated in acutaway view) can be used to tension aremovable staysail stay. Since only a fewinches of throw are needed, additionalleverage can be had by drilling an extrahole closer to the pivot pointLeft: The Shaefer release lever SRL500the foredeck to get washed overside, plus the amountof sheet that needs to be pulled in when tacking will beshort — with good timing, very little sheet will have tobe ground in on a winch. Finally, with a low-cut staysailif someone is working on the foredeck and the sailflogs, he or she will be hit in the legs rather than in thehead or face.The staysail should be stowed hanked onto the staysailstay, in a double-zippered turtle bag with thestaysail sheets in the bag secured to the staysail via acow hitch. I specify a cow hitch rather than tying thesheets to the clew with bowlines as no matter howcarefully you tie your bowlines, occasionally the bowlinewill flog free. Show me a sailor who says his or herbowlines have never flogged free and I will show you aliar. If it is kept in a tight turtle bag, the staysail canbe stowed attached to the staysail stay right alongsidethe mast, ready to go at a moment’s notice.Piston hanks have been known to open in heavyweather. Thus heavy weather staysails should haveSCHAEFER MARINE
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