Beauty beast

Fishy business“Bush medicine’s pretty powerful. We use the sap of the BeechHibiscus tree for mozzie bites,” says Roman, as we pass a fingerof water known as Cat Fish Creek, a popular aboriginal fishingspot. “We grind fresh water mangrove roots and dangle them ina string bag in the creek. Mangrove roots temporarily take theoxygen out of the water, hence stunning the fish, which thenfloat to the surface ready to be scooped up for supper,” saysRoman.Rounding a bend in the East Alligator River, we pull in to aglorious beach. “Two cyclones in two years demonstratednature’s awesome power to transform the landscape. Sevenmillion tonnes of sand were deposited, creating a desert wherea vast monsoon rainforest had once stood,” said Roman, turninga meteorological phenomenon into aboriginal mythology. Greatbeach, but pity about the swimming!Getting acquaintedTaking nature’s way along the Arnhem Highway back to Darwin,we stop at the Adelaide River where spectacular JumpingCrocodile Cruises deliver a ‘crocosaurus’ experience that has boththe croc and me leaping out of our skins.“That’s Michael Jackson. He’s black with a white face andchewed-up nose,” jokes the boatman as a 5-metre long maneaterglides towards us. There’s an estimated 150 crocodiles inthis waterway and for an hour, we get up close with Michael,Hannibal the Cannibal and some of their mates. With chunksof meat as performance enhancers, they powerfully propelthemselves upwards, twisting and spiralling their entire bodylength out of the water. Luring one high onto the riverbank,there are just two metres of metal boat between him and me.Despite constant warning signs, you don’t have to look toofar under the surface to see that there’s more to Kakaduthan crocodile spotting. There are rock art galleries to view,breathtaking sandstone landforms to explore, walks through easyand challenging terrains and blood red sunsets that saturate thesoul. We feel dwarfed by its haunting beauty, rugged landscapeand ancient culture and it provides a profound connection withimmense natural and spiritual worlds. It’s enough to send me tothe nearest bar for a croc-tail.00 Jetwings International August 2008