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Sipping Bergerac’s celebrated wines inspired us toexplore its winding medieval streets. A statue of Cyranode Bergerac – the town’s swashbuckling centerpiecestood imperiously on a pedestal. His nose pointedtowards Maison des Vins de Bergerac where, let’s faceit, noses are important! The Romans were the first touncork Bergerac’s ability to grow fine wines here. Aftera swift education on the 13 appellations, we drove toMonbazillac, just 15 minutes away, for a wine tastingamongst the vines. An appellation with elevation,this grand 16th century chateau was straight out ofthe pages of an Alexander Dumas novel and I halfexpected to hear the clatter of hooves in the courtyard,announcing the arrival of the three musketeers.Not to be outdone, petit Paunat too had a few secretgems right on its doorstep. On the edge of it's cornfields,Tremolat patisserie’s freshly baked croissants aux buerrequickly became a breakfast staple while a posh dinnerin a private booth overlooking topiaried gardens at the17th century Relais & Chateaux property Le Vieux Logiswas unforgettable.RIVERINE RESONANCEJust five kilometres away, the port village of Limeuilmarks the confluence of the Vezere and Dordogne rivers.Graceful willow trees were rendered a rich chartreuse bya setting sun and Café l’Ancre du Salut was busy servingpeople who’d come to this picturesque place. Duckingunder a stone arch, we followed a narrow pathway thatwound its way through a charming village to a panoramicgarden with spectacular river views.From the stone terrace of Les Fortous, the bells ofPaunat’s Romanesque abbey tolled eight and it was timeto cross the gravel square for dinner. For a thousandyears the abbey has been both an impregnableTRAVEL 3SIXTY˚91