St Johns

tigua. “I should almost hang myself at this infernal hole.” He chose
to spend most of his time aboard his 28-gun frigate HMS Boreas. As
disgusting as Nelson found Antigua, the British merchants and traders
of the island together with those throughout England’s Caribbean
colonies found the young captain equally abhorrent. By following
official orders Nelson was cutting into their profits. Those orders were
for Nelson to enforce Parliament’s Act of Navigation. This law stated
England’s Caribbean ports could only trade with English ships. But
American merchant ships dominated Caribbean trade and America was
no longer an English colony. Captain Nelson may have done a great
deal for the maritime and military infrastructure of Antigua but British
merchants throughout the Caribbean wanted him arrested and thrown
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in the brig and sued for their loss of profits in American trade.
In 1834 African slaves in the British islands of the Caribbean were
freed. On Antigua, rather than instituting a workable transition, emancipation
took place virtually over night. In reality little changed. Most
of the former slaves had little economic choice but to continue to work
for their former masters under many of the same deplorable conditions.
As the price of sugar rose or fell over the centuries, the economy
of the island, as well as the merchants, planters and freed slaves alike,
experienced numerous difficulties.
On November 1, 1981 Antigua and Barbuda gained full independence
from The United Kingdom.
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naval history. It is amazing not only for the brick and mortar, but as
much for the centuries old graffiti. Names carved in wood or scratched
in stone representing a fleeting moment in the lives of so many young
sailors are still visible to this day.
During its day it was known as “His Majesty’s Antigua Naval Yard”.
Since restoration began in the 1950s it has been called “Nelson’s
Dockyard” in honor of the British sailor most famously associated
with English Harbour, the empire’s greatest naval hero; Admiral Lord
Viscount Horatio Nelson. Today, while accommodating the interests
of visitors (inns, cafes and shops) and needs of pleasure boats (repairs
and respite), the site has been respectfully restored. Some of the primary
buildings include:
The Naval Officers House (1855) is the location of the dockyard’s
museum. The museum tells the history of English Harbour and includes
a number of items once belonging to Vice Admiral Horatio
Nelson; a Captain during his time here in Antigua.
The Pillars (1797) are all which remain of the Boat House & Joiners
Loft. This is where England’s giant ships-of-the-line had their massive
sails repaired or replaced.
The Copper & Lumber Store (1789) was the workshop for the
craftsmen who applied the copper to the hulls of the ships and the
storage facility and workshop for carpenters responsible for the large
imported timber beams and planks.
The Cordage and Canvas Store housed the work areas, ropes and
raw materials used by the ships’ enormous propulsion systems - canvas
sails.
The Pitch and Tar Store (1788) was the location for preparation and
boiling the sealant for the ships’ hulls. It seems the base engineer’s
office may have been on the second floor of the building. If this is
accurate it adds credence to the fact that British sailors regarded their
time stationed in English Harbour as “punishment”.
The Seaman’s Gallery was where the sailors were fed while on shore.
The men most likely ate a stunningly monotonous diet of salt-beef
(corned beef), cheese (likely hard as a rock) and bread. Locally grown
fruit may have supplemented their otherwise bland diet.
Fort Berkeley and Shirley Heights are two fortifications built to
guard the harbor from French or Spanish attack.
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Betty’s Hope Plantation was the first large scale operation on
the island. A stone windmill has been fully restored. The small
museum in the former cotton storehouse relates the story of plantation
life during the British colonial period.
Local Cuisine and Drink Specialties As is common
throughout the many islands of the Caribbean the traditional cuisine of
Antigua is a combination of West Indian, French and West African. International
cuisine can be found in the Antigua’s many restaurants and
cafes. Dukuna is a dumpling made from a mixture of flour, sweet potatoes
and spices then steamed. Chicken Stew is often marinated with
chilies, lemon juice, garlic and vinegar then added to sautéed garlic,
thyme, coriander and onions. Vegetables, spicy Créole hot sauce and
water are added then covered and simmered. It is usually served on
a bed of white rice. Papayas Pie combines crushed fruit, egg whites,
flour and sugar, lime zest and juice and cinnamon. Conch Fritters are
a mixture of chopped conch meat, celery, cloves, garlic, eggs, onion,
green pepper, milk and flour rolled into bite size balls, deep fried then
splashed with your favorite hot sauce.
Rum has been produced in Antigua since the early 1800s. Distillers
say the rum now served is much different (this means better) from the
rum produced two centuries ago. Today English Harbour 5 Year Old
Antigua Rum is reputed to be one of the best in the Caribbean. It is
produced by The Antigua Rum Distillery, the only remaining distillery
on the island.
Shopping The main centers for shopping in St. Johns are the duty
free shopping areas of Heritage Quay and Redcliffe Quay.
Local Currency The official currency on Antigua is the East
Caribbean dollar. U.S. dollars and major credit cards are widely accepted.
Post Office AND TELEPHONE FACILITIES There is a Post
office at the end of Long Street in St Johns, opposite the supermarket.
There is also a Post Office in Nelson’s Dockyard.
Dial the following access numbers to use a personal calling card from
a public phone:
AT&T: 1.800.225.5288
MCI: 1.800.888.8000
Tourist Information There is a Tourist Office and Bank in
Nelson’s Dockyard.
Transportation Rental cars are available and taxis are plentiful.
Determine a fare prior to departure.
Language English is the official language of Antigua.
ANTIGUA PLACEs of Interest
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St Johns is the capital of Antigua. It has numerous shops and
restaurants. The Museum of Antigua & Barbuda is located in the
city. Fortifications in the surrounding area include: Fort James, Fort
Barrington, Fort George, Fort Shirley and Fort Charles.
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English Harbour was homeport for Britain’s Squadron of the
Leeward Islands during the 18th and 19th centuries. Great ships
of the Royal Navy called here for refitting and repair as they battled
with the French and Spanish for dominance in the Caribbean. Many of
PLACES OF INTEREST
the highly skilled craftsmen were African slaves. Their British counterparts;
the caulkers, blacksmiths, shipwrights and sail makers were,
like most of the young sailors themselves, also pressed into service
for the Royal Navy. For the British sailors and officers, assignment to
this base was extremely demanding. Disease and death at an early age
was common.
When the Royal Navy eventually pulled out of English Harbour in the
late 1800s the entire facility slowly deteriorated due to storms, quakes,
neglect and the ravages of time. This is an amazing site of British
Shore Excursions To make the most of your visit to St. Johns
and the surrounding area we suggest you take one of our organized
Shore Excursions. For information concerning tour content and pricing,
consult your Shore Excursion Brochure or contact the Shore Excursion
Desk. When going ashore, be advised to take only necessary
items and secure any valuables onboard.
Local Customs
Bargaining: Prices are generally fixed.
Tipping: Some restaurants may add a 10-15% service charge. The
same percentage is appropriate for taxis.