Geodyssey Trinidad and Tobago brochure for web use

Guyana
Guyana
For many years a luckless country left to one
side by the rest of the world, Guyana’s littleknown
interior is starting to attract intrepid
travellers and those in search of wildlife.
One of the least visited destinations in South America, Guyana is in many ways a complete
contrast from Trinidad & Tobago. Just a short flight from Port of Spain it can be efficiently
added on to your time on the islands, or visited on its own. Be prepared for some surprises if
you break the mould, accept the challenges, and head into its untamed interior.
The same size as Britain, Guyana has a population of less than 750,000, most living in Georgetown
or along the coast. The interior is empty but for a few Amerindian communities and ranchers on the
savanna lands. Guyana’s infrastructure is very poor, with just one road, mostly unpaved, serving the
length of the country. Flying in a small aircraft, bumping along in a 4WD or travelling by river are the
only options for getting about. With few exceptions, the level of accommodation is at best rustic and at
worst very basic. The difficulties of travelling in the interior mean that costs can be high.
Georgetown
Guyana’s capital lies at the mouth of the Demerara River on the Atlantic. The sea here does not have
much to recommend it, with mud flats along much of the shore. Many of the city’s buildings are
wooden, with bags of character in a shambolic sort of way. The cathedral, built in 1842, is the largest
wooden structure in the world and well worth stopping to see. A handful of lodges on or around the
Demerara are within reach of Georgetown, including the venerable Shanklands, a reminder of former
glories. Otherwise there is not much to do except head into the interior.
Kaieteur Falls
The tallest single drop curtain falls in the world. Kaieteur flows over a sandstone ledge into a deep
gorge–a drop of 822ft or 5 times the height of Niagara. It’s a deafening and awe-inspiring sight that
alone is worth the journey to Guyana. To see such a majestic sight in almost totally natural surroundings
without barriers, handrails, gift shops or parking lots is truly remarkable in the 21st century.
Orinduik Falls
At the other end of the scale, lovely Orinduik Falls on the Ireng River on the border with Brazil, tumbles
over steps and terraces of solid jasper, a semi-precious stone.
Central Rainforests
In the heart of Guyana, isolated and mostly undisturbed by civilisation, stand the great rainforests of
the Iwokrama and Pakaraima ranges. At Iwokrama Field Station, on the banks of the Essequibo River, you
stay alongside conservationists and biologists in thatched timber cabins with private bathrooms. There
are forest trails with good chances of seeing wildlife, with jaguar a speciality. 1 in 3 visitors see these
awesome jungle predators at dusk or dawn on roads around the lodge.
At Atta Rainforest Camp, an hour further south, is the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, a series of suspended
walkways and decks giving views into the mid and upper canopy of the forest–excellent for
birdwatchers. You can stay here in a simple lodge with private bathrooms: a project established by the
Macushi community at Surama, a short drive away.
Surama itself lies in an area of natural savanna ringed by forest-covered mountains. Sydney, their gentle
leader, is an inspirational man with the eco-tourism bug. The community has established a camp of
simple wooden huts with private facilities for guests. It is a base for night walks and daytime canoe
floats on the river, with the chance of seeing giant river otter, tapir, and spider monkey.
Continuing south is Rock View Lodge, the most comfortable place to stay in the interior. There’s an
airstrip, a bus stop, and a welcoming swimming pool. The lodge is the life’s work of Colin Edwards, an
Englishman who, with Sydney, has done much to bring eco-tourism to these parts. His place is a delight,
with many children running about, al fresco dining under a mango tree, good horses and a friendly tapir.
Rupununi savannas
Two ranches in the Rupununi savannas, where cattle are still worked by cowboys riding barefoot in
the stirrup, have opened their doors to visitors. Karanambu has attained worldwide recognition for
its rehabilitation of injured and orphaned giant river otters, led by the gracious and inspiring Diane
McTurk. Today’s generation, Edward and Melanie McTurk, are accomplished naturalists and great hosts.
Otters are frequently seen in the wild, and the gallery forests of the Rupununi River are rich in birds and
wildlife. Behind them, the savanna is home to giant anteater, commonly seen by the guests. Another
speciality is a late afternoon wildlife trip on the river ending on a quiet lagoon to watch the flowers of
the giant Victoria Amazonica lily open as the sun is setting.
Beyond Lethem is Dadanawa, once the world’s largest ranch and of the Defreitas family. These larger than
life characters are modern-day pioneers who regularly make expeditions into unknown territory. You
certainly do not come here for luxury, but it’s an amazing location and they do make a mean rum punch.
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GEODYSSEY | GUYANA www.geodyssey.co.uk/guyana 020 7281 7788