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Birding in<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong><br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

DISCOVER the<br />

island's rich<br />

history, culture<br />

and amazing<br />

landscapes<br />

INSIDE:<br />

BRILLIANT BIRDING<br />

HOTSPOTS IN<br />

LOCATIONS ALL<br />

THE FAMILY WILL<br />

ENJOY!<br />

Panu Ruangjan / Alamy<br />

FEATURING: Albufera Son Real S’Albufereta Tramuntana<br />

MUST SEE BIRDS & WHERE TO FIND THEM<br />

8Cirl Bunting Blue Rock Thrush Eleonora’s Falcon<br />

Hoopoe Black Vulture Black-winged Stilt<br />

Balearic Warbler Stone-curlew


BIRDING IN<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong><br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

WELCOME<br />

FOR A BIRDER with a family,<br />

North Mallorca has it all – great<br />

birds, including near-endemics,<br />

rare raptors, colourful resident birds,<br />

and passage migrants. Plus, there’s<br />

affordable accommodation, cheap<br />

flights plus great beaches and<br />

glorious weather!<br />

10 MUSTS WHEN VISITING<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong> <strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

SAMPLE THE LOCAL WINE The reserve at Mortitx is set amid<br />

1 vineyards – take a tour of one to refresh yourself after birding<br />

TRY THE LOCAL CUISINE Mallorca’s great restaurants include<br />

2 El Jardin, in Alcudia – it’s very popular, though, so book early<br />

VISIT LLUC MONASTERY The most important pilgrimage<br />

3 site on Mallorca, in the Tramuntana – also great for birds<br />

RIDE THE FERROCARRIL DE SOLLER This narrow-gauge<br />

4 railway runs from Palma to Soller, near the north-west coast<br />

SEE A BLACK VULTURE Mallorca has the only European<br />

5 island population of this immense raptor<br />

SEE ALCUDIA’S OLD TOWN This, Mallorca’s historic capital,<br />

6 contains Roman and medieval remains, markets and shops<br />

VISIT AN ISLAND Dragonera and Cabrera are great for<br />

7 migrants passing through – take a closer look<br />

FIND A WOODCHAT SHRIKE The badius subspecies of this<br />

8 smart little predator is found around orchards and parkland<br />

TAKE A BOAT TRIP This is the best way to see Eleonora’s<br />

9 Falcon colonies, on Dragonera, Cabrera, or at Cap de Formentor<br />

VISIT DEIA This pretty, unspoiled village was once the home<br />

10 of the writer Robert Graves, and boasts great views<br />

Albufera nature trail<br />

Son Real ancient ruins<br />

S’Albufereta nature reserve<br />

BRILLIANT<br />

Golden Oriole<br />

BIRDING<br />

Sightings of the Balearic Warbler and other great birds could reward a visit to this reserve<br />

SON REAL<br />

This might be Mallorca’s ‘rising star’ where<br />

reserves are concerned, a mixture of arable<br />

farmland, heather and rosemary heath, woodland,<br />

and undeveloped coastline that has already<br />

recorded great birds, but also has the potential for<br />

many more to be discovered, as more and more<br />

birders use it.<br />

Situated south of C’an Picafort, just off the road<br />

to Arta, it is well-known as a site for warblers,<br />

with Sardinian and Dartford Warblers, both to be<br />

found in the scrubby areas close to the coast.<br />

Their close relative, the Balearic Warbler, is the<br />

real prize, though, and although they can be very<br />

shy and skulking, especially as the summer wears<br />

on, good numbers are present, with the area<br />

around the viewing tower particularly productive.<br />

Getting familiar with their song and calls is a<br />

must to give yourself the best chance of finding<br />

them, and they’ve been known to respond well to<br />

‘pishing’. Audouin’s Gull is another target here,<br />

along the shore, where small numbers of Kentish<br />

Plovers can also be found in spring and summer.<br />

The resident species include Stone-curlew,<br />

Thekla Lark and Hoopoe in the arable land,<br />

supplemented by Woodchat Shrike, Spotted<br />

Flycatcher, Wheatears, pipits (including Tawny)<br />

and a variety of passage migrants in spring, while<br />

in winter finch flocks arrive (and keep an eye out<br />

for Hawfinches), along with Song Thrushes.<br />

Above all, this is a rewarding but easy site to<br />

birdwatch at, close to the resort of C’an Picafort.<br />

The paths are accessible and over easy terrain,<br />

and you can get satisfyingly close to the target<br />

species. An early start is a good idea, as the beach<br />

in particular can get busy later in the day.<br />

WORDS: ANDY SIMPSON<br />

on your doorstep<br />

GETTING THERE<br />

The 445/446 bus services run past the reserve, but<br />

it is also within easy walking or cycling reach of<br />

C’an Picafort itself. There is a car park on site, at<br />

the visitor centre and toilets.<br />

VITAL INFORMATION<br />

Opening times are: April-September, 10am-7pm;<br />

October-March: 10am-5pm; reception is open from<br />

10am-4pm; exhibitions open from 10am-5pm<br />

Tel: +34 971 185 363<br />

websites: enjoymallorca.com/alcudia<br />

mallorcabirdwatching.com/sonreal<br />

email: sonreal@balears-sostenible.com<br />

é MED SPECIALIST<br />

Audouin’s Gull is a beautiful bird,<br />

largely restricted to the<br />

Mediterranean and especially<br />

its islands<br />

ê GREAT VIEWS<br />

You’ll be able to spot many<br />

beautiful birds from the<br />

viewing platform<br />

Alamy<br />

WHY NOT<br />

ALSO TRY<br />

Son Real has a preserved<br />

traditional Mallorcan farmhouse,<br />

containing exhibitions on the<br />

history and culture of the island<br />

– make sure you make a visit<br />

while you’re there<br />

2 Birding in North Mallorca


BIRDING IN<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong><br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

S’ALBUFERETA<br />

Extending either side of the coast road, this<br />

reserve includes a beach area, on which both<br />

Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers breed, and<br />

a much larger area of lagoons (both fresh and<br />

saltwater), plus scrub and pine woodland.<br />

Black-winged Stilts are among the breeding<br />

birds on the lagoons, along with Purple Gallinule,<br />

while the hirundines and swifts that are<br />

numerous here attract the attentions of Eleonora’s<br />

Falcons, particularly early in the day. Cetti’s<br />

Warblers breed, and the saline lakes have even<br />

recorded Greater Flamingo.<br />

It’s a particularly good site to search during<br />

migration periods, with a wide range of passerines<br />

possible, including those Blue-headed Wagtails<br />

(Yellow Wagtails of the flava race) again, other<br />

Yellow Wagtails, Redstarts, both Spotted and Pied<br />

Flycatchers, Nightingales and both Moustached<br />

and Subalpine Warblers.<br />

Honey Buzzards and Montagu’s Harriers<br />

pass through on migration, and Redfooted<br />

Falcon has also been recorded<br />

here. The fields and orchards, and any<br />

overhead power or telephone lines, are<br />

worth checking for the likes of<br />

Bee-eater, Serin, Woodchat Shrike,<br />

Crossbill, Corn Bunting, Hoopoe,<br />

Golden Oriole and Whinchat.<br />

GETTING THERE<br />

From Puerto Pollensa or Alcudia, catch<br />

one of the TIB buses (352/353 ) which run<br />

frequently between Puerto Pollensa and<br />

Can Piquafort. The stop is a short walk from<br />

the reserve, outside the kite and surf shop.<br />

VITAL INFORMATION<br />

Access is available at all times, but be careful to<br />

respect private property, as the reserve includes<br />

a number of farms and other buildings.<br />

ê ALBUFERA<br />

This viewing screen allows<br />

to get as close as<br />

possible to the birds<br />

WHY NOT<br />

ALSO TRY<br />

Birdwatching the reserve by<br />

bike can bring great results –<br />

although smaller than Albufera,<br />

it’s still large enough, so it’s a<br />

great way of getting around<br />

quickly without<br />

disturbing birds<br />

WHY NOT<br />

ALSO TRY<br />

Albufera can get very<br />

busy, with a consequent<br />

disturbance to the birds, so try<br />

to visit as early or late in the<br />

day as possible<br />

éé WOODCHAT<br />

Mallorca’s Woodchat Shrike are of<br />

the Balearic subspecies, badius<br />

é WARM WELCOME<br />

The visitors’ centre offers much for<br />

the birdwatcher, including trails<br />

ê SQUACCO HERON<br />

Arguably Europe’s most beautiful<br />

heron, the Squacco is a delight<br />

ALBUFERA<br />

Let’s start with the one Mallorcan reserve<br />

that you’ve probably already heard of – Parc<br />

Natural s’Albufera, to give it its full name.<br />

Situated just south of Alcudia, it’s the<br />

island’s largest wetland reserve, and<br />

probably the largest on any Mediterranean<br />

island. There’s a visitor centre with toilets,<br />

marked trails for birders, cyclists and<br />

walkers, and several hides, making it<br />

particularly user-friendly for birdwatchers<br />

with families in tow, or anyone dropping in for<br />

a day’s birding as part of a more general holiday.<br />

The habitats include saltmarsh, reedbeds,<br />

freshwater lagoons and pools, plus conifer<br />

woodland and tamarisk groves, and these bring<br />

the corresponding variety of species that you’d<br />

expect.<br />

In spring and autumn, a wide range of waders<br />

pass through, and it’s also a good place to look for<br />

herons, with Purple, Night and Squacco all<br />

present. Woodchat Shrikes (of the western<br />

Mediterranean badius race) perch atop bushes and<br />

scrub on the lookout for prey, while common<br />

warblers include Moustached and Cetti’s.<br />

Nightingales should also be heard in spring and<br />

summer, and check every Yellow Wagtail you see<br />

– the Blue-headed (flava) race is regular here.<br />

GETTING THERE<br />

If you’re staying in Puerto Pollensa or Alcudia,<br />

you can use the TIB buses (352/353) that run<br />

frequently between Puerto Pollensa and Can<br />

Piquafort. These stop at Playa Muro, just outside<br />

the reserve’s entrance. If you’re driving, there is a<br />

very small car park, but also parking in front of<br />

the supermarket across the road.<br />

VITAL INFORMATION<br />

Opening times are: 1 October – 31 March, from<br />

9am to 5pm; 1st April – 30th September, 9am-6pm.<br />

Tel: +34 971 892250 /<br />

Website: enjoymallorca.com/portdepollenca<br />

Email: parc.albufera@wanadoo.es<br />

Entrance: Free, but pick up a permit at the<br />

reception area.<br />

8<br />

BIRDS TO FIND<br />

in Mallorca<br />

Emberiza cirlus<br />

LENGTH: 6.25ins (16cm)<br />

WINGSPAN: 8.75-10.25ins (22-26cm)<br />

FOOD: Various seeds, almost all taken from the ground.<br />

Grasshoppers can be important in summer.<br />

BREEDING: Lays 3-4 eggs in a nest well hidden low in a<br />

bush or creeper.<br />

Orchards and vineyards are good places to look<br />

for this attractive bunting in its strongholds<br />

around the Mediterranean – it is particularly fond<br />

of sunlit slopes. It can crop up in urban and<br />

suburban areas, though, as long as its main<br />

habitat requirement – open country with some<br />

dense cover – is met. Its song, a short, metallic<br />

trill, lacks the longer end note of a<br />

Yellowhammer’s song, while the flight call is a<br />

short, high, soft ‘ssip’, often frustratingly<br />

difficult to place.<br />

IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />

The Albufera Reserve is a great place to find<br />

them, but the species is resident and widespread<br />

in the right habitat. The Arta Peninsula is a<br />

hotspot for them, mainly in arable fields, while<br />

the Cuber Reservoir is another good spot to find<br />

them. Finally, the Boquer Valley offers great<br />

opportunities – scan the tops of bushes and<br />

shrubs – they will often be perched on these<br />

(Stonechats are the other species that typically<br />

does this, here).<br />

WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />

Mainly a bird of southern Europe, although it<br />

breeds in northern France right up to the Channel<br />

coast. In the UK, coastal hedges and fields in<br />

south Devon (and a few Cornish sites) are the only<br />

place you’ll find it – numbers are low, although<br />

the RSPB has a project aimed at boosting them.<br />

Eight target species to discover in this birding paradise<br />

WORDS: MATT MERRITT<br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong> OFFERS opportunities<br />

to see near-endemic species, to<br />

get great views of birds hard to<br />

find elsewhere, and to get close<br />

up to some more familiar<br />

species. Here are eight species<br />

to look for on the island,<br />

elsewhere in the Mediterranean,<br />

and even closer to home…<br />

CIRL BUNTING<br />

DID YOU<br />

KNOW…<br />

It was first identified by the<br />

ornithologist George Montagu (of<br />

harrier fame) near the Devon town of<br />

Kingsbridge – still the bird’s UK<br />

stronghold, its range having<br />

expanded into southern<br />

England, before the recent<br />

range contraction<br />

Cavall Bernat<br />

ID POINTERS<br />

Male has distinctive black eyestripe and bib,<br />

yellow cheeks and green breast<br />

Female is less strongly marked, with flat crown,<br />

and striped face<br />

Males have olive rump (compare with<br />

Yellowhammer’s rusty rump), females duller<br />

Males have distinctive rusty brown area on<br />

wings and tertials<br />

Female has chestnut area on shoulders<br />

Larger-billed but shorter-tailed than<br />

the Yellowhammer<br />

Male Cirl Bunting<br />

MORE INFO<br />

For many more bird sites<br />

and bird information in the<br />

area you can visit<br />

mallorcabirdwatching.com<br />

4 Birding in North Mallorca<br />

birdwatching.co.uk 5


BIRDING IN<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong><br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

BLUE ROCK THRUSH<br />

Monticola solitarius<br />

LENGTH 8ins (20cm)<br />

WINGSPAN 14-15.5ins (35-40cm)<br />

FOOD: Insects and small lizards, plus a few berries.<br />

BREEDING: Lays 4-5 eggs in a nest made in a hole in a rock,<br />

wall, or building.<br />

If seen in silhouette, or at long distance, this gorgeous thrush<br />

can escape notice surprisingly easily. But check every thrush<br />

or Starling-sized bird in likely areas, because a closer look will<br />

reveal the beautiful blue tones that give it its name.<br />

Its song, sometimes delivered in a swooping songflight, but<br />

perhaps more often from a high, rocky perch, is similar to the<br />

Blackbird’s and the Mistle Thrush’s, but with simpler, and<br />

shorter, phrases. Calls include a high ‘peep’ and a harsher<br />

‘tchuk tchuk’.<br />

Male Blue Rock Thrush<br />

DID YOU<br />

KNOW…<br />

The Blue Rock Thrush is<br />

actually a chat, or<br />

Old World flycatcher, rather<br />

than a Turdus thrush.<br />

It is found across Europe and<br />

Asia, as far east as Japan and<br />

breeds in rock habitats<br />

ID POINTERS<br />

Male can appear black at distance – in good<br />

light, shows intense, smoky blue<br />

Female has bluish upperparts (fading to brown<br />

in autumn), but brown, barred underparts<br />

Long wings and tail, and strong, easy flight style<br />

Spends long periods stationary on sunlit<br />

boulders or cliff ledges<br />

Juveniles are similar to females in appearance<br />

Long, dark bill is distinctive<br />

IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />

This resident breeder lives in mountainous regions, so is best<br />

looked for at specific sites (if you want to avoid long walks or<br />

difficult climbs!).<br />

A few pairs can be found in the Boquer Valley, while the<br />

Formentor Peninsula is also a great place to look for them. The<br />

Parc Natural de Llevant, on the Arta Peninsula, is another likely<br />

spot for them. Nowhere are numbers high, but it is a relatively<br />

widespread bird, so check prominent rocky outcrops, cliffs and<br />

old buildings.<br />

WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />

In warm, rocky areas throughout southern Europe – its close<br />

relative, the Rock Thrush, is much more a bird of high meadows.<br />

Resident in many areas, while in others it disperses to warmer<br />

parts in winter.<br />

DID YOU<br />

KNOW…<br />

Recent research has shown that<br />

Eleonora’s Falcons even hold live<br />

prey captive, by plucking out the tail<br />

and flight feathers of the unfortunate<br />

birds before wedging them in stone<br />

crevices – this keeps the prey<br />

fresh for a day or two<br />

ELEONORA’S FALCON<br />

longer<br />

Falco eleonorae<br />

LENGTH 14-16.5ins (36-42cm)<br />

WINGSPAN 34-41ins (87-104cm)<br />

FOOD: Outside the breeding season, insects of all sorts, caught on the wing, plus a few<br />

beetles and grasshoppers taken on the ground. In the breeding season, smaller birds of all<br />

sorts, caught on the wing, often over the sea as they migrate.<br />

BREEDING: A colonial breeder, in groups of 20-200 pairs. Two or three eggs are laid by<br />

each, on a cliff ledge, and the young fly after 35-40 days.<br />

Rocky coasts are the place to look for one of Europe’s rarest raptors. Here they<br />

time their own breeding season for late summer and early autumn, so that<br />

they can feed their young on the glut of prey provided by exhausted and often<br />

inexperienced small passerine migrants. Several can sometimes be seen<br />

hunting together (although not co-operatively, as such).<br />

They fly into the wind, looking for incoming prey, before making the kill<br />

with a sharp stoop. Dawn is a particularly good time to look for them, as they<br />

target night-flying migrants.<br />

IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />

Arriving late in April, and staying until early November, there are several<br />

hundred pairs breeding on Mallorca. Most are on the west coast, and there<br />

are large colonies on Cabrera, Dragonera, Cap Formentor and Cala Sant<br />

Vincenc – check these from August onwards. Prior to the breeding season,<br />

look for it hawking for insects at Albufera Reserve or over nearby open forest<br />

areas and at Son Bosc. Boat trips are available to help you get the best views<br />

of these sites, and could also bring the added bonus of a Balearic Shearwater.<br />

This superb raptor can also be seen in the Boquer Valley and at Cases Velles,<br />

while there are also opportunities to stop on the road between Puerto<br />

Pollensa and Cap Formentor.<br />

WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />

Outside the Balearics, not in many places at all! The Canary Islands, Sardinia<br />

and islands off Italy, islands in the Adriatic and Aegean, and on Cyprus. In<br />

late autumn, they migrate to the Red Sea, then Madagascar.<br />

Eleonora’s Falcon<br />

ID POINTERS<br />

Rakish, Hobby-like silhouette, but is considerably<br />

larger than the commoner raptor<br />

Adults have striking white neck patch and<br />

dark moustache<br />

Underparts are a rusty buff colour<br />

Longer-winged and tailed than Peregrine<br />

and Hobby<br />

Flight is acrobatic and dashing, and<br />

shows frequent changes of speed<br />

Dark-morph birds (all sooty brown<br />

and black) occur, too<br />

Dragonera<br />

KLAUS BJERRE/Nature Photographers Ltd<br />

Casa at Boquer<br />

MORE INFO<br />

To find places to eat and<br />

stay next to a beautiful cala<br />

visit enjoymallorca.com/<br />

CalaSantVicenc<br />

MORE INFO<br />

Take a boat trip to see<br />

these falcons on the island<br />

of Cabrera.<br />

Visit enjoymallorca.com/<br />

cabrera<br />

KLAUS BJERRE/Nature Photographers Ltd<br />

6 Birding in North Mallorca<br />

birdwatching.co.uk 7


BIRDING IN<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong><br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

Hoopoe<br />

Puig Nassi i Son Poc<br />

MORE INFO<br />

Visit the centre for bird<br />

tourism at La Gola<br />

EnjoyMallorca.com/<br />

HOOPOE<br />

birdwatching from the<br />

north of Mallorca<br />

Upupa epops<br />

LENGTH 10.25-11ins (26-28cm)<br />

WINGSPAN 17.5-19ins (44-48cm)<br />

FOOD: Insects including beetles, caterpillars and grubs,<br />

small frogs and lizards.<br />

BREEDING: Nests in holes in trees and walls, laying 7-8<br />

eggs in May and June.<br />

Both the English and the scientific name of this<br />

species are onomatopoeic, imitating the soft, but<br />

resonant ‘poo poo poo’ call, often delivered from a<br />

bare branch in a tree, or from a rooftop or similar<br />

perch. For what is, on the face of it, a highly<br />

distinctive bird, they can be surprisingly difficult<br />

to spot on the ground, especially as they’re often<br />

seen under trees, in dappled sunlight.<br />

They’re fond of sunbathing (and also dust and<br />

sand baths), so once you have first seen them,<br />

there can be great opportunities to observe them<br />

at length.<br />

IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />

Hoopoes are resident breeders on the island, and<br />

are abundant in most parts, especially scrubby<br />

areas and parkland. In Puerto Pollensa it can be<br />

found in the farmland at the bottom of the Boquer<br />

Valley, and also at the side of the road next to the<br />

Pine Walk.<br />

WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />

Most of mainland Europe, except for the highest<br />

areas. In Britain, up to 100 birds turn up every<br />

year, usually during spring migration, and usually<br />

in the south, although it can be found in any<br />

suitable habitat – this can include gardens,<br />

especially, historically, vicars’ gardens!<br />

BLACK VULTURE<br />

Aegypius monachus<br />

LENGTH 39-43ins (100-110cm)<br />

WINGSPAN up to 9ft (2.8m)<br />

FOOD: Carrion of all sorts – at carcasses, they can even<br />

dominate Griffon Vultures and take the choice parts.<br />

BREEDING: Makes a bulky nest of sticks in a tree and<br />

(very rarely) on cliffs. A single egg is laid.<br />

Unlike most Old World vultures, which breed in colonies, Black Vultures<br />

do so only in looser groups, and are also less likely to be sociable away<br />

from the nest. Although in some areas they occur alongside the Griffon<br />

Vulture, with which they can be confused at distance, they are far less of<br />

a bird of the mountains than the commoner species.<br />

They are the dominant raptors throughout their range, even bullying<br />

other large vultures and eagles at kills, and on rare occasions may even<br />

take live prey.<br />

IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />

Mallorca’s most important and sought-after breeding bird is only found in<br />

the Serra de Tramuntana. Nearly extinct on the island in the early 1980s, a<br />

conservation project was started in 1983, with the help of the regional<br />

government of the Balearic Islands. The first breeding success was in<br />

1986, and there are now more than 130 birds, after a record breeding year<br />

in 2014. They nest in the north of the Tramuntana Mountains, but also<br />

feed in places around the Boquer Valley. The best sites to look for them<br />

are at Mortitx, the monastery at Lluc (where there’s a visitor centre for the<br />

Tramuntana), the Cuber Reservoir, and Castell Del Rei, on the Ternelles<br />

estate, near Pollença.<br />

WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />

Small numbers in the Balkans and Asia<br />

Minor, and also found in the<br />

Extremadura region of mainland<br />

Spain, but otherwise you would be<br />

best to travel to central Asia.<br />

ID POINTERS<br />

Always appears dark – even the wings show only<br />

very subtle contrasts<br />

Largest of its family in Europe, although some<br />

overlap with larger individual Griffon Vultures<br />

Found mainly in hilly, wooded or partiallywooded<br />

areas<br />

Soars in wide circles on flat wings<br />

(Griffon Vultures soar on raised wings)<br />

Perches more horizontally and less upright than<br />

Griffon Vultures<br />

Almost silent, but display flights include pairs<br />

tumbling with feet interlocked<br />

Black Vulture<br />

Boquer<br />

WILDLIFE GmbH / Alamy<br />

MORE INFO<br />

Learn more at<br />

enjoymallorca.com/<br />

theserrade<br />

tramuntanamountains<br />

ID POINTERS<br />

Mistle Thrush sized, with a large crest<br />

Orange-red head and breast and black-and-white wings unlike any other species<br />

Crest raised when excited, in flight (on occasion), and immediately after bird lands<br />

Flight is erratic, bounding, and almost butterfly-like<br />

Bill long, slightly downcurved<br />

Spends a lot of time on ground, shuffling along after prey<br />

DID YOU<br />

KNOW…<br />

Hoopoes have particularly<br />

strong head muscles, which<br />

allow them to open their bill<br />

while they’re probing into the earth<br />

– this adaptation is particularly<br />

valuable given they live in<br />

fairly dry areas<br />

DID YOU<br />

KNOW…<br />

Black Vultures are also known<br />

as Monk Vultures (a reference<br />

to their bald head and ruff of<br />

neck feathers), or Cinereous<br />

Vultures, often to avoid confusion<br />

with the North American<br />

Black Vulture<br />

PAUL STERRY/Nature Photographers<br />

8 Birding in North Mallorca<br />

birdwatching.co.uk 9


BIRDING IN<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong><br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

MORE INFO<br />

Learn more about where<br />

to visit and what to see<br />

in Alcudia by visiting<br />

enjoymallorca.com/alcudia<br />

DID YOU<br />

KNOW…<br />

The Balearic Warbler is closely<br />

related to Marmora’s Warbler,<br />

another island species found mainly<br />

in Corsica and Sardinia<br />

Son Real hide<br />

Son Real<br />

Son Real<br />

Black-winged Stilt<br />

BLACK-WINGED STILT<br />

Himantopus himantopus<br />

LENGTH 14-15.5ins (35-40cm)<br />

WINGSPAN 27.5ins (70cm)<br />

FOOD: Small aquatic invertebrates, taken from both salt and fresh water.<br />

BREEDING: Nests in a scrape on mud next to water – typically raises four chicks, which<br />

fly at 30 days.<br />

It’s pretty hard to confuse a Black-winged Stilt with anything else, even at<br />

long range. If the pied plumage isn’t enough of a giveaway, then the<br />

extraordinarily long legs, in relation to its overall size, will clinch the<br />

identification. It’s generally found in coastal habitats, although it will use<br />

freshwater lagoons just inland as well as saltwater and brackish pools.<br />

Calls include a ‘kek’ that sounds rather like a Coot, and harsher, more<br />

varied calls, not unlike terns’ calls.<br />

Most migrate south to Africa in the winter, but a few remain close to their<br />

Mediterranean breeding grounds.<br />

IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />

The saltpans at Albufera are undoubtedly the best<br />

spot for good, extended views of this<br />

extraordinary bird, but, as is the case for many<br />

waders, it depends on food availability and<br />

weather conditions.<br />

WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />

Widespread but relatively thinly scattered in<br />

southern Europe and parts of western and<br />

northern France. Small numbers turn up in<br />

Britain each year, with several recent<br />

successful nesting attempts in Kent and<br />

Sussex, perhaps heralding a colonisation.<br />

DID YOU<br />

KNOW…<br />

There are up to seven<br />

subspecies of Black-winged Stilt,<br />

including the Hawaiian Stilt, the<br />

archipelago’s only breeding wader.<br />

Some authorities recognise some<br />

of these subspecies as up to five<br />

distinct full species<br />

ID POINTERS<br />

Long straight bill, unlike Avocet’s upturned bill<br />

Some black on head in summer, whiter in winter<br />

Black (actually green-black) wings, white elsewhere,<br />

with long white V up back<br />

Slender, elegant build<br />

Often wades belly-deep in search of food<br />

Very long, bright red-pink legs<br />

Albufera Salt Marsh<br />

Ian Butler Bird / Alamy<br />

BALEARIC WARBLER<br />

Sylvia balearica<br />

LENGTH 5-5.5ins (13-14cm)<br />

WINGSPAN 9.25-11.75ins (25-30cm)<br />

FOOD: Small insects and spiders, taken from foliage close<br />

to the ground.<br />

BREEDING: Makes a nest of moss and grass, deep in a<br />

small bush – typically lays five eggs.<br />

This is the Balearic Islands’ only endemic full<br />

species, a close relative of the Marmora’s Warbler<br />

and the Dartford Warbler, which has actually<br />

supplanted it on the smaller island of Menorca.<br />

Mallorca, then, is the best place to find this<br />

attractive little bird. As with most members of this<br />

family, sound can be the key to finding it. Its song<br />

is a rather grating warble, while its call is a nasal,<br />

slightly wheezy ‘tsrek’.<br />

Coastal scrub is a preferred habitat for this bird,<br />

but they can also be found in sparsely vegetated<br />

rocky, scrubby areas. Wherever you hope to find<br />

them, though, you need to be on the lookout for an<br />

all-grey version of the slightly more familiar<br />

Dartford Warbler.<br />

IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />

A resident breeding species, it can be abundant in<br />

the right habitat. Hotspots where you’re likely to<br />

see them include Son Real, just south of C’an<br />

Picafort on the Alcudia to Arta road. The Arta<br />

Peninsula is also worth checking out thoroughly<br />

– wherever you look, you need patience.<br />

WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />

Found only in the Balearic Islands, and in Menorca<br />

it has been ousted by the Dartford Warbler.<br />

MORE INFO<br />

Learn about and<br />

experience the culture of<br />

Mallorca and its many<br />

museums and churches<br />

at enjoymallorca.com<br />

ID POINTERS<br />

Pale grey underneath, and darker, blue-grey above<br />

Male has pale throat patch, often conspicuous<br />

Orange bill, orange-brown legs, and red eye ring<br />

Long tail and relatively slight build<br />

Peaked crown, like most Sylvia warblers<br />

Very skulking habits – usually hides deep in bushes<br />

and scrub<br />

Balearic Warbler<br />

age fotostock / Alamy<br />

10 Birding in North Mallorca<br />

birdwatching.co.uk 11


BIRDING IN<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong><br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

Stone-curlew<br />

ROGER TIDMAN/Nature Photographers Ltd<br />

MORE INFO<br />

You can see some some of<br />

the spectacular scenery this<br />

lovely island has to offer at<br />

enjoymallorca.com/<br />

stunningviews<br />

STONE-CURLEW<br />

Burhinus oedicnemus<br />

LENGTH 15-17ins (40-44cm)<br />

WINGSPAN 31-33ins (77-85cm)<br />

FOOD: Large insects, picked from the ground, plus a few<br />

small invertebrates, reptiles and amphibians.<br />

BREEDING: Nests in a shallow scoop in the soil; two<br />

chicks fly when 36-42 days old.<br />

DID YOU<br />

KNOW…<br />

The name thick-knee<br />

comes from an 18th Century<br />

name for the bird – Thick-kneed<br />

Bustard. In southern Africa,<br />

stone-curlew species were<br />

also known by another<br />

name, dikkops<br />

Found on dry farmland, heaths and grassland, this strange-looking, stocky<br />

wader is a member of the thick-knee family, which all share its goggle-eyed<br />

appearance. In daylight, it will often crouch or stand under trees or other<br />

cover, becoming more active around dawn and dusk. Its wailing, whistling<br />

calls can resemble those of the Curlew and the Oystercatcher, and it is often<br />

heard before it’s seen.<br />

IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />

Son Real, a nature reserve with a visitor centre and bird hide just south of<br />

Alcudia – this site is also great for a variety of warblers, plus Crossbills and<br />

Cirl Buntings. A resident breeding species, it is relatively common in dry<br />

arable areas on the island, but can also be found at wetland sites such as<br />

Albufera and s’Albufereta Natural Park. Keep an eye out in any areas of dry<br />

arable land – scan fields carefully as Stone-curlews can be astonishingly well<br />

camouflaged against the earth.<br />

WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />

Mainly a bird of southern Europe and the Near East, with birds from further<br />

north wintering near the Mediterranean and in Africa. In Britain, small<br />

numbers (350 pairs)<br />

breed in East Anglia<br />

(especially the ID POINTERS<br />

Breckland), and on<br />

Salisbury Plain.<br />

Large yellow eye and yellow on bill visible even at fairly long range<br />

Conservation efforts have<br />

resulted in a small<br />

White belly, streaked upperparts<br />

increase in the<br />

population, but it remains Broad white stripe from forehead, passes under eye<br />

rare. It is a summer<br />

visitor in the UK, from White band across closed wing<br />

March to October. Head<br />

for Weeting Heath in In flight, long wings with black trailing edge, and white spots near tip<br />

Norfolk where the<br />

Norfolk Wildlife Trust Steady, regular walk, but tilts forward when running<br />

has viewing facilities.<br />

Son Real<br />

s’Albufereta Natural Park<br />

s’Albufereta Natural Park<br />

SERRA DE<br />

TRAMUNTANA<br />

AND THE <strong>NORTH</strong> COAST<br />

The north coast of Mallorca offers some of the best birding you will enjoy on the island<br />

THE TRAMUNTANA STRETCHES along<br />

the north coast of Mallorca, a range of<br />

limestone mountains reaching 4,700<br />

feet (1,432m) at their highest point.<br />

They’re a world away from the beach<br />

resort image of Mallorca that you might have, and<br />

they form a vast, unspoiled area – the largest<br />

natural park on the island – in which you can<br />

make your own birdwatching discoveries, as well<br />

as exploring the island’s historical, cultural and<br />

scenic riches. Their height, steepness and relative<br />

remoteness makes them a refuge for some of<br />

Mallorca’s most internationally important and<br />

iconic species, including the Black Vulture.<br />

CAP DE<br />

FORMENTOR<br />

This is an easy spot to visit if you’re staying<br />

in Alcudia, Puerto Pollensa, or the old town<br />

of Pollença. Its rocky landscape makes it<br />

home to mountain birds such as Blue Rock<br />

Thrush, Balearic Warbler and Booted Eagle,<br />

and it’s also a great vantage point for<br />

seawatching, with Balearic and Cory’s<br />

Shearwaters passing by.<br />

From early summer onwards, though,<br />

the species that most birders want to see here<br />

WORDS: ANDY SIMPSON<br />

Life on white / Alamy<br />

is Eleonora’s Falcon. A large colony nests on the<br />

cliffs below the lighthouse in late summer, and<br />

while they can be seen from above, the most<br />

spectacular views can be had from a boat trip. The<br />

tower at Albercutx, a little further down the coast,<br />

is another fine viewpoint for these birds, as well as<br />

other raptors such as Honey Buzzards migrating<br />

through the island in spring and autumn.<br />

BOQUER VALLEY<br />

Right on the edge of Puerto Pollensa, the Boquer<br />

Valley is often a very good spot to find newlyarrived<br />

migrants. The car park is just off the<br />

roundabout on the road to Formentor, and to the<br />

left of the path leading from the car park are olive<br />

groves and an almond orchard frequently visited<br />

by Redstarts, flycatchers and a variety of warblers,<br />

especially during migration. Further on, near the<br />

pines on the left, look for Cirl Buntings and<br />

Wrynecks. Next are gates to a private estate<br />

– access is allowed, but do not linger on the<br />

private property. Beyond them, follow testing<br />

but not difficult mountain paths towards<br />

the sea, keeping an eye out for Booted<br />

Eagles, Black and Griffon Vultures,<br />

Peregrines and Ravens, while Blue Rock<br />

Thrushes use the many prominent<br />

ledges and boulders as perches.<br />

éé BIRDS<br />

Above: Booted Eagle,<br />

Below: Black Vulture<br />

é A WORLD APART<br />

The scenery of the north is quite<br />

different from the beach resort<br />

image many have of Mallorca<br />

ê FORMETNOR<br />

Viewing tower at the spectacular<br />

Cap de Formentor<br />

Juanvi Carrasco / Alamy<br />

12 Birding in North Mallorca<br />

birdwatching.co.uk 13


BIRDING IN<br />

<strong>NORTH</strong><br />

<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />

Eleonora’s Falcon is a possibility here, too, as well<br />

as the likes of Golden Oriole in summer. You can<br />

easily bird most of the valley in around three<br />

hours, walking at an easy pace.<br />

TERNELLES<br />

VALLEY<br />

On the road to Soller, just outside Pollença, this<br />

reserve is made up of a mountain pathway giving<br />

access to sea cliffs and the Castell Del Rei.<br />

It’s an excellent area to watch during migration<br />

periods, with Montagu’s Harrier, Hobby, Honey<br />

Buzzard and migrating birds including Montagu’s<br />

Harrier, Hobby and Honey Buzzard all passing<br />

through, while Pallid Swift, Crag Martin, Balearic<br />

Warbler and Sardinian Warbler should also be<br />

among your targets.<br />

In winter, Raven, Firecrest, Brambling and<br />

Hawfinch are all possible here. Access is by permit<br />

only, available from the tourist office in Pollença,<br />

and there are no facilities – the paths are also<br />

harder than some, so take appropriate clothing<br />

and plenty of water.<br />

MORTITX<br />

This reserve, south of Pollença, sits among<br />

vineyards – there’s a wide and easy public<br />

footpath to the reserve, through woodland, with<br />

good views of the mountains throughout, and a<br />

detailed map at the entrance to the reserve proper.<br />

All those Mallorca montane specials – Black<br />

Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Booted Eagle and Blue<br />

Rock Thrush – are present, and in summer, it’s<br />

a good site at which to find Wrynecks.<br />

The path leads to the Ses Basses viewpoint,<br />

looking out over steep sea cliffs, allowing you to<br />

do some seawatching, while at all times you<br />

should be on the lookout for the recently<br />

reintroduced Bonelli’s Eagle – please report any<br />

sightings of these.<br />

LLUC MONASTERY<br />

Heading along the road from Pollença to Soller,<br />

look for the sign to this historic site, which is the<br />

main centre for starting walking or birding tours<br />

of the mountains. There’s a bar, an excellent<br />

restaurant, and tourist accommodation available<br />

All those Mallorca montane specials, Black Vulture,<br />

in the former monks’ cells.<br />

Firecrests and Wrynecks are possibilities from<br />

the car park, plus Nightingales, while Black and<br />

Griffon Vultures and Booted Eagles should be<br />

easily found, soaring above. Buses run to the<br />

monastery from Port Alcudia once a day, leaving<br />

at 9am and returning at 5pm (but check the<br />

timetable for changes). There’s also a botanical<br />

garden (entrance free).<br />

CUBER RESERVOIR<br />

On the road from Pollença to Soller, this reservoir<br />

has ample car parking and well-marked footpaths<br />

(although no toilets), and the birding starts pretty<br />

much immediately that you’ve arrived.<br />

Black and Griffon Vultures can be seen<br />

overhead, plus Booted Eagles and Eleonora’s<br />

Falcons, and Ospreys are always a possibility too.<br />

Cirl Buntings and Blue Rock Thrushes are<br />

widespread here, and it’s a good place to look for<br />

the cryptically patterned Wryneck, foraging for<br />

ants. Spectacled and Subalpine Warblers are also<br />

present, and migrants such as Redstarts,<br />

Wheatears and wagtails of all sorts pass through<br />

on migration.<br />

éé SA GUBIA<br />

There are many great places to<br />

explore in north Mallorca<br />

é BARRANC DE BINIARAIX<br />

One of the most spectacular<br />

walking routes in the Mallorcan<br />

mountains<br />

ê SELVA<br />

An attractive village set against the<br />

backdrop of the Serra de<br />

Tramuntana range<br />

êê S’ESTACA<br />

VALLDEMOSSA<br />

Another hidden gem, be it bird<br />

or village, is always just around<br />

the corner<br />

êêê CHILL OUT<br />

Enjoy the view, enjoy the birds, and<br />

relax in style in the lovely<br />

Mediterranean sunshine<br />

Griffon Vulture Booted Eagle and Blue Rock Thrush are present... and look for Wrynecks<br />

FACTFILE<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

Puerto Pollensa: La Gola reserve is right in the<br />

town of Puerto Pollensa – you can easily walk<br />

around its woodland, scrub and lake each day in<br />

search of birds, including a variety of herons.<br />

Pollença: A few miles west, has a more<br />

traditional feel, and is small enough to walk<br />

around in a morning. Hotels include the<br />

five-star Son Brull, one of Mallorca’s best.<br />

Soller: Just inland from the north-west coast.<br />

Visit the Jardin Botanic and the Museu Balear<br />

de Ciencies, a natural science museum, and the<br />

striking Esglesia de Sant Bartomeu.<br />

Alcudia: Retains its medieval walls, narrow,<br />

cobbled streets, many historic buildings.<br />

GETTING AROUND<br />

Public transport is very cheap. The Airport Bus<br />

runs to Palma every 15 minutes. If you are not<br />

staying in the city or the port, get off the bus at<br />

the Plaza d’Espanya, go down the steps past<br />

the train departures to the bus station, used by<br />

the red and yellow TIB buses. The 340 bus to<br />

Puerto Pollensa takes just over an hour and<br />

costs only €6. It usually leaves from bay 14.<br />

OTHER THINGS TO TRY<br />

Visit Deia: This idyllic village was the home of<br />

Robert Graves, poet and author of I Claudius.<br />

The views are wonderful, and you can walk<br />

down to Cala Deia, a small shingle beach in an<br />

attractive cove. It boasts two restaurants (open<br />

only in the summer season), with fresh fish as<br />

their speciality. There are plenty of walking trails<br />

in the hills above the village.<br />

Walking: Spring and autumn are ideal times for<br />

walkers, although summer walks include some<br />

along the Boquer Valley. There’s a good walk<br />

over the mountains to Cala Vincent, with<br />

fantastic views of Cala Carbo – you’ll find a<br />

couple of lovely bars by the water’s edge<br />

serving food.<br />

Another great walk starts just off the<br />

Formentor Road at Casa Velles. Park on the left<br />

and walk through the woods on the opposite<br />

side to Cala Murta, a lovely quiet cove. Close<br />

by, walk from the Formentor road to the tower<br />

of Albercutx.<br />

Park at the first mirador, and the road to the<br />

tower is opposite on the right. There are<br />

spectacular views of Puerto Pollensa and<br />

Alcudia in the distance.<br />

Watersports: Scuba diving is popular around<br />

Puerto Pollensa. Also very popular in the<br />

harbour is kiteboarding. There is a kite and surf<br />

school halfway between Puerto Pollensa and<br />

Alcudia which has a large range of equipment<br />

and is located directly opposite the beach<br />

where most of these sports takes place.<br />

At the harbour, as well as jet skis, there<br />

are yachts and catamarans, all of<br />

which can be hired and<br />

enjoyed.<br />

Cycling: Mallorca<br />

is a favourite<br />

destination for both<br />

leisure and<br />

professional cyclists,<br />

but you can just as easily, simply use a bike as a<br />

means to explore the island.<br />

More ambitious cyclists go to Cap Formentor,<br />

a very demanding route. There is a small café at<br />

the first mirador, frequently used for its<br />

spectacular views.<br />

There are numerous rental shops in the ports,<br />

but prices vary, so shop around.<br />

Eat and drink local: North Mallorca has<br />

excellent restaurants, bars and vineyards, so<br />

make sure you take the chance to sample the<br />

local cuisine, which not surprisingly features<br />

seafood heavily. Restaurant Jardin, in Alcudia,<br />

has an international reputation, and chef-owner<br />

Macarena De Castro is the proud possessor of<br />

a Michelin star, so it is certainly worth a visit!<br />

Website: enjoymallorca.com/destinations<br />

BOCQUER CAP DU<br />

PORT DE SA<br />

FORMENTOR<br />

POLLENÇA<br />

CALOBRA<br />

VINYES MORTITX<br />

ALCUDIA<br />

TRAMUNTANA<br />

SOLLER<br />

DEIA<br />

VALLDEMOSSA<br />

PALMA<br />

LLUC<br />

14 Birding in North Mallorca<br />

birdwatching.co.uk 15


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