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Birding in<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong><br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
DISCOVER the<br />
island's rich<br />
history, culture<br />
and amazing<br />
landscapes<br />
INSIDE:<br />
BRILLIANT BIRDING<br />
HOTSPOTS IN<br />
LOCATIONS ALL<br />
THE FAMILY WILL<br />
ENJOY!<br />
Panu Ruangjan / Alamy<br />
FEATURING: Albufera Son Real S’Albufereta Tramuntana<br />
MUST SEE BIRDS & WHERE TO FIND THEM<br />
8Cirl Bunting Blue Rock Thrush Eleonora’s Falcon<br />
Hoopoe Black Vulture Black-winged Stilt<br />
Balearic Warbler Stone-curlew
BIRDING IN<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong><br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
WELCOME<br />
FOR A BIRDER with a family,<br />
North Mallorca has it all – great<br />
birds, including near-endemics,<br />
rare raptors, colourful resident birds,<br />
and passage migrants. Plus, there’s<br />
affordable accommodation, cheap<br />
flights plus great beaches and<br />
glorious weather!<br />
10 MUSTS WHEN VISITING<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong> <strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
SAMPLE THE LOCAL WINE The reserve at Mortitx is set amid<br />
1 vineyards – take a tour of one to refresh yourself after birding<br />
TRY THE LOCAL CUISINE Mallorca’s great restaurants include<br />
2 El Jardin, in Alcudia – it’s very popular, though, so book early<br />
VISIT LLUC MONASTERY The most important pilgrimage<br />
3 site on Mallorca, in the Tramuntana – also great for birds<br />
RIDE THE FERROCARRIL DE SOLLER This narrow-gauge<br />
4 railway runs from Palma to Soller, near the north-west coast<br />
SEE A BLACK VULTURE Mallorca has the only European<br />
5 island population of this immense raptor<br />
SEE ALCUDIA’S OLD TOWN This, Mallorca’s historic capital,<br />
6 contains Roman and medieval remains, markets and shops<br />
VISIT AN ISLAND Dragonera and Cabrera are great for<br />
7 migrants passing through – take a closer look<br />
FIND A WOODCHAT SHRIKE The badius subspecies of this<br />
8 smart little predator is found around orchards and parkland<br />
TAKE A BOAT TRIP This is the best way to see Eleonora’s<br />
9 Falcon colonies, on Dragonera, Cabrera, or at Cap de Formentor<br />
VISIT DEIA This pretty, unspoiled village was once the home<br />
10 of the writer Robert Graves, and boasts great views<br />
Albufera nature trail<br />
Son Real ancient ruins<br />
S’Albufereta nature reserve<br />
BRILLIANT<br />
Golden Oriole<br />
BIRDING<br />
Sightings of the Balearic Warbler and other great birds could reward a visit to this reserve<br />
SON REAL<br />
This might be Mallorca’s ‘rising star’ where<br />
reserves are concerned, a mixture of arable<br />
farmland, heather and rosemary heath, woodland,<br />
and undeveloped coastline that has already<br />
recorded great birds, but also has the potential for<br />
many more to be discovered, as more and more<br />
birders use it.<br />
Situated south of C’an Picafort, just off the road<br />
to Arta, it is well-known as a site for warblers,<br />
with Sardinian and Dartford Warblers, both to be<br />
found in the scrubby areas close to the coast.<br />
Their close relative, the Balearic Warbler, is the<br />
real prize, though, and although they can be very<br />
shy and skulking, especially as the summer wears<br />
on, good numbers are present, with the area<br />
around the viewing tower particularly productive.<br />
Getting familiar with their song and calls is a<br />
must to give yourself the best chance of finding<br />
them, and they’ve been known to respond well to<br />
‘pishing’. Audouin’s Gull is another target here,<br />
along the shore, where small numbers of Kentish<br />
Plovers can also be found in spring and summer.<br />
The resident species include Stone-curlew,<br />
Thekla Lark and Hoopoe in the arable land,<br />
supplemented by Woodchat Shrike, Spotted<br />
Flycatcher, Wheatears, pipits (including Tawny)<br />
and a variety of passage migrants in spring, while<br />
in winter finch flocks arrive (and keep an eye out<br />
for Hawfinches), along with Song Thrushes.<br />
Above all, this is a rewarding but easy site to<br />
birdwatch at, close to the resort of C’an Picafort.<br />
The paths are accessible and over easy terrain,<br />
and you can get satisfyingly close to the target<br />
species. An early start is a good idea, as the beach<br />
in particular can get busy later in the day.<br />
WORDS: ANDY SIMPSON<br />
on your doorstep<br />
GETTING THERE<br />
The 445/446 bus services run past the reserve, but<br />
it is also within easy walking or cycling reach of<br />
C’an Picafort itself. There is a car park on site, at<br />
the visitor centre and toilets.<br />
VITAL INFORMATION<br />
Opening times are: April-September, 10am-7pm;<br />
October-March: 10am-5pm; reception is open from<br />
10am-4pm; exhibitions open from 10am-5pm<br />
Tel: +34 971 185 363<br />
websites: enjoymallorca.com/alcudia<br />
mallorcabirdwatching.com/sonreal<br />
email: sonreal@balears-sostenible.com<br />
é MED SPECIALIST<br />
Audouin’s Gull is a beautiful bird,<br />
largely restricted to the<br />
Mediterranean and especially<br />
its islands<br />
ê GREAT VIEWS<br />
You’ll be able to spot many<br />
beautiful birds from the<br />
viewing platform<br />
Alamy<br />
WHY NOT<br />
ALSO TRY<br />
Son Real has a preserved<br />
traditional Mallorcan farmhouse,<br />
containing exhibitions on the<br />
history and culture of the island<br />
– make sure you make a visit<br />
while you’re there<br />
2 Birding in North Mallorca
BIRDING IN<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong><br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
S’ALBUFERETA<br />
Extending either side of the coast road, this<br />
reserve includes a beach area, on which both<br />
Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers breed, and<br />
a much larger area of lagoons (both fresh and<br />
saltwater), plus scrub and pine woodland.<br />
Black-winged Stilts are among the breeding<br />
birds on the lagoons, along with Purple Gallinule,<br />
while the hirundines and swifts that are<br />
numerous here attract the attentions of Eleonora’s<br />
Falcons, particularly early in the day. Cetti’s<br />
Warblers breed, and the saline lakes have even<br />
recorded Greater Flamingo.<br />
It’s a particularly good site to search during<br />
migration periods, with a wide range of passerines<br />
possible, including those Blue-headed Wagtails<br />
(Yellow Wagtails of the flava race) again, other<br />
Yellow Wagtails, Redstarts, both Spotted and Pied<br />
Flycatchers, Nightingales and both Moustached<br />
and Subalpine Warblers.<br />
Honey Buzzards and Montagu’s Harriers<br />
pass through on migration, and Redfooted<br />
Falcon has also been recorded<br />
here. The fields and orchards, and any<br />
overhead power or telephone lines, are<br />
worth checking for the likes of<br />
Bee-eater, Serin, Woodchat Shrike,<br />
Crossbill, Corn Bunting, Hoopoe,<br />
Golden Oriole and Whinchat.<br />
GETTING THERE<br />
From Puerto Pollensa or Alcudia, catch<br />
one of the TIB buses (352/353 ) which run<br />
frequently between Puerto Pollensa and<br />
Can Piquafort. The stop is a short walk from<br />
the reserve, outside the kite and surf shop.<br />
VITAL INFORMATION<br />
Access is available at all times, but be careful to<br />
respect private property, as the reserve includes<br />
a number of farms and other buildings.<br />
ê ALBUFERA<br />
This viewing screen allows<br />
to get as close as<br />
possible to the birds<br />
WHY NOT<br />
ALSO TRY<br />
Birdwatching the reserve by<br />
bike can bring great results –<br />
although smaller than Albufera,<br />
it’s still large enough, so it’s a<br />
great way of getting around<br />
quickly without<br />
disturbing birds<br />
WHY NOT<br />
ALSO TRY<br />
Albufera can get very<br />
busy, with a consequent<br />
disturbance to the birds, so try<br />
to visit as early or late in the<br />
day as possible<br />
éé WOODCHAT<br />
Mallorca’s Woodchat Shrike are of<br />
the Balearic subspecies, badius<br />
é WARM WELCOME<br />
The visitors’ centre offers much for<br />
the birdwatcher, including trails<br />
ê SQUACCO HERON<br />
Arguably Europe’s most beautiful<br />
heron, the Squacco is a delight<br />
ALBUFERA<br />
Let’s start with the one Mallorcan reserve<br />
that you’ve probably already heard of – Parc<br />
Natural s’Albufera, to give it its full name.<br />
Situated just south of Alcudia, it’s the<br />
island’s largest wetland reserve, and<br />
probably the largest on any Mediterranean<br />
island. There’s a visitor centre with toilets,<br />
marked trails for birders, cyclists and<br />
walkers, and several hides, making it<br />
particularly user-friendly for birdwatchers<br />
with families in tow, or anyone dropping in for<br />
a day’s birding as part of a more general holiday.<br />
The habitats include saltmarsh, reedbeds,<br />
freshwater lagoons and pools, plus conifer<br />
woodland and tamarisk groves, and these bring<br />
the corresponding variety of species that you’d<br />
expect.<br />
In spring and autumn, a wide range of waders<br />
pass through, and it’s also a good place to look for<br />
herons, with Purple, Night and Squacco all<br />
present. Woodchat Shrikes (of the western<br />
Mediterranean badius race) perch atop bushes and<br />
scrub on the lookout for prey, while common<br />
warblers include Moustached and Cetti’s.<br />
Nightingales should also be heard in spring and<br />
summer, and check every Yellow Wagtail you see<br />
– the Blue-headed (flava) race is regular here.<br />
GETTING THERE<br />
If you’re staying in Puerto Pollensa or Alcudia,<br />
you can use the TIB buses (352/353) that run<br />
frequently between Puerto Pollensa and Can<br />
Piquafort. These stop at Playa Muro, just outside<br />
the reserve’s entrance. If you’re driving, there is a<br />
very small car park, but also parking in front of<br />
the supermarket across the road.<br />
VITAL INFORMATION<br />
Opening times are: 1 October – 31 March, from<br />
9am to 5pm; 1st April – 30th September, 9am-6pm.<br />
Tel: +34 971 892250 /<br />
Website: enjoymallorca.com/portdepollenca<br />
Email: parc.albufera@wanadoo.es<br />
Entrance: Free, but pick up a permit at the<br />
reception area.<br />
8<br />
BIRDS TO FIND<br />
in Mallorca<br />
Emberiza cirlus<br />
LENGTH: 6.25ins (16cm)<br />
WINGSPAN: 8.75-10.25ins (22-26cm)<br />
FOOD: Various seeds, almost all taken from the ground.<br />
Grasshoppers can be important in summer.<br />
BREEDING: Lays 3-4 eggs in a nest well hidden low in a<br />
bush or creeper.<br />
Orchards and vineyards are good places to look<br />
for this attractive bunting in its strongholds<br />
around the Mediterranean – it is particularly fond<br />
of sunlit slopes. It can crop up in urban and<br />
suburban areas, though, as long as its main<br />
habitat requirement – open country with some<br />
dense cover – is met. Its song, a short, metallic<br />
trill, lacks the longer end note of a<br />
Yellowhammer’s song, while the flight call is a<br />
short, high, soft ‘ssip’, often frustratingly<br />
difficult to place.<br />
IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />
The Albufera Reserve is a great place to find<br />
them, but the species is resident and widespread<br />
in the right habitat. The Arta Peninsula is a<br />
hotspot for them, mainly in arable fields, while<br />
the Cuber Reservoir is another good spot to find<br />
them. Finally, the Boquer Valley offers great<br />
opportunities – scan the tops of bushes and<br />
shrubs – they will often be perched on these<br />
(Stonechats are the other species that typically<br />
does this, here).<br />
WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />
Mainly a bird of southern Europe, although it<br />
breeds in northern France right up to the Channel<br />
coast. In the UK, coastal hedges and fields in<br />
south Devon (and a few Cornish sites) are the only<br />
place you’ll find it – numbers are low, although<br />
the RSPB has a project aimed at boosting them.<br />
Eight target species to discover in this birding paradise<br />
WORDS: MATT MERRITT<br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong> OFFERS opportunities<br />
to see near-endemic species, to<br />
get great views of birds hard to<br />
find elsewhere, and to get close<br />
up to some more familiar<br />
species. Here are eight species<br />
to look for on the island,<br />
elsewhere in the Mediterranean,<br />
and even closer to home…<br />
CIRL BUNTING<br />
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…<br />
It was first identified by the<br />
ornithologist George Montagu (of<br />
harrier fame) near the Devon town of<br />
Kingsbridge – still the bird’s UK<br />
stronghold, its range having<br />
expanded into southern<br />
England, before the recent<br />
range contraction<br />
Cavall Bernat<br />
ID POINTERS<br />
Male has distinctive black eyestripe and bib,<br />
yellow cheeks and green breast<br />
Female is less strongly marked, with flat crown,<br />
and striped face<br />
Males have olive rump (compare with<br />
Yellowhammer’s rusty rump), females duller<br />
Males have distinctive rusty brown area on<br />
wings and tertials<br />
Female has chestnut area on shoulders<br />
Larger-billed but shorter-tailed than<br />
the Yellowhammer<br />
Male Cirl Bunting<br />
MORE INFO<br />
For many more bird sites<br />
and bird information in the<br />
area you can visit<br />
mallorcabirdwatching.com<br />
4 Birding in North Mallorca<br />
birdwatching.co.uk 5
BIRDING IN<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong><br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
BLUE ROCK THRUSH<br />
Monticola solitarius<br />
LENGTH 8ins (20cm)<br />
WINGSPAN 14-15.5ins (35-40cm)<br />
FOOD: Insects and small lizards, plus a few berries.<br />
BREEDING: Lays 4-5 eggs in a nest made in a hole in a rock,<br />
wall, or building.<br />
If seen in silhouette, or at long distance, this gorgeous thrush<br />
can escape notice surprisingly easily. But check every thrush<br />
or Starling-sized bird in likely areas, because a closer look will<br />
reveal the beautiful blue tones that give it its name.<br />
Its song, sometimes delivered in a swooping songflight, but<br />
perhaps more often from a high, rocky perch, is similar to the<br />
Blackbird’s and the Mistle Thrush’s, but with simpler, and<br />
shorter, phrases. Calls include a high ‘peep’ and a harsher<br />
‘tchuk tchuk’.<br />
Male Blue Rock Thrush<br />
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…<br />
The Blue Rock Thrush is<br />
actually a chat, or<br />
Old World flycatcher, rather<br />
than a Turdus thrush.<br />
It is found across Europe and<br />
Asia, as far east as Japan and<br />
breeds in rock habitats<br />
ID POINTERS<br />
Male can appear black at distance – in good<br />
light, shows intense, smoky blue<br />
Female has bluish upperparts (fading to brown<br />
in autumn), but brown, barred underparts<br />
Long wings and tail, and strong, easy flight style<br />
Spends long periods stationary on sunlit<br />
boulders or cliff ledges<br />
Juveniles are similar to females in appearance<br />
Long, dark bill is distinctive<br />
IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />
This resident breeder lives in mountainous regions, so is best<br />
looked for at specific sites (if you want to avoid long walks or<br />
difficult climbs!).<br />
A few pairs can be found in the Boquer Valley, while the<br />
Formentor Peninsula is also a great place to look for them. The<br />
Parc Natural de Llevant, on the Arta Peninsula, is another likely<br />
spot for them. Nowhere are numbers high, but it is a relatively<br />
widespread bird, so check prominent rocky outcrops, cliffs and<br />
old buildings.<br />
WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />
In warm, rocky areas throughout southern Europe – its close<br />
relative, the Rock Thrush, is much more a bird of high meadows.<br />
Resident in many areas, while in others it disperses to warmer<br />
parts in winter.<br />
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…<br />
Recent research has shown that<br />
Eleonora’s Falcons even hold live<br />
prey captive, by plucking out the tail<br />
and flight feathers of the unfortunate<br />
birds before wedging them in stone<br />
crevices – this keeps the prey<br />
fresh for a day or two<br />
ELEONORA’S FALCON<br />
longer<br />
Falco eleonorae<br />
LENGTH 14-16.5ins (36-42cm)<br />
WINGSPAN 34-41ins (87-104cm)<br />
FOOD: Outside the breeding season, insects of all sorts, caught on the wing, plus a few<br />
beetles and grasshoppers taken on the ground. In the breeding season, smaller birds of all<br />
sorts, caught on the wing, often over the sea as they migrate.<br />
BREEDING: A colonial breeder, in groups of 20-200 pairs. Two or three eggs are laid by<br />
each, on a cliff ledge, and the young fly after 35-40 days.<br />
Rocky coasts are the place to look for one of Europe’s rarest raptors. Here they<br />
time their own breeding season for late summer and early autumn, so that<br />
they can feed their young on the glut of prey provided by exhausted and often<br />
inexperienced small passerine migrants. Several can sometimes be seen<br />
hunting together (although not co-operatively, as such).<br />
They fly into the wind, looking for incoming prey, before making the kill<br />
with a sharp stoop. Dawn is a particularly good time to look for them, as they<br />
target night-flying migrants.<br />
IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />
Arriving late in April, and staying until early November, there are several<br />
hundred pairs breeding on Mallorca. Most are on the west coast, and there<br />
are large colonies on Cabrera, Dragonera, Cap Formentor and Cala Sant<br />
Vincenc – check these from August onwards. Prior to the breeding season,<br />
look for it hawking for insects at Albufera Reserve or over nearby open forest<br />
areas and at Son Bosc. Boat trips are available to help you get the best views<br />
of these sites, and could also bring the added bonus of a Balearic Shearwater.<br />
This superb raptor can also be seen in the Boquer Valley and at Cases Velles,<br />
while there are also opportunities to stop on the road between Puerto<br />
Pollensa and Cap Formentor.<br />
WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />
Outside the Balearics, not in many places at all! The Canary Islands, Sardinia<br />
and islands off Italy, islands in the Adriatic and Aegean, and on Cyprus. In<br />
late autumn, they migrate to the Red Sea, then Madagascar.<br />
Eleonora’s Falcon<br />
ID POINTERS<br />
Rakish, Hobby-like silhouette, but is considerably<br />
larger than the commoner raptor<br />
Adults have striking white neck patch and<br />
dark moustache<br />
Underparts are a rusty buff colour<br />
Longer-winged and tailed than Peregrine<br />
and Hobby<br />
Flight is acrobatic and dashing, and<br />
shows frequent changes of speed<br />
Dark-morph birds (all sooty brown<br />
and black) occur, too<br />
Dragonera<br />
KLAUS BJERRE/Nature Photographers Ltd<br />
Casa at Boquer<br />
MORE INFO<br />
To find places to eat and<br />
stay next to a beautiful cala<br />
visit enjoymallorca.com/<br />
CalaSantVicenc<br />
MORE INFO<br />
Take a boat trip to see<br />
these falcons on the island<br />
of Cabrera.<br />
Visit enjoymallorca.com/<br />
cabrera<br />
KLAUS BJERRE/Nature Photographers Ltd<br />
6 Birding in North Mallorca<br />
birdwatching.co.uk 7
BIRDING IN<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong><br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
Hoopoe<br />
Puig Nassi i Son Poc<br />
MORE INFO<br />
Visit the centre for bird<br />
tourism at La Gola<br />
EnjoyMallorca.com/<br />
HOOPOE<br />
birdwatching from the<br />
north of Mallorca<br />
Upupa epops<br />
LENGTH 10.25-11ins (26-28cm)<br />
WINGSPAN 17.5-19ins (44-48cm)<br />
FOOD: Insects including beetles, caterpillars and grubs,<br />
small frogs and lizards.<br />
BREEDING: Nests in holes in trees and walls, laying 7-8<br />
eggs in May and June.<br />
Both the English and the scientific name of this<br />
species are onomatopoeic, imitating the soft, but<br />
resonant ‘poo poo poo’ call, often delivered from a<br />
bare branch in a tree, or from a rooftop or similar<br />
perch. For what is, on the face of it, a highly<br />
distinctive bird, they can be surprisingly difficult<br />
to spot on the ground, especially as they’re often<br />
seen under trees, in dappled sunlight.<br />
They’re fond of sunbathing (and also dust and<br />
sand baths), so once you have first seen them,<br />
there can be great opportunities to observe them<br />
at length.<br />
IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />
Hoopoes are resident breeders on the island, and<br />
are abundant in most parts, especially scrubby<br />
areas and parkland. In Puerto Pollensa it can be<br />
found in the farmland at the bottom of the Boquer<br />
Valley, and also at the side of the road next to the<br />
Pine Walk.<br />
WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />
Most of mainland Europe, except for the highest<br />
areas. In Britain, up to 100 birds turn up every<br />
year, usually during spring migration, and usually<br />
in the south, although it can be found in any<br />
suitable habitat – this can include gardens,<br />
especially, historically, vicars’ gardens!<br />
BLACK VULTURE<br />
Aegypius monachus<br />
LENGTH 39-43ins (100-110cm)<br />
WINGSPAN up to 9ft (2.8m)<br />
FOOD: Carrion of all sorts – at carcasses, they can even<br />
dominate Griffon Vultures and take the choice parts.<br />
BREEDING: Makes a bulky nest of sticks in a tree and<br />
(very rarely) on cliffs. A single egg is laid.<br />
Unlike most Old World vultures, which breed in colonies, Black Vultures<br />
do so only in looser groups, and are also less likely to be sociable away<br />
from the nest. Although in some areas they occur alongside the Griffon<br />
Vulture, with which they can be confused at distance, they are far less of<br />
a bird of the mountains than the commoner species.<br />
They are the dominant raptors throughout their range, even bullying<br />
other large vultures and eagles at kills, and on rare occasions may even<br />
take live prey.<br />
IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />
Mallorca’s most important and sought-after breeding bird is only found in<br />
the Serra de Tramuntana. Nearly extinct on the island in the early 1980s, a<br />
conservation project was started in 1983, with the help of the regional<br />
government of the Balearic Islands. The first breeding success was in<br />
1986, and there are now more than 130 birds, after a record breeding year<br />
in 2014. They nest in the north of the Tramuntana Mountains, but also<br />
feed in places around the Boquer Valley. The best sites to look for them<br />
are at Mortitx, the monastery at Lluc (where there’s a visitor centre for the<br />
Tramuntana), the Cuber Reservoir, and Castell Del Rei, on the Ternelles<br />
estate, near Pollença.<br />
WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />
Small numbers in the Balkans and Asia<br />
Minor, and also found in the<br />
Extremadura region of mainland<br />
Spain, but otherwise you would be<br />
best to travel to central Asia.<br />
ID POINTERS<br />
Always appears dark – even the wings show only<br />
very subtle contrasts<br />
Largest of its family in Europe, although some<br />
overlap with larger individual Griffon Vultures<br />
Found mainly in hilly, wooded or partiallywooded<br />
areas<br />
Soars in wide circles on flat wings<br />
(Griffon Vultures soar on raised wings)<br />
Perches more horizontally and less upright than<br />
Griffon Vultures<br />
Almost silent, but display flights include pairs<br />
tumbling with feet interlocked<br />
Black Vulture<br />
Boquer<br />
WILDLIFE GmbH / Alamy<br />
MORE INFO<br />
Learn more at<br />
enjoymallorca.com/<br />
theserrade<br />
tramuntanamountains<br />
ID POINTERS<br />
Mistle Thrush sized, with a large crest<br />
Orange-red head and breast and black-and-white wings unlike any other species<br />
Crest raised when excited, in flight (on occasion), and immediately after bird lands<br />
Flight is erratic, bounding, and almost butterfly-like<br />
Bill long, slightly downcurved<br />
Spends a lot of time on ground, shuffling along after prey<br />
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…<br />
Hoopoes have particularly<br />
strong head muscles, which<br />
allow them to open their bill<br />
while they’re probing into the earth<br />
– this adaptation is particularly<br />
valuable given they live in<br />
fairly dry areas<br />
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…<br />
Black Vultures are also known<br />
as Monk Vultures (a reference<br />
to their bald head and ruff of<br />
neck feathers), or Cinereous<br />
Vultures, often to avoid confusion<br />
with the North American<br />
Black Vulture<br />
PAUL STERRY/Nature Photographers<br />
8 Birding in North Mallorca<br />
birdwatching.co.uk 9
BIRDING IN<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong><br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
MORE INFO<br />
Learn more about where<br />
to visit and what to see<br />
in Alcudia by visiting<br />
enjoymallorca.com/alcudia<br />
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…<br />
The Balearic Warbler is closely<br />
related to Marmora’s Warbler,<br />
another island species found mainly<br />
in Corsica and Sardinia<br />
Son Real hide<br />
Son Real<br />
Son Real<br />
Black-winged Stilt<br />
BLACK-WINGED STILT<br />
Himantopus himantopus<br />
LENGTH 14-15.5ins (35-40cm)<br />
WINGSPAN 27.5ins (70cm)<br />
FOOD: Small aquatic invertebrates, taken from both salt and fresh water.<br />
BREEDING: Nests in a scrape on mud next to water – typically raises four chicks, which<br />
fly at 30 days.<br />
It’s pretty hard to confuse a Black-winged Stilt with anything else, even at<br />
long range. If the pied plumage isn’t enough of a giveaway, then the<br />
extraordinarily long legs, in relation to its overall size, will clinch the<br />
identification. It’s generally found in coastal habitats, although it will use<br />
freshwater lagoons just inland as well as saltwater and brackish pools.<br />
Calls include a ‘kek’ that sounds rather like a Coot, and harsher, more<br />
varied calls, not unlike terns’ calls.<br />
Most migrate south to Africa in the winter, but a few remain close to their<br />
Mediterranean breeding grounds.<br />
IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />
The saltpans at Albufera are undoubtedly the best<br />
spot for good, extended views of this<br />
extraordinary bird, but, as is the case for many<br />
waders, it depends on food availability and<br />
weather conditions.<br />
WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />
Widespread but relatively thinly scattered in<br />
southern Europe and parts of western and<br />
northern France. Small numbers turn up in<br />
Britain each year, with several recent<br />
successful nesting attempts in Kent and<br />
Sussex, perhaps heralding a colonisation.<br />
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…<br />
There are up to seven<br />
subspecies of Black-winged Stilt,<br />
including the Hawaiian Stilt, the<br />
archipelago’s only breeding wader.<br />
Some authorities recognise some<br />
of these subspecies as up to five<br />
distinct full species<br />
ID POINTERS<br />
Long straight bill, unlike Avocet’s upturned bill<br />
Some black on head in summer, whiter in winter<br />
Black (actually green-black) wings, white elsewhere,<br />
with long white V up back<br />
Slender, elegant build<br />
Often wades belly-deep in search of food<br />
Very long, bright red-pink legs<br />
Albufera Salt Marsh<br />
Ian Butler Bird / Alamy<br />
BALEARIC WARBLER<br />
Sylvia balearica<br />
LENGTH 5-5.5ins (13-14cm)<br />
WINGSPAN 9.25-11.75ins (25-30cm)<br />
FOOD: Small insects and spiders, taken from foliage close<br />
to the ground.<br />
BREEDING: Makes a nest of moss and grass, deep in a<br />
small bush – typically lays five eggs.<br />
This is the Balearic Islands’ only endemic full<br />
species, a close relative of the Marmora’s Warbler<br />
and the Dartford Warbler, which has actually<br />
supplanted it on the smaller island of Menorca.<br />
Mallorca, then, is the best place to find this<br />
attractive little bird. As with most members of this<br />
family, sound can be the key to finding it. Its song<br />
is a rather grating warble, while its call is a nasal,<br />
slightly wheezy ‘tsrek’.<br />
Coastal scrub is a preferred habitat for this bird,<br />
but they can also be found in sparsely vegetated<br />
rocky, scrubby areas. Wherever you hope to find<br />
them, though, you need to be on the lookout for an<br />
all-grey version of the slightly more familiar<br />
Dartford Warbler.<br />
IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />
A resident breeding species, it can be abundant in<br />
the right habitat. Hotspots where you’re likely to<br />
see them include Son Real, just south of C’an<br />
Picafort on the Alcudia to Arta road. The Arta<br />
Peninsula is also worth checking out thoroughly<br />
– wherever you look, you need patience.<br />
WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />
Found only in the Balearic Islands, and in Menorca<br />
it has been ousted by the Dartford Warbler.<br />
MORE INFO<br />
Learn about and<br />
experience the culture of<br />
Mallorca and its many<br />
museums and churches<br />
at enjoymallorca.com<br />
ID POINTERS<br />
Pale grey underneath, and darker, blue-grey above<br />
Male has pale throat patch, often conspicuous<br />
Orange bill, orange-brown legs, and red eye ring<br />
Long tail and relatively slight build<br />
Peaked crown, like most Sylvia warblers<br />
Very skulking habits – usually hides deep in bushes<br />
and scrub<br />
Balearic Warbler<br />
age fotostock / Alamy<br />
10 Birding in North Mallorca<br />
birdwatching.co.uk 11
BIRDING IN<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong><br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
Stone-curlew<br />
ROGER TIDMAN/Nature Photographers Ltd<br />
MORE INFO<br />
You can see some some of<br />
the spectacular scenery this<br />
lovely island has to offer at<br />
enjoymallorca.com/<br />
stunningviews<br />
STONE-CURLEW<br />
Burhinus oedicnemus<br />
LENGTH 15-17ins (40-44cm)<br />
WINGSPAN 31-33ins (77-85cm)<br />
FOOD: Large insects, picked from the ground, plus a few<br />
small invertebrates, reptiles and amphibians.<br />
BREEDING: Nests in a shallow scoop in the soil; two<br />
chicks fly when 36-42 days old.<br />
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…<br />
The name thick-knee<br />
comes from an 18th Century<br />
name for the bird – Thick-kneed<br />
Bustard. In southern Africa,<br />
stone-curlew species were<br />
also known by another<br />
name, dikkops<br />
Found on dry farmland, heaths and grassland, this strange-looking, stocky<br />
wader is a member of the thick-knee family, which all share its goggle-eyed<br />
appearance. In daylight, it will often crouch or stand under trees or other<br />
cover, becoming more active around dawn and dusk. Its wailing, whistling<br />
calls can resemble those of the Curlew and the Oystercatcher, and it is often<br />
heard before it’s seen.<br />
IN <strong>MALLORCA</strong>, LOOK FOR AT…<br />
Son Real, a nature reserve with a visitor centre and bird hide just south of<br />
Alcudia – this site is also great for a variety of warblers, plus Crossbills and<br />
Cirl Buntings. A resident breeding species, it is relatively common in dry<br />
arable areas on the island, but can also be found at wetland sites such as<br />
Albufera and s’Albufereta Natural Park. Keep an eye out in any areas of dry<br />
arable land – scan fields carefully as Stone-curlews can be astonishingly well<br />
camouflaged against the earth.<br />
WHERE ELSE CAN I SEE IT?<br />
Mainly a bird of southern Europe and the Near East, with birds from further<br />
north wintering near the Mediterranean and in Africa. In Britain, small<br />
numbers (350 pairs)<br />
breed in East Anglia<br />
(especially the ID POINTERS<br />
Breckland), and on<br />
Salisbury Plain.<br />
Large yellow eye and yellow on bill visible even at fairly long range<br />
Conservation efforts have<br />
resulted in a small<br />
White belly, streaked upperparts<br />
increase in the<br />
population, but it remains Broad white stripe from forehead, passes under eye<br />
rare. It is a summer<br />
visitor in the UK, from White band across closed wing<br />
March to October. Head<br />
for Weeting Heath in In flight, long wings with black trailing edge, and white spots near tip<br />
Norfolk where the<br />
Norfolk Wildlife Trust Steady, regular walk, but tilts forward when running<br />
has viewing facilities.<br />
Son Real<br />
s’Albufereta Natural Park<br />
s’Albufereta Natural Park<br />
SERRA DE<br />
TRAMUNTANA<br />
AND THE <strong>NORTH</strong> COAST<br />
The north coast of Mallorca offers some of the best birding you will enjoy on the island<br />
THE TRAMUNTANA STRETCHES along<br />
the north coast of Mallorca, a range of<br />
limestone mountains reaching 4,700<br />
feet (1,432m) at their highest point.<br />
They’re a world away from the beach<br />
resort image of Mallorca that you might have, and<br />
they form a vast, unspoiled area – the largest<br />
natural park on the island – in which you can<br />
make your own birdwatching discoveries, as well<br />
as exploring the island’s historical, cultural and<br />
scenic riches. Their height, steepness and relative<br />
remoteness makes them a refuge for some of<br />
Mallorca’s most internationally important and<br />
iconic species, including the Black Vulture.<br />
CAP DE<br />
FORMENTOR<br />
This is an easy spot to visit if you’re staying<br />
in Alcudia, Puerto Pollensa, or the old town<br />
of Pollença. Its rocky landscape makes it<br />
home to mountain birds such as Blue Rock<br />
Thrush, Balearic Warbler and Booted Eagle,<br />
and it’s also a great vantage point for<br />
seawatching, with Balearic and Cory’s<br />
Shearwaters passing by.<br />
From early summer onwards, though,<br />
the species that most birders want to see here<br />
WORDS: ANDY SIMPSON<br />
Life on white / Alamy<br />
is Eleonora’s Falcon. A large colony nests on the<br />
cliffs below the lighthouse in late summer, and<br />
while they can be seen from above, the most<br />
spectacular views can be had from a boat trip. The<br />
tower at Albercutx, a little further down the coast,<br />
is another fine viewpoint for these birds, as well as<br />
other raptors such as Honey Buzzards migrating<br />
through the island in spring and autumn.<br />
BOQUER VALLEY<br />
Right on the edge of Puerto Pollensa, the Boquer<br />
Valley is often a very good spot to find newlyarrived<br />
migrants. The car park is just off the<br />
roundabout on the road to Formentor, and to the<br />
left of the path leading from the car park are olive<br />
groves and an almond orchard frequently visited<br />
by Redstarts, flycatchers and a variety of warblers,<br />
especially during migration. Further on, near the<br />
pines on the left, look for Cirl Buntings and<br />
Wrynecks. Next are gates to a private estate<br />
– access is allowed, but do not linger on the<br />
private property. Beyond them, follow testing<br />
but not difficult mountain paths towards<br />
the sea, keeping an eye out for Booted<br />
Eagles, Black and Griffon Vultures,<br />
Peregrines and Ravens, while Blue Rock<br />
Thrushes use the many prominent<br />
ledges and boulders as perches.<br />
éé BIRDS<br />
Above: Booted Eagle,<br />
Below: Black Vulture<br />
é A WORLD APART<br />
The scenery of the north is quite<br />
different from the beach resort<br />
image many have of Mallorca<br />
ê FORMETNOR<br />
Viewing tower at the spectacular<br />
Cap de Formentor<br />
Juanvi Carrasco / Alamy<br />
12 Birding in North Mallorca<br />
birdwatching.co.uk 13
BIRDING IN<br />
<strong>NORTH</strong><br />
<strong>MALLORCA</strong><br />
Eleonora’s Falcon is a possibility here, too, as well<br />
as the likes of Golden Oriole in summer. You can<br />
easily bird most of the valley in around three<br />
hours, walking at an easy pace.<br />
TERNELLES<br />
VALLEY<br />
On the road to Soller, just outside Pollença, this<br />
reserve is made up of a mountain pathway giving<br />
access to sea cliffs and the Castell Del Rei.<br />
It’s an excellent area to watch during migration<br />
periods, with Montagu’s Harrier, Hobby, Honey<br />
Buzzard and migrating birds including Montagu’s<br />
Harrier, Hobby and Honey Buzzard all passing<br />
through, while Pallid Swift, Crag Martin, Balearic<br />
Warbler and Sardinian Warbler should also be<br />
among your targets.<br />
In winter, Raven, Firecrest, Brambling and<br />
Hawfinch are all possible here. Access is by permit<br />
only, available from the tourist office in Pollença,<br />
and there are no facilities – the paths are also<br />
harder than some, so take appropriate clothing<br />
and plenty of water.<br />
MORTITX<br />
This reserve, south of Pollença, sits among<br />
vineyards – there’s a wide and easy public<br />
footpath to the reserve, through woodland, with<br />
good views of the mountains throughout, and a<br />
detailed map at the entrance to the reserve proper.<br />
All those Mallorca montane specials – Black<br />
Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Booted Eagle and Blue<br />
Rock Thrush – are present, and in summer, it’s<br />
a good site at which to find Wrynecks.<br />
The path leads to the Ses Basses viewpoint,<br />
looking out over steep sea cliffs, allowing you to<br />
do some seawatching, while at all times you<br />
should be on the lookout for the recently<br />
reintroduced Bonelli’s Eagle – please report any<br />
sightings of these.<br />
LLUC MONASTERY<br />
Heading along the road from Pollença to Soller,<br />
look for the sign to this historic site, which is the<br />
main centre for starting walking or birding tours<br />
of the mountains. There’s a bar, an excellent<br />
restaurant, and tourist accommodation available<br />
All those Mallorca montane specials, Black Vulture,<br />
in the former monks’ cells.<br />
Firecrests and Wrynecks are possibilities from<br />
the car park, plus Nightingales, while Black and<br />
Griffon Vultures and Booted Eagles should be<br />
easily found, soaring above. Buses run to the<br />
monastery from Port Alcudia once a day, leaving<br />
at 9am and returning at 5pm (but check the<br />
timetable for changes). There’s also a botanical<br />
garden (entrance free).<br />
CUBER RESERVOIR<br />
On the road from Pollença to Soller, this reservoir<br />
has ample car parking and well-marked footpaths<br />
(although no toilets), and the birding starts pretty<br />
much immediately that you’ve arrived.<br />
Black and Griffon Vultures can be seen<br />
overhead, plus Booted Eagles and Eleonora’s<br />
Falcons, and Ospreys are always a possibility too.<br />
Cirl Buntings and Blue Rock Thrushes are<br />
widespread here, and it’s a good place to look for<br />
the cryptically patterned Wryneck, foraging for<br />
ants. Spectacled and Subalpine Warblers are also<br />
present, and migrants such as Redstarts,<br />
Wheatears and wagtails of all sorts pass through<br />
on migration.<br />
éé SA GUBIA<br />
There are many great places to<br />
explore in north Mallorca<br />
é BARRANC DE BINIARAIX<br />
One of the most spectacular<br />
walking routes in the Mallorcan<br />
mountains<br />
ê SELVA<br />
An attractive village set against the<br />
backdrop of the Serra de<br />
Tramuntana range<br />
êê S’ESTACA<br />
VALLDEMOSSA<br />
Another hidden gem, be it bird<br />
or village, is always just around<br />
the corner<br />
êêê CHILL OUT<br />
Enjoy the view, enjoy the birds, and<br />
relax in style in the lovely<br />
Mediterranean sunshine<br />
Griffon Vulture Booted Eagle and Blue Rock Thrush are present... and look for Wrynecks<br />
FACTFILE<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Puerto Pollensa: La Gola reserve is right in the<br />
town of Puerto Pollensa – you can easily walk<br />
around its woodland, scrub and lake each day in<br />
search of birds, including a variety of herons.<br />
Pollença: A few miles west, has a more<br />
traditional feel, and is small enough to walk<br />
around in a morning. Hotels include the<br />
five-star Son Brull, one of Mallorca’s best.<br />
Soller: Just inland from the north-west coast.<br />
Visit the Jardin Botanic and the Museu Balear<br />
de Ciencies, a natural science museum, and the<br />
striking Esglesia de Sant Bartomeu.<br />
Alcudia: Retains its medieval walls, narrow,<br />
cobbled streets, many historic buildings.<br />
GETTING AROUND<br />
Public transport is very cheap. The Airport Bus<br />
runs to Palma every 15 minutes. If you are not<br />
staying in the city or the port, get off the bus at<br />
the Plaza d’Espanya, go down the steps past<br />
the train departures to the bus station, used by<br />
the red and yellow TIB buses. The 340 bus to<br />
Puerto Pollensa takes just over an hour and<br />
costs only €6. It usually leaves from bay 14.<br />
OTHER THINGS TO TRY<br />
Visit Deia: This idyllic village was the home of<br />
Robert Graves, poet and author of I Claudius.<br />
The views are wonderful, and you can walk<br />
down to Cala Deia, a small shingle beach in an<br />
attractive cove. It boasts two restaurants (open<br />
only in the summer season), with fresh fish as<br />
their speciality. There are plenty of walking trails<br />
in the hills above the village.<br />
Walking: Spring and autumn are ideal times for<br />
walkers, although summer walks include some<br />
along the Boquer Valley. There’s a good walk<br />
over the mountains to Cala Vincent, with<br />
fantastic views of Cala Carbo – you’ll find a<br />
couple of lovely bars by the water’s edge<br />
serving food.<br />
Another great walk starts just off the<br />
Formentor Road at Casa Velles. Park on the left<br />
and walk through the woods on the opposite<br />
side to Cala Murta, a lovely quiet cove. Close<br />
by, walk from the Formentor road to the tower<br />
of Albercutx.<br />
Park at the first mirador, and the road to the<br />
tower is opposite on the right. There are<br />
spectacular views of Puerto Pollensa and<br />
Alcudia in the distance.<br />
Watersports: Scuba diving is popular around<br />
Puerto Pollensa. Also very popular in the<br />
harbour is kiteboarding. There is a kite and surf<br />
school halfway between Puerto Pollensa and<br />
Alcudia which has a large range of equipment<br />
and is located directly opposite the beach<br />
where most of these sports takes place.<br />
At the harbour, as well as jet skis, there<br />
are yachts and catamarans, all of<br />
which can be hired and<br />
enjoyed.<br />
Cycling: Mallorca<br />
is a favourite<br />
destination for both<br />
leisure and<br />
professional cyclists,<br />
but you can just as easily, simply use a bike as a<br />
means to explore the island.<br />
More ambitious cyclists go to Cap Formentor,<br />
a very demanding route. There is a small café at<br />
the first mirador, frequently used for its<br />
spectacular views.<br />
There are numerous rental shops in the ports,<br />
but prices vary, so shop around.<br />
Eat and drink local: North Mallorca has<br />
excellent restaurants, bars and vineyards, so<br />
make sure you take the chance to sample the<br />
local cuisine, which not surprisingly features<br />
seafood heavily. Restaurant Jardin, in Alcudia,<br />
has an international reputation, and chef-owner<br />
Macarena De Castro is the proud possessor of<br />
a Michelin star, so it is certainly worth a visit!<br />
Website: enjoymallorca.com/destinations<br />
BOCQUER CAP DU<br />
PORT DE SA<br />
FORMENTOR<br />
POLLENÇA<br />
CALOBRA<br />
VINYES MORTITX<br />
ALCUDIA<br />
TRAMUNTANA<br />
SOLLER<br />
DEIA<br />
VALLDEMOSSA<br />
PALMA<br />
LLUC<br />
14 Birding in North Mallorca<br />
birdwatching.co.uk 15
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