Allure Vanguard 10 July 2016 Edition

L-R: H.A. Kwajaffa, Funmi Ladipo, Dapo Adelegan, Ronke Ademiluyi, Stephen Dutton, Folake Oyemade & Johannes Flosbach
AFWN:
Charting A Way On The Thorny
Path To Manufacturing
By - Jemi Ekunkunbor
The entire value chain of garment production
came under searchlight recently. The
chain is not what it used to be. From cotton
production to fabric manufacturing and
garment production, the testimony is bleak. The days
were when the textile industry in Nigeria was a major
employer of labour and and source of income to
government. But things have since fallen apart, with
many of the textile companies folded up and the few
existing ones struggling to survive in the face of local
challenges and foreign competitions.
Garment producers such as the fashion designers
have not fared well either. Not a few of them have
been able to lift themselves to the level of mass
producing.
Despite the bleak situation on ground, the Bank of
industry has recently, dedicated about 30 Billion Naira
to support the fashion industry.
It was in a bid to chat a way forward, that a one day
manufacturing conference was convenend as part of
activities marking the 3rd edition of the African Fashion
Week Nigeria. The event which took place at Eko
Hotel And Suites, brought together stakeholders in the
garment manufacturing value chain to examine the
challenges and profer solutions to the problems.
The conference was themed, “Making Nigeria the
Fashion Hub of Africa”.
Convener of the conference, Ronke Ademiluyi,
while recalling her growing up years in Nigeria,
noted that there were more textile companies then
than now. “ We just want to encourage and kick
start manufacturing in Nigeria. We feel that if a lot of
things are manufactured in Nigeria, it would help the
economy and there will be a lot of job creation and
here, we are talking about raw materials as well as
production of finished garments. If we are able to kick
start the manufacturing industry, it will help boost the
economy”
Although Guest speaker, Mrs Aisha Abubakar -
State Minister, Industry, Trade and Investment,
pointed out that job creation as well as provision of
enabling environment for business Is key to president
Muhammadu Buhari’s administration, the reality on
ground is quite different.
Speaking on the “ Challenges in the manufacturing
Industry”, acting DG, Nigeria Manufacturers
Association of Nigeria, Mr H.A. Kwajaffa, said although
Nigeria prides itself as the biggest in Africa, Nigeria
has the highest tarrif in Africa making it difficult to
compete both locally and internationally. Amongst the
challenges he listed are: non mechanisation of cotton
farms, porous borders, challenge from Asians who now
have about 95% market share, high cost of financing.
All these activities he said have caused a decline in
employment generation.
On the way forward, he called on Nigerians to
patronise made in Nigeria goods as this will help grow
Nigerian industries.
Boss of Sam Sara, Mrs Folake Oyebade, with more
than 25 years experience in the industry didn’t have
a cheery tale to give. The inability to of designers to
mass produce, remains a major obstacle to them
being able to export. Although she was able to break
this glass ceiling by exporting finished garments to the
USA, “ we were unable to make profit” due to the high
cost of production in Nigeria.
She urged government to back policies with action by
encouraging indigenous companies such as Sam Sara
to take over production of uniforms for the Nigerian
Armed forces.
But as we found out at the conference, having a
made-in Nigeria product does not solve the entire
problem. The Nigerian consumer has developed
a knack for foreign goods that a high quality made
in Nigeria product may not even help change their
minds. According to Dr. Johannes Flosbach, Head
of Performance Management Group (TGI Group),
he noted that although most of the products made
here are of high quality, once when they tried with
one of their products and labelled it made in Nigeria, “
patronage dropped”
Both president of the Fashion Designers Association
(FADAN) Mrs Funmi Ajila- Ladipo and Mr Akintunde
Oyebode -Special Adviser for Job Office of the
Lagos State Governor, agreed that the value chain
be tweaked for manufacturers to be truly productive.
According to Mr Oyebode, skills and talents to harness
opportunities abound in Nigeria but a the manufacturer
must decide on one aspect of the value chain to
concentrate on, what Mrs Ajila Ladipo described as
“sub skills”. He encouraged manufacturers to focus on
lines that link hubs to manufacturing centres and fix
standards for production and products.
Re emphasizing the place of the value chain, DG,
Nigerian-German Business Association, Jennifer
Ijeoma Anoyika, cited the case of Zara, the popular
brand that adopted the value chain system of thinking.
According to her, this system is about starting with the
consumer. Manufacturers should make the effort to find
out what the consumer wants and stay in relationship
with them.
On the way forward, Commissioner for Finance Lagos
State, Dr. Mustapha Akinkunmi said that although the
textile and clothing industry provide income and jobs
as well as lay the foundation for sustainable economic
development, he pointed out that our love for foreign
clothes is killing our industries. According to him, “our
country must not be used as dumping ground for
foreign made goods”
He also called on Nigerians to take pride in the use
of local fabrics such as adire, aso oke and ankara
especially in hotels and schools. He urged Nigerians to
continue to do this “until we are noticed internationally”.
He urged Designers to get education on emerging
markets and specifically, strategize to take over malls
to sell African inspired garments.
He said for the textile industry to succeed, these issues
must be addressed.
He revealed plans by the Lagos State government to
establish a Fashion Science Department at the Lagos
State University (LASU).
As the conference came to a close, only time will tell if
stakeholders in the textile and garment industry, would
be able to surmount the many thorns on the path to
manufacturing.
July 10, 2016 / 11