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Catherynne Valente<br />

Laura Marjorie Miller<br />

traps piled along the shoreline. “I hadn’t even lived here a year,<br />

yet one thing that really struck me was how in winter, the snow<br />

collects in them, so they look like snow cages, meant to capture<br />

the snow. Then in the spring, flowers come through them, and<br />

it looks like you’ve been fishing for flowers.”<br />

Valente’s favorite features of the island reflect the array<br />

of its natural and cultural history. She takes us on a tour of<br />

Battery Steele, a World War II fortification on the ocean<br />

side of the island. When you first see it, Battery Steele is an<br />

imposing blockade built into the side of a hill that yawns its<br />

maw at you from the wetland surrounding it. But inside is a<br />

warren of chambers that every year at harvest-moon time is<br />

gloriously transfigured by the islanders into a combination of<br />

art installation, performance, and ritual space for a festival<br />

called Sacred and Profane. One year, for example, Valente<br />

explains, three redheaded women floated nearby in a wooden<br />

boat, singing “The Lady of Shalott.” And every year, this raw<br />

concrete cave is beautified with brightly colored graffiti of the<br />

highest caliber.<br />

“Battery Steele is constantly changing,” Valente says. “It’s a<br />

palimpsest. Some of that graffiti is really old, and some of it, I<br />

know at which festival it got added. There is always something<br />

new on the walls.” She describes her favorite graffiti: a passage<br />

from C.S. Lewis’s Out of the Silent Planet, and a quotation she<br />

herself wrote out from Mike Ford’s “Sonnet: Against Entropy,”<br />

which we can’t get to at the moment because that room is<br />

flooded. As we explore the dark passages, our flashlights<br />

illuminate modern cave paintings that leap out at us in bursts.<br />

“Some of the graffiti is really cool, by art students,” says Valente,<br />

“and some is like “Van Halen 1984!!!” and I love that.”<br />

Peaks Island is a compact world full of such juxtapositions of<br />

art, history, and even microclimate. The part of the island that<br />

faces the Atlantic is primordial Maine coast, boasting a geologic<br />

feature called the Whaleback—a twisting spine of rock that<br />

surges from the ocean like a stranded whale. Yet Peaks’s interior<br />

is thick forest, where sea crows gather at night. At the base of<br />

some trees you can find piles of gleaming shells left over from the<br />

mussels that the crows gather and shuck in the branches.<br />

Valente rattles off some of her other favorite features. “I love<br />

the back shore,” she says. “There is a little beach there that is<br />

not there at high tide, only at low tide. I love the very, very end<br />

of the boat dock at sunset—I like to take picnics there in the<br />

summer.” The Puritan names in the graveyards intrigue her—<br />

Thankful Griffin is one, a woman with a first name to evoke a<br />

virtue—as do the barrow mounds that shelter some of the dead,<br />

for the soil is often too rocky here to dig a deep grave.<br />

As homey as Peaks is, Valente has to leave it often to go<br />

dashing around the country and globe on book tours. The<br />

Fairyland novels have strong elements of travel narrative, with<br />

September encountering different characters, cultures, and even<br />

dimensions within that parallel universe. So what is the author’s<br />

feeling when she goes traveling?<br />

“I like to have days off in various cities, which is wonderful<br />

for feeling like you’ve gone somewhere,” she answers. “On the<br />

last tour I went to Petoskey, Michigan, the furthest north you<br />

can go without being on the Upper Peninsula. It’s not even<br />

near an airport—you have to drive an hour to get there. This<br />

is the first time in my life I’d boarded a plane to a place that I<br />

didn’t know where it was: Traverse City. But I felt like I did get<br />

a sense of Petoskey. The bookstore people insisted I go eat at<br />

this particular restaurant, which is the nice restaurant in town.”<br />

Valente describes an awkward yet ultimately connecting moment<br />

with the kids at the reading: “I was talking about my office at<br />

the Umbrella Cover Museum, and I started explaining what<br />

‘the season’ was. And they just gave me a look, like, Why is she<br />

explaining what a season is to us? And I realized it was literally insane<br />

to explain this concept to them. ‘Oh, right! You are on the Great<br />

Lakes, and you have the season too!’” She laughs at the memory<br />

and at herself.<br />

There are many more places in the world Valente wants<br />

to explore: Andalusia in Spain, Poland, Argentina, and<br />

Newfoundland—particularly Ironbound Island, with its<br />

“amazing Game of Thrones name.” And Maine itself, vast and<br />

wild state that it is, beckons with much more to offer: “I want to<br />

go way up north, to Bucksport, where the sun hits the U.S. for<br />

the first time.”<br />

There truly is magic everywhere. But far from being an<br />

escape, travel in Valente’s fairy realm is laced with responsibility<br />

and presence, learned from places the author has lived and from<br />

places dear to her. There are natural laws with consequences<br />

by which even the fairies, larking and dazzling, must abide, as<br />

well as humans. The residents of Peaks keep raised gardens, for<br />

example, because of the heavy metals left behind after World<br />

War II, when the soldiers, rather than convey much of their<br />

equipment back off the island, ground it up and distributed it<br />

into the soil. And in Western Australia, where Valente’s partner<br />

Heath Miller hails from, there is a high rate of skin cancer<br />

because of the hole in the ozone layer directly above.<br />

“We broke the sky,” states Valente solemnly. “And we’re<br />

probably not going to be able to do anything to fix it. We<br />

humans have a very fairy mindset in many ways, that everything<br />

is for our use and our amusement. And I think that we access<br />

that Unseelie side more than we access the Seelie side, the goodmagic<br />

part of ourselves. And I think that is very sad.”<br />

Valente’s fairies are fundamentally alien creatures, who started<br />

out as frogs yet evolved by stealing the best parts of other species:<br />

If you have something and they want it and can take it, why<br />

not? So they help themselves to physical attributes, to talents, to<br />

magic from other worlds. When put like that, the notorious fairy<br />

amorality does not seem so alien after all.<br />

“I wanted them to be just human enough that I could say<br />

something about our world with them. I wanted to address<br />

colonialism through fairies—I wanted to use fairies to access<br />

that relationship,” says Valente. With changelings and otherwise,<br />

“they seem to enjoy messing with human hierarchies and<br />

replacing them with something entirely their own”—not too<br />

unlike a colonial Mainer claiming the sea from a native merman.<br />

Just like the ecology of Fairyland needs both light and shadow,<br />

in Valente’s writing, a sense of purpose is inextricable from<br />

beauty, play, optimism, and joy. “There is a huge responsibility<br />

in writing for children,” she says, “because you are shaping the<br />

psyches of actual people. If you think about the books you read<br />

as a kid, they had a tremendous effect, from what you went on<br />

to do for a living to what you sought to fill your life with. And if<br />

I can say something about the way we treat the earth, in a way<br />

that’s just cloaked enough … Fairy stories have always given us a<br />

way to talk about those things.”<br />

Follow Catherynne Valente’s Twitter doings @catvalente. Her blog writings<br />

can be found at catherynnemvalente.com and the Peaks Island ferry schedule<br />

at cascobaylines.com.<br />

Laura Marjorie Miller writes about travel, magic, myth, ocean conservation,<br />

the arts, and other soulful subjects. Her work has appeared in such places<br />

as Parabola, Utne Reader, Yankee Magazine, and The Boston<br />

Globe. Find her on Twitter @bluecowboyyoga.<br />

Find out more about Brittany Rae Photography at<br />

brittanyraephotography.com.<br />

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faeriemag.com faeriemag.com<br />

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