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KIMCHI AND KEFIR<br />

COCONUT WATER<br />

WHEATGRASS<br />

BILLBOCH/GETTY<br />

Kimchi is a Korean side dish made of fermented<br />

cabbage; kefir is a fermented milk drink from the<br />

Caucasus mountains in eastern Europe. These<br />

and other fermented foods have been around<br />

for centuries, only to suddenly receive acclaim as<br />

microbiome-balancing paragons of dietary virtue.<br />

Some of their powers are put down to the<br />

fermentation process, in which bacteria partially<br />

digest the food, releasing a greater hit of nutrients.<br />

Indeed it seems to improve the availability of iron,<br />

essential for making red blood cells: one recent study<br />

in humans showed greater absorption of iron from<br />

fermented mixed vegetables than fresh ones.<br />

The biggest health claim, however, is the<br />

supposed effects on your gut microbiome – the<br />

billions of bacteria that reside in your intestines,<br />

quietly regulating all kinds of bodily functions. The<br />

idea is that the fermentation process increases<br />

the numbers of beneficial bacteria naturally present<br />

in the food and, when you eat it, in your body.<br />

Animal studies suggest that fermented foods<br />

might encourage a healthy mix of microbes in the<br />

gut. Adding kefir to the diets of mice, for instance,<br />

increased the population of beneficial bacteria like<br />

Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium in their intestines<br />

and reduced potentially harmful ones.<br />

However, John Cryan of University College Cork<br />

in Ireland, who studies the gut microbiome, urges<br />

caution when it comes to the benefits for humans.<br />

Fermented foods do look as if they could benefit gut<br />

flora, he says, but what this does for your health is<br />

not clear. “It’s early days,” he says.<br />

VERDICT: May be good for gut bacteria.<br />

When it comes to hydration, what could<br />

be better than water? The clear liquid<br />

tapped from young, green coconuts has<br />

been dubbed “nature’s sports drink”.<br />

But two recent studies comparing it<br />

with isotonic sports drinks and ordinary<br />

water found no difference in terms of<br />

how well they hydrated volunteers<br />

after vigorous exercise.<br />

The claims for coconut water appear to<br />

rest on the idea that its higher potassium<br />

levels enhance water absorption. That<br />

doesn’t stand up: according to another<br />

recent study, neither coconut water nor a<br />

potassium-rich sports drink scored higher<br />

on fluid retention than water. Besides, you<br />

shouldn’t have any problem absorbing<br />

water so long as your diet contains<br />

adequate amounts of salt.<br />

VERDICT: No better than water.<br />

“Theideaisthat<br />

fermentedcabbage<br />

increasesthenumber<br />

ofbeneficialbacteria<br />

livinginyourgut”<br />

JELENASTOJIC/ALAMYSTOCKPHOTO<br />

Fans of the wheatgrass shot, the darkgreen<br />

juice squeezed from the young<br />

shoots of wheat, insist that it will flood<br />

your tissues with oxygen. The story goes<br />

that chlorophyll, the compound that plants<br />

use to make sugars via photosynthesis,<br />

is structurally similar to haemoglobin,<br />

the protein in red blood cells that carries<br />

oxygen around the body. So as there is<br />

more chlorophyll in wheatgrass shoots than<br />

in other edible plants, you get more oxygen.<br />

It’s nonsense. Chlorophyll is found in<br />

similar concentrations in many green<br />

vegetables. More to the point, there is<br />

no evidence to support the idea that<br />

chlorophyll functions anything like<br />

haemoglobin. Even if it did, it wouldn’t<br />

get into the bloodstream because<br />

chlorophyll gets broken down in the gut.<br />

VERDICT: Whole shot of nonsense.<br />

BEETROOT UICE<br />

No longer just soaked in vinegar and served from<br />

a jar, beetroot is now lauded as a blood-pressure<br />

lowering, metabolism-revving superfood. The main<br />

do-gooders are said to be nitrates. These are<br />

converted into nitrites by saliva and then pass<br />

through the stomach, where they are converted into<br />

nitric oxides – compounds that relax blood vessels.<br />

Indeed, studies have shown that dietary nitrate<br />

brings down blood pressure and improves circulation.<br />

It might even jump-start your gym routine: one study<br />

found that a 500-millilitre glug of beetroot juice per<br />

day, containing 400 milligrams of nitrate, improves<br />

exercise performance, buying people an extra<br />

90 seconds of intense exercise before exhaustion.<br />

Maybe don’t overdo it, though. The European<br />

Food Safety Authority (EFSA) puts the safe limit for<br />

dietary nitrate intake at around 260 mg per day for an<br />

average adult – that’s equivalent to two whole beets<br />

or one 300 ml glass of beetroot juice. The main<br />

concern is that if nitrites combine with protein in the<br />

stomach, they could potentially form nitrosamines,<br />

which may contribute to gastric cancers. The link is<br />

not proven, and adding vitamin C may prevent the<br />

formation of nitrosamines. Even so, Collins says it<br />

might be possible to have too much of a good thing.<br />

On balance, nitrates are a good addition to<br />

your diet and beetroot is a great source. As ever,<br />

though, there are plenty of alternatives out there:<br />

lettuce, rocket and other leafy vegetables are<br />

perfectly good sources too.<br />

VERDICT: Good stuff, just don’t overdo it.<br />

6 <strong>August</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | <strong>New</strong><strong>Scientist</strong> | 31

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