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KIMCHI AND KEFIR<br />
COCONUT WATER<br />
WHEATGRASS<br />
BILLBOCH/GETTY<br />
Kimchi is a Korean side dish made of fermented<br />
cabbage; kefir is a fermented milk drink from the<br />
Caucasus mountains in eastern Europe. These<br />
and other fermented foods have been around<br />
for centuries, only to suddenly receive acclaim as<br />
microbiome-balancing paragons of dietary virtue.<br />
Some of their powers are put down to the<br />
fermentation process, in which bacteria partially<br />
digest the food, releasing a greater hit of nutrients.<br />
Indeed it seems to improve the availability of iron,<br />
essential for making red blood cells: one recent study<br />
in humans showed greater absorption of iron from<br />
fermented mixed vegetables than fresh ones.<br />
The biggest health claim, however, is the<br />
supposed effects on your gut microbiome – the<br />
billions of bacteria that reside in your intestines,<br />
quietly regulating all kinds of bodily functions. The<br />
idea is that the fermentation process increases<br />
the numbers of beneficial bacteria naturally present<br />
in the food and, when you eat it, in your body.<br />
Animal studies suggest that fermented foods<br />
might encourage a healthy mix of microbes in the<br />
gut. Adding kefir to the diets of mice, for instance,<br />
increased the population of beneficial bacteria like<br />
Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium in their intestines<br />
and reduced potentially harmful ones.<br />
However, John Cryan of University College Cork<br />
in Ireland, who studies the gut microbiome, urges<br />
caution when it comes to the benefits for humans.<br />
Fermented foods do look as if they could benefit gut<br />
flora, he says, but what this does for your health is<br />
not clear. “It’s early days,” he says.<br />
VERDICT: May be good for gut bacteria.<br />
When it comes to hydration, what could<br />
be better than water? The clear liquid<br />
tapped from young, green coconuts has<br />
been dubbed “nature’s sports drink”.<br />
But two recent studies comparing it<br />
with isotonic sports drinks and ordinary<br />
water found no difference in terms of<br />
how well they hydrated volunteers<br />
after vigorous exercise.<br />
The claims for coconut water appear to<br />
rest on the idea that its higher potassium<br />
levels enhance water absorption. That<br />
doesn’t stand up: according to another<br />
recent study, neither coconut water nor a<br />
potassium-rich sports drink scored higher<br />
on fluid retention than water. Besides, you<br />
shouldn’t have any problem absorbing<br />
water so long as your diet contains<br />
adequate amounts of salt.<br />
VERDICT: No better than water.<br />
“Theideaisthat<br />
fermentedcabbage<br />
increasesthenumber<br />
ofbeneficialbacteria<br />
livinginyourgut”<br />
JELENASTOJIC/ALAMYSTOCKPHOTO<br />
Fans of the wheatgrass shot, the darkgreen<br />
juice squeezed from the young<br />
shoots of wheat, insist that it will flood<br />
your tissues with oxygen. The story goes<br />
that chlorophyll, the compound that plants<br />
use to make sugars via photosynthesis,<br />
is structurally similar to haemoglobin,<br />
the protein in red blood cells that carries<br />
oxygen around the body. So as there is<br />
more chlorophyll in wheatgrass shoots than<br />
in other edible plants, you get more oxygen.<br />
It’s nonsense. Chlorophyll is found in<br />
similar concentrations in many green<br />
vegetables. More to the point, there is<br />
no evidence to support the idea that<br />
chlorophyll functions anything like<br />
haemoglobin. Even if it did, it wouldn’t<br />
get into the bloodstream because<br />
chlorophyll gets broken down in the gut.<br />
VERDICT: Whole shot of nonsense.<br />
BEETROOT UICE<br />
No longer just soaked in vinegar and served from<br />
a jar, beetroot is now lauded as a blood-pressure<br />
lowering, metabolism-revving superfood. The main<br />
do-gooders are said to be nitrates. These are<br />
converted into nitrites by saliva and then pass<br />
through the stomach, where they are converted into<br />
nitric oxides – compounds that relax blood vessels.<br />
Indeed, studies have shown that dietary nitrate<br />
brings down blood pressure and improves circulation.<br />
It might even jump-start your gym routine: one study<br />
found that a 500-millilitre glug of beetroot juice per<br />
day, containing 400 milligrams of nitrate, improves<br />
exercise performance, buying people an extra<br />
90 seconds of intense exercise before exhaustion.<br />
Maybe don’t overdo it, though. The European<br />
Food Safety Authority (EFSA) puts the safe limit for<br />
dietary nitrate intake at around 260 mg per day for an<br />
average adult – that’s equivalent to two whole beets<br />
or one 300 ml glass of beetroot juice. The main<br />
concern is that if nitrites combine with protein in the<br />
stomach, they could potentially form nitrosamines,<br />
which may contribute to gastric cancers. The link is<br />
not proven, and adding vitamin C may prevent the<br />
formation of nitrosamines. Even so, Collins says it<br />
might be possible to have too much of a good thing.<br />
On balance, nitrates are a good addition to<br />
your diet and beetroot is a great source. As ever,<br />
though, there are plenty of alternatives out there:<br />
lettuce, rocket and other leafy vegetables are<br />
perfectly good sources too.<br />
VERDICT: Good stuff, just don’t overdo it.<br />
6 <strong>August</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | <strong>New</strong><strong>Scientist</strong> | 31