Singer W1202, W1213 - English - User Manual

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34 

Needle — 

Cabinet 4 

Upper Threading 6 

Lower Threading 5 

— 

Thread 

Fabric 

IV. Choosine the Right Needle 7 — 

Winding the Bobbin 5 

LII. Preparing Machine to Sew 5 

— 

6 

9 

L. Features and Parts.I 

— 

3 

2 

Freehand Monogramming 20 

Applique 20 

Gathering Over a Cord 21 

Preparation 22 

Turn-around Buttonhole 23 

S 31 

.:e: 

Table of Contents page 

Corded Buttonhole 24 

Built-in Buttonhole 22 

IX. Buttonholes 22—24 

Flutter Hem 21 

Lace Application 21 

page 

VIII. Applications of the Zigzag Stitch 18—21 

VII. Applications of the Straight Stitch 17 

V. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine.. 10—14 

VI. HOW to Se.v 15—16 

Changing the Needle 9 

Changing the Needle Plate 9 

Types of Needles 7 

Portable Case 4 

II. I nstalln tion of Niachine Head 4 

Accessories 3 

Principle Parts I 

— 

Adjusting the Stitch 10—11 

Adjusting for the Fabric 12—13 

The Proper Presser Foot 14 

Pinning 15 

Placement of Fabric/Starting a Seam 15 

Guiding the Fabric 15 

Turning Corners 16 

Curved Seams 16 

Holding the Fabric 15 

Ending a Seam/Removal of Fabric 16 

Sewing Across Heavy Seams 16 

Seams 17 

Basting/Topstitching 17 

Darning 17 

Overcasting 18 

Elastic Thread Shirring 17 

Sewing on Buttons 18 

Seaming Knits 18 

Forming a Thread Shank 18 

Satin Stitching 19 

Taperinc 19 

The Embroidery Foot 14 

The Buttonhole Foot 14 

Stitch Length Dial 10 

Stitch Width Lever 10 

Reverse Button 10 

Stitch Width 10 

Needle Position 11 

Pattern Selector 11 

Relating Stitch Length to 

Tension Dial 13 

Pressure Control 12 

Adjusting the Tension 13 

The Straight Stitch Foot 14 

The All Purpose Foot 14 

Changing the Foot 14 

Feed Dog Control 12 

Etched Seam Guide 15 

Cloth Guide 15 

Presser Foot as a Guide 15 

Chart 8 

XVIII. Minor Problems and Their Solutions 37 

Cfl. Aaolications of the Straight Stretch 

XVII. Care and Maintenance of Your 

XII. Applications of the Overiock Stitch 29—30 

ciV. Appiicanons of tne .. 

XL Applications of the Multiple Stitch Ziezac. . .27—28 

XV. Use of the Accessories 32—33 

X. Applications of the Blind Hem Stitch 25—26 

Hemming 25 

Stretch Buttonhole 24 

Decorative Effects 26 

Shell Tuck 26 

Patching 27 

Overcasting 27 

Elastic Application 28 

Mending a Tear/Darning 27 

Understitching Facings 28 

Nylon Tricot Seams 29 

Seams 29 

Decorative Effects 28 

Applying Elastic 29 

Topstitching 30 

Hemstitching 30 

Topstitching 31 

Ladder Stitch 30 

Decorative Designs 32 

Yam and Cord Sewing 33 

Seams 31 

Stitch 31 

Elastic Application 31 

Seams 31 

Twin Needle Sewing Effects 32 

Changing Needles 35 

Cleaning 35 

Zipper Foot/Zippers/Cording 33 

Quilting Guide 33 

Overcast Foot 34 

Roller Foot 34 

Blind Hem Foot 34 

Rolled Hem Foot 34 

Fringe Foot 34 

Procedure for Oiling 35 

Changing the Light Bulb 36 

Sewing Machine 35—36 

Pin Tucks 32 

Manual Embroidery Designs 19

I. Features and Parts 

Principle Parts 

Picture Window 

pictures the stitches and allows for easy selection. 

Descriptive Tension 

regulates the amount of tension on the needle 

thread. 

N 

Take-Up 

regulates the flow of thread through the needle. 

It has an open-slot to simplify threading. The take 

up lever should always be in its highest position 

when beginning or ending sewing. 

Face 

opens to the left. Allows easy changing of the 

light bulb. 

Check Spring 

helps control the flow of thread through the 

needle. 

holds the needle in place. 

holds presser foot in place. 

Diamond Point Feed Dog 

moves the fabric after each stitch is formed. The 

diamond points give a gentle feed for delicate 

fabrics as well as an accurate feed for heavy 

fabrics. 

Presser Foot 

holds the fabric in place for sewing. Various feet 

are given in the accessory box. 

slides open for changing the bobbin. 

Slide Plate 

Needle Plate 

has guide lines on the left and right for greater 

sewing accuracy. 

Presser Foot Lever — 

controls the raising and lowering of the presser 

foot. It has an extra lift for the placement of 

heavy fabrics. 

Thread Cutter 

is located on the back of the presser bar for 

convenience. 

Spool Pins and Caps— 

hold all types of spools effectively and eliminates 

over-spin of lightweight spools.

Z 

(( 

selects the stitch shown above the indicator in the 

picture window. 

r Hand Wheel 

the up and down movement of the needle 

controls 

bar. Always turn it toward you. 

/ 

Coupling Wheel 

releases the movement of the needle bar in order 

to wind a bobbin. 

—Stitch Length Dial 

allows for precise adjustment of stitch length from 

very fine to very long. 

-Push Button Reverse 

allows for easy backtacking to lock thread ends. 

-Stitch Width Lever 

allows for precise adjustment of zigzag stitch 

width as well as tapering. 

Zigzag Width Lever Stops 

left lock determines the minimum width stitch, 

while right lock controls the maximum. 

Bobbin Winder 

automatically disengages from hand wheel when 

bobbin is filled to the proper level. 

—__ Power 

Switch 

turns on both the motor and light simultaneously. 

Allows selection of high or low speed. 

Bobbin Winder Tension Disk 

controls the tension on the thread as the bobbin 

is being wound. 

— 

-Needle Position Dial 

is variable and may be set in any position from the 

left to the right. 

adjusts the height of the lèed dog for special 

sewing applications. 

-Pressure Control 

controls the amount of pressure on the fabric. It is 

numbered to make adjustment easier. Normal 

pressure is # S. 

-Foot Ho’der 

holds the foot. it is easy to exchange the sole. 

I 

4 

________ 

2

easier. 

The bobbins have holes in 

in placement. 

one side for convenient bobb 

everytime. 

proper buttonhole length 

Is adjustable and regulates 

Four Metal Bobbins 

Buttonhole Foot 

sewing of lightweight fabrics. 

Has a wide groove on the 

use this foot for normal 

decorative stitches. Do not 

such as satin stitches or other 

to pass over dense stitches, 

bottom which allows the foot 

Embroidery Foot 

is needed. 

For straight stitching on 

materials where extra control 

sheer or very lightweight 

Straight Stitch Foot and 

Straight Needle Plate 

All Purpose Foot & Zigzag 

For all utility sewing. 

Needle Plate 

seams. 

Aids in creating straight 

Cloth Guide with Screw 

stitching. 

Helps make parallel rows of 

Quilting Guide 

tightly for best stitching re 

pins under the spools and 

Place felt washers on spool 

Caps 

Two Felt Washers and Spool 

place caps over the spools 

suits. 

les are also included. 

are provided. Two twin need 

Light ball point needles, two 

Needles 

each of sizes 11, 14 and 16 

Accessories 

ih 

M’ 

L 

6\ 

÷ 

Ilti 71117 1111111 1, 1111117 

WI-4ITEI Iij’.ii 

© 

with the following set of accessories to make your sewing 

Your new White Rotary sewing machine comes equipped 

Lint Brush 

For removing all lint. 

from the bobbin case. 

For easy removal of bobbin 

Bobbin Extractor 

stitches. 

buttonholes and for removing 

For cutting the openings in 

Seam Ripper 

See page 34. 

For use in oiling the machine. 

Tubed Oiler 

screw, etc. 

on thumb screw, needle clamp 

tension. Large one for use 

Small one for use on bobbin 

Screw Drivets 

edge of a cord or zipper. 

For stitching very close to the 

Cording and Zipper Foot 

stitching. 

To hold button in place for 

Button Sewing Foot

4 

•1 

.4. 

the clamping screws. 

table. On the underside of the back of the 

These enter the head hinge holes (B). Release 

Lay the sewing machine unit face down on a 

Portable Case 

II. Installation of Machine Head 

in the base. Plug cord labeled motor into the 

upright sewing position. Machine will snap 

(B). Tighten the clamping screws securely 

sewing machine are two clamping screws (A). 

with a screw driver. Place machine in an 

receptacle marked motor on the block attach 

Draw the two electrical leads through the slot 

These enter the head hinge holes (B). Release 

the clamping screws. 

correct position. 

the base, fitting the hinges (C) into the holes 

hinges (C). Lower the sewing machine onto 

On the base of the portable case are two head 

ed to the outer section of the base. Insert the 

under portable case clamp securing it in 

Insert plug into a wall outlet. (110-115 volts) 

other cord into the receptacle marked light. 

Cabinet 

On the cabinet are two head hinges (C). Tilt 

sewing machine are two clamping screws (A). 

(Hint: Stretch a rubber band across the two 

table. On the underside of the back of the 

Lay the sewing machine unit face down on a 

mounting the sewing machine unit.) 

them up and back as far as they will go. 

Carefully lower sewing machine onto the 

hinges to help hold them upright while 

head hinges, making sure to insert the hinges 

With the sewing machine in its tilted position, 

as far into the hinge holes as they will go. 

screw driver. 

tighten both clamping screws securely with a 

located inside the cabinet. Plug the cord 

Plug the electrical leads into the sockets 

provided connect the plug from the sewing 

machine to the connection leading from the 

labeled motor into the receptacle marked 

receptacle marked light. Insert plug into a 

the cabinet. Insert the other cord into the 

motor on the block attached to the inside of 

wall outlet. (110-115 volts) 

NOTE: Where three wire grounding is 

control. One prong is larger than the other 

three, eliminating the possibility of error. 

Insert plug into wall outlet. (110-115 volts) 

RcHTD

22 

the hook and be sure the bobbin rotates 

the slot and toward the left into the clearance 

Note: If the bobbin winds unevenly, adjust 

counter clockwise. Draw the thread through 

Drop the bobbin, with four holes on top, into 

Lower Threading 

(Fig. 24) 

Winding the Bobbin 

turn the hand wheel. 

bobbin winding tension disc to the right or 

left by loosening the screw and sliding it. 

place. The needle should now move when you 

IlL Preparing Machine to Sew 

Lift bobbin winder until it makes contact 

with the hand wheel. Hold thread end 

bobbin winder with the four holes of the 

bobbin facing to the right. Turn the bobbin 

tightly with your left hand and turning the 

Disengage the hand wheel by holding it 

securely and run machine slowly. Bobbin wifi 

until it clicks into place. 

hand. (Fig.21) Place spool on spool pin, 

coupling wheel toward you with your right 

loose thread end used to start the winding. 

thread through the single hole on one side of 

Tighten the coupling wheel by turning it away 

the bobbin, and place bobbin on spindle of 

stop turning when filled. Always break off 

from you as you hold the hand wheel in 

21 23 

as illustrated. (Fig. 23) Run the end of the 

until it holds the spool in place. Lead thread 

place spool cap over spool as shown (Fig. 22) 

leaving about one foot of thread free, then 

When disc is in proper position, tighten screw. 

between hook and spring. (Fig. 25) Put the 

Note: For satin stitching, drop the feed dogs 

thread through the notch at the end of the 

spring and leave the thread about three or 

notch above the window. Thread should cross 

four inches long. Close the slide plate 

allowing the thread to emerge through the 

from the left across the top of the bobbin. 

to down and slip the thread into the clip at 

the back of the hook. (Fig.26)

6 

29 

27 

28 

28) 

illustrated. Thread the needle from front to 

thread through the succeeding points as 

inches long. (Fig.29) 

take-up lever to its highest position. Presser 

or left leaving both threads about four 

foot and draw them toward either the right 

Place both thread ends under the presser 

3. Hold upper thread down on slide plate and 

1. Turn hand wheel toward you to raise the 

Upper Threading 

back and leave the thread about three or 

turn hand wheel toward you one complete 

four inches long. (Fig. 27) 

(Fig. 22) being sure to place the spool cap 

2. Lead thread from the spool as illustrated, 

foot should be in the raised position. 

revolution. Pull the loop which has been 

around toward the right until it emerges 

under the fmger like projection. Bring the 

formed through to the upper surface. (Fig. 

the thread between the tension discs and 

so that it holds the spool securely. Draw

IV. Choosing the Right Needle 

Types of Needles 

The correct selection of needle to suit the 

thread and fabric being sewn gives the best 

stitching results. Fine fabrics should be sewn 

with fine needles, heavier fabrics with heavier 

needles. For best results, sewing machine 

needles should be replaced when they become 

even slightly dull or bent or at the completion 

of every other garment. 

A regular needle is suggested for use with 

woven fabrics. Needles, style 15 x 1, (Euro 

pean equivalent System 705) are used on the 

majority of household sewing machines. They 

range in sizes from 8 to 20 with the lower 

number indicating the finer needle. The most 

commonly used sizes are 11 and 14. 

Long Groove 

Elongated Scarf 

Short Groove 

Eye— 

U 

A ball point needle is recommended for use 

with tricots, jerseys, lingerie and power nets. 

Unlike sharp, pointed needles, which pierce 

fibers of knit fabrics, destroying elasticity, the 

ball point slips between fibers, preventing 

damage to fabric and skipped stitches. These 

are available in fine, medium, and heavy ball 

points. 

Shaft— 

H 

Regular Sharp Needle 

A wedge point needle is recommended for use 

with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge 

cutting point pierces leather more easily than 

ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in 

more satisfactory stitching. 

Light Ball Point Needle 

An all purpose needle is designed to handle 

knits as well as woven fabrics. It eliminates 

skipped stitches and the slight ball will not 

damage delicate fabrics. This is the needle 

provided with your sewing machine and will 

be used for most of your sewing. A larger ball 

point may still be necescary for certain knits, 

such as bathing suit fabric or power net. 

Long 

Groove— 

IRound Side 

of Needle) 

Groove\ 

lFlat Side \ i 

of Needle) 

Eye 

Medium Ball Point Needle 

Wedge Point Needle 

Flat 

Point 

7

V 

V 

. straight 

V 9 

tVj 

—‘- 

V 

V - 

- 

Needle 

“Fabric 

Stitdjing 

t 

toe 

The correct selection of needle and thread to suit the 

fabric will result in more satisfactory stitching. Fine 

fabrics should be 8titched with fine needles, fine thread 

and short stitches. 

For best results on heavier fabrics, use coarser needles, 

heavier threads and longer stitches. Replace the 

machine needle when it becomes even slightly dull or bent. 

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Guide 

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US. Size European 

Mercerized European Silk 

, Point Style i Polyester 

15x! I 705 

fIt, Cotton Cotton Nylon 

- 

‘‘‘ ‘‘1j’i 

—— 

A-Silk 

LIGHTWEIGHT 9 70 LightBafl 20 10 60 50-70 NO 

Tncot, Power Net Nylon 

MEDIUM WEIGhT 

Light Ball to 

9-10 70-80 

KNITS Jersey, Double Knit, Power Net Medium Ball 12 9 50 30 YES 

A-Silk 

Nylon 

HEAVY WEIGHT Medium Ball to 

11-14 80-90 

Double Kntt, Power Net Heavy Ball 10-14 4-5 50 30 YES 

A-Silk 

Nylon 

RollerFoot 

Roller Foot 

Roller Foot 

FAKE FURS—VELOURS 14-16 90-100 Ball or Sharp 10 4-5 Heavy l)uty 30 YES NO Roller Foot 

.‘ee 

VERY ShEER 

A-Silk 

V 70 Sharp 16-18 10 60 70 NO 

Lace, Net, Chiffon, Voile Nylon 

A-Silk 

SHEER 9 70 Sharp 14-16 10 60 50-70 NO 

Lawn, Taffeta. Blouse Crepe, Organdy Nylon 

DRESS WEIGHT 

Crepe, Wool, Brocade, Velvet 

9-11 70-80 Sharp 12 9 50 30 NO A-Silk 

WOVEN MEDIUM 

Wool, Silk, Linen, Pique, 11 80 Sharp 12 7-8 50 30 NO A-Silk 

Faille, Velveteen, ‘renycloth 

H’ 

Duck, Sailcloth 

16 100 Sharp tO 6-7 Ileavy Duty 30 YES NO 

ET;sHtery 

Awning 

19 120 Sharp 8 3-4 Iteavy Duty 30 YES NO 

• 

V 

——- 

VINYLS—FILMS 14 90 Leather (Wedgel 10 7-8 50 30 YES NO Roller Foot 

LEATHER LIGHTTO MEDIUM WEIGHT 

14-16 90-100 Leather (Wedge) 8 3-4 50 30 YES NO Roller Foot 

HEAVY LEATHER 16-18 100-110 Leather (Wedgel 6-8 3 Heavy Duty 30 YES NO Roller Foot 

— 

— ———- 

MACHINE EMBROIDERY 9-I I 60-80 Cotton Embroidery Thread Size 50-70 

DECORATIVE 

STITC1-IING TOP STITCHING 16-18 100-110 Silk Buttonhole Twist Size D 

METALLIC EMBROIDERY II 80 Metallic Thread

©oil 

32 

-Ji 

., 

Changing the Needle 31 

Changing the Needle Plate 

To change the needle plate, simply slide the 

cover plate toward you. Remove the needle 

stitches will not form. 

garment especially when sewing on polyester 

Always change the needle after every other 

when the bobbin is put in from the front. If 

needle is placed to the back of the machine, 

damage both your fabric and the machine. 

the needle is inserted incorrectly, the 

A general rule when replacing sewing 

faster. When needles are dull or bent, they 

and nylon fabrics which dull needles much 

needle plate. Replace the needle plate. 

The needle plate is removed for cleaning the 

To change the needle 

machine needles is that the flat side of the 

lint which may pile up between the needle 

plate and the feed dogs. The straight stitch 

4. After changing the needle, make one 

3. Place needle (flat side to the back and 

2. Loosen needle clamp screw to remove 

and the presser foot. Remove the two screws 

holding the needle plate in place. Lift the 

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest 

needle plate is used for sewing very fine or 

soft materials. The zigzag needle plate can be 

used for almost all of the normal sewing. 

position by turning the hand wheel 

toward you. 

it will go, tighten clamp screw. 

long groove toward you) (Fig.31) in the 

by hand to be sure the needle is clearing 

needle clamp and push it upward as far as 

complete revolution of the hand wheel 

the needle. (Fig.3l) 

the needle plate. 

AD 

Toward You 

Long Groove

All 

Width — 

Foot — 

All 

Width — 

* 

All 

0 

M 

Pattern -— 

0—4 

This dial (Fig.33) controls the forward 

does the length of the stitch. Turn the blue 

blue line on the white button. 

dial so that the desired number is above the 

not feed at all. As the numbers increase so 

M 

Stitch Length Dial 

Adjusting the Stitch 

feeding of the fabric. At 0, the fabric does 

V. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine 

33 34 

1H11 

36 

I 

4 1 2 3 

Stop Lever Stop 

Width — 

Length — 

Foot — 

Pattern 

— 

Pressure — 

Length — 

Feed Dog — 

Pressure — 

Needle Position M 

Feed Dog — 

Length — 

Pattern - 

Prssir - 

Feed Dog — 

Needle Position — 

Needle Position 

— 

Foot — 

5 

High 

5 

0—4 

M 

Purpose 

5 

Fligh 

M 

0—5 

2 

M 

Purpose 

5 

High 

Purpose 

To backstitch, simply push the button in 

and hold for the desired number of stitches. 

The white button in the middle of the stitch 

Reverse Button 

length dial (Fig.33) will cause the feed dog 

to feed the fabric backwards. This button 

sewing to lock the threads. 

may be used at the beginning and end of 

It is advisable to tie thread ends instead of 

puckering. 

backstitching on soft sheer fabrics to avoid 

This lever (Fig.34) controls the swing of the 

Stitch Width Lever 

needle from left to right for various width 

of stitches. At 0 the needle does not swing, 

At 1, the needle takes a narrow swing 

therefore a straight line of sewing results no 

resulting in a narrow column of stitching. At 

matter which pattern is selected. 

a wide column of stitches. (Fig.35) 

5, the needle takes a large swing resulting in 

Slide the blue lever to the desired number 

and slide it over to the blue lever. The stop 

then push in the left hand stop (Fig. 34) 

will hold the lever in place. 

Relating Stitch Length to Stitea \iuth 

When the width lever is engaged at one 

particular width (such as 5), the stitch length 

dial will now control how close those stitches 

not move, resulting in a ball of stitches 

come together. At length 0, the fabric does 

in button sewing. At about length 1/4, the 

formed one on top of the other, as is used 

in a dense column of stitches called a satin 

feed pulls the fabric through slowly, resulting 

stitch. At length 4, a very long open zigzag 

results. (Fig.36)

11 

position. The stitches shown are as follows: 

Foot - 

31. 

3. Blindhem ( ) 

- 

stitches forward then a 

takes 

takes 

gives the standard straight stitch when 

Pattern - 

Foot - 

All 

All 

Width - 

37 

38 

Purpose 

Width - 

5 

5 

Length - 

2 

High 

M 

Pattern Selector 

This dial (Fig. 37) selects the stitch pattern 

4. Multiple stitch zigzag ( ) 

- 

to be made according to the pictures shown 

5. Overlock stitch ( ) 

- 

at the blue indicator. Turn the silver selector 

6. Ultra stretch stitch ( ) 

- 

to be formed will be shown in the top 

dial to the right and the picture of the stitch 

the needle is in the fabric because it will 

bend or break the needle. 

l’his dial controls the location of the needle 


1. M stands for manual position which 

in relation to the presser foot. (Fig. 38) 

Never move the needle position dial while 

The needle may be used in any position 

position. 

The etched guide lines on the needle plate 

Middle R - 

Right 

three positions are labeled. L -Left M - 

between the left and right even though only 

cotton knits. Use it at width 5 for 

as sweater knits, bathing suit, and 

then back on a diagonal. This stitch has 

stitch is never used on width 0. See page 

stitch is discussed on page 3 1. 

stitches 

wovens for ¼ inch seams on width 5, 

seam and overcast all in one operation. 

This is excellent on both knits and 

one stitch to the right to form a straight 

width 0. See page 29. Straight stretch 

to the left, one stitch backwards and then 

and for the straight stretch stitch at 

one stitch 

give a straight stitch, width 5 is the best 

ing as shown on pages 27. Width 0 will 

zigzag. 

overcasting, applying elastics and mend 

choice for use of the multiple stitch 

stitches from side to side for use in 

the greatest strength and elasticity and is 

excellent for loose or bulky knits, such 

completed ¼ inch seams on knits. This 

takes three 

will give the blind hem stitch. 

give a straight stitch, all other widths 

plications. See page 25. Width 0 will 

hemming, shell tucking, and other ap 

zigzag bite to the left for use in 

ed on page 22. 

for four step buttonholes to be explain 

2. Black boxes - indicate buttonhole steps 

when the width is engaged. 

the width is at 0 and the standard zigzag 

are measured from the needle in the middle 

Needle Position - 

Feed Dog - 

Pressure - 

Needle Position - L, M, R 

Feed Dog - 

Pattern - 

Length - 

Prui 5 

LQR L0R L0R 

High 

0-2 

2 

M 

Purpose 

M M M

Pressure - 

Width 

- 

Length - 

Pattern - 

Foot - 

Pattern 

- 

Foot - 

Purpose 

Purpose 

Needle Position - 

Feed Dog - 

Width 

— 

Length 

- 

All 

foot, the needle may be moved to get closer 

of the feed dog. 

Caution: When using the straight stitch foot 

the fabric through the machine, this lever 

position used for most sewing. 

therefore does not move the fabric at all. 

Normal pressure is 5. 

Pressure Control 

0 

40 

complete’y below the needle plate surface and 

J 

and best grip on the fabric. This is the 

needle can also be moved in relation to the 

materials and types of sewing. 

Feed Dog Control 

use the M position of the needle only. 

more convenient, as in topstitching. The 

When straight stitching with the all purpose 

to an edge or to make guiding of the fabric 

This lever (Fig.39) will raise or lower the feed 

dog as indicated. Since the feed dog carries 

39 

Ii:i I 

Pressure - 

Feed Dog - 

M 

2 

5 

5 

All 

M 

2 

0 

High 

M 

more gentle hold on the fabric. This position 

bulkier fabrics require less pressure to 

eliminate pushing on the top layer of fabric. 

This control (Fig. 40) regulates how heavily 

Down: In this position, the feed dog is 

High: For the greatest height of the feed dog 

is used for sewing delicate fabrics. 

Low: For less height of the feed dog and 

Adjusting for the Fabric 

lighter pressure. Zero gives no pressure. 

Lighter weight fabrics need more pressure for 

allows the feed to be regulated for various 

zipper foot in order to take full advantage 

numbered from 0-5 with .stops at the half-way 

points as well. The higher the number the 

the presser foot rests upon the fabric. It is 

heavier the pressure. The lower numbers give 

better hold against the feed, whereas heavier,

45 

AN 

turned with the small screw driver resting in 

adjust the top tension in relation to the red 

bobbin case. (Fig.42) This screw may be 

the presser foot is down for sewing. 

the left small screw on the front edge of the 

The bobbin thread tension is controlled by 

line, turning toward “loose” or “tight” as 

Tension Dial 

needed. The top tension is engaged only when 

41 42 

Adjusting the Tension 

The top tension (Fig.41) consists of discs 

the notch of the slide plate. Turn to the right 

The tensions may have to be adjusted for Pattern — 

to tighten and to the left to loosen. 

descriptive tension dial regulates how tightly 

between which the thread passes. The 

the thread is being held. When necessary, 

make sure that the machine is properly Width — 

certain fabrics. Before adjusting your tension Length -- 

use a double thickness and always sew on the 

bias when testing tension. 

size for the thread and fabric being sewn. (See Pressure — 

5 

top and bobbin. Use a new needle the correct Feed Dog — 

High 

threaded with identical thread on both Needle Position — 

chart page 8.) Foot — 

fabric you are using for construction. Always 

It is best to test the tension on a scrap of the 

The tensions are correct when the upper 

Adjust as follows: 

showing on top or bottom. (Fig. 43) 43 

the two layers of fabric with the ioops not 

thread and lower thread interlock between 

2. If top thread lays on the fabric with 

1. If the seam is puckered both top and 

3. If the bottom thread lays on the fabric 

tension is too tight. (Fig. 44) Loosen the 

top tension slightly. 

with the upper thread looping over it, top 

tension is too loose. (Fig. 45) Tighten 

top tension slightly. 

bobbin tensions are too tight. Loosen 

both tensions slightly. (Fig.43) 

bottom thread looping over it, the top 

44 Top Tension too tight 

Purpose 

M 

0 

2—3 

M 

Balanced Tension

-4 

47 

Step 3 

Step 1 

Step 2 

Pull presser foot shank lever toward you, to 

Changing the sole 

46 

48 

3) 

The Proper Presser Foot 

49 50 

your normal sewing so that you can use any 

stitch without changing the foot. This foot is 

will be locked in automatically. (Fig.46 Step 

lever onto the sole. (Fig.46 Step 2) Sole 

sole under shank and lower presser foot 

remove the sole. (Fig.46 Step 1) Place desired 

has a wide hole to accommodate wide 

stitches. This foot should be used for all of 

fine for straight stitching. (If fabric is pulled 

down with the needle, use left needle position 

The All Purpose Foot 

This foot (Fig.47) is flat on the bottom and 

This foot (Fig.48) has a wide groove carved 

The Embroidery Foot 

satin stitch without catching on the stitch. 

for more control.) 

foot to pass over dense stitches such as the 

out on the bottom. This groove allows the 

It is transparent to make stitch placement 

easier. Do not use this foot for normal sewing 

of lightweight fabrics. Since it is grooved, it 

produce a good stitch. 

will not hold the fabric taut enough to 

soft fabrics for more control when the all 

purpose foot allows the fabric to be pulled 

the width on “0” to avoid hitting the foot 

and breaking the needle. 

This foot (Fig.49) is flat on the bottom and 

The Straight Stitch Foot 

has only a narrow hole to accommodate only 

straight stitching. It may be used on sheer or 

holds the fabrics taut enough to produce a 

good buttonhole. 

with needle. When using this foot, the needle 

position should always be on “M”, and 

The Buttonhole Foot 

This foot (Fig.50) has a frame. This frame

hand basting. Place your pins at right angles 

the raw edge. It is possible to sew over pins, 

the presser foot. 

(Fig.56) 

All Purpose Foot — 

Straight Stitch Foot — 

a 1/4 inch seam, 

a 1/8 inch seam, use 

but for best results it is recommended that 

Pinning may be used as a time saver instead of 

to the edge of the fabric with the pin head at 

VI. How to Sew 51 

52 

53 

1;’ 

foot push up on the presser foot 4ever for 

extra lift while you are positioning the fabric. 

make sure that the take-up lever is at its 

highest position. Place your fabric so that 

(Fig.51) Place the thread ends, which are 

When placing a heavy, bulky fabric under the 

its raw edge is even with the back edge of 

either to the left or to the right. Be sure that 

the pins be removed as you approach the 

presser foot. Sewing over pins can result in 

damaged needles. 

Placement of Fabric/Starting a Seam 

Before placing fabrics under the presser foot, 

machine sews a few stitches backwards to the 

both thread ends are under the presser foot. 

edge of the fabric to backtack, then release 

3—4 inches long, under the presser foot and 

sewing forward. 

Press in the reverse button so that the 

Always lower presser foot before sewing. 

the button allowing the machine to continue 

Cloth Guide 

This guide may be placed on the machine for 

The etched seam guides on the needle plate 

1-1/2 inch in width, so that it is useful for 

seams of unusual widths. (Fig.53) 

use the etched guides effectively, let the edge 

seam. Therefore, for a 5/8 inch seam, place 

from the middle needle position. In order to 

are graduated in 1/8 inch divisions measured 

Guiding the Fabric 

of the fabric follow the line selected for the 

the raw edge of the fabric on the line marked 

Etched Seam Guide 

line, let your eye follow the etched lines, not 

extra help in keeping seams straight. It will 

allow you to guide seams from 1/4 inch to 

“58”. (Fig.52) In order to sew a straight 

the needle. 

guide fabric using the first etched mark on 

All Purpose Foot — 

the right side of feet. (Fig.54) 

along the right side of the needle hole. (Fig.55) 

the left needle position and guide the fabric 

the middle needle position and guide the 

fabric along the right side of the needle hole. 

For most fabrics, it is not necessary to hold 

the fabric in both front and back. Merely 

Presser Foot as a Guide 

guide the fabric with one hand from the 

frn n t 

Holding the Fabric 

for 

for 

a 1/4 inch seam, use 

for 

54 55 56

16 

To pivot at a corner. (Fig.57) leave the needle 

back of the needle without pulling on it. 

Turning Corners 

attained by holding the fabric in front and 

georgette, and tricot, the best results will be 

58 59 

57 For the fine delicate fabrics, such as chiffon, 

length would be preferred for curves. A 

smaller stitch length wil add strength and 

shorter stitch length than you are using for 

Curved Seams 

On a curved seam (Fig.58) use a slightly 

edge on the etched seam guide line directly 

across from the needle rather than on the 

is being used for the seams, a 1-1/2 stitch 

the rest of the seams. For example, if length 2 

When guiding the fabric, keep your fabric 

Sewing Across Heavy Seams 

When approaching a heavy seam, (Fig.59) 

elasticity to the seam. 

the possibility of skipped stitches in the 

stitch is almost completed, thus preventing 

in the fabric while on the upswing so that the 

forward part of the line. The seam guide may 

be used on an angle as shown. 

fabric. Then, lower the presser foot and 

Continue sewing. 

corner. Lift the presser foot and pivot the 

hold the fabric upwards on an angle so that 

Ending Seam/Removal of Fabric 

the heavy seam falls under the upward curve 

seam through the machine. 

of the foot. This will help feed the heavy 

stitches to reinforce the end of the seam. 

the reverse button and backstitch for a few 

Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then hold in 

Turn the hand wheel until the take up lever is 

completed and the threads will pull freely. 

in its highest position so that the stitch is 

Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric 

keeping them under the foot so as to not 

by drawing the threads to the left and back 

thread cutter on the back of the presser bar. 

bend the needle. Cut the threads with the 

Leave the thread ends three to four inches 

long.

3 

VII. App’ications of the Straight Stftch 

Seams 

The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 2, 

but the length chosen should depend on. the 

fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier 

fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter 

weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For 

curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter 

stitch length to add strength and elasticity to 

the seam. 

Lsastlng/ t opsutcing 

Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful 

for temporary seams prior to fitting. Basting 

stitches also may be used when gathering in 

fullness. 

Topstitching can be done very effectively 

with the long straight stitch. For a bolder 

stitch, two threads of the same type can be 

threaded through one needle (size 14 or 16). 

A heavier thread such as buttonhole twist 

may be used for topstitching, but be sure to 

use a larger needle (size 16 or 18). (Fig.60) 

Darning 

Worn spots or small holes can be darned very 

easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is optional 

depending on the fabric. (Fig.61) A fme 

thread is recommended so that the fabric 

and thread will blend together invisibly. When 

you use a fine thread, loosen upper thread 

tension slightly. 

Trim the ragged edges from the area to be 

darned. Hold the threads to start, then move 

the fabric slowly backwards and forwards 

while running the machine very fast to fill the 

area. More professional results will be attained 

by moving the fabric in a figure eight pattern 

while sewing. After filling in the area 

lengthwise, reweave with crosswise sttches in 

the same manner. 

Elastic Thread Shirring 

Wind elastic thread onto bobbin. (Fig.62) as 

shown, letting the thread pass through your 

fingers. The thread should be wound smooth 

ly without stretching. Place bobbin in case as 

usual, being sure that the elastic is drawn 

through the tension. Use regular thread on 

the top of the machine. Do a trial run on the 

chosen fabric to test length of stitch. Lay a 

piece of paper under the fabric to keep it 

from gathering up as you sew. This will 

enable you to sew many parallel rows of 

stitching without difficulty. Afterwards tear 

out the paper and the fabric will be gathered. 

(Fig.63) 

Pattern M 

Length 1—3 

Width 

— 0 

Needle Position — M 

Feed Dog — High or Low 

Pressure 

— 5 

Foot Straight Stitch or 

All Purpose 

Pattern — M 

Length 4 

Width 0 

Needle Position L or M 

Feed Dc H.d . r Lo 

Pressure 3-5 

Foot — All Purpose 

Pattern - M 

Length 0 

Width 

— 0 


Feed Dog Low 

Pressure 

— 0 

Foot — All Purpose or 

Embroidery 

Pattern M 

Lereth 2 

Width 0 


reed Dog - rii 

Prsure 

— 5 

Foot All Purpose 

60 

62 

63 

17

‘I 

67 

button. 

66 

65 


Pressure — 

5 

Width — 

Feed Dog — 

High 

NI 

5 

Length — 

I 

—3 

M 

Pattern NI 

Foot — 

Pattern M 

Foot — 

Pattern — 

Foot —- 

Pressure — 

Pressure — 

Feed [)og — 

Feed Dog — 

Length 0 

All 

Seaming Knits 

the hole. 

All 

the fabric. (Fig.64) 

most fabrics. See page 27. 

The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser choice for 

Vifi, Applications of the Zigzag Stitch 

Button 

5 

Width — 


Don 

L 

NI 

Purpose 

5 


Width — 

NI 

High 

Length — 

Purpose 

Se ing 

Raise the needle from the left hole, and move 

zigzag width lever to the right until the needle 

shank. (Fig.66) 

method of sewing on buttons without a 

Zigzag stitching is a very easy and convenient 

Sewing on Buttons 

The narrow zigzag can be used in seams of 

Place the button so its left hole comes 

directly under the needle, then gently lower 

open seam and press flat. Tiny zigzag stitches 

the button sewing foot. Take a stitch into 

can hardly be seen and the seam will give 

firm knits for added strength. After sewing, 

comes down exactly over the right hole in the 

when stretched. (Fig.65) 

Note: Be sure the needle clears the holes of 

securing a button in place. Stop with the 

Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for 

before running the machine fast. 

set the stitch width at 0. and take a few 

the button by moving the wheel by hand 

needle in the left hole. To lock the threads, 

stitches in the left hand hole. 

Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should have 

shank, sew over the blade of a regular sewing 

a thread shank to make them stand away 

Forming a Thread Shank 

Overcasting - 

from the fabric. (Fig.67) To form a thread 

machine needle. Insert needle into hole on 

the front side of foot. 

allowing stitch to form half on and half off 

edge along the center groove of the foot, 

opening of the sewing foot and guide raw 

Place the edge of the material underneath the 

After stitching the button to the fabric. 

button and form a shank between button and 

remove work from under the presser foot 

leaving threads about six inches from fabric. 

attaching stitches. Pull threads to back of the 

Remove needle. Pull the threads to back of 

fabric by winding threads tightly around the 

fabric and tie thread ends securely. (Fig.67) 

1 CS

t 

and applique. (Fig.68) 

The satin stitch, which is really just a very 

manual designed embroidery, monogramming, 

Foot 

— 

ucer esiens 

slightly to cause the threads to lock under 

P:ittgrn NI 

Length — 

Width 1 —5 

Pressure 

— 

Pressure — 

4 

70 

root — 

69 

Foot — 

5 

NI 

Emhmider\ 

Tapering 

Tapering is done by gradually increasing and 

Satin Stitching 

This is useful for decoration such as tapering. 

(Fig.69) By this method, tapered monograms 

(Fig.70) For tapered monogram run the 

decreasing the stitch width while sewing. 

machine fast while sliding the width dial lever 

stitch length as near to “0” as possible 

without stopping the feeding action. The 

close zigzag stifth, is obtained by setting the 

and other interesting designs can be created. 

setting will vary for different fabrics. It may 

stops) between 0 and 5. By running the 

machine at a constant speed and sliding the 

slowly from narrow to wide and from wide 

be desirable to loosen the upper tension 

place paper underneath the fabric while 

sewing for best results. 

especially smooth. For lightweight fabrics, 

neath, in order to make the top surface look 

positions. Then, learn to pivot the fabric as 

guide straight and trying different needle 

to narrow. 

you are tapering by holding the fabric at one 

First, learn this stroke by letting the fabric 

point. Various strokes can be combined to 

Different designs can be made by sliding the 

can give attractive results. 

stitch width lever control (disengaging both 

form letters and designs. Variegated thread 

lever in a definite rhythm, various designs 

can be created. (Fig.71) 

E:iroidr’ 

High 

5 

Emhroider’ 

Feed Dog — 

Puttern NI 

Length 0 4 

Width U 5 

j De Fligh 

:.eehe ?c 

Length C 

Width 0 5 

Feed Dog High 


— 

71

M 

Width — 

Width 

— 

74 

73 

All Purpose 

Embroidery 

Pattern — 

or 

0 

0 

M 

Low 

M 

Freehand Monogramming 

stitches do not pile up. When guiding from 

like a satin stitch, but be careful that the 

slowly so that the zigzag falls close together 

paper under a stationary pen. Guide the fabric 

Monogramming is like writing by moving the 

fabric slowly and run the machine rapidly. 

72 

Foot — 

Length — 

Pattern — 


Width— 1—5 

Step 1 

Pressure — 

Length — 

Feed Dog — 

Pressure — 

5 

Feed Dog — 

High 


Foot — 

Step 2 

Pressure 

—- 

5 

Feed Dog 

— 

High 


or L 

2—4 

Length 

— 

¼—z 

Pattern 

— 

Foot — 

Embroidery 

M 

Embroidery 

M 

0—1 

1 

M 

avoid a heavy area. 

side to side, move fabric slightly faster to 

plastic film placed on the top will help cover 

loops and make the monogram smooth. P1l 

or cut away remaining plastic film when 

accomplished any letter is easy. 

Practice by forming loops. Once this is 

Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven 

interfacing under the fabric may make guiding 

the fabric easier. The paper or interfacing may 

monogram. When monogramming towels, 

be torn or cut away at the completion of the 

plain article. First, trace the design on fabric 

to be appliqued, then pin or baste it securely 

household articles and colthing is a very 

interesting way of trimming an otherwise 

finished. 

Applique 

Applying decorative shapes of fabric scraps to 

stitch or narrow zigzag, sew around the 

in place on garment. With a small straight 

transferred design. (Fig.73) 

After excess fabric is trimmed away, sew 

smooth curve, stop frequently at the inside 

around the applique with a satin stitch. For a 

Corners look much better when the point is 

edge of the curve to pivot the fabric slightly. 

stitched by pivoting rather than just turned. 

used to give more body to the fabric when 

As with all decorative stitches, paper may be 

stitching and can be torn away when the 

applique is completed. (Fig.74) 

recommended especially for soft fabrics and 

side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is 

touch, first transfer the design to the right 

For giving garments and linens a personalized 

Note: Bobbin thread should be placed 

on page 19 and 20. 

In order to monogram, you must move the 

loosen upper thread tension slightly. 

toweling. (Fig.72) When you monogram 

through the clip for all operations described

77 

79 

Foot — 

Width 5 

Lengl — 

bulk. (Fig.76) 

Pattern NI 

80 

Lettuce Hem 

— 

— 

Foot Fnihroiderv 

Width 3—4 

Needle Position NI 

Pressure — 

Length — 

Feed Dog High 

5 

2 

Pattern NI 

convenient line to follow when sewing. 

(Fig.77) When using a scalloped edged lace 

Attaching laces or trims adds a special touch 

to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or baste lace 

Lace Application 

thread, gives a much stronger cord for 

across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet 

breaks while pulling in fullness. A small zigzag 

Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch often 

Gathering Over a Cord 

A straight edged lace or braid has a 

in place easing or mitering corners where 

necessary. 

invisible application. (Fig.7S) 

follow the design of the lace for an almost 

edges of tricot or soft knits is by a lettuce 

edge. (Fig.79) Hemming in this manner is just 

An unusual way of hemming or finishing 

stretched in back and in front of the needle 

like overcasting an edge, but the fabric is 

gathering fullness into fabrics. (Fig.75) Once 

as you sew. For best results, pull the fabric 

equally, making sure the needle goes over the 

your hands, keep the needle in the fabric. 

cord can be pulled out in order to eliminate 

the gathers have been stitched in place, the 

edge. (Fig.80) When you stop to reposition 

Feed Dog High 

Pressure — 

Embroidery 

5 


Ni 

2 


Pressure — 

Needle Position. NI 

Feed Dog — 

5 

High 

Width — 

Length 

— 

Pattern — 

M 

ww 

,— ---,.. 

-

:1 

I 

I -l 

81 

85—1 

83 

appearance. 

Polyester threads often result in puckered or 

mercerized cotton thread should be used. 

For the best results, a good quality 

Preparation 

1X. Buttonholes 

Center line of 

Garment 1/8 incn 

Built-in Buttonhole 

pivoting the fabric. It is used most often on 

This buttonhole eliminates the need for 

light and medium woven fabrics. 

Step 1 

I. Set pattern selector dial for the first 

2. With needle out of the fabric, turn pattern 

the mark at the end of buttonhole. Lower 

presser foot and take a few stitches to 

buttonhole position. Lower needle into 

left side of buttonhole until the white 

nylon slide runs into the back of lip of 

bartack. (Fig.85—l Step 1) 

selector dial to second picture. Sew up 

the foot. At this position, the machine is 

feeding in reverse. (Fig.85—l Step 2) 

Step 2 

Foot — 

i- ed tog — 

Width — 

Pressure — 

5 

Length — 


M 

3—5 

Buttonhole 

Pattern 

your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread 

heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer 

should be. 

An interfacing should be used under the 

buttonholes to give body, to strengthen, and 

To establish the correct length of the 

to help them withstand wear. 

choose the best according to the finished 

your fabric, test the methods in question and 

are in doubt as to which method is best for 

are given below, with suggested uses. If you 

sewing buttonholes. Four different methods 

Various fabrics require various methods of 

buttonhole, add the diameter of the button 

(A), plus the thickness of the button (B), plus 

between the toe of the white slide and the 

cardboard the size buttonhole needed. (Fig. 

stitch, tailor’s chalk, or transparent tape. 

may be marked on the garment with a basting 

holes will be the same size is to cut a piece 

Another way to make sure that all button 

1/8 inch for the bartacks. (Fig. 8 1) The length 

of cardboard as wide as the buttonhole foot 

and long enough to make the distance 

should extend 1/8 inch beyond the center line 

to 1 1/8 inches long. Horizontal buttonholes 

82) This method works for buttonholes up 

of the garment. (Fig. 83) Vertical buttonholes 

buttonhole is directly on the center line. 

are placed so that the cutting space of the 

(Fig. 84) 

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap 

buttonholes on your garment. On your test 

of the garment fabric before making any 

sample, duplicate the thicknesses found in 

interfacing. The test sample should help 

the garment and be sure to include the 

determine the length needed for the button to 

stitch length needed for the particular fabric. 

pass through the hole easily, as well as the 

As with the satin stitch, the stitches should be 

up. Be sure to use the buttonhole foot. 

close together, but not so close that they pile

1 Step 4) 

M 

87) 

88 

is out of the fabric and set width at 0. 

87 

Then take a few stitches. 

5. To lock the stitches, make sure the needle 

cannot go beyond first bar tack. (Fig.85— 

right side of the buttonhole. White nylon 

pattern selector dial and complete the 

to the final buttonhole picture on the 

85—1 Step 3) 

dial. Sew a few stitches to bartack. (Fig. 

slide will run into cardboard so you 

I: •1 

buttonhole picture on the pattern selector 

85—1 

6. Score the buttonhole with the back edge 

Turn-around Buttonhole 

4. With the needle out of the fabric, turn 

3. With the needle up select the third 

Turning the fabric for buttonholes gives 

better results in certain situations. This method 

hole at the neck or waisthand near thick 

may be desirable for making the top button 

cutting open the buttonhole. When using this 

method over a buttonhole which has already 

enclosed seam allowances. It is also excellent 

ready-made garments, or buttonholes in which 

to use when repairing worn buttonholes on 

the stitches have been cut accidently when 

been slit, be sure to hold the buttonhole open 

and allow the needle to go off the edge of the 

use paper underneath. 

fabric at the right. On soft or stretch fabrics, 

1. Set the needle position to the left. With 

23 previously. (page 23) 

prevent cutting through the bartack, 

of the seam ripper several times. To 

2. Lower presser foot and raise the needle. 

insert a straight pin through the bartack. 

Cut buttonhole open with the seam 

ripper. (Fig.85—2) 

3. Raise the needle and return zigzag to 2½ 

4. With needle up, move width to 5 again 

5. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches 

the buttonhole marking. Sew down the 

zigzag width at 2½, start at the end of 

left side of buttonhole until you reach the 

in front of the presser foot. (Fig.86) 

Slide buttonhole foot up to the end of 

at the right side of the stitches. Lift the 

end marking. Leave the needle in fabric 

presser foot and pivot the fabric around 

until the first row of stitching is directly 

can be made. 

foot, so the other side of buttonhole 

on top of one another to bartack. Hold 

Move width to 5 and take several stitches 

in fabric at the left side of stitches. (Fig. 

the fabric to prevent feeding. Stop needle 

width. Complete second side of button 

at the left of the end marking, or when 

hole, stopping the needle in the fabric 

the nylon slide runs into cardboard insert. 

(Fig.88) 

and take several stitches while holding the 

fabric to prevent feeding. (Fig.89) 

at 0 width. Cut buttonhole as indicated 

Pressure — 

5 

Feed Dog — 

High 


L 

Width —2½—5---2½—5—0 

Length — 

¼—½ 

Pattern — 

Foot 

— 

86o 

89 

II 

I? 

Buttonhole 

M 

Step 3 Step4 

L.ççrn 

85-2 

II

____ 

- 

90 

Pa ttL’rn Ni 

Lenoth — 

Width — 2—5— —5—O 

Needle Position — L 

Feed Dog I ugh 

Pressure 5 

Foot 

— Buttonhole 

ilNu 

Pattern — 

Length — 4—O—4--O--O 

Width — 2½--5-H—5—O 

Needle Position — L 

Feed Dog — Hih 

Pressure 

— 5 

Foot — Buttunnoe 

oweu tL 

Cording gives a reinforced raised buttonhole. 

It is excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, 

or knits in which the stitching often gets 

buried and makes cutting difficult. On knits, 

a corded buttonhole will help keep the fabric 

from stretching out of shape. 

Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or 

buttonhole twist to use for cording. Proceed 

as for the built-in buttonhole (Page 22) - - 

Loop cord around the front prong and under 

the presser foot in such a way that the zigzag 

stitch covers the cord. 

At the completion of the buttonhole snip the 

excess cord close to the bartack on woven 

fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the 

cords to the wrong side by using a darning 

needle or needle threader and knot the cord 

ends before clipping. 

Stretch Buttonhole 

This buttonhole is used on knit fabrics when 

it is desirable to omit interfacing or cording. 

This buttonhole will stretch and return to 

shape unlike an ordinary zigzag buttonhole. 

The pattern of the stitch makes the bu 

ttonholes nearly invisible when using match 

ing thread. It is excellent to use on jerseys. 

double knits, and sweater fabrics. (Fig.9l) 

I 

i 

I. Set the needle position to the left. With 

the width at 2½. start at the end of the 

buttonhole marking. Sew down the left 

side of buttonhole until you reach the 

end marking or cardboard insert. Leave 

needle in fabric at the right side of the 

stitches, lift the presser foot. Pivot the 

fabric and slide sole up to the end of foot 

so the other side of buttonhole can be 

made. 

2. Lower the presser foot and raise the 

needle. Move the stitch length to 0 and 

the width to 5. Sew several stitches to 

bartack. Stop the needle in fabric at the 

right side of stitches. 

3. With the needle up, move the stitch 

length back to 4 and the width to 2½. 

Complete the second half of the button 

hole, stopping the needle in fabric at the 

left of the end marking. 

4. With the needle out of the fabric, move 

the stitch length to 0 and the width to 5. 

Bartack several stitches. 

5. With the needle up, slide the stitch width 

to 0 and take several stitches to lock the 

threads. Cut buttonholes as indicated 

previously (page 23). 

24

93 

94 

Step 3 

Procedure: 

92 

All 

Purpose 

2—3 

High 

5 

(2) Fold hem up desired length. 

X. Applications of the Blind Hem Stitch 

(3) Fold hem back toward right side of fabric 

Hemming 

The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem Pattern — 

finish that is almost invisible on garments. Length 2 

(4) Adjust your stitch width and neeuie 

drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with Width — 

(5) When stitching is completed, (Fig.94) 

hem, matching the seams. Ease in the excess 

fabric by pulling on basting thread. Press with 

straight or slightly curved hems. With a little Needle Position M 

When hemming an A-line skirt, place a 

machine basting stitch along the raw edge of 

practice it will be a — 

very quick and easy hem Feed Dog 

application 

— and the hem will never need Pressure 

the hem. At an ironing board, fold up the 

step 3. 

steam, then apply hem tape. Baste or pin hem 

repairing. Foot — 

1/2 inch from taped edge, then continue into 

manner, such as overcast, 1/4 inch 

(I) Prepare raw edge of hem in desired 

stitched under, pinked, hem tape, or just 

plain. (Fig.92—Stepl) 

of the stitch comes just slightly to the left 

of the center cut of the presser foot. 

Press in place. (Fig.92—Step2) 

Baste or pin 1/2 inch from upper edge. 

(Fig.92—Step3) 

leaving about 1/4 inch extended. 

position (Fig.93) so that the zigzag bite 

Then the fold of the fabric may be guided 

into the cente cut of the presser foot for 

just barely into the fold of the fabric at 

should be formed on the single thickness 

a perfect hem. The straight stitches 

of fabric, and the zigzag bite should catch 

the left. 

remove fabric from machine and turn to 

right side. Press completed hem. 

Step 1 

Step 2

neckline or armhole for a decorative finish. 

applied under a fold for a decorative hem on 

pillowcases or applied with the facings at the 

Foot 

— 

All 

Purpose 

may be tucked in this manner, and then 

Feed Dog — 

-— Pressure 

5 

soft, woven fabrics. A single folded bias tape 

High 

M 

Shell Tuck 

:1 

Foot — 

All 

Purpose 

Pressure — 

Needle Positicn M 

— Feed Dog 

Vvjtlth — 

5 

Leneth - 

I 

- 

High 

5 

ac 96 

Width 5 


Length ½—i 

Pattern 

the center of the zigzag bite, then pivoting at 

petals can be added if desired. 

the end of each petal as shown. Four more 

A flower design can be created by starting at 

pattern. 

straight stitches to form a snowflake-like 

The stitch may also be pivoted after three 

in the center of the straight stitched segment. 

Another variation alternates the zigzag bites 

and the points matched in the second row. 

pivoted when the zigzag bite swings to the left 

tions are created. (Fig.96) The stitch may be 

stitching on lace or ribbon attractive decora 

By sewing two adjacent rows of blind hem 

Decorat’’ ff’” 

1 

> 

vyV 

H 

r--r - 

can be varied by changing the stitch length. 

back onto the fabric. The size of the “shell” 

the fabric, and the zigzag bite will swing to 

edge will be guiding into the center cut of 

shell edge is created as the needle swings 

the right of the needle with the folded edge 

to be created. Place the bulk of the fabric to 

to the left. Place the fabric so that the folded 

the foot. The straight stitches will form on 

Fold under the edge where the shell tuck is 

the left off of the folded edge. (Fig.95) The 

26 

This works welt on knits or on the bias of 

pillowcases, and decorative finishes, (Fig.95) 

easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, 

The blind hem stitch gives a very effective and

pe .u.n i_yzag 

Overcasting 

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent 

choice for overcasting. (Fig.97) It keeps the 

fabric flat and prevents raveling. For most 

fabrics, this stitch is better than the zigzag 

stitch for overcasting. 

The stitch should fall right at the raw edge of 

the fabric. Feed the fabric under the presser 

foot by guiding the raw edge along the right 

hand side of the hole in the presser foot. 

Pattern 

— 

Length 

Width — 5 


Feed Dog High 

Pressure — 5 


2 tSJtt.Sflh , S1f 

> 

Patching 


stitch for patching. It is stronger than the 

zigzag and the tiny stitches bury into the 

fabric to make an almost invisible stitch when 

using matching thread. 

Place the patch over the right side of the worn 

or damaged area. Sew around the patch with 

the multiple stitch zigzag letting the last stitch 

to the right overcast the edge of the patch. 

(Fig.98) When turning corners leave the needle 

in the fabric at the corner. (Fig.99) Usually 

this will be the furthest stitch to the right or 

left. In this way, the aorners are doubly 

stitched and very strong. When the patch is 

stitched in place, trim away the excess worn 

fabric on the wrong side of the patch. (Fig. 

100) 

Pattern 

— 

Length 

Width 5 


Feed Dog — High 



99 

> 

,4 

A 

A 

.A pA A A A A ,944\ 

Mending a Tear or Instant Darning 

The multiple stitch zigzag provides a strong 

and easy repair for torn garments. It gives an 

almost invisible mend, especially when a fine 

darning thread is used. 

To mend a tear, hold the torn edges close 

together and stitch down the middle. (Fig. 

101) If the tear is guided under the slot in the 

middle of the presser foot, stitching will be 

equal on both sides. If necessary, sew again on 

either side of the first row of stitching making 

sure the needle catches the stitch in the 

center. With very worn or frayed fabric, 

place a piece of lightweight interfacing or 

cotton batiste under the tear for reinforce 

ment. 

Pattern — 

Leneth 

14 1. 

Widtn 5 


heed Dog Hien 

Pressure 5 

Foot ll Purpose 

101 

27

Foot — 

Pressure — 

Flowers may also be produced. Start in 

Foot — 

Perpose 

Needle Posjtion 

Feed Dog — 

Leneth — 

quarters or eighths and mark with pins. Do 

Understitching Facings 

stitch will blend into the fabric and prevent 

produced. 

Purpose 

Feed Dog — 


allowances. Using a matching thread, the 

results. 

>>>>> 

\\\\\ 

>>>>> 

>>>>> 

29 

Foot — 

Purpose 

All 

test seams with this stitch and with the Ultra- 

used on other fabrics as well. Always make 

step. For knits, it gives strength and elasticity 

This stitch gives a finished ‘/4 inch seam in one 

Seams 

seams. 

French seams. 

fabric. 

Width 5 

Pressure — 


Feed Dog — 

Pressure 

— 

Length 4 

Length — 

Pattern 

Pattern 

Fe ll Peruse 

5 

107 

108 

or 5 

4 


Pattern — 

106 

presser foot so that as the needle swings to 

the right, it comes down at the raw edge. This 

For patterns with inch seams: (Fig.l06) 

on woven goods to replace flat felled or 

strength and prevents raveling. It can be used 

For woven fabric. the overlock stitch gives 

such as nylon or acetate knits, but may be 

seams. It is most applicable to soft, thin knits 

fabric that often occurs with 5/8 inch opened 

to the seams and prevents the curling of the 

For patterns with 5/8 inch seams: (Fig.107) 

Place the raw edge of the fabric under the 

Stretch Stitch and choose between the two 

according to performance on the particular 

sew the seam with the raw edge of the fabric 

will result in an enclosed seam allowance. 

inch either before or after sewing. If trimming 

The seam allowances may be trimmed to ¼ 

before sewing, proceed as above. Otherwise. 

use the full width of a particular stitch, you 

should readjust the raw edge of the fabric 

is actually easier than the overeclge method 

excess fabric near the stitching. This method 

on the etched guide line “½”. (Any time you 

for fabrics that curl. 

seem to wave or ripple. If this occurs, reduce 

Note: On soft, loose knits, the fabric may 

The overlock stitch is excellent for use on 

Nylon Tricot Seams 

the pressure (Page 12). 

1/8 inch to the left.) Afterward, trim the 

tricot seams should only be about 1/8 inch 

fine fabrics such as nylon tricot. Lingerie or 

Applying Elastic 

The overlock stitch gives a very finished 

finished width. Use size *11 needle for better 

down to 1/4 inch while cutting out the pattern. 

If your pattern has wide seams. trim them 

Guide the raw edges of the fabric into the 

center slot of the presser foot. On the right, 

the needle will stitch over the edge resulting 

pucker results when stitching, a looser tension 

in a finished rolled seam of 1/8 inch. If a 

is needed. 

Page 28, but use this stitch instead of the 

appearance to elastic application. (Fig.l08) 

Stitching in this manner can also be used to 

form a rolled hem on the raw edge of a scarf. 

See instructions for elastic application on 

multiple stitch zigzag. 


Feed Dog High 

5 

High 

Width 4 or 5 

4 

Feed Dog High 

‘d1 P itiun 

Width 5 

Leneui 4

3 

____ 

- 

109 

:1 

: 

110 

Pattern 

Length — 4 

Width — 5 




Foot — All Purpose 

Ladder Stitch 

This stitch gives a very effective means of 

sewing fake furs and soft leathers to produce 

a seam with no bulk, It is also very effective 

in a contrasting color as a decorative accent 

for special seams, such as raglan sleeves or 

for applying an edge trim. (Fig.109) 

Place the bulk fabric the right 

the needle and the raw edge so that the 

needle will swing off the fabric at the left. 

(Fig.l 10) The left side of the stitch will be 

formed off the fabric to provide a very 

strong seam with only a tiny seam allowance. 

Pull the seam open from the right side until 

the “rungs” of the ladder appear. The “rungs” 

become a decorative accent if a contrasting 

thread is used. On fake fur, the nap can be 

pulled up with a needle to hide the stitches 

and create an invisible seam. 

of 

of your 

to 

of 

111 113 

Pattern — 

Length — 4 

Width — 5 



Pressure 5 

Foot — Purpose 

Hemstitching 

By using a very large needle and a fine thread 

an openwork effect can be attained which is 

beautiful for sewing the hems into 

cloths, napkins, placemats. handkerchiefs, etc. 

Use a large needle, size 18 or 20. and a fine 

cotton thread. Tighten the upper tension 

slightly, until the stitch looks on the 

underside than on top. (You will be sewing 

with your fabric face side down.) 

Turn up 1 inch then turn up 1 inch again to 

form a hem a double thickness of fabric. 

The bulk in corners can be eliminated by 

trimming away the excess, as shown, (Fig. 

111) after having folded the fabric on all sides. 

Stitch from the wrong side, so that the straight 

stitch forms on the single layer and the 

zigzag bites on the double layer. (Fig.l 12) 

Stitch all the way to the edge of the fabric 

along all sides. (Fig. 113) 

of 

better 

table 

114. 

Pattern — 

Length 4 

Width 3—5 



Pressure 4 or 5 


Tnpstitching 

The overlock stitch can be used to topstitch 

non-raveling fabrics such as felt or leather into 

place for appliques or pockets. 

Stitch so that the straight of the stitch is 

formed over the edge of the leather, and only 

the zigzag part holds it on. (Fig. 114) 

part

such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which 

CAUTION - It is difficult fo remove this 

throughout the garment. 

ing, this stitch may be used for seaming 

stitch. It is excellent for curved seams such as 

armholes and crotch seams. For active wear 

endure a lot of stress in bending and stretch 

Foot 

— 

All 

Porpose 

(Fig. 115), in areas of stress as a reinforcement 

Feed Dog High 

Pressure — 

5 


NI 

Width 0 

115 

this stitch. 

stitch from fabric. Pre-fit garment before using 

XIII. Applications of the Straight Stretch Stitch 

____ 

31 

catch through the elastic. (Fig.l 19) 

Fold fabric over the elastic and stitch elastic 

elastic and the angled part of the stitch should 

form on the double layer of fabric next to the 

stitch. The straight part of the stitch should 

and fabric at one time, using the ultra stretch 

Elastic Application 

excess fabric close to the stitching. (Fig. 118) 

strength and elasticity of all. 

the right. (Fig.117) 

etched guide line “½”, then trim away the 

Feed the raw edge of the fabric along the 

For patterns with 5/8 inch seam allowances: 

suit knits, and cotton knits. It has the greatest 

Feed the fabric such that the needle goes over 

the raw edge of the fabric when it swings to 

For patterns with ¼ inch seam allowances: 

stretch fabrics such as sweater knits, bathing 

The Ultra-Stretch Stitch is excellent for 

more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam 

according to their performance. 

the particular fabric in question and choose 

which of the two stitches to use, test both on 

the Ultra-Stretch or the Overlock Stitch, is 

more professional finish, eliminate bulky 

making a garment. If ever in doubt as to 

cut down on the amount of work involved in 

allowance. These stitches can create a neater, 

“give” under stress, and at the same time they 

seams, prevent curling, permit the garment to 

On most knits, a ¼ inch finished seam, such as 

Seams 

XIV. Applications of the Ultra-Stretch Stitch 

(Fig.l 16) 

particularly on knits. Needle position may be 

stitching closer to or farther from an edge. 

varied from left to right in order to line up 

straight stitch, it is ideal for topstitching, 

Because this stitch is heavier than an ordinary 

Tops titching 

This stitch may be used on knits and wovens 

Sea nis 

Pressure 5 


Feed Dog — 

High 

Width 5 

Length 4 

Pattern i1. 

Foot — 

All 

Purpose 

117 

Pressur 4 or 5 

Needle Pu [iOi 

Width 5 

Length 4 

Feed Dog - 

High 

Pattern 

Foot — 

All 

Purpose 

Pressure 

— 


Feed Dog — 

High 

5 

Width — 

Length — 

4 

0 

Pattern 

Foot — 

All 

Purpose 

L M R 

Length 4 

Pattern — 

119 

118 

116

32 

Foot — 

Foot — 

All 

Width 

— 

2 

Embroidery 

D--. 

stitch. 

caps in place. 

needle is the same as normal with these 

color, on each spool pin, and put spool 

1. Place thread, matching or contrasting in 

exceptions: (Page 9) 

to the back. (Fig. 1 20) 

Threading of the machine when using a twin 

To use a twin needle in the machine, 

remove the single needle, and insert the 

twin needle into clamp with the flat side 

120 121 

122 

ii 

Ii 

\‘ 

I 25,’, 

in 

I 

,q 

r 

iiI 

01 III 

I lI ip 

Twin Needle Sewing Effects 

, s/ac 

ti 

I’ 

IA Ii ‘ 

,; ‘N 

:? /1 

t, \ \\ 

V. •; 

Pressure 

Length — 

Embroidery 

Purpose or 

Feed Dog — 


Pressure 

— 5 

— M 

P3ttern — 

Length 

— ½—2 

0_2V 

High 

Any 

lilt jl 

I’ 

All Purpose 

or 

Width O—2½ 

Feed Dog — 

— 5 

Pattern NI 

High 

2—3 

When using a twin needle only use the middle 

3. Then separate threads through arm thread 

Pin Tucks 

needle position (M). Set the zigzag width lever 

at 2½ to prevent needle breakage with a wide 

Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that matches 

lines on the fabric guiding the edge of the 

fabrics. Using the twin needle, sew straight 

the fabric, produce subtle decoration on plain 

presser foot along each successive tuck to 

to form a soft crease. To achieve a tuck on a 

make parallel rows. Soft fabrics will be pulled 

Heavier fabrics will produce two lines of 

fabric, increase the top tension slightly. 

straight stitching. Attractive pin tucks are 

as with a straight stitch. (Fig.124) 

2. Hold both threads together as you follow 

made with the multiple stitch zigzag as well 

guiding along the edge of the tape. When 

HINT: Transparent tape makes straight lines 

Decorative Tuck or Desiens 

Any stitch can be used with the twin needle 

sewing is completed peel off tape. (Fig.123) 

easy to sew. Just sew with the presser foot 

Remember to use no more than a 2½ zigzag 

width for twin needle sewing. 

hem stitch for fancy tucks. The satin stitch or 

tive are the multiple stitch zigzag and blind 

for decorative effects. (Fig.125) Most attrac 

effective for creative trims. 

tapered zigzag designs in two colors are 

one thread through the upper disc and one 

guide (Fig.122) 

separate the threads at the tension. Pass 

through thread guides as normal, but 

thread through the lower disc. (Fig.121)

131 

and sew with the right side of the fabric down 

hook as illustrated. (Fig. 126) Bring up bobbin 

the cord or yarn through the hole on the 

(see page 5). By pass the tension, by threading 

cord or yarn on the bobbin in the usual manner 

cord or yarn as usual. Select the desired stitch 

yarns can be used on the bobbin. Simply wind 

Yarn and Cord Sewing 

Pearl cotton and lightweight baby or mending 

mic topstitch effect. Zigzag, multiple stitch 

A straight stitch can be used for a very dyna 

garment edges can be achieved. Experiment 

with cord or yarn to test decorative or practi 

zigzag, or blind hem stitch can make an 

with yarn can be used to make a stretch 

interesting decorative stitch. The overlock 

stitch, a reinforced binding on blanicets or 

using cord or yarn with the ultra stretch 

buttonhole on sweaters (see page 24). When 

cal uses. 

have to be adjusted slightly. 

against the needle plate. Top tension may 

Zipper 

The zipper foot is used to sew in zippers 

Zipper Foot 

and insert cording. 

2. To sew the left side of zipper, set needle 

1. To sew the right side of zipper, set needle 

To insert cording 

1. Set needle position dial at “L” and make 

2. Set needle position dial at “R”. Sandwich 

Parallel straight lines are easy to sew with the 

Quilting Guide 

quilting guide. (Fig. 1 3 1) Slide quilting guide 

succeeding rows let the guide follow along the 

line of stitching as desired, and then for the 

shank. Adjust the curved bar to the desired 

through black clip on back of presser foot 

distance from the needle. Sew the first 

previous line of stitching. A straight stitch, 

zigzag, or any other stitch may be used. 

zipper teeth. (Fig. 127) 

position dial at “L”, and stitch close to 

the welting between two layers of fabric 

with right sides together. Stitch a second 

zipper teeth. (Fig. 128) 

position dial at “R” and stitch. Close to 

time. The needle stitches close to the 

cord through all thicknesses. (Fig. 130) 

the welting by sandwiching the cord into 

(Fig. 129) 

a bias strip of fabric. Stitch close to cord. 

127 128 

129 130

XVI. Additional Special Accessories 

132 133 

134 135 

136 

Roller Foot 

Ideal for use on vinyls, imitation leathers. 

jerseys, synthetics and velvets. This foot helps 

keep both layers of fabric feeding the same. 

On very slippery fabrics, the roller foot helps 

prevent skipped stitches. (Fig.132) 

Overcast Foot 

Zigzag overcasting may tend to roll the edge 

of some fabrics causing a bulky edge. The 

overcast foot helps to produce a flat edge. 

The bar behind the needle hole holds the 

threads firmly in a full width zigzag or overlock 

stitch to keep the stitches from drawing 

tightly together. (Fig.133) 

Blind Hem Foot 

For all those who fmd machine blind hemming 

difficult, this foot gives a clear guide for the 

fold of fabric to follow. The blind hem foot is 

a fine accessory for those who like the 

strength and durability of machine hemming. 

(Fig. 134) 

Rolled Hem Foot 

Recommended for narrow rolled hems on 

scarves, shirts, linens, and linings. This foot 

makes a very tedious hand sewing job very 

easy to do on a sewing machine. (Fig.135) 

Fringe-Foot 

Thick chenille type loops can add interest to 

appliqued flowers and animals. Used with a 

satin stitch this foot gives a plush texture to a 

design. Also used for hemstitching and tailor 

tacking. (Fig. 136) 

n1J 

34

35 

Machine 

Needles dull easily and when dull will 

other garment. 

are using. 

needle for the thread and fabric you 

b. Always use the appropriate size 

for your machine. 

a. Always use the correct type of needle 

XVII. Care and Maintenance of Your Sewing 

2. Cleaning 

a. After each garment is completed, a 

3. Oiling 

1. Changing Needles 

d. Always put needle in machine cor 

e. Pulling on fabric while sewing will 

ly cause the mechanisms to lock up. 

b. Your machine should be oiled every 

b. Keep machine covered when not in 

a. Use a pure oil, one that has no 

c. Always change the needle after every 

c. Before oiling the machine remove the 

d. Use the lint brush to remove all lint 

bend the needle, which will sub 

sequently break the needle and 

(2) The presser foot 

(3) The needle plate. Loosen the two 

lint brush to clean bobbin case area, 

tension discs and needle bar. 

rectly. It will cause stitches to be 

skipped if it is inserted incorrectly. 

machine. 

damage both your fabric and your 

(1) The needle 

light cleaning is recommended. Use a 

damage the needle plate. 

(4) The bobbin case. With your right 

8—10 hours of use, using only one 

garment. 

drop in each red oiling spot. Your 

use to prevent accumulation of dust 

excess oil may drip and stain your 

machine cannot be over-oiled but 

and dirt particles. 

detergents. It is best to buy oil 

machine use. Other oils will eventual 

manufactured specifically for sewing 

following: 

(Fig. 139) 

plate and clean above the needle bar. 

machine. In addition, open the face 

from the open area in the bed of the 

then lift off the plate. (Fig.137) 

screws with the large screw driver, 

Do not lose the screws. 

thumb, pull the black bracket up 

out the bobbin case with your 

and to the right. (Fig.l38) Lift 

thumb by pulling it to the right.

140 

4 

iIdIl 

e. Using a sewing machine oil, place a 

single drop on each oiling point as 

illustrated, specifically those points 

marked in red on your machine. 

(Fig.140) Run the machine to allow 

the oil to penetrate. 

f. After you have finished oiling the 

machine replace the bobbin case by 

placing case into the machine and 

pushing toward the left until the 

grooves fit. (Fig. 141) Place the screw 

driver to the right of the black bracket 

and force it toward the left and down. 

To test bobbin case for correct place 

ment, place thumb in center of the 

case and pull toward the right. The 

black bracket and bobbin case should 

remain in place. 

The needle plate should then be 

placed into its normal position and 

the screws tightened, then the presser 

foot and needle are replaced. 

(pages 9 &14) 

4. Changing the Light Bulb 

Open the face plate by pulling towards the 

left. Turn the light bulb counterclockwise to 

remove. Replace the bulb by turning clock 

wise. (Fig.l42) 

I 

141 142 

A majority of service calls could be avoided 

by following the above procedures and by 

first checking to see that the machine is: 

1. Threaded properly. 

2. That the bobbin is wound evenly. 

3. That the needle is in the machine 

correctly. 

I, 

36

37 

thread. 

control. 

(2) The needle is placed incorrectly in 

needle. 

(1) The needle is dull or bent. Change it. 

backwards or the height is wrong. 

the needle clamp. It is either 

A. The Needle 

I. Skipped stitches 

C. The Presser Foot 

Skipped stitches have become a problem in 

recent years. especially with the appearance 

of knit fabrics and polyester threads on 

B. The Thread 

the market. Skipped stitches normally can be 

calling a repairman. 

traced to four basic causes: 

fabrics, try all of the above procedures before 

If your machine skips stitches only on certain 

I). The Fabric 

(1) The machine is threaded incorrectly. 

(2) Many brands of polyester thread are 

(4) The thread is too thick for the size of 

(2) There is not enough pressure on the 

(1) The foot being used is not holding 

used for the fabric. Use ball point 

(3) The wrong type of needle is being 

needle on knits and wedge point 

needle being used. Use a larger 

needles for leathers and vinyls. 

too stiff and coarse thus making loop 

formation difficult or impossible. 

Change brands or use a cotton 

being pulled up and down while 

needle plate hole, thus the fabric is 

stitching. Use the foot which gives 

the fabric taut enough over the 

the most control possible for the 

particular job being done. 

The fabric has a heavy finish on it 

presser bar to hold the fabric firmly. 

Increase pressure on the pressure 

which deters stitch formation. Wash 

the fabric thoroughly before sewing.

2. Thread Breaking 

A. Machine improperly threaded. 

B. Thread is caught in a slit of the spool 

or under the spool. 

C. Thread is dry or of poor quality. 

D. Tension is too tight. 

E. Starting the machine with take-up 

lever in the wrong position. Always 

start and end sewing with take-up 

lever in highest position. 

F. Needle is bent, blunt, or has a burr 

on it. 

G. Needle is not inserted correctly. 

H. Thread is too coarse for needle being 

used. 

I. Needle plate has been nicked by the 

needle, thus is sharp and cuts the 

threads. 

3. Needle Comes Unthreaded 

A. Take-up lever is not in correct posi 

tion as you start sewing. Always 

start and end with your take-up lever 

in its highest position. 

4. Needle Breaks 

A. Pulling on fabric while sewing bends 

the needle, this may cause breakage 

if needle hits the plate. 

B. Needle is inserted incorrectly, 

C. Needle is too fine for the type of 

fabric. 

D. Needle is hitting pins. 

E. Presser foot is improperly fastened. 

F. Machine is improperly threaded. 

5. Material Puckers 

A. Tensions are too tight. 

B. Improper threading. 

C. Thread is too heavy for fabric. 

D. Stitch is too long for fabric. 

E, Needle is dull so it is difficult to 

pierce fabric. 

F. The presser foot being used is not 

holding the fabric taut enough. 

G. If all else fails, try sewing over paper. 

6. Threads Jam at Start of Sewing 

A. Hold the threads tightly for the first 

few stitches. 

B. Place thread ends under side of 

presser foot instead of to the back. 

C. Be sure the presser foot is down on 

thick fabrics. 

7. Machine is Noisy 

A. Clean and oil it. 

B. If it is a punching sound, change the 

needle. 

8. Bobbin Does Not Wind Properly 

A. Machine is improperly threaded. 

B. Rubber wheel on bobbin winder is 

worn or not making contact. 

C. Bobbin winder tension disc is not in 

position. 

rotary’ 

4 

ec\0’ 

“0 

çe’N

39 

Zigzag 

Buttonhole Foot 14 

Basting 17 

Applique 20 

All Purpose Foot 14 

Accessories 3, 34 

INDEX Page 

Decorative Sewing 19, 20, 26, 28, 32, 33 

Elastic, Applying 28, 29, 31 

Elastic Thread Shirring 17 

Changing the Needle 9, 35 

Embroidery 19, 20, 26, 28, 32, 33 

Embroidery Foot 14 

Cloth Guide 15 

Changing the Light Bulb 36 

Adjusting for the Fabric 12 

Adjusting the Stitch 10 

Corners 16 

Cord Sewing 33 

Darning 17, 27 

Blind Hem Foot 34 

Blind Hem Stitch 5—26 

Facings, Understitching 28 

Etched Seam Guide 15 

Feed Dog Control 12 

Care and Maintenance 35—36 

Buttonholes 22—24 

Fringe Foot 34 

Gathering Over a Cord 

Hems, Flutter 21 

Hems. Blind Hem Stitch 26 

Needle, Changing 9, 35 

Needle Position 11 

Needle Selection 7 

Needle, Thread, Fabric Chart 8 

Hemstitching 30 

Installation Into Cabinet or Case 4 

Lace 21 

Mending 27 

Ladder Stitch 30 

Minor Problems and Their Solutions 37 

Monogramming-Freehand 0 

Multiple Stitch Zigzag 27, 28 

Oiling 35,36 

Overcasting - Multiple Stitch Zigzag 7 

Overcast Foot 34 

Overcasting - 

Overlock Stitch 9—3 1 

18

Presser Foot, Selection 14 

Pivoting 16 

Presser Foot, Changing 14 

Pin Tucks 32 

Pinning 15 

Pattern Selector Dial 11 

40 

Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width 10 

Tension Adjustments 13 

Tucks 32 

Zippers 33 

Roller Foot 34 

Straight Stitch Foot 14 

Tapering Zigzag 19 

Threading the Machine 5—6 

Turning Corners 16 

Zipper Foot 33 

Seams, Ending 16 

Zigzag Stitch Applications 18—21 

Stitch Length Dial 10 

Topstitching 17, 30, 31 

Straight Stretch Stitch 31 

Sewing on Buttons .18 

Reverse Button 10 

Seam Guide 15 

Seams 15—17,29,31 

Seams, Curved 16 

Seams, Knits 18 

Seams, Nylon Tricot 29 

Shell Tucking 6 

Removing the Needle Plate 9, 35 

Yarn, Sewing with 33 

Winding the Bobbin 5 

Ultra Stretch Stitch 31 

Pressure Control 12 

Principle Parts 1—2 

Quilting Guide 33 

Rolled Hem Foot 34 

Satin Stitching 19 

Shirring 17 

Twin Needle Sewing 32 

Patching 27 

Parts Identification. 1—2

41

Singer W1202, W1213 - English - User Manual

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