Birding in Mallorca

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BIRDING IN NORTH MALLORCA Eleonora’s Falcon is a possibility here, too, as well as the likes of Golden Oriole in summer. You can easily bird most of the valley in around three hours, walking at an easy pace. TERNELLES VALLEY On the road to Soller, just outside Pollença, this reserve is made up of a mountain pathway giving access to sea cliffs and the Castell Del Rei. It’s an excellent area to watch during migration periods, with Montagu’s Harrier, Hobby, Honey Buzzard and migrating birds including Montagu’s Harrier, Hobby and Honey Buzzard all passing through, while Pallid Swift, Crag Martin, Balearic Warbler and Sardinian Warbler should also be among your targets. In winter, Raven, Firecrest, Brambling and Hawfinch are all possible here. Access is by permit only, available from the tourist office in Pollença, and there are no facilities – the paths are also harder than some, so take appropriate clothing and plenty of water. MORTITX This reserve, south of Pollença, sits among vineyards – there’s a wide and easy public footpath to the reserve, through woodland, with good views of the mountains throughout, and a detailed map at the entrance to the reserve proper. All those Mallorca montane specials – Black Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Booted Eagle and Blue Rock Thrush – are present, and in summer, it’s a good site at which to find Wrynecks. The path leads to the Ses Basses viewpoint, looking out over steep sea cliffs, allowing you to do some seawatching, while at all times you should be on the lookout for the recently reintroduced Bonelli’s Eagle – please report any sightings of these. LLUC MONASTERY Heading along the road from Pollença to Soller, look for the sign to this historic site, which is the main centre for starting walking or birding tours of the mountains. There’s a bar, an excellent restaurant, and tourist accommodation available All those Mallorca montane specials, Black Vulture, in the former monks’ cells. Firecrests and Wrynecks are possibilities from the car park, plus Nightingales, while Black and Griffon Vultures and Booted Eagles should be easily found, soaring above. Buses run to the monastery from Port Alcudia once a day, leaving at 9am and returning at 5pm (but check the timetable for changes). There’s also a botanical garden (entrance free). CUBER RESERVOIR On the road from Pollença to Soller, this reservoir has ample car parking and well-marked footpaths (although no toilets), and the birding starts pretty much immediately that you’ve arrived. Black and Griffon Vultures can be seen overhead, plus Booted Eagles and Eleonora’s Falcons, and Ospreys are always a possibility too. Cirl Buntings and Blue Rock Thrushes are widespread here, and it’s a good place to look for the cryptically patterned Wryneck, foraging for ants. Spectacled and Subalpine Warblers are also present, and migrants such as Redstarts, Wheatears and wagtails of all sorts pass through on migration. éé SA GUBIA There are many great places to explore in north Mallorca é BARRANC DE BINIARAIX One of the most spectacular walking routes in the Mallorcan mountains ê SELVA An attractive village set against the backdrop of the Serra de Tramuntana range êê S’ESTACA VALLDEMOSSA Another hidden gem, be it bird or village, is always just around the corner êêê CHILL OUT Enjoy the view, enjoy the birds, and relax in style in the lovely Mediterranean sunshine Gri 14 Birding in North Mallorca
e, Griffon Vulture Booted Eagle and Blue Rock Thrush are present... and look for Wrynecks FACTFILE WHERE TO STAY Puerto Pollensa: La Gola reserve is right in the town of Puerto Pollensa – you can easily walk around its woodland, scrub and lake each day in search of birds, including a variety of herons. Pollença: A few miles west, has a more traditional feel, and is small enough to walk around in a morning. Hotels include the five-star Son Brull, one of Mallorca’s best. Soller: Just inland from the north-west coast. Visit the Jardin Botanic and the Museu Balear de Ciencies, a natural science museum, and the striking Esglesia de Sant Bartomeu. Alcudia: Retains its medieval walls, narrow, cobbled streets, many historic buildings. GETTING AROUND Public transport is very cheap. The Airport Bus runs to Palma every 15 minutes. If you are not staying in the city or the port, get off the bus at the Plaza d’Espanya, go down the steps past the train departures to the bus station, used by the red and yellow TIB buses. The 340 bus to Puerto Pollensa takes just over an hour and costs only €6. It usually leaves from bay 14. OTHER THINGS TO TRY Visit Deia: This idyllic village was the home of Robert Graves, poet and author of I Claudius. The views are wonderful, and you can walk down to Cala Deia, a small shingle beach in an attractive cove. It boasts two restaurants (open only in the summer season), with fresh fish as their speciality. There are plenty of walking trails in the hills above the village. Walking: Spring and autumn are ideal times for walkers, although summer walks include some along the Boquer Valley. There’s a good walk over the mountains to Cala Vincent, with fantastic views of Cala Carbo – you’ll find a couple of lovely bars by the water’s edge serving food. Another great walk starts just off the Formentor Road at Casa Velles. Park on the left and walk through the woods on the opposite side to Cala Murta, a lovely quiet cove. Close by, walk from the Formentor road to the tower of Albercutx. Park at the first mirador, and the road to the tower is opposite on the right. There are spectacular views of Puerto Pollensa and Alcudia in the distance. Watersports: Scuba diving is popular around Puerto Pollensa. Also very popular in the harbour is kiteboarding. There is a kite and surf school halfway between Puerto Pollensa and Alcudia which has a large range of equipment and is located directly opposite the beach where most of these sports takes place. At the harbour, as well as jet skis, there are yachts and catamarans, all of which can be hired and enjoyed. Cycling: Mallorca is a favourite destination for both leisure and professional cyclists, but you can just as easily, simply use a bike as a means to explore the island. More ambitious cyclists go to Cap Formentor, a very demanding route. There is a small café at the first mirador, frequently used for its spectacular views. There are numerous rental shops in the ports, but prices vary, so shop around. Eat and drink local: North Mallorca has excellent restaurants, bars and vineyards, so make sure you take the chance to sample the local cuisine, which not surprisingly features seafood heavily. Restaurant Jardin, in Alcudia, has an international reputation, and chef-owner Macarena De Castro is the proud possessor of a Michelin star, so it is certainly worth a visit! Website: enjoymallorca.com/destinations BOCQUER CAP DU PORT DE SA FORMENTOR POLLENÇA CALOBRA VINYES MORTITX ALCUDIA TRAMUNTANA SOLLER DEIA VALLDEMOSSA PALMA LLUC birdwatching.co.uk 15
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