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Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine - November 2016

Welcome to Caribbean Compass, the most widely-read boating publication in the Caribbean! THE MOST NEWS YOU CAN USE - feature articles on cruising destinations, regattas, environment, events...

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COMPASS<br />

CARTOONS<br />

MARTY BUCELLA<br />

B&B THOMAS<br />

Broker Spotlight<br />

— Continued from page 40 …Mind<br />

My memory fails me as to what my rush was, but that<br />

quick look was all it took. My next trip to Marigot I<br />

anchored in the inner bay not far off the row of palm<br />

trees, and it was like the first time: natural beauty,<br />

quiet and solitude.<br />

We spent an afternoon puttering on the boat and<br />

admiring the unspoiled surroundings. As daylight faded<br />

we had supper in the cockpit while listening to the subdued<br />

natural sounds from the mangroves and surrounding<br />

hills, but soon after the light faded, the sound<br />

of a generator interrupted our bliss and lights could be<br />

seen through the palms. A few minutes later there were<br />

the sounds of cars and lights over where the road ended<br />

at the water’s edge, and after a couple of horn honks a<br />

boat came and picked up the people and music was<br />

heard from the Marigot des Roseaux. The spell was broken,<br />

the natural serenity destroyed. I decided to go over<br />

and see what was going on.<br />

There were two tables showing signs the occupants<br />

had had a meal; at one there were two people, at the<br />

other a family of four. The new arrivals were at the<br />

bar and the tables nearest the dock; two couples<br />

were dancing.<br />

I ordered a beer at the bar and met Beverly, the proprietress;<br />

she was charming and very curious about<br />

who I was and what I was about. As I came in a dinghy<br />

it was obvious I was from the yacht anchored in the<br />

inner bay and as soon as she learned I was doing daysails,<br />

she introduced me to the family of four at a table<br />

and the couple at the nearby table listened in. It<br />

turned out that she and the six guests she was speaking<br />

to were all Canadians and they all quickly came to<br />

the conclusion that a sail on the Rose Salter, the day<br />

after tomorrow, down to the Pitons for lunch, and a<br />

sunset trip back, was a great idea. Beverly would provide<br />

the lunch and her guests agreed to my price for<br />

the trip.<br />

As there wasn’t much to do in preparation for the trip,<br />

a lot of time was spent the next day exploring the natural<br />

wonders of the bay. But for the Marigot des Roseaux<br />

and the houses mentioned, the bay was an untouched<br />

wilderness. In many areas going farther than the<br />

water’s edge would have required a machete. The mangrove<br />

trees were full of birds and creepy-crawlies and<br />

the water their roots reached out into was alive with life.<br />

It was a wonderful day.<br />

That evening the generator at the Marigot des Roseaux<br />

didn’t run for long and while it did the breeze coming<br />

down the valley reduced the sound to a murmur and<br />

filled our nostrils with the natural fecundity. Even<br />

before it stopped we could hear the night sounds from<br />

the hillsides and palm trees.<br />

The trip the next day to the Pitons was okay; it was<br />

calm just off of the beach and we drifted between the<br />

Pitons for lunch and a swim in the deep blue water. The<br />

Canadian guests appreciated the unspoiled majesty of<br />

the two peaks and the valley covered with scattered<br />

palms. There wasn’t a structure to be seen.<br />

I felt good about their appreciation of the trip and the<br />

environment, and about the money they paid me.<br />

Looking back, I’m glad I didn’t realize then that I was<br />

part of the beginning of the invasion of charter boats,<br />

hotels and restaurants. When I say I liked it better then<br />

than now, some think I’m antisocial or anti-progress,<br />

but it is really that I’m just a naturalist, and often preferred<br />

to be alone with my boat, the sea and all that it<br />

gives me.<br />

Author’s note: My eight books written under the name<br />

David R. Barton are available on www.amazon.com.<br />

There is a five-book series of The Life and Loves of Tony<br />

Bartoni that could be called “Nautical Noir”, and the second<br />

book in the series, Smuggling Sex Diving Sailing, is<br />

set in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />

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NOVEMBER <strong>2016</strong> CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43<br />

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