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Travelscope_Magazine_Winter_2017

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Travelscope/Winter 2017<br />

Page 8<br />

Charmed in Costa Rica<br />

Story and Photos by Barbara Beckley<br />

made-to-order grouper and rock shrimp<br />

ceviches I was eating were fantastic.<br />

Pancho finds save haven at the Four Seasons Costa Rica<br />

“Whoa! The butterfly.” I gasped as it fluttered out from<br />

between the trees – and, as I stood breathlessly still – lit<br />

on my shoulder! Then came another. And another.<br />

I’d been hoping to see these creatures my entire trip –<br />

Costa Rica’s gigantic Blue Morpho butterflies, with bright<br />

turquoise wings the size of luncheon plates.<br />

Now, on my trek back from the Rio Negro Hot Springs –<br />

natural pools of warm mineral waters bubbling up in an<br />

Eden-like setting at Hacienda Guachipelin inside Rincon<br />

De La Vieja National Park – my wish came true.<br />

I’d been exploring Costa Rica’s lush northwest<br />

Guanacaste region for a few days and had already<br />

experienced wonderful adventures. Or so I thought. Like<br />

negotiating the long, narrow, swinging bridge to the hot<br />

springs; sea kayaking around Monkey Head Rock in<br />

the Gulf of Papagayo’s crystal waters, and climbing 700<br />

hillside steps to enjoy beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean<br />

on the vast grounds of the Four Seasons Costa Rica<br />

Peninsula Papagayo, where I was staying.<br />

But then came the butterflies. And then the monkey. And<br />

then the snakes. And the school children.<br />

Following my butterfly encounter, I was sipping a margarita<br />

at the Four Seasons’ open-air Tico’s Lounge, when I saw<br />

a movement high above me. A large Capuchin monkey<br />

was inching his way across the wall some 30 feet up, just<br />

beneath the open-air lobby balcony. He seemed ready to<br />

jump down and join me. Good move, I thought, since the<br />

Eventually, however, he disappeared into<br />

the upstairs lobby – only to reappear and<br />

cause a photo frenzy by snoozing in a<br />

palm tree by the pool. I noticed his tail<br />

was short and not prehensile like most<br />

Capuchins. “He’s been ostracized by<br />

the other monkeys in the forest,” Kristen<br />

Thompson, director of marketing, told me.<br />

“We’ve named him Pancho and we’re<br />

pleased he lives here in peace.”<br />

Thompson’s sentiment pretty much<br />

reflects the way of life in Costa Rica. One<br />

hears how friendly, caring and eco-centric the Costa<br />

Ricans are. But you can’t imagine how true this is until<br />

you visit.<br />

At the Serpentarium and Frog Exhibit at Hacienda<br />

Guachipelin, I was most impressed by the affection my<br />

guide and serpentarium manager Diego Badilla had for<br />

the animals. Costa Rica has 139 snake species and<br />

at least 133 species of frogs and toads. “Look closely,<br />

she’s gorgeous,” he said, pointing out Costa Rica’s<br />

iconic green and red-eyed leaf frog. He was equally<br />

complimentary of the poison dart frog, whose bodily<br />

fluids once tipped arrows for an instant kill. Even with<br />

its bright red body and iridescent blue legs, this teeny<br />

weeny amphibian was hard to spot among the foliage.<br />

And of the snakes. “She loves attention. Do you want<br />

to hold her?” Badilla asked me a bit later, unlatching the<br />

door to the boa constrictor enclosure. Costa Rican boas<br />

are immense, and this girl was no exception. “Isn’t she<br />

beautiful,” he enthused, pointing out the brown stripe on<br />

her creamy colored head – a marking unique to Costa<br />

Rican boas. She was. But I admired her from afar, and let<br />

Badilla hold her.<br />

The Costa Ricans’ love extends to their fellow man.<br />

Paintbrush in hand at a local elementary school,<br />

I experienced the satisfaction of giving back as a<br />

participant in the Four Seasons’ Voluntourism program.<br />

First, the students entertained us with a dance program<br />

they’d choreographed themselves and been practicing<br />

continued on page 9

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