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I loved the gloopy honey, which we ate with walnuts. Down on the river at the Karshat end were<br />
water buffaloes. There was also a shed with a wooden waterwheel providing power to turn huge<br />
millstones to grind wheat and maize into flour, which young boys would then pour into sacks. Next to<br />
that was a smaller shed containing a panel with a confusion of wires sprouting from it. The village<br />
received no electricity from the government so many villagers got their power from these makeshift<br />
hydroelectric projects.<br />
As the day went on and the sun climbed higher in the sky, more and more of the White Mountain<br />
would be bathed in golden sun. Then as evening came it fell in shadow as the sun moved up the Black<br />
Mountain. We timed our prayers by the shadow on the mountains. When the sun hit a certain rock, we<br />
used to say our asr or afternoon prayers. Then in the evening, when the white peak of Spin Ghar was<br />
even more beautiful than in the morning, we said the makkam or evening prayers. You could see the<br />
White Mountain from everywhere, and my father told me he used to think of it as a symbol of peace<br />
for our land, a white flag at the end of our valley. When he was a child he thought this small valley<br />
was the entire world and that if anyone went beyond the point where either mountain kissed the sky,<br />
they would fall off.<br />
Though I had been born in a city, I shared my father’s love of nature. I loved the rich soil, the<br />
greenness of the plants, the crops, the buffaloes and the yellow butterflies that fluttered about me as I<br />
walked. The village was very poor, but when we arrived our extended family would lay on a big<br />
feast. There would be bowls of chicken, rice, local spinach and spicy mutton, all cooked over the fire<br />
by the women, followed by plates of crunchy apples, slices of yellow cake and a big kettle of milky<br />
tea. None of the children had toys or books. The boys played cricket in a gully and even the ball was<br />
made from plastic bags tied together with elastic bands.<br />
The village was a forgotten place. Water was carried from the spring. The few concrete houses had<br />
been built by families whose sons or fathers had gone south to work in the mines or to the Gulf, from<br />
where they sent money home. There are forty million of us Pashtuns, of which ten million live outside<br />
our homeland. My father said it was sad that they could never return as they needed to keep working<br />
to maintain their families’ new lifestyle. There were many families with no men. They would visit<br />
only once a year, and usually a new baby would arrive nine months later.<br />
Scattered up and down the hills there were houses made of wattle and daub, like my grandfather’s,<br />
and these often collapsed when there were floods. Children sometimes froze to death in winter. There<br />
was no hospital. Only Shahpur had a clinic, and if anyone fell ill in the other villages they had to be<br />
carried there by their relatives on a wooden frame which we jokingly called the Shangla Ambulance.<br />
If it was anything serious they would have to make the long bus journey to Mingora unless they were<br />
lucky enough to know someone with a car.<br />
Usually politicians only visited during election time, promising roads, electricity, clean water and<br />
schools and giving money and generators to influential local people we called stakeholders, who<br />
would instruct their communities on how to vote. Of course this only applied to the men; women in<br />
our area don’t vote. Then they disappeared off to Islamabad if they were elected to the National<br />
Assembly, or Peshawar for the Provincial Assembly, and we’d hear no more of them or their<br />
promises.<br />
My cousins made fun of me for my city ways. I did not like going barefoot. I read books and I had a<br />
different accent and used slang expressions from Mingora. My clothes were often from shops and not<br />
home-made like theirs. My relatives would ask me, ‘Would you like to cook chicken for us?’ and I’d