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Practical Photography - May issue

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Know Your Stuff<br />

What do I need to know<br />

when buying a new lens?<br />

I’m about to invest in<br />

a second lens for my<br />

DSLR. Do you have<br />

any need-to-know advice<br />

before I make my decision?<br />

Stuart Granger, Leeds<br />

Dan says: If you only own<br />

one lens, chances are it’s the<br />

18-55mm standard zoom that<br />

came with your camera. While<br />

these basic kit lenses tend to<br />

offer reasonable image quality,<br />

they often lack in other key<br />

areas, including build quality<br />

and low light performance. If<br />

you’re thinking of investing<br />

in some new glass, either as<br />

an upgrade to your kit lens or<br />

to extend your focal range,<br />

it’s well worth knowing your<br />

aperture blades from your<br />

autofocus before you commit.<br />

The very first thing<br />

you’ll need to decide is what<br />

focal length best suits your<br />

photography. This will largely<br />

depend on what you shoot.<br />

Portraits, for example, are<br />

usually well suited to 50mm<br />

lenses (85mm on full-frame),<br />

whereas landscapes are<br />

normally shot at around<br />

14mm (20mm on full-frame).<br />

The next thing to consider<br />

is the maximum aperture.<br />

If you want a very blurry<br />

background behind your<br />

subject, or if you shoot<br />

handheld in low light, you’ll<br />

want an aperture of around<br />

f/2.8 or wider. However, if<br />

you’re a landscapes shooter,<br />

this is less important as you’ll<br />

mostly be shooting at f/16.<br />

TIP<br />

CONSIDER<br />

SECOND HAND<br />

Used lenses are generally as<br />

good as new ones, so long as<br />

there aren’t scratches on the<br />

front or rear elements, or<br />

internal dust or<br />

mould.<br />

Once<br />

you’ve<br />

settled on these two things,<br />

you should have narrowed<br />

down your options to just a<br />

few compatible models. But<br />

before you decide, it’s worth<br />

considering some of the below<br />

features and functionality.<br />

Know your lens...<br />

Lens coatings<br />

The elements on modern lenses have special<br />

coatings to reduce internal reflections, which<br />

suppress flare and ghosting. These usually have<br />

technical-sounding names like SubWavelength<br />

Structure Coating or Nano Crystal Coating, but<br />

essentially they all do a similar thing. Look for<br />

examples online of whether a specific lens<br />

controls flare well.<br />

Smooth<br />

zoom and<br />

focus rings<br />

If you get the chance to<br />

handle a lens before<br />

you buy it, be sure to<br />

check the action on the<br />

zoom and aperture<br />

rings. You’re looking for<br />

smooth, consistent<br />

movement with a small<br />

amount of resistance.<br />

Avoid sticky or uneven<br />

operation at all costs,<br />

not least because of<br />

what this says about<br />

the lens’ build quality.<br />

Lens hood<br />

When shooting into bright sunlight, lens<br />

flare can be an <strong>issue</strong>, causing very low<br />

contrast images. A lens hood can help<br />

protect against this, and they’re also useful<br />

for keeping raindrops off the front element.<br />

Lens hoods aren’t always included with<br />

cheaper lenses, so check this out before<br />

you buy.<br />

Internal design<br />

All lenses contain a series of glass<br />

elements, the arrangement and shape<br />

of which affect distortion and chromatic<br />

aberration. Look out for lenses with<br />

aspherical elements, which are<br />

expensive to produce but control optical<br />

imperfections well. Also, check how<br />

many diaphragm blades your lens has<br />

– the more there are, the more<br />

circular the bokeh will be.<br />

Extending barrel<br />

On cheaper lenses, the end of the barrel<br />

usually extends when focusing and/or<br />

zooming, which can leave the optics open<br />

to dust contamination. If you can, look out<br />

for a lens where this movement is internal<br />

and the length of the lens always remains<br />

constant, regardless of focal length or<br />

focus distance.<br />

Size & weight<br />

If you’re an outdoor or travel<br />

photographer, having to lug heavy kit<br />

across large distances can be a real<br />

problem. For this reason you might<br />

value portability above all else and opt<br />

for a superzoom or pancake lens, or<br />

invest in a CSC system, for which<br />

lenses tend to be smaller and lighter.<br />

Don’t forget though that wide aperture<br />

lenses are generally heavier.<br />

Weather-sealing<br />

Image<br />

stabilisation<br />

Some lenses come<br />

with optical<br />

stabilisation, where tiny<br />

stepping motors move<br />

a group of elements to<br />

compensate for<br />

camera shake. This<br />

generally allows you to<br />

shoot with shutter<br />

speeds 4 stops slower<br />

and still get sharp<br />

results. Stabilisation is<br />

more commonly found<br />

on zooms than primes.<br />

If you use your camera outdoors<br />

regularly, it might be worth considering<br />

a fully weather-sealed lens, which<br />

means a number of rubber seals stop<br />

any dust or water from getting in. This<br />

should allow you to work comfortably<br />

in heavy rain or on a sandy beach,<br />

without the risk of any damage.<br />

110 PRACTICAL PHOTOGRAPHY

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