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Garden News - July Digital Sampler

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Why don’t my<br />

Q growing bag<br />

sweet peas flower?<br />

Dennis Haynes,<br />

Oxfordshire<br />

Sweet peas<br />

won’t flower<br />

if their roots<br />

are dry and<br />

overheated<br />

I wouldn’t grow<br />

A sweet peas in<br />

growing bags. Firstly, the<br />

volume of compost is<br />

very small and sweet<br />

peas hate drying out. The<br />

other reason is that in<br />

front of a south-facing<br />

wall, I suspect the roots<br />

are getting poached in the<br />

summer sun.<br />

Sweet peas do best in deep,<br />

well-cultivated soil, where their<br />

roots are cool and moist. If<br />

growing in containers, choose<br />

ones about 45cm (18in) deep and<br />

painted white to reflect the sun.<br />

Alternatively, if the containers<br />

are rectangular, line them with a<br />

polystyrene sheet, which will<br />

keep the roots cool.<br />

Even with tomatoes that<br />

tolerate warm roots, I prefer to<br />

sink some bottomless 10 litre<br />

pots into the growing bag and<br />

plant into these so there’s a<br />

larger volume of compost to hold<br />

moisture and which is also less<br />

likely to overheat.<br />

What’s killing shrubs?<br />

What are the growths<br />

Q killing my shrubs?<br />

Susan Greenwood, by email<br />

The growths are lichens.<br />

A They’re simply using the<br />

shrubs as a support and take<br />

all their sustenance from the<br />

air. They do no harm to the<br />

plants they grow on, but<br />

where they become<br />

established it’s a sign the<br />

shrub is losing vigour.<br />

Lichen can be controlled<br />

to some extent by pruning<br />

to improve air circulation<br />

and additional feeding,<br />

mulching and watering.<br />

Always mulch and<br />

prune shrubs well<br />

Dennis Haynes<br />

Alamy<br />

Quick<br />

Can you identify<br />

the leaf problem<br />

spreading through<br />

my pear tree?<br />

Baz Murray, by email<br />

The blackening of the<br />

leaves is due to the pear<br />

blister mite (Eriophyes pyri),<br />

a microscopic gall mite<br />

that feeds inside the leaf.<br />

Raised blotches start off<br />

pink or yellowish-green,<br />

but later turn black. It<br />

doesn’t affect cropping<br />

or the health of the tree,<br />

which is just as well, as<br />

there are no effective<br />

insecticides against mites.<br />

If just odd shoots are<br />

affected prune them out.<br />

How do I propagate my<br />

dendrobium orchid from<br />

the small plantlets on<br />

the stems?<br />

Margaret Hamilton,<br />

by email<br />

Under low-light levels,<br />

dendrobiums produce<br />

new plantlets, known as<br />

‘keikis’, on the main stems.<br />

Once three or four roots<br />

form, sever the stem 2.5cm<br />

(1in) above and below the<br />

plantlet and pot into an<br />

orchid compost. Keep well<br />

watered, but out of direct<br />

sun until established.<br />

Questions<br />

Pear blister mite<br />

won’t harm your tree<br />

Is it OK to treat blue<br />

mould on my lifted<br />

bulbs with sulphur?<br />

Martin Hewitson, by email<br />

Sulphur no longer has<br />

approval for use as a<br />

fungicide. Ensure your lifted<br />

bulbs are thoroughly dried<br />

off before storing them.<br />

Remove any damaged bulbs<br />

and any displaying obvious<br />

symptoms. Store in trays<br />

in a warm, airy location<br />

until you replant.<br />

Can I save my pieris?<br />

Michael Wilson,<br />

Keighley, W Yorkshire<br />

Pieris are more droughttolerant<br />

than other<br />

ericaceous plants, but you<br />

need to increase watering<br />

to at least twice a week in<br />

summer. They’re prone to<br />

pieris lacebug attack, which<br />

bleaches the foliage, but<br />

this is associated with lots of<br />

debris and stickiness on the<br />

underside of leaves.<br />

Baz Murray<br />

Why are my plum<br />

Q leaves curling?<br />

Donald Parkes, West Midlands<br />

The damage is due to the<br />

A plum leaf-curling aphid<br />

(Brachycaudus helichrysi), a sapsucking<br />

insect that feeds on the<br />

foliage of many prunus species.<br />

It’s active from April through<br />

to late May and will have left<br />

trees by now. You can simply<br />

prune back badly distorted<br />

shoots.<br />

To avoid it next year,<br />

use a winter wash or<br />

approved insecticide<br />

for fruit as the leaf<br />

buds are opening.<br />

It’s worth examining<br />

the underside of the other<br />

leaves carefully, however,<br />

as you may also see whitishgreen<br />

insects which are mealy<br />

plum aphid (Hyalopterus pruni).<br />

These are active right into<br />

late summer, when dense<br />

colonies may develop, so a<br />

timely spray may help. Never<br />

spray any fruit tree when in<br />

flower due to the danger to<br />

beneficial pollinating insects.<br />

Damage to plum<br />

caused by leafcurling<br />

aphid<br />

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Alamy<br />

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<strong>July</strong> 1 2017 / <strong>Garden</strong> <strong>News</strong> 49

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