Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine July 2017

— Continued from previous page
Venture off Fifth Avenue into a free maze of open-air
mosaic galleries. Artist Fuster has covered almost
everything for several blocks around his studio with
Above: At Santy’s Seafood Restaurant enjoy sushi, ceviche and cold beers
Below: For excellent and affordable Cuban dishes, try El Laurel Bar &
Restaurant. El Laurel, Santy’s and Club Havana are all within walking
distance of the marina
mosaics. Most of his neighbors have permitted Fuster
to use their walls and roofs in his work. Take your time;
there’s a lot to see. Some are works in progress. One of
the best is Fuster’s depiction of Granma, the boat that
returned Fidel to Cuba from Mexico.
Santy’s Seafood
Closer to the marina, the next stop
should be Santy’s Seafood Restaurant.
If you look north from the bridge,
Santy’s is the brown, two-story building
on the water. Take the street before
the bridge and keep looking for another
small alley. Ask, because everyone but
you knows where it is. Santy’s has the
only intercom door we encountered in
Cuba. It also had the best seafood.
Plates of sushi and ceviche are ten
CUCs. Everything is fresh, beers are
cold, and dinners are reasonable.
Immediately before the bridge, at
the locals’ marina, you might be able
to purchase fresh fish. The prices are
as nice as the fishermen. If you have
any spare hooks, these guys could
use them.
Miramar
For another excursion, take the bus to
Cecilia and walk eastward along Fifth
Avenue. This area is Miramar. This jaunt
will take you past a supermercado where
you can see the monthly ration for the
locals. It isn’t much. In contrast is the
nearby ferreteria (hardware store) where
posh bathroom fittings can be purchased.
There is also Palco, the Cuban version of
Costco, where you might find something you want, but
roving the aisles might make Americans homesick.
Fifth Avenue in Miramar is closer to Havana Centro,
but it is quiet and relaxed. Miramar is where the rich
and notorious lived before the revolution. You will see
lovely gardens with more sculptures. Beautiful homes
— supposedly of the mafia — were converted into
embassies and consulates. (The oddest building is the
Russian Embassy; the tall, centered tower looks like a
rocket.) I’m surprised no one does a mafia tour of
Havana. The beautiful houses and classic cars are
reminders of the profits of organized crime.
Everything can be found along the main street into
Havana, including countless restaurants and great
music. There are two magnificent cathedrals and a few
old churches along the same route. For art, just keep
your eyes open. All you have to do is get off the boat and
seek it out.
El Laurel Bar & Restaurant
On another short stroll, exit the marina, turn to the
right and walk along the avenue to locate El Laurel Bar
& Restaurant. (There might be a short cut through the
marina, but ask anyone as there are no signs on the
main street.) It is situated on the far side of the marina
entrance almost directly across from the Immigration
building. It is a lovely local place with excellent and
affordable Cuban dishes. El Laurel has the best local
ambiance of any of the places near to the marina.
Trout’s
Top Tips
• First, as it always is, money is necessary. Find the
cambio across the bridge on Fifth Avenue in the village
of Jaimanitas (Hi-man–ee-tas). Ask anyone for directions.
It is within close walking distance, safe, and
legal. Get small denominations to make change easier.
Bring Canadian dollars, as they have the best exchange
rate. You will lose 13 percent on US. US credit or debit
cards do not work in Cuba.
• Internet can be frustrating, but did you really make
this trip to check Faceboook? In the marina, bring
your tablet or laptop to the Hotel Acuario’s main desk
and buy a prepaid card for a dollar and a half. The
hotel lobby has the best WiFi within the marina.
• Always use the marina bathroom before you leave.
It’s best to carry some bottled drinking water in addition
to your required toilet tissue.
• A great free app to learn simple Spanish is
Duolingo. It only takes minutes a day to acquire a
functional level, and the price is right.
• The guidebook we used the most was Frommer’s. It
has basic information. Cuba, and Havana in particular,
are quickly evolving their tourism, so addresses,
e-mails and phone numbers are constantly changing.
But the architecture, museums, art galleries, and
friendly people are constants.
JULY 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25
• Finally, be sure to meet Cubans. Traveling around
Havana we were pleased to discover that everyone we
met seemed to have a positive attitude. Cubans are
almost universally friendly and helpful and will make
every effort to communicate.