The Cultured Traveller 17

ISSUE 17
JUN-JUL 2017
ROTTERDAM
CARTAGENA • THE SAXON JO’BURG • SIEM REAP
INDIAN ACCENT • GAVIN RAJAH • QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT

HOTELS THAT DEFINE
THE DESTINATION
The residence of discrete luxury in Athens
Located in the very center of the vibrant city of Athens since 1930, King George,
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of a fascinating boutique hotel, having hosted renowned celebrities.
The inviting environment of King George finds its best expression
in the outstanding and always personalized service.
EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT KINGGEORGEATHENS.COM
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Call us: + 5 71 325 7900

HIGHLIGHTS
JUNE-JULY 2017 ISSUE 17
42 RAPT WITH ROTTERDAM
If you’re tired of the same old city break
destinations put ROTTERDAM on your
radar. Best known for its awe-inspiring
contemporary architecture, the
Netherland port is rapidly gaining a
reputation among cultured travellers for
its lively nightlife, rich art scene and
historic, picturesque canal-side
neighbourhoods. Dawn Gibson falls
under the city’s unique spell.
20 GRANITIC SEYCHELLEN
HOSPITALITY
Four kilometres east of La Digue Island in
Seychelles lies Félicité, a small 652-acre
island strewn with enormous granite
boulders in a huge variety of shapes and
sizes. Tucked between the rocks and
lush hillsides are 30 spacious timber
villas which make up SIX SENSES ZIL
PASYON, undoubtedly one of the most
insanely beautiful resorts in the western
Indian Ocean.
10 ONE MOUNTAINOUS PRIZE
24 SUPREME SRI LANKAN
WELLNESS
Inspired by the words of Finnish architect
Juhani Uolevi Pallasmaa, and with just
twenty architecturally edgy rooms
conceptually designed and inspired by the
country's Buddhist meditation caves,
SANTANI is the deluxe Ayurvedic wellness
resort that many say the Sri Lankan
hospitality industry lacked until now.
130 SPANISH GASTRONOMIC
GLAMOUR
Put together Spanish pop music heartthrob
and Miami Beach local Enrique Iglesias,
international tennis champion Rafael Nadal,
and six-time NBA All-Star San Antonio
Spurs player Pau Gasol and what do you
get? Answer: TATEL MIAMI - sister to the
highly successful Madrid restaurant of the
same name and more a clubstaurant than a
conventional eatery, as you’d expect from a
central South Beach venue with three
famous co-owners.
2,000 metres above sea level, ALILA JABAL AKHDAR is perched on the edge of a ravine,
overlooking a dramatic gorge in a central section of the Al Hajar Mountains in northeastern
Oman. The Cultured Traveller Prize Draw offers the lucky winner an opportunity to spend
two nights half board with three friends in the lap of contemporary Arabic luxury, in a lavish
two-bedroom private villa at this exclusive mountain resort.
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 5

CONTENTS
44
74
10
18
12
94
8 EDITOR’S LETTER
12 NEWSFLASH
In issue 17 the TCT team rounds-up
the seasonal events and unmissable
festivals happening in June and July
2017 around the world, including
standout classical music FESTIVAL OF
SAINT-DENIS in France, MEADOWS IN
THE MOUNTAINS in Bulgaria, the
bizarre WORLD WIFE-CARRYING
CHAMPIONSHIPS in Finland, San Diego's
four-day convergence of animated fun
COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL, South
Korea’s mammoth BORYEONG MUD
FESTIVAL, and the zany RED BULL
SOAPBOX RACE at London’s Ally Pally.
18 REST YOUR HEAD
Featured hotels in the June-July 2017
issue include prestigious Oetker
Collection’s newest hospitality
masterpiece PALÁCIO TANGARÁ set in
São Paulo’s Burle Marx Park; floating
38 storeys above the ground in Cesar
Pelli-designed Nihonbashi Mitsui
Tower, the Japanese capital's
MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO; and
57-room KATAMAMA in Bali, little
brother to Seminyak favourite Potato
Head Beach Club. We also drop
anchor at CHARMING HOUSE, a
boutique hotel with three different but
connected sites in the spectacularly
beautiful Italian city of Venice.
74 SUITE ENVY
Once a massive private residence set
in 10 acres of magnificent landscaped
gardens in Sandhurst, one of
Johannesburg’s most elite suburbs,
Judith Manson spends a weekend in a
200m 2 Presidential Suite at the
renowned SAXON, the same hotel
where Nelson Mandela resided while
his home was under construction, and
edited his autobiography, ‘Long Walk
to Freedom’.
82 BOARDING PASS
Our Editor-in-Chief Nicholas
Chrisostomou often spends as much
time hurtling through the sky as he
does with his feet on terra firma, so
who better to round up those items we
should never board a plane without.
From eye gel and water spray to a
goose down travel pillow and silk eye
mask, Nicholas reveals his in-flight
essentials in Boarding Pass.
86 NO SHOES REQUIRED
On the edge of Arabia’s famed Empty
Quarter, an hour and a half outside
Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates,
solitude and tranquility set the world to
rights at QASR AL SARAB DESERT
RESORT BY ANANTARA. Here Ashlee
Starratt navigates the unending dunes
with the sand between her toes,
134
82

86
exploring this wanderer’s oasis
paradise, part of a 9,000 sq km
nature reserve.
94 SPOTLIGHT
A strategic fortress when places like
Buenos Aires and Caracas were still
blueprints, CARTAGENA is
undoubtedly the most romantic city in
Latin America. Nicholas
Chrisostomou investigates the
incredibly well preserved walled city,
and uncovers hip bars and gourmet
restaurants, art galleries and antique
stores, boutique hotels and designer
shops behind the whitewashed, ochre
and terracotta façades.
112 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN
An enchanting and engaging saga of
love and deceit, of power struggles
and battles and of age-old conflict, is,
according to local folklore, the
backdrop to the foundation of SIEM
REAP. It is a land of mysticism, wonder
and, above all else, architectural
brilliance. Dilraz Kunnummal
explores the famed North Western
Cambodian city, host to some of Asia’s
most incredible temples.
122 TASTE & SIP REVIEW
Indian food is beloved the world over
for its rich sauces, succulent meats
and accomplished vegetarian dishes.
Since opening in 2009, INDIAN
ACCENT in New Delhi has been
consistently ranked as the one of the
country’s top dining destinations, and
is the only restaurant in India to feature
in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants
2017. Alex Benasuli checks out its
culinary credentials for TCT.
134 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE
On Sunday 21 st May 2017, RINGLING
BROS. AND BARNUM & BAILEY said its
final farewell to a sold out crowd of
17,000 enthusiastic circus fans, at the
Nassau Veterans Memorial Coliseum
in Uniondale, 19 miles east of New
York City on Long Island. TCT charts
the 146-year history of “The Greatest
Show On Earth” and why it was forced
to pack up its big tent forever.
144 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER
Since launching his eponymous
label in 2000, GAVIN RAJAH has
demonstrated his ample skills for
original and technically superior
workmanship balanced with
creativity and commercial sensibility,
making his brand synonymous with
fine craftsmanship, luxurious
finishes and divine fabrics. The
renowned South African fashion
designer chats exclusively with The
Cultured Traveller.
112
130
144
122
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 7

EDITOR’S LETTER
When I was young my parents used to take my sister
and I to The Imperial in Torquay, which, during the
Victorian seaside resort’s heyday, was one of
Devon's most glamorous hotels, perched on a cliff-top on the
outskirts of the town since 1866. Despite being so young, to this
day I recall the chandeliers, marble floors, cornicing and formal
gardens with a sense of romance. Whilst I wonder how The
Imperial looks now, in my mind it will always be grand,
imposing and timeless. I used to love the time we spent at The
Imperial, even though we usually all stayed in the same
bedroom and apart from breakfasts we rarely dined in the hotel.
I’m often asked my favourite places to stay around the world,
or what prompts the inclusion of a property in our Rest Your
Head section. In the fast moving 21 st century hospitality
industry, with new hotels opening every week, it’s hard to
pinpoint why a hotel is “hot” or worthy of mention in The
Cultured Traveller, apart from ticking the usual boxes of
course. But now I think about it, a hotel’s longevity and
whether it will stand the test of time is a sure factor. As a child
The Imperial obviously had a profound effect on me because I
still remember it today. Back then it made me imagine how I’d
like to travel and live as an adult, if I had the means, of course.
Today there are hotels I adore because they trigger a
visceral response and always make me long to return. They
range from a homely four-room hotel on the South coast of Sri
Lanka, to a slick boutique property in the upscale downtown
heart of Beirut. Both I like immensely for completely different
reasons but are equally memorable. For those who live for our
next trips (I include myself in this group), and dream of places
before we’ve ever been there, we try to showcase in TCT hotels
that may – like The Imperial did for me – create lasting
memories rather than passing fancies.
There are at least four Rest Your Head hotels I’m rather keen
to experience (page 18), Dawn Gibson’s diary of her visit to the
seaport city of Rotterdam makes me want to rush to the
Netherlands and investigate for myself (page 44), and Ashlee
Starratt’s dreamy account of her time in UAE’s Empty Quarter
sounds like the perfect place to clear my mind (page 86). I hope
that the properties and destinations featured in this issue will
spark initial excitement, and some, like my visit to charismatic
Cartagena (page 94), will mark the beginning of a new romance.
Nicholas Chrisostomou
Editor-in-Chief
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CONTRIBUTORS
DAWN GIBSON
CITY FOCUS
Dawn Gibson is a multi-tasking journalist who is passionate about travel, fashion, food,
culture and the arts. Never happier than when about to board a plane en route to a
far-flung part of the globe, she is also a keen scuba diver always in search of the perfect
coral reef. Dawn has worked as a senior news reporter for a leading city daily newspaper
in Australia and as editor for a glossy lifestyle magazine in the Middle East. Her work has
appeared in numerous international print and online publications, including Qatar
Airways’ first class magazine Oryx Premium.
JUDITH MANSON
SUITE ENVY
After spending 20 years in the publishing industry, Judith now devotes most of
her time to organising mass participation running events in the UK and
abroad. A keen traveller from a young age, she visited New York three times
before the age of 13. Since then her ‘been to’ list has expanded to include
Australia, South Africa, Gibraltar, Greece, Italy, Spain, Switzerland and Turkey,
with plenty more on the horizon. Now MD of her own event management
company, Judith is able to combine her love for travelling and events perfectly.
ASHLEE STARRATT
NO SHOES REQUIRED
Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a
passion for story-telling, if it’s lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, she’s probably written
about it. With a background in print media and television across Canada and the Middle
East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE
magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for www.haligonia.ca, and as a
producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her
travels, collecting stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.
ALEX BENASULI
TASTE & SIP REVIEW
Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City,
he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain,
France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took
him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East.
Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen
appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten
track alternative destinations and experiences.
DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL
TRAVELLER LOWDOWN
Journalist, public speaker, dancer, explorer and mum to a cheeky one year-old, Dilraz has
a decade of experience working in the media industry across India and the Middle East.
Her portfolio includes being the editor for a women’s magazine, heading a business
publication’s editorial team, running a corporate newspaper and producing radio shows
for a channel with 45 stations across India.
A lifelong expat, Dilraz enjoys learning more about different cultures and so can be usually spotted
at museums and exhibitions - when she is not eating out or spending time with her family.
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 9

WIN A TWO-NIG
JABAL VILLA AT A
PRIZE DRAW
This incredible prize offers the lucky winner and three friends
the opportunity to spend two nights in the lap of luxury,
staying in a lavish 350m 2 two-bedroom private Jabal Villa at
exclusive Alila Jabal Akhdar mountain resort in Oman, inclusive
of return 4WD airport transfers from Muscat Airport, daily
breakfasts and evening dinners at Juniper Restaurant, plus four
individual 90-minute signature treatments at the resort’s
deluxe on-site Spa Alila.
2,000 metres above sea level, Alila Jabal Akhdar is perched on the edge of a
ravine overlooking a dramatic gorge in a central section of the Al Hajar
Mountains in northeastern Oman, in the epicentre of the highest range in the
Eastern Arabian Peninsula. This exclusive resort of just 86 beautifully appointed
suites and villas, famed for its personal service and unique location, is a calm,
secluded and boutique affair, and a veritable haven for adventure travellers,
nature lovers or those just seeking a retreat from city life.
Alila Jabal Akhdar's crowning glory (aside from the incredible views) are two
sprawling private villas, set away from the main hotel, named Rummanah and
Jowz after the pomegranates and walnuts the region is famed for. These
exclusive two-bedroom villas offer plush and spacious surroundings, plenty
large enough for a family of four or a select group of friends, each including a
huge private infinity pool facing the gorge. WWW.ALILAHOTELS.COM/JABALAKHDAR
To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email
and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM
All prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The
draw will take place after 31 st July 2017 and the lucky winner will be notified via email. This prize
can be used between 1 st September 2017 through 1 st March 2018 and is subject to blackout dates.
The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

HT HALF BOARD STAY FOR FOUR PEOPLE IN A
LILA JABAL AKHDAR IN THE OMANI MOUNTAINS
PRIZE
WORTH
USD 12,000
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 11

FESTIVAL OF
SAINT-DENIS
FRANCE
This standout classical
music festival is hosted
inside the Basilica Saint-Denis, a
masterpiece of Gothic art, and is a
great excuse to cross the périphérique
ring road and discover this delightful
northern Parisian suburb. One of the
main events in the French cultural
calendar since 1968, the festival is
organised by the city of Saint-Denis
under the auspices of the
Île-de-France region, the French
Ministry of Culture and
Communication, Le Centre des
Monuments Nationaux and Radio
France. International conductors and
soloists perform side-by-side with
prestigious Parisian orchestral acts
plus some of the greatest artists on
the international classical circuit. A
highlight of the 2017 50 th edition will
be the performance of Mozart’s
requiem by the Orchestra National de
France, the Chœur de Radio France
plus a high-level vocal soloist quartet,
conducted by James Gaffigan, musical
director of Lucerne’s celebrated
symphonic orchestra.
30 May - 30 June 2017
www.festival-saint-denis.com
DISTORTION
DENMARK
Since 1998, Distortion has
been pushing the limits of
Copenhagen’s street life and party
culture, attracting DJs from across the
globe and seeing the city centre
teeming with thousands of revellers
for five days. Almost twenty years on,
Distortion is now a mammoth
over-the-top party extravaganza that
offers massive street parties during
the day (think impromptu crowd
surfing and street-food aplenty), an
intimate club festival exploring new
music at night (Distortion Club), and,
to round off the whole thing in
spectacular fashion, a two-day rave
held at Copenhagen’s harbour
(Distortion Ø). Being such an
eco-friendly city, the street festivities
are financed by partygoers
purchasing a "Gadearmbåndet" street
bracelet so Distortion can properly
clean up Copenhagen once the
musical mayhem has finally ended.
31 May – 4 June 2017
www.cphdistortion.dk
12 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

MEADOWS IN
THE MOUNTAINS
BULGARIA
Few places on the planet
offer such an offbeat slice
of unconventional community-based
collaborative action as Meadows in
the Mountains, which takes place in
an eerily beautiful space in the
Rhodope mountains, which straddle
the border between Bulgaria and
Greece, and provide the perfect
setting and stunning vistas to tune
out of everyday life and plug into
free-spirited debauchery. Meadows in
the Mountains prides itself on its
respect for, and integration with, the
native community. Local inhabitants
house attendees and the
environmental policies are stricter
than almost every other global
gathering. This is not a festival about
global music superstars, but rather
the wild and romantic atmosphere
and an overall sense of escapism that
comes as much from revellers as from
the musicians and artists performing.
9-11 June 2017
www.meadowsinthemountains.com
RATH YATRA
INDIA
Rath Yatra is one of
India’s largest and most
important Hindu festivals, drawing
more than a million pilgrims and
devotees to the streets of Puri. Over
the years poets, saints and scriptures
have consistently praised the good
fortune associated with attending this
“festival of the chariots” since it is
one of the only times annually that
the deities leave the temple of
Jagannath allowing non-Hindus and
visitors to see them. The three
GLASTONBURY
U.K.
Glastonbury is the
grandfather of modern
day festival gatherings, launched in
1970 and now more of a settlement
than a music fest. Twice the size of
Bath and more like five or six festivals
rolled into one, Glastonbury’s more
like a refugee camp for society's arty
and most liberal than anything you'll
see elsewhere during Blighty’s
packed summer festival season. Such
breadth offers something for pretty
much everyone, attracting a vast and
diverse selection of people of around
150,000 ranging from middle-aged
backpackers with portable
deckchairs, to boozy jocks stripping
off on the first sight of sunshine,
spiritualists and yoga teachers,
dedicated hippies, yuppies, hipsters
and fashionistas. Since Glastonbury
is essentially a music festival above
all else, unsurprisingly there’s an
awful lot of musical talent to check
out. This year’s line-up is headlined
by none other than Radiohead, Katy
Perry, Ed Sheeran, Lorde, Emile Sandé
and The Jacksons, plus many more
acts to be announced across the
festival’s one hundred stages.
21-25 June 2017
www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk
figurines that make the trip are
Jagannath (considered to be the lord
of the universe and an incarnation of
Vishnu, the god of preservation), his
older brother Balabhadra, and their
sister Subhadra. They travel more
than a mile in elaborately constructed
45-foot-tall wooden chariots on Bada
Danda (Puri’s main street), from the
Jagannath Temple to the Gundicha
Temple where they remain for nine
days. During the procession - as
drums beat, gongs bang and conch
shells blow - pilgrims vie for even a
glimpse of the gods since they’re
associated with extreme good fortune
and the righting of wrongs.
25 June 2017
www.rathyatra.org

MONTREAL
INTERNATIONAL
JAZZ FESTIVAL
CANADA
Montreal is a city where a
heady mix of innovation,
musical appreciation, joie de vivre
and public celebration are all
important ingredients of the civic
cocktail. It's a city that loves the
tradition and history that jazz
WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS
FINLAND
Celebrating its 25 th year in
2017, this bizarre
competition has its roots in the tribal
practice of pillaging neighbouring
villages for womenfolk. Apparently a
robber by the name of
Rosvo-Ronkainen was particularly
keen on the practice of thieving other
people's wives in the late 1800's.
What started as a light-hearted
attraction in the small Finnish town
of Sonkajärvi has become a
world-recognised event, which sees
forty pairs from seven countries fight
to complete a 253.5 metre-course in
the fastest time. The track is made up
of sand, grass and various obstacles,
including two log hurdles plus a
one-metre deep-water obstacle. If
the wife weighs less than 49 kilos,
she must wear a rucksack to reach
this minimum weight. Various
techniques are employed to carry the
wife, the most popular being the
“Estonian” style, where the crash
helmet-wearing wife is dangling
upside down on the man’s back!
30 June - 1 July 2017
www.eukonkanto.fi/en/
represents, but also respects the
flexibility and improvisation implicit
within the genre. The city’s inaugural
jazz event in 1980 was headlined by
no other than the great Ray Charles.
Since then - aided by the resurgence
of jazz in the 1980s - the Montreal
International Jazz Festival has grown
into the largest jazz festival in the
world. Headliners for the 2017 edition
include Bob Dylan, Diana Krall
(pictured) and Melissa Etheridge, plus
the Montreal Jubilation Gospel Choir,
which has performed for Her Majesty
Queen Elizabeth II and Nelson
Mandela, and transcends the roots of
African-American spiritual music with
its wonderfully world-class eclectic
gospel sound.
28 June - 8 July 2017
www.montrealjazzfest.com
FIESTA DE SAN FERMÍN
SPAIN
Every year thousands of
Pamploneses (people
from Pamplona), plus visitors who
flood into the pretty Spanish town
from all over the world, all dressed
from head to toe in immaculate white
clothing with red handkerchiefs tied
around their necks, fill the streets of
Pamplona to celebrate the week of
festivities in honour of San Fermín,
also known as Los Sanfermines. The
festival of San Fermín mixes a variety
of contrasts: official and popular
culture, religion and profanity, new
and old, and order and chaos.
Celebrations kick off with the launch
of a rocket (el chupinazo) in
Pamplona’s Plaza Ayuntamiento at
noon on 6 th July, and end nine days
later on 14 th July. Every day includes a
much publicised bull-run, a parade of
colourful gigantes or cabezudos (big
headed giants), a bullfight, fireworks
and non-stop partying.
6-14 July 2017
www.sanfermin.com
14 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

KNYSNA
OYSTER FESTIVAL
SOUTH AFRICA
One of the rainbow
nation’s most popular
lifestyle and sporting gatherings, the
Pick n Pay Knysna Oyster Festival is a
10-day family-orientated event
aimed at foodies and sports lovers.
Oyster eating, oyster shucking, oyster
farm tours, oyster recipe challenges
and gourmet oyster-themed dinners
happen throughout the festival,
alongside wine and champagne
tastings aplenty. Attracting more than
70,000 visitors annually, oyster
lovers slurp and swallow their way
through more than 200,000 oysters
at over 20 dedicated venues which
serve the delectable molluscs au
naturel or cooked in a variety of
RED BULL
SOAPBOX RACE
U.K.
A unique no-holds-barred
downhill race spectacle, in
which drivers use only gravity and
courage as fuel (plus perhaps a
certain energy drink), Red Bull has
held more than 100 soapbox races
around the world since the first took
place in Brussels in 2000. Now an
international event staged everywhere
from Australia to Italy, amateur drivers
BASTILLE DAY
FRANCE
Marking the beginning of
one of the most violent
and famous revolutions in modern
history, Bastille Day on 14 th July
creative ways. Meanwhile the festival
hosts two top-notch competitive
sporting events - the Pick n Pay
Weekend Argus Rotary Cycle Tour and
the Pick n Pay Cape Times Knysna
Marathon - both of which are booked
up months in advance due to their
immense popularity.
7-16 July 2017
www.oysterfestival.co.za
race homemade engine-less vehicles
in a colourful downhill battle in front of
thousands of enthused fans. This
unique non-motorised racing event,
challenges both experienced racers
and amateurs alike to design and build
outrageous dream machines and
compete against the clock. Over the
years previous entries have included a
piano, a giant baby carriage, a rodeo
clown, a massive corn on the cob, a
jail cell and even the Golden Gate
Bridge. At the Red Bull Soapbox Race
at London’s Ally Pally this summer,
teams will be judged on speed,
creativity and showmanship. This
assumes, of course, that they make it
to the finish line!
9 July 2017
www.redbullsoapboxrace.com/uk/en/
celebrates French revolutionaries
storming the Bastille fortress-prison
in an event that is seen as the
uprising of the modern nation. Whilst
the largest celebrations invariably
take place in Paris, other events occur
throughout France, with the historic
fortress town of Carcassonne staging
one of the most visual pyrotechnic
parties on the planet. Two tips for
cultured travellers visiting France
around Bastille Day: Firstly, most
Parisians leave the city for the seaside
during the summer, so this is an
opportune time to bag a pretty
pied-à-terre (Paris is Airbnb's
second-biggest location on the
planet) and live like a local for this
classless people’s party. And the real
fun happens the night before on 13 th
July, with all manner of balls, dances
and parties throughout Paris.
14 July 2017

COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL
U.S.A.
The rise in popularity of
animated films, western
cartoons and Anime, as well as video
games and other fantasy novels, has
caused the Comic-Con franchise to
grow massively since the 70s.
Comic-Con International – San
Diego's four-day convergence of
costumes and fun – is where fans
meet industry stars and play in their
very own comic fantasyland. Packed
with events from autograph signings
to film screenings and costume
competitions, this behemoth
convention’s massive programming
schedule features more than 600
individual events, including hands-on
workshops, educational and
academic programming, animation
and film screenings, video games
forums, an autograph arena, portfolio
reviews, art shows, a masquerade
costume competition, and the Will
Eisner Comic Industry Awards. All in
just four days.
20-23 July 2017
www.comic-con.org
BORYEONG
MUD FESTIVAL
SOUTH KOREA
South Korea's most
popular annual festival
attracts millions to pools, slides and
wrestling arenas filled with mud!
Originally conceived as a marketing tool
for Boryeong mud cosmetics in 1998,
over time the festival has become a
vastly popular past time for visitors and
locals alike. Mud considered to be rich in
minerals used to manufacture
cosmetics in the country, is taken from
the Boryeong mud flats, 200 kilometres
south of Seoul, and driven to the
Daecheon beach area which is turned
into a mud wonderland where visitors
WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL
AUSTRIA
2017 is the 20 th
anniversary of one of the
most colourful and unusual
celebratory festivals you are ever
likely to see, the World Bodypainting
Festival, which has wowed audiences
year on year since its inception. From
make-up to tattoos, the human body
has been used as a canvas by people
all over the world for thousands of
years, with almost every culture in
history painting or adorned
themselves in some form of
celebration or ritual. Although the
name divulges basically what goes
on, there is far more to this visual
treasure trove than you might think,
with artists and models from over 40
different countries doing their best to
shock and entertain visitors. The
World Bodypainting Festival takes
place over the course of a week in the
picturesque Austrian holiday town of
Pörtschach, and has now grown into
the biggest and most well known
event of its type in the world
28-30 July 2017
www.bodypainting-festival.com
enjoy mud wrestling, mud sliding and
even swimming in a mammoth mud
bath. No festival is without controversy
of course, and in 2009 a group of more
than 200 school children developed a
skin rash after contact with the mud. But
despite the backlash the festival
continues to be incredibly popular and is,
for most South Koreans, their ultimate
summer fun destination. Particularly
energetic visitors can try the marine
mud-training course, whilst those
looking for something more relaxing can
chill in the mud massage zone. In the
evening, music and fireworks keep the
party going at the beach.
21-30 July 2017
https://english.visitkorea.or.kr
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 17

SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON
SEYCHELLES

Rest Your Head
SEYCHELLES, VENICE, KANDY, PLACENCIA, SEMINYAK, NEW YORK
PARIS, TOKYO, SÃO PAULO, CAMBRIDGE, AMSTERDAM, MALDIVES
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 19

SEYCHELLES
SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON
Four kilometres east of La Digue Island in Seychelles
lies Félicité, a small 652-acre granitic island, and the
fifth largest in an archipelago of 115. Originally a
coconut plantation in the early 1900s when it had a
native population of just 50, in the late 19 th century the
British exiled Sultan Abdullah of Perak to Félicité after
an uprising in the Perak region of Malaysia. Five years
later Sultan Abdullah moved to Mahé.
Today Félicité is most famous for its enormous
granite boulders strewn around the island in a huge
variety of jagged and curved shapes and sizes. Lending
the island a real Jurassic feel, one could easily be fooled
into thinking a dinosaur might walk out of the rocks at
any moment. Scattered along the shoreline and in the
crystalline turquoise waters, the boulders loom over
everything and are home to many species of fantastical
marine creatures. Needless to say diving in and around
Félicité is world-class. In addition to an incredible
variety of aquatic life, numerous flora, fauna, fruits and
vegetables grow throughout the island, including wild
vanilla orchids, wild mango, coconut palms, bananas
and oranges.
Whilst there are many insanely beautiful resorts in
the western Indian Ocean, little else may feel quite as
special as Six Senses Zil Pasyon, the only resort on this
private verging on primeval island. With just 30
spacious balau timber villas, ranging in size from 2,150
to 5,380 sq. ft., each is tucked into the lush vegetation
of the hillsides providing total privacy and stunning
ocean views. The décor is simple and contemporary,
decorated in a calming colour palette that reflects the
outdoors, making maximum use of high quality
materials such as local woods and blocks of Thai stone
in contrasting blue and grey tones. Every villa features a
whimsical swing for two by a giant bathtub, both facing
the ocean. There is attention to detail everywhere, from
plush towels edged in purple stitching to a chaise
carved into your personal plunge pool so you can
recline whilst admiring the view as the sun sets.
To get to the five treatment rooms of the spa, the
hammam, yoga platform and saltwater pool - all
situated on the wilder eastern side of the island - guests
must climb around massive granite boulders linked by
bouncy Robinson Crusoe-style rope bridges, making
even a walk to get a massage a mini adventure.
www.sixsenses.com/zil-pasyon

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 21

22 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

VENICE, ITALY
CHARMING HOUSE
Venice is one of the world’s most spectacular cities and to visit this centre of Italian beauty is to be immersed in the history of
an ancient and unique place. Staying in a stuffy full-service grand palazzo, bursting with antiques and reproduction artworks
and presided over by haughty staff can often cheapen the entire experience. Better to settle yourself into a classy and
intimate hotel that is every bit as different as the original grandeur that you are after all visiting Venice to see first hand.
Whilst there are seemingly hotels on every corner, few are stylish, well located, welcoming and affordable. Charming
House - a boutique hotel with three different sites in the city - has all these qualities in spades. Two of the hotels, DD724 and
DD694 (whose names are an abbreviation of their addresses in Sestiere Dorsoduro neighbourhood), are located at the very
epicentre of the enchanting Venetian art district, just steps from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Academia Gallery.
No signs mark the entrances (another good reason to name your hotel after its street address) but once inside there’s no
doubt where you are. The third property, Charming House, is located in between Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge,
making it the perfect base from which to explore the unfathomable canals and ancient streets.
Despite effectively being three separate hotels, there is an arc of unity that joins them, lovingly created through the vision
of owner Chiara Bocchini, who focused on contemporary Italian art and design to create luxurious living spaces that are richly
liveable, in warm muted colours and earthy tans and browns, splattered with unique and individual touches.
You will not find a front desk or lobby at any Charming House property - instead you are given the keys to the house and
invited to make yourself comfortable and feel at home right from the get go. A very good buffet breakfast – with fresh fruit and
pastries plus some cooked options – is included in the room rate and can be consumed in each house's stylish little breakfast
room or the privacy of your bedroom. Guest rooms range from the basic Essential category to a plush four-person Deluxe Suite.
The suite at DD694 enjoys blissful views over the Torreselle canal and the gardens of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
www.thecharminghouse.com

KANDY, SRI LANKA
SANTANI
Almost certainly Sri Lanka’s first and currently only true luxury wellness resort, Santani was inspired by the words of Finnish
architect, Juhani Uolevi Pallasmaa, who said that "All great art evokes an experience of silence. The silence of art is not a
mere absence of noise but a silence that awakes a mental and sensory awareness that connects us with the benevolent
tranquillity of the universe”. Using these words as the resort's mantra, Santani's aim is to restore balance and help you get in
touch with your inner self. With the assistance of its charming staff and for those visitors dedicated to achieving their goals,
this is achieved with aplomb at Santani.
Founded by Sri Lankan Vickum Nawagamuwage (who was educated at Harvard before being snapped up by Deloitte),
Santani is the deluxe Ayurvedic big hitter that many say the Sri Lanka hospitality industry really lacked. Perhaps a little
extreme for some but a necessity for those who take wellness more seriously than just another term used to persuade
vacationers to book a holiday, the twenty architecturally edgy rooms at Santani are conceptually designed and inspired by
the country's Buddhist meditation caves, with only one outside opening in the front, thus cutting off peripheral distractions
and allowing guests to focus and slow their minds, similar to the effect sought by meditating monks. Each simply designed
24 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

oom sits upon exposed steel pillars giving it an ‘inside-out’ feel, has been given a white wattle-and-daub finish that was
traditionally used in building walls and is finished with natural timber flooring. All slot seamlessly into the surrounding 48
acres of tea plantations and lush landscaping, which include every type of vegetation and fruit tree imaginable.
Fresh breezes replace air-conditioning (which consumes about 70% of energy use at any hotel) and almost 90% of the resort’s
timber (both structural and furniture) was recycled or up cycled, making Santani one of the most energy efficient hotels in the world.
Programmes are tailored to each guest following an initial assessment by Dr Sreekanth to determine your dosha.
Everything is covered, from weight loss to anti-ageing, joint pains to exhaustion, and trauma to depression. Thanks to
executive chef Wajira Gamage, a Relais & Château veteran who spent 16 years in France, food is super-fresh and mega
healthy made with seasonal produce sourced from local farms. Best of all are the views, maximised by floor-to-ceiling
windows, of the spectacular Knuckles mountain range, in the northern end of the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka.
Expect to leave Santani sleek, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, with your spirits cleansed, pumped and soaring.
www.santani.lk

CAMBRIDGE, U.K.
TAMBURLAINE
Famed throughout the world for its historic university, until recently Cambridge was rather lacking in cutting-edge
contemporary hospitality offerings to match the city’s young and upwardly mobile inhabitants, thriving and vibrant
scene and ongoing reinvention as a modern British metropolis.
Named after a play by Corpus Christi College fellow Christopher Marlowe, one of the university's most celebrated
alumni, the 155-room Tamburlaine hotel, located in the new CB1 development a stone’s throw from the city’s main
train station, opened in Spring 2017. Tamburlaine was the U.K. hospitality debut of Irish O’Callaghan group, best
known for its stylish Dublin hotels, including the excellent Stephen's Green Hotel.
Tamburlaine’s opening ended a long-running buzz of speculation surrounding what promised to be the
unveiling of Cambridge's most exciting hospitality project for years, and somewhat unsurprisingly the hotel has
been met with much applause. Not least, the communal areas of the hotel - each designed to have their own
identity by Shoreditch-based Bryan O’Sullivan Studio - have proved to be immensely popular. The dramatic
double-height lobby is bright, playful and colourful, with quirky modern chandeliers hanging from the ceilings and
rich parquet flooring underfoot. It is overlooked by an elegant library, its cosy atmosphere induced by gently sagging
bookshelves, timber panelled walls and super comfy furniture just begging to be sat in.
In a further nod to the distinct culture and history of its location, guest rooms come in three scholarly
accommodation categories: Fresher rooms boast floor-to-ceiling windows; Some of the Scholar rooms on the
upper floors have private balconies; and the three-bedroomed Dean suites on the top floors offer panoramic vistas
across the city and surrounding countryside. Yet despite their size and price differentials, all guest rooms are
furnished in the hotel's ubiquitous traditional-yet-contemporary design ethic featuring bespoke furniture, wood
panelling, polished concrete surfaces and patterned velvets, all offset by a soothing Cambridge Blue colour scheme.
But if all the calming blues get a little too much, there are a host of dining and drinking options downstairs to liven
even the most exhausted of travellers, including a bustling bar and restaurant – where a dramatic carved marble
bar takes centre stage in the large and elegant Brasserie-style dining room - which draws a crowd from early
morning until the wee hours. Here the simple seasonal menu is laden with tasty dishes prepared using locally
sourced ingredients courtesy of award-winning chef, Alan Dann.
www.thetamburlaine.co.uk
26 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

The Ultimate Mountain Villa Retreat
Starting USD 2000
plus taxes per night
Immerse in the fresh air and quiet beauty of the mountain with a stay in Alila Jabal Akhdar’s most spacious and private havens
– the magnificent Jabal Villas. Just imagine…361 sqm of indoor and outdoor space with all the luxurious comforts of home, the
perks of a private pool, jacuzzi, steam room, and a personal butler at your beck and call. Indulge in our exclusive Jabal Villa package
featuring a host of complimentary food and beverage, spa privileges, and activities for the whole family, in one truly great escape.
Package Inclusions:
Return airport transfers from Muscat
Unlimited food during the stay (including in-room service)
Complimentary beverages replenished daily in MY BAR
Selected beverages during dinner
Four 90 minute spa treatments during the stay
One Alila experience - “The Village Walk”
Alila hospitalities with our compliments
Morning yoga classes based on weekly schedule
Alila Living bath amenities
Access to PLAY Alila kids’ club
Access to Wi-Fi in rooms and public areas
Terms & Conditions:
Valid until 30th September 2017
Minimum 2-night stay
Maximum occupancy, 4 adults and 2 children below 12 years
Spa treatment, prior reservation is required
Rates are subject to 17% taxes and service charge
Transfer with our compliments
Accessible by 4-wheel drive only
Maximum 4 adults including 3 pieces of luggage are permitted in one car
Extra charges are applicable for 2nd car (if required)
#AlilaJabalAkhdar
@alilajabalakhdar

752 GOURAUD STREET • SAIFI VILLAGE • BEIRUT • LEBANON • +961 76 99 76 76 • INFO@GILTBEIRUT.COM • WWW.GILTBEIRUT.COM

PLACENCIA, BELIZE
ITZ’ANA RESORT
Located in southern Belize (formerly British Honduras) on the eastern coast of Central America, about a two hour
drive from the capital Belmopan, Placencia in the south of the nation is a gorgeous emerald peninsula with 16 miles
of sandy beaches. The Caribbean Sea lies to the east and the charming Placencia lagoon to the west, looking
towards the Maya Mountains on the mainland. Many cultured travellers visit Placencia during the months of April,
May and June to kayak, snorkel, saltwater fly fish, and swim and dive with giant whale sharks at the Gladden Spit
Marine Reserve. There’s also a very popular annual lobster fest. Whilst in colonial times Placencia was primarily a
fishing village, it has now become one of the Caribbean’s most popular beach paradise destinations.
Billed as “an ode to the great Caribbean estates of years past” and named after the Mayan god of day and night,
Itz'ana Resort & Residences, a 20-acre estate, recently opened in Placencia. Comprising 47 guest rooms plus 47
private residences, Itz’ana is designed around a traditional Great House, where guests gather for eating, imbibing,
socialising and relaxing. Here you’ll also find Limilia restaurant, which serves a sea-to-table inspired menu to
diners who look out across spectacular views of the Caribbean. Vegetables are sourced from Itz’ana’s own organic
farm, while the resort’s in-house fishermen catch fresh fish daily. The Great House is also home to the private Rum
Room, where a dedicated rum sommelier serves spirits from all over Latin America and the Caribbean. There’s also
a Hemingway-inspired library, a rooftop deck where sunrise yoga classes take place overlooking the sea, and a fully
equipped spa with a meditation room, a saltwater pool and five treatment rooms where locally sourced rainforest
botanicals are utilised for a wide range of bespoke rejuvenating treatments.
Designed by renowned architect Roberto de Oliveira Castro, rooms and suites feature vaulted ceilings, open
plans layouts, over-water decks, private pools and glorious views greeting guests at every turn. Whilst NYC-based
interior designer Samuel Amoia has mixed Central American patterns with a modern aesthetic to create an entirely
unique hospitality feel.
www.itzanabelize.com
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 29

30 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

TOKYO, JAPAN
MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO
Floating 38 storeys above the ground, the Japanese capital's Mandarin Oriental is the perfect locale to get your bearings in a
city as chaotic as Tokyo. Housed within the sleek Cesar Pelli-designed Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower, located in the quiet and
relatively old Nihonbashi district (historically the heart of the capital), and boasting some of the best views across the
sprawling metropolis, your arrival via a super-fast elevator probably won’t prepare you for the spectacular. The check-in area
- all floor-to-ceiling plate-glass windows and brisk efficiency - has the sublime city skyline as its backdrop, and, on a clear
day, you can see Mount Fuji from your breakfast table. The hotel’s location is pretty much perfect, since it is both close to
busy Ginza, which is home to some of the city’s most upscale stores (including the fantastic Chanel boutique), and the
Mitsukoshi-Mae subway is in the basement and big stations such as Shibuya are just 20 minutes away.
Much like the city itself, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo marries contemporary chic with classic luxury, superlative service and
Japanese-themed design rather well. The hotel's 157 rooms and 21 suites are super tasteful abodes of predominantly
cherry-brown timber and black granite, with nature-inspired design themes prevailing via delicate leaf-motif fabrics created
by the textile designer Reiko Sudo, complemented by paper lanterns and bamboo walls. Guest rooms are also chock-a-block
with nifty utilitarian detailing and functionality, as you’d expect from a city as advanced as Tokyo. Think hallway-accessible
service closets into which invisible housekeepers deposit newspapers or freshly polished shoes, elegant kimonos hanging in
the wardrobes and waterfall-style showers tucked into semi-enclosed marble alcoves. Add to all this Japanese efficiency and
modernity a dozen (yes 12) different eateries, which range from a gastromolecular tapas bar to fine French dining and
authentic Cantonese fare, and you have the makings of a veritable hospitality heaven in the sky. Three of the hotel’s
restaurants are Michelin-starred, and whilst eight-cover Sushi Sora is a must (yes it has just 8 seats) and offers unparalleled
views of Tokyo Skytree, the pizzas on 38 th are possibly as good as you’ll find in New York.
www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo

AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS
SIR ALBERT
Set in a red brick 19 th century former diamond factory in
the heart of Amsterdam’s hip multicultural De Pipj
neighbourhood, hoteliers Liran Wizman and Bram van
der Hoek took the design hotel concept into new
territory when they came up with the concept for their
engaging and original Sir Albert Hotel.
In the minds of Wizman and van der Hoek, Sir Albert is
someone who personifies the qualities of old-fashioned
sophistication, and is an imaginary aristocratic type who
has thrown open his family mansion to friends and
family. Sir Albert is the sort of chatty but charming host
who would leave a post-it note on your bathroom mirror
and whose favourite artworks, trinkets, cabinets of
curiosities and mementoes are dotted about everywhere.
But Sir Albert's style is not retro – rather one of strong
shapes, clean lines and sombre colours (think black,
chocolate and fawn) and his approach to service and
luxury are modern and proper.
From the moment you walk into the hotel you’re
welcomed like old friends and offered a glass of
prosecco during the informal check-in before being
whisked to your lodgings by an amiable member of
staff. The sleek five-storey hotel has 90 rooms and
suites which combine cool contemporary styling with
dashes of opulence, perfect for those who see
themselves - as Sir Albert would say - as modern
aristocrats. All rooms are low-key but high-tech,
equipped with iPod docking stations, espresso makers,
and in all rooms from ‘deluxe’ level upwards, an iPad
that you may borrow and take around town during your
stay. Bathrooms are spacious and well appointed, with a
stylish bowl-shaped sink and rain showerhead over a
luxuriously long tub.
Downstairs there's a bijou but comfortable sitting area
called the Study, lined with shelves laden with books,
Italian scuffed leather chairs and a slate floor softened by
a Persian rug. The hotel’s wildly popular on-site Japanese
restaurant, IZAKAYA Asian Kitchen & Bar, is well designed
and something of a culinary hotspot in the city.
In a city which can often take itself a little too
artistically seriously when it comes to 5-star hotels, Sir
Albert is a very well located hybrid of new and old
Amsterdam, offering cosmopolitan hipness married with a
welcome amount of warmth and a fun sense of humour.
www.siralberthotel.com

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 33

PARIS, FRANCE
MAISON ALBAR HOTEL PARIS CÉLINE
In a city as beautiful as Paris - which is simply drenched in culture, fine dining and so much to see - one often
spends precious little time in your hotel room. But guests at Maison Albar Hotel Paris Céline would be forgiven for
not stepping out of the original headquarters of Céline, a lovingly restored 1866 classic Parisian townhouse
complete with Georges-Eugene Haussmann façade, concealing the über-modern luxe accommodation within.
Luxuriating in this stylish understated Parisian boutique hotel, with its contemporary edge and emphasis on local
character and attention to detail, essentially delivers several facets of Parisian life to your very guest room.
Paris Céline is the brainchild of fourth generation Albar family Céline Falco (née Albar) and her husband
Jean-Bernard; the couple having embraced the family motto of excellence in hospitality with a refined eye on design
and service. Thanks to their close collaboration with Alexandre Danan from EDO European Design Office, the
interiors ensure that what is a relatively petite hotel boasts plenty of big design features. With sixty rooms, a spa by
Cinq Mondes, an underground swimming pool with glass ceiling looking up to the Paris sky, and Odette restaurant
by the esteemed Rostang family, it’s easy to see why the Falcos are billing Paris Céline as their flagship property.
Guest rooms and suites and bedecked in velvet, wood, leather and brass, with an abundance of marble in the
bathrooms. All look out onto either the street in front or an internal courtyard, with the notable exception of the 1923
Room, a large space on the top floor that boasts 180-degree views of the city from its huge floor-to-ceiling windows.
If you do manage to drag yourself away from your luxurious lodgings and the hotel’s top-end on-site facilities,
Paris Céline is located in the city’s prime 1 st arrondissement, known for its historic buildings and extravagant
surroundings near Notre Dame, the Louvre and Les Halles, and just a few minutes from the Seine. And though the
luxury fashion house that led the way in haute couture has long since moved to other premises, the connection
with the world of fashion still remains, with the high-end boutiques of the Rue de Rivoli just a short stroll away
from this fashionable yet wonderfully welcoming hotel.
www.maison-albar-hotel-paris-celine.com
34 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

SOMETIMES, REALITY IS BETTER THAN IMAGINATION
reservation@chedimuscat.com
chedimuscat.com

36 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

SÃO PAULO, BRAZIL
PALÁCIO TANGARÁ
São Paulo-born landscape architect Roberto Burle
Marx's designs of parks and gardens made him world
famous. You can see Burle Marx’s work all over the
world, from Miami to Kuala Lumpur. The density of
the flora and botanicals combined with an inherent
jungle vibe make visitors and residents alike fall in
love with Burle Marx Park, a veritable oasis in the
centre of São Paulo's vibrant urban landscape,
located in a wealthy area surrounded by imposing
and unique buildings which frame the park.
Embraced by Burle Marx Park, prestigious Oetker
Collection’s newest hospitality masterpiece, Palácio
Tangará, which was unveiled to the world on 10 th
May 2017, provides an exclusive yet verdant escape
from the city that is still close enough to most
landmarks, such as the MASP Museum of Art and the
Jardins luxury shopping district.
Palácio Tangará was brought to life by architect
Patricia Anastassiadis, who drew inspiration from
Brazilian art and natural landscapes, together with
interior designer Bick Simonato. Together they deftly
blended the Germany-based Oetker Collection’s
refined European aesthetic with traditional Brazilian
elements, incorporating nods at every opportunity to
the lush landscapes that lie beyond the hotel’s walls.
The Grand Lobby is hung with works by artist Laura
Vinci which echo the same greenery found in Burle
Marx Park. The Burle Bar features photographs of the
Amazon rainforest by Cristian Cravo, Araquem
Alcantara and Alessandro Gruetzmacher. In Tangará
Jean-Georges - Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges
Vongerichten’s first restaurant in the Southern
Hemisphere - a green carpet imitates the bottom of
the lake and reflection of the forest on the water.
To further remind guests of the incredible
landscapes outside, the interior colour palette of the
each of the 82 guest rooms and 59 suites is blue,
beige, grey and green, with the focal point of each
being its private balcony or terrace where guests can
soak in the sweeping views of the city and park.
Meanwhile the hotel's Flora Spa has six treatment
rooms with experiences designed by Sisley-Paris, the
fitness centre has state-of-the-art equipment by
Technogym, a half-Olympic heated indoor pool and
an acclimatised outdoor 20-metre pool.
www.palaciotangara.com/eng

Live the holidays you’ve always dreamed of , under the shadow of Holy Mount
Athos, a UNESCO World Heritage Monument in Greece…
…welcome to Avaton Luxury Villas Resort!
Halkidiki, Greece
www.avaton.com

SEMINYAK, BALI
KATAMAMA
Katamama is little brother to seminal Seminyak favourite Potato Head Beach Club, known for its multi-cultural
blend of gastronomy, libations and entertainment that skilfully combines music, art and fashion in one inimitable
venue. Since PHBC has given visitors to the Indonesian island some of their most memorable and fun experiences
to date, you know you’re in safe hands at 57-room Katamama, a striking resort just 45-minutes drive from the
airport, located in the fashionable Petitenget district of Seminyak. Complete with on-site dining, beachfront access
and a multitude of vibrant bars and restaurants and funky shops and boutiques within a stone’s throw makes
Katamama perfectly positioned for those hedonists visiting Bali looking to experience the best the island’s party and
beach scenes have to offer.
Whilst every detail at Katamama has been handmade or handpicked using some of Indonesia's centuries-old
traditions, this is a hotel that isn’t afraid to make a statement. The striking brutalist red brick architecture sets the
contemporary-meets-traditional tone, whilst sartorial sophistication permeates the interior where mid-century
furniture, statement lighting, contemporary art and moody hues add good looking decorative clout to buzzing
cocktail bar The Akademi and rather excellent MoVida restaurant, all presided over by funky tablet-wielding servers.
Guest rooms are bedecked with denim rugs, brightly coloured weaves, edgy Indonesian artworks and retro
low-slung furniture. Whilst most of the accommodation doesn’t offer especially amazing views, all boast big
bathrooms with monsoon showers and soaking tubs, and cool cocktail bars stocked with fine infused spirits, natural
syrups and aromatic bitters. Book a Rooftop Suite for a decent view of the Indian Ocean, or a Pool Suite for a private
plunge pool. If you’re a pop star, wannabe DJ or both, the sprawling palatial 320m 2 Katamama Suite is a veritable
self-contained two-bedroomed party pad, complete with rooftop garden, giant Jacuzzi and outdoor shower.
www.katamama.com
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 39

40 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

NEW YORK, U.S.A.
THE WHITBY
Firmdale's much-anticipated second New
York property, The Whitby, opened a couple
of months ago, marking the eclectic hotel
brand’s second Manhattan location after
The Crosby opened in 2009.
Conceptualised and hand fashioned by
Kit Kemp - Firmdale's co-owner and chief
interior designer - The Whitby is located in
Midtown Manhattan on West 56 th Street at
5 th Avenue, just two blocks from Central
Park, allowing easy access to many of New
York's leading eateries, shops and
museums. Whilst obviously showcasing
Kemp’s quirky English eclecticism, The
Whitby feels a touch more adult in its
design, attitude and positioning, although
no less full of decorative flourishes and
fanciful touches incorporating fun twists,
with contemporary art and the lavish use of
bold patterns and characterful textiles again
forming part of the interior design palette.
The Whitby incorporates a private
state-of-the-art screening room with comfy
leather seating for 130 and advanced Dolby
Atmos sound and projection technology
including 3D capability. Meanwhile The
Whitby Bar & Restaurant is a rich, colourful
and airy high-ceilinged space, dominated by
a gorgeous 30-foot pewter bar and
beautifully upholstered banquette seating.
Upstairs 86 individually designed rooms and
suites in eleven categories spread over sixteen
floors all feature floor-to-ceiling windows and
handsomely designed bathrooms. Many also
boast private terraces – with outside space
being something of a rarity in central
Manhattan this is a huge attraction to visitors.
The hotel’s crowning glory is The Whitby
Suite which occupies the entire top floor and
boasts two king size bedrooms, two
oversized white marble bathrooms, a large
living cum dining room, guest powder room
and kitchen, plus two sweeping terraces
offering stunning views of New York from
different sides of the hotel.
www.firmdalehotels.com

42 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

MALDIVES
SONEVA JANI
It’s really a wonder that the Maldives hasn’t yet run out of islands upon which to build deluxe resorts! Founded by Sonu and
Eva Shivdasani - he a British-Indian businessman and she a former Swedish model - their first hotel, Soneva Fushi, opened
in 1995 and pioneered around-the-clock butler service, a strong environmental code and a determination to completely
disconnect visitors from the stresses of the outside world: On arrival guests are politely asked to remove their shoes which
are slipped into linen bags until they leave the island. Soneva Gili followed five years later showcasing the first overwater
villas in the Maldives. Unveiled in October 2016 – almost twenty-two years after opening their first Maldives resort – Soneva
Jani is the latest masterstroke from the Soneva team, a company which has skilfully redefined luxury vacationing for a new
affluent, seasoned and demanding generation of holidaymakers.
Soneva Jani consists of five little sand and palm-fringed islets, set in a spectacular kaleidoscopic lagoon in the Noonu
Atoll. Snaking off the biggest island - a former vegetable farm - is a 1.8km jetty connected to just two dozen palatial
overwater villas, each one bigger than some hotels. The largest can comfortably accommodate a family of ten. But whilst the
scale of the villas may be extraordinary, everything else about this resort is sophisticatedly understated, thanks in large part
to Eva, the interior design guru, who showcases beautiful yet functional Scandinavian restraint in all of Soneva Jani’s
individually designed villas. Each one light and bright with vaulted ceilings, bamboo floors and white rattan furniture, is a
lesson in how to execute luxury, functionality and style in absolutely perfect Maldivian unity. Think oval windows, portholes
in the floors revealing the marine life below, push-button retractable ceilings above the beds to unveil the starry night skies
above, and round sunken sofas littered with hand-dyed soft furnishings from Sri Lanka. Some villas even feature water
slides. Every detail has been carefully considered and lovingly executed, and it’s this level of attention and detailing which
make Soneva resorts so achingly beautiful and uniquely special.
www.soneva.com/soneva-jani

ROTTERDAM
44 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

DAWN GIBSON
EXPLORES HOLLAND’S
ARCHITECTURALLY
RICH PORT CITY

VIEW FROM EUROMAST TOWER
Do otted with some of the most head-turning
contemporary architecture in the world, Rotterdam
is a sublimely striking modern metropolis and one
of fED
Europe’s most distinctive cities. Re-invented as a matter
of necessity after the centre was almost completely
destroyed during WWII, the Netherlands’ strategically
positioned North Sea port, at the mouth of the Nieuwe
Maas, is an ever evolving tribute to the vision of future
thinking international architects, including renowned
Rotterdam-born Rem Koolhaas. The glittering blue
waterfront and wide well kept thoroughfares are flanked by
futuristic skyscrapers that compete to be noticed. Yet the
soaring creations of glass, steel and chrome are
interspersed at street level with a plethora of modern art
and sympathetic landscaping that keep the mood friendly
and human. And beyond the award-winning architecture,
numerous unique facets are contributing to the growing
reputation of the nation’s second city as a chic alternative
for cultured travellers, especially amongst those
international adventurers seeking something different to the
same old city break destinations.
While it will never rival Amsterdam’s reputation for
hedonism, Rotterdam has a more nuanced ability to delight
in a way that has found favour with an increasing number
of in-the-know visitors. As Europe’s largest cargo port it
seems a most unlikely contender for the latest hip,
happening and cultural destination. However, initial
impressions are often deceiving, just as much as for cities
as for people. Gaze beyond the bustling port known as the

“Dotted with some
of the most
head-turning
contemporary
architecture in the
world, Rotterdam is
a sublimely striking
modern metropolis
and one of
Europe’s most
distinctive cities ”
ERASMUSBRUG
‘Gateway to Europe’ and suddenly a multitude of
world-class art galleries and museums come into view,
within an easy stroll from charming streets bursting with
bohemian cafés and lively clubs.
Gourmands will relish the Michelin-starred establishments,
including two-star FG Restaurant, Parkheuvel and
Restaurant Fred, as well as one-star eateries Joelia, FG Food
Labs and Amarone. Well-informed foodie sources say it’s
only a matter of time before some more stars are sprinkled
about, which is a considerable achievement given that
Rotterdam is a relatively small city of just over 600,000. But
whilst the number of inhabitants may be small they
certainly know how to party, with a very full calendar of
festivals, exhibitions, cultural and sporting events, including
Koningsdag (King’s Day) in April and Europe’s second
biggest Caribbean carnival in July (www.en.rotterdam.info).
Within the cityscape itself plenty of surprises abound. Walk
the streets or jump on a water taxi and you will soon
discover that, while most of Rotterdam is bold and modern,
there are pockets of the old town waiting to be discovered
down quiet laneways and sleepy canals, telling snippets of a
fascinating maritime story that started when a little fishing
village sprung up beside a dam built in the Rotte River
around 1270. Elegant canal houses are not as ubiquitous as
in Amsterdam, but they are there if you care to look, as are
smart gingerbread and cream 19 th century mansions, the
status symbols of an era when some made their fortune on
the seas and others gathered on the nearby docks to
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 47

emigrate en masse, hoping that better luck was waiting for
them in the New World.
While yesteryear’s travellers would arrive and depart by
steamship, these days Rotterdam is well serviced by
numerous airlines flying into RTM airport as well as much
larger Schiphol, the latter providing the most choice in
terms of fares and flight times. From Schiphol take a fast
30-minute train ride to Rotterdam’s Centraal station - with
more than 80 trains daily it’s a faster option than the
45-minute drive. Rotterdam has a very efficient and
extensive public transport network well connected to RET
intercity and inter-country trains, so unless you’re planning
to drive out of the city you won’t need a hire car. A
three-day Rotterdam Welcome Card, providing unlimited
travel within the RET metro, tram and bus network, costs
EUR 20 and includes discounts at various attractions
silhouette of one of the 1990s most talked about buildings,
the Kunsthal, a glass-fronted gallery for contemporary art,
designed by Koolhaas. (www.kunsthal.nl/en). In case you
have any doubt about the building’s purpose, there is a
sculpture of a camel and his driver by Henk Visch perched
jauntily on the roof. In brilliant contrast, a short distance
across the road is the Koningin Emmaplein (Queen
Emmaplein), an enchanting semi-circle of
neo-Renaissance red brick mansions arranged around a
central square, built in the late 19 th century for the elite
business community. I am unsure if the stark juxtaposition
is by clever design or coincidence, but it seems as apt a
symbol of Rotterdam’s contrasting faces as any I come
across. To reach Euromast I cross Het Park - a calming
Central Park-style expanse of lush greenery and
established botanicals.
“Re-invented as a matter of necessity after the
centre was almost completely destroyed during
WWII, the Netherlands’ strategically positioned
North Sea port is an ever evolving tribute to the
vision of future thinking international architects ”
(www.rotterdamwelcomecard.com). Meanwhile get your
bearings before you leave home by downloading the free
Rotterdam Tourist Info app that incorporates an events
calendar and handy overview of the city’s Wi-Fi spots.
My first of a four-day visit is fresh and breezy, as I head out
from Hotel New York to walk to Euromast, an observation
tower that promises unrivalled panoramic views
(www.euromast.nl). My route takes me across the iconic
Erasmusbrug, an impressive steel suspension bridge that
links the north and south of the city across the Maas,
affectionally dubbed ‘The Swan’ by locals because of its
distinctive shape. Making sure to stay out of the path of the
dozens of speedy cyclists, I turn left onto the Westzeedijk,
a wide, soulless thoroughfare which skirts the border of the
Museumpark. Walking past, I easily spot the wide, low
48 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017
Euromast was built in 1960 to an original height of 100
metres before being extended upwards to 185 a decade
later. When I visit the tower is on the verge of a two-week
closure for renovations, including a facelift to the restaurant
and a lick of paint to the exterior. I enjoy a divine lunch at
the restaurant while relishing the sweeping views of the city
beneath my feet. Afterwards I board a circular elevator that
slowly revolves, giving a 360° panorama of the city through
giant windows as it rises to the very top. It’s a wonderful
way to literally get a big picture – I could see all the way
back along the route I had just walked, to the Erasmus
Bridge and the three linked towers of the largest building in
the Netherlands, De Rotterdam (another Koolhaas design);
across the water to the former Chinatown precinct of
Katendrecht and moored ship SS Rotterdam. To cap it off,
after a slightly sullen start to the day, the sun breaks
RATHAUS

SUMMER CARNIVAL
CENTRAL STATION
EUROMAST PARK
WESTERSINGEL, ARTWORK ‘SYLVETTE’ BY PABLO PICASSO (1970)

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through the clouds just as I am
retrieving my camera from my bag,
giving the sky a photo-perfect soft wash
of blue like a watercolour painting.
As I explore further during the next few
days, I decide that walking is the most
enjoyable way to get around since there
is so much to see en route. The
Westersingel sculpture trail is a perfect
example. Start at Rotterdam Centraal –
a work of art in its own right with its
dramatic solar panel-clad roof – and
walk along the Westersingel canal
towards Westzeedijk. The route features
17 works from the city’s international
collection, including many by prominent
names such as Rodin, Carel Visser and
Joel Shapiro. The canal setting
complements the art well – the
sculptures seamlessly blending into the
urban landscape, providing much
welcome aesthetically beautiful
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 51

DELFSHAVEN
LAURENSKERK
MUSEUM ROTTERDAM
“While it will never rival
Amsterdam’s reputation for
hedonism, Rotterdam has a
more nuanced ability to
delight in a way that has
found favour with an
increasing number of
in-the-know visitors ”
distractions. The sculptures are very much a cultural
amuse-bouche, whetting one’s artistic appetite for the
sights within Museumpark at the southern end of
Westersingel. The park includes Museum Boijmans Van
Beuningen housing a world-class collection of Dutch and
European masterpieces (www.boijmans.nl/en), The New
Institute of architecture, fashion, design and e-culture, and
a rather good natural history museum
(www.cityguiderotterdam.com).
Once you have had your fill of museums, walk back to the
Westersingel and amble down the Witte de Withstraat, the
city’s artistic heart, lined with galleries, avante garde fashion
boutiques, hipster cafes, restaurants and bars. Immerse
yourself in new media art and underground films at
52 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017
42

MARKTHAL
alternative cultural centre WORM (www.worm.org), or while
away an hour at the Witte de With Center for Contemporary
Art (www.wdw.nl/en/). The Witte de Withkwartier is a cool
place to find yourself as day turns to night, as it’s well
known for its vibrant pub, club and restaurant scene. Visit
Supermercado for feisty Latin American fare and chilled
tequilas (www.supermercadorotterdam.nl), Café LaBru for
relaxed drinks with friends
(www.facebook.com/pg/CafeLaBru) and underground
Wunderbar for quirky craft beers
(www.worm.org/venues/wunderbar/).
Another neighbourhood with an intriguing past and present
is the Laurenskwartier. The district is home to the only
building that survives from medieval times, Church of St.
Lawrence (Laurenskerk) built between 1449 and 1525,
which now stands proudly beside some of Rotterdam’s most
cutting-edge contemporary structures, including Piet
Blom’s famous Cube Houses, and one of the city’s newest
landmarks, MVRDV’s spectacular Markthal, a space-age
horseshoe of apartments looped over a covered market hall
(www.markthal.nl/en). Step inside Markthal’s enormous
entrance arch and be prepared to be parted from your Euros.
The interior is a gastronomic wonderland of colours, smells
and textures, with stalls offering a boggling variety of
processed meats, pyramids of yellow, crimson and smoky
brown spices, fresh seafood laid out on beds of ice, and, of
course, dozens of varieties of cheese. One of the more
unusual items I spotted was a shiitake mushroom growing
kit – a curious, pale brown stump that looked like it was

missing a goblin atop it! I eventually settled on some
handmade chocolates and rounds of Edam cheese on the
basis that they would be easier to get home. Buoyed with
my purchases I caught a metro across town to explore an
entirely different pocket of Rotterdam, and one that I had
been relishing visiting since I first hearing of it: Delfshaven.
Like Laurenskerk, Delfshaven is one of the jewels of the old
city that miraculously survived the 1940 bombardment. A
short walk from the river near Euromast, it may as well be
in another world to the busy streets surrounding it. Stroll
along Delfshaven’s herringbone-paved lanes alongside the
canal, and the sounds of cars and trams fade into the
distance, replaced by the tinkle of bicycle bells and the soft
chatter of old friends sitting outside cafés. Old-fashioned
street lamps line the waterfront, and it is so quiet that I can
hear a church bell chime the hour as I walk along admiring
the boats moored in the little marina. Dating back to 1389,
Delfshaven has a wonderfully rich history: it was the
departure point for the Pilgrim Fathers on their journey to
the Americas and the birthplace of Dutch maritime hero
Piet Hein. Previously home to herring fishermen and gin
distillers, the tall, handsome canal houses are now used as
art studios, antique stores, gin bars and beer breweries. I
stop for a drink at one of the pocket-sized pubs and then
wander back outside, where the light of the afternoon is
fading swiftly into evening shadows. A pair of ducks is
waddling around near a parked bicycle on the other side of
the street. They look like a good subject for a photo, so I
bring out my camera and walk slowly towards them,
hoping I can get close enough. But, despite my best efforts,
they see me – and to my surprise, instead of shuffling
away, they move closer to pose cheekily for the camera,
entirely unafraid and clearly enjoying the attention. I get
my picture and wander back along the canal front, where
the lights of the lamps and the houses create a fairylike
glow over the water. Walking to a nearby street to catch a
tram back to my hotel is a rushed jolt back to the present,
full of urban noise and bright glaring neon. The tram rattles
down the track and through the window I see once again
the sleek shapes of new offices and apartments climbing
into the evening sky, more cranes on the horizon, the
epitome of an up-to-the-minute hub. However it is the
glimpses of the city’s multi-layered past, the ghosts of
seafarers and fishermen, merchants and pilgrims, which
give Rotterdam its charismatic heart. Old and new,
side-by-side, seamlessly fused in one dynamic, innovative,
constantly moving city – this is the uniqueness, energy
and essence of Rotterdam.
ALSTERARKADEN

“Walk the streets or jump on
a water taxi and you will
soon discover that, while
most of Rotterdam is bold
and modern, there are
pockets of the old town
waiting to be discovered
down quiet laneways and
sleepy canals ”
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 55

STAY
HOTEL NEW YORK
While numerous hotels around the globe are promoted as iconic
landmarks, the Hotel New York has a far more compelling claim than most.
The former headquarters of the Holland America Line, this grand old
maritime lady is steeped in history, from its boardrooms and now luxurious
master suites, to the original art deco furnishings and spectacular wrought
iron central staircase. Presiding regally over the end of Wilhelmina Pier
since 1901, the building was the departure point for hundreds of
thousands of emigrants leaving the Old World for America in the dawning
decades of the 20 th century. Reincarnated as a hotel in 1993, the property
is now part of Dutch hospitality group WestCord Hotels.
Hotel New York is located on the south side of Erasmus Bridge, 15 minutes
by train or taxi from Rotterdam’s Centraal station. One of its most
charming selling points is the sheer variety in its 72 rooms, many of which
overlook the Maas. Not least there are dual aspect corner rooms and two
quirky tower rooms with spiral staircases leading to the roof. The Cultured
Traveller stayed in one of the spacious 53m 2 boardroom suites on the first
floor, of which there are only two. Big picture windows set into curved
wood-panelled walls look over the river, and a large oval bath is set in front
of the windows so you can watch the boats as you soak. It is a slightly
strange experience, especially given that you may be bathing where the
chairman of the board once dictated his letters. The décor is reminiscent of
an old-fashioned gentlemen’s club - all deep purple velvet furnishings and
art deco lamps, even a grand open fireplace, lit upon request. The absence
of a mini-bar is more than compensated by attentive room service
delivered by genuinely friendly and highly professional staff. I had several
chats with doorman Arie, who initially came to deliver a glass of red and
light the fire. For those who crave opulence but are not keen on purple
velvet, the second boardroom in a more subdued palette of white and
cream is a less dramatic choice.
Since the hotel is popular with both locals and visitors alike, the ground
floor café-restaurant is usually busy from early morning until late at night,
especially on the weekends, serving buffet breakfasts, à la carte lunches
and dinners and afternoon teas of sinfully delicious cream cakes. There’s
also an oyster counter and a long pub-style bar. For a more intimate
backdrop head downstairs to the recently opened NY Basement for
contemporary European cuisine and inventive handcrafted cocktails plus a
side order of live jazz. Conveniently Hotel New York also boasts its own
water taxi station directly outside.
With walls that could tell a thousand stories and a historic past deeply
ingrained into the building’s very structure, dropping anchor at Hotel New
York is undoubtedly a highly memorable stay experience. Part oversized
boutique hotel and part antique treasure, this classy old lady is looking
exquisitely good for her years.
www.hotelnewyork.com
56 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

58 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

STAY
ROTTERDAM MARRIOTT HOTEL
Its prime downtown location and generously sized rooms are the main
attractions of the Marriott, which confidently bills itself as Rotterdam’s
leading hotel. Situated directly opposite the main train station, the hotel
occupies the first 15 floors of a glass and steel tower that is entirely in tune
with the vibrant, up-to-the-minute streetscape of one of Europe’s
trendiest ports.
The hotel has undergone extensive interior redesign works since it was
rebranded a Marriott just over a year ago. Many of the 230 guest rooms and
suites have been redecorated in a sophisticated colour palette of delicate
cream, biscuit brown and soft grey, and kitted out with furniture that nods
to the city’s obsession with sleek and cool design. Rooms range from 30m 2
for a superior room (which is fairly large considering it is prime city centre
locale), to a sumptuous Presidential Suite featuring separate living and
dining rooms and all the usual mod cons you’d expect from a top-end
Dutch hospitality entertaining pad. Whilst executive rooms and suites
include Illy espresso machines, complimentary breakfast and access to an
exclusive 10th floor lounge, it’s the views that really set the Rotterdam
Marriott Hotel apart. Many rooms offer amazing vistas, giving guests a
bird’s eye view of some of the most cutting-edge architecture on the planet.
The Cultured Traveller stayed in a newly redecorated corner suite on the
twelfth floor with giant sound-proofed windows on two sides, providing a
sweeping panorama of the city. Sitting on a cushioned window seat, one
could watch commuters scurrying along like ants on the bustling
Westersingel below. Directly opposite the hotel is Calypso, a 22-floor luxury
apartment complex with bright red accents, designed by British architect
Will Alsop to appear as if it is floating. As day turned to night, and the
towers lit up all the way to the Erasmus Bridge in the distance, it all became
a somewhat mesmerising spectacle.
The hotel has two distinct F&B offerings: the Breakfast Brasserie which is an
expansive space overlooking the hotel front and the station, and Pillars Bar &
Restaurant, an all-day dining venue offering a diverse menu of international
fare, just off the ground floor lobby. It’s worth booking at least one evening
meal at Pillars to experience the three-course chef’s menu, which during my
visit featured halibut ceviche, slow-cooked beef with beech mushrooms and
pumpkin cream, and, to finish, an utterly divine pyramid of pear parfait with
hazelnut foam. All for a rather reasonable EUR 34.50. As one would expect
this was, of course, complemented by an extensive wine list as well as
several varieties of local craft beers and a range of gins.
If you’re looking for a contemporary, well-appointed inner city base,
Rotterdam Marriott Hotel ticks all the right boxes and much more. Efficient
and comfortable, and offering just the right mix of sophistication and service,
make this particular property the perfect counterbalance to a boutique hotel
for a two-centre stay within Holland’s charismatic port city.
www.marriottrotterdam.com

SEE
MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN
If you are going to visit just one gallery in Rotterdam,
Boijmans and Kunsthal are the top two contenders. One
of the Netherlands’ oldest museums, its collection is built
on the legacy of jurist Frans Jacob Otto Boijmans, who
left his personal collection to the city in 1849. In 1958 the
name of benefactor Daniël George van Beuningen was
added to the museum after the acquisition of his
collection, which now includes a swathe of Dutch and
European masterpieces spanning the Middle Ages to the
present day, including works by Rembrandt, Van Gogh,
Bosch, Bruegel, Dali and Munch. Intimate galleries and
large salons unusually allow a large proportion of
Boijmans’ art to be viewed in natural light.
www.boijmans.nl
KUNSTHAL
More cultural centre than museum and heralded by
many as an icon of modern architecture, the Kunsthal
was unveiled to the public in 1992 and has set tongues
wagging ever since. Designed by Rotterdam’s most
famous architect, Rem Koolhaas, with project architect
Fuminori Hoshino from Rotterdam company OMA, the
building won huge international acclaim for its
innovative design and use of materials. It appears at first
glance to be a fairly unimpressive large flat box, but upon
closer inspection every façade is different. Inside, seven
exhibition spaces host continually changing temporary
displays of new wave design, fashion, photography,
digital art and modern masterpieces, with several
cutting-edge exhibitions often on display at the same
time. www.kunsthal.nl
MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN
SS ROTTERDAM
The former flagship of the Holland America Line, SS
Rotterdam is now permanently moored in its homeport
as a novel hotel, dining venue and floating party palace.
In its 1960s heyday, the 228-metre former ocean liner
was a familiar sight on the Atlantic as it powered
between Rotterdam and New York laden with
well-heeled passengers. These days you can imagine
yourself back in the romantic age of steam while sipping
a cocktail on the terrace and gazing out across the city,
lingering over lunch at The Lido or the Club Room, or
spending the night in one of the ship’s 254 hotel rooms.
You can also take a tour of the bow, bridge and engine
rooms. ‘La Grande Dame’ as SS Rotterdam is
60 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017
KUNSTHAL

SS ROTTERDAM

affectionately known, is located at the tip of the
Katendrecht peninsula.
www.ssrotterdam.com
SPIDO CRUISES
It would be a shame to visit such a historic port and not
see the sights from the water. The sleek fleet of Spido
vessels run a range of cruises most days of the year,
departing from the base of Erasmus Bridge. A 75-minute
harbour tour is enough to see Rotterdam's impressive
skyline with its imposing buildings, together with the
harbour’s shipyards and docks. Better still buy a hop-on
hop-off bus and Spido boat ticket to make best use of
both transport modes for a full day (www.spido.nl). For a
cruising experience with a culinary edge, take to the
Maas on “The Pancake Boat” whilst munching on all the
pancakes you can eat laden with a variety of scrummy
toppings. www.pannenkoekenboot.nl
CUBE HOUSES
Along with Erasmus Bridge and the city’s skyline, the
Cube Houses are one of the most recognised symbols of
Rotterdam. Designed by Dutch architect Piet Blom, at first
glance they appear to be completely unliveable, but step
inside the fully furnished Kijk-Kubus (Show-Cube), and
you will soon discover how it’s possible to reside in such
an unusual dwelling. Each house represents a tree with
the whole development designed to symbolise a
woodland. In Dutch the area is called ‘Blaakse Bos’ which
literally translates to Blaakse Wood. The Cube Houses
border the Laurenskwartier district and waterfront area,
within easy walking distance of the Markthal, Oude
Haven and the Laurenskerk. www.en.rotterdam.info
INTERNATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM
CRUISING SPIDO
LAURENSKERK
Built on the banks of the River Rotte between 1449 and
1525, Grote of Sint-Laurenskerk (or Church of St.
Lawrence) is literally the only building to have survived
from the medieval city centre and is a potent emblem of
the community’s ability to endure. Heavily damaged
during the bombing of Rotterdam in WWII, the building
underwent extensive repair work and now stands in
marked contrast to the modern architecture that
surrounds it. Along with regular services and an
interesting permanent exhibition, the church hosts
concerts, tours, exhibitions and receptions, and you can
climb the 65-metre tower on Wednesdays and Saturdays
from April through October.
www.laurenskerkrotterdam.nl
62 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017
CUBE HOUSES

AMARONE
TASTE
AMARONE
For superb contemporary French cuisine that tastes as good as it looks, Amarone is hard to beat. Situated on one of
Rotterdam’s most stylish streets, the restaurant had been open just 15 months when it was awarded a Michelin star. This
reflected the commitment of owner-chef Gert Blom and his tight-knit team, to the creation of innovative dishes using
quality ingredients prepared to a consistently high standard. A decade later sees Amarone continue to glean regular
widespread praise. Elegant, sophisticated and decorated in a palette of neutral colours, the restaurant houses a walk-in
wine room of more than 500 different vintages. Highly recommended is the truffle risotto, a creamy concoction of simple
goodness that will have you yearning for more. The three-course lunch menu is good value at EUR 37.50.
www.restaurantamarone.nl
PARKHEUVEL
Considered one of the best restaurants in the Netherlands, Parkheuvel is known for its two Michelin stars and beautiful
setting at the front of Het Park, near Euromast, with gorgeous views over the Nieuwe Maas and Rotterdam Harbour. The
restaurant is housed in a modern pavilion, built in 1988, with an art deco interior that boasts river views from every table.
64 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

PARKHEUVEL
There is also an outdoor terrace, naturally with views, which is the place to dine during the warmer months. Chef Erik van
Loo, who runs the restaurant with his wife Anja, is famous for his innovative take on classic mostly French-based dishes.
Signatures include chicken ravioli with langoustines and oysters with salsify, potato rosti and Perle Imperial caviar.
www.parkheuvel.nl
FG
If you’re a fan of the Heston Blumenthal school of cooking then FG will be right up your culinary street. Head chef Francois
Geurds was formerly a sous chef at The Fat Duck, Blumenthal’s temple to molecular cuisine. Guerds’ flagship restaurant FG,
has earned two Michelin stars, whilst its sibling, FG Food Labs, has one star. A visit to a Geurds establishment is a veritable fine
dining adventure, with dishes prepared using liquid nitrogen, presented in an unusual fashion and featuring the marriage of
ingredients you never thought you’d see on the same plate. There’s a ‘fragrance table’ in the kitchen, and guests in the private
dining room sit under an inverted garden of plants hanging from the ceiling. Set menus range from a EUR 45 three-course
lunch to a EUR 185 eight-course dégustation experience. www.fgrestaurant.nl/en

FG
NY BASEMENT
With a fabulous long cocktail bar and décor inspired by pre-war Manhattan, NY Basement is a novel recent addition to
Rotterdam’s restaurant scene that looks like it should feature in The Great Gatsby. Downstairs from the main restaurant at the
historic Hotel New York at the end of Wilhelmina Pier, NY Basement features a buzzing open kitchen, cosy banquette seating
and salmon-hued walls adorned with black and white photos of musical greats. Live jazz features regularly so it’s wise to
check with the hotel if you want to catch an act. From the modern European menu we recommend the juicy grilled sirloin and
terrifically tart lemon pie, but don’t leave without ordering at least one cocktail: TCT’s pick is the strong but fruity Angels &
Tongues made with Dutch spirits, vermouth, apple thyme cordial and grapefruit bitters. Did we mention that it’s strong?
www.nybasement.nl
JOELIA
With an airy feel and lustrous contemporary décor, Joelia is the gastronomic equivalent to Rotterdam’s cutting-edge office
towers. Based on the Coolsingel side of the Hilton hotel, with views over the city centre, it is a perfect spot to unwind at the end
of a long day working or sight-seeing over a selection of dishes by renowned chef Mario Ridder, washed down with an

JOELIA
POFFERTJES
excellent glass of wine or two. The menu at the Michelin-starred eatery is eclectic and intriguing, featuring French themed fare
with a twist, divided into sections entitled ‘culinary trip’, ‘Mario’s favorites’ and ‘all the way’. To give you a taste, the hedonistic
‘all the way’ features crab and caviar, lobster, wagyu beef and vanilla soufflé with blood orange. Diners can also indulge in a six
or eight-course ‘culinary trip’ menu. www.joelia.eu
POFFERTJESSALON SETH
It might be a mouthful to pronounce for those of us who don’t speak Dutch, but all you really need to know is that
Poffertjessalon Seth makes delicious, traditional little Dutch pancakes. Made according to the secret Seth family recipe, the
pancakes are typically presented as a simple dish with powdered sugar and butter, though you can opt for added extras such
as raisins, fruit, whipped cream or liquor. The authentic décor adds to the experience – think wooden benches, bright Brabant
curtains, Tiffany lamps and Anton Pieck paintings. Located opposite Markthal on Hoogstraat, this is the ideal place to pit stop
for some tasty nosh after some serious shopping. It’s worth knowing that you can use a Rotterdam Welcome Card for a 50%
discount on Poffertjessalon Seth’s pancakes. www.poffertjessalonseth.nl
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 67

SIP
DE WITTE AAP
Witte de Withkwartier is the vibrant heart of the
Rotterdam art scene and is renowned for some of
the most dynamic nightlife in the city. At its heart,
for many years, has been the famous White
Monkey, one of the most popular pubs in
Rotterdam. This fairly cosy bar on Witte de
Withstraat is usually filled to the rafters with locals,
especially during summer, and a bohemian crowd
is regularly seen spilling out onto its terrace. De
Witte Aap is known for its friendly service and a
great soundtrack – there’s live music on
Wednesdays and DJs on Saturdays – and is a
reliable place to start a night on the tiles with a
Dutch beer or two. www.facebook.com/dewitteaap
BALLROOM
Still on Witte de Withstraat, one of the newest
editions to the street is the trendy Ballroom gin and
tonic bar. Stocking more than 160 types of gin –
which the establishment claims is the biggest
collection in Europe – there’s something for every
lover of the famous tipple, ranging in flavour from
fresh to sweet, herby to spicy and floral to citrus.
There’s also a reasonable selection of nibbles to
accompany your sipping on the terrace, at the bar
or in the secret garden. Try the Bitterballen – a
traditional Dutch meat-based snack – or the
Ballplate selection. A resident DJ lays down funk,
soul and groove on Friday and Saturday nights.
www.ballroomrotterdam.nl
DE WITTE APP
THE STIRR
Labelled by The Lonely Planet as arguably the best
cocktail house in the country, this little gem of a
speakeasy cum living room cum cocktail bar is well
worth the trouble of searching out. Located off
Eendrachtweg, parallel to Westersingel, The Stirr was
the brainchild of four local bartenders who realised
their dream with the proceeds of a crowd-funding
campaign. The ambience is hipster chic – think
exposed brick walls, moustaches and a laid-back
attitude – while the cocktails are deliciously bespoke.
The owners create their own recipes, not just for the
cocktails but also for the base syrups used in the
cocktails, and they will happily mix you a special drink
based on your mood and tastes. www.thestirr.nl
THE STIRR
68 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

BALLROOM
THE VIP ROOM

THE SUICIDE CLUB
Rooftop bars are having a moment – when aren’t
they, frankly? – and The Suicide Club is Rotterdam’s
nod to this trend. Located right in the centre,
opposite Rotterdam Centraal, this is the perfect
setting to appreciate the city’s funky architecture
while sipping a chilled cocktail on a balmy summer
night. The list includes a good mix of originals and
re-invented classics – we dare you to try ‘Sky Is The
Limit’, a heady mix of vodka, sambuca, dark
chocolate and blood orange, or the fabulously
named ‘Unicorn & Lions’, a gin-based cocktail with
velvet falernum (a spiced sweet citrus syrup),
aperol and rhubarb. There are also sharing nibbles
that are a definite cut above bar food, including
oysters served with watermelon salsa, and
dumplings with beef and escargot.
www.thesuicideclub.nl
THE VIP ROOM
With the slogan of a ‘no frills club in a no nonsense
city’ The VIP Room on Stadhuisplein, just off the
Coolsingel, is an old-school style club lounge that
attracts a fair number of Rotterdam’s party people
on any given night. Washed with violet lighting, the
décor of the multi-levelled main floor area nods to
the Orient with Buddha statues and lantern style
lighting, and there’s usually a solid line-up of Dutch
and special guest DJs keeping the place pumping
and energy levels up. There’s also a terrace that
pays homage to Nikki Beach style al fresco clubs.
Weekends are naturally the busiest, but The VIP
Room is also very popular for its chic Monday night
gatherings. www.theviproom.eu
THE SUICIDE CLUB
BAR TENDER
The first shooter bar in Rotterdam, Bar Tender offers
a dizzying array of 200 different shots to help you
get your night started with a bang. It’s a cosy little
place, with a luminous bar and a cheery interior
and colourful paintings adorning the walls. During
the week Bar Tender is fairly laid back, but on the
weekends the shot kings love to put on a show with
fiery extravaganzas that literally light up the bar.
Get your lips around a Bazooka or a Harry Potter –
or TCT’s favourite for its dramatic appeal, the classic
Flaming Lamborghini. Bar Tender is on the
Coolsingel, near the junction with Aert van
Nesstraat. www.bar-tender.nl
BAR TENDER
86 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

MAYFAIR
CHIC
M E E T S
EAST
LONDON
STYLE
London’s newest and most glamourous hotel lies within the Devonshire Club – London’s refreshingly
distinctive Private Members’ Club.
Book directly with us and mention The Cultured Traveller to receive our lowest available rate. T&Cs apply.
Contact stay@devonshire.club or 0203 750 4545 for enquiries and bookings.
4+5 DEVONSHIRE SQUARE, LONDON, EC2M 4YD INFO@DEVONSHIRE.CLUB +44 (0)20 3750 4545

MARKTHAL
DEPOT ROTTERDAM
SPEND
MARKTHAL
One of Rotterdam’s newest architectural landmarks, Markthal is hard to miss, and equally hard to escape from once you find
yourself mesmerized by the bounty of gourmet treasures inside. Designed by MVRDV and opened in 2014, the innovative
covered market hall houses an eclectic collection of stalls, selling everything from fresh and packaged foodstuffs, gourmet
cheeses and meats, to handcrafted truffles and chocolates. It’s a perfect place to pick up gifts. If you’re interested in the foodie
scene, it is also worth checking out the much smaller but very well regarded Fenix Food Factory, an artisanal food market in a
former warehouse on the Katendrecht peninsula. www.markthal.nl/en
DE BIJENKORF
As the Netherlands’ leading luxury department store brand, De Bijenkorf has been catering to well-heeled Dutch shoppers
since 1870. Founded as a humble haberdashery, De Bijenkorf has for many years operated flagship stores in Rotterdam,
Amsterdam and The Hague. The Rotterdam store, in front of the Beurs-World Trade Center on the Coolsingel, is the place to go
in the port city for designer items by the likes of Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Hermès. It’s worth noting that shoppers who spend
EUR 50 or more can get a tax refund. www.debijenkorf.nl
VAN OLDENBARNEVELTSTRAAT
Not far from De Bijenkorf in the Cool district, Van Oldenbarneveltstraat is a street where French designer chic meets Dutch style
to create an intriguing shopping environment of cutting edge fashion and texture-filled interior boutiques, smart slow food
eateries and upmarket beauty stores where you can easily lose yourself for a happy couple of hours. Combine a trip to Van
Oldenbarneveltstraat with a wander down the nearby Westersingel sculpture route for a dose of retail therapy and a helping of
culture in the same afternoon. www.oldenbarneveltstraatrotterdam.nl
72 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

MARGREETH OLSTHOORN
MEENT
Jutting off from the main thoroughfare of Coolsingel, Meent is one of the city’s most upmarket shopping streets, featuring small
specialty boutiques and gift stores alongside upmarket bars and relaxed cafés. Worth looking into are SuperTrash (85a) for its
super-girlie vibe, Zola and Zola Male (60 and 73a) for hip casualwear and the Shoeclub (98) for a wide variety of funky
footwear and the latest leather bags. If you need a pick-me-up during your retail therapy session, the expansive corner wine
bar 1NUL8 on the corner of Meent serves great coffee and an extensive list of tipples including a rather good G&T!
(www.facebook.com/1nul8). www.cityguiderotterdam.com
MARGREETH OLSTHOORN
A little avant-garde and a touch punk, this is the kind of store, which you will be telling friends about for months after you visit.
Margreeth Olsthoorn is well known among Rotterdam’s fashionistas for its cutting edge contemporary designer collections, by
labels such as Maison Martin Margiela, Henrik Vibskov, Masnada, Leon Louis, Acne and Avelon, as well as upcoming labels
such as local jewellery brand The Boyscouts. Slick, stylish and very urban, the store is on Schiedamsedijk, near the Maritime
Museum. www.shop.margreetholsthoorn.nl
DEPOT ROTTERDAM
If you have been inspired by the style of the city and want to take a little piece of it home with you, then Depot Rotterdam is
the place to go. A design consultancy, studio and shop for everything related to the home, leaning towards functional but fun
and contemporary style, Depot Rotterdam showcases pieces by well-known interior designers as well as up-and-coming
names. It’s also a great place for gifts. Depot Rotterdam is on the Pannekoekstraat, a short stroll from Markthal and the
Laurenskerk. www.depotrotterdam.nl

74 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

Presidential Suite
The Saxon, Johannesburg

As South Africa’s second largest city and capital of Gauteng province,
Johannesburg began as a 19 th century gold-mining settlement and
from such humble beginnings is now described as Africa's economic
powerhouse, and the centre of a large-scale gold and diamond trade.
Although Jozi (as some affectionately refer to the city) is not South Africa’s capital,
it has a remarkable history and a vibrant energy that one would expect from one
of the world’s most renowned metropolitan hubs. Quite simply, Jo’burg feels and
acts like a capital city and hence is developing at an incredibly rapid rate.
Located at 6,000 feet above sea level, striking views, from various vantage
points, are in abundance all around Jo’burg. This is a city with a lot to offer
and one that is trying very hard to banish its former reputation as a
dangerous place to visit. There are still a few areas of Jo’burg where you most
definitely shouldn’t wander at night, but after visiting the city twice I can
honestly say I didn’t once feel threatened and found everyone to be incredibly
friendly and helpful. Boasting a wealth of immersive experiences to interest
even the most seasoned traveller - from the sobering reminders of the
country’s past to the present day buzz of the continent’s fast-paced financial
centre - it’s not hard to see why Jo’burg was once home to Nelson Mandela
76 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

and Desmond Tutu as well as countless celebrities of today.
Saxon Hotel, Villa and Spa is nestled in Sandhurst, one of Jo’burg’s most elite
suburbs. My Saxon experience begins literally as soon as I land at OR Tambo
International Airport, where I’m greeted by the friendliest of hosts who deftly
whisks me through passport control and into a humming private hotel car ready
and waiting. Just 30-minutes later we are gliding through Jo’burg’s most
sought-after residential neighbourhood, home to some of the country's wealthiest
residents. Whilst you can’t see their homes behind the gated walls lining the quiet
tree-lined streets it’s not difficult to imagine the grandness that lies beyond.
Gliding up the impressive driveway of the Saxon for the first time you soon see
the enormity of what was once a massive private residence, set in 10 acres of
magnificent landscaped gardens. This is truly a private and tranquil city retreat
like no other. From the minute I set foot in the opulent entrance hall I am
surrounded by exquisite and fascinating South African artworks, a theme which
continues throughout the property and is passion of the Saxon’s owner, Douw
Steyn, one of South Africa’s leading captains of commerce. I am told that only 11
carefully selected local artists were commissioned to create all the works that
decorate the Saxon, and South Africa’s first democratically elected president,
Nelson Mandela, resided at the Saxon for six months whilst his home was under
construction. It is within the walls of the Saxon that Mandela edited his
autobiography, ‘Long Walk to Freedom’, and the suite he occupied during his
stay at the hotel is now known as the Nelson Mandela Platinum Suite.
The Saxon has three separate villas located within its peaceful grounds, not far
from the main building. It is possible to book an entire villa for exclusive use,
perfect for those VIPs demanding ultimate privacy. Access to the villas is via a

striking glass-enclosed skywalk, elevated high above the driveway from the
main hotel completely surrounded by trees everywhere, creating a sense of calm
tranquility and ensuring guests’ privacy is maintained.
My home at the Saxon for the next three nights is 200m 2 Presidential Suite 310
within villa 3, set well away from the main hotel. I’m informed that seeing other
guests is something of a rarity when staying at the Saxon.
Entering via a pair of imposing double doors, Presidential Suite 310 is an
opulent, sprawling and tranquil space. Once through the entrance hall I was
greeted by an impressive open plan lounge and dining area that was both
inviting and magnificent. Beautifully decorated in a contemporary African style
of warm mushroom and deep brown tones, complimented by natural textures
including stone cladding and rich timbers in various shades, light bounced of
every surface as the sun streamed in via vast floor-to-ceiling windows and huge
balcony doors. The seating area boasted a mix of oversized chairs upholstered in
inviting warm brown tones and occasional tables of varying sizes, making it the
perfect place to relax, reflect and unwind. Like the rest of the Saxon, my suite
was brimming with exquisite and unusual South African adorning every wall
and alcove, including carvings, sculptures, paintings and statues. Not to mention
hundred of books in which to lose oneself for a few hours. A discreet butler’s
kitchen was tucked behind one wall of the lounge.
The luxe décor in the master bedroom continued the contemporary South
African feel with more artworks and differing textures. Warmly decorated in rich
beige and browns, wooden shutters and black out curtains ensured I slept like a
baby in the sumptuous king-sized four poster which was attired in the world’s
finest bed linens and came complete with a pillow menu. More comfy chairs and

coffee tables littered the bedroom together with a writing desk and separate
workstation. Two separate terraces – one each off the lounge and the bedroom –
were perfect for a morning cup of Earl Grey. It was then, in the crisp morning
South African sunshine, as my personal butler was unpacking my luggage, that I
realised how peaceful and utterly secluded my private outside spaces were.
With a noticeable lack of doors in favour of airy open plan styling, the suite
flowed beautifully from room to room, effortlessly instilling in me a sense of
calm and freedom. One wall - the width of the four-poster bed - separated the
bedroom from the decadent bathroom. Dominated by large square his and hers
sinks, an enormous free-standing soaking tub and a large stone-clad walk-in
shower room, the spa-like bathroom was laden with an abundance of luxury
natural and eco-friendly Africology products, fragranced with pure essential oils.
A smart touch screen panel on the night stand meant that I could control pretty
much everything within the suite from my bed. In short everything was on hand
to ensure that my stay was both memorable and hassle free.
At the outset Douw Steyn set out to create South Africa’s best hotel, and during
the next few days the Saxon’s attentive team certainly did their utmost to
make my stay unforgettable. Relaxing and soaking up the warm South
African sunshine while listening to the resident saxophonist was interspersed
with visits to the Saxon’s two world-class restaurants, Qunu and Luke Del
Roberts X, the latter presided over by one of South Africa's most celebrated
chefs synonymous with innovative gastronomic creations. I also took
traditional afternoon tea in the Piano Lounge and sipped rare single malts in
Eighteen05, the first Johnnie Walker whisky bar on the African continent.
Opened in 2015 and designed by the rainbow nation’s most celebrated
interior designer, Stephen Falcke, Eighteen05 is a glamorous and intimate
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 79

ar where guests are immersed in the history of the iconic whisky brand.
After so much indulgence there was just a little time left on my last day to visit
the Saxon’s in-house holistic spa. A serene oasis of peace and tranquility, nestled
within the heart of the hotel to a backdrop of gently cascading water features,
influences of copper and Himalayan salts feature in the wide range of treatments
on offer to rejuvenate one’s mind and body and promote a sense of vitality,
energy and balance. My therapist was incredibly knowledgeable and expertly
tailored my divine massage and rejuvenating La Prairie facial to suit my needs.
It’s obvious why Nelson Mandela, after 27 years in prison, spent his first night of
freedom at the Saxon. Quite apart from the luxurious accommodations,
sprawling suites and lush manicured grounds, no request is off limits and
nothing is too much trouble for the Saxon’s dedicated team. As the hotel
disappears into the distance as we drove away after my stay, I left with nothing
but fond memories of a luxurious soothing haven secretly hidden away in the
heart of one of the world’s most happening cities.
Judith Manson stayed in a ZAR 9,500/night one-bedroom
presidential suite at the Saxon in March 2017
www.saxon.co.za
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 81

HOTEL GRANDE
BRETAGNE HOLDALL
It wouldn’t be an understatement to say I’ve
road-tested dozens of holdalls. My last Louis
Vuitton Keepall 55 lasted a decade before
one of the handles came off, the zip broke
and LV refused to repair it citing its age as a
problem. I thought that was the whole point
of spending a four-figure sum on something
to carry your stuff around in, so when my
beautifully worn-in Keepall couldn’t be
repaired I decided to not to replace it
like-for-like. My current carry-on is a smart
dark brown and leather-trimmed holdall
produced by famous Hotel Grande Bretagne
in Athens, Greece. I especially like the outside
pocket that provides quick access to my
passport. Inside there’s bags of space, and
being so reasonably priced I
don’t guard it like a newborn baby.
EUR 265 www.grandebretagnestore.com
iPod CLASSIC 160GB
Until the recent advent of the
iPhone 7 Plus 256GB (which retails
at GBP 919) the only iPod which
could hold all of my music was a
Classic 160GB model which Apple
no longer makes. Mine still works
and I bought a spare on eBay. I
don’t get on a flight without it.
Approx GBP 250 on
www.ebay.co.uk
BOSE QUIETCOMFORT 20
ACOUSTIC NOISE CANCELLING
HEADPHONES
A quality pair of headphones is essential
when you travel regularly. Your ears need
looking after! Until recently I used to travel
with two pairs, but these nifty little numbers
now take care of all my aural needs both
in-flight and on terra firma. They are
especially good if you want to sleep in-flight
and just want to cancel out the aircraft noise,
since they sit inside the ear and don’t
interfere with your sleeping position.
USD 249.95 www.bose.com
82 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

A TRAVEL EDITOR’S
IN-FLIGHT ESSENTIALS
When you travel as much as I do, getting on a plane becomes as routine as
hopping in a taxi, and one soon works out what’s needed on board to ensure a
comfortable journey and perky arrival. I’m often asked “doesn’t it get tiresome, all
that travelling?” I can honestly say that with the exception of the painfully early
morning departures, and transiting airports which take two buses a train ride plus
a couple of Guantanamo-style security checks just to change planes, flying, for me
at least, is generally a pleasurable experience, since I’m as comfortable aboard a jet
as I am in the back of a London cab. I put this down to a variety of things, the most
important being that when I’m sitting inside a metal tube hurtling through the sky
at 500mph+ I’m almost always headed to a different country, sometimes
(although less so these days) a place I’ve never visited before. Of course these are
the most exciting adventures – visiting a new destination still excites me almost
three decades after I boarded my first flight. But what really eases the air travel
experience is having one’s creature comforts around you in-flight. Let’s be honest,
no matter how much you gild the lily, an airplane cabin is a pretty soulless space.
With the possible exception of one or two airlines’ on-board lounges (Qatar
Airways’ A380 upper deck lounge is rather special), no matter where you sit on a plane there is little around of visual stimulation.
So it is essential to travel with what you need, especially when flying long-haul. There’s nothing worse than embarking on an
overnight intercontinental flight, eating sleeping and waking in the same clothes, and arriving in an exciting new destination
feeling like you need to be fumigated. So here are the in-flight essentials I never traverse an airport or board a plane without.
Short of a candle to scent the air around me, this little selection generally ensures that I arrive at my destination in the best
possible condition, suitably entertained, rested, rejuvenated and ready for my next adventure.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
MUJI ORGANIC COTTON
LONG SLEEVE T-SHIRT
I always pack a brand new Muji long
sleeve t-shirt in my carry-on before a
long-haul flight so I can change into it
just before landing. At just a tenner each I
can afford to keep a stock so I’ve always
got a new one handy.
GBP 9.95 in-store only www.muji.com

LA ROCHE-POSAY WATER SPRAY 50ML
Your face goes from being a grape to a raisin in
about an hour on a plane so you need to keep it
hydrated. The low maintenance way is a hydrating
facial spray that delivers micro-droplets of pure
natural spring water directly to your skin. Evian’s is
good but La Roche-Posay’s is better because it has
softening and anti-oxidant properties. If you have
more time and money, apply a thin coat of
Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque (USD 43)
immediately after take-off. Use your water spray
regularly in-flight. Wash your face 30 minutes
before landing and apply Clinique Moisture Surge
Face Spray Thirsty Skin Relief (USD 24.50) just
before touch down. Your face will look fabulous
even if the rest of you is knackered!
GBP 4 www.boots.com
SUPERDRY ORANGE LABEL
SLIM LITE SWEATPANTS
You can’t sleep in your jeans on a long-haul
flight and most of the PJs handed out by
even the premium carriers are made of
low-grade fabrics nowadays. These Superdry
slim fit sweatpants are cuffed for cosiness
and have an adjustable drawstring waist and
ribbed sides making them super comfy to
lounge around an aircraft or nap in.
EUR 69.95 www.superdry.com
CARMEX LIP BALM TUBE 10g
Strangely the skin on your lips tends to be
the first and fastest to dry out in-flight, so
be sure to have at least one tried and
tested moisturising lip balm in your
carry-on. I swear by Carmex medicated lip
balm. Buy it in a little round jar or a
squeezable tube (my personal
preference). I find the sticks less effective.
GBP 2.69 www.boots.com
BODY SHOP
ELDERFLOWER
EYE GEL 15ml
This is the only eye treatment I have ever used. It
provides an instant uplift to wake and soothe the
eye area in-flight, and reduces the appearance of
puffiness after sleeping, leaving the delicate skin
around the eyes feeling soft and refreshed. I use
this day and night at home and when travelling.
GBP 8 www.thebodyshop.com
3M 1100 FOAM EARPLUGS
I find it amazing that some airlines no
longer have earplugs onboard, not even
for passengers in premium cabins, so
rather than chance it I always carry a
pair with me. Nothing fancy. These by
3M are made from soft hypoallergenic
PU foam material to provide maximum
comfort and low pressure inside the ear.
Whist their shape is tapered to fit the
ear canal comfortably, I use them back
to front for a tighter fit!
GBP 5 for 20 pairs www.amazon.co.uk
86 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

SMYTHSON MARA ZIP CURRENCY CASE
More of a travel wallet than anything else, whilst this is not an in-flight
wellbeing essential, it keeps me organised and I’ve not been apart from it
since it was gifted to me almost seven years ago. When travelling I’d be
lost without it. Mine is brown printed calf leather with four colour-coded
zip compartments for storing different currencies, SIM cards etc.
GBP 195 www.smythson.com
AU LIT TRAVEL PILLOW & EYE MASK
If you’re boarding a plane for anything more
than a 10-hour flight you’re going to need to get
some kip, but most pillows provided onboard are
just dreadful. A 100% Egyptian cotton satin
travel pillow filled with white goose down is a
portable luxury wherever you rest your head.
Coupled with a 100% silk eye mask and you’re
pretty much equipped to sleep anywhere.
USD 160.00 www.aulitfinelinens.com
VITAMIN C 1000mg
Flying dramatically increases your chances of getting sick. Princess Diana
always used to load-up on vitamin C before she boarded a plane. Taking
a leaf out of her book, just before every flight I pop one echinacea tablet
and chew a couple of 1,000mg vitamin C tabs. The
immunity-boosting powers of these supplements
may be debated but they seem to work for me, and
the body excretes whatever vitamin C it doesn’t
use so it’s impossible to overdose.
GBP 12.29 for 180 tablets www.boots.com
PAUL SMITH
LEATHER LAPTOP BAG
When it comes to carrying my computer –
the tool upon which I write articles and
check every word in TCT – I think my trusty
13” MacBook Pro deserves to be a little
pampered. After all, for the past five years
it has travelled everywhere I have. Iconic
British brand Paul Smith produces some
gorgeous leather goods, including this
smart bag made from pebble embossed
leather. The padded laptop compartment is
purpose designed and the shoulder strap
means I can sling it over my shoulder
when I’m rushing through an airport.
GBP 525 www.paulsmith.com

No Shoes Required
AT
QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA
86 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

On the edge of Arabia’s famed Empty Quarter, an hour and a half outside
of Abu Dhabi, solitude and tranquility set the world to rights at Qasr Al
Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara. ASHLEE STARRATT navigates the dunes
with the sand between her toes, exploring this wanderer’s paradise oasis

88 The Cultured Traveller Apr-May 2017

G
olden hour, somewhere on a dusty
stretch of two-lane blacktop 60-minutes
outside Abu Dhabi. I’ve been staring out
the window of the Lincoln Navigator
that’s been my carriage since I was picked-up in DXB.
Dubai, jewel of the Middle East, and Abu Dhabi, her sister
gemstone, glistening metropolises are now blurred
through tinted glass. As the skyscrapers slip away, their
urban trappings give way to sand as the road into sunset
sings its own song of gold. We’ve still got half an hour to
go. It’s here, on the edge of the Rub’Al Khali – the largest
uninterrupted sand desert in the world – where the cord
that keeps us tethered to our sense of the known frays
ever so slightly. Call it what you will, but Rub’Al Khali –
better known as the Empty Quarter, covering 650,000
kms across the U.A.E., Saudi Arabia and Oman – is a place
to lose yourself. But, mark my words, it’s not a place to
get lost in.
Where the blacktop ends stands the last gate before the
great nothingness – a simple, metal bar between the road
our comfort zone walks, and the unending dunes,
monoliths of the Liwa Desert at the perimeter of that
beautiful abyss. This protected area is part of a 9,000 sq
km nature reserve where, at the end of a 20-minute drive
upwards along an undulating track through 40-metre
dunes, sits Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara.
A more isolated retreat you’ll be hard-pressed to find in the
U.A.E.; its rugged beauty transportive; matched only by its
dedication to Bedouin authenticity. With 206 rooms,
including ten Royal Pavilion pool villas, spread out in tiny
‘villages’ blossoming outward from the cluster of its rustic
main hub, guests can indulge their senses across
breathtaking vistas of desert which, while stark, are no less
fulfilling in their exquisite desolation.
This is a mystic place, the Liwa Desert. Here footprints last
as long as the wind allows.. mere vagaries to the sand;
where Bedouin fires once bounced their survivalist light to
cast shadows among the dunes; where the jinn are said to
frolick among the folklore of a people; and where the wind
that blows at dawn across the sea of sand is, as some say,
the soul’s breath.
As dark approaches, our headlights bob along the uneven
desert track like a drunken will-o’-the-wisp. A stone gate
approaches and, then, we hit the rough cobblestone of the

Qasr Al Sarab courtyard. The motif of the resort, in colour
palette and architecture, is one of lush stone, marble and
wood, with dappled palms and trickling water features to
enhance the ambiance of an oasis, alongside a décor of
gilded Arabesque. Drenched in natural light, all windows
are south-facing, to worship the sun against the backdrop
of the dunes’ sandy mountain moonscape.
Sound changes as though in an insulated recording booth
when you’re this far out into the desert. Whilst silence
reigns every movement seems to create an echo. The quiet
can be unnerving at first but becomes blissfully
contemplative later. Upon check-in we’re offered fresh
dates and a lush yoghurt-based drink, along with cool
towels to remove the dust of the road from our faces. This
isn’t a place where one would recommend driving with the
windows open.
Up a flagstone staircase and under a cool stone archway,
the wooden door to our Deluxe Terrace Room gives way to
a lush, spacious interior bedecked with russet, shades of
gold and natural materials that are Anantara’s hallmark.
Aside from the usual king-sized bed, walk-in rain-shower
and family-sized Jacuzzi, we’re taken with the bespoke
‘soap bar’ menu, featuring customized blends of aromatic
essential oils and essences, and the 45 m 2 outdoor terrace
with plump banquette seating, oversized loungers and al
fresco dining table. Protected from the blazing sun by a
timber and thatched roof, the terrace is even larger than
the room’s interior and the perfect spot for a pre-dinner
gathering with friends. The view from the terrace, across
the tree-dappled grounds and sapphire pool, outward
towards the barren beauty of the desert, is reverent. It’s
here I slip off my shoes and let my feet connect with the
earth for the next 48 hours.
After quickly freshening up, a club car whisks us to
Ghadeer - the resort’s poolside Mediterranean restaurant
and shisha lounge - for a late dinner. The darkness hangs
like a curtain, our table on the edge of the desert. The drop
in temperature is marked, but the service is top-par – the
food comforting and satisfying. The vegetable and goats’
cheese tart is not to be missed. On the way back to our
room, the club car winding through the resort’s serpentine
trails, we spot a pair of reflective eyes frozen in the
darkness just outside the reach of our headlights. In a flash
they’re gone, a windy rustle left in its wake. Our driver tells
us it’s not uncommon for sand gazelles to make their way
into the resort to nibble on the foliage surrounding the
villas and suites. This is confirmed a few minutes later
when those eyes – accompanied by an arching pair of
horns and tuft of tail – reappear a few metres further down
the pathway. We slow to a halt and watch as nature makes
its presence known. The myth that there’s little life in the
desert appropriately dissolves.
The morning dawns in shades of ochre and rust and we’re
up with the sunrise to prepare for a camel trekking
excursion. After a sumptuous breakfast at Al Waha, Qasr Al
Sarab’s all-day dining outlet, we head to the main building
to meet our guide. Part Bedouin hunting lodge part history
lesson, the library lounge meeting point is a treasure trove
of curios from a bygone cultural era whose traditional hold
lives on. We hit the road in a 4x4, the pavement giving way
to sand just past the resort’s tennis courts. Where we’re
headed requires a small amount of off-roading to reach.
We pass a shaded camel paddock, where the distinctively
dark shaggy-haired Saudi Arabian dromedaries nurse their
young under the fronds of date palms.
Atop our faithful ships of the desert, placidly plodding their
way across the dusty plateau, our guide points out how the
footprints made by their hooves expand like pillows with
every step, allowing them – as though wearing snowshoes
– to glide across the sand rather than sink. We also spot
small lizard tracks and short, scrub-brush clinging on
against all odds to take root in the desert clime. Our guide
gingerly plucks a succulent bud and offers it to taste. Salty,
it bursts in the mouth like samphire. Nourished by an
underground network of tributaries, it’s one way the desert
gives up her secrets.
Unsurprisingly sandy and camel scented, we spend the
remainder of the day supine by the pool. After a cooling dip
and a few beverages, (the fresh watermelon juice was the
ultimate rehydrator), we’re sufficiently lubricated to
continue our evening’s rituals with the sundowners hour at
Suhail – the resort’s rooftop lounge. For the more
adventurous (and fit!), climbing the huge adjacent sand
dune to worship the last of the sun’s rays is a rite of
passage; but we’re content to meditate over a few chilled
glasses of vino, while time stops in veneration of the view.
Dinner sees us kicking off our shoes by the sand and
campfires of Al Falaj’s carpeted Bedouin majlis. Here the
food is cooked over coals or roasted on spits – juices

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 91

dripping and skin crackling – whilst the smell of shisha is
thick and coils about our ankles. To our left a camel is
tethered to a post just outside the circle of light cast by the
flames. An Emirati stoops before the blaze, a hooded falcon
on his arm. Children leave their plates and rush over to see
the raptor. Projected on the sand dune in front of us is a
black and white film-reel; footage of the early days of Abu
Dhabi and its leader Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan – a
historical time capsule under a sky teeming and timeless
with constellations. The scene is utterly magical.
The following morning, our last at the resort, once again
sees us up with the dawn and headed into the
no-man’s-land of the Empty Quarter for some
dune-bashing that we won’t soon forget. You haven’t felt
the blood pumping through your veins until you’ve had two
wheels hanging, nose-first, over the lip of a 40-metre
dune. And this was the ‘soft’ excursion option! At one point
our driver defies gravity to hoist our car up the crest of a
wave of sand so high that, upon exiting the vehicle, the
world seems precariously perpendicular – all right angles
and rippled sand, with some blue sky thrown in for good
measure. Out here, where only the wind wanders, we are
interlopers in a desert tableau. As far as the eye can see is
sameness and solitude, though nothing is really the same,
for these dunes talk; they slide along the tongue of the
wind, hewn into new patterns and shapes that trick the eye
with their ever-changing story. What once was will no
longer be tomorrow. It’s the most breath-taking and
terrifying place. One my mind still gnaws over obsessively.
After an hour and a half we’re back in the arms of the
resort. No stay at an Anantara property would be complete
without a diversion to their signature spa. A lush massage
is enough to set the world – and your lumbar region – to
rights after the bumps and jolts of a morning spent out on
the dunes.
As we check out and hit the road back to Dubai, the soles
of my feet still burning from the sand’s lashing, there’s a
sense of ennui that overtakes us, and the mood in the car
changes. Introspection, if you will, and a longing for what
we’ve just left behind. As Antoine de Saint-Exupéry once
wrote, “What makes the desert beautiful,” said the Little
Prince, “is that somewhere it hides a well…”. At that
moment Qasr Al Sarab was just ours.
www.qasralsarab.anantara.com

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 93

Until visiting Colombia for the first time
three years ago I’m embarrassed to admit
that I’d never set foot in Latin America.
Four visits later and I’m somewhat
addicted to the only Spanish-speaking
American country that is embraced by the
Pacific and Atlantic oceans. In between is
a nation of rich flora and fauna unlike
anywhere else – including the Amazon
rainforest and Andes Mountains –
together with modern cities, vast
farmlands, ancient civilizations and
authentic colonial charm.
In recent years Colombia has undergone
a remarkable transformation – turning
the tide on a long running and bloody
terrorist insurgency – and made huge
strides in restoring security and stability
to the nation. Today, the country's
boundless energy and genuine spirit fill
every corner of the land, and music,
dance, food, art, fashion and style
saturate its conurbations. Nowhere is this
more evident than the historic 16 th
century Caribbean walled city of
Cartagena de Indias, a fairytale
destination of romance, legends and
superbly preserved beauty and
remarkable secrets contained within
centuries-old colonial stone walls.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

SPOTLIGHT
ON
CARTAGENA
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96 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

On the northern coast of Colombia,
Cartagena’s historical and political
heritage is undeniable. Founded in 1533
by Spanish commander Pedro de Heredia, the
city soon established itself as the leading trade
and governmental seat of the New World
Conquistadors. Gold tombs and Indian reserves
were immediately pillaged by the invaders, and
the city soon became a huge bank vault for the
precious jewels, silver and bullion that the
Spanish were ripping from the hearts of
Colombia and neighbouring Peru and shipping
back to Europe. Seven miles of fortified walls –
the largest in Latin America – were built to
defend against the many pirates, English
privateers and host of
other nefarious characters
who frequently tried to
ransack the plundered
wealth stored within the
imposing fort. Largely
governed by the Spanish,
they have all left their
fingerprints firmly in the
aesthetics of Cartagena’s
architecture.
The stunning city was
granted World Heritage
Site status by UNESCO in
1984 and remains one of
the most authentic and
well-maintained
examples of Spanish period colonial
architecture in the world. The French, Dutch
and British also invaded and ruled for brief
periods of time, and Cartagena became one of
only two slave trading ports in the Americas –
the other being in Mexico. Such a mixture of
influencing cultures, through incredibly
tumultuous times, has imbued Cartagena with
a unique and special identity; part African, a
dash of pirate, a slice of Europe, a significant
Caribbean flavour, a smidgen of Native Indian
but one hundred per cent Colombian,
encompassing all the colour, passion and
vibrancy that runs through the veins of this
extraordinarily diverse country.

A maze of cobbled alleys, ornate
bougainvillea-covered balconies, colourful
400-year-old houses, crumbling mansions and
massive churches that cast their shadows across
plazas, music, aromas and pulsating rhythms
greet visitors at every corner of Cartagena.
Horses and carts clatter through the streets and
flash mobs dance in pretty squares. Whilst the
whole of Colombia is designed to be explored at
ground level, once visited, the nation’s
undisputed Caribbean queen saturates with her
architectural gems and embraces with her
alluring charms to such an extent that it’s truly
hard for one to leave.
The best way to explore the captivating walled
city is to basically throw away the guidebook,
forget all normal sightseeing routines and simply
walk out the front door of your lodgings and stroll
through the old town by day and night. Don’t
even take a map – you will find where you’re
going eventually, in good old Caribbean time.
A three or four-night stay – ideally over a
weekend – is plenty of time to enjoy first hand
the jewel in Colombia’s crown. Book
accommodation within the walled city but don’t
be afraid to explore beyond, because the outer
town – teeming with traffic and populated by the
working classes – is a charmingly chaotic
experience that can leave you delightfully dazed
and confused in minutes but somehow addicted
to the madness of it all.
This was my second visit to Cartagena. My first
was jammed diary-like with places I was advised
I simply had to see and things I couldn’t miss. Big
mistake. On that occasion I left Cartagena with
little feel for the city’s utter uniqueness. On this
visit however – arriving with no real plans apart
from a hotel booking – I soaked up as much as
possible of the sensual atmosphere and left
wanting more and already planning my return.
Although I’m very sure there are many more to
be discovered, here are a handful of memorable
places I came across whilst ambling within
Cartagena’s treasure-filled pastel-coloured
ancient walls.

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 99

www.sophiahotel.com.co
In an elegant republican building, surrounded by the historical walled city,
you’ll discover a place where sensitivity and inspiration reside in every corner.
Offering a personalized service for our guests, an inspiring and peaceful place
reawakens and wraps you in its subtle magic.
In each of its 15 rooms, the city’s magic is witnessed in a timeless and seamless
experience that combines historical and current designs in every detail.
+ 57 (5) 6517007
ventassophia@oxohotel.com
Calle 32 No. 4 - 45 Plaza de la Aduana
Cartagena - Colombia

SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA
Sofitel Legend Santa Clara
A hospitality landmark in the heart of the old city, and most
probably the most famous hotel in Colombia, Bill Gates,
Shakira, Mel Gibson, Francis Ford Coppola, Mick Jagger,
Plácido Domingo and Sting have all stayed at Santa Clara,
Cartagena’s classic hotel of choice for discerning clients
for decades. Formerly a monastery and a convent, the
property’s architectural 17 th century heritage has been
carefully incorporated to impress yet not bedazzle guests.
Suites are spacious and provide a contemporary vintage
feel laden with modern-day amenities. The hotel’s butler
service is particularly efficient without being pompous. A
variety of gourmet dining options and a well-stocked
cellar, a deluxe spa and a large palm tree-fringed
swimming pool are just some of the facilities on offer to
make visitors feel pampered and well looked after.
Wandering around the hotel brings guests face-to-face
with intriguing artifacts that were recovered from pirate
attacks, original architectural features and priceless
religious artworks. Meanwhile walking a few steps in any
direction from Santa Clara opens up a veritable selection of
history, culture, gastronomy and colour, making this an
ideal place to base oneself for the numerous adventures
Cartagena has to offer.
www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena/en/
Café del Mar
For more than a decade this iconic venue has provided
visitors to Cartagena with uninterrupted views of the
striking crimson sunsets that are bestowed on the city and
transform the colours of its 16 th century buildings. Located
on the western most point of the ancient walls, a round of
sunset drinks at Café del Mar will undoubtedly kick start
your weekend in exciting and dramatic fashion. For those
who are a little peckish, a decent menu of pre-dinner bites
accompanies the long list of cocktails on offer. But don’t
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 101

AGUA DE MAR
GETSEMANÍ
linger here too long.. as the tropical night falls on the walled
city, move on to a different location and a more up tempo
beat that gets hotter and louder as the skies gets darker.
www.facebook.com/cafedelmarcartagena
Getsemaní
An easy 10-minute walk from the walled city is Getsemaní,
a hip and recently gentrified area of Cartagena. Originally
the abode of freed slaves, merchants, tradesmen and those
who fought (and won) against the Spanish to gain
independence in 1821, this charming neighbourhood retains
the small town appeal of somewhere that has not quite
been fully discovered. Mostly inhabited by bohemian artists,
writers, musicians and other creative types, Getsemaní’s
artistic underbelly is reflected in the graffiti art adorning
many of its walls, live music and dancing in the main
square, and the influx of adventurous tourists fuelling the
rise of boutique hotels and other über-cool establishments
in the area, one of the best of which is Demente. A
Cuban-inspired tapas bar in a quirky speakeasy-style
setting, Demente is presided over by talented and friendly
staff and frequented by everyone from locals to cultured
travellers. Settle into a rocking chair inside and lose yourself
in the eclectic music whilst sipping a potent cocktail, or
feast on scrumptious pizzas in the characterful garden out
back and make a night of it.
www.demente.com.co
Café Havana
Once you’ve been sufficiently fuelled and fed at Demente,
and gathered enough Dutch courage to warm up your
dancing feet with a spot of salsa with the locals in Plaza de
la Trinidad (immediately in front of Demente), perfect your
moves and soak in the sultry Latin beats then head to Café
Havana to let your hair down in this long established dance
and music venue. Stepping into this joyous sweatbox is

CAFÉ HAVANA
quite literally akin to being transported into the pages of a
Cuban song. Sensual, heady and packed, the only thing
that's missing is the smell of Cuban cigars. Agile dancers fill
the floor moving to infectious salsa played live by
world-class bands, whilst anxious newbies sip on some of
the best mojitos in town before joining in. Make new
friends, dance 'til you drop and embrace the irresistibly sexy
Colombian energy of it all.
www.cafehavanacartagena.com
Agua de Mar
Cartagena’s prosperity in the 1500s made it a destination
that attracted explorers, architectural pioneers and
tradesmen, but also infamous pirates and thieves who
wreaked havoc in the city for decades. Walls and castles
that still stand proud – built to protect the city’s borders
from the incessant raids – are design features of a by-gone
colonial era that define the city’s inimitable aesthetic to this
day. The buccaneer influence doesn’t stop there: rum – the
infamous liquor with pirate connotations made from raw
sugar cane – is Cartagena’s liquid poison of choice, and so
no visit to the city can be truly complete without sampling
some of the country’s home produced varieties. Agua de Mar
is a gourmet eatery with a dash of Colombian flair complete
with a boutique cocktail bar laden with an excellent
selection of rums as well as gins. Presided over by charming
owner and chef Mar Alonso, start a night here with a
handcrafted cocktail followed by a dinner of gastronomic
treats laden with different flavours and textures.
www.aguademar.com
Gabriel García Márquez Tour
Márquez was a long time resident of Cartagena and used the
city as inspiration for his novels, amongst them the classic “Of
Love and Other Demons.” His home is adjacent to the Santa
Clara and is still a photographic stop for visiting tourists. The
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104 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

multi-million selling author and Nobel prize winner -
affectionately known as “Gabo” in his natal land - can be
evoked through a personalised city tour which can be
downloaded to a smartphone, offering the opportunity to
conjure the sights, sounds, smells, period and romance of
Cartagena though captivating audio guides which are cleverly
intertwined with passaged from Gabo’s magical realism
literature. Stop off for a mouth-watering ‘arepa with cheese’
from a street vendor by the clock tower square, and get truly
lost in the fairy-tale that is Gabo and the exquisite city he
portrays in his unique writings. Unlike most city tours, this is
something that can be tailored to individuals or even
delivered to your hotel, and as such makes for a far more
potent adventure. Be sure to take in the celestial charm of the
San Pedro Claver Museum and Cloisters - homage to San
Pedro’s patronage of slaves - then walk a few paces to the
nearby market square where the poor souls were once sold.
www.tierramagna.com/en/cartagena-de-gabo/
María
María is a swanky, modern culinary haven created by
Bogotá-born but internationally trained chef, Alejandro
Ramírez, who prepares a fresh take on traditional food
served in a striking and fun interior, with colourful tiger
print murals on each of its four walls and a pineapple
chandelier in the centre. A firm believer in sustainable
eating, Ramírez works closely with native fishermen and
farmers, ensuring a daily supply of fresh local produce to
fuel his fusion menu of global cuisine, from
Asian-accented ceviche to a traditional take on British fish
and chips. The drinks list is equally inventive, featuring
cocktails such as Cactus Margarita and Mango Mojito to
name just a few. Maria is the perfect place to eat well and
people watch before heading to Alquimíco a few doors
down the road.
www.mariacartagena.com
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 107

Alquímico
The city’s Palenquera fruit sellers are as much a fixture of
Cartagena as the Catedral de San Pedro Claver. Their bright
dresses and smiling faces have become an integral part of
the very fabric of Cartagena. You only need look into the
bountiful bowls carried on their heads to see the incredible
range of exotic fruits readily available in Colombia. Lulo,
feijoa, piña, curuba, pitahaya and guayaba are just some of
the fruits Colombians used almost exclusively for juices for
years, meanwhile drinking their liquor straight. It took Jean
Trinh – who opened the city’s very
popular-but-now-closed El Laboratorio – to ask what
happens if you infuse rum with local fruits and spices. The
result is fabulous handcrafted cocktails, and thus
Cartagena's cocktail alchemist, Alquímico, was born,
housed in a beautiful two-storey 1910 mansion. Alquímico
has transformed drinking in Cartagena into a veritable art
form and elevated the city’s nightlife scene to new heights.
Moreover, on Friday and Saturday nights, the terrace atop
the roof of the city's newest nocturnal hotspot provides
space to dance and groove, so there’s no need to move on
to a traditional club.
www.alquimico.com
San Alberto Café
Clear your head after a night of cocktails and partying and
begin a new day with a fresh brew of coffee. But like rum,
Colombia’s variety of coffees needs an expert hand to guide
one through its delicate processing and flavourings, not to
mention the best way to enjoy it. Across the street from the
cathedral, San Alberto Café was borne of its namesake
plantation - Hacienda San Alberto - located in the heart of
the country's coffee triangle, located between 1,500 and
1,800 meters above sea level in the province of Quindío, a
municipality known as Buenavista in Colombia. San Alberto
has been producing high grade beans for more than forty
years and has won the most number of international
awards for it’s products, so aside from a unique tasting
experience, you will enjoy top quality coffee that will help
shake off the previous night’s excesses. At its Cartagena
café, expert baristas will talk you through the fascinating
steps of planting, harvesting, classifying and producing the
country’s top brew, and, if you have time, you can book a
coffee baptism ritual or sample some of San Antonio’s
premium offerings. Either way, whether you book a coffee
ritual or grab a hit of the country’s finest caffeine,
stopping-by San Alberto Café will undoubtedly charge you
up for the day ahead.
www.cafesanalberto.com/en/
108 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017
ALQUÍMICO

Gelateria Paradiso
Cartagena is hot and humid. Thankfully nights are cooler
and there are dozens of enticing ice cream shops within the
old city. You could spend a month in Cartagena and
probably drop anchor at a different gelateria every day.
Maria Nevett's glorious ice cream parlour, Gelataria
Paradiso, pairs French-inspired floral boudoir frills with
homemade ice cream thrills to create the ultimate place to
pit stop and chill. It’s the kind of place every kid dreams of
and is the most charming ice cream shop in the city.
Nevett's fruity selection is made with 100% natural
ingredients including a colourful kaleidoscope of Colombian
fruits including zapote, corozo, passion fruit, costeño cherry
and lulo as well as organic cacao-rich chocolate treats.
Each day sees six new flavours introduced alongside
classics such as banana, Stracciatella, salted caramel,
coconut water, ginger, and cookies and cream. Be warned -
if you sit down here you may never get up.
www.facebook.com/gelateriaparadiso
El Boliche Cebichería
Though ceviche originated in Peru, Colombia has put its
own distinctive spin on it, and there are few better places in
Cartagena than this tiny 16-seat locale to have a flavourful
seafood party in your mouth. Launched in 2011 by chef
Oscar Colmeranes - who perfected his craft at Martin
Berasategui's eponymous three Michelin-starred San
Sebastian restaurant - his ceviche skills are equally
matched by his insistence on using only freshly caught
produce fished by artisans. Colmeranes’ cebichería offers
diners exquisite attention to detail incorporating local fruit
and herb combinations, and leaves even the most seasoned
of ceviche palates satisfied yet not weighted down by strong
flavours. Focusing on quality over quantity, the grilled
seafood platter, crab empanadas and ceviche in a suero
costeño (similar to cream cheese) reduction are particularly
tasty highlights.
www.facebook.com/elbolichecebicheria
Movich Rooftop
Boasting 360-degree views of the old city, the harbour and
the skyscrapers of downtown Cartagena, there is nowhere
better to view the city’s historic sites, juxtaposed with the
Miami-esque skyline of its contemporary architecture,
than from the rooftop of the Movich. Design buffs will
marvel at the contrasting buildings on display, offset by
the sheer beauty of the sunset’s vivid colours. Meanwhile
delectable cocktails will get you in the mood for yet
another lively night on the town, and are served in the
perfect setting to gaze at the scenery from a bird’s eye
view vantage point.
www.movichhotels.com
MOVICH ROOFTOP
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112 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017
TEMPLE RUINS OF TA PROHM

TRAVELLER
LOWDOWN
DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL explores
the famed North Western
Cambodian city of Siem Reap,
host to some of Asia’s most
incredible temples
An enchanting and engaging saga of love and
deceit, of power struggles and battles and of
age-old conflict, is, according to local folklore,
the backdrop to the foundation of Siem Reap.
The name means ‘defeat of Siam’, and many
believe that it is connected to the ancient encounter
between the Khmer and Siam kingdoms. Modern historians
disagree, but everything about Siem Reap is as intriguing as
its backstory.
Siem Reap once was one of the busiest cities in South East
Asia. A staging point for the rich and famous in the early
ANGKOR TEMPLE NORTH GATE

ANGKOR NIGHT MARKET
ANGKOR WAT
CAMBODIAN FISH AMOK

sixties, it has now emerged as one of the world’s most
popular tourist destinations. With its magnificent temples,
museums and markets, Siem Reap is a must see place for
anyone with a passion for travel and exploration. It is truly a
land of mysticism, wonder and, above all else, architectural
brilliance.
We visited Siem Reap as part of a Vietnam and Cambodia
tour, organised by Travel Cambodia agency
(www.travelcambodia.com). The unassuming small but
efficient airport really does not prepare adventurers for what
lies ahead. A 30-minute drive took us to the base for our
2-day stay – The Central Boutique Angkor Hotel; cozy,
welcoming, tucked away and the perfect place to put our
feet up and get some much-needed rest
(www.centralboutiqueangkorhotel.com). At the time of our
stay, the hotel was bedecked in decorations to celebrate
Cambodian New Year,
known as Choul Chnam
Thmey in the Khmer
language. The Lunar
New Year, which falls in
mid April, marks the
end of the harvest
season, and the three
days of Maha
Sangkran, Virak
Vanabat and Veerak
Loeng Sak are
celebrated with great
pomp and vigor by all
Cambodians – even those living abroad.
Our first sightseeing stop was Angkor Night Market open
everyday from 5pm ‘til midnight (www.siemreap.net). With
over 200 vendors from across Cambodia, the Original Night
Market (as it’s commonly known) was established ten years
ago and is a good place to shop for souvenirs and trinkets,
with a palpable buzz in the air even late at night. Energetic
and lively, the market is always awash with travellers from
around the world looking for a piece of Cambodia to take
home. Island Bar with its enormous cone-shaped thatched
roof (www.facebook.com/IslandBarSiemReap), and CoCo
House Restaurant set in a traditional Khmer house are both
popular and bustling and ideal for a pit stop
(www.facebook.com/CocoHouseRestaurant).
The next day, after a swift breakfast, we head off to explore
the wondrous city. An Angkor-Pass currently costs USD 37
An enchanting and engaging
saga of love and deceit, of power
struggles and battles and of
age-old conflict, is, according to
local folklore, the backdrop to
the foundation of Siem Reap
for a day and allows access to all of the Angkor heritage
sites, except for Beng Mealeas and Phnom Kulen. You will
need cash to buy an Angkor-Pass and ensure your
shoulders and knees are covered. If you buy your pass in the
evening after 5pm, it will be valid for the next day (thus
avoiding the long morning queues) and that evening you
can watch the sunset at Angkor Park for free
(www.visit-angkor.org). USD 2 from each Angkor-Pass sold
is donated to the foundation for the Kantha Bopha
Children's Hospitals in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap
(www.beat-richner.ch).
The first site we visited was Angkor Thom, a walled and moated
royal city and the last capital of the Angkorian empire, situated
on the western banks of Siem Reap river. Five towering grand
entrances allow access to the 3km x 3km site, one for each
cardinal point, plus the Victory Gate that leads to the Royal
Palace area. We entered
via the South Gate
(coming from Siem
Reap town approx. 9km
to the south), which
was crowned with four
giant faces and framed
by elephants wading
amongst lotus flowers.
To say that the sight
was jaw dropping is
something of an
understatement.
Dating from the 12 th century, Bayon is the spectacular
central temple of the ancient city, known for its towering
pillars and multitude of stone faces, standing in the exact
center of Angkor representing the intersection of heaven
and earth. Bayon was the last temple to built at Angkor and
is the official state temple of King Jayavarman VII, a staunch
believer in Mahāyāna Buddhism, the largest major tradition
of Buddhism still existing today. Bayon is renowned for its
huge stone faces of the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, with
one facing outward and keeping watch at each compass
point. The curious smiling image is thought by many to be a
portrait of Jayavarman himself. It was incredible to think
that this spectacular structure was built around 1190 AD. At
one point I noticed locals arranging small stones and
pebbles one on top of the other since many still believe that
this will bring good fortune. After being snapped with a lady
attired in traditional Cambodian costume in exchange for a
Dollar, we headed to the next temple, along the 350m
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 115

TERRACE OF THE ELEPHANTS
ANGKOR THOM
Terrace of the Elephants to the south of the city, from which
Jayavarman VII surveyed his army. The same terrace was
used as an audience hall and place for public ceremonies in
the 12 th century. What’s incredible about Angkor’s temples is
the feeling of being
teleported back to a
different era. Such is
the intensity of the site
that one can almost
picture the setting in its
heyday. It was really
quite surreal.
As we entered the
towering three-stepped
pyramidal 10 th century
Hindu Phimeanakas temple, built in the Khleang style, we
noticed two pools adjacent to each other. Literally
translating to “Celestial Palace”, it is said that every night
the King bathed in one of the temple’s pools and lay with a
different naga, or serpent-headed woman. If the naga didn’t
Dating from the 12th century, Bayon
is the spectacular central temple of
the ancient city, known for its
towering pillars and multitude of
stone faces, standing in the exact
center of Angkor representing the
intersection of heaven and earth
appear for some reason it was feared that the end was nigh
for the King. Concurrently, if the King didn’t show-up one
night his people took this as a sign of a possible impending
calamity.
Located southwest of
the East Mebon and
east of Angkor Thom,
and built in the late
1100s, Ta Prohm is a
veritable live battle
between nature and
ancient architecture in
the heart of the
Cambodian jungle. A
UNESCO World Heritage
site for 25 years, unlike most of Angkor’s temples beautiful
Ta Prohm has largely been left to the clutches of the living
forest. Some of you will of course recognise Ta Prohm from
the 2001 movie Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, in which the
heroine (played by Angelina Jolie) fights off guardian statues
116 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

SOUTH GATE
TA PROHM TEMPLE
in order to save the world. Standing in Ta Prohm – amidst
the giant roots of trees attached to the buildings’ porous
sandstone – is quite unbelievable. Whilst the roots are firmly
fixed to the buildings themselves, extracting the last
remaining vestiges of
water from the stones
and ever-so-slowly
crushing the structures,
the trees are at the
same time holding up
Ta Prohm. I doubt I’ll
ever forget the smiling
stone face of Khmer
goddess Apsara, just
visible through the
huge tree roots.
After a long and thoroughly exhilarating morning a break
was much needed, so we stopped for a bite at a roadside
eatery to recharge our batteries. The one dish that must not
be missed during any visit to Cambodia is amok. The
Located southwest of the East
Mebon and east of Angkor Thom,
and built in the late 1100s, Ta
Prohm is a veritable live battle
between nature and ancient
architecture in the heart of the
Cambodian jungle
essence of Cambodian cuisine, amok is basically steamed
curried fish traditionally made with thick coconut cream,
galangal and aromatic kroeung spices that make up the
base flavours of many Khmer dishes. A bowl of classic
Cambodian fish amok
is reputedly as healthy
as it’s tasty and ours
was simply delicious.
Saving the best for last
we headed to
Cambodia’s most iconic
and awe-inspiring
temple, and source of
fierce national pride,
Angkor Wat, located
about six kilometres (four miles) north of Siem Reap. It is a
short walk across the gigantic 200m-wide 5km-perimeter
rectangular moat surrounding Angkor Wat – so big it is visible
from space – to reach the temple. Because the main entrance
is generally always crowded, it’s advisable to arrive via one of

the side entrances. As we walked
through the trees we really
weren’t sure what to expect.
Along the way what resembled a
number of mini temples or
outhouses dotted the route.
Mystical, magical and
marvellous. None of these
words, or any others for that
matter, really do justice to the
immense beauty of regal Angkor
Wat. Originally built roughly
between AD 1113 and 1150 by
Suryavarman II as a Hindu
temple dedicated to the god
Vishnu, Angkor Wat
encompasses an area of about
500 acres (200 hectares) and is
the earthly representation of
Mount Meru - the Mount
Olympus of the Hindu faith and
the abode of ancient gods. The
Cambodian god-kings of old
each strove to better their
ancestors’ structures in size,
scale and symmetry, culminating
in what is believed to be one of
the largest religious monuments
ever constructed. Its name
means “temple city.” Angkor Wat
was converted into a Buddhist
temple in the 14 th century, when
statues of Buddha were added to
its already rich artwork. But
Angkor Wat’s size is not the most
fascinating aspect of this
awe-inspiring monument. The
glorious architecture and
intricate detailing is what sets
Angkor Wat apart. It’s said that
the temple took 48 years to
construct, and, quite honestly,
when you see it up close you can
ANGKOR TEMPLE
118 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

understand why. Even after all
these years, faces, characters
and scenes are still easily
recognisable and the walls tell a
compelling story.
At the heart of Angkor Wat is a
213-foot-tall (65m) central tower
surrounded by four smaller
towers and a series of enclosing
walls – a layout that recreates the
image of mythological Mount
Meru, which believers consider to
be the center of all physical,
metaphysical and spiritual
universes. Reaching the top of
the central tower involves a
narrow and at times slightly
precarious and steep climb, but
it’s worth the effort. The view is a
spectacle of beauty befitting the
Khmer's architectural genius for
creating harmonious proportions.
Even after two hours of walking
around the site we hadn’t seen
the entire temple, but there’s only
so much one’s legs can take!
Refreshed and rehydrated
throughout our Angkor Wat
experience by fresh coconut
water, found throughout
Cambodia, we almost certainly
wouldn’t have survived such a
physically demanding day had it
not been for this refreshing drink.
Siem Reap contains a million
stories: tales of love, of courage, of
victory, of toil, of religion and of
resilience. We may have only been
in the city for less than 48 hours,
but the sights we saw and the
memories we made will almost
certainly remain with me forever.
120 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017
STONE FACE OF KHMER GODDESS APSARA

TA
TE
& S SIP
REVIEW
INDIAN
ACCENT
NEW DELHI
Food
Atmosphere
122 The Cultured Traveller Apr-May 2017

124 The Cultured Traveller Apr-May 2017
Indian food is beloved the world over for its rich sauces,
succulent meats and evolved vegetarian dishes. The
sub continent boasts vast and varied culinary traditions.
In the north, including the Delhi area and Rajasthan,
the food is heavily influenced by centuries of Mughal rule
and includes Persian, Middle Eastern and Central Asian
influences. Clay oven tandoori style cooking originated in
Persia and was brought to India via Afghanistan by Arabs.
Meanwhile Arabian and Portuguese trade and colonial
links heavily influenced cooking in India’s southern
coastal areas, where the food is spicier, with a greater
prevalence of chili and curry and more use of seafood.
Across the vast nation, rice, millet, lentils and chickpeas
are staples, while spices such as coriander, cumin,
cardamom, ginger and garlic proliferate. Indian flat breads
- such as naan and chapatis - and crisp breads including
papadums are found throughout the country and
accompany most meals.

Almost every five-star hotel in Delhi incorporates a restaurant
that serves Indian cuisine, but the emphasis is on delivering
classic dishes at high standards. Some of these restaurants
focus on regional offerings. But while traditional Indian food is
easy to find, as well as dishes prepared with less spices to
appeal to Western palettes, innovative Indian fare is still
relatively rare and it is this that makes Indian Accent so
unique. Indian Accent does something very different by
offering Indian-inspired cuisine with a modern twist,
incorporating contemporary global influences and unorthodox
yet tasty flavour pairings. In short, Indian Accent boldly shows
the culinary world what the future of Indian cuisine looks like.
Since opening in 2009, Indian Accent has been consistently
ranked as the one of the country’s top dining destinations
and is the only restaurant in India to feature in the World’s
50 Best Restaurants 2017. Consequently Indian Accent has
achieved culinary superstar status and has become a go to
destination for global foodies. Under the tutelage of head
chef and patron, Manish Mehrota, Indian Accent has
pioneered the fusion of traditional Indian heritage flavours
with global influences and modern cooking techniques.
A core part of Mehrota’s inspiration comes from the super
strict vegetarian home in which he grew up, in Patna, a
small town in eastern India. Mehrota’s meat-averse father
was so insistent about what was consumed indoors that his
wife had to cook eggs for the children in separate cookware
outdoors on the terrace. Mehrota has been known to trawl
the food bazaars of Old Delhi and sample street food in
search of culinary stimulation. India has so much regional
food diversity that his travels around the subcontinent also
serve as inspiration. Add inherent pan Asian and
Mediterranean food sensibilities, and it is hardly surprising
that Mehrota is widely regarded as the most exciting
modern Indian chef in the world today.

Playful and innovative, Indian Accent strives to offer dishes
which are deliciously different yet familiar enough to appeal
to the broadest and most discerning of palettes. Advance
reservations of weeks and sometimes even months are
required to assure a coveted seat at Indian Accent, and
serves as testament to its enduring popularity. My visit to its
flagship New Delhi location confirmed the hype.
Amidst the cacophony and managed chaos that is
contemporary New Delhi - one of the biggest cities on the
planet and capital of India - lies The Manor, an upmarket,
modern and somewhat discreet boutique hotel in a
metropolis better known for its ubiquitous international
luxury hotels. Located in the leafy and affluent Friends
Colony residential neigbourhood in South Delhi, The Manor
is a world away from the traffic and street peddler-choked
streets of New Delhi. However, since traffic throughout the
city is notoriously bad and unpredictable, plenty of extra
time should be allocated to arrive punctually for a
reservation at Indian Accent.
A verdant oasis of calm and unstuffy refinement, any
semblance of stress that journeying to The Manor may have
created is soon expunged upon entering the hotel’s
understated yet elegant entrance, decorated with a mix of
contemporary and antique art and furnishings. The overall
ambience is that of a private residence, purposely lacking in
fanfare and devoid of frenetic energy. Indian Accent is
housed in a suite of reception room-sized spaces on the
ground floor, including a glass-fronted veranda looking
towards frangipani trees and well-manicured grounds.
The restaurant’s layout fosters a dining experience that is
calm, civilized and comfortable. A stylish bar incorporating a
comfortable and whimsical lounge seating area adds
character to the neutral tones. Though the décor and
furnishings are tasteful and well appointed, the focus at
Indian Accent is decidedly on the culinary offering and
professional service, without the theatrical distractions that
seem to be so increasingly a part of so many high-end 21 st
century restaurant offerings.
Dining at Indian Accent is a veritable journey of the senses.
Taste, texture and presentation are executed flawlessly,
laced with just enough fussiness to reveal the creativity and
skill involved in showcasing each dish’s exotic flavours and
seasonal produce in a unique way. The experimental and
traditional are married in each dish with extreme skill and
culinary success. More than anything, the food tastes
wonderful, bursting with flavours. Although diners may
126 The Cultured Traveller Apr-May 2017

order à la carte, the six
course-tasting menu is the best way
to sample the broad array of what’s
on offer. This being India, there is also
a vegetarian tasting menu. Menus
change seasonally to include fresh
produce and introduce new
combinations and culinary
developments.
The tasting style of eating can often be
tedious and stuffy but not at Indian
Accent. Pulled pork quesadillas were
enhanced by jackfruit. Wild
mushrooms were served on a crisp
paper-thin dosa and brought to life
with a hint of wasabi raita. Tiger
prawns were topped with morsels of
bacon and homemade chutneys. John
Dory was served with coconut barley
and cashew pakora. My meal ended
with a trio of desserts which included a
saffron infused ice cream which was
so utterly sublime the taste has
lingered with me ever since. The
service was nothing short of
exceptional, with every server able to
explain each dish in
easy-to-understand detail. The delivery
of each course was spot on, the entire
dining experience flowing perfectly.
While Indian food has always had its
dedicated fan base, it has always
bowed to tradition and classical
preparation. Indian Accent shows
that it can be exciting, modern and
cutting-edge. Having recently opened
in New York to rave reviews Indian
accent now has London in its sights,
a testament to its broad appeal and
Mehrota’s gift for making culinary
inventiveness accessible and fun. By
refashioning classical Indian dishes
with global and modern twists,
Mehrota has firmly put
Indian-inspired 21 st century cuisine
firmly in the spotlight of the global
food scene.

INDIAN ACCENT
Food:
Atmosphere:
Executive chef:
Address:
Manish Mehrotra
The Manor, 77 Friends Colony (West), New Delhi,
India, 110065
Telephone: +91 11 43235151
Email:
reservations.del@indianaccent.com
Website: www.indianaccent.com
Cuisine:
Inventive Indian
Opening hours: Every day 12:00–15:00 + 19:00–23:00
Reservations: Essential
Lunch price: Potato sphere chaat + chettinad chicken keema +
daulat ki chaat: INR 2275++
Dinner price: Meetha achaar spare ribs + tamarind john dory +
warm doda burfi treacle tart: INR 2375++
Ideal meal: Non-vegetarian tasting menu INR 3300++ or
vegetarian tasting menu INR 3200++
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: No high chairs. No kids menu
Credit cards: All major
Parking:
Valet free of charge
Reviewed by Alex Benasuli on 14 th February 2017
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about
the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 129

TA
TE
& S SIP
NEWCOMER
TATEL
MIAMI
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 131

A steady stream of upscale eateries constantly open in
Miami - in Wynwood, Downtown, the Design District,
Brickell and, of course, in good old South Beach. If you
want a gastronomic barometer of America’s new culinary
trends or up-and-coming foodie fads - despite not having
one single Michelin star between the hundreds of restaurants
in Greater Miami - you can rely on the fashionable
Florida vacation resort to deliver a selection of hot new
dining venues to experience year in year out.
I rather enjoy seeing what’s new and what’s gone during
my annual pilgrimage to Miami, since as quickly as funky
new restaurants spring-up they also disappear, such is the
competition for affluent diners amidst the city’s sky high
rents. Premium sites are often left empty and unloved for
some time before an adventurous restaurateur with deep
pockets, a well known chef with a dedicated following, or a
famous name with hot connections risks investing in
opening a new eatery in America’s must-visit culinary
destination. The level of publicity essential to launch any
new restaurant in Miami is so great that it’s a very public
fall from gastronomic grace when one fails.
David Bouley's failed Evolution restaurant used to occupy
1669 Collins Avenue, within South Beach's Ritz-Carlton
hotel. Despite a much-hyped launch it lasted for all of one
year before closing in 2007. Apparently it was overpriced
and, well, Bouley just wasn’t there, like, ever. Then entered
the investors behind Bal Harbour’s highly successful bistro
La Goulue, who took over the space and launched Dorè
South Beach. Chef Jeff Pfeiffer (formerly of La Goulue) was
at the helm, dishing out French-inspired cuisine in both
tapas and entrée styles. But Preiffer’s food obviously wasn’t
a sufficient enough draw, for Dorè South Beach opened in
2012 and didn’t last much longer than Evolution.
It takes a highly courageous restaurateur or a really hot
ticket to take on a space with such a chequered past. Enter
Spanish pop music heartthrob and Miami Beach local
Enrique Iglesias, international tennis champion Rafael
Nadal, and six-time NBA All-Star San Antonio Spurs player
Pau Gasol. Together with partners Abel Matutes Prats and
Manuel Campos Guallar they opened the second outpost of
Tatel in March 2017 - its first location in the U.S. at 1669
Collins Avenue - and sister to the highly successful Madrid
restaurant of the same name.
More a clubstaurant than a conventional eatery, Tatel
Miami serves Spanish cuisine with style and glamour, its
centrepiece elevated circular copper DJ booth cum stage
kinda giving away the restaurant’s hipster and
music-orientated credentials. The large 200-seat
restaurant - in addition to the main dining room and
photogenic island bar (pictured) that’s outfitted with a
metal chandelier composed of more than a thousand
bronze tubes and hundreds of LED lights above - also
boasts a variety of semi-private rooms and a special VIP
dining suite with its own bathroom. The walls are
decorated with plenty of contemporary interpretations of
Spanish-inspired art, which combined with the velvet
upholstery and delicate colour palette lends a warm yet
sophisticated feel to the whole place that I rather liked.
Since Tatel hails from Madrid it unsurprisingly has a
Spanish-inspired menu. Think items like Spanish tortilla,
croquetas, grilled octopus topped with red sauce, and its
signature dish: thin veal steak breaded and fried, topped
with a slow cooked egg and black truffle. To carry on the
tradition Stateside, Tatel Miami hired Nobu Miami’s former
executive chef Nicolas Mazier to helm the kitchen. Mazier
trained for months alongside Madrid’s executive chef
Nacho Chicharro in order to deliver the secrets of Spanish
cuisine to Miamians. According to anyone who's had it, you
haven't experienced gastronomic perfection until you've
tasted Tatel's truffled potato omelette. My dining
companion devoured hers in a blink so it must have been
good. The modern variations on classic Spanish dishes I
sampled were all beautifully presented and tasted rather
good, especially the carved suckling pig. Then again I’m a
dedicated carnivore. I possibly wouldn’t visit a Spanish
restaurant if I was a veggie. But if you’re a lover of pork,
shaved truffles and Iberian ham, 1669 Collins Avenue in
SoBe may be your new favourite place to feast.
www.tatelrestaurants.com
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 133

music&
NIGHT
LIFE
THE CIRCUS DOESN'T
LIVE HERE ANYMORE

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 135

On Sunday 21 st May 2017, Ringling Bros. and
Barnum & Bailey said its final farewell to a
sold-out crowd of 17,000 incredibly
enthusiastic circus fans, at the Nassau
Veterans Memorial Coliseum in Uniondale, 19
miles east of New York City on Long Island,
ending the almost one and a half century
history of “The Greatest Show On Earth”.
It all began back in the late 80s, when Prussia
was still a kingdom and Jesse James was
robbing banks. Phineas Taylor Barnum was 61
years old when the circus collaboration was
presented to him by a proposal to collaborate
from mid-western circus managers, W.C. Coup
and his partner, Dan Castello. A born
showman, Barnum recruited many of his old
friends and performers, and sought exciting
new acts to join in his latest adventure, which
was “to totally eclipse all other exhibitions in
the world.” On 10 th April 1871 “P.T. Barnum's
Grand Traveling Museum, Menagerie, Caravan
and Circus" opened in Brooklyn. The show was
a massive success and hugely popular, and as
the concept gained momentum Barnum
secured a site which was to be a permanent
home for his spectacle. Opening on 30 th April
1874, The New York Hippodrome (later to be
known as Madison Square Garden), was the
largest public amusement structure ever built,
seating over 10,000 and costing USD 150,000
back then. The lavish productions presented at
the Hippodrome set the tone for the future of
the circus spectacular, and first-class
performances became synonymous with
Barnum shows.
When Brit James Bailey’s enormously
successful globally "The Great London Show”
began encroaching on Barnum's American
market, the idea of combining the two shows
was broached and the two great showmen
began working together. One of their first
famous moves as Barnum and Bailey was the
purchase of the legendary elephant Jumbo
from the Royal Zoological Gardens in London.
Standing over 11½ feet tall and weighing 6½
tons it wasn't long before Jumbo was the
fascination of America. Billed as a friend to the

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 137

children of the world, Jumbo's appearances
grossed more than USD 300,000 after only six
weeks in the States, and was Barnum and
Bailey's major attraction for over three years
until the elephant's accidental death. But the
tradition of using elephants in the circus had
begun, and in 1883 Barnum famously offered
to test the Brooklyn Bridge, which had just
opened, by having elephants walk across it.
The authorities turned him down, but a year
later, in a publicity stunt worthy of Barnum,
elephants and other animals marched across
the bridge anyway. Thus began the ritual
parade of elephants through the Midtown
Tunnel to announce the arrival of the circus in
New York City. In 1887 an ageing Barnum
relinquished part control of the show's
management and the circus became officially
known as “The Barnum & Bailey Greatest
Show on Earth”.
Bailey continued the management of circus for
many years after Barnum's death in 1891,
touring Europe and the States and steadily
building upon the grandeur of the production,
travelling with 28 rail cars, employing over
1,000 people, introducing 5 rings, creating
elaborate animated floats and wagons, and
incorporating modern acts. However by the
beginning of the 19 th century, Bailey's rivals,
the Ringling brothers, were as grand a
production in scale and pageantry as the
Barnum & Bailey show. After Bailey's death in
1906 his circus continued without a namesake
at the helm, making the Ringling brothers the
new kings of the circus world. A year later in
July 1907 they purchased the Barnum & Bailey
show and rights. In 1919, 28 years after
Barnum's death, the shows combined and
became known as “Ringling Bros. and Barnum
& Bailey Combined Shows, The Greatest Show
on Earth.” The circus survived the great
depression, two world wars and the new media
of its time, including radio, film and television.
American businessman Irvin Feld acquired
Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey for USD 8
million on 11 th November 1967, and marked the
occasion with a ceremony held at the
86 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 139

Colosseum in Rome. A year later the Ringling
Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Clown College
opened. Feld sold the circus to Mattel in 1971
for USD 50 million in Mattel stock but bought it
back from Mattel in 1982.
Feld Entertainment moved the circus around
the States by two simultaneously travelling
mile-long trains, the Red Unit and the Blue
Unit. Each train was almost 5,000ft in length
comprising more than 55 cars weighing a total
of 4,000 tons, and included everything from
school rooms to animal cars, a diner-like
restaurant known as “the Pie Car“, plus 33
conventional passenger coaches for circus
personnel and their families. Around 250
people – performers, train crew members,
porters, cooks, stagehands – lived year round
on each train as they crisscrossed the country
performing to an estimated 10 million people
each year.
Still rooted in its 19 th century traditions with a
dash of the modern mixed in, clowns flopped,
trapeze artists flew, wild animals jumped,
contortionists bent, horses galloped, tightrope
walkers wobbled and elephants balanced. But
in recent years, the “Greatest Show on Earth”
increasingly found itself in conflict with
changing times, values and tastes. Families
went out less together. Kids preferred to stare
at tiny screens. Animal-rights activists
opposed the long circus tradition of wild
beasts, objectified and tamed and performing
tricks for a crowd. And the cost of everything,
from tiger food to liability insurance,
sky-rocketed. The casts were huge. The
musicians were all live. Although the crowd
could still be counted in thousands the shows
were rarely full, and so the circus tried to
change with the times. Acts were bought in
from all over the world. But ticket sales, which
had been declining for a decade, markedly
plummeted last year when the ageing
elephants left the ring for the last time. Feld
Entertainment spent years battling animal
rights groups and accusations of elephant
abuse. But even after the circus’ 40 Asian
elephants were retired to Ringling’s 200-acre
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 141

Center for Elephant Conservation in Florida,
the animal rights protestors – who had billed
the production as "the saddest show on earth”
– merely moved on to the continued use of big
cats in the show, along with the dogs, sheep,
llamas, kangaroos, horses and the rest of the
travelling menagerie.
Eventually high operating costs coupled with
plummeting attendances after the elephants
were phased out made the circus
unsustainable. Basically the business model
no longer worked, and so in January of this
year, Kenneth Feld, the CEO of Feld
Entertainment, the producer of Ringling,
announced that the circus would hold its final
performances in May 2017. The massive
travelling circus, which elated crowds from
small towns to big cities across America with
its exotic animals and death-defying feats,
was to end its 146-year run. While circus
performers and enthusiasts lamented the
shutting down of “The Greatest Show on
Earth”, animal rights activists who had sparred
with Ringling for years said the end could not
come soon enough.
In its prime Ringling was an enormous operation.
Its three-ring tent seated 12,000 people,
featured two stages and depending on where
you sat you could see a completely different
show. It was that big. Back in the day, when the
circus came to town, it really was like a holiday.
Ringling's absence leaves about two dozen
circuses left on America’s roads, of various
sizes and formats - some three-ring, some
one-ring. But the circuses which are left are a
great deal more flexible than Ringling could be
with its vast trains and massive overheads.
Whether they will survive in years to come
remains to be seen, but the veritable
grandparent of the circus art form, and many
other kinds of modern live entertainment,
Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey, has sadly
folded its big tent forever.
WATCH THE FINAL 21 ST MAY 2017 PERFORMANCE OF
RINGLING BROS. AND BARNUM & BAILEY CIRCUS
142 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 93

GLOBETROTTER
GAVIN RAJAH
SINCE LAUNCHING HIS EPONYMOUS LABEL
IN 2000, GAVIN RAJAH HAS
DEMONSTRATED HIS AMPLE SKILLS FOR
ORIGINAL AND TECHNICALLY SUPERIOR
WORKMANSHIP BALANCED WITH
CREATIVITY AND COMMERCIAL SENSIBILITY,
MAKING HIS BRAND SYNONYMOUS WITH
FINE CRAFTSMANSHIP, LUXURIOUS
FINISHES AND DIVINE FABRICS. THE
RENOWNED SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION
DESIGNER CHATS EXCLUSIVELY WITH
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 145

What would you say led a young South African boy to
develop a penchant for fashion?
The idea of creating something that was transformative for
an individual really appealed to me. I liked the fact that
people could wear something and it could change the way
they felt about themselves. I wanted to create a world that
was in some way a utopic vision filled with beautiful things
(I soon realised that was not a viable proposition). The
more I ventured out of South Africa I realised people
appreciated the craftsmanship and aesthetic around the
clothes I was making.
Please tell us a little bit about what it was like to be a child
in the Rajah household.
I was constantly busy with music classes, art classes and a
host of extra curricular activities. When I was younger I
always thought that I would become a musician, but the
thought of practising the piano night and day wore thin
after a while. I was exceptionally opinionated and quite
talkative.
What prompted your move from Durban to Cape Town?
My studies at the University of Cape Town.
You studied law at university. How did your fashion career
come about?
I was an unhappy young lawyer since – with an unjust
legal system and apartheid still around – it was a
disheartening time to practise law. One day a friend told
me that I needed to do something that made me feel
happy and feel like I had purpose. Whilst at university I
sold clothes that were rejects from my dad’s clothing
business to make extra pocket money. I extended that to
making a few simple pieces through a seamstress I had
met which I would sell. One thing led to another and girl
friends asked me to help remodel their prom dresses.
Eventually I could remodel them no more and would
sketch what I thought they should wear. It was then that I
really started to dress women and I enjoyed how happy
people felt when they bought something from me. I learnt
everything from people around me, by immersing myself
into the production of clothing, and, having observed my
dad for many years working in the clothing industry, I
somehow recalled a lot of his skills. One thing that has
remained is my absolute eye for detail and my hands-on
approach – I think this is because I learnt every part of
the garment making process, and my standards were
very high from the outset since I was determined to not
be mediocre.

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 147

148 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

What was the pivotal moment when you decided that the
fashion industry was to be your future and you basically
went for it?
When people wanted to buy my pieces and were willing to
pay the prices I was asking. I was hell bent on not being a
struggling designer and was serious about my transition to
the fashion industry. Luckily I also started being featured in
lots of media.
Which part of the garment production process do you most
enjoy?
I like the actual design part coupled with the construction
process.
What would you say sets you apart from other international
designers at your level?
Our studio is very labour intensive when it comes to hand
finishing and embellishing so we effectively own all of
these processes in house. Basically we still do things the
old school way in our atelier. I equate luxury to hand
finishing or making something by hand – this lends an
emotional connection to the garments. We are able to do
this because we have a highly skilled work force and the
rand is weaker against foreign currency so we are
competitive in the extreme.
What was the first notable fashion achievement that set
you on the extraordinary journey of success you are on
today?
Being asked to show during Couture Fashion Week in Paris
by Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture - the French
trade association of high fashion. Whilst daunting I
suddenly realised that this was ‘it’.
Tell us about the Gavin Rajah woman and how wearing
one of your creations makes her feel?
I like to think that she ‘wears’ the garments and not the
other way around. I love women who feel empowered
wearing clothes without compromising on their femininity.
How do you source fabrics and what are your favourite
types to work with?
We often have fabrics made for us. I love having custom
made embroidered fabrics made for our collections. I
simply adore silk, embroidery and beading.
Visiting which country or continent provides you with the
most creative stimulation and ideas for new collections?
All travel is inspiring for me. Terrain, people, culture,
literature and art inspire me. I love Europe and Asia since
they have such rich, diverse cultural legacies to draw
inspiration from.
When designing a bespoke gown for a client, which part of
the process takes the most time and care to get just right?
Understanding the client’s goal and in what context she
will be wearing the garment. We always try to bring
something of the client’s style and/or personality into a
bespoke garment.
Tell us about meeting Nelson Mandela.
I had the privilege to work with him on some of the work of
the Nelson Mandela Foundation, and have always been
involved in his fundraising activities. He was an inspiring
man, very visionary and was a great mentor.
Who has been the most fun and professional supermodel
you’ve worked with?
Most definitely Naomi Campbell. She has a wicked sense of
humour and is always up for a challenge. She is also one of
the most compassionate and caring people I know.
What would you say are the essential elements of the
Gavin Rajah brand’s DNA?
Femininity, craftsmanship and pure unadulterated luxury.
What is the most lavish or extravagant gown you’ve ever
designed and for whom?
Probably a wedding dress for a client. We sourced fabrics
from Europe and it took over 8 months of embroidery to
create the finished product. We do not mention our clients
– couture is a world shrouded in secrecy I have learnt.
Will you ever design menswear?
I have but it’s not our core focus. It requires a whole new
atelier and there are simply not enough hours in the day for
me at present.
Please tell us about your work for the past decade as a
UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador.
My work with UNICEF is about raising the profile of
children’s causes. In particular I focus on violence against
children, child sex abuse and child trafficking. These are
not the popular poster causes that people want to see or
confront. Somehow it makes people uncomfortable. I
choose to champion crusades against these social evils.
Over the last decade I have worked to initiate #endviolence
campaigns in South Africa, including raising funds to build

child sex abuse clinics and petitioning the government to
foster changes in legislation.
How do you use fashion to raise awareness of kids from
vulnerable communities?
Instead of using the visibility I have to gain the best seats
at restaurants or preferential treatment I use it to bring
visibility to these issues and use my shows as a platform to
raise awareness of kids from vulnerable communities. I add
delicate metaphors on my garments that are not obvious
but contain meanings that unfold once I articulate the
social concerns with press and clients. I also use fashion to
raise funds for these causes. Part of the proceeds from my
sales goes to various charitable causes.
Choosing fashion as a career is fraught with challenges.
What advice would you give to aspiring young designers?
Think carefully before choosing this path since it is not for
the faint hearted! Fashion is a largely unregulated
profession and to be immersed in it requires tenacity and
sheer determination, not to mention talent. Be brutal with
yourself – just because you like fashion doesn’t mean
you’re a designer, and often vice versa. Creating a brand
takes money and you really have to fight to instil
confidence in your buyers and clients.
Travel is becoming increasingly easier and so we are
hearing the term “Destination Couture” used more
frequently. Your thoughts?
I am au fait with this as it’s a huge part of our business.
Clients fly in, get measured and have their toiles made, and
once we have perfected the fit and proportions they fly out.
We are then on call to make special occasion wear. It suits
many clients to have this ‘secret’ place where they can
indulge in their couture fantasies.
Please name-check one talented young African designer to
look out for.
Mozambican Taibo Bacar is a talented designer with a
great aesthetic.
What makes Cape Town such a special place for you to live
and work?
It’s maverick, has an irreverent sense of style and a
particular ethos that is hard to find elsewhere. Africa has
unique warmth found in its people but not easily found
elsewhere - Cape Town possesses both that warmth and
authenticity.
150 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

Your most memorable vacations to date and what made
them so special?
Six Senses Samui, made up of just 66 private villas, many
with personal pools, is an eco resort that infuses a lot of
chic into the word ‘eco’. Ensconced in a private villa with a
butler for whom no request was too much, left me feeling
refreshed and wanting more.
Langham Place, New York is a true oasis in the heart of
bustling Manhattan. From its spacious guests rooms to its
upscale bar and multiple culinary offerings – returning to
this hotel was bliss after being out for a day on New York’s
streets or crashing after a night out. The staff are simply
amazing.
What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?
Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris, not just because the linen
and beds engulf you, but also the high level of service and
the fact that the staff take a keen interest in making sure
guests are well looked after.
How does Gavin Rajah wind down after a long day in his
atelier?
Work, work and more work. If I do not have any social
engagements that relate to work or my charitable causes I
work from my study at home. I am also a huge sucker for
reading and watching inspiring documentaries. Recently I
have been appointed to the Advisory Board for Africa for
Harvard University so I find myself engaged in projects that
have the potential to transform young minds. Doing a lot of
this from my bed (I am obsessed with great linen) makes it
all relaxing!
If you could only take six items onto a plane what would
they be?
HANRO sleep suit, Loro Piana cashmere inflatable airplane
neck pillow, Kiehl's In-Flight Refreshing Facial Mist, iPad,
iPhone and Wanderlust Air Travel Socks.
Your greatest career achievement to date?
Everyday is an achievement. You are only as good as your
last thing. I think if you can wake up everyday and love
doing what you do and find that it has purpose and
meaning then that itself is the greatest achievement.
What’s next for Gavin Rajah?
We launch a home furnishings collection on 9 th November
2017 about which we are really excited, together with a
home fragrance range.
www.gavinrajah.com
152 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

A
AGUA DE MAR www.aguademar.com
ALQUÍMICO www.alquimico.com
AMARONE www.restaurantamarone.nl
B
BALLROOM www.ballroomrotterdam.nl
BAR TENDER www.bar-tender.nl
C
CAFÉ DEL MAR
www.facebook.com/cafedelmarcartagena
CAFÉ HAVANA www.cafehavanacartagena.com
CAFÉ LABRU www.supermercadorotterdam.nl
CHARMING HOUSE www.thecharminghouse.com
CITY GUIDE ROTTERDAM www.cityguiderotterdam.com
COCO HOUSE RESTAURANT
www.facebook.com/CocoHouseRestaurant
CUBE HOUSES
www.en.rotterdam.info/locations/kijk-kubus-1
D
DE BIJENKORF www.debijenkorf.nl
DE WITTE AAP www.facebook.com/dewitteaap
DEPOT ROTTERDAM www.depotrotterdam.nl
E
EL BOLICHE CEBICHERÍA
www.facebook.com/elbolichecebicheria
EUROMAST www.euromast.nl
F
FG www.fgrestaurant.nl/en
G
GABRIEL GARCÍA MÁRQUEZ TOUR
www.tierramagna.com/en/cartagena-de-gabo/
GAVIN RAJAH www.gavinrajah.com
GELATERIA PARADISO
www.facebook.com/gelateriaparadiso
GETSEMANÍ www.demente.com.co
H
HOTEL NEW YORK www.hotelnewyork.com
I
INDIAN ACCENT www.indianaccent.com
ISLAND BAR www.facebook.com/IslandBarSiemReap
ITZ’ANA RESORT http://itzanabelize.com/resort/
J
JOELIA www.joelia.eu
K
KANTHA BOPHA CHILDREN'S HOSPITALS
www.beat-richner.ch
KATAMAMA www.katamama.com
KUNSTHAL www.kunsthal.nl/en
L
LAURENSKERK www.laurenskerkrotterdam.nl
M
MAISON ALBAR HOTEL PARIS CÉLINE
www.maison-albar-hotel-paris-celine.com
MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO
www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo

MARGREETH OLSTHOORN
www.shop.margreetholsthoorn.nl
MARÍA www.mariacartagena.com
MARKTHAL www.markthal.nl/en
MEENT http://www.meent.nl
MOVICH ROOFTOP
www.movichhotels.com/eng/cartagena/movich-cartagen
adeindias/
MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN www.boijmans.nl
N
NY BASEMENT www.nybasement.nl
P
PALÁCIO TANGARÁ www.palaciotangara.com/eng
PARKHEUVEL www.parkheuvel.nl
POFFERTJESSALON SETH www.poffertjessalonseth.nl
Q
QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA
www.qasralsarab.anantara.com
R
ROTTERDAM MARRIOTT HOTEL
www.marriottrotterdam.com
ROTTERDAM WELCOME CARD
www.rotterdamwelcomecard.com
S
SAN ALBERTO CAFÉ www.cafesanalberto.com/en/
SANTANI www.santani.lk
SIR ALBERT www.siralberthotel.com
SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON www.sixsenses.com/zil-pasyon
SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA
www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena/en/
SONEVA JANI www.soneva.com/soneva-jani
SPIDO CRUISES www.spido.nl
SS ROTTERDAM www.ssrotterdam.com
SUPERMERCADO www.supermercadorotterdam.nl
T
TAMBURLAINE www.thetamburlaine.co.uk
TATEL www.tatelrestaurants.com
THE CENTRAL BOUTIQUE ANGKOR HOTEL
www.centralboutiqueangkorhotel.com
THE SAXON www.saxon.co.za
THE STIRR www.thestirr.nl
THE SUICIDE CLUB www.thesuicideclub.nl
THE VIP ROOM www.theviproom.eu
THE WHITBY
www.firmdalehotels.com/hotels/new-york/the-whitbyhotel/
TRAVEL CAMBODIA www.travelcambodia.com
V
VAN OLDENBARNEVELTSTRAAT
www.oldenbarneveltstraatrotterdam.nl
VISIT ANGKOR www.visit-angkor.org
W
WITTE DE WITH CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY ART
www.wdw.nl/en/
WORM www.worm.org
WUNDERBAR www.worm.org/venues/wunderbar/
Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 155