AD 2017 Q3

LOCAL DIVING
SAN MIGUEL ISLAND
Fog is a common sight
over San Miguel Island
when the ocean is calm.
Lover’s Cove would offer a mellow respite
but for the noise and stench that emanate
from a yowling chorus of sea lions, fur seals,
elephant seals and harbor seals on a stinking
stretch of sand nearby. At least the breeze
seems to be wafting the fragrance away from
the boat. The water is flat and still, and our
entire dive is at 45 feet. A fat harbor seal
follows us at a distance, terrorizing the local
blue rockfish and watching us inspect the
maze of low-lying rocks inhabited by a riot of
anemones, abalone and bat stars.
With the swell and wind predicted to pick
up significantly, the captain announces that
our next dive will be our last at Miguel. We all
groan, whine and then start a heated debate
over the final dive site. We reach a settlement
when someone proposes Rain Barrel, a reef
adjacent to and similar to Wyckoff Ledge.
Remembering the warbonnet, I excitedly
gear up and jump in as soon as the gates
open. I diligently search every rock in hopes
of photographing that showy denizen of the
north, but no luck. Fortunately, every other
colorful macro species I could want is present
and accounted for. Nudibranchs, fringehead
blennies and a bright-red baby cabezon make
the dive go by quickly.
Before long we’re back on the boat. The
ubiquitous fog bank has disappeared; a stiff
breeze has taken its place. It’s undoubtedly
time to head for a more protected island.
As I secure my gear I recall my seven-year
hiatus, and I can’t help but wonder gloomily
how long it will be before I see this place
again. But I know that worrying is futile. I’ll
have to rely on chance, hoping that good
fortune will hasten my return. That’s what
Miguel is all about. AD
HOW TO
DIVE IT
Getting
There
San Miguel Island
is the most
remote island in
Channel Islands
National Park
and Channel
1. Wyckoff Ledge
2. Abalone Alley
3. Judith Rock Pinnacle
4. Woodrow Pinnacle
5. Lover’s Cove
6. Rain Barrel
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CALIFORNIA
Santa Catalina
Island
Islands National Marine Sanctuary. It’s often accessed during multiday,
multi-island trips that include Anacapa, Santa Cruz and/or Santa Rosa.
Most charters depart from Santa Barbara or Ventura, Calif. Boats generally
board and depart at night for the six-(or more)-hour crossing. Even when
San Miguel is the stated destination, wind and swell commonly necessitate
a detour to a calmer location.
Conditions
The water temperature ranges from 48°F to 65°F, depending on the time
of year. A full 7 mm wetsuit with hood, boots and gloves is a must yearround,
and a drysuit is a better choice in the winter and spring. Visibility
ranges from 15 to more than 70 feet, with the best visibility and weather
in the late summer and fall. Because of San Miguel’s remoteness and
the possibility of rapidly changing conditions, strong surge and extreme
current, most sites are considered intermediate to advanced. Predive
briefings are an important part of dive planning at San Miguel, and
surface signaling devices are highly recommended.
Topside Adventure
There is a pinniped rookery on the southwest side of the island that can
be viewed from the boat when the ocean is calm, though boats must not
get too close (the distance varies by season). You can hike San Miguel’s
trails when a National Park Service staff member is on the island, though
permits are required for going ashore.
San Miguel Island is part of a national marine sanctuary, and there are
several marine protected areas around the island, so many sites have
regulations pertaining to harvesting and resource extraction. For detailed
information about the marine reserve and marine protected areas, visit
NPS.gov/chis or channelislands.noaa.gov.
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San Miguel
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6
Santa Barbara
Ventura
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Los Angeles
40 | SUMMER 2017