Your Showcase Jewellers Guide to Pearls

SHOWCASE
JEWELLERS
YOUR SHOWCASE
JEWELLERS GUIDE TO
PEARLS

The Showcase Guide to
the World of Pearls
The pearl is one of the ocean’s rarest treasures. Since ancient times natural
pearls have been used as jewellery and ornaments and the oldest known
pearl necklace is more than 4000 years old.
Pearls were often regarded as having a mystical quality and a life of their
own because of their unique glow that seems to radiate from their very
centre. In Roman times women would take pearls to bed in the belief that
they would assist them to have pleasant dreams.
So what exactly is a Natural Pearl?
It is an accident of nature. A natural pearl is produced when a minute
foreign object, perhaps a tiny living sea creature, becomes stuck inside
the shell and tissue of an oyster. When the oyster cannot get rid of the
‘irritant’ it eases the discomfort by coating it in ‘nacre’. Nacre is made up
of microscopic crystals; each crystal perfectly aligned with the others so
that it reflects light to produce a glow of light and colour.
The pearl is built up of layer upon layer of nacre. The more layers, the more
lustrous the pearl. However, because natural pearls are so rare, they are
expensive which is why ‘Cultured Pearls’ are a more affordable option.

Cultured Pearls
Giving nature a helping hand
Most pearls sold today are cultured pearls. These are pearls that are made
the same way as natural pearls in so far as an oyster coats an ‘irritant’
with nacre. However the ‘irritant’ does not find its way inside the oyster
by accident. This ‘irritant’ that is implanted is actually shell bead in salt
water cultured pearls, or, in the case of freshwater cultured pearls, a small
piece of tissue, which is implanted by a technician. These technologists
then supervise the process so that the oyster produces the best pearl
possible by ensuring it has the food it requires and that the water
temperature remains constant and free of pollutants. Because there are a
larger number of cultured pearls available than natural pearls, it is easier
to match pearls that are much the same size and shape. So a necklace of
cultured pearls will be more even in shape and colour than one made up of
natural pearls.
Imitation Pearls are exactly that
They are not real pearls. Both natural and cultured pearls are produced
by an oyster, however imitation pearls are manmade. A round glass or
plastic bead is simply coated in a pearly substance. The best way to tell if
a pearl is imitation or not is to place it directly alongside a real one and
compare the lustre. The real pearl will have a depth of lustre that the
imitation cannot match. An imitation pearl generally will have a surface
shine but no inner glow. Also look in the shaded area, in the real pearl you
will see a clearly defined reflection, in the imitation pearl you won’t.

Your Guide to the Perfect Pearl
Whether a pearl is natural or cultured, there are five factors that need
to be looked at to determine its quality.
Lustre and Orient
A pearl’s ability to reflect and refract light (lustre) creates an underlying
play of colours within the pearl (orient) which gives a pearl its unique inner
glow. The higher the lustre and orient the finer the pearl. The best way to
judge the lustre and the orient is to see how bright the “reflections” are from
the surface of the pearl (lustre), and to see how the strong the “rainbow
colours” are surrounding the reflection (orient).
Colour
Colour is another important factor when determining value. There are two
elements when considering colour: body colour and overtone. The ‘body
colour’ refers to the basic colour; white, yellow or black. The ‘overtone’ refers
to the slight tint that may be present. Very white pearls with a rose-coloured
tint are the rarest and most expensive. The creamier the colour becomes the
less costly they are. Cultured pearls are available in many colours including
gray,black, pink, blue and gold.
Freshwater Saltwater Akoya South Sea Tahitian
Size
As it is more difficult for oysters to grow large pearls, large pearls are more
scarce and therefore more expensive. However two pearls of the same size
may be valued differently because one may have a higher degree of lustre
and orient than the other.
Blemishes
How clean a pearl is depends on how free it is from surface imperfections.
Small blisters, spots and cracks can all diminish a pearl’s worth. The cleaner
the surface, the better.
Shape
The more symmetrical the shape, the more valuable the pearl. Perfectly
round pearls are extremely rare however nicely proportioned round, oval and
tear shaped pearls are all highly valued. Irregularly shaped (baroque) pearls
are less costly but their unusual shape can make for quite a dramatic look.

Types of Pearls
Akoya
Grown in pearl saltwater oysters off the coast of Japan and
are one of the most familiar types of cultured pearls.
They have a lovely orient and warm colour and rarely
reach more than 9mm in size.
Mabe
Large half-round cultured pearls that grow against
the inside shells of oysters rather than within the body.
Because of their hemispherical shape are less expensive
than regular round cultured pearls. They are usually
mounted in earrings, rings and brooches.
Freshwater
These are pearls that are cultivated in mussels rather than oysters
and are found in freshwater lakes and rivers. Generally they have
an elongated shape and a milky translucent appearance.
Keshi
Small, irregular shaped seedless pearls that form naturally in many
cultured pearl oysters.
South Sea Pearls
Australian
Rare and valuable large cultured pearls (10mm and larger) grown in
the warm waters off the Australian coast. Found in a variety of colours
including white, silver, gold, and rose.
Indonesian
Large cultured pearls (8mm and larger) slightly smaller
and creamier than their Australian counterparts.
Tahitian
Large gray to black cultured pearls
(typically 8mm – 14mm)
with overtones of reds,
blues and greens.

How to care for your Pearls
Cultured pearls are precious gems and need to be treated as such.
• When storing them in a purse or jewel box place them in a soft gem
bag or wrap them in a silk cloth to protect them from being scratched
by harder stones, metal edges or other jewellery.
• Don’t wear pearls in the shower, in the swimming pool
or while playing sport.
• Put your pearls on after you have applied your cosmetics,
hairspray and perfume.
• To help prevent discolouration wipe them frequently with a damp,
clean cloth.
• Never clean pearls with a harsh detergent or jewellery cleaner.
A drop of mild detergent in warm water should be all you need.
• Restring pearl necklaces at least once every two years to keep
your jewellery looking its best and to keep your pearls secure.
• For further information, visit your local Showcase Jeweller.
www.showcasejewellers.com.au