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annexure

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FABRIC<br />

AND ITS<br />

WEAVING<br />

The typical kilt as seen at modern Highland games events is made of<br />

twill woven worsted wool. The twill weave used for kilts is a "2–2<br />

type", meaning that each weft thread passes over and under two warp<br />

threads at a time. The result is a distinctive diagonal-weave pattern in<br />

the fabric which is called the twill line. This kind of twill, when woven<br />

according to a given sett or written colour pattern is called tartan.<br />

Kilting fabric weights are given in ounces per yard and run from the<br />

very-heavy, regimental worsted of approximately 18–22 ounces<br />

(510–620 g) down to a light worsted of about 10–11 ounces (280–<br />

310 g). The most common weights for kilts are 13 ounces (370 g) and<br />

16 ounces (450 g). The heavier weights are more appropriate for<br />

cooler weather, while the lighter weights would tend to be selected<br />

for warmer weather or for active use, such as Highland dancing.<br />

A modern kilt for a typical adult uses about 6–8 yards of single-width<br />

(about 26–30 inches) or about 3–4 yards of double-width (about 54–<br />

60 inches) tartan fabric. Double-width fabric is woven so that the<br />

pattern exactly matches on the selvage. Kilts are usually made<br />

without a hem because a hem would make the garment too bulky and<br />

cause it to hang incorrectly. The exact amount of fabric needed<br />

depends upon several factors including the size of the sett, the<br />

number of pleats put into the garment, and the size of the person. For<br />

a full kilt, 8 yards of fabric would be used regardless of size and the<br />

number of pleats and depth of pleat would be adjusted according to<br />

their size. For a very large waist, it may be necessary to use 9 yards of<br />

cloth.<br />

T Y P E S O F K I L T S A V A I L A B L E T O D A Y<br />

P r e - M a d e K i l t s<br />

U t i l i t y K i l t s<br />

C l a y m o r e I m p o r t s S y n t h e t i c K i l t s<br />

C l a y m o r e I m p o r t s T o p - S t i t c h e d K i l t s<br />

C l a y m o r e I m p o r t s C u s t o m 5 - Y a r d K i l t s<br />

C l a y m o r e I m p o r t s C u s t o m 8 - Y a r d K i l t s

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