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FABRIC<br />
AND ITS<br />
WEAVING<br />
The typical kilt as seen at modern Highland games events is made of<br />
twill woven worsted wool. The twill weave used for kilts is a "2–2<br />
type", meaning that each weft thread passes over and under two warp<br />
threads at a time. The result is a distinctive diagonal-weave pattern in<br />
the fabric which is called the twill line. This kind of twill, when woven<br />
according to a given sett or written colour pattern is called tartan.<br />
Kilting fabric weights are given in ounces per yard and run from the<br />
very-heavy, regimental worsted of approximately 18–22 ounces<br />
(510–620 g) down to a light worsted of about 10–11 ounces (280–<br />
310 g). The most common weights for kilts are 13 ounces (370 g) and<br />
16 ounces (450 g). The heavier weights are more appropriate for<br />
cooler weather, while the lighter weights would tend to be selected<br />
for warmer weather or for active use, such as Highland dancing.<br />
A modern kilt for a typical adult uses about 6–8 yards of single-width<br />
(about 26–30 inches) or about 3–4 yards of double-width (about 54–<br />
60 inches) tartan fabric. Double-width fabric is woven so that the<br />
pattern exactly matches on the selvage. Kilts are usually made<br />
without a hem because a hem would make the garment too bulky and<br />
cause it to hang incorrectly. The exact amount of fabric needed<br />
depends upon several factors including the size of the sett, the<br />
number of pleats put into the garment, and the size of the person. For<br />
a full kilt, 8 yards of fabric would be used regardless of size and the<br />
number of pleats and depth of pleat would be adjusted according to<br />
their size. For a very large waist, it may be necessary to use 9 yards of<br />
cloth.<br />
T Y P E S O F K I L T S A V A I L A B L E T O D A Y<br />
P r e - M a d e K i l t s<br />
U t i l i t y K i l t s<br />
C l a y m o r e I m p o r t s S y n t h e t i c K i l t s<br />
C l a y m o r e I m p o r t s T o p - S t i t c h e d K i l t s<br />
C l a y m o r e I m p o r t s C u s t o m 5 - Y a r d K i l t s<br />
C l a y m o r e I m p o r t s C u s t o m 8 - Y a r d K i l t s