Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19 Issue

Athens Japan Cruise News Spain Guyana
C A N A D I A N
Traveller
W O R L D
Already 17 Years
Winter 2018-19
Xi’An
warriors, walls & wonder
Come With Us & See The World!

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Senior Travel Writers:
Susan Campbell
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Regular Contributors:
Habeeb Salloum
Jennifer Merrick
Olivia Balsinger
Natalie Ayotte
Johanna Read
Jasmine Morcos
Ilona Kauremszky
Mike Cohen
Mathieu Morcos
Gregory Caltabanis
Anne-Marie Macloughlin
Daniel Smajovits
Cherie DeLory
Contributors This Issue:
Stephen Smith
Doreen Hemlock
In this issue, we start our world
escapade in Beautiful China by visiting
the best of Xi’an and amongst
many things: the unbelievable Terra Cotta
warriors and magnificent Muslim district.
While in China we head inland to experience
the bustling district of Chongqing
and then to cruise the mighty Yangtze. We
then finish our Asia tour with a wonderful
‘Adventure in Western Japan’ and taste its
bounties from the sea.
Next, we start the European leg of our
journey, we visit Athens and the wonderful
Acropolis and its museum and all the best
this worldly city has to offer before heading
to Prague’s old town square to see the
beautiful and refurbished Astronomical
Clock. Not far by, we take a cruise with
AmaWaterways and visit many countries
and the beautiful scenery along the
Danube from Nuremberg to Vienna. In
Northern Ireland we continue with a
‘Walking Adventure from Londonderry to
Belfast’. We take yet another cruise this
time to the far north. In Norway we join
the Viking Sea and head to the many
coastal communities in the land of the
midnight sun.
Our trip continues, now to Africa and to
the Spanish Canary islands to discover the
little know but wonderful island of Tenerife
and its multitude of offerings. In Uganda
we head to the highlands and find the
Gorillas are doing well and ‘Three New
Gorilla Families are now Habituated’. We
finish this segment to the far south with a
tour of South Africa.
To the Americas we go, in the east we feel
‘the Vibe in Maryland’ in this historic state.
In the west we explore ‘Canada’s First
National Park’ in beautiful Banff and then
to a wonderful retreat in British Colombia
and a time out to relax and recharge in
this natural Canadian paradise. In Central
America we take in ‘A Costa Rica Wildlife
Vacation’ and finally, to Guyana and a
visit to the awesome Kaeiteur Falls.
Happy travels!
Disclaimer: World Traveler has made every effort to
verify that the information provided in this publication
is as accurate as possible. However, we accept
no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience
sustained by anyone resulting from the information
contained herein nor for any information
provided by our advertisers.

Athens
Destination Features
Xi’An - Warriors, Walls & Wonder 8
Exploring Banff - Canada’s First National Park 10
An Adventure in Western Japan 12
Feeling the Energy at the Yasodhara Ashram 14
A for Athens 38
A Northern Ireland Walking Adventure from Londonderry to Belfast 40
Feeling the Vibe in Maryland 54
A Costa Rica Wildlife Vacation 56
A Visit to Guyana’s Kaeiteur Falls 70
3-2-1 Go Tenerife! 72
Cruise News
Viking Cruise
Yangtze Cruise
AmaWaterways Cruise
Stay & Play - 58
Around the World 16
Kananaskis Mountain Lodge
Egypt

8
Xi’An
Warriors, Walls & Wonder
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
Just cannot get enough of China!
With 13 trips and counting, one particular
destination had eluded me for two decades.
Surprising how I never made it here before
as it is one of the most visited cities in China
and part of the classic itinerary that included
Beijing and Shanghai.
But Xi’an was now in my sights and I was
ready.
Both Shanghai and Beijing are great destinations.
They are sophisticated, modern
and worldly, and so is Xi’an. The real difference
is Xi’an is all so cultivated, inviting and
has many centuries of recorded history and
wonderful attractions.
Our time here would bring us to the most
iconic sites, from the famous terra cotta warriors
to everyday life of the local Muslims to
world class shows. In the end, I would have
many fond memories of the city that thrilled
and at times mesmerized me.
Terra-Cotta Warriors and Horses
The number one attraction in Xi’an and one
of the top sites in China is nothing less than
the unbelievable Terra Cotta warriors.
Seeing them in magazines and on TV is just
a tease, as seeing them live is amazing. Row
upon row of individual looking soldiers,
generals and horses captivate all who visit.
The story gets even more interesting as our
guide would explain the history. The figures,
date from at least the the late third century
BCE, were discovered in 1974 by local
farmers. They are now a UNESCO World
Heritage site. The Terracotta Army, as it is
known, is a collection of sculptures depicting
the armies of Qin Shi Huang, the first
Emperor of China, and was a form of funerary
art with the purpose of protecting the
emperor in his afterlife. It is believed that the
three pits containing the Terracotta Army
held more than 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots
with 520 horses, and 150 cavalry horses.
Absolutely astounding!
Muslim Street
Our visit to Muslim street was a wonderful
surprise and also something very different
from the Terra Cotta warriors - and even
anything else I had ever seen in China. After

all, this religious group that came here centuries
ago with the silk trade. The first
Muslims came from central Asia when the
silk route first started, and have been a very
important part of the province of Shaanxi
and China.
This rather short street had a carnival
atmosphere with bright and colourful neon
lights, and much shouting and haggling by
merchants wanting your attention to sell
their goods. Vendors sold anything and
everything you could want to eat, and that is
literally the truth as they had many exotic
things such as insects and animal parts I
would never be able to name.
Great Mosque of Xi'an
Still unimaginable, there were actually
mosques here, which is not something I
would usually associate with China. A very
beautiful area with well-kept grounds. The
main buildings looked nothing like you
would see in the Middle East. Instead, to an
untrained eye, it would look just like any historic
Chinese building. Our time here was
fascinating and our interaction with locals
was brief but meaningful, they welcomed us
in with proud smiles.
Xi’an City Wall
Yet another wonder is the historic center of
Xi’an were the fortifying walls, one of the
oldest, largest and best preserved Chinese
city walls. In its time, it was an engineering
marvel encompassing more than 14
sq./km. So massive was the structure that it
was a physical deterrent to its enemies and
the city was never successfully raided.
Features of this fortress are four main gates
on each side of the rectangular structure,
ramparts every 120 meters, a moat and
watch-towers. From the walls one can see
the ancient city to the inner side and the
modern part of the city to the outside.
Big Wild Goose Pagoda
The Wild Goose Pagoda is a Buddhist pagoda
was built in 652 during the Tang dynasty.
Within it, sutras and figurines of the Buddha
that were brought to China from India by
the Buddhist translator and traveler
Xuanzang are housed. Today, the interior
walls of the pagoda also feature engraved
statues of Buddha by the renowned artist
Yan Liben.
Huaqing Palace
Huaqing Palace, also known as the Huaqing
Hot spring, has a long, mysterious past, and
legend has it that it can cure diseases which
attracted many emperors to build palaces
nearby. Visitors can visit an associated
museum.
If you are lucky enough to come during the
period between April and October, you will
be able to watch the musical performance
named “Song of Everlasting Sorrow”, presented
with a backdrop of the Lishan
Mountain and the ponds, pavilions, corridors
and palaces in the background. The
performance is a historical drama with dazzling
lights, beautiful music and dance, lavish
costumes and the grand stage.
Shows galore
Every night we were in Xi’an we were able to
watch live performances. Just like the
numerous shows I had the privilege of
watching all over China, these here would
be incredibly well choreographed and
directed with lots of enthusiastic singing,
lively dance, colourful costumes, and
impressive elaborate sets. Wonderful in person,
they are a joy to relive once I got home
and flipped through the picture and short
videos, I always find a bit of something more
to the show which I originally missed. This
only proves how deep these performances
really are.
Xi’an, the past, now and forever
As China is such a wonderful destination,
immensely fascinating, culturally diverse
with a long and colourful history so it goes
that Xi’an is the same with a back foot planted
in the past and a strong leg stretching out
to the future.
www.tourismchina.org
9
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

10
Exploring Banff
Canada’s First National Park
Article and photography by Jennifer Merrick
WT Photo Library
Astrong odour, which smelled like
peeled hard boiled eggs – a little on
the rotten side—hit us as we entered.
“It’s not me; I had a bath,” joked our Parks
Canada guide, Amar Athwal.
We were at the Cave and Basin National
Historic Site, the birthplace of Banff National
Park and Canada’s federal park system,
which now encompasses over three dozen
parks and 174,000 square miles of protected
lands and waters. And it all came about
because of this pungent odour. Well, more
specifically, of where the smell was coming
from -- the sulphurous, emerald hot springs
along the aptly named Sulphur Mountain in
the Canadian Rockies.
Athwal explained that this area had a long
human history and was known to indigenous
nations for over 14,000 years. Europeans first
discovered it in the late 1800s, when an
explorer slipped in the marsh and discovered
the water was warm.
“I’m sure they followed their noses as well,”
said Athwal.
News of these magical waters travelled to the
capital, and parliament passed an act to set
aside ‘a hot spring reserve’ officially declaring
it ‘for the benefit of all Canadians’, making it
the country’s first protected natural space and
the second in North America (after
Yellowstone). In the 1930s, it was expanded,
encompassing 2,564 sq. mi and became
Banff National Park.
This mountain wilderness reserve proved to
be a benefit not only to Canada but to the
world. Each year, over 3.6 million visitors
from around the globe come to awe at the
stunning alpine landscapes and wildlife.
We experienced both and so much more on
our visit to Alberta; I was even grateful for the
smell, because that made it all possible. Here
were some of the highlights:
Lake Louise
Banff’s most iconic of views is justifiably
famous. The jade green colour of the glacial
lake changes constantly depending on the
light, but is always a jewel set in the towering
peaks that surround it. Close to its shores is
the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a luxury

historic hotel that looks like a castle out of a
fairy tale.
After a leisurely hike along its shores, we
lunched at the Lakeview Lounge, where it was
hard to concentrate on the food with a window
looking out at the mesmerizing views.
About 30 minutes up the mountain was
another unforgettable sight, the 20-dollar
view of Moraine Lake. This glacial lake with its
enchanting aquamarine colour, was the scene
on Canada’s 20-dollar bill from 1969-1979.
Banff Gondola
Hiking up Sulphur Mountain that overlooks
Banff takes close to two hours and is somewhat
arduous, but the Banff gondola lifted us
up above the clouds in a mere eight minutes.
At the top, we strolled along the ridgetop
boardwalk, where the atmospheric mist occasionally
parted revealing glimpses of the
mountain peaks.
In addition to the breathtaking views, there’s
an interpretive centre, a theater, 360-degree
observation deck and restaurants. Choices
included Castle Mountain Coffee for a quick
pick-me-up, Northern Lights for a marketstyled
eatery and Sky Bistro for an upscale
dining experience.
Elk Encounters
Spotting wildlife is a huge draw for visitors,
and park residents include bears, wolves,
bighorn sheep, elk and coyotes. Of course,
not being a zoo, there are no guarantees as
we discovered well into our visit. The big-horn
sheep that often hang out on the top of
Sulphur Mountain by the gondola were
nowhere to be seen. We kept our eyes peeled
as we drove through the park; but as much as
we enjoyed the scenery, not a creature stirred.
Finally, at a scenic lookout point off
Compound Road, I saw a yellow-furred mammal
flitting through the trees. “Look!” I cried
and grabbed a friend’s arm. And there it was
–a golden retriever.
On our last day in Banff, we had yet to see
any of its wild inhabitants. A local shared with
us that one of the best places to spot wildlife
was on the Fairmont Banff Springs Golf
Course. It didn’t take long on our drive to be
rewarded with the sighting of a lone bull with
antlers so wide I half expected it to tip over. But
as the biggest deer species alive at over 700
pounds, he could handle the rack that could
grow over four feet above his head.
While we snapped pictures, he sauntered right
in front of us. Then something amazing happened.
He raised his head and emitted a
sound the likes of which I had never heard
before, a sound that I never would have
expected from an animal this size. Not a deep
roar or a booming trumpeting, but a shrill,
high-pitched banshee shriek. These rutting
calls are called bugles and are only heard
during mating time.
Amazed, I wished him luck as he disappeared
into the trees. He would need it since two minutes
down the road, smack in the middle of
the golf course, we spotted an entire heard of
elk. About a dozen females, a few resting in
the sand traps, and one very large lone bull
stood in front, guarding his harem, ready to
fight any competitors.
Note: this time of year, people have to be
especially careful around these normally
docile creatures. Parks Canada recommends
three bus lengths of space.
Banff Sleeps and Eats
The town of Banff itself has a population of
approximately 7,500 and accommodation
that ranges from the luxurious and historic
Banff Fairmont Springs to bed and breakfasts
and hostels. There’s shopping and a sizable
selections of cafes, eateries and restaurants.
One in particular should be on your list
(unless you’re a vegetarian). Chuck’s
Steakhouse, a western-style restaurant, prides
itself on their steak and for good reason. Their
menu features a range of locally-sourced beef
with an on-site aging room. Our waiter educated
us on various cuts and preparations
available and made recommendations based
on our preferences. In the end, we shared a
family-styled platter of prime, Wagyu and
grass-fed steaks that were grilled to perfection.
We stayed at the Moose Hotel, which was
impossible to miss because of the large sculpture
of a moose in front. Their suites were spacious
and had fully-equipped kitchens and
fireplaces in the living area. Their rooftop pool
was an ideal way to end a day of
mountain exploring, and fitting considering
that it was a hot bath that started
it all.
Getting There and Things to do in Calgary,
Alberta
As most visitors do, we flew into Calgary,
Alberta, and rented a car. It’s a scenic 90-
minute drive from the city to Banff. Parks
Canada also offers a shuttle on summer
weekends, and there are private transport
options for those who prefer not to drive.
Many people go straight from the airport to
the mountains. This is a mistake. Rooted in its
western hospitality, Calgary has come into its
own in recent years with a thriving chef-driven
culinary scene, a creative arts and cultural
community and festivals throughout the year.
Here are just a few ways to enjoy Alberta’s
largest city:
Savour a meal at one of the city’s innovative
restaurants. My favourite dining experiences
were at Bread and Circus, Foreign Concept
and Deane House.
Enjoy a cocktail or two. For a smaller-sized
city, Calgary has made a big name for itself
on the cocktail circuit gaining accolades and
awards in international competitions. Stars on
scene are Proof, Native Tongues, Klein Harris
and Hotel Arts.
Stroll Calgary’s oldest neighborhood.
Inglewood has art galleries, vintage shopping,
nature preserves (including a bird sanctuary)
and great dining.
Visit the pandas at the Calgary Zoo.
Discover the urban pathway along the Bow
River by bike or on foot. Nomad Mobile Gear
Rental outfitters offer tours that show
Calgary’s impressive networks of trail.
And if you happen to be here from July 5 to
14th, join the city’s biggest party –The
Calgary Stampede.
www.travelalberta.com
11
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

12
An Adventure in Western Japan
Article and photography by Steve Gillick
Certainly one of the joys of re-visiting
Japan is that on each successive
trip (this was my 18th visit) there are
still so many amazing places to discover. On
our latest quest in the West, we encountered
both Heaven, in Izumo - the dwelling of the
gods, and Hell in Kannawa - in the hot
springs, called ‘Jigoku’. But throughout our
adventure in Western Japan, it was the small
towns, natural attractions, shrines, local personalities,
accommodations and food that
made just about every moment of the eightday
journey, ‘pop’ with excitement, energy
and enthusiasm.
It all began with a one hour flight from
Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to the city of Tottori,
where we immediately set out to visit the
famous sand dunes. The first views were captivating
as before us lay a large, flat plain
with one large dune, about 50 meters high,
on which a procession of people were slowly
climbing the ankle deep sand. We ignored
the signs pointing to the chair lift and the
camel rides, as we wanted to experience this
national, natural treasure first hand. We
trudged over to the dune and then up to the
top where, with dramatic grey clouds overhead,
the scenery of the coast and the Sea of
Japan was a notch above spectacular. And
for the next hour or so we took photos of the
coast, the dunes, the tourists, the colourful
hang gliders and even the camels, as well as
taking time to just sit in the sand, listen to the
waves and feel the breeze. Quite the experience!
And with the Sea of Japan top-of mind, we
headed to the Karoichi Market. The stalls
specialize in selling Beni Zuwai Gani (red
Snow crabs) and huge squid, one of which
was just short of a meter long and selling for
roughly $89.00 U.S. In the grocery section,

there were bags of cherry tomatoes next to
Tottori’s famous, sweet shinko-nashi pears.
For lunch we went to Karokou and enjoyed
Kaisen Don, a large bowl of delicious, fresh,
assorted seafood on a bed of rice, with Miso
soup and pickles on the side.
The next morning, bright and early we were
on the road again, or more accurately, the
rails, as we used our Japan Rail Passes to
continue westward to the city of Izumo in
Shimane Prefecture. Our first stop was the
Izumo Taisha Shrine, one the earliest Shinto
Shrines in the country. And similar to most
Shrines, a Torii gate marks the entrance to
the sacred area, followed by a walkway
through a long forested path. The main
structure, only accessible with special permission
or through Imperiall lineage, is characterized
by ‘chigi’, large scissor-like structures
on the roof, used as a building support technique.
Nearby, Kagura Hall features the
largest sacred straw rope (shimenawa) in the
country, reportedly weighing 5 tons. And
throughout the Shrine, the trees are covered
in ‘omikuji’, white pieces of paper on which
wishes and hopes for good luck, good jobs,
and good relationships are written, and left
to be answered by the Kami, the Shinto spirits.
Back in Izumo, we visited Asahi Shuzo Sake
Brewery and chatted with Eriko Terrada. She
explained that she began her career as an
apprentice and is now the Sake Maker, not
only developing new varieties using different
sake rices, but also designing the labels.
Samples of the products only added to this
enjoyable encounter.
A short train ride took us to Tamatsukuri
Onsen, a hot spring town where we spent the
night at the Hoshino Resorts Kai Izumo, a
boutique ryokan (Japanese Inn) that included
gardens, tatami rooms, hot baths, sake tasting
and for dinner, tasty local dishes. The
word ‘Izumo’ relates to the heavens. So it
was fitting that the evening theatrical performance
told the tale of a god slaying an
evil serpent in order to spare the daughter of
an elderly couple. Afterward the god and the
daughter married, and one of their ancestors
is said to be enshrined at the Izumo Taisha
Shrine. No wonder they call this area ‘the
dwelling of the gods’.
And with ‘heavenly’ thoughts in mind, it was
only natural for our next westward destination
to be Beppu in Oita Prefecture on the
island of Kyushu. We bought one day bus
passes and headed to Kannawa to see the
hot springs and geysers. The town itself is a
great place to wander, with free steamy foot
baths, restaurants where you put on heavy
duty gloves and steam your own dishes,
shrines where you can drink pure spring
water for good health and good luck, and
numerous hot baths where, for a small fee,
you can soak to your heart’s content.
But the main tourist area consists of five sites
(with another two sites, a short bus ride
away). It was ironic that we came to Beppu to
experience the heavenly hot springs in our
hotel (which we did several times a day) but
that we were also exposed to Hell!
The Kannawa area is actually referred to as
‘Jigoku’ or ‘Hell’ and statues of Oni (evil
demons that somehow look kind of friendly)
are there to create that underworld feeling.
Get ready for steaming vents, bubbling mud
and great photo and selfie opportunities,
along with hot springs with names such as
Cooking Pot Hell, Oniyama Hell (where they
breed crocodiles), White Pond Hell (white
boiling waters), Blood Pond Hell (due to the
red-colored clay) and Geyser Hell (where the
hot spring erupts regularly every 40 minutes).
It was a fun and fascinating day.
Once again we took the train westward to
visit the city of Kumamoto. We took a local
bus outside the city and got off at the base of
Mt. Kimpo, amidst a beautiful landscape of
rice terraces, orange orchards and fire-red
maple trees. Our destination was Reigando,
the cave where the great 17th century
swordsman, Miyamoto Musashi spent his
final years composing The Book of Five
Rings, a treatise on swordsmanship and tactics.
I had read Musashi’s biography and
seen the 1954 movie about his life, so this
was a bit of a personal pilgrimage. First you
encounter the Five-Hundred Rakan Buddha
Images. These are stone statues of disciples
of the Buddha and were carved by a man
and his son at the end of the 1700’s. And just
beyond is the cave. You ascend stairs to find
an alter and some signage paying tribute to
Musashi. Outside the cave all you can see
are trees and all you hear are birds. It’s a
very peaceful, meditative place.
However, variety is the spice of life so in total
contrast to our peaceful pilgrimage, we travelled
north to Fukuoka City where we attended
the November Grand Tournament of
Sumo wrestling. What a hoot! In a carnivallike
atmosphere, there are colourful banners
and souvenir stalls selling snacks and drinks
along with Sumo souvenirs. In the stadium
stands, people were cheering loudly for their
favourite wrestlers and holding up signs to
encourage them. We spent four hours watching
the wrestlers parade into the ring, do
their leg stomps, slap their bodies and then
engage in combat for a period that ranged
from several seconds to several minutes. It
was 400 pounds of great fun, repeated over
and over.
We used our Japan Rail Pass one last time for
the return journey to Tokyo. This was a memorable
trip. On most evenings we stayed in
conveniently located business hotels, and
every evening we tried a new izakaya for dinner,
enjoying a delicious variety of food that
ranged from deep-fried Fugu and Oysters, to
yakitori, soba, sashimi and cod roe. And in
each city we drank the local sakes, to truly
get a flavour of the destination.
Many travelers visit Tokyo and Osaka on their
first visit to Japan, but there so much more to
experience on successive visits. In our case
we ran the gamut from Heaven to Hell and
had an exceptional time doing it!
www.ilovejapan.ca
13
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

14
by Jasmine Morcos
Daniel Seguin
This past September, I went through
an unforgettable, life changing journey.
This journey, which was more
than I ever anticipated, started with a stroll
into a forest with a beautiful lake and a stunning
mountain view. I was in Kootenay Bay,
British Columbia, about to embark on a
retreat at the Yasodhara Ashram.
History
The Ashram was founded by Swami
Sivananda Radha, whose vision was to create
a sacred space where people could gather
and grow. Swami Radha’s story began in
1956 after she had been drawn to India and
her guru, Gurudev Sivananda. Before she
returned to Canada, he told her to start an
Ashram there and gave her these words of
advice:
“When you leave here, go where you have
mountains in the back, water in front, and
trees all around. The mountains will give you
strength and energy, the water will calm the
mind, and the trees will offer you protection”.
With these words in her heart, she began
teaching and offering lectures in Montreal
until a group of her most passionate students
convinced her to pack her bags once again
and head to Burnaby, BC. There they bought
a home and started the first ashram in
Canada. However, after several years, she
remembered Gurudev’s advice and searched
for the place he had described. This led her to
the Kootenays in southeastern BC and the
home of the Yasodhara Ashram we know
today.
Programs
Yasodhara Ashram offers many different programs
and packages. Guests can choose to
stay for one day, a week or even for several
months. Regardless of time spent there, they
will enjoy a variety of spiritual and self-development
activities. All meals are included during
their stay.
My Experience
I stayed at the Ashram for three days. Coming
from Montreal with a connection in Calgary I
flew across the Rocky Mountains to
Cranbrook, where I was joined by others. We
then drove more than two hours through the
magnificent Purcell Mountains and arrived in
the late afternoon at the Ashram.
Amy Allcock
Amy Allcock
Tegra Stone-Nuess

There was a snack waiting for us and we
toured the premises-which included the magnificent
new Temple of Light. I was then
escorted to my room that had two single beds
and a warm chalet feel, overlooking a spectacular
view of lake and mountains. While I
did have a private bathroom, it was not
directly attached to the room.
Once settled, our group was given an introduction
to the Ashram, the programs and the
mission.
Yoga Retreat
Every morning before breakfast, we were
guided through a Hatha Yoga routine. The
studio overlooking the lake and mountains
was breathtaking. Each yoga session was
about an hour, where we were talked through
breathing exercises and stretches. During the
later morning and afternoon I attended a
retreat called “Breath: The Invisible Work.” It
was recommended that we bring a journal to
class in order to write down our thoughts and
reflections. The instructor would often ask us
to explore the feelings that were present after
certain exercises.
Although I enjoyed the breathing exercises, it
was not what I had anticipated. I expected
more of a physical workout each day, but the
focus here in this retreat was much more on
self-reflection and breathing.
Satsang
After dinner we went to Satsang, which is a
nightly gathering of people in the Temple of
Light. Everyone is given a booklet containing
the songs for the evening. Some chants are
repeated for 20 minutes and are called
Mantras, which are meant to focus the mind.
Musicians staying at the Ashram are encouraged
to participate and play instruments. At
the end of the session, the Satsang leader distributed
a treat symbolising the sweetness of
the yoga teachings. We shared a prayer
together before consuming.
Karma Yoga
This is a traditional yoga – although unlike
anything I had experienced. Karma Yoga
means selfless service and we had the opportunity
to join in. Participants are assigned a
task such as working in the kitchen, cleaning
rooms or working in the garden. Most of the
group, including myself, worked in the garden.
This activity is a way to give back to the
Ashram, explore the power of work as a spiritual
practice, and promote teamwork. We
were also asked to devote this time to something
or someone that we were grateful for.
Personally this was one of the activities I
enjoyed the most. Working in the garden
where most of the food is harvested gave my
group an appreciation and a purpose to perform
the work well.
Dining
The food throughout the stay was excellent. It
was nutritious, delicious, full of flavour and
beautifully presented. Most ingredients are
either grown on site or are locally sourced.
Guests are able to choose their meals themselves
with a wide variety of selections served
buffet style. The chef is also very accommodating
to dietary restrictions.
Inside the Ashram’s main building, guests are
asked to remove their outdoor shoes and
replace them with indoor wear. As we were
taught during our introductory tour, all meals
were taken in total silence. The purpose is to
be in tune with what we put into our bodies
and to promote mindfulness. For me this was
very challenging as I believe meal time is
where we share thoughts, conversation and
laughter with others. I had difficulty suppressing
the desire to speak with those around me.
Breakfast was served at 8 am every morning,
lunch at 12:30 and dinner at 6 pm. We had
about 30 minutes to eat.
Exploring outside the Ashram
On the second day, we went on a visit to the
East Shore of Kootenay Lake where we had
the chance to visit local artisan shops, go for
a little hike in the Crawford Bay wetlands and
try out a local restaurant, the Black Salt Cafe.
The sun was shining, the weather was great
and we were able to eat on the café’s beautiful
terrace surrounded by many flowers. I was
delighted with the variety of choices on the
menu and I can honestly say I ate one of the
best falafel pita sandwiches I’ve ever tasted. I
was amazed by how fresh and tasty everything
was in this restaurant. I definitely
recommend Black Salt Café to anyone
visiting the area.
After lunch, we went to visit the diverse artisan
shops in this small community. I had heard
about a broom store in Crawford Bay that
produced hundreds of brooms for marketing
of Harry Potter movies. Being a tremendous
Harry Potter fan myself, I was so excited to visit
the North Woven Broom store. Inside this
adorable log barn, we got to meet and chat
with Luke Lewis, the broom-maker himself.
We learned about different styles of brooms
and how each are carefully woven and tied to
many types of handcrafted handles. I challenge
you to leave this store empty handed!
There is something for everyone, from a small
souvenir to a quality broom, you will find
something that matches your budget and size
preference. Shipping is also offered if you
wish to purchase a bigger broom that you
don’t want to carry throughout your trip.
After visiting a few other shops, we stopped at
the Dog Patch Pottery store. We had a demonstration
and small tour by the lovely owner
Lea-Rae Belcourt. Once again it was hard for
me not to purchase anything and ended up
buying a beautiful turquoise jewelry bowl
made on premises. I also purchased some
wonderful greeting cards made by Kari Lehr,
a local artisan.
On our second to last night we returned to
Kootenay Bay for dinner. We went to a restaurant
named the Kootenay Cabin and had the
opportunity to meet the chef. Their mission is
“to foster a greater connection between the
regional farm and our guest’s table; it is the
driving factor in our food, service &
ambiance.” This was a perfect fit with our
experience at the Ashram. The food was
fresh, creative and delicious. Make sure to
check it out if you are in the area, it is worth
the drive. It is right next to the ferry landing in
Kootenay Bay.
My stay at the Ashram was very educational
and enlightening, and this short but meaningful
retreat has given me a new way of looking
at life and experiencing what is often lost in
our rushed and hurried lifestyle.
www.yasodhara.org
15
Amy Allcock
Jasmine Morcos
Jasmine Morcos
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

16
Around The World
(in 22 pages)
The Prague Astronomical Clock
is Back in the Old Town Square!
After months of renovation and repairs (both internal and
external), Prague's time-keeping beauty is back in action. The
polished facade was unveiled in September 2018, drawing
crowds to watch the promenade of moving characters every
hour from 9am to 11pm.
Every hour, hundreds of tourists from all over the world gather
in front of the Old Town Hall to enjoy a fascinating mechanical
performance which in the Middle Ages was considered one of
the wonders of the world. The Prague Astronomical Clock,
which for 600 years has been one of the greatest treasures of
the city, still amazes people with its procession of Apostles,
moving statues and visualization of time like no other instrument
in the world.
www.czechtourism.com
China Tourism Introduces
New Brand Logo
China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made
“Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a
new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the
new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient
Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the background
means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around.
The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts - vitality, harmony and
green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for
thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents
China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.
Three New Gorilla Families Habituated In Uganda
152 Gorilla Trekking Permits Now Available Per Day.
As interest in travel to Uganda continues to grow, Uganda Tourism
is pleased to announce the successful habituation of three gorilla
families in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. Following approximately two years of daily exposure
to humans, these gorillas have been incorporated into the country’s
gorilla trekking program, bringing the total number of families available
for trekking to 19 and the total number of gorilla trekking permits
available to 152 per day. This will help meet increased demand
for gorilla trekking permits that Uganda has seen over the past few
years following concentrated marketing efforts in North America and
Europe.
During the habituation process, groups of six to eight researchers
encounter the wild families on a daily basis, continuing until they
become comfortable around humans. The newly habituated gorilla
families are located in the Rushaga, Nkuringo, and Buhoma sections
of Bwindi. Gorilla trekking is managed fully by the Uganda Wildlife
Authority staff with a head ranger and experienced trackers leading
groups into the forest in search of the gorillas. Gorilla trekking permits
are $US 600 per person. For $US 15, participants can also hire
a porter from a local community to assist them during the trek.
Travelers seeking an even more immersive educational experience
can opt for the Gorilla Habituation Program ($US 1,500 per person)
which allows them to join conservationists studying gorilla families
undergoing the habituation process. Participants will locate gorilla
nests and take part in scientific monitoring before continuing on in
search of the gorillas. Since these gorillas are not fully accustomed
to human contact, they do not always come as close as habituated
gorillas, but participants will gain a more in-depth perspective on the
gorillas, their habitat, and their behavior in the wild, as the activity
lasts four hours from the time the nests are located.
www.visituganda.com
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

18
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Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

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C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d!

20
The Intrepid 2019 Not Hot Travel List: Asia Edition
Over-tourism in Asia has become a
major issue, leading to closures of
popular tourist sites, such as the
recently-announced indefinite closure of
Maya Bay beach by the government of
Thailand. Additionally, in the Philippines,
Boracay was sensationally shut down for six
months due to unsustainable tourism practices.
To combat this issue, small group
adventure tour operator Intrepid Travel has
put together its annual ‘Not Hot List’, focusing
on alternatives to travellers’ favorite
Asian destinations by uncovering lesserknown
and more sustainable destinations
for people to visit in 2019.
Intrepid Travel’s Regional Director for
North America, Darshika Jones, said the
second ‘Not Hot List’ was developed in
response to concerns about over-tourism,
with a focus on less-frequently visited destinations
to support the adventure travel
company’s ongoing commitment to
responsible tourism.
“Recently, we’ve seen a number of Asian
countries take a proactive approach to
combat over-tourism. North Americans are
increasingly concerned with over-tourism
and this is about encouraging them to step
away from the familiar to approach this
continent in the most ‘intrepid’ way possible.
Tourism can be a potent force for
good, and we believe the broader the travel
experience, the better. As North
Americans’ interest in traveling to Asia continues
to grow, the more dispersal to lesserknown
regions, the better,” said Jones.
The Intrepid Travel List
The Similan Islands are the new Maya Bay
With Maya Bay no longer a travel option as
of Summer 2018, travellers can still enjoy
the warm blue-green Andaman Sea, blind-

ing white sands and marvelous limestone
oddities when visiting the Similan Islands.
The islands offer a quiet scene, combining
rainforests and pristine beaches with a
touch of history, having been made a
UNESCO World Heritage site in 1982. Hit
by the 2004 tsunami, the island Khao Lak
has since recovered and welcomes visitors
to experience the destination.
Komodo is the new Ubud
Once considered the adventurous alternative
to Seminyak, Ubud has flourished in
popularity thanks to its haven of health and
healers. The day trip market means a lessened
contribution to Ubud’s economy and
puts pressure on local infrastructure.
Komodo is a viable alternative for those
travellers who are willing to sail from Bali
through the Indonesian archipelago. And
it’s a place where ancient tribes maintain
their traditions in deep rainforest valleys.
Travellers can snorkel coral reefs, walk
across volcanic black sand beaches and
watch for the legendary and fierce Komodo
dragons.
Bukhara is the new Angkor Wat
Central Asia is still as remote as can be
when it comes to Asian countries. The
‘Stans offer a Silk Road experience rich with
stories of migration, religion and trade.
Uzbekistan’s fifth largest city Bukhara is a
UNESCO world heritage site and the entire
old city center and has more than 5,000
years of human history. There are over 140
monuments and historical buildings to
explore, including Po-i-Kalyan Mosque
which, during its 1,300 years of history,
even survived assault from Genghis Khan.
Ladakh is the new Everest
While Nepal will always be a must-do for
active travellers wanting to challenge themselves,
Ladakh is rising in popularity for its
hiking and breathtaking scenery of the
Indian Himalayas. Travellers can break up
the hiking with river rafting, and visiting
remote villages, monasteries and religious
sites. To really appreciate the quiet natural
beauty of the Ladakh region, some travellers
stay in bustling Delhi before and after
their treks.
Naoshima is the new Osaka
Travellers have long been lured to the iconic
and future-focused cities of Japan like
Osaka. Intrepid Travel has noted a 31%
growth in bookings to Japan from North
Americans in 2018 compared to last year.
The company recommends travellers dis-
cover the southern islands or ‘lost Japan’ as
interest in the country continues to increase.
Naoshima Island has been transformed
from a sleepy fishing community to a world
class art destination with a variety of sleek
and stylish museums. Travellers can cycle
between galleries, outdoor sculptures and
modern architecture. The Southern Islands
also house impressive castles and Japan’s
oldest hot spring baths - Dogo Onsen.
Sumatra is the new Borneo
Sumatra is as exotic a destination as
Borneo, offering national parks and
endemic species. As the world’s sixth
largest island, Sumatra made headlines
earlier this year with the Mount Sinabung
volcano eruption. These geothermal activities
have created surreal landscapes such
as Gunung Leuser National Park, home to
one of the richest ecosystems in the world.
Sumatra is also where travellers have the
best chance of spotting wild orangutans in
Indonesia.
21
About Intrepid Travel
Intrepid Travel is a global adventure travel company
that has been taking travelers off the beaten
track to discover the world's most amazing places
for 29 years. The company offers more than 1,500
trips in more than 120 countries and on every continent.
Every trip is designed to truly experience
local culture - to meet local people, try local food,
take local transport and stay in local accommodation.
A world leader in responsible travel,
Intrepid’s award-winning tour leaders, small
group sizes and included activities mean they offer
travelers great value for money.
www.intrepidtravel.com/ca
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

Southern Tip of South Africa
An Escape & Haven
by Olivia Balsinger
Whenever I get that oh-so relatable
feeling that I need to escape, I think
the southern tip of South Africa. It is
here, on the tip of the African continent,
where I can count on experiencing something
completely different, no matter how many
times I’ve traveled there. Whether it's a brand
new attraction, a hidden gem I have yet to
discover, or even somewhere familiar and
nostalgic, the Cape Peninsula is a personal
haven, bustling with life, tranquility and
adventure.
Perhaps the most recognizable name on the
Cape Peninsula is the major city of Cape
Town. If you have never traveled to The
Mother City, I would suggest starting with the
veritable “must-do” attractions. My first suggestion
would be a visit to Robben Island; you
can catch a tour departing from the Victoria &
Alfred Waterfront — where Nelson Mandela
was held prisoner for 27 years, now a living
history museum. Of course, don’t miss this
chance to snap a quintessential selfie in front
of gorgeous views that feature prominently
the iconic Table Mountain landmark. Want to
explore the beautiful flattop mountain more
intimately? Take a rotating cable car to the its
top for breathtaking vistas of the surrounding
area during a leisurely day in the natural
landscape. For the more active types like
myself, I highly suggest rising before dawn
and trekking up Lion’s Head to watch the sunrise.
Cape Town is also home to some of the
world’s most fantastic beaches which are phenomenal
for people watching, soaking up the
strong Cape Town sun, or testing your balance
on a surf board on sandy Clifton Beach.
The weekends are reserved for trying the
many delicious local food and drink stands in
the city. I tend to favor the Old Biscuit Mill
Market in the colorful Woodstock neighborhood.
There you will find a feast for all the
senses: Jam bands play tunes to sway to as
you taste test favorites such as biltong and
olives from a nearby farm. For a less touristic
market experience, Oranjezicht City Market is
the place to mingle with locals and sample
foods from around the country. For more food
and drink splendor, the first Thursday of every
month in Cape Town is a time the city reserves
for locals and tourists alike to explore galleries,
restaurants, bars and shops until late in
the evening—all for free and open to the public.
There is also the famed Long Street—packed
with restaurants, bars, clubs, cafes, shops and
entirely interesting hotels. Speaking of hotels,
on this visit I stayed at The Grand Daddy
Boutique Hotel on Long Street, an ideal location
brilliant for absorbing the Mother City’s
vibrant energy day and night. Housed in a
heritage building that has been operating as
a boutique hotel for more than 120 years,
The Grand Daddy has some serious history to
go along with the bustling vibe. I love the use
of local design and bright colors throughout
the rooms, suites and public spaces in this
see page 24

landmark property. The restaurant of the
hotel, Thirty Ate Eatery, sits on the corner and
serves a unique mix of international dishes—
from schnitzels to the oh-so-Instagrammable
avocado toast. A bar on the roof is the best
place to lounge and sip a local beer while
watching the craze of Cape Town downtown
wiz by below. It is also on the roof that you will
also find the hotel’s most unique sleeping
experience: a rooftop trailer park. No joke:
take the elevator to the roof, looking out on
Long Street with Table Mountain beyond, and
you will see seven authentic Airstream trailers,
each slightly different in their decor but
designed to collectively reflect a South African
road-trip experience. I stayed in the
Winelands trailer and was so content to wake
up feeling like I was camping—in central
Cape Town!
Speaking of getting back to nature, if you are
in town long enough for a day trip, my first
recommendation would be the easy and scenic
two-hour drive to The Grootbos Private
Nature Reserve, down the southern tip. This
luxurious eco-reserve sandwiched between
the mountains and the sea is recognized as a
National Geographic Unique Lodges of the
World. The accommodation at Grootbos is
beautiful, consisting of modern suites with picture
worthy views across all of Walker Bay.
Set on 2,500 hectares of wilderness, it is
home to 100 endangered plant species and is
one of the top spots on the planet to see the
“Marine Big Five,” which is made up of
sharks, whales, dolphins, seals and penguins
(a unique perspective after a game drive at
Cheetah Plains in northern South Africa, spotting
the land equivalent “Big Five.”) I was fortunate
enough to have an unforgettable spotting
of humpback whales, as I flew above the
neighboring Atlantic Ocean in a chartered
1969 four-person airplane. We saw about six
mother whales, lazily floating with their curious
calves nearby. The accommodation at
Grootbos is beautiful, consisting of modern
suites with picture worthy views across all of
Walker Bay. There is much to do, but I especially
recommend a sunset walk along the
beach where you’ll get to explore rock caves,
which the Bushmen of the area once called
home. You can also take a romantic horseback
ride along the mountainous overlooks of
the beautiful waterscape. Perhaps my favorite
activity was the adrenaline-pumping fat bike
tour— a fat bike is an off-road bicycle with
oversized tires that are perfect for the pristine,
untouched dunes of the reserve.
The lodge is entirely tuned into preserving
conservation, culture and local community
and thus every decision made is reflective of
these principles. The Grootbos Foundation,
established by the lodge in 2003, conserves
the Cape Floral Kingdom and uplifts the communities
within through ecotourism, enterprise
development, sports development and
education. I purchased a tree through the
Foundation’s Future Trees Project (profits
given back to sustaining the community) and
planted it in amongst the other milkwoods,
the forest from which Grootbos itself is
named—the “Groot bos” means the big thicket
in Afrikaans. Milkwood trees can live for
hundreds of years and thus I know my physical
contribution will live to see how this
reserve and area continues to flourish.
A mélange of culture, colors, nature and
music, there really is nowhere quite like Cape
Town and its surrounding nature on the planet.
And this is precisely why I return time after
time, to briefly but fully escape.
www.capetown.travel

26
Sporty, Fashionable, and Functional, Helly Hansen has it All
We asked three of our writers to review the latest Helly Hanson
outerwear and here is their response.
Helly Hansen Longyear Parka
Here in Canada, winters are long, and on the
coldest days the temperature can easily drop
down to -20°C. Without a doubt, a good quality
winter jacket is essential to stay warm and
to enjoy outdoor activities. Choosing the right
winter jacket is not always simple but Helly
Hansen has made it easy with its Longyear
Parka. This jacket is excellent for our cold winters
while also being stylish, comfortable and
affordable. On top of shielding you from the
cold, this Parka is waterproof and windproof,
keeping you protected from any of the elements!
It is also very breathable, allowing your
body to stay cool both indoors and outdoors.
The jacket leaves plenty of room for layering
for those who enjoy wearing big knit sweaters
and hoodies. Its many pockets are well situated
and are extremely practical for carrying
items and keeping hands warm!
Being a mid-length jacket, it is suitable and
complementary for all heights while offering
warmth to your legs. This Parka is offered in a
multitude of rich colours, including red, khaki
green, navy blue or black. The zippers are of
great quality and very resistant and the double
zipper situated at the front of the jacket gives
you the option to sit more comfortably. The
zippers around the hand warmer pockets and
the adjustable hood with the faux fur allow
you to play around with your look. The knitted
wrist gaiters provide extra warmth and comfort
while adding an aesthetically pleasing
touch to the jacket. The large buttons on the
front and on the hand pockets of the Parka
are a beautiful finishing touch.
Helly Hansen Stellar Puffy Jacket
This morning I wore my jacket for the first time.
I felt wonderful. The material is soft, fluid and
a perfect fit. The sleeves are just right for
length which is not always the case in most
jackets. I especially like the fact that there is a
lining inside the sleeve with a stretch band
around the wrist. The hood fits perfectly and
does not come too far to the front, so it does
not interfere with the view when you turn your
head. It stays right in the middle like it should.
The pockets are a nice size. I like that they
have nice strong zippers, and when you step
out of the car you have a secure place to put
your keys and your gloves with no worries too
loose them. The zipper is not too bulky and is
a little more feminine. The ban that covers the
zipper snaps over very easily and is also easy
to undo.
When I wear the jacket I don't feel like being
puffy, but rather slim like in my winter coat.
Today the weather was not too cold but I have
a feeling that it will keep me warm under more
severe weather. I just love it!
Helly Hansen Helsinki 3 in 1
As soon as you try on the Helly Hansen
Helsinki 3 in 1 you immediately notice the
quality of the fabric. Breathability is a welcomed
feature for commuters. It is surprisingly
warm considering its light weight which also
makes sliding it on or off effortless. The
numerous pockets on both layers are well
crafted and conveniently located.
Walking in rainy weather isn't a burden thanks
to the hood and its water repelling material.
The easily removable shell makes worrying
about a change in temperature or season a
thing of the past. Overall, Helly Hansen managed
to make another fashionable business
casual jacket that's as practical as it is comfortable.
Whether it is a night on the town, a business
meeting, light actives or extreme sports, Helly
Hansen has you covered.
www.hellyhansen.com
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

28
A Jaunt Through Qatar with Qatar Airways
by Olivia Balsinger
In Qatar, the dichotomies are unparalleled:
old versus new, tradition versus
innovation, religion versus modernity.
From the world-class metropolis of Doha,
brimming with museums, nightlife and unrivaled
man-made architecture, to the natural
phenomena in the deserts, Qatar maintains
all aspects of its heritage while embracing the
new world.
Whether they are visiting as a stopover on a
Qatar Airways flight or staying as their final
destination, travelers will soon understand
that Qatar and its capital city of Doha is not
merely the “Next Dubai.” Until the discovery
of oil in 1939, Qatar cultivated its greatest
profit from pearl diving. But it has since
grown, flourished and made its own substantial
mark on the map.
And now there is no easier way to get there
than Qatar Airways, the multiple award-winning
airline with direct flights to Doha from
more than 150 destinations on every inhabited
continent. I was actually disappointed
when the flight attendant woke me up as we
were descending into Doha’s dawn on an
overnight from New York City. I was in a
Qsuite, the first of its kind in business class,
which provided me complete privacy, along
with ambient mood lighting and a fully flat
bed. The airline also provides business class
passengers an “a la carte” dining option,
making my constant hunger more manageable.
The stewardess went out of her way surprising
me with champagne before landing
in Doha and I had “Meet and Greet” service
both during arrival and departure. I actually
felt like royalty in the air.
However, once landing in Doha, I was equally
blown away. Indeed, Doha itself has
proven to be a major tourism draw. The city
is significantly smaller than both Dubai and
Abu Dhabi, which allows it to keep its slightly
provincial feel. While travelers can still find
modern high-end innovations, such as Doha
Festival City with an Angry Bird theme park,
Qatar stays true to its heritage in a number of
ways. I visited the Souq Waqif, one of the
most traditional in the Middle East, to find
pearl shops and nooks where men still gather
to chat. Whether eating traditional Qatari
food or getting whimsically discombobulated
in the labyrinth of people watching, the Souq
is not to miss.
Qatar is also equally modern as it is timeless.
The sheer decadence and luxury found within
Qatar’s hotels are reason enough to visit.
Take The Mondrian Doha, for example. The
property’s 270 rooms have views of the manmade
Pearl Island. Here I enjoyed a luxurious
detoxing massage and indulgent swim in
the penthouse pool. The hotel epitomizes
dual elegance and creativity, described as
Alice in Wonderland in real life – the whimsi-
cal architecture by famed Dutch designer
Marcel Wanders. Two Qatari hotspots are
found in The Mondrian, Morimoto Doha and
the bespoke Black Orchid nightclub.
Finally, adventure is everywhere in Qatar.
Few things spike adrenaline more than a
safari in a 4X4 through Qatar’s vast desert,
about an hour and a half ride from Doha city
center. The radio is blasting Arabian-French
techno music as a white Land Cruiser picks
up speed. The experienced guide smiles
slightly mischievously and revs the engine
prior to accelerating through this stunning
natural oasis as the sound of sand descending
down the slopes overwhelms. Q-Explorer
Tours is a professional tour operator that
handles individual and group guided
arrangements, catering to specific itinerary
desires and budgets. In addition to dune
bashing, the company provides many other
opportunities to explore Qatar’s culture, gastronomy
and natural beauty. For a country
small in size, Qatar certainly packs a punch.
www.qatarairways.com
www.visitqatar.qa
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

Here’s Why These 10 Adventures Go Beyond The Average Bucket List
by Exodus Travels
Whether you saw the Northern
Lights in Iceland long before it
became all the rage; to walking
the historic Camino de Santiago in Spain; or
taking in the sunrise at Angkor Wat, figuring
out where to head next can be a challenge.
Get away from the heavy traffic in well-trodden
destinations and instead, discover a
whole new world of adventures that truly go
beyond the beaten path. From traversing the
rainforests of Borneo, to discovering the complex
history of Macedonia, here are 10 experiences
by Exodus Travels that will fulfill the
seasoned traveler’s passion for discovery and
adventure.
1. Egypt: Nile Cruise
Egypt is making a comeback and if you want
to experience the beauty of ancient stories,
well-preserved monuments and an infinite
number of antiquities with few tourists around
- the time to go is now. Take in classic historical
sites such as the Luxor Temple and the
Karnak Temple Complex in the Valley of the
Kings, before a relaxing journey along the
Nile on a cruise boat from Luxor to discover
the spectacular Edfu and Kom Ombo temples.
Disembark and sail on a traditional
Felluca for awe-inspiring views of Aswan and
Cleopatra’s unfinished obelisk.
2. Peru: The Lost City of Choquequirao
Escape the crowds on this challenging,
unusual walk through Peru’s mountainous
region. This varied trek lead travelers up
steep paths through dense cloud forests, over
spectacular scenic passes and along ancient
Incan paths to Vilcabamba’s best kept secret;
the lost Incan city of Choquequirao. Machu
Picchu may draw the crowds, but
Choquequirao is larger, untouched and very
secluded. Much of the city is still unexcavated,
but the stonework that has stood the test of
time include ritual baths and temples dedicated
to the sun, moon and the earth spirit
3. Belize: Jungle & Coast Adventure
Belize takes its motto to heart; no shirt, no
shoes, no problem! This laid-back country
with a lively soul is filled with a complex history
and a vibrant local culture. Take a trip
down below to a 'Mayan underworld' cave
system, and swim in sapphire sinkholes. Put
on your snorkels to discover a myriad of
underwater life. On this trip, cross over into
Guatemala to visit two of the world's most
impressive Mayan ruins, Tikal and Uaxactun.
Visit the small laid back town of San Ignacio,
which was once only accessible by boat, to
get a glimpse of the diverse life and culture
that is specifically unique to Belize.
4. Malaysia: Trekking Borneo & Beyond
Borneo is home to some of the most diverse
and beautiful wildlife in the whole of South
East Asia. Start with a visit to majestic Mt
Kinabalu, before heading to the pristine
Danum Valley. A nature lover's paradise,
whose beauty and animals are equalled only
by Sarawak and the World Heritage Mulu
National Park with its immense cave system
and the oldest rainforest in the world. Come
face to face with Orang-utans at the Sepilok
Sanctuary, stay at a bamboo longhouse in
Sabah on a tea plantation, and finish the trip
relaxing at the beach for a chance to spot the
elusive Irrawaddy dolphins.

31
5. Uzbekistan: Uncover the Silk Road
This journey to the heart of Central Asia will
take you back to a time across the centuries.
Explore the city of Bukhara, which is home to
900 monuments, jewelled coloured domes
and fascinating Islamic architecture. One of
the city’s great landmarks is the Kalyan
minaret, known as the death tower, where
apparently many an unfaithful wife met a
dreadful end. Spend a night in the desert by
staying in a traditional Yurt camp and be
regaled stories of the local culture by Kazakh
nomads. Travel to Samarkand, the jewel of
the ancient and modern Silk Road, and still a
major trade centre of textiles, carpets and
works of art in this fascinating country.
6: Madagascar: Wildlife Paradise
The wildlife of Madagascar is one of the
island’s main attractions, and its chief superstar
is undoubtedly the lemur with over 70
species spread throughout. Quite a number
of the native animals cannot be found anywhere
else in the world, such as the
Grandidier Mongoose, Appert’s Greenbull
and the Crested Ibis. There’s a chance to see
the rare Indri, the largest lemur in
Andasibele, while in the cloud forest of
Ranomafana National Park, catch a glimpse
of the elusive rare Golden Bamboo and
Greater Bamboo Lemurs. Madagascar also
boasts some glorious coastlines, so relax on
their white powdery beaches, go snorkelling
or a take simple stroll on the sand.
7. Macedonia: Cultural Journey
A lesser-discovered cousin of the Balkans,
Macedonia has an intense history where
influences from the East and West collide. It is
famous for ancient civilisations, UNESCO
world heritage monasteries and the vibrant
cities of Sofia and Skopje. Ottomans,
Communists and Romans left their mark during
their occupation, which subsequently
imprinted many contrasts across the cultural
landscape of this country. This Baltic state is
also rich in nature with a multitude of national
parks, waterfalls, and famous wine
regions, and travelers will sample locally
grown Macedonian wine in the city of
Tikvesh. Foodies will also enjoy discovering
the coffee culture in Bitola, and the role it has
had on the city in the last few centuries.
8. Italy: Walking the Francigena Way
As trail tourism increases in popularity, The
Francigena Way should be next on your list to
conquer. This historical journey has been
walked by thousands of pilgrims, and was
once the route from Canterbury to Rome. It
begins in the beautiful city of Orvieto, before
walking through Tuscia Laziale, an agricultural
region of fields, olive groves and volcanic
lakes. Following the ancient Via Cassia, pass
through beautiful villages such as
Montefiascone, also known as the city of
Popes and for its fine wine. Many medieval
cities and monasteries fill this path, including
thick forests of oaks, abbey ruins, and secluded
communities. The journey ends in the
Eternal City of Rome.
9. West Greenland: Discover Disko Bay
Polar expeditions have grown in popularity
over the years, as people want to see glaciers
and icebergs in all their glory. This arctic
expedition takes a unique spin as it also journeys
into local Inuit communities living on the
western coast of Greenland. Travelers have
the opportunity to delve into the local culture
within the icy seas. No journey in Greenland
would be complete without a visit to the
impressive Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. There’s a vast amount of
Arctic wildlife on this route, and the best
whale watching can be done on Disko Island,
as its surrounding waters are home to the
humpback, fin, and minke whales.
10. Sudan: Desert Explorer
An underrated destination compared to other
African nations, Sudan is slowing gaining
momentum as an unchartered destination to
visit. It has vast red deserts and believe it or
not, a large number of ancient pyramids.
Built by the rulers of the Kushite kingdoms,
they are smaller compared to Egyptian pyramids
and are extremely well preserved. The
best part is, there are hardly any tourists
around so your chances of taking an unobstructed
photograph of a pyramid is extremely
high. Explore the Temple of Soleb, and
capture images of colonial style railway stations
still reminiscent of British architecture in
the middle of the desert. On top of that,
camp under the stars and visit Nubian villages
in this out of the way itinerary.
About Exodus Travels
Celebrating 44 years, leading adventure tour
operator Exodus has a vast range of adventure
and activity holidays across seven continents,
offering places as diverse and as exhilarating as
Kilimanjaro, Machu Picchu, the Ice Hotel and
Antarctica. Whether it is solo travelers, couples,
groups or families, Exodus offers an incredible
choice of trips for all ages and activity levels.
Operating in 100+ countries with 600+ tours,
Exodus insists on low impact tourism and contributing
to local communities.
For more information visit:
www.ExodusTravels.com
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

32
Going Further With
Turkish Airlines
Glowing reviews and exceptional
food are the order of the day for
this up-and-coming airline!
Part of the Star Alliance network, Turkish
airlines (THY) offers service to Canadians
from Toronto and Montreal, and connections
to destinations all over the world
from their hub in Istanbul.
Building on their international reputation,
THY has been climbing the ranks as a top
provider and doing very well in Canada.
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19
With 200 destinations, and adding new
ones at a rapid pace, THY welcome travellers
with smiles and a friendly hello,
though often with a charming accent!
To help them usher in this growth, THY
has a massive, world-class training center
in Istanbul with numerous simulators.
Pilots, flight attends and support staff are
all trained well and are ready to go after
their courses are done.
Their aircraft include A330s, A340s,
B777s, B737-800s and B727-800s, all
well maintained and laid-out with the customer
in mind. Each section is designed
with creature comforts taking front and
centre. The seats throughout the plane are
comfortable and the facilities are kept
impeccably clean and organized. Most
Business Class passengers can expect
either fully lie-flat seats or angled lie-flat
seats that brings relaxation to a higher
level.
Comfort Class is Turkish Airlines' premium
economy section is highlighted by slightly
larger seats configured in two-by-three-bytwo
rows, a large video screen and entertainment
system with an iPod outlet and a
laptop power outlet for each seat.
Even passengers traveling in Economy
Class can enjoy an above average trip, as
all passengers enjoy the famed THY complimentary
meal. Though multi-course
meals are provided in Business Class on
extended range flights, all passengers are
treated to the award winning food served
on board. Considering that THY deals
with one of the world’s biggest (maybe the
biggest) catering service and are partners
with Do & Co., there is no surprise in the
quality THY can offer!
www.turkishairlines.com

Contiki Launches Epic ‘7 Wonders of the World’ Adventure
The youth travel brand has put together the ultimate travel itinerary that spans seven continents to tick off your bucket list
Contiki, the original travel company
offering epic global adventures for
18 to 35-year old’s, has launched
an epic 82 day round the world trip, simply
called the ‘7 Wonders’ adventure, that takes
in all New7Wonders of the world – including
the Taj Mahal, the Great Wall of China
and Machu Picchu. The New7Wonders
resulted from a campaign launched in
2000 by philanthropist Bernard Weber to
select the wonders of the world from a list of
200 existing monuments, with the winners
announced on July 7th, 2007 in Lisbon.
With the launch of their latest adventure
dubbed, Israel & Jordan Uncovered –
Jordan being the home to the ancient site of
Petra – Contiki now offers trips for young
travellers to all seven of the wonders and as
such has been able to create the ultimate
itinerary around the world to witness each of
them.
Starting in Delhi on March 24th, 2019, the
adventure starts with the first wonder, the Taj
Mahal. The trip then moves on to China for
a visit to the Great Wall before heading to
Mexico to explore the Mayan ruins of
Chichen Itza. Travellers then move to South
America to visit Machu Picchu in Peru before
heading on to Brazil, home of the Christ the
Redeemer statue. Then to Petra in Jordan,
home to the giant metropolis of tombs,
monuments, and other elaborate religious
structures that are carved into stone cliffs.
The epic adventure ends in Italy on June
13th, 2019 to see the final wonder on the
list, the ancient Roman amphitheatre known
as the Colosseum.
The ‘7 Wonders’ adventure will see
Canadians visiting nine countries in depth,
exploring their local icons, traditions,
cuisines and cultures – on average allowing
12 days to explore the country where each
popular site is located. The trip is made up
of five of Contiki’s most popular itineraries,
plus its brand new ‘Israel & Jordan
Uncovered’ trip.
The New 7 Wonders travellers will visit
include:
Taj Mahal, India (on Contiki’s ‘Eternal
India’ trip from March 24-April 4, 2019):
The trip kick-starts with a 12-day trip
through India, where young Canadians will
visit the iconic Taj Mahal in Agra, the
world’s most recognized mausoleum. The
mausoleum, completed in 1653, was commissioned
to house the tomb of the then-
Emperor’s favourite wife. Bucket-list experiences
don’t end there. In India there’s also
tiger-spotting in Ranthambhore National
Park, rickshawing through the streets of
Jaipur, relaxing beachside in Goa and city
explorations of Udaipur and Mumbai.
Great Wall of China, China (on Contiki’s
‘China Adventure’ trip from April 7-18,
2019): Next stop is Beijing to visit the
Mutianyu section of the Great Wall of China
where travellers can explore the watchtowers
and fortresses, and gaze out across the

surrounding valley. Travellers spend 12 days
exploring China, venturing on to Xi’an,
Chengdu, Yangshuo and Shanghai where
they will feast on dumplings and Peking
duck, take part in cooking classes, hang out
with cuddly pandas and explore fascinating
museums and traditional markets.
Chichen Itza, Mexico (on Contiki’s ‘Yucatan
Highlights’ trip from April 21-26, 2019):
The most famous and well-preserved ruins
in Mayan history, Chichen Itza, is next on
the agenda. A tour with a Local Guide will
provoke questions about the Mayan calendar,
the positioning of the sun and the connections
between ruins around the country.
The six-day Mexican adventure continues
with a few days in sunny Cancun, the beautiful
city of Merida and the thriving metropolis
of Mexico City.
Machu Picchu, Peru (on Contiki’s ‘The
Explorer’ trip from April 27-May 17, 2019):
Look out over the Sacred Valley from the
lofty heights of Machu Picchu, the ancient
Incan citadel built in the 15th century. Jump
on a train from Aguas Calientes and enjoy
a guided tour of the site, taking in such
wonders as the Temple of the Three
Windows and Wayana Picchu (the peak you
see in every Machu Picchu ‘gram). Spend
the next few days exploring Cusco’s Spanish
colonial architecture, the capital Lima, plus
a special stay in an Amazonian eco lodge.
Christ the Redeemer, Brazil (on Contiki’s
‘The Explorer’ trip from April 27-May 17,
2019): Still on the same trip, you’ll spend
four nights in the buzzing Argentinian capital
of Buenos Aires. The perfect opportunity
for foodies to dive into the Argentine food
scene with steaks, pastries and ice cream on
the menu, before hopping the border at the
thunderous Iguassu falls and wrapping up
in Rio de Janeiro, home to none other than
the fifth Wonder on your journey, the statue
of Christ the Redeemer.
Petra, Jordan (on Contiki’s ‘Israel & Jordan’
trip from May 19-29, 2019): The ancient
city of Petra is one of the most famous
archaeological sites in the world. Explore
the giant metropolis of tombs, monuments,
and other religious structures which are
carved into stone cliffs. Spend 11 days in
Israel and Jordan with unforgettable experiences
like a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee,
a guided tour of Jerusalem, a hike in the
Red Canyon of Eliat, a 4x4 tour across the
Wadi Rum desert and a full day in the
buzzing city of Tel Aviv.
Colosseum, Rome (on Contiki’s ‘Simply
Italy’ trip from June 2-13, 2019): Finish this
epic 82-day journey with a 12-day Italian
vacation. Ticking off top destinations including
Florence, Venice, Sorrento, Milan, The
Riviera and of course, the capital of Rome to
see the final wonder on the list, the ancient
Roman amphitheatre, the Colosseum.
The adventure has a whopping 92 included
meals and in addition to seeing the seven
wonders, is packed full of included activities
for a travel experience with no regrets, such
as a visit to a panda sanctuary in Chengdu,
China, a canopy hike through the Amazon
jungle, a tango lesson in Buenos Aires,
Argentina, 4x4ing across Wadi Rum in
Jordan and a boat trip to the island of Capri
in Italy.
www.contiki.com
35
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

36
Tropical Tidbits
by Sue C Travel
6 Super All-Inclusive Stays in Montego Bay
AMResorts has been very busy offering more
excellent stay and play all-inclusive options
in Jamaica over the past few years. And now
there is something for all ages, styles, budgets,
and accommodation preferences. And
they are ALL all-inclusive! I first stayed at
their original Montego Bay Secrets St. James
and Secrets Wild Orchid - side-by-side
adult-only sister resorts on the same private
beach a few years ago. And I absolutely
adored them. But since then, they have
added sister resorts nearby on the same
great beach peninsula geared to be more
budget-friendly, for all-inclusive family fun.
Sunscape Cove is the higher end escape
while Sunscape Splash features a huge
waterpark, and they also share an excellent
kid’s club program so that parents can enjoy
some adult alone time by the sea. And now,
there is yet another choice of adult-only allinclusive
by AMResorts called Breathless next
door to the twin Secrets! This contemporary
and trendy new brand is aimed squarely at
millennials and the hip and young at heart.
Everything is very modern, sexy, and hightech,
especially in your room where
absolutely everything is controlled by a
tablet. Daily foam parties in the pool with
hot DJ’s and a cool concept they call "Silent
Disco” add to the intrigue. Breathless also
has access to all the additional dining and
entertainment at neighbouring Secrets. But,
if you’re seeking an even higher-level of
adult-only all-inclusive, now there’s the new
boutique luxury brand Zoëtry Montego Bay
on its own beach, a few miles away. There
the focus is on seriously personal pampering,
elevated accommodations, and health
and wellness offerings. There is dining on
site, but guests can also sample all the dining
options at the twin Secrets, though transportation
is not included.
For all AMResorts in the Montego Bay
region, visit:
www.amresorts.com/destination/jamaica
Quebecers Flock to Club Med Turkoise
And Club Med Comes to Quebec!
I’d been to Providenciales in Turks and
Caicos many times (locals call it “Provo”) and
I was well aware that there were scads of
expat Canadians living there, in fact, they
even have a hockey league! And I knew it
was very popular for sun-seeking canucks on
holiday, too. I mean what’s not to love? The
endless pristine miles of soft white sand and
aqua surf that has Grace Bay Beach often
cited as one of the best beaches in the world
is quite simply, postcard perfect. But this past
trip to Club Med Turkoise – also my very first
visit to a Club Med brand resort- I noticed an
interesting phenomenon: almost everyone
spoke French! Quebecois French! I live in
Montreal, so it was like being at home- if only
we had a great beach and no snow!
Apparently, many of the staff are from
Quebec, and word of mouth must have
spread that this place was the ideal gathering
spot for French Canadians. Even the name
“Turkoise” is pronounced with French

37
savoire-faire flair there. Recently redesigned
and totally refreshed, this was the very first
resort on Provo, and it was their presence that
actually led to the building of the airport. It’s
also one of Club Med’s few adult-only
resorts. I really enjoyed the friendly laid-back
vibe and the colourful bungalow village
accommodations are comfortable and
cheery. The entertainment is also very well
done- their “GO”s ( Gracious Organizers)
are really on the ball, and the free trapeze
lessons also get high marks from the guests.
And now it turns out that Club Med really
likes Quebecers, too. In fact, they are slated
to build a brand-new all-inclusive Club Med
ski resort in Charlevoix to open in 2020- the
first of its kind in Canada.
For more visit:
www.clubmed.ca/l/quebec-charlevoix
For more on Club Med Turkoise, visit:
www.clubmed.ca/r/Turkoise
Best Restroom in America Award?
Now you might wonder what is so “tropical”
about this tidbit, but there IS an
important sea, nature and marine life connection.
Sanibel Island – a tropical hotspot
in southern Florida is revered by ‘shellers’
for seashell collecting, but the island is
also known for its vast nature preserves.
The most famous is the 5,200-acre J.N.
“Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge -
home to hundreds of species of seabirds,
and even endangered giant manatees.
Which brings me to the award. The
refuge’s “Learning Lavatories” are so
unique that they garnered “America’s Best
Restroom®” award in the nationwide 2018
contest. Excellence in cleanliness, visual
appeal, innovation, functionality, and
unique design elements were the requirements,
but what really set these public
washrooms apart is that they double as
delightful interactive teaching facilities. Toni
Westland, “Ding” Darling supervisory
refuge ranger says, “I guarantee, there’s
no other restrooms like these in the world
that are so devoted to wildlife conservation
and environmental awareness.” There’s
lots to learn at every turn, and it’s such a
creative way to enlighten folks on the
importance of protecting our natural
resources. And having a captive audience
has its advantages, so they came up with
this motto, “We turn a nature call into a
nature enthrall!”.
Find out more at:
www.bestrestrooms18.com and
www.dingdarlingsociety.org
Easier Access Between the ABC’s
Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao- a terrific trio
of Dutch Caribbean islands all within a
stone's throw from each other - are delighted
to welcome a new way to island-hop
between them. As of January 2019,
Bonaire-based EZAir will join the regional
flight options with 6 to 7 roundtrips between
Curacao and Bonaire per week, and one
daily direct flight between Bonaire and
Aruba. Since there are no ferries between
the ABCs, additional airlift choices and fares
beyond the current carriers are very welcome
indeed.
Visit: www.flyezair.net
Anguilla’s Most Iconic Resort Reopens
I’m happy to report that the lovely little
island of Anguilla has bounced back big
time since it was hit with Hurricane Irma in
2016, but it would not be the same legendry
luxury destination without their most gorgeous,
splurge-worthy property, the 5-star
“Cuisinart Golf Resort & Spa”. (Yes, owned
by the same folks who brought us the
blenders!) It had been closed since the
storm, but now, has finally reopened with all
kinds of fresh, new improvements. Though I
can’t imagine it could be any better than it
was, apparently, it is.
Visit: www.cuisinartresort.com
Award-winning travel journalist
Sue Campbell is based in Montreal but makes it
her business to be on top of everything cool, hot,
and new under the sun throughout the
Caribbean and Latin America.
World Traveler welcomes her as a
regular columnist.
Follow her on
Instagram and Twitter @suectravel
Envisionworks, Inc
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

38
A for Athens
WT Photo Library
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
In going through the alphabet, if you had
to pick a place that has played a vital role
in western civilisation, first and foremost
would be “A” for Athens.
On my third trip to Athens in as many
decades, I would find that Athens has blossomed
into a truly beautiful and attractive cosmopolitan
destination. In every direction, it
was now a clean, organised and welcoming
with wonderful restaurants, hotels, shopping
districts and plenty of attraction for just about
every taste.
Athens
What isn’t there to do in Athens!
The capital of Greece has been in existence
for more than 3500 years and was the heart
of the powerful Ancient Grecian civilization
and empire. The city is visited by thousands of
visitors every year, some drawn by the 5thcentury
BC landmarks, including the
Acropolis, while others want to see the more
modern side.
The city is the engine for the country economically
and as a beacon for the resurgence of
this Mediterranean hub. And it was ripe for
rediscovery!
The Acropolis and museum
The Acropolis is Greece’s top attraction, it is
eternal. Nothing has changed, everything has
changed. From my first trip there in the 80’s,
the site looks similar, but what has changed
are the crowds that are still found looking
around in amazement and awe. It was not
always so, I do remember having the site to

myself and wondering around freely without
the masses, but that is how it goes when a site
has this much of a link to antiquity. Also new
is the museum that houses some of the countries
most valued treasures. So daunting is this
museum that it would days to get through it
all.
The Acropolis has had an associated museum
since1886, with the latest incarnation completed
in 2007. It is truly impressive, with a
whopping exhibition space of over 14,000
square meters, ten times more than that of the
old museum on the Hill of the Acropolis.
Fascinating artwork, equipment, items, clothing
and more are showcased here. Truly a trip
into the past.
The National Archaeological Museum
I had been impressed before with museums,
but this one was beyond imagination. There
are sections that cover all the eras that have
weaved the history of Greece into a tapestry
stretching back through time.
Mycenae, Agamemnon, Plato, and so much
more, it even has a small Egyptian section –
the variety was outstanding. It is the largest
archaeological museum in Greece, and a
home for ancient Greek art. It was founded at
the end of the 19th century and has antiquities
from all over Greece with displays of historical,
cultural and artistic importance.
Amazing Food
One will never go hungry in Greece, and so it
goes that Athens has some of the best restaurants
in the country with something for every
taste and palate. Weather it was Greek specialties,
street foods or international cuisine, I
would find myself feasting like a king; so
much so that I would probably put on lots of
weigh if my trip was any longer. Fresh sea
food is always available and so were wonderful
Greek salads, local wines, traditional and
artisanal beers, and of course, the Ouzo was
always a great way to celebrate the night.
Olympics
The ancient Olympic Games were originally a
festival for the ancient god Zeus that grew into
competitive events like marathons, javelin
throwing, and wrestling matches were added.
The Greek games had their roots in religion
and the athletic competition was tied to worship
of the gods. The legacy of the ancient
games can be found in museums and out in
the city, the buildings and stadiums build for
the 2004 Summer Olympic Games.
The Plaka
The Plaka district is full of bars, restaurants,
boutiques, souvenir shops and has a lively
buzz. Visited by both the locals and tourists, it
has a very Greek island feel, even though it is
right in the city center. With its narrow cobblestone
streets, architecture, and tons of people
around, visitors are taken to an exotic place
that offers a glimpse of modern and traditional
Athens at the same time.
Monastiraki flea market
During the week, this area houses an assortment
of clothing and jewelry stores dotted with
some pretty interesting boutiques, especially if
you like vintage records and rare CDs or T-
shirts.
On Sundays, it turns into a giant garage sale,
where people seem to come from everywhere
to lay out their blankets and sell all sorts of
stuff. Monastiraki Square is a lively square in
Athens at all times and at night it is filled with
people of all ages and many street venders
enjoying the warm evenings in this magical,
ancient city.
A+ for Athens
One visit is never enough and to get the best
of this worldly city, one must give Athens time
to live its long history as well as the new vibe
in the arts, fashion and wonderful gastronomy.
www.visitgreece.gr
The Grand Dame
My stay at the Grand Bretagne hotel
would be nothing short of spectacular.
This is, after all, the choice hotel for
diplomats, executives, celebrities and
just about anyone of major importance
that would frequent Athens.
The location is in the dead centre of the
city directly adjacent to the Greek
Parliament and close by to the major
streets, markets and attractions. To my
good fortune, and in a full hotel, I was
on the top floor with a magnificent
view of the surrounding hills. The parliament
was so close that on many
occasions I would watch the changing
of the guard ceremony from my balcony.
Besides the location, this Grand Dame
had it all. Exceptional, well decorated
rooms and suites with marble washrooms,
wonderful restaurants and bars,
indoor and outdoor pools, spa and
wellness center and the list goes on.
With all this, three things really stood
out for me: the physical structure itself
was exceptional on both the outside
and inside, where I could not stop looking
at the wonderful décor and details
of the lobby. The service by the staff
was friendly and world class and finally,
the piece de resistance was the roof
top restaurant that provided panoramic
views of the whole of Athens, and its
iconic Acropolis. Breakfasts were made
a highlight of my day!
www.grandebretagne.gr
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

40
WT Photo Library
A Northern Ireland Walking Adventure from Londonderry to Belfast
Article and photography by Cherie DeLory
Festivals are a good place to kick up
your heels and kick off a grand travelling
adven-ture. This was true for
my debut visit to Northern Ireland last July to
attend Ireland’s largest maritime festival, the
annual Foyle Maritime Festival in Derry-
Londonderry. In anticipation of my trip I was
imagining myself draped in a smart Irish
Fishermans sweat-er made of Aran wool in
celebration of the occasion. After all, Derry-
Londonderry was a host stopover port for the
biennial Clipper Round the World Yacht Race
2017/’18, which coincided with the festival.
I wanted to look my best while the handsome
sailors were on shore leave.
Striking 70-foot yachts sailed into the Foyle
Port in the final leg from New York, before
heading to the finish line in Liverpool,
England. I got to meet some of the sailors,
climb on board for a tour of their close quarters,
and soak up the excitement of the festival,
which ended with the fanfare of a
parade of sail and fireworks to send off the
crews.
The Walled city
No visit is complete to this pretty city on a hill
without “wandering the walls”. Derry-
Londonderry has a small town air, but is the
second largest city in Northern Ireland next
to its capital, Belfast. It’s the only completely
intact walled city in Ireland, totalling about a
mile of atmospheric wall with vistas of the
city beyond the heritage stone. I took a his-
torical tour with Martin McCrossan Walled
City Walking Tour. You could say it’s a city
with a wee bit of an identity crisis. Some call
it Derry, others say Londonderry.
Derry-Londonderry, or Derry as originally
named, is the first planned city in Ireland,
built between 1613 and 1619. The walls
were built to protect the locals from settlers
arriving from England and Scotland, and
would later figure in the Great Siege of
1689. During the planning phase was when
London was added to the name to reflect the
Queen's influence. Derry in year 546 was a
monastic settlement founded by the Irish
monk, Saint Columba, who to this day is one
of three patron saints of Ireland. St.
Columb's Cathedral, circa 1633, is the old-

est building in Derry-Londonderry and home
to the original keys of the city gates, and has
the oldest peal bells in Europe. I wish I’d
heard them ring.
I stayed at the City Centre Hotel. Through my
picture window I could almost reach out and
touch the city’s architectural landmark, the
Peace Bridge. The cycle and foot bridge connecting
the Cityside and Walled City to the
Waterside, over the River Foyle, opened in
2011. On the Waterside of the bridge is
Ebrington Square, a former army barracks
undergoing an ambitious redevelopment
project, which includes a hotel and maritime
museum currently under construction on listed
buildings.
Maritime Heritage
This city’s maritime heritage cannot be
underestimated. During World War II the city
played a critical role as a navy base because
of its large port that could accommodate up
to 130 ships, and its proximity to the North
Atlantic. But most importantly, Derry-
Londonderry is known worldwide for the surrender
of the German U-boat submarines.
While exploring Ebrington Square I enjoyed
dinner and an eclectic craft brew flight at
Walled City Brewery, the only restaurant in
Ireland with a brewery, and it won Best Gastropub
in Ireland 2017. Take time to explore
the walking and cycling trails along the River
Foyle, St. Columb’s Park and Heritage
Trail, and get on the River Foyle for a canoe
paddle with Loughs Agency, a marine and
fisheries outfitter.
History told in ornate stained glass windows
is a must see at the Guild Hall in the town
square. It’s located at the foot of Shipquay
Street, the town’s steepest street. It was even
once used as a waterslide for a charity event.
Browse in Craft Village, a charming cul-desac
off of Shipquay with pastry shops, a vintage
books emporium and artisan gift shops.
The Diamond War Memorial, honouring the
city’s fallen WW1 soldiers, stands at the top
of the street where the four walled city gates
can be seen from one vantage point. I couldn’t
help but notice a hauntingly beautiful
vacant Baroque style building which, up until
2016 when it closed its doors, was the
world’s oldest independent de-partment
store. Austins was open for business in 1830.
Seafood trail
During the Foyle Maritime Festival several
restaurants participate in the Seafood Trail,
making this the ideal time to indulge in fresh
Irish catch of the day. I had a delicious
smoked salmon main with a green pea
puree at Thompsons Restaurant in the Derry
City Hotel. At Browns in Town, I ordered an
Irish staple of champs, buttery mashed potatoes
seasoned with garlic and scallions,
and hake with a green pea puree. The Beech
Hill Hotel wins points for best setting. I
watched a rabbit hop about in the garden
while I enjoyed a delicious duck dish, with
carrot and fennel soup.
The Bishop’s Gate Hotel (circa 1899) in the
walled city has been elegantly restored, leaving
intact Edwardian architectural nuggets
such as the exquisite oak revolving door at
the entrance. Service and dining in the
restaurant is impeccable, making for a
memo-rable last impression before heading
north east to the Causeway Coast.
One of travel documentarian Michael Palin’s
recommendations for Great Railway Journeys
of the World is the route from Derry-
Londonderry to Colleraine. Given that
there’s something about train travel that’s
irresistible to me, I booked my ticket on the
Translink and was on my way to the seaside
resort town of Portrush, earmarked as host
town of next summer’s 2019 Open
Championship. The Royal Portrush Golf
Club’s Dunluce Links is considered one of
the best in the world.
Barefoot in Bushmills
I stayed at the Royal Court Hotel on the outskirts
of town, with dreamy views of the
ocean. Without a car, I could take a fiveminute
taxi, bus, or a 45-minute stroll into
town along Whiterocks Beach, which was the
beginning of a memorable experience
exploring the Causeway Coast.
I purchased a Translink day pass bus ticket
and Dunluce Castle was my first stop. You
can walk amidst the atmospheric ruins, situ-
ated high on a cliff overlooking the
sea. I took a winding staircase up one
of the towers to a lookout and was so caught
up in the maze of masonry that I missed my
bus. As I was waiting for the next bus a
women’s walking group persuaded me to
join them part way. They assured me that I
would be able to continue my journey to
Giant’s Causeway on foot. I’m an active person
and avid cyclist, so this was a challenge
I was prepared to take on. I was a tad weary
upon arri-val to the Giant’s Causeway
Visitor’s Centre about three hours on, but
thrilled with my adventure. I had a unique
perspective, walking barefoot along the
shoreline, a picnic lunch, ascending nature
trails alongside the cliff’s edge, stopping to
stare at cows graz-ing in the field; one that
very few can say they’ve experienced, judging
by the bus loads of tourists.
Next stop was a hop, skip and a swig to the
oldest whiskey distillery in the world, Old
Bushmills Distillery. (Ask about the Giant’s
Causeway and Bushmills Heritage Railway
as a travel option.) Then to Portrush for dinner
and some entertaining summer stock
theatre at the Portrush Town Hall. Needless
to say, I slept well.
A day in Belfast
41
The next day I was off to Belfast via the train
for my final day in Northern Ireland. I
checked in at the newly opened Grand
Central Hotel Belfast, where panoramic
views of the city surrounded by the Belfast
Hills beyond can be viewed from the 23rd
floor Ob-servatory Lounge. I walked everywhere,
to Titanic Belfast across town, on the
site of the shipyard where the RMS Titanic
was built, and to the Botanic Gardens and
Ulster Museum in the Queen’s Quarter near
Queen’s University. Near City Hall, hidden
in the basement of a heritage row house, I
satisfied my indulgence for superior chocolate
with a visit to Co Couture, an award winning
small-batch chocolatier that uses
organic cacao sourced from Madagascar. I
needed more than a day to enjoy this beautiful
city. So many reasons to return to
Northern Ireland.
www.discovernorthernireland.com
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

Atlantic Arctic Indian Pacific Southern Ocean
C r u i s i n g with
W O R L D
Traveler
C RUISING
Cruise News - pages 44 - 45
This Photo: Viking Sky
SECTION
On Top of the World with Viking, Part 2 - page 48
Cruising the Yangtze from Chongqing to the Three Gorges - page 50
Nuremberg to Vienna with AmaSonata - page 52
Adriatic Aegean Mediterranean Caribbean Baltic Black South-China Sea
Danube Main Mekong Moselle Nile Rhine Rhône Saône Seine Yangtze
Come With Us & Sail The World!

44
AmaWaterways Avalon Azamara Carnival Celebrit
C r u i s e N e w s
Ritz-Carlton Yacht Name Revealed
The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection announced the name of their inaugural yacht on
December 5th, 2018 at the International Luxury Travel Market in Cannes, France. The
first yacht will be named Azora, meaning “sky blue”, a word of Spanish origin derived
from “azure” and the
color “azul”. Evoking
the beauty of the sky
and the ocean,
Azora is a name that
encourages guests to
immerse themselves
in the color of travel
and experience the
world with The Ritz-
Carlton Yacht
Collection.
www.ritzcarltonyachtcollection.com
Adventure Canada Setting
Sail Back to Ireland
The Ireland Circumnavigation begins in
Dublin on June 9, 2019, when guests will
board Adventure Canada’s 198 passenger
ship, Ocean Endeavour, to sail
around Ireland and experience its friendly
folk, rolling countryside, charming villages,
and rugged seascapes.
Expedition highlights include sailing past the picturesque Skellig Islands, exploring
the beautiful Dingle Peninsula, visiting the mysterious and unique Giant’s Causeway
and the huge Rock of Cashel. The expedition will also include the beautiful Ring of
Kerry, as well as castles, cathedrals, national parks, Irish pubs, vibrant cities and villages,
and the dramatic Cliffs of Moher. Guests will also visit Tory Island - a remote
island inhabited by a small Gaelic community of fewer than 200 people with their
own king. www.adventurecanada.com
Cunard Launches New Holistic Spa Concept
Luxury cruise line Cunard announces Mareel Wellness & Beauty: a new spa conceptdeveloped
in partnership with wellness innovator Canyon Ranch, to be rolled out
across its fleet. Mareel will launch exclusively on board the newly-refurbished Queen
Elizabeth this December 2018, closely followed by Queen Victoria and on flagship
liner Queen Mary 2 in November 2020.
Mareel, meaning phosphorescence of
the ocean, is taken from the ancient
Norse language and speaks to the illuminating
light and healing energy of
the sea. The new brand will offer a
holistic approach with an extended spa
treatment menu of mineral-rich seawater
and marine-based experiences as
well as a redesign of the entire spa
facility.
www.cunard.com
Amawaterways Unveils 2020
Preview Brochure with New
River Cruise Offerings
The river cruise industry continues to
experience rapid growth and increased
bookings, and at the forefront of that is
industry leader AmaWaterways. The
recent release of the company’s 2020
preview brochure introduces new land
extensions and itineraries on its awardwinning
ships – including the revolutionary
AmaMagna.
Chartering New Waters
Only a year after her launch, AmaMagna
will cruise new waters and continue to elevate
the luxury of river cruising, expanding
her presence to the lower Danube on
four select departures. The innovative ship
will cruise the seven-night Gems of
Southeast Europe itinerary between
Budapest, Hungary and Giurgiu, Romania
through Hungary, Croatia, Serbia,
Bulgaria and Romania with stops at fascinating
sites such as the ethereal
Belogradchik Rocks and the UNESCOdesignated
Rock-Hewn Churches of
Ivanovo.
AmaMagna will also sail the popular 14-
night Grand Danube Cruise, between
Vilshofen, Germany and Giurgui,
Romania traveling to seven countries and
offering scenic views through the Iron
Gates between Serbia and Romania.
Measuring twice the width of a traditional
European river cruise ship, the luxurious
AmaMagna allows for added personal
space in the large suites (the majority 355
sq. ft. or larger); four tempting dining
venues, including the Al Fresco
Restaurant, Jimmy’s Wine Bar Restaurant,
The Chef’s Table Restaurant and Main
Restaurant; and new enticing amenities,
such as the expansive Zen Wellness Studio
and the innovative Water Sports Platform
complete with the Sundowner vessel for
complimentary tours of the Danube.
www.amawaterways.com
Royal-Caribbean Scenic Seabourn SeaDream Si

y Costa Crystal Cunard Disney Holland America
45
Silversea Spotlights the Authentic Beauty of the Far East with a
Range of Remarkable Expedition Voyages
Part of its industry-leading ultra-luxury expedition offering, Silversea Expeditions continues
to take guests closer to the authentic beauty of the Far East with a number of remarkable
itineraries.The following itinerary sample has been handpicked to illustrate the richness of
Silversea Expeditions’ offering in the Far East in 2019:
The Pacific Ring of Fire and Japan
Silver Explorer departs April 29, 2019, on a 13-day cruise from Apra, Guam, to Kobe, Japan. Highlights of this nature-laden voyage include
active volcanoes, tranquil gardens and possible sightings of dolphins, whales, green sea turtles, colourful Mariana fruit doves and much
more.
Land of the Rising Sun
As graceful as a tea ceremony and as modern as a bullet train, Japan and South Korea are treasure troves of soaring castles, ancient temples
and cutting-edge architecture that beckon to be explored. Silver Explorer answers the call with this 9-day cruise from Kobe to Busan,
departing May 12, 2019.
Semi-Circumnavigation of Sumatra and Java
On March 5, 2019, Silver Discoverer departs Yangon for Bali on a 15-day expedition. On this exciting semi-circumnavigation of Sumatra
and Java, guests will have the chance to climb an active volcano, meet indigenous peoples, and sample local food.
A Kaleidoscope of Culture and Nature in the Banda and Arafura Seas
This Bali to Darwin expedition aboard Silver Discoverer departs March 20, 2019. Guests will be treated to a symphony of unforgettable
sights and experiences, including fascinating encounters with local cultures, an insight into intriguing local history, and the chance to witness
breath-taking scenery and possible wildlife sightings of the iconic dragons of Komodo.
Indonesia by Land and Sea
Sailing June 24, 2019, from Darwin to Bali, Silver Discoverer will spend 15 days exploring a string of Indonesian pearls. Guests will have
a chance to snorkel in the Coral Triangle, marvel at the underwater wonders of Anano Island, and discover the unique customs of the
Torajan people. Another highlight is a visit to Tanjung Puting National Park and Camp Leakey to learn of Dr. Biruté Galdikas' ground-breaking
work with orangutans, as well as possible up-close encounters with these intelligent and threatened animals.
www.silversea.com
Viking to Sail New ‘Greek Odyssey’ Itinerary
Viking has recently announced a new 11-day ocean cruise itinerary, Greek Odyssey, that will allow
guests to explore the ancient empires of antiquity of the Aegean Sea during the quiet season.
Sailing roundtrip from Athens starting in January 2021, the new itinerary features three new ports
of call for Viking, including Volos, Thessaloníki and Nafpilo in Greece, as well as a stop in Ephesus,
marking the company’s return to Turkey.
Sailing on Viking’s award-winning 930-guest all-veranda Viking Sea, guests will journey through
several millennia of culture and history, from Athens, known as the “birthplace of democracy,” to
the island of Crete, home to the mysterious Minoan civilization. Highlights of the new Greek
Odyssey itinerary include:
•Ephesus (Kuşadasi), Turkey: One of the best-preserved cities of antiquity in the world, guests can visit the remains of the Byzantine Basilica
of St. John, take in sights such as the massive Great Theater and the magnificent Library of Celsus.
•Volos, Greece: Now a modern, cosmopolitan port city, this region was once thought of as the playground of the gods. Guests can experience
the stunning scenery of Meteora, where medieval monasteries stand precariously on hilltops, or explore the ancient religious center
of Dion, located on the foothills of Mt. Olympus.
•Thessaloniki, Greece: Greece’s second-largest city offers an exhilarating mix of ancient culture and modern life. While in port, guests
can walk the vibrant waterfront promenade with its many cafés and restaurants, or venture outside the city to the remains of the ancient
Macedonian kingdom of Alexander the Great.
•Nafpilo, Greece: Set between breathtaking mountains and the Bay of Argos, Nafpilo is one of Greece’s most beautiful and romantic port
cities. Guests can discover the charms of its Venetian homes and Byzantine churches, take a drive to Palamidi, an imposing fortress towering
over the city, or travel to the nearby Peloponnese peninsula, an ancient area rich in history.
•Scenic cruising: Mt. Athos: During the one sea day on this itinerary, guests will sail past the majestic slopes of Mt. Athos, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site and the spiritual capital of Orthodox Christianity. Called the “Holy Mountain,” the peninsula’s soaring peaks are home
to 20 monasteries whose monks work to preserve and catalogue a vast collection of liturgical works and art.
www.vikingcruises.com
Hurtigruten MSC Norwegian Oceania Ponant Princess Regent
versea Star-Clippers Uniworld Viking Windstar

On Top of the World with Viking
Part II: We Set Sail
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
extravagant - private planes to view the surrounding
landscape.
Beautiful Bergen
Jet-lag was not enough to deter us from discovering
this little Norwegian jewel. As
Norway’s second largest city, Bergen is a popular
tourist destination and there are many
reasons why. It is charming, clean, and friendly,
and has some of the best looking historical
architecture we would see on our cruise
through the north. The iconic view of the historic
Bryggen wharf is a site to behold. For
years I have seen colorful pictures of this and
finally had the chance to visit this district and
its many small alleyways.
Geiranger and the Fjords
Our first day and our first port of call would be
a highlight of our trip, and getting to
Geiranger was as fantastic as being there. We
would pass through what would be the best
Fjords of our cruise and on this foggy day the
landscape was perfectly mysterious with towering
cliffs and breathtaking waterfalls.
In this part two of our wonderful Viking
cruise, we set sail. Heading straight north
from our base in Bergen, we hugged the
coast to the European lands-end in
Honningsvåg, Norway. From this land of the
midnight sun we navigate our way south to the
mystical land known as the Shetland and
Orkney Islands just before we end our journey
in London.
This memorable cruise would be fascinating,
educational, relaxing and with calm seas,
totally enjoyable thanks to the great efforts of
the Viking management and crew. It is a cruise
where everything works as it should. The
Viking Sea was beautiful, luxurious and comfortable,
and the service was impeccable.
On land, we would participate in all the Viking
shore excursions. There was one included in
every port of call and they were well planned,
easy going, lots of fun and a great way to
meet other like-minded Viking guests to say
the least.
Knowledgeable local guides brought the different
destinations to life and you can be sure
that they covered the most important attractions
and topics. So easy were these outings
that the only stress was keeping an eye on time
and getting to the luxury coaches for scheduled
departures.
A note about booking these optional excursions:
some of the more popular tours fill up
fast and priority is given to guests with a category
of Deluxe Veranda suite or higher. It is for
this reason that once you are confirmed as a
guest, reservations for tours should be done
right away on their well-designed and user
friendly login guest website.
Besides the included excursions, Viking offered
a host of optional outings. At a small cost,
guests had at their disposal the best of the best
at the tip of their fingers including historical
tours, gastronomical tours, cultural encounters
with locals, fishing trips, biking and hiking
through mountains, right up to the most
Here we opted for an extra excursion that
included an adventure that brought us up
through snaking roads to a farm on a plateau.
Getting there was made easier with the aid of
electronic bicycles and although you still had
to make a big effort, it was nothing compared
to a regular bike. Geiranger is an outdoors
persons dream, there were numerous hiking
trails, or kayaking the fjords options and anywhere
you go it was like being in a postcard.
Molde
In Molde we would have yet another amazing
day, this time we would kayak the sea with a
professional outdoorsman. That is right, our
young guide was actually studying to be just
that, going to school and soon to graduate
which made me wonder but then again this is
Norway and most of its citizens have a close
connection to the land.
Our Kayaking was in contrast to our visit to a
newly constructed heritage village. Wooden
buildings were brought in from numerous
Norwegian places and with the addition of
craftsmen from the many ages and characters
in period clothing, this was a great look at how
the people lived and survived in what could be
a harsh land.
Photo: Viking

Tromso and Lofoten
In Tromso and Lofoten we would enjoy quite
village life and we thoroughly enjoyed the
relaxed and unhurried ways of the locals. The
scenery, as always, was picture perfect. This
was evident in the hills, harbors and the beautiful
beaches.
Much of the economic activity here is based on
the sea: in ocean fishing, fish farming, sea
transport and know to a smaller degree,
tourism from the Norwegians themselves and
from foreigners.
NordCapp
The name says it all; this is the northern most
land point in Europe. It is a cold, barren land
but somehow there is life here, as in the hills
we would see many herds of reindeer. On this
leg we would drive from the harbor in
Honningsvåg to the welcome center of Nord
Capp and along the way we would meet up
with the Sami, a group of hardy people that
inhabit the furthest parts of Norway, Sweden
and Finland. The Sami are nomadic and on
his day they would bring their reindeer, set up
tents and demonstrate their ways of life.
Norcapp hall, or Nordkapphallen, was initially
built in 1959, and parts of the building were
placed inside the mountain plateau, including
the cinema and a huge grotto. Today, the
building center is able to accommodate several
thousand guests. NordCapp is also home to
a large globe that marks that visitors are at the
northernmost tip of the European continental
mainland.
The Scottish Islands
Next, we visited a couple of special islands.
Shetland, also called the Shetland Islands, lies
168 km from the Scottish mainland. The capital,
Lerwick, bears evidence of human settlement
dating back 3,000 years, but was officially
founded in the 17th century as a herring
and white fish seaport to trade with the Dutch
fishing fleet. Today, Lerwick is a busy fishing
and ferry port with a harbour that also services
vessels from the offshore oil industry.
The Shetland Islands are also famous for their
breeding of certain animals. Most famous are
the Shetland Pony and Shetland Sheepdog .
The Orkney Islands can trace their history far
back as well. Artifacts found have been dated
to 6820–6660 BC that point to the presence of
Mesolithic nomadic tribes. Now, it is home to
the renowned Highland Park whiskey distillery.
Founded in 1798, Highland Park is one of the
few distilleries to malt some part of the barley
it uses, blending locally Hobbister Moor peat
with heather before using it as fuel. Their
recipe is a winning one, and the whiskey is
fantastic.
The island is also home to the Ring of Brodgar,
a Neolithic stone circle which is part of the
UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the
Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
Ongoing excavations by Orkney College have
also uncovered several buildings, both ritual
and domestic. It is amazing to view these
treasures of the past in person – how did they
build them back then?
Edinburgh
For a great view into Scotland’s past and present,
the Royal Mile offers a cobblestoned walk
through time. It leads from Edinburgh Castle
down to Hollyrood House with shops and boutiques
lining both sides. It is an excellent way
for tourists to experience the numerous bars,
try the free tours based on the royal mile and
enjoy the vibe of the city.
All great things come to an end
London would be our last port and it could not
have been a better place to end a delightful
and relaxing cruise. Our Viking Sea made it
right to the heart of the city and docked in
front of the Cutty Sark, two blocks from the
tube and a stones throw from the Royal
Observatory. This, by the way, is no easy feat.
The Sea is the perfect size ship capable of sailing
the Thames River and getting through the
city’s flood barriers.
With much excitement, we were looking forward
to wonderful London but at the same
time we would have to say good-by to our
new-old friend the Viking Sea. She will be in
our hearts and minds as we remember the
wonderful experiences and life long memories
she brought us too.
www.vikingcruises.com
49
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

50
Glittering Skylines to Ancient Treasures
Cruising the Yangtze from Chongqing to the Three Gorges
Article and Photography by Jennifer Merrick
“China has changed so much in the last
20 years,” I kept hearing before my
trip. I was told of megacities, seas of
skyscrapers and high-speed trains in a country
modernizing at breakneck pace.
And they were right. “How could I not have
heard about this place before?” was my
question when we first arrived in Chongqing.
Located in the country’s southwest, this massive
metropolis was where our four-day
cruise along the Yangtze River would set sail.
The city’s night view mesmerized us. Its
brightly lit bridges that crossed the Yangtze
and Jialing Rivers, and the glittering skyscrapers
and modern architecture gave any
of the world’s more famous city skylines a
run for their money. Known for mountains,
spicy cuisine and beautiful women,
Chongqing is one of the fastest growing
cities in the world.
But further into the cruise, we discovered
another side to China, too. At the Three
Gorges (narrow valleys along the middle
section of the Yangtze River), we found a
land of mystic beauty with ancient sites that
brought to mind dragons, emperors and inkbrushed
depictions of mountains and mystery.
Tasty Tour of Chongqing
Given my astonishment at the sheer scope of
this metropolis, I was excited that our cruise
included a day of sightseeing around
Chongqing before boarding.
Our local guide, who called himself Ben,
described a tourist attraction that was our
first stop on the tour.
“A movie set of the Republic of China,” he
started with and then changed his mind.
“No, maybe National China. Yes, we’re
going to National China Movie Town.”
I had no idea what to expect. What it turned
out to be was an open-air living history site
of revolutionary China, with a village of
recreated building and costumed characters
(including General Chiang Kai-shek and
Chairman Mao) from the 1930s and 40s. At
that time, Chongqing was the provisional
capital during the Second Sino-Japanese
War. Think along the lines of Colonial
Williamsburg in Virginia, and you’ll get the
idea what the Chongqing Liangjiang

International Movie City, as it’s officially
known, was like.
There are over 220 historical buildings,
along with photo studios, where you can
have your picture taken in period garb (rifles
and uniforms included); tourist shops and
restaurants. At one eatery, Yida Hot Pot, we
tried the city’s most famous dish.
“Chongqing is hot pot’s hometown,” Ben
explained, and told us that tourists from
around China come to indulge.
The bubbling, fragrant pot of broth on the
table was red and filled with spicy peppers
and seasonings. Surrounding this center
piece was an impressive spread of uncooked
ingredients, some familiar (mushrooms, fish,
shrimp balls, dumplings) and others more
exotic (cow intestine, chicken feet).
“Half the flavour comes from the sauce, half
from the pot,” said Ben. We mixed the sauce
with garlic and onions into our bowls, placed
the food in the hotpot and waited for it to
cook. We then ladled it into our bowls for a
sweat-inducing, flavourful bite (though I
decided to pass on the chicken feet).
Fortified, we set out to explore more of
Chongqing, including a stop at the Three
Gorges Museum. Here, exhibitions gave us
insight into the region with displays of artifacts
from local excavations (with some
pieces dated back to the Six Dynasties, 317-
581 AD), the Three Gorges Dam and the
cultural and natural history of the area.
We had only scratched the surface of this
intriguing city and though I was itching to see
more, we had a cruise to board.
Sailing the Golden River
Sometimes referred to as Mother River or the
Cradle of Chinese Civilisation, the Yangtze
River’s landscape and history are synonymous
with China itself and etched in the
country’s identity. From Chongqing, we
sailed on a four-day cruise that took us to the
Three Gorges, considered one of the most
scenic segments of the river.
We left the bright lights of Chongqing behind
and awoke the first morning in Fuling, a river
town with thousands of years of history,
which we learned more about on a shore
excursion to the Baiheliang Underwater
Museum.
With the change in water level from the dam,
some of the country’s most treasured artifacts
had been at risk of being submerged permanently.
Fortunately, they were preserved at
this innovative museum, which gave us the
opportunity to view these ancient relics both
above and below the water.
A stone fish carving, large enough to lie
down on, greeted us as we entered the
museum. “When the stonefish came out of
the water, people believed there would be a
good harvest,” our guide informed us. It was
just one of many artifacts, dating back over
1200 years, which were used to record the
water levels of the river. After touring the
above-ground portion of the museum, we
descended a very steep escalator that led to
a long tunnel.
We were now under the water.
Along the passageway were portholes, from
which we could see the artifacts. What we
were looking at was the White Crane Ridge
(Baiheliang), so named because of the
cranes that once gathered on the stone.
Measuring over 5200 feet long and 49 feet
wide, it’s considered to be the first ancient
hydrometric station in the world. The extensive
inscriptions and carvings that date back
to 763BC were used to track the water levels,
droughts and floods. UNESCO has recognised
this museum as the only underwater
preservation site that is accessible for nondivers.
Life on board the Yangtze Gold 6 began to
take on a certain rhythm of buffets (a combination
of Western and Chinese) and onboard
entertainment. Highlights included Mahjong
lessons, a Chinese gambling game, which
turned out to be a little like Rummy with tiles,
and Asian craft demonstrations. But my
favourite pastime was simply watching the
scenery roll by from the balcony. Forested
hills changed into towns of white buildings
and then back again; the river widened and
narrowed; and boats large and small passed
us.
Our next shore excursion was at the
51
city of Wanzhou. Like Chongqing, it
surprized me with its sheer size and
stunning skyline. The concert we attended
was a true spectacle with dancers and musicians
from around the world, culminating in
a Chinese performance that featured dozens
of dancers accompanied by a full orchestra
playing with the lit-up skyline of Wanzhou
behind it.
Afterwards, we strolled along the river, where
a light installation bedazzled us with psychedelic
light tunnels and projected images. And
this was only the prelude to the laser show
that awaited us at the end, where we joined
the crowds oohing and aahing as images
appeared out of thin air.
After a night of the futuristic glitter and tech
of a large metropolis, it was a little discombobulating
to wake up in the morning to its
complete opposite. White Emperor City had
a palpable sense of antiquity. Throughout
the dynasties, leaders, artists and poets have
been attracted to this natural wonder, where
the river narrows and the mountains rise
steeply on its shores. Historically, it’s where
east meets west, and was home to several
important historical sites. We climbed the
stone steps of Mingliang Palace, which
housed a temple and shrines to ancient
emperors along with intricate stone carvings.
As remarkable as the artistry was, it couldn’t
compete with the view of Kui Gate. Here was
the entrance of the first of the three gorges,
a view so famous that it appears on the 10
Yuan bank note. With a mist coming off the
mountains that rise high from the curving
Yangtze River, it was so magical I halfexpected
to see dragons emerging out of the
clouds.
This was a China nobody had told me about.
I couldn’t help but marvel at the contrast:
modern cities and ancient lands, mystical
mountains and dazzling skylines, artifacts
that date back two millennials and cities that
have sprung up in two decades. And all of it
experienced on a much too brief four-day
cruise.
www.chongqing-guide.com
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

52
Nuremberg to Vienna with AmaSonata
by Olivia Balsinger
Irecently had the opportunity to discover
Europe’s powerful Danube River
aboard the AmaWaterways ship,
AmaSonata, which first launched in 2014.
This was my first river cruise and I quickly
understood why this cruising trend is so
popular. AmaSonata offers not only topnotch
amenities, but also has a considerably
relaxed vibe.
True to AmaWaterways philosophy, all daily
excursions were covered in the cruise price,
with the exception of a few optional tours. In
their effort to promote an active and adventurous
lifestyle and attract passengers that
are more physically adept, the excursions
usually consisted of hiking, cycling, and
long walking tours. On this Danube cruise,
for example, passengers had the option to
hike to the hilltop castles in Passau,
Germany, and Durnestein Austria. It also
has longer excursions like a full-day tour of
Salzburg, Austria, or a half-day tour of the
medieval Czech city Cesky Krumlov.
AmaWaterways makes it easy to stick to
your pace by dividing the activities of into
three levels. And now let me tell you a bit
about my adventures.
Nuremberg
I embarked in Nuremberg the first day, settling
into my temporary home-at-sea before
setting out to explore. Nuremberg, a city
marked by its prolific place in history’s most
historical moments, shows its complex layers
on the facades of its buildings; medieval
churches are harmonious, adjacent neighbors
to post-modern buildings. As a powerhouse
of the German Industrial Revolution,
the city had a particularly influential role in
the World War II era, serving as the stage
for Nazi rhetoric to infiltrate the ideology of
Germany’s working class. Desiring to delve
into the thick chapters of this era, I decided
to take the World War II tour offered as an
excursion, which took me to the specific
locations where history was made.
Regensburg
After a comfortable night’s sleep on board,
I woke up the following morning in
Regensburg — a city situated at the northernmost
point of the Danube River, known
to some as the most Italian city north of the
Alps, as well as “Germany’s medieval mir-

acle.” An ancient town with a modern flare,
careening its narrow streets is enough to
recognize its charm, amplified even further
by the marvelous medieval structures (the
best preserved in the country). Missing my
two wheels back home, I opted to take the
Guided Bike Tour to Walhalla — an impressive
Neoclassical building, first conceived in
1807 in order to support the unification of
the German States. Its function is laudatory,
as it serves as a memorial to some of the
most influential people in German history. It
houses some 65 plaques and 130 busts of
famous figures throughout 2,000 years of
history. It was a comprehensive experience
that introduced me to some of the most
prominent people in German culture, all
within a gorgeous interior reminiscent of an
opulent Greek temple with Versailles sensibilities.
Passau
The next day brought our ship to Passau,
where I was again drawn to the option of a
biking tour to both curb my recent indulgence
of delicious Bavarian confections, as
well as cover as much ground as possible.
The tour went from Passau to Erlau.
Highlights included seeing the confluence
of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz Rivers. After
crossing the Ilz Bridge, we rode down the
breathtaking coast of the Danube River,
which brought us to the largely untouched,
pristinely bucolic Donauleiten Nature
Reserve on the southern edge of the
Bavarian Forest. Nestled between steep
wooded slopes on one side and the mighty
waters of the Danube on the other side, the
area seems like an illustration ripped out of
the pages of a fairytale
Linz
We arrived in Linz the following morning —
a town known for its bustling music and arts
scene as well as its cultural institutions, from
the Mozart House to the Lentoz Museum of
Modern Art. It was hard for me to decide
which AmaWaterways activity to take, but,
feeling rather adventurous I chose the long
excursion to Salzburg, a charming city
known for its beautiful baroque buildings,
its religious history, and as the birthplace of
Mozart. Beginning in Linz, we first past the
lakeside town of Munsee, which many know
as the site of the wedding church in the
Sound of Music! When we arrived in
Salzburg proper, a tour of the historic center
gave us some bearings to explore on my
own during free time.
Melk
Melk was our next destination, which is
located next to the picturesque Wachau valley
on the Danube in lower Austria. Here I
visited the marvelous Melk Abbey, which is
one of the largest and most impressive
Baroque monasteries in all of Europe.
Founded in the eleventh century, Melk
Abbey was originally a residence for
Benedictine monks, it now houses a museum
dedicated to its history, with a library
with a fantastic collection of medieval manuscripts
that served as the inspiration for
Umberto Eco’s gorgeous, tragic novel “The
Name of the Rose.”
Vienna
Arriving in Vienna was bittersweet: I was
sad that my journey was coming to an end,
but elated that I had the chance to first
explore romantic Vienna, Austria’s capital.
Following my time onboard, I spent an
entire two days exploring this musical
dreamland, resting my head each night at
the boutique Hotel Grand Ferdinand
Vienna, conveniently located in the center of
the city, walking distance to Stephansplatz,
with panoramic views and a rooftop restaurant.
I especially enjoyed the historic architecture,
in a 20th-century European grandhotel
tradition, providing a unique escape
from the modern day (but with modern
comforts available, of course!)
With the Vienna Pass (with tagline “The
Sightseeing Pass to Vienna”), I enjoyed
many architectural marvels and lush gardens
of the city, making stops at the stunning
Vienna Opera House, St. Stephen’s
Cathedral, as well as the Ringstrasse — a
ringed road rife with beautiful Baroque
buildings, fascinating monuments, and
lovely parks. I explored
53
Kartnerstrasse, not only the most
famous shopping street in all of
Vienna, but home to the best traditional
Austrian pastries!
On Board Experience
Of course, my time onboard was just as fulfilling
as in port, thanks to the quality and
luxury of the AmaWaterways brand. The
ship is large enough that overcrowding is
rarely an issue. The main public areas are
the dining room and the main lounge, both
of which are spacious and well-illuminated
to provide an open and airy setting for quiet
thoughts and quick escapes. Each of its 81
cabins also strive to maximize the living
space, most of them boasting two balconies
— one of which is a French balcony and the
other an adjoining platform that can sit two
people comfortably. The cabins are separated
into nine categories, ranging from
staterooms, from 160 square feet, to suites,
up to 300 square feet. Each cabin also
comes equipped with a flat-screen TV, which
has access to 25 channels. There is also a
mini bar, complementary robes and slippers,
a hair dryer, and an umbrella.
Entertainment is also provided consistently
throughout the day, with a keyboard player
in the Lounge during lunch, at teatime, and
after dinner. At some ports, outside entertainment
may sometimes also come
onboard. The main entertainment venue is
the Violin Deck, where morning pastries,
light lunches, tea goodies, and late night
snacks are served on a bow-shaped buffet
in the middle of the boldly floral, airy room.
There is a panoramic window that provides
lovely views, and plenty of cozy sofas perfect
for conversations or some reading time
along. On the Sun Deck, there is a small
heated pool, with a swim up bar at one
end. In addition to the daily excursions, the
free use of bicycles, wine at lunch and dinner,
and a reliable Wi-Fi signal were all
included in the cruise price, ensuring a hassle
free adventure with AmaWaterways.
www.amawaterways.com
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

54
Feeling the Vibe in Maryland
Article and photography by Steve Gillick
WT Photo Library
Maryland is a state of contagious
enthusiasm these days and it
doesn’t take long for visitors to
become infected with excitement.
After we flew into Baltimore and spent the
day exploring some of the city’s 200 neighborhoods,
we settled into Minnow, a lively
South Baltimore seafood-cocktail restaurant,
to immerse our taste buds in
“Balmerese”. This term usually relates to
local pronunciations of the name
‘Baltimore’, as ‘Bodimore’ or “Balmer”. In
the city you often hear references to
‘Warshington’, the Nation’s Capital that
lies about a one hour drive west, and the
use of the word “Hon”, a ubiquitous term of
endearment that is short for “Honey” and
serves as a generic nickname for just about
any person.
The annual “Honfest” in June pays homage
to the Hon stereotype where those vying to
win ‘Baltimore’s Best Hon’ contest sport
50’s and 60’s style skirts, cat eye glasses
and feather boas, in addition to either a
prominent beehive hairdo (“the higher the
hair, the closer to God”, according to the
rules) or “a wash and set” (“because it’s full
of hope and hairspray”). And just a
reminder that the movie “Hairspray”,
filmed in the city, was essentially a celebration
of Baltimore culture.
But Balmerese can also refer to that unique
Baltimore state of mind that includes the
beloved Baltimore Orioles (not only the
State bird but also the baseball team),
Baltimore seafood with the emphasis on
crab cakes, Baltimore desserts such as
Smith Island Cake and Berger Cookies,
Baltimore Rye Whiskey, and of course Fort
McHenry where the American National
Anthem was composed by Francis Scott Key
in September, 1814.
Minnow’s reputation was built on local,
fresh seafood. Jake Lefenfeld the General
Manager explained “we don’t want food to
pass through a number of hands. We are
proud to tell our clients ‘that bad boy on

your plate was swimming yesterday’, and
then when we sampled the Salt Cod
Croquettes and the Crispy Oysters, we
knew exactly what Jake was talking about.
But backtracking just a bit, in our exploration
of Baltimore’s neighborhoods earlier
in the day, we had lunch in the Inner
Harbor at the Loch Bar in the Four Seasons
Hotel, where appetizers included fresh
shrimp, raw oysters, crab dip and tuna
poke, along with a nice RAR Bucktown
Brown Ale (there are 90 craft breweries in
Maryland, with Guinness being one of the
newest additions). And then my
Chesapeake Club sandwich arrived, full of
shrimp salad, crab cake, fried oyster, roasted
garlic, aioli, tomato, smoked bacon and
gruyere cheese. Sooo good!
Al Hutchinson, the President and CEO of
Visit Baltimore explained that visitors “want
to feel the vibe and fabric” of the destination
they are exploring and Baltimore’s
neighborhoods are perfect for this. “They
don’t want a cookie cutter experience. They
want to venture out”, and he noted that
there are programs for Baltimore neighborhood
residents to encourage them to
participate in the tourism experience. To
test this out, we visited a few key attractions.
The American Visionary Art Museum is
housed in a red brick building emblazoned
with the colorful words “O say can you
see”. Founder and Director Rebecca
Hoffberger explained how the Museum,
designated by Congress as the national
museum for self-taught art, “is addicted to
visionary thought through the path of intuition”.
She went on to say that ‘the exhibitions
either explain the glorious side of
human beings, or the worst. We throw
down a gauntlet to a theme and bring in
world experts”. Hoffberger, in her honest,
animated style said “we use the museum to
talk with influential people” and over the
years these have included Archbishop
Desmond Tutu, Edward Norton, David
Byrne, David Bowie, Robin Williams,
Tommy Lee Jones and many others.
The Permanent Exhibit in the Museum
includes Hobart Brown-inspired huge tricycle
sculptures of the Pink dog Fifi and Babe,
Paul Bunyan’s Blue Ox, Uri Geller’s 1976
Black Cadillac Fleetwood encrusted with
5000 bent spoons, Ron Nicolini’s Giant Bra
Ball made with 18,000 bras, and many
other amusing and thought-provoking
works of art.
While some might comment on the ‘rye’
sense of humor in many of the Museum’s
exhibits, others might just head over to the
Sagamore Spirit Distillery to learn about
Maryland Rye first hand! It started in the
1700’s when Rye was planted in tobacco
fields to re-generate the soil and now, with
a resurgence of interest in cocktails,
Maryland Rye, with hints of caramel, honey,
cinnamon and clove, has become a top
seller in the State and beyond.
Outside the Distillery, we boarded a Water
Taxi appropriately named Billie’s Voice.
The Jazz singer Billie Holiday, while born in
Philadelphia, spent a great deal of time in
Baltimore and the city has pretty well
adopted “Lady Day” as their own. In her
early years, Holiday lived in Fell’s Point,
where our taxi dropped us off, after winging
by historic Fort McHenry.
Fell’s Point brought us face to face with history.
Founded in 1726 by William Fell the
community became an important shipbuilding
center during the War of 1812.
Over the years, waves of immigrants made
their mark in the area and today it showcases
an artistic, funky, relaxed ambiance
with bars, restaurants, fashion and record
stores, mingled amongst 18th and 19th
century row houses.
One of the more notable establishments is
The Horse You Came In On Saloon where
a sign strictly advises “No Service will be
provided to anyone on a horse”. Another
sign notes that this was the poet, Edgar
Allan Poe’s last stop before we was found
in an alleyway on October 3, 1849. He
was taken to a nearby medical college
where he died four days later. There’s no
actual proof that this was “Poe’s Last Stop”
but it adds not only to the mythology,
romance and mystique of the area but also
to the evening ‘ghost’ tours.
In Maryland, the rule of thumb seems to be
‘stay in Baltimore and then hub out to the
other areas’. And there are many. We
explored the Civil War battlefield at
Antietam that relegated September 17,
1862 as the bloodiest day in American history
with 22,717 dead, wounded or missing.
Then we checked out Boonsboro,
founded by one of Daniel Boone’s cousins,
and home to bestselling author Nora
Roberts (a.k.a J.D. Robb). Lunch consisted
of an amazing pizza at Vesta Pizzeria
(owned by Roberts’ son) with a dessert of
delicious, rich ice cream at South Mountain
Creamery, served at a counter right next to
the barn where they keep the cows, and
proof of their motto “From Cow to Cone”.
From there visitors can continue to
Gathland State Park or on to Hagerstown
to follow one of the city culture trails or
head a bit further to Frederick. Here you
can wander along the Riverwalk or explore
the legacy of the Civil War in the downtown
streets. And just outside of Frederick you
can follow the Wine Route and relax with a
chilled glass of Passeggiata XI at the Black
Ankle Vineyard.
Feeling the vibe in Maryland is a natural
transition from arriving as a visitor to quickly
being referred to as “Hon”. It’s a fun,
creative and often times historical experience
where food, culture and community
all play a significant role.
www.visitmaryland.org
55
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

56
A Costa Rica Wildlife Vacation
Article and photography by Johanna Read, TravelEater.net
Iget a good sense of how abundant the
wildlife is in Costa Rica as soon as I
step out of the airport. As I follow my
guide extraordinaire, Emilio Solana, to the
car, he politely says, “watch your step”. I
glance down thinking, “oh, that rock is too
close to the wall for me to trip over.” And
then Emilio says, “that’s a cane toad.” It’s
the biggest amphibian in the whole country,
just hanging out at the airport giving
visitors their first look at Costa Rica’s abundant
wildlife.
As my week in Costa Rica progresses, I
quickly lose track of the number and types
of wildlife we see. I’m fortunate to have
Emilio as my guide, as he’s an expert in
Costa Rican history, geography, culture and
wildlife. He not only names every bird we
see, he can name them just from hearing
their call.
Emilio has his work cut out for him. Costa
Rica has 5% of the planet’s biodiversity
despite only having 0.03% of the earth’s
landmass. That means 850 bird species,
205 mammals, 160 amphibians, 220 reptiles,
1000 fish and 10,000 species of
plants and trees. If you want to see animals
on your vacation, you’ll love Costa Rica. G
Adventures offers small group tours if you’d
rather not travel independently.
The efforts the country has taken to preserve
its plant and animal biodiversity are
astounding. For example, they have
reversed deforestation (the world’s first
tropical country to do so). Over 54% of the
country is forested, when it was only 21% in
the 1980s. A whopping 26% of the country
is protected natural land, 93% of their electricity
is from renewable resources, and
Costa Rica plans even greater measures to
become the world’s first carbon neutral
country by 2121. There’s no need to even
buy bottled water in Costa Rica: tap water
is perfectly drinkable, including for foreigners.
All this makes it an ideal country for a
tropical vacation (or, for those so inclined,
an ideal retirement base).
My travels are based within driving distance
of Costa Rica’s northwest international air-

port, Liberia. My trip begins in the forested
foothills of the Rincón de la Vieja Volcano
and the national park of the same name, in
the province of Guanacaste. The lush
forests are rich with wildlife. Just on my way
to breakfast I see several coatimundis and
a monkey. A cartoon-like toucan and more
coatis hang out near Buena Vista Lodge’s
open air restaurant at lunch.
Buena Vista Lodge is more than a hotel.
Guests can learn about traditional Costa
Rican cooking techniques, try their hand at
making tortillas and other specialties, then
taste their handiwork accompanied by the
country’s excellent coffee.
This eco-resort also encourages overnight
WT Photo Library
and day guests to explore the primary tropical
forest. You can choose from a hike or
horseback ride to a waterfall, flying
through the air on ziplines, walking
amongst the treetops on 16 hanging
bridges, and even ride a ground level water
slide that twists around tree trunks. We see
bright blue butterflies, lizards, squirrels,
monkeys, coatis and enough birds to have
a birdwatcher pull out his checklist. Emilio
identifies them all and tells me about their
lives.
After exploring the tropical forest, everyone
needs a break. Buena Vista Lodge delivers
with natural thermal pools fed by the
Rincón de la Vieja Volcano. I try each of the
five differently-temperatured pools, plus the
sauna, and then cover myself with volcanic
mud. I gaze out at the jungle and babbling
brook as the mud dries and try to count the
number of different bird calls I hear.
Another great way to see Costa Rica’s
wildlife is with a wetlands tour. In El Viejo
Wildlife National Refuge, we take a boat
ride on the Tempisque River.
The tidal river is teeming with birds, crocodiles,
turtles, bright green, grey and orange
iguanas, capuchin and howler monkeys,
and several species of bats (Emilio points
out eight long nose bats cutely lined up in
a column on a tree trunk). Costa Rica’s
lizards’ names spark the imagination --
there’s ctenosaurs, green basilisks, and
even Jesus Christ lizards, so named
because of their ability to run on water.
At El Viejo there are even several bird
species not found anywhere else in Costa
Rica, including laughing falcons, roseate
spoonbills, wood storks and great egrets.
Also here, but more difficult to see, are the
breeding pair of Central America’s largest
aquatic bird, the jabirú, plus wild cats and
peccaries, which look a little like a fuzzier
warthog.
Of course Costa Rica’s coast has plenty of
wildlife too. Tamarindo, in Guanacaste on
the Pacific coast, is a great place to base
yourself to explore everything the coast has
to offer. The town has plenty of tourist infrastructure
(you’ll have your choice of gelato
shops) and has several popular beaches.
Animal lovers will want to observe the tiny
animals that live in the tidepools at quiet
Langosta Beach. Kayakers can go birdwatching
in the Tamarindo Estuary and
watch sunbathing crocodiles hope a monkey
swings down close. Huge leatherback
turtles lay eggs at Grande Beach between
November and April.
A sailing trip is another way to see Costa
Rica’s wildlife, as well as its stunning
scenery. Dolphins and whales sometimes
show off for sailors. There are several
snorkelling spots and kayakers can get up
close to the green shores. I was amazed to
see my first pufferfish, covered in polka
dots, while snorkelling.
Wildlife was even abundant at my hotel,
Tamarindo Diria, on a popular beach and
surrounded by shops and restaurants, After
taking a swim in the gentle waves (it’s an
ideal place to learn to surf), I gaze out to
the ocean and notice several iguanas
perched on a wall enjoying the same view.
A beautiful squirrel -- variegated, I later
learn from Emilio -- alternatively poses for
my camera and takes flying leaps between
lounge chairs.
No matter where are you are in beautiful
Costa Rica, it’s difficult not to see wildlife.
And thanks to the country’s impressive sustainability
measures, it looks like that
wildlife will be around for generations to
come.
www.visitcostarica.com/en
57
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

58
Luxury Hotels...Grand Resorts...Charming B&B...Opulent Villas...Quaint C
Stay & Play Section Sweet Dreams Around the World
Seattle Sheraton Goes Grand!
With plenty of hoopla and fanfare last October, the Sheraton Seattle Hotel
became a Sheraton Grand and celebrated its multi-million-dollar renovation
to bring the legendary downtown stay up to the iconic Grand standards. The
galas included VIP parties with bountiful buffets of artisan tapas, pop-up bars
with signature drinks, and even an entire ice wall of champagne! Guests
were also encouraged to participate in the unique immersive experiences
called “The Heart of The City” where you can take photos and videos with
recreated local landmarks and interactive props like the Space Needle and
the storefront of the original Starbucks -founded in Seattle. This initiative is
going global to showcase Sheraton’s commitment to highlighting the best of
local attractions, culture and vibe in its hotels around the world. Guests also
enjoyed the launch of the new Sheraton Club on the 33rd floor for high-end
complimentary food and drink when you book the upscale Club floor rooms.
Other dining on the property includes the stand-alone talk-of-town trendy
Loulay Kitchen and Bar helmed by charismatic culinary force Chef Thierry
Rautureau- better known locally as the “Chef in the Hat”.
The hotel is in a prime location, close to all kinds of other great food and
drink emporiums like Steelhead Diner, and world class shopping is also in
easy walking distance. It’s also a mere five blocks away from the famous
seafront Pike Place Public Market- nine acres of farm to-fork offerings, incredible
fresh fish and seafood, and all kinds of craft shops and unique entertainment.
While in town, do take a tour with Seattle Seaplanes nearby for unparalleled
views of the city and the surrounding region, it’s seriously one of the
best ways to see “The Heart of the City.”
www.sheratongrandseattle.com
bySusan Campbell
Fairmont Empress Victoria
Timeless Royal Treatment
by Susan Campbell
Some things do get better with age. Like
the classic charm and iconic hospitality of
Victoria’s premiere hotel the Fairmont
Empress. You can’t help but be impressed
at the outset when you roll up to this stately
Grand Dame of Vancouver Island stays,
especially if you do so by water- as we did
aboard the new luxury transfer from
Vancouver called the V2V Ferry. This hotel
is seriously Instagram-worthy with a class
and style you just don’t see in hotels anymore.
But even though she was first built
in 1908, this castle-like structure has managed
to retain that iconic old-world elegance
while still keeping up with the
times. Their world-famous afternoon tea
options offer 32 versions for restricted
diets, and their dining room has also
recently won a Wine Spectator Award. We
also enjoyed the local seaweed treatment
pampering in their spa, too.
www.fairmont.com/empress-victoria
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59
Kananaskis Mountain Lodge
by Jennifer Merrick
juicy, tender textures and big flavours.
Surrounded by wilderness with well-maintained
hiking trails, it was easy to succumb
to the lure of the mountains at the resort’s
doorstep or venture a little farther and
explore the popular mountain attractions of
Banff National Park and Canmore.
Hot-warm-cold-rest-repeat. This
outdoor hydrotherapy circuit is the
foundation of the Nordic Spa.
Esteemed for its therapeutic and stressrelieving
properties, it has long been a staple
spa experience in Scandinavia and
Quebec. And now, it can be enjoyed in
Alberta at the Pomeroy Kananaskis
Mountain Lodge.
Located an hour west of Calgary in the scenic
Kananaskis Valley, this resort -- part of
the Marriott Autograph Collection --was
everything a mountain retreat should be.
Their 247 recently renovated guest rooms
and suites were well-designed with large
windows that showed off the jagged peaks
of the Rockies; wood-burning fireplaces and
cozy furnishings combine seamlessly with
modern conveniences; and it has one of the
most comfortable beds I’d ever slept in.
Restaurant choices included the Forte
Restaurant, which featured favourite Italian
dishes, especially the handmade pizzas
done in wood-oven fires, and the Cedar
Room. This more upscale eatery emphasised
regional and seasonally inspired dishes.
It was here I relished my first Albertan
steak, which was justifiably famous for its
But we couldn’t forget the Nordic Spa. With
the exception of the cold plunge (which was
apparently excellent for the body’s circulation
and immune system but tortuous to
endure), every station had its own unique
bliss: three different types of saunas, eucalyptus
and alchemist steam rooms, hot and
warm pools and an exfoliation cabin. The
latter, inspired by the traditional Turkish
Hamman, was an extra touch, designed to
be the last stop, where you’re given salts to
scrub off dead skin.
So here, the prescribed Nordic spa method
was hot-warm-cold-rest-repeat and then
exfoliate. It’s only a recommendation, of
course. Personally, my circuit was: relax in
the hot tub and look at the snow-peaked
mountains while building resolve to jump in
the cold plunge pool. Then stand at the
edge of the plunge pool and count to three
–dip my right toes in –beeline to the steam
rooms. Once again, stand at the edge of
the cold station and count to three – dip my
left toes in -- head straight back to the hot
tub and look at the mountains, vowing to
give up on the cold plunge -- and then exfoliate.
But nevertheless, I emerged from the Nordic
Spa soaked, steamed and scrubbed. And
more importantly, feeling invigorated and
relaxed, which was a perfect combination to
enjoy the Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain
Lodge.
www.lodgeatkananaskis.com
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service. Located at Playa Blanca is
The Westin Puntacana Resort & Club,
guest enjoys all of Westin’s signature
amenities and Don Queco Cigar Bar. Our
Four Points by Sheraton is situated at
Puntacana Village, few minutes away from
Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ).
The Estates
Become a part of our magnificent paradise
community with the purchase of a
vacation home in the elite The Estates at
Puntacana Resort & Club, where Julio
Iglesias, Mikhail Baryshnikov call home.
An exclusive lifestyle of relaxation, excitement
and understated elegance, prospective
buyers can choose among elegant
homes perched above the Caribbean Sea
or overlooking scrupulously manicured
golf courses in Corales, Tortuga, Arrecife,
Hacienda, Hacienda del Mar and Marina.
Home and apartments are also available
at Puntacana Village.
Golf
With 45 holes of championship golf,
Puntacana Resort & Club is the
Caribbean’s premier golf & beach destination.
The P.B. Dye designed La Cana
Golf Course, consisting of 27 holes across
Tortuga, Arrecife and Hacienda, was
declared the number one course in the
Caribbean by Golf Magazine. Designed
by Tom Fazio and set between rocky cliffs,
coral reefs and the expansive Caribbean
Sea, the Corales Golf Course features six
oceanfront holes, multiple lines of
approach and picturesque canyons, making
for an exhilarating experience.
Activities & Spa
Puntacana Resort & Club offers a wide
range of adventures for guests of all ages
including golf, tennis, kite boarding, scuba
diving, horseback riding, fishing and
numerous excursions by sea, land and air.
The leading spa in the Caribbean, Six
Senses Spa at Puntacana Resort & Club
presents a range of innovative packages,
Signature treatments and Asian therapies.
Visit Galerías Puntacana to enjoy an
assortment of shops, restaurants, playground,
and our spirited nightlife.
Dining
Puntacana Resort & Club is home to 6
world class eateries with an indigenously
delectable cuisine. Tucked inside Tortuga
Bay, the AAA Four Diamond awarded
Bamboo blends modern cuisine with
Mediterranean influences. Specializing in
local seafood, The AAA Three Diamond
Award La Yola is located at the Marina. At
La Cana Golf & Beach Club is The Grill,
an American style grill offering views of
the sea. The Westin Puntacana Resort &
Club provides a variety or restaurants and
bars from Ananí to Brassa Grill. Next door
is Playa Blanca, a beachfront tropical
restaurant. Our Dine Around Program
offers the best sampling of our finest culinary
experience. All restaurants offer complimentary
shuttle service within the resort.
More dining options are available at
Puntacana Village.
Corporate Social Responsibility
We believe that in development there
needs to be equilibrium among the economic,
environmental and social components.
Our non-profit Grupo Puntacana
Foundation serves both natural and social
resources, while contributing to the sustainable
development of our Dominican
Republic. These practices have been guiding
principles of our company, and along
with vision, hard work and perseverance,
the key to our success.
Punta Cana International airport
Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ),
built, owned and operated by Grupo
Puntacana, the resort’s developers, and
located within Puntacana Resort & Club, is
just minutes away from check-in at any of
our hotels or private homes. Punta Cana
International Airport (PUJ) has direct service
from 98 different cities around the
world, making Punta Cana the most
accessible destination in the Caribbean.
Our VIP terminals service the needs of
guests flying in private aircrafts.
The Caribbean’s Premiere Golf
& Beach Resort Community
www.puntacana.com

62
A Tranquil Urban Oasis: The Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo
Article and photography by Steve Gillick
There are not too many hotels in Tokyo
that offer a speechless view. But we
deliberately left the curtains open at
night so every time we woke up, we could take
in the beauty of that amazing, illuminated,
700 year old Pagoda in the hotel garden.
And while the three-storey Pagoda served as
the crowning visual jewel of the Hotel
Chinzanso Tokyo garden, an earlier walk
revealed other treasures. The stone statues of
Rakan memorialize spiritual practitioners
from the 17th century. The Koshin stone monument,
with Chinese Taoist origins, was made
in 1669 and has never moved from its location.
A 500 year old Sacred Chinquapin Tree
with supports for its branches, is encircled by
a rope called a ‘shimenawa’ to indicate that a
kami, or spirit, resides here. The Shiratama
Inari Shrine is accessible by the forest pathways
that meander through the garden where
seasonally, sakura (cherry blossoms) and
camellias bloom. In fact when the property
was originally acquired in 1878 by Aritomo
Yamagata, a former Prime Minister of Japan,
he named it “Chinzanso” or “mountain of
camellias” after the fragrant flowers that
bloom in hues ranging from white to dark
pink.
The hotel was formerly a Four Seasons property
and has maintained a true Five Star
ambiance that includes the lobby, the hallways,
the rooms and the hotel’s welcoming
customer service. Ms. Ayumi Sanada, the
Assistant Director of Marketing gave us a tour
of the facilities that include 267 accommodation
rooms, 6 chapels, 9 restaurants, as well
as numerous function rooms.
Ayumi-san informed us that on weekends,
there could be up to 40 weddings each day at
the hotel, but that during the week this was a
true ‘urban oasis’ where guests can revel in
luxury and nature but also participate in workshops
that include the tea ceremony, kimono
fitting, Japanese language lessons and a garden
tour. The hotel’s newest activity is the Be
a Samurai program where guests can learn
sword techniques (with optional Samurai costuming)
and enjoy a talk on the teachings of
bushido (the Way of the Samurai).
And to enhance the feeling of ‘getting away’
guests can enjoy ‘YU, The Spa’ that includes a
fitness gym, hot spring and swimming pool.
Some of the treatment rooms have their own
outdoor garden and waterfall.
“Omotenashi” denotes hospitality from the
heart and the Chinzanso has embraced this
as their philosophy. In the accommodation
rooms, from Standard to the ‘View Bath Suite”
(where a round tea-cup bath tub allows
guests to luxuriate as they take in the view of
the garden), specially designed table lamps
from the town of Arita, customized silk sashes
on the beds and original art work on the walls
contribute to the comfort of the spacious
rooms. We visited the Japanese Suite, a
Tatami room for up to six guests, with the traditional
tea burner ‘hidden’ in the floor mats,
a shoji screen hiding the large-screen television,
and an upper floor garden view that
enhanced the serenity of the experience.
The Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo is about 20 minutes
from Tokyo Station, accessible by the JR
Yamanote Line (train) with a short taxi or bus
ride from the Mejiro Station, or on the Tokyo
Metro (subway) with a short taxi ride or a 20
minute walk from the Edogawabashi Station
along the Riverwalk.
In Tokyo this is tranquility at its best!
www.hotel-chinzanso-tokyo.com
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

Gods of Fortune), and a low table in
63
the middle of the room, with cushions
for sitting. The bedding, consisting
of mattresses, futons and pillows would
be laid out after dinner. And one of the
hallmarks of the resort: our very own, private
outdoor hot spring bath.
The Inn also has a ‘public’ hot spring
where, after soaking in the hot, soothing
waters, you can prolong the tranquility with
a visit to a small lobby with massage chairs
overlooking another serene garden, and
complimentary drinks of Sake and lemoninfused
water.
The dinner menu was a reflection of local
seasonal specialties including Shijimi
clams, pumpkin soup, smoked duck, sashimi,
sea cucumber and more. The visual
presentation was stunning!
Sacred Connections at the
Hoshino Resorts KAI Izumo
When the Hoshino Resorts KAI
Izumo refers to their location in
Shimane Prefecture, Japan, as
“The Dwelling Place of the Gods”, it’s not
just a clever marketing slogan. But before
we checked into this luxury boutique hot
spring ryokan (a traditional Japanese Inn),
we visited two places that would unknowingly
complement the resort’s heavenly
connection.
The first was the Izumo Taisha Shrine, the
first Shinto Shrine in all of Japan, which is
connected with the Japanese creation story
of the gods Izanagi and Izanami and their
offspring: Amaterasu, the goddess of the
Sun, Susanoo, the god of the storms and
Tsukiyomi, the god of the moon.
Not far from the Shrine, in the city of
Izumo, we visited the Asahi Shuzo brewery
Article and photography by Steve Gillick
and sampled some of their excellent sakes,
before hopping on the train to the resort
hot spring town of Tamatsukuri Onsen,
where a short taxi ride took us to the KAI
Izumo.
The stone lantern and brilliant red
Japanese Maple tree in the garden were
the perfect venue for our greeting at the
resort. Once inside, a second garden just
off the main lobby features manicured trees
and a tranquil pond. An indoor bright
orange bridge connects the lobby with an
art gallery, showcasing the works of local
crafts people.
The 24 rooms in the ryokan are classic
Japanese style (Washitsu) with tatami
(straw) mats, sliding doors, an alcove displaying
a statue of Ebisu, the god of
Fishermen and of Luck (one of the Seven
In the evening, the Ryokan staff performed
in ‘Iwami Kagura’, a light-hearted presentation
of local Japanese legends. In our
story, Susanoo the god of the Storms,
recently banished from the heavens, met
an old couple who cried that their seven
daughters had been eaten by the mysterious
serpent Yamata-no-Orochi. Now the
couple’s eighth daughter, Kushinadahime,
was at risk. Susanoo created an extra
strong sake, which caused the serpent to
fall into a deep sleep. Susanoo killed it,
married Kushinadahime, and one of their
descendants is said to be enshrined at
Izumo Taisha Shrine. So ‘the land of the
gods’ story and our experience in the area,
came full circle (with sake thrown in for
good measure).
Yuji Miho, the manager of the Hoshino
Resorts KAI Izumo, noted that the special
connection with the gods in Shimane
Prefecture is mirrored in the tranquil
ambiance of the hotel’s design: the gardens,
the hot spring, the food and even the
evening story telling. An overnight stay here
is a very special experience.
www.kai-ryokan.jp/en/izumo
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

66
The Belle of Belize
Mahogany Bay Village
by Susan Campbell
Belize had been on my bucket list for a
long time, so I was very excited to get
there recently. After flying into
Goldson International Airport, it was a quick
hop with Tropic Air in a tiny little plane to San
Pedro on Ambergris Caye. Though the flight
was short- less then 15 minutes, the view was
glorious below- all stunning aqua seas peppered
with tiny little islands… and I couldn’t
wait to get into that sparkling turquoise
ocean.
We arrived at Mahogany Bay Village quicklyit’s
a mere two miles from the downtownand
I could instantly see why they called it a
“village”. Actually, I heard it referred to as a
“townlet” more often- a new word for mebut
I get it. It’s a sprawling 6-acre community
of accommodations, all with their own
streets. Like a town, there are chic shops,
restaurants, cafes, bars and a standalone
yoga centre and spa as well. And the entire
complex revolves around The Great House, a
two-story grand colonial style mansion that
sits on the edge of a lagoon. That’s also
where you’ll find the pool and you can rent
private cabanas for more luxurious lounging
if you really want to live large. But I must
admit, I was disappointed to discover that the
resort is not on a swimmable sea. The brackish
lagoon surrounding it even has a resident
crocodile! So, swimming is absolutely verboten.
But once I found out that there’s a
complimentary water taxi to their very own
private beach a few minutes away, I was
relieved. We enjoyed a marvelous dinner in
the main dining room that night, and also
enjoyed our breakfast buffet on the Great
House terrace the next day before we took off
to the beach. Food was great, and staff were
super.
Private Island Life
Enroute to our tropical retreat, we passed an
island that’s owned by Leonardo di Caprio
who intends to turn it into an eco-resort this
year. Nice neighbours! Just beyond it, is the
Mahogany Bay Beach Club with a bar/grill
with a rooftop lounge, and plenty of shade
palapas and hammock. The sand is brilliant
white and water calm, clear and inviting. But
my favorite lounging spot was the oversized
daybeds on stilts right in the water. And hav-
ing the staff walk through the waves barefoot
to deliver your snacks and cocktails is really a
trip!
The Stays
Touted as “Belize’s first global luxury branded
resort” the stay options are very eclectic. As
part of the upscale boutique Curio Collection
by Hilton, you can rent hotel style suites, or
you can opt for cottages or even a multi-bedroom
house, some with their own pools,
designed by the Mahogany Group.
Ownership option are also on the table with
customizable Coastal Living branded homes.
And everyone can have their own golf cart!
Seems that golf carts are the transportation
mode of choice for the entire San Pedro population.
They are everywhere! It’s lots of fun
to take them to town for some shopping, dining
or an excursion. I highly recommend the
snorkel trip excursion to Shark Alley, it’s
chock full of stingrays and colorful fish
besides the sharks. And not a crocodile in
sight!
mahoganybayvillage.com
Photo: Vivo Resorts
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

Cabos Two Ways
by Susan Campbell
67
Secrets
Multi-generational travel can be a
challenge, in this case one
boomer and two millennials- my
adult daughter and her boyfriend. Though
we all love the same type of trip- sun and fun
in a tropical setting and upscale all-inclusive
luxury- sometimes the vibe of one place is
geared more to one generation than another.
So, we decided to try Los Cabos two different
ways, splitting our time between two
adult-only all-inclusive resorts.
Secrets Puerto Los Cabos Golf & Spa Resort
My past experiences in Los Cabos, I discovered
that there are few resorts with a swimmable
beach because of dangerous riptides
and it can be a tad disappointing not to be
able to immerse in the waves. This was such
a resort, but their infinity pool cresting the
ocean (part of the Preferred Club class of
rooms) was the next best thing. Their main
pool for all guests is more the party pool,
and it is lovely too. There is also a beach bar
on the cliff by the sea which became one of
our favourite spots to hang out.
The resort itself is massive, sprawling along
their golf course and offering 500 guest
rooms with either garden or ocean view, and
some have swim-out access as well. As with
all Secrets Resorts, the stay includes a signature
Unlimited Luxury® package – a la carte,
no reservation dining and bar service in a
wide variety of themed settings. Sadly, we did
not have time to try each restaurant, but we
thoroughly enjoyed the Mexican and the
Italian spots, and the outdoor entertainment
at night around the marketplace square was
above and beyond. The hotel is not walking
distance to Puerto Los Cabos, but they do
offer shuttles to the charming little town.
www.secretsresorts.com/en_us/reso
rts/mexico/puerto-los-cabos
Breathless Cabos San Lucas Spa Resort
and Spa
Located steps away from the downtown core
of Cabos San Lucas, you’ll find Breathless,
one of the new AMResort brands geared
toward millennials. I expected it to be a little
too wild for me, but I was delighted at the
layout. The 169-room resort is separated into
two different buildings- one for accommodations
and one all for entertainment. The pool
and bar in the accommodation building had
a wonderful relaxed vibe and great soft live
music, but if you were in party mode, you
simply headed to the rooftop pool bar in the
other building, and later at night, the toplevel
bar turns into a pumping nightclub.
Dining is mostly seaside, and though their
Unlimited Luxury® offerings are not as extensive
as Secrets- number of dining spots and
bars- it’s more than adequate for the price.
We all really enjoyed both resorts for their
different features, but for me, the highlight of
this spot was that it is right in front of the
famous arches on Modano Beach, and one
of the few safely sea swimmable spots in the
entire region. There is great snorkeling right
off their beach as well.
www.breathlessresorts.com/en_us/r
esorts/mexico/cabo-san-lucas.html
Secrets Breathless Breathless
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

68
The Al Bait Sharjah Hotel Dubai
by Olivia Balsinger
Just 25 kilometers north of Dubai along
the Arabian Coast’s southern peninsula,
yet feeling worlds apart, Al Bait Sharjah
is the region’s jewel that is still most entirely
off the mainstream tourist radar—and thus
right up my alley! It is widely known as the
United Arab Emirate’s cultural hub and is
filled with a historic legacy stretching back
some 6,000 years, intriguing museums and
captivating souqs. It also boasts stunning
mountains on one side and dramatic coastline
on the other, creating a beautifully scenic
picture. Oh and if that isn’t enough, it is
one of the hot new international art destinations.
So it goes without saying that I am
incredibly excited to stay at newly opened Al
Bait Sharjah.
The five-star hotel is a boutique property
with just 53 rooms and suites inside four
converted heritage houses that were once
owned by local families who made an
impact on Sharjah’s history either culturally,
politically or intellectually. The name Al Bait
Sharjah actually translates to “The Home” in
English, and staying here really feels like
sleeping in a really wealthy friend’s vacation
home. The rooms come in a number of sizes
and styles. I loved the Heritage Rooms,
which are each uniquely decorated and
come with a stylish “Asian meets Arabian”
aesthetic. They also look out over a private
traditional inner courtyard filled with greenery
and a water fountain and there are plenty
of cushions and rugs to sit on and stare
out the windows from. The suites are also
sweet (aptly named!) and come with all the
modern comforts you can think of and plenty
of space to move around. I loved the living
room with its traditional rugs, cushions
and lanterns and the minimalist vibe in the
bedroom.
The property is also part of a larger bespoke
historical restoration project known as Heart
of Sharjah, which merges Islamic heritage
with contemporary open design. Beyond the
hotel, Heart of Sharjah is filled with restaurants,
galleries, cafes and atmospheric local
bazaars. There are also plenty of amenities
on the hotel grounds to take advantage of.
Don’t skip a service at the spa, which is a
luxury oasis that offers a range of Middle
Eastern influenced treatments using organic
artisan products. There is also a state of the
art gym on the property with Technogym
equipment and a pool.
For onsite dining there are no less than four
choices, always. Try The Arabic Restaurant if
you want gourmet Emirati fare served family
style; while The Restaurant does a more
traditional international menu. The Cafe is
where to get your caffeine buzz on with a
cup of Arabic or Turkish coffee as well as
some excellent people watching. And finally,
my favorite, having a sweet treat at The
Ice Cream Shop, which creates an array of
homemade flavors that are far from your
generic chocolate and vanilla selections.
The Emirate of Sharjah also hosts a number
of internationally acclaimed events including
the Sharjah Formula 1 Powerboat
Grand Prix, The Dubai World Cup of
horseracing and The Sharjah Biennial, one
of the Middle East’s most prestigious art
events. In an area of the world so modern
and extravagant, The Al Bait Sharjah does a
stellar job at maintaining its authentic, timeless
charm.
Ghmhotels.com/en/al-bait-sharjah
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

Cheetah Plains, Sabi Sands
by Olivia Balsinger
69
The sky opened up—a brilliant
palate of orange and yellow hues,
contrasting the spooky silloettes of
the Red Bushwillow trees. We were enjoying
our “sundowners” after the most epic of
game drives in our Cheetah Plains Electric
Land Cruiser, trading stories about our
favorite safari moment thus far. Mine, hands
down, was when we watched a stealthy
leopard named Hosana crouch in the
savannah, eyeing the prey—an unknowing
impala—just meters away. A bush thunderstorm
was rolling in, creating spectacular
ambiance, as Hosana neared the prize. We
stood in awe, feeling the wrath of nature at
her best.
This moment, along with other scenes of jaw
dropping action, occurred on the Sabi
Sands Reserve with Cheetah Plains lodge.
Nestled between the world-famous Kruger
National Park and the established Mala
Mala Game, Cheetah Plains is a total refurbished
first class lodge, the first of its kind in
South Africa. The first iteration of Sabi Sand
Reserve was formed in 1934, making it the
oldest private game reserve in South Africa,
as well as the first to practice and promote
sustainable wildlife tourism in Southern
Africa. Cheetah Plains, with a soft opening
in early December, is a world class wildlife
splendor and a lodge that is architecturally
unique and impressive.
The lodge boasts three exclusive-use designer
bush houses, each with two lounges, dining
areas, outdoor bomas (picnic areas),
wine cellars, and heated swimming pools.
The lodges take their name from two legendary
leopards of the Sabi Sand region, as
well as a dominant lion coalition: “Mvula,”
“Karula,” and “Mapogo,” respectively. I
stayed in “Karula” with my traveling
cohort—though we enjoyed privately
cooked meals prepared by a renowned chef
and drank wine from our own wine cellar
(and plenty of Gin and Tonics, of course!)
together in the bush house, it was equally
pleasant to be able to retreat to my own
suite when I desired privacy.
You see, the concept behind Cheetah Plains
is that each bush house is connected to four
private suites, featuring luxurious king beds,
private viewing decks, dressing rooms, double
rain showers and baths that open up to
magnificent views of the surrounding African
bush. My suite happened to sit on a mini
watering hole, and so I enjoyed the company
of bathing warthogs and frisky kudu
when indulging in a bubble bath or enjoying
an in-room spa treatment.
Each suite is in harmony between the interior
and the exterior; it seeks to blend the natural
environment resulting in a gorgeous
example of ‘African minimalism.’ Naked
timber and Mohair wool rugs furnish the
rooms against a subdued natural palette,
with hints of luxurious bronze and gold, and
carefully curated art collected from local
South American artists. I was in my own
heaven, feeling dually secluded and pampered.
During my stay, we had access to
our own private game viewing vehicles as
well as designated and knowledgeable local
field guide, Sidds, and tracker, Sam. The
vehicles at Cheetah Plaines are battery
operated, hardly making a sound as the
engine ignites—and more environmentally
beneficial.
Proximity to wildlife is magical at Cheetah
Plains, as there are no fences separating the
bush and suites (except for a small wire preventing
intruding elephants) which really
allows guests to feel they are a part of the
nature. In addition, on game drives we spotted
leopard, lion, buffalo, elephant, zebra,
giraffe and, of course—true to namesake—
cheetah.
www.cheetahplains.com
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19

We heard the rush of the massive
waterfall before we saw
it. We were walking down a
rainforest path in a remote national
park, just a small group of visitors with
two local guides, snaking between towering
trees and occasional luminous blue
butterflies the size of my hand.
My heart was pounding. My Guyanese
friend Wesley had told me about
Kaieteur, often called the world’s largest
single-drop waterfall. Its broad waters
plunge off a ledge straight down without
hitting another spot along the way,
falling 741 feet in one swoop – or roughly
the height of a 74-story building.
That’s four times taller than Niagara
Falls on the US-Canada border. Yet
Kaieteur receives only about 8,000 visitors
per year, compared to over 7 million
at Niagara. I was thrilled to be so near.
Wesley and I had set out from the capital
of this former British colony in South
America early morning to board a 17-
passenger plane. The pilot flew 11 of us
more than an hour over miles and miles
of greenery - first plains, then hills and
highlands. The virgin forests below
looked like broccoli plantations, the tops
tufted like florets. Sinewy ribbons of
chocolate-colored rivers sometimes
peeked through the trees.
From the air, we glimpsed some small
waterfalls, but suddenly, as if out of
nowhere, emerged Kaieteur, gushing
down golden-brown, enormous. The
nearly black Potaro River spilled over a
wide cliff, and the water dropped into a
gorge, mists rising and rainbows too. I
gasped, elated.
We circled with the plane, but Kaieteur
retreated into the tropical forest. I was
eager to see it without light reflecting off
the plane window and without the hum
of propellers drowning out nature’s
music.
Within minutes, we landed on a dirt
airstrip, the only plane in sight. Just off
the runway was a small wooden building
with a sign for Kaeiteur National Park.
We meandered over to meet our guides,
Candace Evans and Lincoln Pereira, both
in their 20s and from indigenous communities
nearby.
Candace instructed us to stay on the
trails, and at lookout points, to keep at
least eight feet away from the edge of the
rocky slabs above the gorge hundreds of
feet below us. Kaieteur has no safety
rails, aiming to remain as pristine as
possible. “Please don’t try to prove yourself,”
she requested.
We’d walked only a few minutes when
Candace pointed out something I’d
never seen: “carnivorous” plants. The
reddish groundcover secretes a substance
that attracts mosquitos and other
bugs. “When the insects come, they stick
on, and the plant eats them. So, we don’t
use mosquito repellent here but have it
naturally,” she joked.
Soon, after navigating steps and rocky
paths, I heard it: the rush of Kaieteur, a
strong and constant whir, not threatening
but somehow life-affirming, almost meditative.
We followed the sound. At the first
lookout, I saw the caramel waters pour
over the ample ledge. Two furrows
crossed into a white-capped “V” near the
top, reminding me of a heart, perhaps
the heart of Mother Nature herself.
Our guides told us the dark color of the
water came from tannins in the roots of
the trees by the river, a tributary of the
Essequibo and part of the greater
Amazon basin.
The name, Kaieteur, may well come from
legend, Candace explained. The story
goes there was an old man, or Kaie in
the Patamona language. He was chief of
a tribe engaged in a bitter war with the
Carib tribe. The chief threw himself over
the falls, or Teur, in an act of self-sacrifice
to stop the war. “Don’t repeat yourself,
and say Kaieteur Falls,” or Old-Man-
Falls Falls, she advised. “Say Kai Falls or
Kaieteur.”
In all, we spent about two hours near
Kaieteur, stopping at three lookouts, the
closest one to the water called “Rainbow
View” for the swirls of light that appear in
its mists. Our timing was good: In late
spring and summer, the river hits its peak
flow, expanding to cover more of the
rocky ledge. The waters widen up to
some 390 feet – a distance longer than a
soccer or U.S. football field, bigger than
I’d imagined.
The trails proved a revelation too.
Candace showed us the woody vines
named “cufa,” used to make furniture,
and “capadula,” boiled to make an
aphrodisiac dubbed the local Viagra. We
saw flowers blooming in purple, pink
and white and others jutting out spiky
red. My heart was full.
Others in our group felt similar joy, as we
headed back to the airstrip. “I was telling
my son: The flight alone was worth it for
the view from overhead,” said Shanta
Lall, 57, a homemaker from Guyana on
her first visit to Kaieteur. “This is a
bonus,” she said, after gazing at the falls
head-on, the air moist and fresh.
We stopped at the national park center
for water and snacks, chatting contentedly,
before flying out. A small exhibit
identified the hand-size butterflies I’d
seen as iridescent Blue Morphos, South
America’s largest. We also learned that
Angel Falls – located just west in neighboring
Venezuela – is taller but thinner
than Kaieteur, sending far less water in its
gorge and producing a less powerful
sound.
Wesley was relaxed, proud to share his
country’s top natural attraction with me.
“Coming here,” he said, “you can forget
what day of the week it is, what time of
the day it is.”
On the flight back, we circled Kaieteur
again as if to bid farewell, then descended
from the highlands to the plains and
the city. The excursion took only a morning
but created a memory for a lifetime.

A Visit to Guyana’s Kaeiteur Falls
Article and photography by Doreen Hemlock
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3-2-1 Go Tenerife!
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
That is the exact amount, 321, of volcanoes
that reside upon the
Spanish island of Tenerife, which is
astonishing given that it is a relatively small
island. That was lesson number one on a
journey that would prove to have many.
Lesson two, Tenerife is not even close to
Spain, as it is part of the fabled Canary Island
chain in the Atlantic Ocean off of the African
coast and close to Morocco and Mauritania
and is about a three hour flight from the
mainland of Spain.
Lesson number three I found out just getting
off the plane. Yes, there are lovely little
singing canary birds but that is not how this
island chain got its name. In actual fact, they
got their name from the Spanish word for
canine, which translates to a word sounding
like Canary, as wild dogs were found here
many centuries ago. The name stuck.
And that is how our trip would be, every day
we would find out some of the most fascinating
things about this island paradise. We
would venture in every direction to find ever
diversifying climates, breathtaking landscapes,
a colorful history, endless eating
options and laid back, welcoming people.
Anaga Rural Park
On our first full day, we were off to visit the
Anaga Rural Park. It was mere minutes from
our hotel in the town of La Laguna. The drive
alone was worth the venture as we climbed to
dizzying heights along winding roads that
clung to cliff edges. Once there, it felt like a
whole other world. The air was cool and
dense with fog, the trees were heavy with dew
and the mist, when it occasionally lifted,
offered spectacular glimpses of the valley
below.

I would find out later that this micro-climate
we were in was due to the famous trade winds
from the Caribbean that would hit only the
northern part of the island. For that, Tenerife
was a valuable stopover to and from the
mainland to the Spanish colonies.
With many natural trails available for hikers,
this park was an outdoorsman’s delight. The
only thing missing on our short walk through
this ‘enchanted forest’ was Snow White, the
seven dwarfs and mystical little fairytale animals.
Cave Dwellers
Not far away, the scenery would be transformed
into a barren mountainous landscape,
devoid of trees and having, of all
things, cactuses and low lying scrub. This is
Tenerife, and when you are tired of your surroundings,
just drive a few minutes. Amongst
the very rugged and hilly terrain we would
find cave dwellings. These homes had been
dug right into the mountain side, and were
part of a way of life for many as building
material for homes is hard to come by and
expensive.
The cave-homes we walked by were now
mostly used as weekend homes, but we did
meet a man who was enamored by the solitude
and tranquility. He lives a quiet life, gardening
for his produce and enjoying the fresh
air and incredible scenery. He did invite us
into his humble home, which was small and
cluttered but warm and welcoming at the
same time. He even played his guitar and
sang rural folk songs. This was a moment to
remember, so little of this magic is found in
our modern world.
A lunch like no other
With such a packed morning we were due for
a break. Our journey would bring us to ‘the
end of the world,’ or that is how locals looked
at it. We drove up the mountain to make our
way down to the sea and feast at ‘Casa
Africa’. Sounds weird to speak of Africa while
in Spain, but this slice of land is part of the
African continent. Our restaurant break would
be a favorite of mine. It was located directly
across from the ocean with a seated view of
waves smashing the shores. The menu was (of
course) freshly caught fish. Added to that was
delicious local wine and garden vegetables,
and I feasted like a king.
Capital Affair
Although La Laguna was the capital of
Tenerife for many years, it lost its title to Santa
Cruz. La Laguna was built inland to evade
pirate raids and is one of the few cities without
fortified walls for this reason. With the
changing of the times, incoming ships wanted
a direct access to a port to unload goods, and
Santa Cruz was a perfect place.
Santa Cruz might be small but it sure packs a
punch. Among many wonderful attractions
there is Las Teresitas beach which is a wonderful
man made beach and interestingly,
ship loads of sand were brought in from the
Sahara to make it.
How about the world class Adán Martín
Auditorium with a unique signature look like
no other. Then there is the fabulous annual
carnival, with a museum (La Casa del
Carnival) devoted to it and houses many
elaborate and colorful costumes from the
many years it has run.
There is a great pedestrian street to stroll or
enjoy an outdoor meal and there are also
many shopping options including the very distinctive
Spainish store, El Cortes Ingles. Add to
all this a beautiful and well-kept botanical
garden, a new cruise ship port, centuries of
history and a safe, peaceful and easy- going
atmosphere and you have remarkable and
livable city.
The number one island attraction
Parque Nacional del Teide is special place
and to not to be missed. Once again on our
visit we would find a totally unique landscape
that can only be described as being from
another planet. So much so that NASA actually
used this landscape to test its probes
bound for Mars. Our day would bring us to
the very top of Mount Tiede, an active volcano
that is also the highest point in all of Spain.
Ascending this giant can be done by foot,
which would take a few hours. We opted for a
gentle gondola ride that whisked use up in
just minutes.
see following page
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74
Once on top the air was fresh, as was the
temperature. The views were simply divine.
Many trails in many directions were available
for visitors but the going was rough. First, the
oxygen was thin which made it hard to
breathe, as well as the volcanic terrain that
was extremely uneven and at times quite challenging.
Lunch with a view
Our reward for the strenuous workout was
nothing less than spectacular, as we would
treat ourselves to world class cuisine at the
Parador de las Cañadas del Teide. This
Parador property is part of many delightful
government-owned and run hotels all across
Spain, renowned for their ideal locations, history
of the buildings and for comfortable full
service lodging.
Puerto de la Cruz
For something completely different (again),
we would visit the ever popular Puerto de la
Cruz. There we would find this well-traveled
tourist destination known for a pleasant climate,
amazing surf and the general calm and
peace of a small town atmosphere. In
strolling through this gem, I would find many
historic churches, a wonderful shopping street
and breathtaking ocean vistas. Our night
would bring us to another great meal, this
time a supper at the Restaurante Régulo
where we had local Tenerife cuisine in what is
one of the oldest buildings on the island.
Dragon Tree
One giant stands out in Tenereife. It is not
unique to this island, but the locals are very
proud of their Dragon tree. This is no ordinary
palm tree, but one that grows in a specific
way where the top of the tree pushes out
branches and those branches push out more
branches and so on and where the tree
always looks symmetrical. We had the opportunity
of seeing what is believed to be the oldest
surviving Dragon tree in the world, some
800 years old and looking healthy and
majestic. The best place to experience this
beauty is a La Casa del Drago, where we
would have coffee and samples of exotic fermented
spirits, some of which I have never
heard of, like the liquor of the Dragon tree.
Masca
A highlight of our tour would be to a secluded
and out of the way town of Masca. Close
to the sea and nestled in between mountains,
this small village is authentic and has kept its
charm even when a road was built to help
bring the many tourists who visit there.
Engineering experts have created a route to
one of the most exciting drives I have ever
been on. A true and memorable experience
on its own, the prize was being in a village
most have never heard about until a short
while ago.
Boutique Hotel San Roque
Close by was the beautiful town of Garachico,
with a long history that dates back to colonial
age and was an important stop for ships sailing
to and from the new world, but a deadly
volcano changed this area forever as it
destroyed much of the city. Visiting, we would
find ourselves at the Boutique Hotel San
Roque. This once abandoned hotel fell into
near ruins until a family adopted it, and, in a
short 20 years, brought it back to its days of
glory. Today it is a gem and the pride of the
town.
Monje Winery and Mojo Lesson
Second to last lesson, we would find out that
Tenerife not only grows grapes and produced
wines, it also had some of the most contrasting
grape varieties and wine tastes of any one
small region in the world.
Our trip to the Monje winery was a great
example of this. Owner Felipe Monje would
lead us on a visit through his estate which was
world class on its own and where he had
expanded the wine offerings from the original
four to some 18 different wines.
Loving the atmosphere of being in a winery,
our fun would continue as we would participate
in a contest to produce the best Mojo
(local spicy sauce) all the while sipping wonderful
estate wines. Although we did not win I
did pick up my last Tenerife lesson, I was now
a Mojo man!
www.webtenerife.co.uk
Canadian World Traveller Winter 2018-19