RECIPE ............................. Photo by Chloë King ....66....
RECIPE ............................. Carrot Cake Chris Bailey, Head Chef at Rathfinny Tasting Room I used to have a Michelin star restaurant in Winchester called The Black Rat. When I moved to <strong>Brighton</strong>, I was working as a private chef and doing pop-ups, one of which was here at Rathfinny. I loved the space, and then they asked me to come and discuss having a restaurant here. It’s such a beautiful location, and the people who own it are lovely. It’s all about the produce, for me. Local means the closest place I can get the best quality. People get a bit caught up with ‘on your doorstep’ which is great, but you have to remember taste, how it is raised, relationships with suppliers. That whole farm-to-fork theory is the way I like to work. It makes me happy to cook with nice produce, whether it’s a carrot or some wild teal, like we had in at the weekend. I use Namayasai farm in Lewes, who have such a lovely ethos. We use charcuterie from Beal’s at Devil’s Dyke and I try to integrate the produce grown here as well. All the food here is meant to pair with the wine, so there are things to consider, such as high acids don’t go well. So far, we’ve taken the vine leaves from the different grape varieties, chardonnay and pinot noir, while they’re young and tender. We use those to wrap things like scallops before steaming. The leaves have different flavours and do different things, much like the grapes. The wine is pressed here, underneath the restaurant, so we took the first pressing straight out at three-days-old and made wine gums. I like the idea that people can taste the wine at different stages. We’re pruning at the moment, so I’ve taken a lot of the wood to dry and hopefully cook over. The idea for this dish came from these amazing heritage carrots from our Scots supplier. It’s a light carrot cake with white raisins and a goat’s curd frosting that has a slight sourness to it. I top the cake with thinlysliced carrots poached in a meadowsweet syrup I made last summer. It goes with a roasted walnut ice cream and meadowsweet carrot gel atop a gingerbread crumb. It’s not super technical. At home, you may not have the meadowsweet, but you can still make the cake, the frosting, the ice cream. That’s what my food is about: simple, clean, not lots of aerated bubbles. It’s about flavour, really. Ingredients: 125g plain flour, 125g wholemeal flour, 25g baking powder, 2tsp cinnamon, 1tsp nutmeg, 100g desiccated coconut, ground, 5 eggs, 260g golden sugar, 175ml pomace oil (or olive oil), 500g grated red carrots, 100g white raisins. For the frosting: 125g goat’s curd, 380g icing sugar, 250g soft butter Method: To make the cake, line and grease a 12” tin; whisk up the eggs, sugar and oil until doubled in volume. Mix the remaining ingredients into the egg mixture then pour into the tin and bake at 180°C for 40 minutes. To make the frosting, whip all ingredients together thoroughly, not forgetting to let the cake cool on a wire rack completely before icing. As told to Chloë King rathfinnyestate.com/tasting-room ....67....