American World Traveler Spring 2019 Issue

volcanos, Mt. Mihara and Mt. Hachijo-Fuji
(the latter, so-named as it resembles the
shape of the iconic Mt. Fuji). Thousands of
years ago, the two separate volcanoislands
merged, creating one land body
with one peak at either end, making for
some spectacular scenery from the island’s
two panoramic lookouts.
Our very affable guide, Ms. Yumi Iwasaki,
met us at the airport and then drove us to
the History and Folk Museum where the
Director, Shoji Hosoya, provided an enthusiastic
overview of Hachijojima’s rich history.
From 1606 to 1871, the island was
actually a destination for those banished
from the mainland. One of the exhibits
told the story of an exiled “mobster” who
met a woman, exiled for prostitution. They
married, and an account of their life
together, forms the basis of a popular
Kabuki play. Nearby at Hattori Yashiki (the
Hattori Homestead), folk dancing and
taiko drumming performed by community
elders, provides a cultural window into
themes that range from exile to daily life
on the island.
One unique aspect of island life involves
the maintenance of the round- stone walls
found in many residential neighbourhoods.
Kunihito Kikuchi, who builds and repairs
the walls, told us that the ball-shaped
stones, some weighing as much as 60
kilograms (132 pounds) are naturally
shaped by the sea and are retrieved by
passing them in a fireman’s chain, from
one man to another, before they’re
secured in a wall. No mortar is used, as
the weight of the adjacent stones keeps the
wall sturdy.
And the bounties of the sea play another
role in island life. We stopped for lunch at
Aigae Suisan, a popular restaurant where
our fresh-out-of-the-water meal of Golden
Eye, Skipjack and Snapper, was accompanied
by a delicious miso soup filled with
nori (seaweed) and kamenote; shell creatures
whose name literally means ‘turtle
hands”, due to their unique shape.
But the expression, ‘there’s no accounting
for taste” came to mind shortly after lunch
when we visited the Stinky Fish store. And
there is no possibility of exaggeration
when describing this popular island treat
as ‘extremely odiferous’. Sadae
Nishihama and her sister run the 100 year
old family ‘kusaya’ (literally ‘smells bad’)
business where fish, principally horse
mackerel and flying fish, are fermented in
tanks. The actual taste of the fish is much
milder than the smell, especially when
mixed with ashitaba (a type of leafy green)
and mayonnaise, or drunk with shochu,
the alcoholic beverage of choice on the
island.
And at this stage of our visit we were quite
familiar with shochu. Earlier, we had visited
the Wine and Liquor store where 20
different types of shochu (containing 25%
to 45% alcohol) were available for selfserve
sampling and of course, to fully
immerse ourselves in island life, we felt it
our duty to try most of them.
This also prepared us for our visit the next
day with Kiyomitsu Okuyama, a 3rd generation
shochu maker who now runs the
100 year old family business. After a tour
of the distillery, we asked Kiyomitsu-san
what he liked about his business, and his
wife laughingly responded, “He loves
shochu”! Out of the four brands produced
with wheat and/or sweet potato, our verdict
was that the Tsubaki (Camellia flower)-
infused shochu was our favourite.
A visit to any island would not be complete
without some maritime adventure and so
we boarded one of the traditional fishing
boats at Yaene Port, and set out to explore
the small island of Hachijo-Kojima, just 30
minutes away. After dropping off some
fishermen on outcroppings of craggy rocks
jutting out of the choppy waters of the
Pacific Ocean, we proceeded to dock on
the island, where the only inhabitants are
Black-footed Albatross. We encountered
two of the large seabirds sitting comfortably
along the main path, and after many
photos of the island’s dramatic volcanic
scenery, we returned to the port.
Our accommodation on Hachijojima was
in a tatami room at the Hachijo View
hotel. Aside from delicious meals, the
hotel has an onsen (hot spring bath); perfect
for a relaxing soak after a day of
adventure. In fact, the island is known for
its onsen. After a short hike to explore the
beautiful Uramigataki Waterfall, we visited
both an outdoor and indoor onsen as well
as a free cliffside foot bath where visitors
can soak their feet while dreamily gazing
out on the ocean.
And for enhanced visual relaxation, Bird
of Paradise flowers, with their characteristic
orange, blue, red and yellow foliage,
grow throughout the island.
Hachijojima is the embodiment of the new
Tokyo Brand, “Old meets New”. Aside
from the beautiful vistas and culinary
scene, our three-day getaway captured
the connection between the past and the
present, very much kept alive by the amiable
island residents. On our last day, we
walked through a beautiful round-stone
wall entrance to have lunch at the popular
Kominka Kissa Nakanosato café. When
we complimented Miki-san, the
chef/owner on the traditional tea-house
style of the building and its wooded surroundings,
she explained that the property
was settled by her great-grandfather 163
years ago and she was carrying on the
family provenance.
Our visit to Hachijojima confirmed once
again, that Tokyo’s island life plays an
integral role in the unique tourism opportunities
that Tokyo has to offer.
www.hachijo.gr.jp
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American World Traveler Spring 2019