GlobeRovers Magazine, Dec 2019

Japan - A Winter Wonderland
KAWAYU ONSEN
This sleepy onsen town with a very
warming heart is idyllic in winter.
At Kushiro train station we
take the JR Semmo Line for a
one hour and 42 minute ride
north to cover the 90 kilometres (56 mi)
to Kawayu Onsen station. The small town
of Kawayu Onsen has been described as
a “geological thermal wonder” located on
the Oto River, a tributary of the Kumanogawa
River. “Kawa” means “river” and “yu”
means “hot water”. In town, hot spring
water bubbles to the surface of the crystal
clear river. The town offers a variety of ryokan
(traditional Japanese inn), minshuku
(Japanese-style bed and breakfasts), hotels,
and several quaint restaurants.
One of the best ways to enjoy a cold
winter’s night at Kawayu Onsen is to soak
in a pool that you dug by yourself while
watching the warm mist from the river
rising slowly into the air. Head for the Sennin-buro
river bath. “Sennin” means “one
thousand people” and “buro” is a bath.
“Sennin” also means “mountain man” or
“immortal mountain hermit”, a mysterious
character that lives in the mountains. This
large natural hot bath measures about 40
metres (131 ft) by 15 metres (49 ft) with a
depth of 60 centimetres (24 in) on average.
The hot water fountains at the bath are
about 70 degrees Celsius (158 Fahrenheit)
as they emerge from the ground, but are
then cooled down by the cold river water
to about 40 degrees Celsius (104 Fahrenheit).
Depending on the river flows, the
water temperature varies, so you can walk
around the bath and find a comfortable
water temperature. On some days the
bathing area is lit with lamps and strings of
small lights.
The town also has a few free foot-baths
right by the side of the street which is a
nice way to warm up your cold feet.
Just over three kilometres (1.9 mi) west
of the town are the Iozan sulphurous steam
vents that are part of an active volcano. As
you approach the area you will hear loud
hissing noises coming from the bright yellow
sulphur mounts and the strong pungent
smell of sulphur in the air. The area was
used for sulphur mining during the Meiji
era (1868 to 1912).
Nearby Mount Iozan is a 512 metre
(1,680 ft) high active volcano sitting inside
the giant Kussharo caldera and is the source
of the hot springs in the area, such as
Kawayu Onsen. Mount Iozan’s name literally
means “sulphur mountain”. The local
Ainu people called it “atosanupuri,” which
means “naked mountain.” The mountain is
characterized as such because the surface is
bare and has a reddish-brown colour.
Feature • Japan | 31