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Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20 Issue

Now in our 18th year of publishing, Canadian World Traveller explores the culture and history of worldwide destinations, sharing the adventure of discovery with our readers and motivating them to make their travel dreams a reality. Published quarterly, CWT helps sophisticated, independent Canadian travellers choose their next destination by offering a lively blend of intelligent, informative articles and tantalizing photographic images from our World’s best destinations, cruises, accommodations and activities to suit every traveller's taste.

Now in our 18th year of publishing, Canadian World Traveller explores the culture and history of worldwide destinations, sharing the adventure of discovery with our readers and motivating them to make their travel dreams a reality. Published quarterly, CWT helps sophisticated, independent Canadian travellers choose their next destination by offering a lively blend of intelligent, informative articles and tantalizing photographic images from our World’s best destinations, cruises, accommodations and activities to suit every traveller's taste.

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Czechia Japan Munich Yucatan China<br />

C A N A D I A N<br />

W O R L D<br />

<strong>Traveller</strong><br />

ALREADY 18 YEARS WINTER <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong><br />

Exploring the hidden gems in<br />

xtraordinary<br />

xtremadura


Published by<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong><br />

5473 Royalmount, suite 224<br />

TMR (Montreal) Qc H4P 1J3<br />

Welcome to <strong>World</strong> Traveler<br />

American <strong>World</strong> Traveler<br />

347 5th Ave, suite 1402<br />

New York, NY 10016<br />

Tel: 1-855-738-8232<br />

www.worldtraveler.travel<br />

info@worldtraveler.travel<br />

info@canadianworldtraveller.com<br />

info@americanworldtraveler.com<br />

Publisher<br />

Michael Morcos<br />

Editor-in-chief<br />

Greg James<br />

Contributing Editor<br />

David J. Cox<br />

Graphic Department<br />

Al Cheong<br />

Advertising Department<br />

Leo Santini<br />

Marketing Department<br />

Tania Tassone<br />

Distribution<br />

Royce Dillon<br />

Senior Travel Writers:<br />

Susan Campbell<br />

Steve Gillick<br />

Regular Contributors:<br />

Habeeb Salloum<br />

Jennifer Merrick<br />

Olivia Balsinger<br />

Mike Cohen<br />

Ilona Kauremszky<br />

Natalie Ayotte<br />

Jasmine Morcos<br />

Daniel Smajovits<br />

Cherie DeLory<br />

Lisa TE Sonne<br />

Alexandra Cohen<br />

Johanna Read<br />

Mathieu Morcos<br />

Gregory Caltabanis<br />

Anne-Marie Macloughlin<br />

In this issue, we start our world-wide<br />

adventure in the orient with a visit to<br />

Japan to find Niigata, ‘The<br />

Heartbeat of Sado Island’, as well as get<br />

some insight into the upcoming Tokyo <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

summer games. We then head to China to<br />

taste some deliciously spicy Sichuan Cuisine<br />

in the province of the same name.<br />

Much further east we jet-off to Europe with a<br />

full itinerary. Starting in the far north, we visit<br />

the small up and coming destination of<br />

Estonia. In central Europe, we visit the fairytale<br />

cities of the Czech Republic, have some<br />

home cooking in Budapest and experience<br />

the old and new in Munich.<br />

While still in Europe, our journey takes a<br />

new twist with two cruises. The first is upon<br />

the canals of Europe to find the secrets of<br />

luxury barging through Italy, Scotland,<br />

Holland and France. Next, we enjoy a<br />

Mediterranean ocean cruise to find a<br />

‘Romantic Europe on the Reimagined<br />

‘Crystal Serenity’’. Lastly, we head to out to<br />

‘Explore the hidden gems in extraordinary<br />

Extremadura’, in the Spanish south-west.<br />

Onwards, we head to North America and<br />

experience two different kinds of cruises on<br />

opposite ends of the continent. In Alaska, we<br />

‘UnPlug with UnCruise’ and find both beauty<br />

and serenity before partaking in a<br />

Bahamas cruise aboard Norwegian Cruise<br />

Lines newest ship the ‘Encore’.<br />

While in the Caribbean we visit Cuba’s less<br />

traveled but fascinating natural wonders.<br />

Close by we find the best of ‘Mexico’s<br />

Magical Yucatan State’ before heading to<br />

the opposite end of this beautiful county, to<br />

the Pacific coast to get ‘A Peek Inside the Los<br />

Cabos International Film Festival’.<br />

Finally, we end our voyages of discovery in<br />

the USA by ‘California Dreaming in<br />

Anaheim’ to some exciting and diverse<br />

offerings before we head inland to the state<br />

of Idaho to enjoy some refreshing home<br />

brew and find this is no ‘fly over state’.<br />

Happy travels!<br />

Disclaimer: <strong>World</strong> Traveler has made every effort to<br />

verify that the information provided in this publication<br />

is as accurate as possible. However, we accept<br />

no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience<br />

sustained by anyone resulting from the information<br />

contained herein nor for any information<br />

provided by our advertisers.


Destinations<br />

Crusing section<br />

34<br />

Czechia 8 Japan 10<br />

Anaheim 12 Sichuan 64<br />

Cruise News<br />

UnCruise<br />

Sky Princess<br />

Crystal Serenity<br />

Luxury Barges<br />

NCL Encore<br />

Stay & Play - 50<br />

the Yucatan 66 Spain 68<br />

Los Cabos<br />

Around the <strong>World</strong> 14<br />

The Mansion Hotel, Bali


8<br />

Fairytale Czech cities and towns<br />

Article and photography by Michael Morcos<br />

Beyond the historic, beautiful and<br />

much traveled Prague is another<br />

Czech Republic waiting to be<br />

explored. There you will be away from the<br />

many tourist buses, packed streets and the<br />

hordes found at the major attractions and<br />

instead to a place that could easily be<br />

describe as fairytale destination.<br />

Our travels would bring us to cities and towns<br />

that most have never even heard of. The likes<br />

of Litomysl, Olomouc and Brno. These are<br />

just a few of the many charming villages and<br />

towns that are waiting to be discovered. The<br />

drive away from Prague was a delight on its<br />

own, with a lush countryside of rolling hills,<br />

forests, farms and tranquil villages, I enjoyed<br />

every moment and looked forward to what<br />

was a wonderful tour of the Czech Republic.<br />

Litomysl<br />

Imagine this setting in Litomysl, a quaint<br />

Public Square, cobblestone streets, a beautiful<br />

Renaissance chateau, a renowned music<br />

composer, a mad artist’s house and on this<br />

warm, sunny day: a joyous wedding celebration<br />

and a quaint village festival. Could not<br />

have scripted this visit any better.<br />

Litomysl Castle is one of the largest<br />

Renaissance castles in the Czech Republic. It is<br />

owned by the Czech state. Fans of castles will<br />

appreciate that it is a wonderful and outstanding<br />

example of the arcade castle, with High-<br />

Baroque features added in the 18th century.<br />

All these qualities have led to the chateau<br />

being added to the UNESCO world heritage<br />

list in 1999. The chateau has one more<br />

secret, which is a Baroque theatre with wellpreserved<br />

Baroque scenery and costumes.<br />

The historically significant architecture continues<br />

in the magnificent Old town hall, originally<br />

built in 1418, with its clock tower is among<br />

the main features of the town’s skyline. Added


to this is the unique Josef Vachala street, a<br />

colorful narrow street with a classic archway<br />

and black and white pictures all along the<br />

wall.<br />

Olomouc<br />

A fairytale setting indeed. In my time in<br />

Olomouc I would enjoy incredible beauty and<br />

history though the well preserved and incredibly<br />

clean historic center and I would have this<br />

city’s magnificent restored buildings and<br />

small alleys virtually to myself. Luckily, and for<br />

the time being, Olomouc is practically devoid<br />

of tourists and so I would only share this wonderful<br />

experience with the cheery, helpful<br />

locals.<br />

Lunch, as in all our Czech meals throughout<br />

this trip, was amazing, hearty, tasty and delicious.<br />

All our lunches went down well with one<br />

of any of the great Czech beers. One meal<br />

saw us visit the Long Story Short Hostel and<br />

Café which is situated on a hill and the alfresco<br />

dining space gave wonderful views of a<br />

park. In the fresh air we would feast on local<br />

favorites.<br />

Olomouc is full of some of the most beautiful<br />

Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque religious<br />

sights thanks to its history. These types of<br />

buildings are why the city was considered the<br />

seat of Catholic archbishops since the Middle<br />

Ages, and its history is just waiting to be discovered!<br />

With each step, visitors are surprised by the<br />

large number of important and majestic monuments<br />

– imposing and picturesque churches,<br />

rich palaces of the burghers, monumental<br />

monasteries.<br />

Filled with amazing features for all tastes, the<br />

city is home to the Column of the Holy Trinity,<br />

a UNESCO site and a Baroque monument<br />

celebrating the Catholic Church and faith.<br />

The column was also meant to represent local<br />

patriotism, since all artists and craftsmen<br />

working on it were Olomouc citizens.<br />

Next up is the Archbishop’s Palace, the site of<br />

many historic events featuring Emperors,<br />

Russian tsars, Empresses and Popes.<br />

Constructed in the 17th century, the tour you<br />

can go on will explore the well-preserved decorations<br />

from the Rococo, Empire, and Neo-<br />

Baroque periods.<br />

The Archdiocesan Museum boasts a permanent<br />

exhibition introducing the spiritual culture<br />

of the Olomouc Archdiocese. A picture<br />

gallery shows marvelous paintings collected<br />

by Olomouc bishops since the 16th century<br />

and the "Mozarteum" concert hall is a main<br />

feature of this dazzling museum. It was<br />

named to commemorate the stay of the<br />

famous composer at this place.<br />

Brno<br />

Yes, another day and another amazing Czech<br />

city! Brno is the second biggest Czech city and<br />

although it has a sizeable population with a<br />

tram system and department stores, you<br />

would never feel this from vising the historic<br />

city center as it is clean, organized and rather<br />

tranquil.<br />

My accommodations could not be any better<br />

situated nor more opulent as the Barceló Brno<br />

Palace. The beautiful building itself is a historic<br />

landmark that went through extensive<br />

renovations and is a star hotel property in<br />

Brno and being so well situated I would venture<br />

about and return several times to rest and<br />

refresh.<br />

Spilberk Castle is a 13th century castle built<br />

on the hilltop that was gradually turned into a<br />

huge Baroque citadel, once considered the<br />

harshest prison in the Austro-Hungarian<br />

empire and made famous by many of the<br />

country’s stories and tales.<br />

The Brno Vegetable Market, nicknamed<br />

Zelňák, has been a place where the local citizens<br />

have bought fruit, vegetables, flowers,<br />

and more for over a century. Visitors can head<br />

to the lower part of the square where they can<br />

enter an underground labyrinth, a unique system<br />

of passages and cellars from the Middle<br />

Ages. The square also features a huge<br />

Baroque fountain, called ‘Parnas’ and the<br />

Reduta, one of the oldest theatre buildings in<br />

central Europe, watched over by a statue of<br />

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.<br />

Moving deeper into the city, visitors can enjoy<br />

the Old City Hall Observation Tower, with a<br />

reputation built on numerous old myths and<br />

legends associated to it. The Old Town Hall is<br />

the oldest and most interesting historical<br />

building in Brno, even though it was the venue<br />

for council meetings and court proceedings. It<br />

has seen thousands of official ceremonies<br />

and hosted notable guests. It was also the<br />

town hall’s city jail.<br />

Nuclear Shelter 10-Z is one of the most<br />

unique places a world traveler can visit. Once<br />

a nuclear bomb shelter, this underground<br />

structure is now a retro hotel, and not much<br />

has been changed from the original layout!<br />

The rooms still have the original bunk beds<br />

and half-century-old phones to contact the<br />

reception area. It is a unique opportunity to<br />

get a real in-person experience of a life in<br />

shelter!<br />

Last night in fairytale land and last one in<br />

Brno would have me bar hopping to some<br />

out of the norm establishments where the<br />

mixologists prepared just about anything you<br />

desire. So was it on our last and maybe best<br />

place: the Super Panda Circus could only be<br />

described as sort of a ‘speak easy’ and even<br />

thought do not even have a website nor a<br />

street sign, they are a very popular bar.<br />

Imagine yourselves in a place resembling<br />

something from an Alice in Wonderland setting<br />

with hosts dressed like figures from an<br />

adventure comic book and you can understand<br />

why this was such a memorable night.<br />

A visit to the Czech Republic would not be<br />

complete without a visit to some of the rural<br />

and out of the way destinations. Our tour<br />

brought us to world other then what is viewed<br />

and visited by the masses through-out<br />

Europe. And for now at least, they can be<br />

yours to explore and clam as your own fairytale<br />

land.<br />

www.czechtourism.com<br />

9<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


10<br />

The Heartbeat of Sado Island, Niigata, Japan<br />

Article and photography by Steve Gillick<br />

Masami “Sami” Miyazaki greeted<br />

us at the Tatakokan, the Sado<br />

Island Taiko Center. While ‘Taiko’<br />

refers to any type of drum, the word is often<br />

associated with the famed Kodo drummers<br />

who perform around the world and in fact,<br />

Kodo Village lies next to Tatakokan.<br />

On the way there, we drove on some fairly<br />

isolated roads, past orchards bursting with<br />

brilliant orange persimmons and glimpses<br />

of autumn colors emerging on the treelined<br />

slopes of the Kosado Mountains.<br />

Sami explained that Kodo means “heart-<br />

beat” and mirrors the power of nature in<br />

the trees, mountains and wind. She noted<br />

that historically, drumming established an<br />

auditory connection between the gods and<br />

the local people.<br />

And to prove the point she produced thunder<br />

from “Yama imo Kun”, one of the two<br />

huge drums made from a 600 year old<br />

Zelcova tree, and named for its resemblance<br />

to a sticky mountain potato. Trying<br />

my own hand on percussion only made me<br />

appreciate the skill and hours of practice it<br />

took Sami to produce the Kodo heartbeat<br />

of nature that was in fact all around us.<br />

In the past, Sado Island was known for its<br />

isolation. Beginning in the early 8th century<br />

it was regarded as a place of exile for<br />

court nobles who criticized the government<br />

and dissidents such as Zeami who popularized<br />

Noh theatre and Nichirin Shionen, the<br />

founder of the Nichirin School of<br />

Buddhism.<br />

However today, traveling voluntarily to<br />

Sado Island is relatively easy. It’s roughly a<br />

2 ½ hour train ride from Tokyo Station to<br />

Niigata on the north coast of Honshu<br />

(Japan’s main island), and from there it’s a<br />

short bus or taxi ride to the Sado Island


Ferry where a jetfoil takes one hour to arrive<br />

at the port of Ryotsu. (There’s also a car<br />

ferry that takes about 2 ½ hours to reach<br />

the island).<br />

Our goals for this visit were simple. We<br />

wanted to explore as much of the butterfly<br />

shaped Island as possible, from Big Sado<br />

(the northern wing) to Small Sado in the<br />

south, indulge in the island’s renowned<br />

fresh seafood and some of the six sake<br />

breweries, visit historic temples and shrines,<br />

take tons of photos…and find the endangered<br />

Toki. We did it all!<br />

Throwing our luggage into our rented pale<br />

green Nissan March, it was simply a matter<br />

of following the coast road north to the very<br />

tip of Big Sado. ‘Futatsugame’, meaning<br />

two turtles, is a gigantic rock joined to the<br />

mainland by a small spit. Known as one of<br />

the 100 best swimming places in Japan, the<br />

area offers nature trails and beautiful<br />

coastal scenery. In fact the Kaifu Coast,<br />

which stretches along Big Sado, is a showcase<br />

of absolutely stunning vistas that<br />

include dramatic rock shapes, crashing<br />

waves and picturesque highway tunnels and<br />

bridges.<br />

At Sado Hakko Kabushiki Gaisha sake<br />

brewery, the speciality is milky/cloudy sakes<br />

(Nigori) that have been coarsely filtered to<br />

allow rice particles to remain in the liquid.<br />

This increases both the flavour and the<br />

mouth-feel. We sampled four sakes from<br />

‘smooth’ to almost ‘chewy’, due to the thick<br />

rice content.<br />

We overnighted at the Tabino Hotel in Sado<br />

City which turned out to be a wise decision.<br />

When we asked about local dining spots,<br />

the hotel manager, Mitsuru Sasaki, drove us<br />

to an excellent local Kaiten Sushi restaurant<br />

called Maruishi. (Kaiten refers to the sushi<br />

dishes being displayed on a conveyor belt).<br />

In this case the chef said he would prepare<br />

the dishes, fresh, as we ordered them. And<br />

so after an appetizer of Kintsuru, a delicious<br />

clear, dry Sado Island sake, we ordered<br />

about two dozen different dishes, all of<br />

which arrived on coloured plates, with each<br />

color representing the price of the dish. At<br />

the end of the meal, the plates are added<br />

up, along with the empty sake bottles to<br />

produce the bill. Our meal included ultrafresh,<br />

melt-in-the mouth kampache (yellowtail),<br />

buri (amberjack), octopus, tuna belly,<br />

sardine, ikura (salmon roe), uni (sea<br />

urchin), whitefish and more.<br />

Tokis were the priority the next morning as<br />

we were eager to discover more about<br />

Island life. The Japanese Crested Ibis was<br />

declared extinct in Japan in <strong>20</strong>03, but then,<br />

with a pair on loan from China, the population<br />

rebounded and can now be found<br />

exclusively in the rice fields of Sado Island.<br />

The closest rice fields just happened to be<br />

five minutes from the hotel. Camera zoom<br />

lenses were brought out and in no time at<br />

all we found ourselves alone in golden yellow<br />

rice fields, with the purple haze of<br />

mountains in the distance, and a small<br />

flock of white/pink-feathered, red-faced,<br />

long-billed Tokis, feeding, socializing and<br />

preening in front of us. Birders take note!<br />

And on the theme of discovery we then set<br />

out to see the famous split-mountain by the<br />

Sado Gold Mine. Mining dates back to the<br />

early 1600’s when the Tokugawa<br />

Shogunate minted gold coins on Sado.<br />

Gold veins were accessed by tunnels and<br />

found on mountain sides; hence the ‘split’.<br />

At the visitors center, the self-guided visit<br />

includes a walk through one of the tunnels<br />

where life-sized dioramas, complete with<br />

action figures (the signs ask you not to<br />

touch the robots), reveal the working conditions,<br />

the very basic tools used to dig the<br />

long tunnels, and even the feelings of the<br />

men (“I want to see my girlfriend and I want<br />

to drink sake as soon as I can leave this<br />

place”). It’s extremely well done. In the<br />

gold museum, you can try your hand (literally)<br />

at lifting a 12.5 kilo bar of gold<br />

through an opening in the display case.<br />

And to complete the mining adventure,<br />

there are picturesque ruins of some of the<br />

mining facilities in Aikawa, a short drive<br />

away.<br />

Heading toward Small Sado, we stopped<br />

for lunch at Sakana Dojo Nagahamaso, a<br />

restaurant on the water’s edge, renowned<br />

11<br />

for its excellent seafood, and then after<br />

drumming at Tatakokan, we drove to the<br />

historic village of Shukunegi.<br />

It was here that wooden cargo ships called<br />

‘kitamaebune’ were built in the mid-17th<br />

century. The importance of the village was<br />

formally acknowledged in 1991 for its traditional<br />

close-quartered houses, many with<br />

shingled roofs held down by stones, and<br />

including the postcard-famous image of<br />

the Triangle House (it was moved to the village<br />

but had to be reconstructed to fit into<br />

a triangular lot).<br />

On our last morning on Sado Island we visited<br />

some of the historic temples and<br />

shrines. Myousenji Temple has a rare Five-<br />

Story Pagoda along with a small lake garden.<br />

To enter Sado Kokubunji Temple you<br />

have to pass by the scowling, protective Nio<br />

guardians. The Ozen Shrine is next to a<br />

beautiful outdoor Noh Theatre, and the<br />

utterly amazing Seisuiji Temple, with its<br />

main hall dating to 1730, is dreamily<br />

accessed by a stone path lined with 400<br />

year old Cedar trees.<br />

The heartbeat of Sado Island translates into<br />

the voices of the friendly Islanders, the colorful<br />

history and culture, the fresh seafood,<br />

the resonance of a Taiko drum, a glimpse<br />

of a Toki, and the sensation of the wind as<br />

you gaze at the spectacular, rugged coastal<br />

scenery. This was by far, one of the most<br />

enjoyable and inspiring trips we’ve ever<br />

taken in Japan.<br />

www.ilovejapan.ca<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


12<br />

Visit Dana Point<br />

California Dreaming in Anaheim<br />

by Jennifer Merrick<br />

What is it about California that<br />

attracts dreamers? Take<br />

Anaheim, for example. Located<br />

about an hour south of Los Angeles, this<br />

region’s landscape and sunny climate has<br />

ignited utopian fantasies throughout its history.<br />

In 1857, German immigrants purchased<br />

land with the ambitious aim of a co-operative<br />

wine-making venture. In 1876, Polish aristocrats<br />

and artists packed up their belongings,<br />

books and jewels and journeyed here to live<br />

out their romanticized notions of returning to<br />

nature.<br />

“What wild dreams we dreamt,” wrote<br />

actress Helena Modrzejewska in her memoir.<br />

“I was to give up the stage and live in the<br />

midst of nature…under the blue skies of<br />

California.”<br />

Unlike the successful German wine-makers,<br />

the commune quickly dissolved. Almost a<br />

century later, one of America’s most famous<br />

visionaries, Walt Disney, purchased 160<br />

acres of land in the area with the idea of<br />

building “The Happiest Place on Earth”.<br />

Disneyland opened its doors in 1955, and<br />

visitors have been coming in droves ever<br />

since. In <strong>20</strong>18, Anaheim welcomed a staggering<br />

24.4 million visitors, who came to fulfill<br />

their own dreams. And there are plenty of<br />

ways to do that for every generation of the<br />

family.<br />

Fly the Millennium Falcon<br />

Star Wars Galaxy Edge opened last May at<br />

Disneyland (and in Orlando in August) to<br />

rave reviews. Whether you’re a diehard fan<br />

or are just vaguely familiar with the Han Solo<br />

and Chewbacca crowd, you’ll be impressed<br />

with this recreation of the Black Spire<br />

Outpost. The flagship attraction to their new<br />

expansion is the life-sized replica of the<br />

Millennium Falcon, which takes visitors on an<br />

interactive, intergalactic smuggling mission.<br />

Other cool experiences include drinking blue<br />

milk, building a custom lightsaber and<br />

assembling a droid.<br />

Immerse yourself in the magic of movies<br />

It’s worth the hour drive to see your favourite<br />

films come to life on a grand scale at<br />

Universal Studios, Hollywood. For<br />

Potterheads, there’s the Wizarding <strong>World</strong> of<br />

Harry Potter, where you can wander the<br />

laneways of Hogsmeade amidst the snowcovered<br />

buildings and the castle itself.<br />

Indulge your inner wizard by choosing a<br />

wand at Ollivanders Wand Shop, sipping<br />

butter beer at the Three Broomsticks<br />

Restaurant or going on a 3D interactive<br />

adventure. Harry Potter and the Forbidden<br />

Journey sweeps you through the dark forest<br />

and into a heart-stopping Quidditch match.<br />

A classic attraction is the Universal Studio<br />

Tour, which supercharges riders into a highstakes<br />

race before catapulting into the jungle,<br />

where King Kong himself is waiting.


13<br />

Universal Studios<br />

Visit Annaheim<br />

Ride the Wild West<br />

Before Mickey Mouse, there was Knott’s Berry Farm, California’s original<br />

theme park. Here the Wild West beckons with pistol-carrying costumed<br />

characters, saloons, general stores and even gold panning.<br />

Rides range from an easy journey through gold mining history to the<br />

adrenaline pumping HangTime coaster, with the steepest drop in the<br />

state. Next door is Knott’s Soak City Waterpark with 22 slides plus the<br />

750,000-gallon Tidal Wave Bay pool. Whatever your family decides to<br />

do, don’t forget to try the Knott’s fried chicken and a piece of<br />

Boysenberry pie. After all, it was a berry roadside stand and restaurant<br />

that first attracted visitors to this family fun attraction.<br />

Indulge in retail therapy<br />

From high-end fashion to bargain finds, Orange County has no shortage<br />

of retailers. Fashion Island in Newport Beach and South Coast<br />

Plaza are destinations themselves for shoppers with dining and special<br />

events. For retail treasure hunters, there’s the Outlets of Orange with<br />

deals on brand names like Ralph Lauren, Nordstrom Rack, NIKE<br />

(Factory Store), Bloomingdales and Calvin Klein.<br />

Imagine your own Californian dream<br />

The California coast had a magnetic quality that drew me in instantly,<br />

and so my visit to the quintessential beach community of Dana Point<br />

was a definite highlight. A 45-minute drive from Disneyland and I<br />

reached the dramatic coastline with wildlife, nature, and beaches. The<br />

Laguna Beach Marriott Resort had rooms with coastal views and spa<br />

treatments that included vitamin-infused facials, tides and stone massages<br />

and sea clay body wraps.<br />

Dana Point had no shortage of activities to choose from: Spot whales<br />

and dolphins on whale-watching excursions; learn about ocean science<br />

and maritime history at the Ocean Institute; hike up the Bluff Top<br />

Trail, a cliff-side path with a panoramic view of Dana Point Harbour.<br />

Or simply relax on the sandy shores of Doheny State Beach, which has<br />

long stretches of protected coastline with campground facilities and a<br />

popular surf spot on the north end of the park.<br />

Speaking of riding the waves, don’t miss out on Surf City, USA.<br />

Huntington Beach is the state’s ultimate beach town to hang loose and<br />

soak up the SoCal lifestyle. My favourite attraction: the sunset at<br />

Huntington Pier. Watching the orange and pink streaked sky silhouetted<br />

with kites, surfers and beach-goers, I found my own California<br />

dream taking shape.<br />

And what wild dreams I dreamt…<br />

I’m on a surf board and the wave of a lifetime picks me up, and I ride<br />

its powerful crest savouring the salty air and sense of freedom --all<br />

under the blue Californian sky.<br />

Mmmm, maybe I’ll come back and take a lesson. Hopefully, it’ll work<br />

out better than it did for the Polish entourage.<br />

What is it about California that attracts dreamers?<br />

www.visitanaheim.org<br />

Jennifer Merrick<br />

Jennifer Merrick<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


14<br />

Around The <strong>World</strong><br />

(in <strong>20</strong> pages)<br />

Estonia: Northern Europe’s Emerging Destination<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

Over the past three centuries, the history of Estonia, the tiny<br />

country in Northern Europe on the Baltic Sea, has been intermingled<br />

with that of Russia, whose influence is seen today in<br />

the details of the Russian Orthodox churches and architecture<br />

of Tallinn - the medieval capital of the country. In recent years,<br />

however, Estonia has emerged as one of the top destinations<br />

for European travel, as it contains a storybook atmosphere and<br />

amiable population. It is comprised of charming rural villages<br />

and beautiful landscapes, unspoiled marshlands, beaches, and<br />

swamplands. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, more<br />

than half of the country has been remarked with conserved<br />

forests, making it an ideal place for active travelers to explore<br />

the rugged wild. The untouched nature is home to some incredible<br />

wildlife, as well as several craters and stunning waterfalls.<br />

In addition to its natural beauty, the culture and indigenous<br />

heritage of this Baltic country weaves together a fascinating tale<br />

of tradition, geopolitics, and the resulting identity of eclecticism.<br />

Between its innovative culinary creations such as parrot<br />

themed cocktails at Parrot MiniBar in Tallinn, to the luxurious<br />

accommodations at the 16th century Vihula Manor Country<br />

Club & Spa, Estonia offers a diversity in eclectic activities for<br />

diverse travelers.<br />

www.visitestonia.com<br />

China Tourism Introduces<br />

New Brand Logo<br />

China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made<br />

“Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a<br />

new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the<br />

new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient<br />

Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the background<br />

means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around.<br />

The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts - vitality, harmony and<br />

green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for<br />

thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents<br />

China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.<br />

The Tokyo <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

Olympic and Paralympic Games<br />

by Steve Gillick<br />

Sports tourism aficionados and Japanophiles are all abuzz with the<br />

advent of the Tokyo <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> Olympics that take place from July 24 to<br />

August 9, and the Paralympics, from August 25 to September 6. To<br />

date, some 8 million tickets have been sold through lottery, with<br />

more slated to go on sale in the spring of <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>. And the demand<br />

to be part of history has been equally impressive with 500,000<br />

applying for one of the 10,000 Olympic torchbearer positions and<br />

<strong>20</strong>0,000 applications vying for the 80,000 volunteer positions at<br />

the Games (and by the way, speaking Japanese is not a strict<br />

requirement).<br />

Meredith Thatcher, the Manager of International Communications<br />

for the Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and<br />

Paralympic Games noted that these Olympics would set new standards.<br />

The legacy will be to show how a major sustainable event<br />

can be successfully held in the middle of a major city. To that end,<br />

ordinary citizens are already involved in contributing used plastic<br />

waste and electronics (“my old telephone is part of that Olympic<br />

medal”). There will be no formal Olympic Village as the goal is to<br />

showcase the venues, such as the new Olympic Stadium, along<br />

with the city hosting the event. And for the youth, five new games,<br />

Baseball, Karate, Skateboarding, Sport Climbing and Surfing will<br />

be nothing short of exciting and inspirational with a legacy of<br />

encouraging participation.<br />

From a tourism perspective, the Games will include competitions in<br />

Tokyo, Saitama, Izu, Fukushima, Yokohama, Sapporo and other<br />

cities.<br />

North Americans looking for tickets are advised to sign up with an<br />

Authorized Ticket Reseller (ATR).<br />

www.tokyo<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>.org/en<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


16<br />

Good to Go!<br />

Great Travel Gear and Gadgets<br />

Our travel specialists review the best travel gear and gadgets to get you on the go better<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


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C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d!


18<br />

Intrepid Travel<br />

Launches Over 100 New Tours for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

The world’s largest adventure company,<br />

Intrepid Travel, has unveiled<br />

over 100 new tours for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>,<br />

meaning the tour operator will boast more<br />

than 1,000 itineraries with over 13,000<br />

departures in the coming year - up 11%<br />

from <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>.<br />

From “dark tourism” to culturally-immersive<br />

festivals and Olympic-sized adventures,<br />

these new itineraries embrace the<br />

Intrepid way of traveling: utilizing local<br />

guides, accommodations and businesses<br />

to provide real-life experiences in a<br />

responsible manner.<br />

The B-Corp certified travel company will<br />

also be introducing a number of new destinations<br />

to its roster, including Sudan and<br />

Scotland, and will officially become a<br />

seven-continent operator with the launch<br />

of a new program of sustainable smallgroup<br />

Antarctica expeditions on the newly<br />

refurbished Ocean Endeavour ship, which<br />

will begin departing in October.<br />

Some exciting new offerings for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

include:<br />

Destinations Beyond the Headlines:<br />

Greenland: Greenland had its moment<br />

in the spotlight when President Trump<br />

expressed interest in buying the country,<br />

where the tourism industry is just starting<br />

to bloom. As a result, Intrepid saw a huge<br />

spike in interest for its new <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

Greenland Expedition, which explores the<br />

local Inuit culture, Nuuk - the country’s


modern capitol, and the famed Ilulissat Ice<br />

fjord.<br />

Ukraine & Chernobyl: Go beyond the<br />

HBO miniseries madness and explore<br />

Ukraine with Intrepid Travel’s new<br />

Highlights of Ukraine trip. Tapping into the<br />

dark tourism trend, this tour respectfully<br />

and safely visits the Chernobyl disaster site<br />

and travels through the beautiful scenery<br />

and charming towns of Ukraine from Kiev<br />

to Lviv. Additional new trips to Ukraine<br />

include an epic journey through all of<br />

Eastern Europe, and <strong>20</strong>- and 13-day itineraries<br />

that cover Moldova, Ukraine and<br />

Romania.<br />

Japan: With Japan hosting the <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

Summer Olympics, travelers who want to<br />

get active in the spirit of the athletes can<br />

take on a trekking trip along the ancient<br />

countryside trails of Koya-san and<br />

Kumano Kodo. Or, cold-weather lovers<br />

can experience a winter wonderland with<br />

a tour of Japan’s northernmost island,<br />

Hokkaido, that includes days of dog sledding,<br />

whiskey distilleries and ice bars.<br />

Turkey: Despite political concerns, Turkey<br />

remains one of Intrepid Travel’s fastest<br />

growing destinations, with four new itineraries<br />

available in <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> to meet demand.<br />

Travelers can island hop on a coastal<br />

cruise, dive into the country’s history on<br />

Turkey Uncovered, discover the hidden<br />

gems of Turkey’s backroads and double<br />

the adventure with the Turkey and Georgia<br />

tour.<br />

Unexplored Africa<br />

Expanding beyond popular itineraries<br />

available in East and Southern Africa,<br />

Intrepid Travel is encouraging travelers to<br />

head to coastal West Africa, where they<br />

can discover the wildlife rich wetlands of<br />

Senegal and Gambia or dive deep into<br />

the often misunderstood Voodoo religion<br />

in Benin, Togo and Ghana.<br />

Cultural Festival Trips<br />

Always looking for a reason to celebrate?<br />

Dive into cultural celebrations across the<br />

globe. Travelers can experience the<br />

Baining Firedance Festival with a local village<br />

in Papua New Guinea, Samba their<br />

way through Rio’s Carnival, see the colors<br />

of Holi in Rajasthan, and celebrate Mardis<br />

Gras as it should be – from the back of a<br />

float.<br />

Unique Trekking Opportunities<br />

With trekking trips gaining popularity and<br />

well-loved trails experiencing overcrowding,<br />

Intrepid Travel has scoped out new,<br />

equally rugged and beautiful routes across<br />

the globe for those looking to hit the trails<br />

and take in views. These unique hikes and<br />

climbs include traversing the<br />

Transcaucasian Trail in Armenia, trekking<br />

from Portugal to Spain on the coastal<br />

Camino Trail and climbing the summits of<br />

Simien Mountain National Park in<br />

Ethiopia.<br />

19<br />

About Intrepid Travel<br />

Intrepid Travel is a global adventure travel company<br />

that has been taking travellers off the beaten<br />

track to discover the world's most amazing places<br />

for 30 years. The company offers more than 1,000<br />

trips in more than 1<strong>20</strong> countries and on every continent.<br />

Every trip is designed to truly experience<br />

local culture - to meet local people, try local food,<br />

take local transport and stay in local accommodation.<br />

A world leader in responsible travel, Intrepid’s<br />

award-winning tour leaders, small group sizes and<br />

included activities mean they offer travellers great<br />

value for money.<br />

www.intrepidtravel.com<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


A Peek Inside the Los Cabos International Film Festival<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

Move over Sundance and Cannes.<br />

Besides its intriguing, unique landscapes<br />

of beaches, deserts and<br />

mountainous cliffs, Los Cabos has yet another<br />

reason why you should visit. The Los Cabos<br />

International Film Festival, which occurs each<br />

November in this municipality located at the<br />

southern tip of Mexico's Baja California<br />

Peninsula, is continually growing in prominence.<br />

Beginning in <strong>20</strong>12, the mission of The Los<br />

Cabos Film Festival is to “positively contribute<br />

to the growth of the global film culture, focusing<br />

especially in Mexico, Canada, and the<br />

United States.” The festival’s aim is not only to<br />

showoff domestic and international talent, but<br />

to also highlight the destination’s beauty and<br />

culture on a world stage. The films, of course,<br />

are a draw in themselves and often the premier<br />

for the Latin American market. In <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>,<br />

the festival debuted The Irishman, and the<br />

legendary Robert De Niro was spotted on the<br />

red carpet, amongst a slew of other A-Lister<br />

Hollywood figures. Los Cabos is a playground<br />

for movie stars all seasons.<br />

Throughout the festival, there are no shortage<br />

of parties and events happening in Los<br />

Cabos. The whole surrounding radiates energy,<br />

with bars, restaurants, and lounges catering<br />

to their international visitors. It is a prime<br />

opportunity to indulge in luxury experiences<br />

and also network during hosted conversations,<br />

dinner parties, and less formally, over a<br />

beer on the exquisite Los Cabos beaches.<br />

a town an hour outside glamorous Los<br />

Cabos, where the desert greets the striking<br />

mountains - is an experience in itself. Here art<br />

reigns, and between the murals and architecture<br />

of the charming streets, it is easy to get<br />

blissfully lost admiring the culture.<br />

Of course, planning your accommodation<br />

during the festival is just as important as lining<br />

up events and parties. Hotel El Ganzo is<br />

an eclectic, vibrant hotel sandwiched between<br />

the bay and mountains, which boasts a pristine<br />

rooftop pool and the only underground<br />

recording studio in the area with “Gonzo<br />

Sessions.” Another choice, The Guaycura<br />

Boutique Hotel Beach Club & Spa, delivers<br />

guests a unique Mexican experience on an<br />

accessible corner in Todos Santo, steps away<br />

from lively galleries and restaurants. With traditionally<br />

decorated rooms and a rooftop terrace<br />

overlooking the peninsula's most dramatic<br />

nature, it is the perfect retreat from the<br />

buzz of the festival. Vista Encantada Spa<br />

Resort & Residences in Cabo San Lucas maintains<br />

a level of superiority and high-end luxury,<br />

with uninterrupted views of the surrounding<br />

sparkling Pacific Ocean, for those craving<br />

relaxation.<br />

In addition to gaining worldwide fame for its<br />

astonishing scenery, sultry nightlife and<br />

charming culture, The Los Cabos<br />

International Film Festival provides further<br />

incentive to add this destination to your list.<br />

www.cabosfilmfestival.com<br />

Speaking to the region’s natural assets,<br />

another perk of attending this festival is the<br />

sheer amount of sunlight and activities outside<br />

of film screenings. Nothing screams “A-List<br />

Celebrity” like exploring Los Cabos on a fullserviced<br />

yacht. For an authentic cultural experience,<br />

a farm-to-table cooking class at<br />

Huerta Los Tamarindos gives local insight into<br />

making aromatic Mexican cuisine. And of<br />

course strolling around sleepy Todos Santos -


Idaho - Fly Over State? Heck No!<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

Mother Nature had something up<br />

her sleeve when sculpting the<br />

intricate, stunning landscape that<br />

is southern Idaho. Often an overlooked<br />

touristic destination, Idaho is a land of breathtaking<br />

nature, adrenaline-pumping adventure,<br />

and is a beer-lovers haven.<br />

Most trips to the aptly nicknamed “Gem State”<br />

begin in Boise, the capital known for its charm<br />

and innovative arts. I stayed at the Marriott<br />

Boise Downtown, just minutes from the city’s<br />

colorful murals and live-music venues, before<br />

venturing into southern Idaho.<br />

While there’s a chance you’ve never heard of<br />

McCall, Idaho - a quaint and quirky mountain<br />

town about an hour from Boise—you probably<br />

should! Though the town only has about<br />

3,<strong>20</strong>0 fulltime residents, this former mining<br />

and timber community is a mecca of brewing<br />

with three craft breweries - McCall Brewing<br />

Company, Broken Horn Brewing Company,<br />

and Salmon River Brewery. The town also<br />

boasts several mouthwatering restaurants<br />

including two with executive chefs who have<br />

been honored by the James Beard House. I<br />

couldn’t feel guilty for my indulgences, however,<br />

as when I wasn’t eating I was continually<br />

moving - biking the streets of McCall, testing<br />

out the zip line at Cascade Raft’s new<br />

rope challenge, kayaking in Ponderosa State<br />

Park, horseback riding at Ya-Hoo Corrals,<br />

and relieving my muscles at the famous<br />

Burgdorf Hot Springs, nestled in the mountainous<br />

valley. I stayed at Hotel McCall down-<br />

town, with morning views from bed of the fog<br />

lifting from the lake. McCall hasn’t been saturated<br />

by tourists yet and is still brimming with<br />

authentic character and kind locals, excited to<br />

share their paradise in the mountains.<br />

When most people think of Sun Valley, they<br />

picture the celebrity mansions and exclusive<br />

ski resorts that are perched in the verdant<br />

mountain ranges. However, I was pleasantly<br />

surprised by how accessible and earthy it was.<br />

The downtown has an eclectic variety of<br />

restaurants like the Whiskey Jacques' for<br />

wood-fired pies. However, the real treat is the<br />

mountains ideal for skiing in winter and hiking<br />

all seasons. I stayed in a variety of properties<br />

- Knob Hill Inn was a charming alpine<br />

hotel with an indoor grill restaurant. Hotel<br />

Ketchum is the newly renovated, affordable<br />

choice near mountains and downtown, with<br />

airy, spacious rooms. The Limelight Hotel is<br />

suited for those looking for plush quarters and<br />

daily included shuttles to the mountains. Like<br />

McCall, craft beer is also prominent in<br />

Ketchum - aficionados will especially enjoy<br />

tasting Sawtooth Brewery’s flagship beers,<br />

including Idahome IPA.<br />

Idaho offers award-winning food, breweries,<br />

and an outdoor playground for any adventurous<br />

spirit. The time to visit is now, before the<br />

secret is out that Idaho is the next “hot state”<br />

to visit.<br />

www.visitidaho.org


24<br />

Munich, nothing changes, everything changes<br />

‘It has been over 30 years since my last<br />

visit’ I said. ‘So thirty years?’ said the hotel<br />

manager, with a smile and a chuckle she<br />

said ‘nothing has changed, the beer is the<br />

same, the buildings are the same and we are<br />

the same’. Maybe true but I had less than 48<br />

hours to find out.<br />

Although I was still young and my priorities<br />

have changed in life since the 80’s, I would<br />

attack this Bavarian capitol with energy and<br />

purpose. I had been challenged to find<br />

change in Munich.<br />

This being December, we were in a for a holiday<br />

cheer and the locals would be out in<br />

droves from late morning to late evening, so<br />

much so that I jokingly questioned my wife if<br />

anybody worked here? We would stroll the<br />

many wide pedestrian streets, visit the landmark<br />

Neues Rathaus (new Town hall, that is<br />

not so new), Marienplatz, with all the well lite<br />

Christmas kiosks, the amazing Alte<br />

Pinakothek museum, Peterskirche, (St Peters<br />

church) to climb the hundreds of narrow tower<br />

Article and photography by Michael Morcos<br />

steps to get a fabulous bird’s eye view of<br />

Munich, wonder though many opulent shops<br />

and fashion malls, visit some of Munich’s<br />

most iconic historic buildings and stroll<br />

through the magnificently laidback Englischer<br />

Garten (English gardens). The best part, it was<br />

all within walking distance in the city center.<br />

<strong>World</strong> Class Museums<br />

Munich is packed with museums for every<br />

interest and taste, so much so that art lovers<br />

could spend a month and still need more<br />

time. We visited the Alte Pinakothek museum,<br />

truly one of the best museums I have had the<br />

pleasure to see. With some of the most wellknown<br />

historical pieces, the artwork ranges<br />

from Monet and Velázquez right up to Dutch<br />

and Italian masters such as Van Gogh and<br />

Leonardo da Vinci.<br />

Eating your way through Munich<br />

With so many local and international dining<br />

options in Munich, our biggest problem was<br />

choosing from a host of wonderfully themed<br />

restaurants and cafes. We would have fantas-<br />

WT Library Photo<br />

tic buffet style breakfasts at our hotel, small<br />

lunches at any one of hundreds of local cafes<br />

and feast on Bavarian dishes at Beer halls.<br />

A memorable time was had at the Augustiner<br />

Bierhalle. This centrally located establishment<br />

is by most standards, huge and extremely<br />

popular, not just by tourist but by the hundreds<br />

of locals present that enjoyed the wonderfully<br />

brewed beers and appetizing<br />

Bavarian dishes. Since 1328, Augustiner has<br />

been serving the Munichers and so popular<br />

was their beer that I would recognise their<br />

beer labels in stores throughout the city.<br />

Where it is, was and will be<br />

There are town halls and there is the Neues<br />

Rathaus. Located on Munich's most central<br />

square, Marienplatz, it was constructed in the<br />

19th century but the municipality needed<br />

more office space than the Old Town Hall had<br />

and they built a new building. After completion<br />

in 1909, the building had added a 79-<br />

meter-high tower and a huge Flemish Gothic<br />

style façade. The interior is just as stunning,<br />

with vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows<br />

and carved wooden decorations.<br />

Munich airport<br />

There are airports that people would use to<br />

travel to another destination and then there is<br />

the Munich airport, a delightful destination on<br />

its own. Having connected here on many<br />

occasions, it would be the first time I left from<br />

here. The whole process from city center to<br />

boarding was seamless. To say the least, getting<br />

there on the efficient and well-kept<br />

regional train was a delight, the checking-in<br />

process was effortless and all so relaxing that<br />

the rest of the journey was like a piece-ofcake.<br />

With so much time on our hands we<br />

even strolled through a (get this) their outdoor<br />

yearly Christmas market, enjoyed some great<br />

airport restaurants and even some last minute<br />

duty free shopping. With such a wonderful<br />

experience, the rest of the world airports have<br />

a lot to learn from Munich’s.<br />

On this trip I would find the old and new fusing<br />

to create a rather bold and unmistakably<br />

modern city while still holding on to centuries<br />

of history and traditions. Many favourites are<br />

there and will always be, while hard working<br />

and positive thinking Munichers are firmly<br />

planted in this new millennium.<br />

www.munich.travel<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


26<br />

A Dinner With “Family” in Budapest<br />

by Daniel Smajovits<br />

The Olive Garden famously coined<br />

the slogan: ‘when you’re here,<br />

you’re family’, but for this writer, it<br />

took a trip to Budapest and a night with Suzie<br />

Goldbach and her parents, Zsuzsa and Feri,<br />

to truly feel like welcome away from home.<br />

Tucked in a quaint apartment overlooking the<br />

Danube River and Buda Hills, miles away<br />

from the crowds of central Budapest lies Eat,<br />

Meet and Greet Hungary. Much more than a<br />

restaurant, Eat, Meet and Greet is an experience,<br />

an evening like no other where one<br />

family serves up five-star cuisine with the<br />

warmest of welcomes.<br />

For Suzie, after training as a chef in Italy, she<br />

struggled to find a job upon her return to<br />

Budapest. With the support of her parents,<br />

she took a gamble on herself and in <strong>20</strong>15,<br />

began welcoming weary travelers into her<br />

home. What started as a concept turned into<br />

one of the finest restaurants in the city, creating<br />

memories for travelers that last a lifetime.<br />

The notion itself is incredibly simple: a dinner<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong><br />

party for strangers, but the execution is flawless.<br />

Ensuring that the traditional Hungarian<br />

dishes are authentic is matriarch Zsuzsa, who<br />

cooks alongside her daughter, while her husband,<br />

Feri, is a wine connoisseur and pairs<br />

each dish perfectly. Overseeing everything is<br />

Suzie whose energy is contagious.<br />

Throughout the evening, she keeps the conversation<br />

moving with her poignant questions<br />

and engaging stories, pausing only to explain<br />

the dishes, their origin and preparation.<br />

Should you manage to get a reservation, the<br />

only rule is to show up and enjoy. Joining you<br />

for dinner will be eleven strangers in the<br />

midst of a bucket list vacation, at the end of<br />

a grueling work trip or simply passing<br />

through. Every dinner begins in the living<br />

room as homemade Pálinka helps strangers<br />

break through the occasional language barrier.<br />

Suzie joins the conversation, trying to get<br />

to know each and every one of her guests.<br />

Like a calming wind, Suzie ensures that even<br />

the shyest of guests feel welcome, making<br />

this the ideal evening for a solo traveler. If<br />

you’re looking to meet new people, then look<br />

no further than your new friends around the<br />

dinner table, as by the time you finish your<br />

glass of Tokaji (dessert) wine, you’ll be<br />

exchanging phone numbers and making<br />

plans to meet up again.<br />

For those looking to indulge in gulyàs, look<br />

elsewhere. Suzie rarely cooks up the stereotypical<br />

cuisine, firmly believing that travelers<br />

need to experience the vast array of<br />

Hungarian flavours, well beyond the clichés.<br />

The menu varies per season, depending on<br />

the ingredients available. The only constant is<br />

a three-course meal which is always fresh,<br />

unique and filled with love.<br />

For most, the bold and exciting flavours on<br />

their plates elicited the delight and surprise<br />

that Suzie and her parents have come to<br />

expect. For the rest, their distant Hungarian<br />

roots simply reminded them of forgotten<br />

memories of dishes that their nagymama<br />

used to make.<br />

Even if this meal is at the end of your trip,<br />

meaning you will be at home with your family<br />

within hours, you feel a tinge of sadness as<br />

this night draws to a close, not knowing<br />

when, if at all, you’ll be able to spend time<br />

with your new family again.<br />

Suzie can be reached at:<br />

http://eatmeet-hungary.com<br />

or via email at:<br />

info@eatmeet-hungary.com.<br />

Reservations are required. The apartment<br />

building and Suzie’s apartment is wheelchair<br />

friendly.


27<br />

In Cuba, Naturally!<br />

Article and photography by Steve Gillick<br />

Many visitors to Cuba are unaware<br />

that aside from wonderful beach<br />

holidays, nature tourism places<br />

Cuba as one of the top destinations in the<br />

Caribbean. On a recent trip we travelled 2 ½<br />

hours south of Varadero to Playa Giron on<br />

the Zapata Peninsula to get a taste of Cuba’s<br />

amazing natural diversity by exploring stunning<br />

scenery, discovering the flora and<br />

fauna, hiking through national parks, reveling<br />

in the beauty of one waterfall after another,<br />

as well as kayaking, swimming and photography.<br />

Many visitors come to the mangrove swamps<br />

in Zapata National Park to kayak, fish, and<br />

even spot crocodiles, but the main activity,<br />

especially during the November to March<br />

migration season is birding. The pink flamingoes<br />

are a popular attraction but there are<br />

over 70 different types of birds on the peninsula.<br />

During our short stay we saw White Ibis,<br />

Kingfishers, Black-necked Stilts, Sandpipers,<br />

Prairie Warblers, Yellow Warblers (a.k.a.<br />

Mangrove Warblers), White and Reddish<br />

Egrets, and even the Cuban Trogon, the<br />

National Bird whose feathers display the<br />

blue, red and white colors of the Cuban flag!<br />

In nearby Playa Larga, we visited La casa del<br />

Zunzuncito, a wonderfully onomatopoeic<br />

word for the Bee Hummingbird, the smallest<br />

bird in the world. We took photos of a tiny<br />

blue female, as well as a bright green<br />

Emerald Hummingbird who dropped by.<br />

Heading further east, with spectacular views<br />

at every turn, we ascended Topes de<br />

Collantes, located at 800 meters (2600 feet)<br />

above sea level in the Escambray Mountains.<br />

On arrival, we boarded trucks, as the roads<br />

in the area can be steep and pretty rough.<br />

In Guanayara Park, single-tree bridges (hold<br />

on to that rope!) help traverse rushing<br />

streams as the easy-to-moderate hiking trails<br />

through pristine forest lead to intriguing cave<br />

passageways, sometimes full of slippery<br />

rocks, that in turn lead to spectacular hidden<br />

waterfalls.<br />

Our morning refreshments were a product of<br />

our surroundings. Delicious full-bodied coffee,<br />

made from fresh picked and roasted<br />

Robusta coffee beans was served along with<br />

a taste of ultra-sweet, creamy, chocolate that<br />

had just been made from Cacao beans.<br />

And with refreshment in mind, we followed a<br />

trail, named Centinelas del Rio Melodioso<br />

(Guardians of the Melodious River) to find<br />

swimming holes and discover a succession of<br />

waterfalls, each one more breathtaking than<br />

the last.<br />

After the hiking, birding and swimming (we<br />

also met rock climbers), it was time for zipping!<br />

Next to our hotel, Los Hellechos (The<br />

Ferns), we Zip-Lined through the Canopy with<br />

the fifth and last Zip spectacularly ending<br />

inside a cave passageway.<br />

A fitting end to our nature adventures was a<br />

visit to the Theatre of Elements Community<br />

Project which showcases the talents of local<br />

farmers: Singing, acting, and presenting their<br />

art and stories. The focus was nature - water,<br />

sunshine, fresh air - and its ability to generate<br />

positive energy. What could be a more<br />

inspirational take-away from a vacation? It’s<br />

in Cuba, naturally!<br />

www.gocuba.ca<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


28<br />

Going Further With<br />

Turkish Airlines<br />

Glowing reviews and exceptional<br />

food are the order of the day for<br />

this up-and-coming airline!<br />

Part of the Star Alliance network, Turkish<br />

airlines (THY) offers service to <strong>Canadian</strong>s<br />

from Toronto and Montreal, and connections<br />

to destinations all over the world<br />

from their hub in Istanbul.<br />

Building on their international reputation,<br />

THY has been climbing the ranks as a top<br />

provider and doing very well in Canada.<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong><br />

With <strong>20</strong>0 destinations, and adding new<br />

ones at a rapid pace, THY welcome travellers<br />

with smiles and a friendly hello,<br />

though often with a charming accent!<br />

To help them usher in this growth, THY<br />

has a massive, world-class training center<br />

in Istanbul with numerous simulators.<br />

Pilots, flight attends and support staff are<br />

all trained well and are ready to go after<br />

their courses are done.<br />

Their aircraft include A330s, A340s,<br />

B777s, B737-800s and B727-800s, all<br />

well maintained and laid-out with the customer<br />

in mind. Each section is designed<br />

with creature comforts taking front and<br />

centre. The seats throughout the plane are<br />

comfortable and the facilities are kept<br />

impeccably clean and organized. Most<br />

Business Class passengers can expect<br />

either fully lie-flat seats or angled lie-flat<br />

seats that brings relaxation to a higher<br />

level.<br />

Comfort Class is Turkish Airlines' premium<br />

economy section is highlighted by slightly<br />

larger seats configured in two-by-three-bytwo<br />

rows, a large video screen and entertainment<br />

system with an iPod outlet and a<br />

laptop power outlet for each seat.<br />

Even passengers traveling in Economy<br />

Class can enjoy an above average trip, as<br />

all passengers enjoy the famed THY complimentary<br />

meal. Though multi-course<br />

meals are provided in Business Class on<br />

extended range flights, all passengers are<br />

treated to the award winning food served<br />

on board. Considering that THY deals<br />

with one of the world’s biggest (maybe the<br />

biggest) catering service and are partners<br />

with Do & Co., there is no surprise in the<br />

quality THY can offer!<br />

www.turkishairlines.com


G Adventures Announces Top Destinations for the <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

Where to travel - top 12 destinations revealed<br />

into Northern Madagascar for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>, where<br />

travellers can spend time on ‘lemur island’<br />

or Nosy Be. There’s also a new Planeterra<br />

community tourism project - G Adventures<br />

non-profit partner - which aids reforestation<br />

of the habitat around Ranohira for native<br />

species, such as the endangered lemurs.<br />

Pope Francis visited Madagascar this year<br />

where he expressed support for the creation<br />

of new jobs aimed at securing the country's<br />

rich biodiversity.<br />

Sri Lanka - After a meteoric rise to become<br />

<strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>'s hottest travel destination with its kind<br />

people, rich culture and stunning shoreline,<br />

Sri Lanka’s tourism was heavily impacted following<br />

the Easter attacks last April.<br />

According to the Sri Lanka Tourism<br />

Development Authority, arrivals fell 71 per<br />

cent in May; the lowest number since the civil<br />

war ended a decade ago. With all foreign<br />

advisories lifted, now is the perfect time for<br />

travellers to return to experience all Sri Lanka<br />

has to offer. To help support this return, the<br />

government is offering a free visa on arrival<br />

for travellers from 48 countries.<br />

From fascinating emerging destinations<br />

and countries on the rebound,<br />

through to places where global<br />

events are making it more exciting to visit,<br />

the experts at G Adventures analyzed their<br />

data and coupled it with travel trends to forecast<br />

the 12 hottest spots to visit in <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>.<br />

G Adventures’ top 12 trips for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>:<br />

Nepal - <strong>Traveller</strong>s experiencing a mindful<br />

trip in the peaceful home of Buddha next<br />

year will find it hard to recall that <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

marks five years since the April <strong>20</strong>15 earthquake<br />

hit. The country has been busy<br />

rebuilding and is now encouraging tourism<br />

to return with the launch of the ‘Visit Nepal<br />

<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>’ campaign, which aims to attract two<br />

million visitors in the calendar year. G<br />

Adventures has experienced a 90 per cent<br />

increase in travellers since <strong>20</strong>17, and is<br />

offering a new Wellness Nepal tour which<br />

immerses travellers in local culture while they<br />

enjoy a blissful introduction to this place and<br />

its people.<br />

Georgia - It’s safe to say Georgian food and<br />

wine are both having a moment with the<br />

media spotlight highlighting delicacies such<br />

as khinkali (soup dumplings) and the country’s<br />

traditional winemaking process. G<br />

Adventures has witnessed a 44 per cent<br />

increase in travellers over the past three<br />

years, and Georgia’s profile as an international<br />

tourism destination will be encouraged<br />

with the UNWTO selecting the country to<br />

host its June <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> board meeting. New<br />

budget flight routes through Europe will also<br />

help open up this emerging destination.<br />

Madagascar - This gem off the coast of<br />

southern Africa has continued to attract<br />

adventurous travellers with a 33 per cent<br />

increase for G Adventures in the past three<br />

years. This has led the company to expand<br />

Ireland - <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> is a leap year, so where better<br />

to visit than the country with its own leapyear<br />

tradition of reversing the traditional<br />

engagement proposal so women asking for<br />

a hand in marriage! Additionally, Galway<br />

has been named as a European Capital of<br />

Culture for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>, and G Adventures has a<br />

new National Geographic Journeys with G<br />

Adventures Iconic Ireland trip for those wanting<br />

to join the craic.<br />

Nicaragua - With its beautiful beaches,<br />

world-class surf and stunning classic colonial<br />

architecture, Nicaragua is firmly back on its<br />

feet to welcome tourists following a period of<br />

unrest, making this the perfect time to visit. G<br />

Adventures returns in November, just in time<br />

for the dry season which begins in<br />

December. The Nicaraguan Institute of<br />

Tourism reports that during <strong>20</strong>18 tourist<br />

numbers dropped 28 per cent but now calm<br />

has returned the friendly locals are hopeful<br />

the tourists will follow.


31<br />

Brazil - With a 10 per cent increase in G<br />

Adventures travellers in the past year, the<br />

first increase in the past few years, Brazil<br />

appears to be firmly back on traveller’s<br />

hotlists. Rio de Janeiro has been named the<br />

<strong>World</strong> Capital of Architecture for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> by<br />

UNESCO, and G Adventures has a new<br />

National Geographic Journeys Explore<br />

Brazil trip launching next year.<br />

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines -<br />

<strong>Traveller</strong>s looking for an instagrammable<br />

Caribbean holiday with few tourists to photobomb<br />

their pictures need look no further.<br />

G Adventures’ new sailing trip cruising the<br />

untouched islands of Saint Vincent and the<br />

Grenadines is just the ticket. travellers will<br />

sail from hidden coves to secluded beaches<br />

in a comfortable catamaran, with time for<br />

snorkelling some of the Caribbean's best<br />

sites and indulging in tasty local Creole cuisine.<br />

Laos - Often overlooked on a Southeast<br />

Asia adventure, travellers on this G<br />

Adventures trip will arrive into the calmness<br />

of this small but perfectly formed country by<br />

boat, sailing the Mekong into the heart and<br />

soul of Laos. According to the Ministry of<br />

Tourism, traveller numbers to Laos for the<br />

first half of <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> have increased five percent<br />

compared to the same time last year, and to<br />

encourage more tourism, as of June <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

all international visitors to Laos are eligible<br />

to apply online for a single entry visa for a<br />

maximum stay of 30 days.<br />

Japan - Appearing for a second year, Japan<br />

is on roll. Hot on the heels of hosting the<br />

Rugby <strong>World</strong> Cup this year, <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> has them<br />

keeping busy hosting the Summer Olympics.<br />

G Adventures travellers to the ‘Land of the<br />

Rising Sun’ have been steadily increasing<br />

with an additional 23 per cent growth in the<br />

past year. With the launch of its new<br />

National Geographic Family Journeys programme,<br />

G Adventures is extending experiences<br />

to include children aged seven and<br />

up. A Japan Family Journey tour.<br />

South Africa - It’ll be 30 years next year<br />

since Nelson Mandela was released from<br />

prison, and G Adventures has been experiencing<br />

double-digit growth in South Africa<br />

for the past few years. As a result of<br />

increased footfall, and the opportunity to<br />

change more lives through travel, a new<br />

Planeterra project has been launched to<br />

help educate travellers about the Indigenous<br />

San culture. G Adventures is also launching<br />

a new National Geographic Family Journeys<br />

trip, the Southern Africa Family Journey.<br />

Greeland - Greeland hit the headlines earlier<br />

this year with search results doubling<br />

after President Trump claimed he wanted to<br />

buy it. See what attracted him to this pristine<br />

piece of the world aboard the G Expedition<br />

ship, as it traverses Greenland’s coast.<br />

www.gadventures.com<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


32<br />

Tropical<br />

Tidbits<br />

by Sue C Travel<br />

Rosalie Bay Resort<br />

Reopens on Dominica<br />

I was delighted to hear of the reopening of<br />

this wonderful eco-resort on Dominica as<br />

the island fully bounces back from damage<br />

caused by Hurricane Maria two years ago.<br />

The Nature Island is looking lush and lovely<br />

again now, and this is one of my<br />

favourite spots to stay there. I find it more<br />

South Pacific style than Caribbean, with its<br />

soft black volcanic sand that sparkles in the<br />

sunlight cresting a cobalt sea flanked with<br />

emerald peaks of rainforest. I love their elegant<br />

country cottage style abodes, and it’s<br />

an ideal retreat for health and wellness with<br />

locally sourced nutritious meal choices,<br />

yoga and meditation classes, and an<br />

exceptional spa located on the bank of the<br />

Rosalie River. Hiking opportunities abound<br />

for all skill levels on this island, and superb<br />

snorkeling and first-rate diving are also<br />

great activity options. Rosalie Bay Beach is<br />

also a very popular spot for many species<br />

of sea turtles to nest upon each summer, in<br />

fact, the owner is known as the sea turtle<br />

saviour of Dominica.<br />

Visit: www.rosaliebaydominica.com<br />

Virgin Voyages to Set Sail Soon<br />

Dubbed as “the cruise for people who don’t<br />

like cruising”, the seaborne vision of<br />

famous entrepreneur Richard Branson<br />

soon sets sail from the Port of Miami<br />

aboard the Scarlet Lady. Itineraries beginning<br />

in April <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> will include short jaunts<br />

to Key West, and longer cruises to the<br />

Dominican Republic’s Puerto Plata, and<br />

Mexico’s Costa Maya and Riviera Maya,<br />

with every voyage stopping at their highly<br />

anticipated new private island oasis in the<br />

Bahamas called The Beach Club at Bimini.<br />

All cruises are adult-only, and uber hightech<br />

modern cabins sport modular furniture<br />

so you can adjust your living space as<br />

desired. Of course, being a Richard<br />

Branson project, you never know what epic<br />

entertainment and theme parties might<br />

happen on board. And you can meet the<br />

man in person if you book his “Birthday<br />

Bash” cruise in July as he’ll be celebrating<br />

on board.<br />

Visit: www.virginvoyages.com<br />

A Spooky Cancun Week<br />

I just happened to be in Cancun and<br />

Riviera Maya last fall during both<br />

Halloween and the Day of the Dead week,<br />

and though I’d like to plan to return to<br />

Mexico at this time of year to explore local<br />

traditions like small town cemetery festivals


33<br />

and the ancient Mayan Hanal Pixán<br />

ceremony ( I hear Alltournative Lifetime<br />

Experiences does a wonderful outing to an<br />

underground cenote for this,) I was still<br />

treated to some spooky stuff at the two different<br />

hotels I stayed at. I was at the new<br />

Now Emerald Cancun for Halloween ─ a<br />

two-tower family-friendly all-inclusive resort<br />

right on Cancun’s best beach. And though<br />

I thoroughly enjoyed the multi-level water<br />

circuit cresting the sea, I’m not a big fan of<br />

being surrounded by children while trying<br />

to relax. So, I was glad they also have an<br />

epic adult-only pool as well, and that’s<br />

where you’ll find their most epic bartender,<br />

too. He is really a star! But come<br />

Halloween, it wouldn’t have been the same<br />

without the screams of the kids! They pulled<br />

out all the stops for a great show by<br />

bedecking the sports bar with such a welldone<br />

haunted house that the adults were<br />

often as terrified as the children! (I know I<br />

was.) And the food and drink were done up<br />

in all manner of creepy styles, too. Lots of<br />

fun.<br />

Visit: www.nowresorts.com/emerald<br />

Next, I was at Breathless Riviera Cancun<br />

Resort & Spa for the Day of the Dead. This<br />

is an adult-only upscale all-inclusive which<br />

I absolutely adored (see review page 55).<br />

This spot also outdid themselves with<br />

spooky décor and unique food and drinks<br />

and a skeleton party and neon party at<br />

their trendy outdoor Wink Bar. I was uber<br />

impressed with the giant two-person skeletons,<br />

stacked on top of each other that<br />

actually managed to dance with the each<br />

other and the guests! Very cool.<br />

Visit: www.breathlessresorts.com<br />

Nikki Beach Saint Barth<br />

Goes More Gourmet<br />

A legendary St Barth’s landmark kicked off<br />

the new season by bringing in Chef Taku<br />

Sekine to represent the luxury beach club in<br />

the 6th annual Saint Barth Gourmet<br />

Festival last fall, taking their offerings up to<br />

whole new level of culinary excellence.<br />

Chef Taku was Head Chef at Dersou and<br />

Cheval d’Or in Paris and brought his own<br />

unique fusion Asian/French vision to the<br />

event in keeping with the high level of<br />

sophistication one expects to enjoy on the<br />

Caribbean’s most chic and cosmopolitan<br />

island.<br />

Visit: saint-barth.nikkibeach.com<br />

Star Clippers Wins<br />

Prestigious Green Cruise Award<br />

It pays to sail the old-fashioned way it<br />

seems, using wind power to cruise around<br />

the seas in the most environmentallyfriendly<br />

way possible has seen the Star<br />

Clippers line win <strong>World</strong>’s Leading Green<br />

Cruise at the prestigious <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> <strong>World</strong> Travel<br />

Awards. Again! This is the seventh time they<br />

have won it. And they also garnered two<br />

more stellar accolades as <strong>World</strong>’s Leading<br />

Specialist Cruise Line and <strong>World</strong>’s Leading<br />

Luxury Sailing Company at the awards. I’ve<br />

had the pleasure to sail aboard the Star<br />

Flyer this year, and I will certainly attest to<br />

the fact that all of these awards are very<br />

well-deserved. Mirell Reyes, President of<br />

Star Clippers America, says, “We are<br />

thrilled to be recognized by the <strong>World</strong><br />

Travel Awards year after year for our commitment<br />

to environmentally responsible<br />

sailing practices and a truly unique cruise<br />

experience. Star Clippers cruises marry the<br />

authenticity of a true sailing vessels with the<br />

luxury amenities of a private yacht, giving<br />

guests the best of both worlds.”<br />

Visit: www.starclippers.com<br />

©ArtmanAgency<br />

Award-winning travel journalist<br />

Sue Campbell is based in Montreal but makes it<br />

her business to be on top of everything cool, hot,<br />

and new under the sun throughout the<br />

Caribbean and Latin America.<br />

<strong>World</strong> Traveler welcomes her as a<br />

regular columnist.<br />

Follow her on<br />

Instagram and Twitter @suectravel<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


Arctic North Atlantic South Atlantic North<br />

Amazon Danube Mekong Nile Rhine Rhône Moselle Seine Yangtze<br />

C r u i s i n g w i t h<br />

W O R L D<br />

Traveler<br />

Come With Us &


Pacific South Pacific Indian Southern Ocean<br />

CRUISING SECTION<br />

Cruise News - pages 36-37<br />

UnPlug with UnCruise - page 40<br />

The Sky’s The Limit with Sky Princess - page 42<br />

Romantic Europe on the Reimagined “Crystal Serenity” - page 44<br />

Do you know the Secrets of Luxury Barges in Europe? - page 46<br />

A Round of Applause for The Encore, NCL’s latest hit- page 48<br />

This Photo: Crystal Serenity<br />

Sail The <strong>World</strong>!<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong><br />

Adriatic Aegean Mediterranean Caribbean Baltic Black South-China Sea


36<br />

AmaWaterways Avalon Azamara Carnival Celebrit<br />

C r u i s e N e w s<br />

European Waterways Announces New Themed Cruises in <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

Responding to the ever increasing<br />

demand for experiential travel,<br />

European Waterways announced<br />

that it is now offering a wider<br />

range of new themed cruise<br />

departures for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> that can be<br />

booked on a per-cabin basis.<br />

Cruises eligible for cabin bookings<br />

include the April 5, <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> Whisky<br />

Trail cruise aboard the Scottish<br />

Highlander and the April 26,<br />

<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>, Golf Cruise aboard the<br />

Spirit of Scotland, both on<br />

Scotland’s Caledonian Canal; the April 12, <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> Wine Appreciation Cruise aboard<br />

L’Impressionniste in Burgundy, France; and the August 16, <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> Opera Cruise aboard<br />

La Bella Vita, which sails out of Venice.<br />

www.europeanwaterways.com<br />

Silversea Launces Unprecedented Collection of Grand Voyages<br />

Silversea launches a new collection of Grand<br />

Voyages for late <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> and <strong>20</strong>21, which includes<br />

three exceptional expedition cruise options. Purposely<br />

designed for travellers who prefer a more immersive<br />

travel experience, Silversea’s Grand Voyages offer<br />

extended journeys of up to 70 days, with multiple<br />

overnight stays, a range of exclusive events, and<br />

many life-defining experiences.<br />

Following below is a recap of each Grand Voyage:<br />

•Grand Australia <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>, Sydney Round Trip - 30 Ports/3 Countries.<br />

•Grand South America <strong>20</strong>21, Fort Lauderdale Round Trip - 37 Ports/<strong>20</strong> Countries.<br />

•Grand Southern Expedition <strong>20</strong>21, Ushuaia to Lautoka, Fiji - 26 Ports/8 Countries.<br />

•Grand Tropical Expedition <strong>20</strong>21,Lautoka, Fiji, to Cochin, India - 36 Ports/9 Countries.<br />

•Grand Northern Expedition <strong>20</strong>21, Cochin, India, to Tromsø - 47 Ports/15 Countries.<br />

www.silversea.com<br />

Holland America Line<br />

Opens <strong>20</strong>21 Grand South America<br />

& Antarctica Voyage<br />

In <strong>20</strong>21, Volendam embarks on a 74-<br />

day Grand South America &<br />

Antarctica Voyage, which visits 34<br />

ports in eight countries and various<br />

Caribbean islands. The circumnavigation<br />

includes extensive exploration of<br />

two juxtaposed natural wonders: the<br />

Amazon River and Antarctica.<br />

Overnight calls include two nights at Callao (Lima), Peru; and single nights at Buenos<br />

Aires, Argentina; Rio de Janeiro and Manaus, Brazil.<br />

The roundtrip Fort Lauderdale voyage departs Jan. 4, <strong>20</strong>21, and transits the Panama<br />

Canal before heading to Ecuador, Peru, Chile, the Antarctica, the Falkland Islands,<br />

Uruguay, Argentina, Brazil and the Caribbean before returning to Fort Lauderdale.<br />

www.hollandamerica.com<br />

AmaWaterways<br />

New State-of-the-Art Ship<br />

Four New Itineraries<br />

Joining AmaWaterways’ flourishing<br />

European fleet, the new 156-passenger<br />

AmaLucia, sister ship to AmaSiena<br />

(<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>), will feature signature twin balconies,<br />

connecting staterooms and multiple<br />

dining venues including The Chef’s<br />

Table, among other luxurious amenities.<br />

Celebrating spring in the Netherlands<br />

and Belgium, AmaLucia begins her journey<br />

March 16, <strong>20</strong>21 sailing a series of<br />

Tulip Time cruises before setting sail on<br />

the Danube, Rhine, Main and Moselle<br />

rivers.<br />

In response to the growing demand for<br />

more French itineraries, AmaWaterways<br />

announced the repositioning of three<br />

ships – besides the award-winning<br />

AmaKristina moving to the Rhône,<br />

AmaDante will join AmaLyra on the<br />

Seine and AmaCello will sail a new itinerary<br />

on both the Rhône and Saône<br />

rivers. Lastly, AmaBella and AmaVerde<br />

will rejoin AmaWaterways’ European<br />

fleet sailing the Dutch & Belgian<br />

Waterways and the Danube.<br />

Four New European Itineraries Plus New<br />

Pre- and Post-Cruise Land Programs<br />

In <strong>20</strong>21, AmaWaterways will debut four<br />

new cruise itineraries:<br />

•Impressions of the Seine & Paris sailing<br />

on board AmaDante from Paris to Le<br />

Havre.<br />

•Essence of Burgundy & Provence sailing<br />

on board AmaCello from Chalonsur-Saône<br />

to Arles (or reverse).<br />

•Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps sailing on<br />

board AmaMora and AmaSerena from<br />

Amsterdam to Basel (or reverse).<br />

•Best of Holland & Belgium sailing on<br />

board the AmaSerena round-trip from<br />

Amsterdam.<br />

www.amawaterways.com<br />

Royal-Caribbean Scenic Seabourn SeaDream Si


y Costa Crystal Cunard Disney Holland America<br />

The Port of Rotterdam has recently welcomed<br />

the first call of MSC Grandiosa, one of the<br />

most environmentally-advanced ships at sea<br />

yet.<br />

MSC Grandiosa was delivered on 31 October<br />

at the Chantiers de l’Atlantique shipyard in<br />

Saint-Nazaire, France and is heavily equipped<br />

with a comprehensive range of leading-edge<br />

environmental technologies and other solutions<br />

as with this ship MSC Cruises marks<br />

another significant step in its journey towards<br />

zero-emissions operations.<br />

The newest flagship features a state-of-the-art<br />

selective catalytic reduction system which<br />

helps reduce nitrogen oxide emissions by 80<br />

Viking has recently announced its seventh ocean ship,<br />

Viking Venus®, will join its award-winning fleet in<br />

early <strong>20</strong>21, further solidifying the company’s standing<br />

as the largest and world’s best small-ship ocean<br />

cruise line. The newest 930-guest sister ship will<br />

spend her maiden season sailing popular itineraries<br />

in Scandinavia and Northern Europe, including British<br />

Isles Explorer, In Search of the Northern Lights, Viking<br />

Homelands and Into the Midnight Sun.<br />

Viking will also expand its offerings in the<br />

Mediterranean and today announced five new itineraries<br />

that include stops in Istanbul, marking the company’s<br />

return to the iconic city. The new 8-day Ancient<br />

Mediterranean Treasures will sail between Athens and<br />

Istanbul, with overnight stays in both cities. Guests<br />

MSC Grandiosa Makes First Call to Rotterdam<br />

per cent through advanced active emissions control technology. Nitrogen oxide from the<br />

engine operations is conducted through a catalyst – a high-density device made from<br />

noble metals – and converts them into nitrogen and water, both harmless compounds.<br />

MSC Grandiosa will also be fitted with shore-to-ship power which connects cruise ships<br />

while at berth to a port’s local power grid to further reduce the ship’s air emissions while<br />

in port to zero. This is a feature that has come as standard across all MSC Cruises new<br />

builds since <strong>20</strong>17.<br />

These new features add to other effective environmental technologies deployed on the<br />

ship and across the Company’s fleet to minimise and continuously reduce environmental<br />

impact, including: cutting-edge hybrid Exhaust Gas Cleaning Systems (EGCS) that<br />

remove up to 97 per cent of sulphur oxide from ship emissions; advanced waste management<br />

and wastewater treatment systems; ballast water treatment systems; latest-technology<br />

systems for the prevention of oil discharges from machinery spaces and various<br />

state-of-the-art energy-efficiency improvements – from heat recovery systems to LED<br />

lighting.<br />

Currently, MSC Grandiosa and 10 other ships in MSC Cruises’ fleet of 17 ships are<br />

equipped for cleaner emissions with hybrid (closed-loop) EGCS. The line’s six other<br />

ships will be retrofitted with the technology by the end of <strong>20</strong>23.<br />

MSC Grandiosa will be deployed in the Western Mediterranean for the next 12 months<br />

before MSC Grandiosa is deployed to South America for winter <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>.<br />

www.msccruises.com<br />

Viking Announces New Ocean Offerings for <strong>20</strong>21:<br />

Viking Venus and Additional Mediterranean Itineraries<br />

looking for an extended experience in the region can choose a longer versions of<br />

the itinerary, including the 15-day Ancient Adriatic Treasures, which sails between<br />

Venice and Istanbul; the 15-day Ancient Mediterranean Antiquities, which sails<br />

between Rome and Istanbul; the 22-day Iconic Mediterranean Treasures, which<br />

sails between Barcelona and Istanbul; or the 29-day Mediterranean’s Iconic<br />

Shores, which also sails between Barcelona and Istanbul and includes stops in<br />

Montenegro and Croatia.<br />

Beginning in April <strong>20</strong>21 and sailing on Viking’s award-winning 930-guest allveranda<br />

Viking Sky®, guests embarking on the new Ancient Mediterranean<br />

Treasures itinerary or its longer combination cruise options will witness the origin<br />

of civilization while cruising the fabled Aegean Sea. Highlights of the new itinerary<br />

include: Istanbul, Troy (Çanakkale), Ephesus (Kuşadasi), Turkey and Rhodes,<br />

Heraklion and Athens, Greece.<br />

This announcement comes on the heels of several recent accolades for Viking. For<br />

the fourth consecutive year, Travel + Leisure readers voted Viking® to the top of<br />

its categories in the <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> <strong>World</strong>’s Best Awards. In <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>, the company’s first five<br />

930-guest sister ships dominated the Cruise Critic® 9th Annual Cruisers’ Choice<br />

Awards, receiving 11 First Place honors. Viking was again named the #1 River<br />

Cruise Line by Condé Nast Traveler in the publication’s <strong>20</strong>18 Readers’ Choice<br />

Awards – and has also been honored as “Best Cruise Line for Luxury Ocean<br />

Cruises” and “Best Luxury River Cruise Company” in Luxury Travel Advisor magazine’s<br />

<strong>20</strong>18 “Awards of Excellence” for a second consecutive year.<br />

www.vikingcruises.com<br />

37<br />

Hurtigruten MSC Norwegian Oceania Ponant Princess Regent<br />

versea Star-Clippers Uniworld Viking Windstar


40<br />

UnPlug with UnCruise<br />

Article by Ilona Kauremszky, photography Stephen Smith<br />

Ifeel like I have the entire sea to myself.<br />

On the edge of the planet's largest remaining<br />

tract of temperate rainforest waves are lapping<br />

around the S.S. Legacy. Not a soul<br />

around. We're sailing on one of the cruise itineraries<br />

from expedition cruise company,<br />

UnCruise Adventures called Alaska's Glacier<br />

Country, a 7-night thrilling adventure of<br />

Southeast Alaska.<br />

For this city dweller it's like stepping onto<br />

another planet. But as soon as we start our<br />

cruise, magic suddenly happens.<br />

A pod of Orca whales arrive.<br />

Here we are only 30-minutes after leaving the<br />

cruise terminal in Juneau, Alaska on a small<br />

Victorian steamship replica, one of the small<br />

ships from the Seattle-based company, dining<br />

on freshly caught wild salmon when as fast as<br />

a New York minute the captain announces<br />

whales approaching starboard.<br />

The Gastineau Channel opens up to a Mother<br />

Nature show of BBC Sir David Attenborough<br />

proportions. “See over there,” screams a<br />

voice. “Is that a baby whale?” asks another.<br />

“How cool,” chimes in yet another guest as<br />

everyone gathers on the bow. These front row<br />

seats to the biggest cruise ticket around couldn't<br />

get any finer.<br />

It does.<br />

Whale sightings are a highlight of any cruise.<br />

Spotting Orcas on the other hand I learned<br />

later from the captain remain one of the most<br />

elusive occurrences in the world. “Imagine<br />

99.9 percent of the people living on this planet<br />

have never seen a live Orca whale in their<br />

natural habitat,” says Captain Tim Voss<br />

describing just one of the wildlife encounters<br />

we witnessed.<br />

Home to the state's largest cruise port, cruisers<br />

in Juneau arrive to the Final Frontier state's<br />

capital to anticipate the unexpected. Prepare<br />

to get off-line and recharge the batteries<br />

especially on an expedition cruise that trans-


ports you to remote places where few have<br />

gone before.<br />

Today's luxury seeking clients and those in<br />

need of a digital detox will imbibe in nature<br />

and feast on wilderness encounters never<br />

imagined. No regrets.<br />

On The Legacy the attire is casual. Guests<br />

wear wellies and raincoats. When it's time to<br />

disembark our ports of call are marked by<br />

geographic locations and not towns – like<br />

Endicott Arm. Crew and guests give the<br />

mandatory “Viking Handshake” position -<br />

that's a sturdy hand grip as we leave behind<br />

the mothership and its new Sea Dragon, a<br />

towed state-of-the-art trailer that allows for<br />

the swift launching of kayaks and inflatable<br />

skiff boats.<br />

Over a week I got out of my comfort zone,<br />

doing things I never imagined. On our first<br />

day at sea we pulled into Glacier Bay<br />

National Park to pick up our Park Ranger Matt<br />

Earle who arrived at dawn in a thick fog via<br />

skiff boat surrounded by breaching humpback<br />

whales. The park has a rich fish food<br />

court off Bartlett Cove, a pleasure ground for<br />

humpback whales located in the vicinity of the<br />

Visitor Centre.<br />

In Glacier Bay National Park we set our sights<br />

on John Muir territory. The great naturalist<br />

whose achievements spearheaded the United<br />

States National Park system was so mystified<br />

by the glaciers creating Yosemite Valley, he<br />

made the rigorous journey to Alaska in 1879<br />

to see for himself what glaciers actually<br />

looked like.<br />

These days only a handful of select cruise<br />

lines like UnCruise Adventures gain restricted<br />

park access and have limited viewing opportunities<br />

regulated by the National Parks system.<br />

Cruise guests enjoy the pristine natural<br />

surrounds without viewing a highway of ships<br />

in its path. Isolated. Remote. Only the primordial<br />

growls of wild animals and the blowhole<br />

gasps from whales with plenty of bird calls<br />

awaken the senses. We smelled the pungent<br />

musty odour of the endangered Stellar Sea<br />

Lions sunning and loudly grunting on South<br />

Marble Island before actually seeing them.<br />

We laughed at the bobbing sea lions and<br />

zoomed our binoculars on rock outcroppings,<br />

home to mountain goats.<br />

At the park's West Arm – a pair of glaciers<br />

stand side by side. The ship's engine shuts off.<br />

We're facing the sheer white 21-mile long<br />

Margerie Glacier and the wider 34.5-mile<br />

long black tinged rocky Grand Pacific Glacier.<br />

We stare at these tidewater glaciers watching<br />

Margerie's iridescent blue bergy bits bobbing<br />

by as the dramatic crash of more ice sheering<br />

off in a process known as calving enter the<br />

tidal waters. It's only the start of our glacier<br />

quest voyage.<br />

Unlike the mid-sized to large cruise ships that<br />

ply the busy Pacific Ocean corridor, our<br />

adventure cruise sails the sheltered glassy<br />

calm Inside Passage. It's home to a rugged<br />

coastline of sky high walled canyons, hidden<br />

coves, glacier-cut fjords dotted by rocky islets<br />

and that's not counting the abundant wildlife<br />

encounters in this lush temperate coastal rainforest.<br />

One morning we took a skiff boat to the<br />

“mainland.” It was bear territory. We meandered<br />

through meadows into gardens of wild<br />

orchids, chocolate lilies and the bell-shaped<br />

cassiope, looking at bear scat like it was an<br />

artifact from another world. From our expedition<br />

guide yelps erupted as did lyrical “Day-<br />

O” sounds that resembled The Banana Boat<br />

Song. The high notes echoed through the<br />

southeast Alaskan summer breeze in this<br />

alfresco chamber of green. The only thing trying<br />

to bite us was an occasional pesky mosquito.<br />

(Watch our video:<br />

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOyFQ<br />

O4SD68)<br />

We later sail south down the Chatham Strait<br />

considered the great marine highway of the<br />

protected Inside Passage between Baranof<br />

Island and the bear-rich Admiralty Island. The<br />

federally protected wilderness habitat is home<br />

to an estimated 1,600 brown bears, bald<br />

eagles and Sitka black-tailed deer. The<br />

smooth landscape pales in comparison to the<br />

towering glacier skyscrapers we left behind.<br />

One day we play with critters. We anchor by<br />

Keku Islands, a group of islands in Southeast<br />

Alaska known for some of the finest tide-pooling.<br />

This natural phenomenon unleashes<br />

extraordinary sea creatures that surface during<br />

low tide giving you personal marine life<br />

encounters. Before the excursions, the expedition<br />

guides list the do's and don'ts of sustainable<br />

viewing.<br />

Kayakers paddle into craggily coves to<br />

discover how much life resides in the<br />

oxygen-rich intertidal water. A sea garden<br />

of clams, starfish, incredibly long bull<br />

kelp normally submerged during high tide<br />

have risen to the surface to curious eyes. On<br />

the volcanic rock left behind from the glaciation<br />

we gawk at the giant chitons and giant<br />

acorn barnacles hugging the salt and pepper<br />

surface. Baritone slurping sounds suck<br />

beneath my feet. Specs of clam shoot out air<br />

clouds in this mad dash for intertidal survival.<br />

“Out here we have some of the highest tides<br />

in the world as well as the lows,” says Sarah,<br />

UnCruise Expedition Guide during our tide<br />

pool shoreline walk. “Water come back. Hear<br />

the squeaky sounds? It's time for them to<br />

squirt. Hear the gulping?”<br />

I look down around my wellies. Standing on<br />

what was dry shoreline, in minutes my toes<br />

are now underwater as are the clams.<br />

The S.S. Legacy had sailed off itinerary by this<br />

time – which is typical of UnCruise<br />

Adventures.<br />

“We aim to go where the animals are,”<br />

explains owner Dan Blanchard of the<br />

unscripted itineraries to our fellow shipmates<br />

in a precruise briefing days earlier. He shows<br />

our group his brochure and flings it in the air.<br />

“See this. You might as well forget it. We rely<br />

on our crew who get daily local updates of<br />

wildlife sightings. We want you to explore one<br />

of the best areas left on the planet for wildlife<br />

viewing.”<br />

Indeed.<br />

No loud music. No live entertainment. No<br />

cellphone service... and yes, no Wi-Fi either.<br />

UnCruise is all about reconnecting to nature<br />

and sharing those moments with loved ones<br />

and new friends.<br />

Be prepared to get unplugged. It's easy to do<br />

on UnCruise.<br />

www.uncruise.com<br />

41<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


42<br />

The Sky’s The Limit with Sky Princess<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

Princess Cruises lines couldn’t have<br />

named the latest vessel in her fleet,<br />

the Sky, any more suitably. At 19<br />

stories high, towering over the seas as a<br />

moving spectacle, the sky truly is the limit<br />

for this striking ship. And, true to Princess<br />

form, Sky is top-of-the-line in innovation<br />

and ingenuity, designed with passenger<br />

ease at the forefront. Furthermore, precision<br />

in the design process was paramount<br />

for the ship - in fact, it took an estimated<br />

three million labour hours and 37,000 tons<br />

of steel to build the boat, the 18th in<br />

Princess’ fleet. Sky Princesses’ maiden voyage<br />

began in Trieste, Italy in mid-October<br />

<strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>. It brought her to Fort Lauderdale in<br />

early December of the same year, where<br />

she was christened in her naming ceremony.<br />

Sky Princess is unrivaled in her amenities,<br />

design, and surplus of activities. Let’s<br />

take a closer look at what the newest<br />

Princess ship offers passengers:<br />

Accommodation<br />

With 1,830 guest staterooms aboard Sky<br />

Princess, its no wonder there is an eclectic<br />

diversity in her accommodation offerings.<br />

The ship boasts two Sky Suites, both of<br />

which feature the cruise industry’s largest<br />

balconies at sea, measuring 1,012 square<br />

feet (starboard side Sky Suite) and 947<br />

square feet (port side Sky Suite). Even better,<br />

these furnished balconies provide a private<br />

and stunning vantage point for the ship’s<br />

Movie Under the Stars screenings. Their size<br />

also makes them perfect for entertaining—<br />

and with 270-degree panorama views, the<br />

suites are ideal for hosting private parties<br />

and large family gatherings. Even more,<br />

guests in the Sky Suites have extra services<br />

such as a "suite experience manager" and<br />

are grated enticing special privileges, such<br />

as choosing which film shall be played on<br />

the ship’s gigantic screen.


“We’ve led the way on many innovations in<br />

the cruise industry, evolving to meet the<br />

needs of today’s vacationer and of all of<br />

our new stateroom innovations, we’ve never<br />

seen such immediate demand as we are for<br />

these Sky Suites,” said Jan Swartz, Princess<br />

Cruises president. “Our global fleet offers<br />

one of the highest percentages of balcony<br />

staterooms in the industry, across all cabin<br />

categories, and now we’re eager for the<br />

arrival of the industry’s largest balconies at<br />

sea, inviting guests to relax privately or host<br />

their very own en-suite celebrations in<br />

style.”<br />

In addition to these two gems, there are 44<br />

suites with private balconies and 374 Mini-<br />

Suites with private balconies. Also, the ship<br />

boasts 311 deluxe balcony cabins, 753 balcony<br />

cabins, and six deluxe ocean view cabins<br />

spanning 19 decks. All Sky Princess<br />

accommodation comes standard with either<br />

a queen or two twin beds, a television entertainment<br />

system, and a private bathroom<br />

with a shower.<br />

Food and Drinks<br />

Trust us - you’ll never use the words<br />

“hunger” and “Sky Princess” in the same<br />

sentence - in fact, there are over 25 restaurants,<br />

and bars on board!<br />

The ship’s vast array of cuisine fits any taste<br />

buds - from grabbing a slice at Alfredo’s<br />

Pizzeria to winding down with a glass of<br />

vino at Vines Wine Bar, Sky brings together<br />

all of the traditional outlets of her sister<br />

Princess ships, with new and innovative<br />

additions, as well. The famous Sabatini<br />

Italian Trattoria is a go-to for conventional<br />

Mediterranean dishes while the Bistro Sur<br />

La Mer, dedicated to inspired French cuisine<br />

created by the acclaimed Emmanuel Rena,<br />

is the choice for classic French favorites<br />

such as Filet de boeuf poelé (beef filet<br />

mignon.)<br />

For those looking for a dose of English pub<br />

culture, The Salty Dog is the choice for fish<br />

and chips with a beer. Additionally, the Sky<br />

is home to a <strong>World</strong> Fresh Marketplace,<br />

which includes The Pastry Shop, Slice<br />

Pizzeria, and Swirls ice cream (we highly<br />

recommend tasting the mint chip!). Each<br />

day, the three main dining rooms - Estreslla,<br />

Cielo, and Spoleil - are open daily for<br />

breakfast, lunch, and dinner.<br />

Additionally, Princess Cruises has just<br />

unveiled an enhanced beverage menu featuring<br />

globally inspired signature cocktail<br />

offerings created by master mixologist Rob<br />

Floyd. My personal favorite? A Mint Divine,<br />

a creation made from Bombay Sapphire<br />

gin, ginger beer, cucumber, lime juice, simple<br />

syrup, and fresh mint.<br />

Activities Onboard<br />

A common misconception about cruise<br />

ships is that they are exclusively for the elderly<br />

or have limited options for activities,<br />

especially on sea days. Nothing can be further<br />

from the truth, especially aboard the<br />

dynamic and family-oriented Sky Princess.<br />

Those who’ve always secretly craved fulfilling<br />

their pop star dreams can try out for<br />

Voice of the Ocean, which brings TV’s most<br />

popular singing competition to the high<br />

seas and a live audience. The process to<br />

Princess stardom begins with blind auditions,<br />

mentor sessions, the iconic “I Want<br />

You” chairs and ultimately concludes with a<br />

finale performance where passengers vote<br />

on the winner.<br />

For those who would prefer to be dumbfounded<br />

by talent from the comfort of their<br />

theatre seat rather than showing off their<br />

vocal range, Princess Sky has plentiful alternative<br />

productions. Crafted by some of the<br />

world’s top directors and choreographers,<br />

Princess Sky spectacles utilize the destinations<br />

she visits to craft imaginative and<br />

inventive shows. They often incorporate<br />

Broadway classical songs, popular hits,<br />

along with original numbers performed by<br />

a talented cast.<br />

Throughout the day and night, Princess<br />

Sky’s stunning open-air poolside amphitheater<br />

is a lively center for activities - from the<br />

premiere of feature films, to live concerts or<br />

sporting events, there is no shortage of<br />

opportunity to be both an onlooker<br />

43<br />

and a participant. Even better, all of<br />

the featured movies include cozy<br />

fleece blankets and unlimited supplies of<br />

fresh-popped popcorn - essentials to enjoy<br />

a cinema under the stars!<br />

The Sky Princess also boasts plenty of<br />

aquatic options for those hoping to exercise<br />

by swimming laps or float and suntan, pina<br />

colada in hand. Between two deep-tank<br />

pools on the lively top decks, an infinitystyle<br />

Wakeview pool and bar on the ship’s<br />

aft end, and plenty of spa hot tubs, the<br />

choices are endless for aspiring mermaids<br />

and mermen.<br />

Princess MedallionClass<br />

Another innovative addition to Sky Princess<br />

is the MedallionClass - a complimentary<br />

key all passengers are given to be connected<br />

anywhere onboard the ship. So what is<br />

this seemingly magical contraption anyway?<br />

According to Princess Cruises, “Ocean<br />

Medallion is a first-of-its-kind wearable<br />

device that elevates every moment before,<br />

during, and after your Ocean Medallion<br />

Vacation. From on-demand food and<br />

drinks, interactive gaming, custom entertainment,<br />

and smart navigation, Medallion<br />

makes cruising simpler, and more personal<br />

and enjoyable than ever.” On such an<br />

immense ship, the complimentary<br />

OceanMedallion, with its leading-edge<br />

technology and personalized service<br />

through enhanced guest-crew interactions,<br />

helps organizes passengers and give them<br />

a service that is seamless and personalized.<br />

Though the cruising industry is ever-changing<br />

and new ships are continually being<br />

christened, Princess Cruises stays true to the<br />

company values of maintaining a superior<br />

sailing experience for guests while incorporating<br />

ingenuity and innovative technology,<br />

prioritizing comfort and ease. Trust us when<br />

we say, with Sky Princess, the sky truly is the<br />

limit.<br />

www.princess.com<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


44<br />

Crystal Cruises<br />

Romantic Europe on the Reimagined<br />

“Crystal Serenity”<br />

by Janice and George Mucalov<br />

We’d been warned. Climbing up the<br />

1,350 stone steps to St. John’s<br />

Fortress in Kotor, Montenegro, is a<br />

thigh-burner. But we stopped so many times<br />

to gape at the gorgeous views of Kotor’s redtiled<br />

medieval roofs and the turquoise inlet on<br />

which the UNESCO city sits that we didn’t huff<br />

and puff too much.<br />

We were visiting Kotor while on a 7-night<br />

cruise on the deluxe Crystal Serenity, calling in<br />

at some of Europe’s most romantic ports. And<br />

Kotor must take the prize for being the most<br />

beautiful cruise port anywhere!<br />

Kotor<br />

Steep mountains rise up dramatically on<br />

either side of the Bay of Kotor, nicknamed the<br />

“southernmost fjord of Europe.” The car-free<br />

Old Town itself is a maze of cobbled alleys,<br />

with medieval stone buildings sporting characteristic<br />

green shutters.<br />

In Kotor, we could have taken a shore excursion<br />

to Perast, an old Venetian town packed<br />

with Baroque palaces. A short boat trip away<br />

is a tiny islet with the remarkable Church of<br />

Our Lady of the Rocks. Or we could have visited<br />

the ancient seaside resort of Budva, dotted<br />

with beaches.<br />

We’re glad, though, that we chose the 2.5-<br />

hour roundtrip hike to the fortress. The food<br />

on Crystal Serenity is so darn good we needed<br />

the exercise.<br />

Photo: Mucalov<br />

Crystal Cruises<br />

Crystal Cruises


Reimagined Restaurants<br />

During a one-month dry dock in November,<br />

<strong>20</strong>18, Crystal Cruises extensively refurbished<br />

the ship. The restaurants were totally spiffed<br />

up – and Serenity now offers several new and<br />

enhanced open-seating dining options.<br />

Silk, a Chinese-inspired venue featuring<br />

Chinois soup, a noodle bar and dim-sum,<br />

occupies what used to be Tastes. At night, the<br />

casual café is now the Brazilian-style<br />

Churrascaria (gauchos carve grilled meats<br />

tableside from sword-like skewers). And<br />

Waterside, which replaces the former main<br />

dining room, now offers more intimate seating<br />

with tables for two and four.<br />

Umi Uma was perhaps our favourite restaurant.<br />

Serving Japanese-Peruvian specialties<br />

from Master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa – prepared<br />

by his personally-trained chefs – the exclusive<br />

Umi Uma eateries on both Crystal Serenity<br />

and Symphony are the only Nobu restaurants<br />

at sea. Each guest gets one complimentary<br />

reservation per cruise. But we managed to<br />

slide into the sushi bar section of the specialty<br />

restaurant a second night for another crack at<br />

the rock shrimp tempura, sautéed mushroom<br />

salad and lobster with truffle-yuzu sauce. The<br />

celebrated chef’s privately branded<br />

Chardonnay went down very smoothly too.<br />

Prego, Crystal’s Italian restaurant, was also a<br />

hit. Indeed, after boarding in Civitavecchia<br />

(Rome’s cruise port), we joked with our waiter<br />

that the ship’s kitchen could teach the Romans<br />

something about Italian food. Prego’s signature<br />

mushroom soup is no ordinary soup, but<br />

a divinely creamy concoction served in a<br />

scooped-out sourdough bread bowl. And the<br />

beef carpaccio is masterfully presented – at<br />

the table, fresh lemon juice is squeezed onto<br />

the thinnest slices of beef, then Spanish olive<br />

oil and aged Balsamic are drizzled on top. A<br />

sprinkling of finely grated Parmesan caps off<br />

the dish. And don’t get us started on the<br />

home-made pastas!<br />

Dubrovnik and Other Ports<br />

Sadly, we knew that one hike in Kotor wouldn’t<br />

be enough to prevent those calories from<br />

sticking. More exercise would be needed.<br />

So in Dubrovnik, we forsook lazing about on<br />

the beach in favour of walking around the<br />

Crystal Cruises<br />

medieval stone walls encircling most of the<br />

UNESCO-listed Old Town. From up top, we<br />

gazed at a maze of red clay roofs, jumbled<br />

together with Baroque palaces and churches.<br />

At the seaside section of the wall, we peered<br />

down at a little café carved into the rocks,<br />

where people dove into the deep blue Adriatic<br />

before climbing back up for another slug of<br />

their coffee.<br />

Our ship also called in at Sorrento on Italy’s<br />

Amalfi Coast and Corfu on its way to Venice.<br />

We’d previously visited these places; the<br />

Amalfi Coast, in particular, is drop-dead stunning.<br />

But the truth is, after going ashore for a<br />

while, we actually preferred just enjoying the<br />

ship.<br />

Stylish New Suites<br />

How could we not? We were splashing out in<br />

one of the 36 new Seabreeze Penthouses,<br />

totally gussied up in the late <strong>20</strong>18 refit.<br />

Crystal essentially took a number of Deluxe<br />

Staterooms with Veranda and converted<br />

them, almost two for one, into these new 339<br />

sq. ft. Seabreeze Penthouses (reducing the<br />

passenger numbers from 1,070 to 980).<br />

Large queen-size bed? Check. Walk-in closet<br />

(with Frette bathrobes, kimonos and slippers)?<br />

Of course. Butler service? You bet. We especially<br />

liked the spa-like bathroom with double<br />

sinks, lots of drawers for toiletry kits and a<br />

large glass rain-shower (bigger than ours at<br />

home) with easy push-knobs and great water<br />

pressure – the best bathroom of the 50+<br />

ships we’ve cruised on (no tub though). Minor<br />

niggle: There’s little room between the end of<br />

the bed and the long coffee table in front of<br />

the couch opposite (so we squished the coffee<br />

table into the corner).<br />

Most staterooms and suites on the ship (85%)<br />

have verandas. Out on ours, we’d read, nap<br />

and dip into our fridge, stocked with our chosen<br />

drinks. As a top-tier cruise line, Crystal<br />

includes all champagne, premium spirits and<br />

fine wines, anywhere on the ship, in the rates.<br />

Pool and Palm Court<br />

Or we’d lounge on a comfy cushioned recliner<br />

under an umbrella by the pool.<br />

Around the pool, in fact, was a popular place<br />

to hang out. Because this cruise was a shorter<br />

Photo: Mucalov<br />

one-week cruise, guests tended to be part of<br />

the well-traveled “working wealthy” class,<br />

many in their 40s and 50s. They were making<br />

the most of their warm-weather holiday, and<br />

the champagne flowed freely. In fact, while<br />

Crystal offers longer voyages around the<br />

world, it’s upped the number of one-week<br />

cruises for <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>, which appeal to younger<br />

guests, and added 100 new itineraries.<br />

Indoors, the Palm Court at the bow has also<br />

been dolled up and is now very pretty in purple.<br />

Craving a civilized afternoon tea or quiet<br />

spot to look out floor-to-ceiling windows? This<br />

is the place – settle yourself in a wingback<br />

chair, rest your feet on a footstool and let the<br />

world pass you by.<br />

Romantic Venice<br />

One of the most enchanting times on our trip<br />

was the two-hour cruise into Venice late in the<br />

morning. Bellinis were the order of the day as<br />

we entered the lagoon, rippled with different<br />

hues of aqua and blue. We passed several<br />

islands – and then Venice itself came into<br />

view. There was St. Mark’s Square, with gondolas<br />

bobbing in front, and the Doge’s<br />

Palace, which looks like a giant wedding<br />

cake. Along the Giudecca Canal, trattorias<br />

were lined with flower-decked terraces. It was<br />

all so gorgeous, most guests were out on<br />

deck, jostling for prime photo spots.<br />

Who needed to take a vaporetto or gondola<br />

to see Venice’s sights from the water! Nothing<br />

could beat our scenic sail-in under a warm<br />

September sun. Still, it was a bitter-sweet<br />

arrival. Because while we’d be docking at one<br />

of the world’s most romantic cities, we would<br />

soon be leaving the Crystal Serenity.<br />

www.crystalcruises.com<br />

45<br />

Crystal Cruises Crystal Cruises<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


46<br />

Canal Cruising<br />

Do you know the Secrets of Luxury Barges in Europe?<br />

by Lisa TE Sonne<br />

You may have experienced oceanic<br />

cruising and even river cruising, but<br />

have you tried canal cruising on<br />

waterways first built centuries ago? In 1787<br />

Thomas Jefferson, then the U.S. Ambassador<br />

to France, wrote that of all the modes of transport<br />

he had tried, canals and their parallel<br />

foot paths were the “pleasantest form of travel.”<br />

Canal cruising has become one of my<br />

favorite modes of travel, too.<br />

Europe is still networked with hundreds of<br />

miles of canals, but today luxury “barges”<br />

serve as floating boutique hotels, with eight to<br />

22 passengers, for peaceful and intimate<br />

cruises to untouristed villages and towns as<br />

well as classic sites. Not only do you moor<br />

next to lovely scenery, sometimes even near<br />

castles or windmills, you travel at a pace that<br />

lets you really take in the realm with all your<br />

senses, and you can make the trip very relaxing<br />

or very active.<br />

You can sit on the open top deck and watch<br />

and smell and hear the world languidly glide<br />

by. You feel the sun and winds while consuming<br />

local foods and drinks. If you prefer, jump<br />

off with a bike at a canal lock. Then, pedal<br />

along the parallel “towpaths” that were once<br />

used for the animals and people who pulled<br />

the commercial and passenger barges before<br />

the era of motors.<br />

If you are like me, you may also choose to<br />

pedal down connecting paths into villages or<br />

up to churches and ramparts. Mix with the<br />

locals or take in more nature, then quickly<br />

pedal back to catch up with your boutique<br />

barge at another lock. You can end the<br />

adventure by sitting in the hot tub, enjoying<br />

the floating ride.<br />

European Waterways currently offers 17 vessels<br />

in nine different countries, making “barging”<br />

a cultural and culinary experience. Each<br />

trip includes a great chef onboard who culls<br />

local ingredients, and a server who specializes<br />

in the local cheeses and wines, generously<br />

offering different ones every lunch and dinner!<br />

A van or vans follow the boat’s path, and<br />

every day, memorable shore excursions are<br />

provided. The historian guide who knows the<br />

roads and history is flexible to what paces and<br />

places the small group of passengers wants.<br />

Scotland - Highlander Highs<br />

In Scotland, my husband and I enjoyed the<br />

lox, locks, and lochs, as we ate fine Scottish<br />

salmon, navigated through the famous<br />

Caledonian Locks (once the “greatest engineering<br />

feat of the planet”), and explored the<br />

natural lochs, including the Loch Ness. Alas,<br />

no monster sighted, but the Captain let me<br />

steer the boat then, which was scary enough<br />

for others. Loch is Scottish for lake, and the<br />

Ness one is particularly beautiful (and deep<br />

and wide, so safe for me to steer through).<br />

The Caledonian Locks were built before the<br />

Panama Canal and Suez Canal systems.<br />

Queen Victoria’s 1873 cruise of the<br />

Caledonian canals and lochs of much of our<br />

route helped popularize travel in that part of<br />

gorgeous Scotland. Now, in the 21st century,<br />

custom hotel barges and other narrow pleasure<br />

boats can experience the 29 locks of the<br />

Caledonian canals.


We loved approaching castles from the water<br />

and then touring them, but the strongest single<br />

memory is gliding through raw gorges<br />

with no signs of humanity, and faintly hearing<br />

mysterious, haunting bagpipe music that<br />

crescendoed as we proceeded. When we<br />

rounded a bend, a solitary bagpipe player in<br />

full Scottish regalia stood on vibrant green<br />

hills among the sheep. We moored near him,<br />

and he spent the evening showing us how<br />

bagpipes work and giving the eight passengers<br />

a private concert.<br />

Italy - The Beautiful Life<br />

Cruising in the iconic Grand Canal of Venice<br />

and then journeying to villages without<br />

tourists in the Po Valley was a romantic and<br />

stunning way to see Italy with my husband.<br />

We had chosen this route to celebrate a milestone<br />

birthday of mine, and the trip exceeded<br />

expectations-- from visiting Mantua and the<br />

theater where Mozart performed, to our last<br />

night, when the chef brought in a new apricot<br />

desert he had created for my birthday.<br />

Claudia, one of the best guides I’ve ever had,<br />

took us to see some of the Roman, Etruscan,<br />

Byzantine, and Renaissance influences; to<br />

have private tours of wineries; and to walk<br />

around on small lagoon islands. At one point<br />

we disembarked and were driven to Villa Ca<br />

Zen, where Lord Byron had once composed<br />

some of his best work while trying to hide out<br />

for a deep romantic affair. We were treated to<br />

a private tour by the owner, and a sumptuous<br />

meal in the Villa dining room.<br />

All this in a week without having to pack and<br />

unpack, or cook, or clean, or worry about<br />

road maps or train schedules, made cruising<br />

on “La Bella Vita” a beautiful life.<br />

Holland - Tulips and Windmills<br />

Holland is known for art, canals, cheeses,<br />

tulips, and windmills. We got it all. Starting in<br />

Amsterdam and heading through countryside<br />

canals in Spring was the perfect girlfriends’<br />

getaway for me and for Kathy, a gardening<br />

and hiking bff since we were seven years old.<br />

Kathy was all in for exploring independently<br />

as we rode bikes through different towns to<br />

look at the colorful home gardens and to<br />

check out picturesque working windmills close<br />

up. She also whole-heartedly enjoyed the<br />

cheese and wine pairings at lunch and dinner,<br />

and the fun company of fellow travelers.<br />

Spring in the world-famous Keukenhof<br />

Gardens was a sensory feast showcasing<br />

what beauty humans and nature can create<br />

together. We also visited the world’s largest<br />

flower auction in Aalsmer, to see how millions<br />

of flowers are shipped worldwide. The<br />

renowned museums and architecture of<br />

Amsterdam, Leiden, and Haarlem, and the<br />

Royal Delft China center in Delft, were all<br />

beautiful group shore excursions.<br />

A salient cruising memory was sitting in the<br />

hot tub outside, while bucolic scenes seemed<br />

to drift by. The staff brought us flutes of champagne,<br />

and we toasted. We rounded the bend<br />

and suddenly the grassy banks were full of<br />

buildings. We tried ducking into the bubbles<br />

of the spa while not losing the bubbles of our<br />

drinks, as we cruised under a bridge with<br />

people overhead cheering and giving us<br />

“thumbs up”!<br />

France - oui, oui!<br />

A kindred spirit from graduate school and I<br />

chose France for girlfriend catch-up, to laugh<br />

about the past and make more memories for<br />

the future. European Waterways has the most<br />

tour offerings in France, which has the most<br />

canals. Itineraries include Champagne,<br />

Bordeaux, Gascony, Burgundy, the Loire<br />

Valley, and Alsace and Lorraine, as well as the<br />

Canal du Midi that Jefferson enjoyed.<br />

Page and I signed up for the Burgundy<br />

trip and started in a mutually favorite<br />

city -Paris- for a couple of days before<br />

being treated like royalty on the barge. The<br />

shore excursions included chateaus, wineries,<br />

monasteries, museums, and even the village<br />

where the movie “Like Water for Chocolate”<br />

was filmed.<br />

Page is a wonderful painter, and I mentioned<br />

that I would love a watercolor lesson from her<br />

using water from the French canals. A staff<br />

member overheard and found watercolors<br />

and paper for us in the next village. Other<br />

passengers joined in, and we had a creative<br />

comradery.<br />

We both loved that every lock had a lock<br />

keeper’s house and the diversity of lock keepers<br />

that appeared was fantastic-a whole family<br />

tumbling out, a bearded guy vrooming up<br />

on his motorcycle. One lock keeper was an<br />

artist who shared his larger than life papiermaché<br />

creatures out on the canal banks.<br />

When the trip was over, we did not want to say<br />

“au revoir.”<br />

General<br />

There are some possible cons of barges compared<br />

to other cruise vehicles depending on<br />

your preferences: smaller cabins (unless you<br />

pay extra), no private balconies, and no<br />

climbing walls and casinos like large cruise<br />

ships. Another possible downside is the intimacy<br />

of being with the same small group of<br />

people for every meal and excursion.<br />

Fortunately, I have really enjoyed the fellow<br />

passengers and the range of conversations. I<br />

also love how intimately barges let you interact<br />

with the land and cultures you are travelling<br />

through.<br />

I still have more “barging” I’d like to do. My<br />

husband and I muse, Should we clink glasses<br />

in the Champagne region of France? Or float<br />

down the Thames and enjoy antiques and<br />

castles? Or is Ireland, Belgium, or Germany<br />

calling out? And I have to wonder, what would<br />

Thomas Jefferson say about this 21st century<br />

mode of canal traveling?<br />

www.europeanwaterways.com<br />

47<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


48<br />

A Round of Applause for The Encore, NCL’s latest hit<br />

by Anne-Marie Macloughlin<br />

When choosing a sunny getaway<br />

the choices can be overwhelming.<br />

Gone are the days of the basic<br />

three meal deal and limited entertainment<br />

while landlocked: nowadays cruise lines are<br />

the vacation of choice for couples and families<br />

alike and with good reason. Finding a<br />

versatile package that caters to all tastes and<br />

demographics can be challenging when<br />

seeking a spot that satisfies sun worshippers,<br />

sportsmen, foodies and fans of live entertainment.<br />

With customer satisfaction a top priority<br />

Norwegian Cruise Lines’ latest addition to<br />

the fleet does just that.<br />

Christened in the fall of <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>, The Encore<br />

revolutionizes cruising as we know it.<br />

Flexibility is the name of the game when<br />

booking a holiday so NCL took note and provides<br />

guests with an experience they can tailor<br />

to their needs. Mealtimes are flexible,<br />

dress code relaxed and entertainment varied.<br />

Accommodations range from solo traveler<br />

staterooms to suites and their “ship within a<br />

ship” the Haven. No ship would be complete<br />

without a few state-of-the-art recreational<br />

options and the Encore delivers with an 1150<br />

foot-long 2-tier go kart race track on the top<br />

deck which reaches 13 feet over the side of<br />

the ship!<br />

A big part of the excitement of cruising is<br />

when you embark on these behemoths of the<br />

seas. As we arrive at the Port of Miami we’re<br />

greeted with a line up of dazzling white<br />

palaces, the port having the honour of being<br />

the busiest cruise terminal in the world. Even<br />

for experienced cruisers it can be baffling<br />

when seeking your vessel but with the Encore,<br />

NCL has made it easy to identify. A dazzling<br />

splash of colour adorns the hull courtesy of<br />

Eduardo Arranz-Bravo, an award-winning<br />

Spanish artist. Inspired by the vibrant experience<br />

that is cruising on the Encore, Arranz-<br />

Bravo’s mural makes the Encore a standout<br />

amongst vessels.


After wrangling busy airport line-ups and<br />

transfers nothing hits the spot like a sumptuous<br />

lunch and cool drink. The self-serve<br />

Garden Café offers a mouth-watering selection<br />

that pleases all palates from tasty barbeque<br />

dishes to vegan and vegetarian<br />

options. The well-stocked bar provides cocktails<br />

for every taste and the knowledgeable<br />

staff are happy to advise baffled passengers<br />

spoiled for choice. No shipboard buffet<br />

would be complete without an ocean-themed<br />

spread, this pescatarian overwhelmed with<br />

the choice of giant tiger shrimp, calamari<br />

and juicy salmon steaks. Dinner options offer<br />

specialty dining including the award-winning<br />

Onda by Scarpetta, Mediterranean charm<br />

and classic elegance all round. For lovers of<br />

Art Deco and the choice of modern and classic<br />

dishes, the Manhattan Room offers delicious<br />

fare with distinguished presentation, the<br />

high ceilings and retro décor evoking 19<strong>20</strong>s<br />

decadence.<br />

After a short apres-dejeuner nap it was time<br />

to explore. The Encore offers diverse entertainment<br />

and recreation including the aforementioned<br />

go karts, laser tag and a virtual<br />

reality experience at the Galaxy Pavilion. As a<br />

transit user who doesn’t drive I couldn’t wait<br />

to try my hand at go karting which is a popular<br />

choice requiring early booking. As the<br />

staff helped me into my cart I started to lose<br />

my nerve and felt slightly claustrophobic<br />

when they snapped on the helmet; that said I<br />

was happy to experience the unusual sensation<br />

of whizzing around sharp bends with the<br />

ocean in the background.<br />

For younger guests the Encore provides a<br />

children’s aqua park and for the older set,<br />

the Entourage teen club where music, video<br />

games and movies provide an alternative to<br />

hanging out with the parents. Early years<br />

coordinators assist parents with the youngest<br />

guests at Guppies, sensory activities and toy<br />

time providing self-guided play. Grown ups<br />

can bust a move at the Pulse Fitness Centre<br />

or unwind in the Spa, hot stone massage and<br />

a relaxing steam room just a few of the pampering<br />

options on offer.<br />

A relaxing vacation wouldn’t be complete<br />

without the first brew of the day. I was<br />

cheered to see an actual Starbucks onboard<br />

with the usual selection and even some winter-themed<br />

drinks on offer (think<br />

Gingerbread Latte). Be warned though, the<br />

lineups are ridiculously long and the staterooms<br />

have a coffee maker handy for the<br />

queue-averse. For a post-dinner beverage<br />

pick your poison; rum-lovers will gravitate<br />

towards the Sugarcane Mojito Bar where I<br />

highly recommend the Jalapeno Mojito. For a<br />

more vintage experience the Cellars Wine<br />

Bar and its resident sommelier is an educational<br />

experience whether you favour a beefy<br />

Merlot or flirty rose. My favourite was the<br />

Mixx Bar where the experienced mixologists<br />

provides happy <strong>Canadian</strong>s with a first class<br />

Bloody Caesar!<br />

When traveling to warmer climes it makes<br />

sense to stay hydrated and a major initiative<br />

for the Encore is the elimination of plastic<br />

water bottles with the aim to be plastic free by<br />

Jan 1 <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> with its new plant-based cartons<br />

courtesy of JUST Inc. With the temperatures<br />

reaching the high 70s it made sense to stock<br />

up for our day trip to Great Stirrup Cay, NCLs<br />

private island. Part of the Berry Islands,<br />

49<br />

GSC is a former military base that’s<br />

customised for guests of the cruise<br />

line, its meals and drinks included. As we disembarked<br />

from the short tender we were<br />

overwhelmed with the smell of bbq beach<br />

fare, fresh ocean air and the fragrance of<br />

lush tropical blooms. Sun loungers are plentiful,<br />

towels preplaced on each and a variety<br />

of watersports are available including parasailing,<br />

stand up paddling and for the more<br />

timid, floating sunbeds.<br />

For the savvy souvenir shopper check out the<br />

Berry Market where you can hunt down<br />

colourful garments and shell jewellery; I even<br />

got a speedy hairdo courtesy of local stylists.<br />

Although the traditional braids feel a bit like<br />

a bargain facelift they’re the perfect do for a<br />

hot day in the islands and last for a few<br />

weeks. NCL also runs several daily excursions<br />

to Treasure Island to see the famous<br />

Bahamian swimming pigs; due to the popularity<br />

of this tour book early. Also be aware<br />

that the island vendors only take US dollars<br />

and there is no debit or credit available.<br />

After a languid day of sea, sun and sand we<br />

return to the ship to freshen up for dinner,<br />

cocktails and a show. Evening entertainment<br />

is hard to pick; do we rock along to the Tony<br />

Award-winning show “Kinky Boots” or sing<br />

along with “The Choir of Man?” Maybe an<br />

intimate evening with a Beatles cover band in<br />

the cozy Cavern bar or some stand up comedy<br />

at The Social Club? The Encore has it all<br />

so we finally enjoyed the antics of the rabblerousing<br />

reprobates of “The Choir of Man”<br />

and their energetic cover versions of beloved<br />

popular songs set in an Irish pub.<br />

Cruise life isn’t for everyone; if it’s a quiet getaway<br />

you seek the amount of on-board<br />

amenities can be overwhelming and the size<br />

of the Encore alone can be confusing. That<br />

said, where else can you access 5-star dining,<br />

luxury shopping, VIP spa treatment,<br />

Broadway-calibre shows and the opportunity<br />

to swim with pigs on Treasure Island? Many<br />

of us are seeking a break from real life where<br />

we can recharge and regenerate and pack as<br />

much as we can into a vacation. In this, the<br />

Encore delivers.<br />

www.ncl.com<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


50<br />

Luxury Hotels...Grand Resorts...Charming B&B...Opulent Villas...Quaint C<br />

Sweet Dreams Around the <strong>World</strong><br />

Stay & Play Section<br />

25hours Hotel, The Royal Bavarian, Munich<br />

by Michael Morcos<br />

Funky is a good way of describing this hotel, so is cool, hip or even psychedelic! The<br />

25 Hours Hotel is anything but a cookie cutter property, far from it. The designers<br />

and decorators of this hotel took every opportunity of making things abnormal. Even<br />

the hotel name throws you for a loop.<br />

Our hotel adventure started upon arrival where we climbed to the first-floor reception<br />

and found a red, antique, tissue covered couch in the elevator. On arriving to<br />

the welcome desk our senses were again attacked as we would feel like we were in<br />

a Sargent Pepper album cover. The scenario continued past the check-in through the<br />

blue coloured hallway to our dazzling room. It was wonder at first sight! Just about<br />

every detail in our room was a conscientious work of art. Like books that fill in for<br />

bed legs. An all-black toilet - tiles, walls and bowl. How about the new washroom<br />

sink, faucet and counter that resemble something from a century ago. It was all very<br />

puzzling and yet it worked.<br />

As for location, Munich was practically at our doorstep. Located directly in front of<br />

the train station, getting to and from any European destination was easy. At the corner<br />

of the street was a metro station and Munich’s major attractions were just a short<br />

walk away.<br />

Breakfasts at the hotel were delightful. Served buffet style, the choices were varied<br />

and plentiful, starting with wonderful fresh and hearty German breads, fine cheeses<br />

and delicious cold cuts to eggs prepared in any style. The atmosphere in the breakfast<br />

room echoed the hotel. Weird, wild and just about right, as were the mostly<br />

young to middle aged clients.<br />

Travelling is all about the new and different. A stay at the 25 Hours Hotel was<br />

refreshing and certainly memorable. After a stay like this, it sure did make me think<br />

about how boring some hotels really are and with properties across Europe; the<br />

experience can carry on and on.<br />

www.25hours-hotels.com<br />

Steve Herud<br />

Steve Herud<br />

Steve Herud<br />

NH Collection Madrid Suecia<br />

by Michael Morcos<br />

When in Spain stay with the Spanish, and<br />

hotel chains do not come any more Spanish<br />

than the NH hotel group. Now operating<br />

more than 350 hotels in 28 markets, this<br />

Madrid-based hotel group knows how to do<br />

hospitality right as I would attest to on this, my<br />

fourth stay with this chain.<br />

Our recent trip to Madrid would bring us to a<br />

NH Collection property, on the upper end of<br />

the hotel offerings is the NH Collection Suecia<br />

hotel, which is perfectly located on a quiet<br />

side street close to most of the major sites. A<br />

half block away was the intersections of the<br />

busy and well-appointed boulevards of Calle<br />

de Alcalá and Gran Via. A short distance from<br />

here is the world famous Prado museum, the<br />

majestic Plaza Mayor and the centre of Spain<br />

– the Puerta del Sol.<br />

To add to this great location, the hotel is<br />

handsomely decorated with a Scandinavia<br />

look and feel. Upon arriving you could feel a<br />

buzz in the air. The restaurant and bar situated<br />

on the ground floor were filled with clients<br />

and visitors enjoying the great atmosphere.<br />

The staff was extremely helpful and took every<br />

opportunity of assisting us through our checkin.<br />

My room was just about perfect, clean and<br />

comfortable with all the modern amenities<br />

one would expect from a high-end hotel. Not<br />

wanting to miss out on visiting the sites I<br />

would break away for a few hours to see the<br />

best this beautiful city had to offer only to<br />

return to the tranquillity of my home away<br />

from home.<br />

Unfortunately, I did not visit the rooftop bar. I<br />

was told it had a panoramic view of the whole<br />

of Madrid. Kind of felt good about it as now I<br />

will have to return.<br />

www.nh-hotels.com<br />

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51<br />

If you turn right outside the hotel, you’re in<br />

one of the city’s major shopping areas complete<br />

with Starbucks, restaurants and departof<br />

the three most beautiful gardens in all of<br />

Japan. And then there is the amazing<br />

Museum of Contemporary Art and small<br />

streets with artistic cafes, as you complete a<br />

circle back to the Tokyu Hotel.<br />

John Yang noted that Kanazawa, with a population<br />

of 500,000 has the same<br />

viewing/tourism potential as Tokyo and<br />

Kyoto, but it’s easier to digest. In fact he<br />

noted that “the food is fresher, the people are<br />

extremely friendly and there are lots of<br />

hands-on activities designed for visitors”.<br />

Since the Shinkansen (the bullet train) was<br />

directly linked to Kanazawa from Tokyo in<br />

<strong>20</strong>15, tourism to Japan’s Golden Triangle<br />

(Tokyo to Hokuriku (Kanazawa) to Kansai<br />

(Kyoto) has increased significantly. And for<br />

those looking to use Kanazawa as a base, it’s<br />

only one hour to Shirakawago (the famous<br />

Gasho-Zukuri (praying hands) houses) and<br />

to Wajima on the tip of the Noto peninsula.<br />

The Kanazawa Tokyu Hotel<br />

You could not ask for a better location<br />

than the Kanazawa Tokyu Hotel. Zhi<br />

“John” Yang, the Overseas Sales<br />

Representative explained that “our guests feel<br />

they are right in the center of Kanazawa”, and<br />

he was absolutely correct!<br />

Turn left outside the front door and you’re in<br />

the famous Nagamachi Samurai District with<br />

the Nomura Clan Family Home and its twostar<br />

Michelin garden.<br />

Article and photography by Steve Gillick<br />

ment stores such as Tokyu Hands (a great<br />

store for buying unique Japanese items). And<br />

behind Tokyu Square you’ll find Chokichi, for<br />

a super-friendly, stand-up sake bar experience.<br />

And many of Kanazawa’s main attractions<br />

are only <strong>20</strong> to 30 minute’s walk from the<br />

hotel. This includes the Oyama Jinja Shrine<br />

(take a selfie with the lucky Golden Frogs), the<br />

Omi-cho Fish Market (colorful displays,<br />

engaging vendors…and you can eat there<br />

too), Kanazawa Castle Park (visit the partially<br />

restored Castle that was originally built in<br />

1583), and Kenroku-en, designated as one<br />

But the attraction of the Kanzawa Tokyu Hotel<br />

goes beyond location with its unique<br />

Japanese style. The wallpaper in the hallways<br />

depicts a winter scene of “yukizuri”, which<br />

are the wooden frames that are built around<br />

trees to protect them from the winter winds<br />

and snow (you can see yukizuri in Kenrokuen<br />

garden). The elevators reflect a gold leaf<br />

design, paying homage to the local legend<br />

that explains the meaning of ‘Kanazawa’ as<br />

‘Marsh of Gold’. In fact, visitors can get<br />

involved in the gold leaf industry which dates<br />

to the end of the 16th century, by taking a<br />

gold leaf workshop and eating gold ice<br />

cream! And even the hallway carpets in the<br />

hotel have a Japanese feel with designs of<br />

gold sakura (cherry blossoms). It’s all very<br />

well done!<br />

The ultimate measure of contentedness, of<br />

course, is in the quality of the hotel room,<br />

and our room was comfortable, quiet and<br />

spacious with a great view of the Japanese<br />

Alps. I’ll stay here again!<br />

www.tokyuhotels.co.jp/kanazawa-h/<br />

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bars from Ananí to Brassa Grill. Next door<br />

is Playa Blanca, a beachfront tropical<br />

restaurant. Our Dine Around Program<br />

offers the best sampling of our finest culinary<br />

experience. All restaurants offer complimentary<br />

shuttle service within the resort.<br />

More dining options are available at<br />

Puntacana Village.<br />

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We believe that in development there<br />

needs to be equilibrium among the economic,<br />

environmental and social components.<br />

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our hotels or private homes. Punta Cana<br />

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The Caribbean’s Premiere Golf<br />

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www.puntacana.com


54<br />

Bungalow Beach Resorts: Floridian Tropical Bliss on Anna Maria Island<br />

by Jennifer Merrick<br />

“They look like parrots,” I remarked to<br />

my daughter who was pointing at the<br />

colourful blue and green birds on the<br />

telephone wire. But that wasn’t possible,<br />

was it? We were in Florida after all, hardly<br />

far enough south for these tropical feathered<br />

creatures.<br />

“They were parrots,” said local Gayle<br />

Luper. “Many people don’t realize our climate<br />

zone is the same as much of the<br />

Caribbean.”<br />

I certainly hadn’t. Not only did that explain<br />

our sighting, but also how gloriously<br />

turquoise and warm the water was.<br />

We were on Anna Maria Island, a barrier<br />

island on Florida’s gulf coast about an hour<br />

south of Tampa. Often referred to as AMI,<br />

it’s a locale that encapsulates the so-called<br />

‘Old Florida’. Buildings are limited to three<br />

stories, and it’s one of the few places left<br />

where you can buy fish straight off the boat.<br />

We experienced this special treat in nearby<br />

Cortez Village, where we watched folks<br />

buying fish after it was weighed on the<br />

dock, while enjoying the most succulent<br />

peel-and-eat shrimp imaginable at Tide<br />

Tables Restaurant.<br />

It would take thirty minutes to drive across<br />

the island, but why drive when there was a<br />

free trolley that ran from one end of the<br />

island to another. Golf carts were another<br />

popular means of transportation, and seeing<br />

them driven on the main road exemplified<br />

the laid-back vibe of AMI to a tee. My<br />

favourite form of transport though was<br />

walking barefoot on the beach, which we<br />

spent most of our time doing while staying<br />

at Bungalow Beach Resort.<br />

This classic accommodation is Anna Maria<br />

Island in a nutshell – unpretentious and<br />

serenely beautiful. Each of the fifteen cedar<br />

bungalows has their own charm and range<br />

from one-room studios to two-bedroom<br />

bungalows with a private pool. All feature<br />

original architectural details of its 1930’s<br />

construction with original hardwood floors<br />

and wood-beamed cathedral ceilings. The<br />

white wicker furniture and beachy accents<br />

evoked an island mentality as soon as we<br />

crossed the threshold. A fully-equipped<br />

kitchen, BBQ grills in the courtyard and<br />

colourful beach lounge chairs were some<br />

of the amenities provided.<br />

But it was the view when we slid the back<br />

door open that endeared me to this property<br />

forever. The back porch sat right on the<br />

beach, providing a postcard perfect view of<br />

fine white sand stretching out to the<br />

turquoise water and blue skies on par with<br />

any tropical paradise I’ve had the good fortune<br />

to visit. Complete with parrots.<br />

www.bungalowbeach.com<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


55<br />

Breathless Riviera Cancun - Viva the Vibe Choice!<br />

by Susan Campbell<br />

Can you have trendy, luxurious, energetic and laid-back all in one<br />

place at an upscale, adult-only all-inclusive resort? Yes, you can!<br />

The Xcelerate Pool crests the nexus of the<br />

community courtyard where you will find all<br />

the dining spots. It also and serves as the<br />

main social gathering venue for special events<br />

like the weekly Neon Party. The After Dark<br />

nightclub is also found there, and the massive<br />

Spoon Buffet is open 24/7 – a first I’ve seen at<br />

an all-inclusive. (Ideal for late night<br />

munchies.) There you’ll find the easy-going<br />

partiers kicking back in couches in the pool,<br />

or in the large whirlpool or pool bar by the<br />

sea, and maybe playing a game of beach volleyball.<br />

The music is lively, but not too loud!<br />

This is also where they hold their fantastic<br />

Saturday night beach barbecue- one of the<br />

best I’ve ever had, so don’t miss it!<br />

Opened in <strong>20</strong>16, Breathless Riviera<br />

Cancun Resort & Spa is an upscale<br />

adult-only all-inclusive of 526 ultrachic<br />

suites located near Puerto Morales about<br />

<strong>20</strong> minutes from the airport. They have a signature<br />

offering- Unlimited Luxury®- which<br />

means boundless gourmet dining and premium<br />

brand beverages at multiple stand-alone<br />

themed restaurants and fab bars and<br />

lounges. And the 24/7 room service is also a<br />

huge bonus! The concept of this resort brand<br />

is squarely focused on energetic millennial<br />

travellers seeking lots of action - think foam<br />

pool parties, booming music and late-night<br />

blow-outs. But in this resort you can have the<br />

best of all possible worlds.<br />

Being a ‘mature’ traveler, sometimes I simply<br />

want to chill by the sea without having to feel<br />

like I’m missing all the fun. But that’s the<br />

beauty of this spot- the design is pure genius.<br />

You can slide from vibe to vibe and back<br />

again without skipping a beat. But if you want<br />

to experience the entire range of ambiance<br />

options there, you must choose to stay at the<br />

Xhale Club wing.<br />

Xhale Zone<br />

VIP treatment is the rule at the Xhale Clubprivate<br />

check-in and concierge, and an exclusive<br />

club lounge space are a few of the perks.<br />

Elevated accommodations include spacious<br />

modern, rooms with big whirlpool tubs on the<br />

balcony, or a choice of luxe swim-out suites.<br />

Exclusive entrance to the Xhale Club private<br />

pool and the Kibbeh restaurant- an enchanting<br />

alfresco dining spot on the sea are also<br />

part of the package. I loved the layout and the<br />

Zen music at the infinity pool, but when it’s<br />

time to take it up a notch, head next door to<br />

the Xcelerate Pool zone.<br />

Xcelerate Zone<br />

High Energy Zone<br />

Don’t get too comfortable in that oasis<br />

though, because a carnival style<br />

“Champagne Parade” will soon show up to<br />

remind you that there is yet another much<br />

higher-octane option right next door, and<br />

beckon you to follow them there. If you do,<br />

you’ll find yourself in the thick of the South<br />

Beach style blow-out at the Energy Zone<br />

replete with exclusive champagne bars, hot<br />

DJs, and really loud music! The vibe is infectious,<br />

so you’re bound to do some bootyshaking<br />

no matter what your age. But if you<br />

happen to overdo it, and need to recuperate<br />

and recharge, then head to their Relax Spa by<br />

Pevonia®. It’s a comprehensive facility with<br />

everything one could need to revive mind<br />

body and spirit so you can go vibe-hopping<br />

all over again the very next day.<br />

www.breathlessresorts.com<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


56<br />

Bali’s Best Kept Secret: The Mansion Hotel<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

It’s no secret that Bali, Indonesia, the<br />

pinpoint of paradise in the Indian<br />

Ocean, has been very much discovered<br />

and developed. In fact, an estimated<br />

5 million tourists flock to the island (which<br />

is only about 5,000 km) each year! But in a<br />

destination with such tourism saturation,<br />

one secret that remains yet undiscovered is<br />

The Mansion Hotel.<br />

The property is one of Bali’s rare gems hidden<br />

away in the outskirts of Ubud. Ubud,<br />

the island’s cultural center that is traditionally<br />

Balinese in its architecture, culinary<br />

innovations, and colorful bustle, feels<br />

entirely remote and removed from the<br />

crowded touristic beaches on the coasts.<br />

The Mansion prides itself in maintaining<br />

that authenticity and commitment to community,<br />

nestled in the artistic haven of<br />

Penestanana on the Sayan River. And<br />

though just a few minutes’ drive to the center<br />

of Ubud, pulling up to the extravagant<br />

entrance of the hotel makes you forget civilization<br />

is nearby. Suddenly you are<br />

immersed in a tropical, lush green park<br />

estate where nature reigns.<br />

Each of the expertly designed rooms and<br />

their views are a testament to the hotel’s<br />

relationship with the natural surroundings -<br />

you will find yourself falling asleep with<br />

either views of the courtyard or within tropical<br />

gardens. Additionally, each spacious<br />

room houses artwork from local artisans,<br />

exemplifying the property’s relationship<br />

with the community. The resort boasts 150<br />

rooms, from Deluxe to Penthouse Suites,<br />

each with immaculately designed interiors.<br />

The Mansion Wellness Center is otherworldly<br />

and differentiates from the majority<br />

of surrounding “massage parlors” nearby<br />

because of its diverse menu and range of<br />

services - from yoga instructors to cosmetic<br />

dentists to even dance therapists! In addition<br />

to a wide variety of holistic massages<br />

and treatments, the spa also features a<br />

healing pool, with water filtered by crystal<br />

blue structure units which enhance and<br />

energize.<br />

A getaway to The Mansion would be suitable<br />

for a range of travelers - from those<br />

who prefer to lounge in the hot tub and<br />

rejuvenate, to those who wish to elevate<br />

their health with an extensive wellness<br />

treatment, to even the active types who feel<br />

motivated to swim laps in the resort's many<br />

pools. No matter your traveling style, if<br />

you’re interested in escaping Bali’s crowds<br />

and relaxing in paradise, The Mansion is<br />

the Indonesian hotel of choice.<br />

www.themansionbali.com<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


57<br />

Vancouver Island Favourite: Oak Bay Beach Hotel<br />

Article by Ilona Kauremszky, photography Stephen Smith<br />

The Instagrammable Hotel Zed<br />

Article by Ilona Kauremszky, photography Stephen Smith<br />

If there could be whale whisperers on site, why not head to Oak Bay<br />

Beach Hotel in Victoria to seek them.<br />

The posh property on Vancouver Island overlooks one of Victoria's most<br />

prized secluded bays on Canada's dramatic Pacific Coast that has been<br />

attracting locals and those with a penchant for Old Brit Victoria charm<br />

ever since the historic hotel opened in 1927.<br />

Not unusual to see whales in summer months.<br />

Nestled on the shores of the Pacific Ocean the Oak Bay Beach Hotel<br />

overlooks the Juan de Fuca Strait with ocean views of snow-capped<br />

Mount Baker seen in the distance. Only minutes from quaint boutique<br />

shops, cafes, and galleries of Oak Bay Village, a charming nook that<br />

dates back to Victoriana days, this hotel is a worthy legacy to its<br />

renowned predecessor.<br />

The original Oak Bay Beach<br />

Hotel underwent a few reincarnations<br />

with a major $52CDNmillion<br />

revamp that saw each<br />

brick, beam and leaded window<br />

labeled and stored during<br />

a 6 year refurbishment that<br />

restored and expanded the<br />

hotel's footprint to what you see<br />

today.<br />

These days wellness seekers arrive to soak in the scenery and if you're<br />

super lucky you just might catch views of whales slapping their back<br />

fins. Failing that the outdoor pool's stylized mosaic tile depicts a ring of<br />

Orcas embedded on the pool floor.<br />

www.oakbaybeachhotel.com<br />

This locally-owned boutique hotel espouses to showcase sixties<br />

and seventies stuff that once ruled households across America.<br />

Pet friendly, motor cycle friendly, family friendly yet it brings in<br />

the business travel guests too with its meeting room.<br />

Here you'll step back in time at the three-story roadside motel and start<br />

to snap Insta-hits. There's the living room lobby, the ping pong table,<br />

the typewriters, the rotary phones, even LPs from yesteryear.<br />

No wonder this local hotel gem in Victoria, B.C. has been deemed one<br />

of the world's most Instagrammable hotels. There's a backdrop ready to<br />

be snapped.<br />

Hotel Zed is for folks who don't take themselves too seriously and want<br />

to kick back and have fun. It's the hotel where play and hip go together<br />

like Fred and Ginger.<br />

The play happens at Hotel Zed's<br />

“ground zero” in a stand alone building.<br />

Staff greet and do the check in<br />

here but you may not want to get to<br />

your room so fast. The reception overlooks<br />

the living room lobby lounge<br />

laden in kitsch and funky décor.<br />

Guests can channel a Jack Kerouac stoop, shoulders hunched over a<br />

typewriter typing a letter back home. Pluck a record from the vinyl heap<br />

and throw on a tune, maybe from the seventies disco days. Crash on a<br />

couch and play a board game in the lobby or people watch as guests<br />

arrive with skateboards or bike helmets. The property offers free bike<br />

and skateboard rentals.<br />

The rooms have their own splashy character. Find an industrial era desk<br />

from the Mad Men days. Use the rotary phone to hear the incessant<br />

buzz it makes before you dial. Can't figure out how to dial out? There's<br />

a step-by-step rotary phone manual.<br />

Victoria might be known for its Britishness –<br />

the love of the stiff upper lip, protocol and<br />

all – but this location is spinning a new<br />

Victoria-vibe with its edginess that's filling a<br />

new hotel space missing before.<br />

www.hotelzed.com<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


60<br />

Aruba - Four Stylish Ways to Stay<br />

Secret Romantic Escape - Aruba Ocean Villas<br />

by Susan Canpbell<br />

Upscale Elegant - The Ritz-Carlton Aruba<br />

by Susan Canpbell<br />

The absolute ultimate in adult-only romance is secreted<br />

away in Savaneta on the island’s southeast coast. So well<br />

hidden, you wouldn’t even know it’s there unless someone<br />

tells you where the gate is! But that’s the idea. This intimate boutique<br />

resort was designed as a surprising hidden Eden for those<br />

seeking privacy and an incredibly special stay. Choose from a collection<br />

of South Pacific style overwater bungalows, beach villas,<br />

and even a two-story treehouse ─ each with its own unique character<br />

and all personally decorated by the owner/artist herself. This<br />

is where creativity meets<br />

barefoot luxury and epic<br />

amenities abound like<br />

boat-style lounge decks<br />

with swings, hammocks,<br />

Bali daybeds, deep-soaking<br />

tubs, personal dipping<br />

pools, Jacuzzis and even<br />

pianos and crystal chandeliers<br />

to name just a few.<br />

The tiki style beach bar is<br />

the nexus of social life, and the tables on the beach are perfect<br />

for romantic for toes-in-the-sand dining. There is also one private<br />

overwater palapa for dining (reservations mandatory) or you can<br />

have dinner served in your villa.<br />

There’s also great snorkeling, and complimentary sea kayaks<br />

allow you to explore the surrounding mangroves. For couple’s<br />

massages, there’s a special<br />

spa palapa perch or you<br />

can have treatments right<br />

in your room. Extremely<br />

attentive and personal<br />

service is the hallmark of<br />

this enchanting little hideaway,<br />

so whatever your<br />

heart desires to make your<br />

retreat extra special, they<br />

will do their absolute best<br />

to make it happen.<br />

www.arubaoceanvillas.com<br />

The glamourous grandeur that awaits within isn’t readily<br />

apparent at first glance at the exterior of this massive mustard-coloured<br />

complex on Palm Beach, but you know when<br />

the Ritz-Carlton name is on it, once inside, it won’t disappoint.<br />

And it doesn’t. Your first steps into the gleaming marble lobby will<br />

signal you’ve truly arrived at an opulent class of stay. This is<br />

where a two-story glassed-in panoramic view of the island’s stunning<br />

aqua sea is your<br />

backdrop at the Divi<br />

Lobby Bar and where<br />

guests are invited to<br />

view incredible sunsets<br />

and receive complimentary<br />

samples of their<br />

signature drink to celebrate<br />

the day’s end. All<br />

3<strong>20</strong> modern and stylishly<br />

appointed guestrooms<br />

and suites offer<br />

private balconies and<br />

ocean views, and on<br />

the 7th floor, Club Level guests enjoy their own private lounge<br />

and upgraded amenities. Luxury shopping, a glitzy 24/7 casino, a<br />

first-rate spa and fitness centre, and dining at a choice of themed<br />

restaurants offer pastimes, but most will spend their days by the<br />

two pools (one adult-only and one family friendly) and lounging<br />

on the sprawling beachfront<br />

where you can view<br />

the colorful kites dancing<br />

in the sky from the kiteboarders<br />

practicing next<br />

door. Though excellent<br />

personal service is typically<br />

a Ritz-Carlton trademark,<br />

of special note at<br />

this one is the beachfront<br />

servers who deliver your<br />

food and drink aboard Segways—so much fun to watch.<br />

www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/caribbean/aruba<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


61<br />

Boho-Chic Beach House Style Stay<br />

Boardwalk Boutique Hotel<br />

by Susan Canpbell<br />

Elevated Family-Friendly Escape<br />

Divi Aruba Phoenix Beach Resort<br />

by Susan Canpbell<br />

When twin sisters Kimberley and Stephanie Rooijakkers<br />

decided to convert a bare basics windsurfer’s hangout<br />

near Palm Beach into a chic little beach house style resort,<br />

they had no idea it would become the darling of alternative style<br />

off-radar stays on island and a Trip Advisor favourite for five years<br />

running. Located in a historic coconut plantation, with an inviting<br />

little pool surrounded by lush greenery, the entire property is dotted<br />

with colorful and creative extras personally envisioned by the owners<br />

themselves like their signature “Treasure Chest” ─ a box full of<br />

helpful tips in each room on how and where to enjoy the island’s<br />

best local pleasures.<br />

The original complex had<br />

only 14 rooms, but<br />

they’ve since added an<br />

entirely new wing now<br />

bringing the casita count<br />

to 46. The new wing has<br />

its own multi-experience<br />

pool with an over-water<br />

hammock. and they now<br />

offer daily poolside bar<br />

service for Happy Hour,<br />

too. Each cottage style room or suite has its own cool and quirky<br />

character, some with personal dipping pools or outdoor showers,<br />

and every room has a full kitchen and BBQ. Their new Lobby Bar<br />

café will offer some food and beverage service, and though the<br />

hotel is not on the sea, it’s a<br />

short stroll across the street<br />

to their Boardwalk Beach<br />

palapa paradise strip in the<br />

sand right beside the Ritz-<br />

Carlton Aruba. You can<br />

also order food and drink at<br />

discounted costs from the<br />

Ritz, and have it delivered by<br />

those fun servers riding<br />

Segways.<br />

www.boardwalkaruba.com<br />

This towering phoenix rising above Palm Beach is part of<br />

Aruba Divi family, but unlike its sister resorts around Eagle<br />

Beach, it doesn’t offer an all-inclusive option. (Though you<br />

can include buffet breakfast.) It was designed to provide an elevated<br />

home-away-from-home style of cosmopolitan accommodation<br />

for folks who prefer to cook some of their own meals. All 240<br />

rooms and suites have gorgeous, well-equipped modern kitchens<br />

with everything one could<br />

need to entertain (except the<br />

food,) and there are also<br />

community barbecues. Onsite<br />

laundry facilities is another<br />

convenient extra.<br />

Choose from spacious studios<br />

and one-two-bedroom suites<br />

or go more upscale with a split-level penthouse, and all accommodations<br />

boast modern amenities and are decorated with cheery<br />

splashes of Caribbean colours. It’s great for families since they<br />

have a dedicated children’s pool, lots of activities, and the calm,<br />

kid-friendly surf is due to manmade breakwaters on their beach. In<br />

low season, children under 12 stay free (one per paying adult).<br />

“Pure” is the theme for all the<br />

on-site food and beverage<br />

options ─ trendy purebeach has<br />

creative tapas and small bites,<br />

pureocean is their signature<br />

alfresco dining room, and puredeli<br />

offers great fare to-go<br />

including an ice cream bar. But<br />

as fabulous as this spot is for<br />

families, it’s not without its sultry<br />

side for couples. Many of the superior suites have with luxe<br />

whirlpool tubs with built-in neon lights, their special romance package<br />

includes private palapa seaside dining by torchlight, and the<br />

pureindulgence spa offers couple’s massage either inside or surfside.<br />

www.diviresorts.com<br />

Aruba - Four Stylish Ways to Stay<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


A South African Odyssey<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

perfection at The Shortmarket Club, an industrial<br />

19<strong>20</strong>'s "members-only" inspired space<br />

downtown, foodies find no shortage of<br />

delights either.<br />

To Stay:<br />

A romantic escape from downtown is Cape<br />

View Clifton, a boutique hotel with seven suites<br />

all open to uninterrupted views of Cape Town’s<br />

iconic coastline. The rooms are bright, airy<br />

and spacious, nestled into the slopes of Lion’s<br />

Head Mountain and adjacent to Clifton Beach.<br />

Cape View Clifton is ideal for couples or honeymooners<br />

desiring intimacy and privacy.<br />

A family-friendly option nestled in Bantry Bay,<br />

the area between the bustling city and the idyllic<br />

Atlantic Coast, is The President Hotel. With<br />

349 luxury rooms and child-friendly apartments<br />

with full-functioning kitchenettes, this<br />

hotel quickly feels like home. Better yet, the<br />

hotel has full-service restaurants and cafes,<br />

epitomizing convenience for the busy family.<br />

The Vineyards:<br />

The words “wine” and “Stellenbosch,” the<br />

flourishing region east of Cape Town sprawling<br />

with vines, have been synonymous with<br />

one another since the first Dutch settlers<br />

arrived in the17th century. Though I was<br />

astonished by the vast stretches of vineyards, I<br />

soon realized that wine isn’t the only striking<br />

aspect of the area: it also boasts intriguing history,<br />

culture, natural beauty, and ample outdoor<br />

adventure opportunities, such as daylong<br />

hikes through the mountains.<br />

To Stay:<br />

South Africa’s gorgeous beaches, craggy<br />

mountains, and lush bush make it a<br />

premier destination for those seeking to<br />

be more intimately immersed in nature while<br />

also treating themselves to a standard of elegance.<br />

The choice of destinations and accommodation<br />

is as varied as South Africa’s geography<br />

itself. Whether it's a brand new attraction,<br />

a hidden gem that I have yet to discover,<br />

or even somewhere familiar and nostalgic, a<br />

trip to South Africa is always an odyssey.<br />

The City:<br />

A visit to South Africa is incomplete without a<br />

stop in Cape Town, The Mother City. If you’ve<br />

never traveled to this gem cupping the edge of<br />

the continent, my first recommendation is<br />

snapping a picture on top of Table Mountain<br />

after a leisurely gondola ride, gaining perspective<br />

of the city’s intricate layout. A hive for<br />

both local and international chefs, Cape Town<br />

offers a wide array of dining options. From<br />

sundowners overlooking Camps Bay beach at<br />

the trendy Surfshack diner to a filet cooked to<br />

A leisurely day trip to wine country is complete<br />

once spending a night at Santé Wellness<br />

Retreat and Spa, a Spanish Colonial-style<br />

building flanked by the beautiful Drakenstein<br />

mountains. With a complete spa treatment<br />

menu, a diversity of healthy eating options,<br />

and 360-degree views of verdant nature,<br />

relaxation, and rejuvenation are paramount at<br />

Cape View Clifton


63<br />

The President Hotel<br />

The Fancourt Hotel<br />

The Outpost Lodge<br />

Santé. The property would be the perfect itinerary<br />

addition for a couple craving seclusion<br />

or individuals hoping to kick start a healthy<br />

routine.<br />

The Nature:<br />

After a few days exploring Cape Town, I<br />

began to get antsy to see what the rest of the<br />

country has to offer. Luckily, South Africa’s<br />

Garden Route, extending from Cape Town to<br />

the Eastern Cape, is the ultimate road trip.<br />

Along the verdurous coast, you can swim in<br />

the Indian Ocean or whale watch in the bay.<br />

You can try bungee from the world’s tallest<br />

bungee or sip a white wine from the boutique<br />

Kay & Monty Vineyards. The Garden Route<br />

winds an enchanting spell along South<br />

Africa’s coasts, and the drive’s nickname pays<br />

homage to its intricate and stunning ecological<br />

diversity.<br />

To Stay:<br />

I recommend settling into The Old Rectory, the<br />

boutique beach hotel located in Plettenberg<br />

Bay, South Africa’s surfer and seaside paradise.<br />

Dating back to 1777, this property dually<br />

cherishes its history by maintaining is charm<br />

and heritage while adapting to the present<br />

with seamless renovations. This family-friendly<br />

hotel is located just meters away from top<br />

beaches and restaurants oozing with the smell<br />

of freshly caught fish.<br />

If you’re looking for the ultimate leisure<br />

escape amidst a hectic itinerary, The Fancourt<br />

Hotel, in the colonial town of George, is the<br />

answer. The resort breathes nature, located<br />

on 613 hectares of Garden Route countryside,<br />

sitting in the folds of the Outeniqua<br />

Mountains.<br />

Golf lovers will find paradise at The Fancourt<br />

— the property’s three golf courses have consistently<br />

ranked as top in the country. The<br />

hotel is family-friendly—while children can<br />

splash in the pools or rent bikes, adults may<br />

relax in the harmonious Roman Bath and spa.<br />

If you crave a touch of safari experience while<br />

traversing the Garden Route, then the allinclusive<br />

Inzolo Lodge, a getaway just north of<br />

Port Elizabeth, is the choice. The wild game<br />

roam freely through the unique mountainous<br />

landscape here. This hidden pinpoint of paradise<br />

caters to upscale and sophisticated<br />

clientele, with only four chalets and elegant<br />

décor.<br />

The Bush:<br />

No trip to South Africa is complete without<br />

experiencing the most remote areas in the<br />

bush, waking up with the sun to the sounds of<br />

mating impalas and snorting warthogs,<br />

falling asleep each evening under the stars,<br />

the grass stirring as the hungry lioness hunts<br />

for her dinner under the light of the moon.<br />

Hoedspruit Airport is about a one-hour flight<br />

from the country’s capital, Johannesburg,<br />

and is the gateway to the country’s wildlife<br />

heartland.<br />

To Stay:<br />

Becks Safari Lodge, situated on the 9,000-<br />

hectare Karongwe Private Game Reserve in<br />

the Limpopo Province, offers guests intimacy<br />

in the heart of the African bush. The lodge is<br />

easily accessible, about an hour’s drive away<br />

from the Hoedspruit Airport. There are ten<br />

luxury safari units offering views of either the<br />

Makhutswi River or a popular watering hole<br />

where I spotted a warthog from the intimacy<br />

of my own porch! With its bomas (a tradition-<br />

al campfire dinner), an infinity pool sitting on<br />

the edge of the bush, and guided walks led by<br />

rangers throughout the dramatic landscape,<br />

Becks would be the optimal safari choice for<br />

families with older children (12 and up) or<br />

couples.<br />

Hidden in the northwestern corner of South<br />

Africa, delicately touching Mozambique and<br />

Zimbabwe, The Outpost Lodge, provides a<br />

unique safari experience where nature reigns.<br />

This northern sector of Kruger National Park is<br />

known as the Eden of Kruger and home to<br />

80% of the park’s biodiversity. The lodge provides<br />

plentiful opportunity to be immersed in<br />

this unique landscape, including bush walks,<br />

game drives, and 180-degree views from<br />

rooms. The Outpost is easily accessible by<br />

flight with a transfer and is the ideal lodge for<br />

an adventurer looking for a more remote,<br />

wild area to explore.<br />

The sophisticated and secluded Dulini Lodge<br />

is the optimal choice for a discerning traveler,<br />

just two hours from Hoedspruit airport in Sabi<br />

Sands. The main lodge, showcasing traditional<br />

African artwork, is a welcome place of<br />

luxury, where human connection and conversation<br />

are paramount. Dulini Lodge would be<br />

the ideal choice for honeymooning couples,<br />

with intimacy in six thatched suites, each with<br />

their private plunge pools and privacy.<br />

From its jagged, unspoiled coastline to its<br />

bustling metropolitan areas, from its rugged,<br />

untamed bush to some of the world’s most<br />

condensed and intense floral biodiversity on<br />

the Garden Route, one thing is for sure: South<br />

Africa encompasses it all.<br />

www.southafrica.net<br />

The Old Rectory<br />

Becks Safari Lodge<br />

Dulini Lodge<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


Sichuan Cuisine<br />

Travelers Know They Have reached China After They Indulge in the Local Delicacies<br />

by Habeeb Salloum, M.S.M.


The Sichuan kitchen, one of the world’s<br />

great kitchens and one of the most emphatically<br />

flavoured cuisines in all of China, was<br />

for centuries well hidden to the outside<br />

world. However in China it has always been<br />

legendary for its sophistication, richness and<br />

diversity, boasting a variety of at least 5,000<br />

different dishes.<br />

65<br />

Sichuan food, also known in the West<br />

as the Szechuan Cuisine, is one of<br />

the most famous of China’s regional<br />

culinary arts. Emphasizing the use of chilli, it<br />

is renowned for its pungent and spicy<br />

flavours. Sichuan cooks enhance their<br />

kitchen further by the use of chilli pepper oil,<br />

Sichuan peppercorn, sesame seeds, garlic,<br />

ginger, as well as fermented soybeans and<br />

vegetables, adding a myriad of tastes to<br />

their dishes. It is said that one who has not<br />

enjoyed Sichuan food has never reached<br />

China.<br />

Located along the Yangtze, Sichuan, isolated<br />

by mountains has developed a regional<br />

identity. A land of beautiful lakes, hot<br />

springs, deep ravines, limestone caves and<br />

waterfalls, it is known in China as ‘the land<br />

of plenty’. Sichuan is very fertile and the land<br />

produces abundant agricultural crops and a<br />

profusion of strong herbs and herb-like<br />

spices. As well, its cuisine is the spicy hottest<br />

in China. This has given the inhabitants the<br />

reputation for being a bit spicy - local<br />

women are known as la mei zi, ‘spice girls’.<br />

Strangely, chilli pepper has had a great<br />

hand in making the Sichuan Cuisine a much<br />

sought after food. It is believed that the red<br />

pepper is so popular in this part of China<br />

because Sichuan has a humid climate that<br />

encourages people to eat strongly spiced<br />

foods, hence helping to reduce internal<br />

dampness.<br />

However red peppers were not native to<br />

Sichuan. They were introduced to China in<br />

the 17th century from the Americas. How<br />

these peppers reached Sichuan, a landlocked<br />

region in China, is not clear but it is<br />

believed they were introduced from India<br />

when Chinese merchants met Portuguese<br />

and Spanish traders along the historically<br />

renowned Silk Route.<br />

However, this does not mean that the<br />

Sichuan housewife had no way of producing<br />

‘the hot’ before the discovery of the<br />

Americas. Even before the introduction of<br />

the chilli, through the centuries, the people<br />

of Sichuan had developed what is called:<br />

the Sichuan peppercorn, also known as<br />

pepper flower, Chinese pepper and fagara.<br />

Not a pepper at all, it is a reddish-brown<br />

fruit produced by the prickly ash tree and<br />

locally known as huajiao. It gives zest to any<br />

dish in which it is used without overpowering<br />

the natural taste of the food. A little different<br />

then the chilli introduced from the Americas,<br />

this pepper gives certain numbness to the<br />

mouth, which imbues a unique taste.<br />

With the many food condiments used in the<br />

Sichuan kitchen that has been evolving for<br />

at least a thousand years, it is no wonder<br />

this fine cuisine has become so important in<br />

the world of hot culinary dishes. Colour,<br />

flavour, nutrition, shape and smell are carefully<br />

balanced to make the dishes not only<br />

look pleasant and appealing but also nutritious.<br />

Yet, even though hot mouth-burning food is<br />

what comes to mind when Sichuan dishes<br />

are mentioned, at least one-third of the<br />

Sichuan cuisine is barely spiced or not<br />

spiced at all. The balancing of taste, no<br />

doubt, also contributes to the fame of this<br />

important part of the Chinese cuisine.<br />

Sichuan cooks employ numerous cooking<br />

methods – from braising, stir-frying and<br />

boiling to roasting, simmering, steaming<br />

and stewing. However, a complete list would<br />

include more than twenty distinct techniques.<br />

Among the most important spicy dishes,<br />

renowned in the region are: hot pot,<br />

Sichuan style; Kung Pao chicken fried with<br />

peanuts; spicy crab; smoked duck; mapo<br />

tofu; Sichuan pepper beef; and twice<br />

cooked pork - pork is first boiled then stirfried.<br />

Beef is, to some degree, more common<br />

in Sichuan cooking than in the other<br />

sister Chinese cuisines. Stir-fried beef is<br />

often cooked until crisp and tender, while<br />

steamed beef is, at times, coated with rice<br />

flour to produce rich gravy.<br />

If novices wish to experiment in preparing<br />

the hot dishes of Sichuan, they will come to<br />

appreciate the notable characteristics of<br />

Sichuan cooking and its dazzling variety of<br />

flavours.<br />

www.tourismchina.org<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


66<br />

Mexico’s Magical Yucatan State<br />

Article and photography by Steve Gillick<br />

When we arrived at the Sotuta de<br />

Peón, a Hacienda Hotel located<br />

about one hour south of the<br />

Yucatan State capital city of Merida, the porter<br />

immediately went off to a nearby field of sisal<br />

plants and palm trees. There, he bridled the<br />

sole donkey who was quietly enjoying the<br />

shade, and hitched him to a wagon that<br />

would carry us and our luggage to our<br />

assigned bungalows. The wagon’s railroad<br />

wheels followed the tracks that ran through<br />

the property; an homage to the transportation<br />

used in the mid-19th century when sisal represented<br />

the chief economic resource and was<br />

known as ‘the green god of the Yucatan’.<br />

The next day we met Ivan, our guide for a<br />

walking tour of Hacienda history. With an<br />

endearing, animated style, Ivan explained<br />

that the name of the property ‘Sotuta de<br />

Peón’, derived from the Mayan expression ‘So<br />

To Teh HA!’ (and we all jumped back as Ivan<br />

yelled out the word “HA”). “’HA’ means water,<br />

so the expression translates as ‘water that circulates’,<br />

and you must emphasize the ‘HA’<br />

with a strong voice’’. Ivan explained that<br />

‘water’ referred to the eight inter-connected<br />

cenotes on the property. Cenotes are one of<br />

the hallmarks of the Yucatan area and denote<br />

surface pools connected to a subterranean<br />

water source that is usually exposed when a<br />

limestone structure, for example, a cave, collapses.<br />

The Yucatan boasts 3000 of Mexico’s<br />

6000 cenotes and as Ivan explained, “each<br />

one is different”.<br />

The fascinating Hacienda tour covered the<br />

large plantation home of Augusto Peón, the<br />

patriarch of the family, and included an interactive<br />

walk through the rope production<br />

process. The tour ended when a wagon,<br />

drawn by a horse this time, took us to one of<br />

the cenotes for photos, a swim and a visit to<br />

the outdoor bar for a taste of a refreshing,<br />

lemony Margarita made with Mezcal, an<br />

agave-based liquor, somewhat similar to<br />

Tequila.<br />

The Hacienda visit was yet another confirmation<br />

of the unique nature of the Yucatan and<br />

the amazing finds that travelers can discover.<br />

Still, many people tend to confuse Yucatan<br />

State with the Yucatan Peninsula that encompasses<br />

the three States of Yucatan, Quintana<br />

WT Library Photo


Roo (including Cancun, Cozumel, Isla<br />

Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, Xcaret, etc.) and<br />

Compeche (including the walled city of<br />

Compeche and the jungle city of Calakmul,<br />

etc). Chichen Itza, the Mayan complex located<br />

in Yucatan State is often assumed to be the<br />

only attraction of value in the State, so it’s<br />

time to set the record straight!<br />

From Cancan Airport, our van drove twohours<br />

on the well-maintained highway to<br />

Valladolid, one of Mexico’s 122 Magical<br />

Towns. A committee of the Secretariat of<br />

Tourism designates ‘magical experiences’<br />

based on a number of criteria that include<br />

natural beauty, cultural richness, traditions,<br />

crafts, food, festivals, exceptional hospitality,<br />

and more.<br />

We stayed at the Hostería del Marqués, a converted<br />

17th century home filled with beautiful<br />

antiques. Morning coffee by the small outdoor<br />

pool was followed by breakfast in the restaurant<br />

that surrounds a peaceful treed courtyard.<br />

The hotel is only a short walk to the town<br />

WT Library Photo<br />

square with the impressive Church of San<br />

Servacio, dating to 1706, and the Municipal<br />

Palace where murals relate how Valladolid<br />

earned the nickname “The Heroic City”.<br />

One of the main attractions a bit further afield<br />

is the 16th century Convento de San<br />

Bernardino de Siena. Here visitors can pose<br />

with the colorful Valladolid tourist sign amidst<br />

bright red “Flamboyant” trees. A second popular<br />

attraction is the Cenote Zaci, the cenote<br />

of the White Sparrow Hawk, complete with a<br />

small waterfall, stalactites and stairs that take<br />

you to the pool of blue-green water.<br />

Izamal is another designated Magical Town.<br />

It’s unofficially known as the Yellow City based<br />

on the color of many historic buildings in the<br />

downtown core, and when you enter that<br />

area, the common reaction is “Oh my goodness,<br />

I had no idea”. The town is stunning.<br />

The most visited attraction is the Franciscan<br />

Convent of San Antonio de Padua, which was<br />

completed in 1549 and built from, and over,<br />

Ppapp-Hol-Chac, a major Mayan temple.<br />

From the arcades of the convent, you can see<br />

hills where other Mayan temples were located,<br />

as well as Kinich Kakmo, the 35 meter<br />

(115 feet) temple/pyramid dedicated to the<br />

goddess of the sun and fertility. Many visitors<br />

hire a horse (wearing a flowered hat) and<br />

buggy to tour the city, but it is very walkable<br />

with gorgeous colonial houses, shops, restaurants<br />

and those brilliant red Flamboyant trees<br />

everywhere.<br />

After a fairly easy climb to see the panoramic<br />

town views from the top of the pyramid, we<br />

headed to Restaurant Zamna. As the majority<br />

of Izamal’s population of 15,000 have<br />

Mayan-Mixtes roots, this is a great city for<br />

foodies. We sipped our Chaya cocktail, made<br />

with a spinach-like local vegetable as the<br />

savoury dishes arrived: Salbute (puffed deep<br />

fried tortilla with pulled turkey, okra, tomato<br />

and onion), Panucho (a refried tortilla stuffed<br />

with black beans, meat and vegetables) and<br />

Longaniza (smoked pork sausage with ashiote).<br />

So good!<br />

After an overnight stay and tour of Hacienda<br />

Sotuta de Peón, we continued to the city of<br />

Merida. Our hotel, Casa del Balam, was only<br />

a few blocks from Plaza Mayor, which on a<br />

Sunday afternoon, was an eyeful of colour,<br />

with crowds strolling the streets and shops,<br />

visiting the food and souvenir vendors,<br />

67<br />

and gazing at the architectural wonders<br />

that surround the Plaza. This includes<br />

the amazing 1540 façade of Montejo’s<br />

House, the Merida Cathedral (completed in<br />

1598, making it the oldest mainland<br />

Cathedral in the Americas), the Governor’s<br />

Palace (filled with historical paintings and<br />

murals), and the city hall crowned by a<br />

Moorish-inspired blue and gold cupola.<br />

That evening we joined Miguel Andres<br />

Hernandez, the Vice Minister of Tourism for<br />

the State of Yucatan for a celebration of<br />

Mexican flavours at Apoala, one of the top<br />

restaurants in Parque de Santa Lucia. As we<br />

sampled corn empanadas with black mole,<br />

and octopus ceviche with scallops, Hernandez<br />

noted that Yucatan State is one of the safest<br />

places in Mexico, ‘We don’t even have<br />

aggressive merchants here!” He noted that<br />

many Yucatecos (people of the Yucatan) love<br />

to engage visitors with stories about their family<br />

history, something that added to the total<br />

Yucatan travel experience of nature, beaches,<br />

forests, music, cenotes, culture and gastronomy.<br />

He stated that “The quality of the travel<br />

experience is very high in the Yucatan and<br />

besides, we have great weather”.<br />

The next afternoon we came face-to face with<br />

nature on our boat trip through the Celestún<br />

Biosphere Reserve. We encountered a field of<br />

Pink Flamingoes, trees full of nesting<br />

Magnificent Frigate birds and Cormorants,<br />

and a thrilling ride through the mangroves.<br />

The final night of our trip was spent at the<br />

Mayaland Hotel, directly connected by a short<br />

walking path to the Mayan complex of<br />

Chichen Itza. At 5:00 am, with the help of our<br />

guide’s super-bright flashlight, we toured the<br />

ancient Mayan complex and then, with less<br />

than a dozen people present, watched the<br />

sunrise by the Temple of Kukulcan. The experience<br />

was memorable.<br />

Yucatan State is one of those magical places,<br />

complete with Magical Towns, where travellers<br />

can enjoy a fulfilling interaction with the<br />

destination. The take-away is sheer enjoyment<br />

along with that sometimes-illusive travel feeling<br />

of “Wow”.<br />

www.yucatan.travel<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


68<br />

Extraordinary Extremadura<br />

Article and photography by Michael Morcos<br />

So much Spain but never enough<br />

time! So much to see and do from<br />

coast to coast that it takes a lifetime<br />

to really explore the many regions and<br />

local specialties. Having traveled to three<br />

corners of this amazing country, it was time<br />

to find the best things to see and do in south<br />

west region of Spain and travel to extraordinary<br />

Extremadura.<br />

Our trip would be bookended by beautiful<br />

Madrid. This worldly city never ceases to<br />

amaze, even after multiple visits. There are<br />

my favourite haunts and always a new area<br />

or street to discover. From Madrid we would<br />

drive to northern Extremadura on a city and<br />

country trip visiting charming little villages,<br />

tranquil picturesque countryside and historic<br />

towns.<br />

Off and running<br />

Our first stop would be the village of<br />

Robledillo de Gata, population, not sure, it<br />

depends on who’s in town but could be<br />

anywhere from 50 in the winter to a few<br />

hundred on a summer weekend when people<br />

flock here for a vacation. This is why this<br />

small village has three taverns. The one we<br />

visited was old, rustic and perfect for a<br />

warm coffee or cold refreshment. The village<br />

itself can be crossed in minutes, but<br />

takes much longer as it is built upon many<br />

hills. Visitors will be enamored by the<br />

charming old buildings that have stood the<br />

test of time.


oils I would say without hesitation, this is the<br />

best I have ever tasted. It is no wonder As<br />

Pontis has won awards to be the best tasting<br />

olive oil in Spain and fourth best in the<br />

world. I bought four bottles as gifts and with<br />

that I had finished my gift list.<br />

69<br />

Paprika anyone?<br />

Olive Time<br />

November is the time of year Olives ripen<br />

and one of the busiest periods for the producers.<br />

With much luck and perfect timing,<br />

we would visit the As Pontis olive mill. This<br />

company acts as the central place for the<br />

growers to bring their produce and as a sort<br />

of cooperative the As Pontis bottles olives,<br />

oil by-products and Olive oil.<br />

After a day of travel and exploring we<br />

would welcome the chance to see the whole<br />

olive process in front of our eyes. Arriving<br />

even late in the night, farmers would bring<br />

in a days’ worth of collections and within no<br />

time these beauties would be processed<br />

and like magic, some of the best olive oil in<br />

the world. After a crash course on how to<br />

truly taste the difference between different<br />

This is a new one for me. I finally found out<br />

what is in this popular spice. Having used<br />

and tasted it for years, the mystery is solved.<br />

Simply put, it is ground peppers but that is<br />

too easy. We would learn the path of these<br />

red fruits form field to packaged cans.<br />

In this region of La Vera, paprika is king<br />

and not just that, the most popular here is<br />

the smoked paprika. Starting in the fields, it<br />

is handpicked and sent to be smoked in a<br />

specially built smoke house. Some hours<br />

later the dried peppers are bagged and<br />

sent for grinding and packaging. This is<br />

where we saw the final spice at Las<br />

Hermanas factory. It was a joy to meet<br />

Miguel, the senior in the family run operation<br />

and which is now being overseen by his<br />

two daughters and thus the brand name -<br />

Las Hermanas (the sisters). Thought I had<br />

completed my gift shopping, but I got some<br />

more goodies to bring home.<br />

Parador Trifecta<br />

It would be a shame visiting Spain without<br />

spending at least one night in one of these<br />

iconic hotels. The Paradores de Espana is a<br />

government owned and run chain of hotels.<br />

Founded in 1928, they were set up so that<br />

travelers could have a place to stay just<br />

about anywhere along a route through<br />

Spain. Most of the buildings have historic<br />

significance and are usually in castles and<br />

monasteries and all have been kept clean,<br />

renovated and include the most modern<br />

amenities. On our trip we would stay at no<br />

less than three paradores and each one<br />

was a gem including: Parador de<br />

Jarandilla, Parador de Plasencia and the<br />

Parador de Mérida.<br />

A visit to Jarandilla is a lesson in civil architecture,<br />

including remarkable buildings<br />

such as the house of Don Luis de Quijada<br />

and the pillory. There are also some magnificent<br />

medieval bridges of Roman design,<br />

and it is astounding to think how long they<br />

have been around and are in much better<br />

condition than some modern roadways.<br />

Paprika festival<br />

What more can be said about Extremadura,<br />

their love of Paprika and a paprika festival.<br />

Yes, its true there really is a festival for this<br />

spice. The town of Plasencia is the host and<br />

we were the guests to the second annual<br />

event and on the first minute of the first day<br />

we munched down some large wonderfully<br />

juicy paprika sausages right in the middle<br />

of the town square. Needless to say, all<br />

restaurant menus have paprika dishes and<br />

we freely indulged!<br />

Jamón Ibérico rules<br />

I am a true lover of Spanish Ham, but this is<br />

a rude way of calling a historic culinary<br />

work of art. The proper labeling should be<br />

Jamon Iberico. If anything, it sounds more<br />

romantic when describing pig parts.<br />

The essence of it all, cured pig legs are<br />

common to France, Italy and Spain. All<br />

have their curing methods, and all are delicious.<br />

The difference is how the Spanish<br />

arrive at their mouthwatering version. On<br />

this day, it would be another great lesson<br />

that shows the process from farm to table.<br />

This, by the way, takes nine years from the<br />

birth of the piglet to aging and them to<br />

market and shows a much greater application<br />

to this beautiful meat.<br />

see following page<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>


70<br />

We would start our day at the Extrem Puro<br />

Extremadura pig farm in the picturesque<br />

region of Dehesa. There we would see the<br />

specific sort of pigs used for the Jamon.<br />

The pigs are well treated and feed off the<br />

land and in the latter months before going<br />

to slaughter they consume mostly acorns,<br />

which gives a great taste to the meat. From<br />

the farm we head to the processing plant,<br />

there the carcasses are brought back from<br />

an outside sourced slaughterhouse where<br />

they are then salted and air dried for<br />

months until perfection. The last part of our<br />

tour would bring us for a tasting and a<br />

carving class where a highly trained cutter<br />

slices very thin pieces of the amazing tasting<br />

Jamon. Add other cured meats like<br />

sausages paired with marvelous local red<br />

wine and we are unmistakably having a<br />

Spanish experience that can only be had on<br />

the spot and it was good!<br />

Cáceres<br />

At first glance I could see why Caceres was<br />

voted one of the best two medieval towns in<br />

Europe. I could also see why one of the<br />

final episodes of ‘Game of Thrones’ had<br />

been filmed here. This all stone walled<br />

fortress was a gem of our tour. I instantly<br />

fell in love with the many well-kept and historic<br />

buildings. So amazing was the setting<br />

on top of a hill that many concurring<br />

armies made this their own and added to<br />

its look as far back as the romans and followed<br />

by many other civilizations. Now a<br />

UNESCO <strong>World</strong> Heritage City, I could easily<br />

walk for hours enjoying the architecture<br />

and feeling the many years of energy it<br />

holds.<br />

Roman Bridge number two<br />

The roman bridge in Jarandilla was just a<br />

rehearsal for this its bigger, longer and<br />

higher brother. This was such a humongous<br />

construction that I was in disbelief that the<br />

Romans actually had the abilities to create<br />

such an incredible work of engineering. It is<br />

the highest standing Roman bridge anywhere<br />

and an amazing photo op.<br />

The Convent of San Benito de Alcántara<br />

The stunning architectural construction of<br />

this building features three apses with a<br />

large coat of arms. Opposite a three-story<br />

loggia with Renaissance arches, there is an<br />

added semicircular auditorium where the<br />

classical theatre festival of Alcantara is held<br />

here in the summer. The cloister itself is in<br />

a Gothic-style with two floors. It was built<br />

atop what was a Moorish fortress.<br />

Merry Merida<br />

A quiet and charming little city but this was<br />

not always so as it was a major hub for the<br />

Romans. Here we would visit the archeological<br />

Roman site with an amazing and<br />

still functional roman theater. As well visit<br />

one of the best roman museums outside of<br />

Italy, see Roman bridge number three and<br />

finally work for our meal as we would take<br />

a fun cooking class at the Espezia cooking<br />

school preparing local seasonal dishes.<br />

Incredible Influence<br />

All over the country, the Roman influence<br />

can be seen and visited. In Marida, the<br />

one-time capital of Lusitania (Spain and<br />

Portugal), travelers can find some of the<br />

finest Roman ruins in the whole of Spain<br />

and possibly the world. A special one for<br />

me is the Roman theatre where open air<br />

festivals are held, especially in the summer.<br />

The Amphitheatre, the Temple of Diana or<br />

the Roman Bridge are other amazing and<br />

photo-friendly locations. Merida is also<br />

now the administrative capital of the region<br />

of Extremadura and was awarded the title<br />

of <strong>World</strong> Heritage Site by UNESCO.<br />

Our last moments in Merida were spent<br />

eating and drinking at the Espezia kitchen.<br />

All good things come to an end I thought.<br />

How would I describe this region of Spain<br />

in just one word? Would it be just fantastic?<br />

Great? Wonderful? Maybe to all these but<br />

for all we did, saw and experienced I would<br />

best put it as extraordinary Extremadura! It<br />

really is!<br />

www.spain.info<br />

<strong>Canadian</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong>

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