enjoy acomplimentarybottle of wine- Choose from either -Maison l`Aiglon ChardonnayorChemin de Marquiére MerlotTo redeem, simply present this advert when diningCôte Brasserie Lewes82 HIGH STREET, BN7 1XW01273 311 344 | www.cote.co.uk/lewesValid until 31/01/20 at Côte Lewes only. Onecomplimentary bottle of wine when 2 or more guests dine from our À LaCarte menu. Offer can only be used once and cannot be used inconjunction with any other offer or Set Menu.Lewes_VivaLewes_January2020.indd 1 12/12/2019 14:28:50Pick up a Viva Brighton.Cover art by Peter James Field.Find a copy at Lewes House andthroughout Brighton.vivamagazines.com
FOODThe Sussex OxVery locally sourced steakWhat a fine feeling, after a muddy three-anda-halfhour yomp along the South Downs Wayfrom Eastbourne, to descend into the hamlet ofMilton Street, and to see the pub sign notifying usthat we’ve reached our destination: ‘The SussexOx’. We’ve definitely earned lunch, my wife and I.I’ve been before, of course, which means I’vereally been looking forward to returning. The Ox,you see, is owned by a local farmer, and much ofwhat’s on the menu is grown or reared in a nearbyfield, making ‘food yards’ a more appropriateterm than ‘food miles’.They serve a decent range of keg and cask ales,too. Having left my boots in the hallway, I scanthe options and decide that an Unbarred Brewery‘Apricot Sour’ sounds suitably thirst-slaking. Andso it proves to be: it’s refreshingly tart.We are shown to a table by the window overlookingthe garden, and the gently rising hill beyond,a verdant shade of recently rained-upon green.The room has been painted buttermilk yellow:it’s all wooden beams and old photos of the prizebulls. There’s ample choice on the menu, but Isuspect I know what’s going to happen next.“I’ll have the haddock soup and the fillet steak,”says Rowena, opting, when asked, for ‘mediumrare’. “I’ll have the haddock soup and the filletsteak,” I say. “Medium rare.” We have verysimilar tastes: she likes ordering first so as not toseem to be copying me. We also get some breadand oil, and anchovies, to temper our hungerwhile we wait.The menu puts an asterisk after every item that’sgrown in the parish, so the exact nature of whatwe’ve chosen is: ‘smoked haddock leek and potatosoup, poached duck egg*, truffle oil £8’, and ‘Filletsteak*, Parmenter potatoes*, honey roasted rootvegetables, spinach, thyme jus £24’. This beinga family-run business, there’s every chance, Iponder, that the chef knew the name of the cowwe’re about to eat.The food is delicious, from the first dip of thebrown bread into the bowl of oil, to the last forkfulof steak. The latter, of course, is the real star ofthe show, and it’s perfectly cooked, ever so slightlycharred on the outside, and pink inside. EvenRowena, a harsh judge of over-cooked steaks,offers her approval.The Sussex Ox is the sort of place where youdon’t rush yourself. Even so, when we finish thecoffee we’ve ordered to wash down the warmtreacle tart with clotted cream (£6.50) thathas turned this into a four-course meal, we’resurprised to realise that we’ve been there for twohours. If it were summer, of course, we’d makeour way back onto the hills. But it’ll get darksoon, so, happily sated, if £100+ poorer, we get ataxi to Seaford train station instead.Alex Leiththesussexox.co.ukPhotos by Rowena Easton75