Canadian World Traveller Spring 2020 Issue

Bay, where we paddled into a divine grotto
and listened to the sound of the ocean and
forest while rays of sunlight filtered through
the crevices of the limestone walls.
sea lions,” the ranger remarked. “It
smells like one, too, and is only inhabited
by males too young or old to
mate.”
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tation of the temperate rainforest. Our lungs
filled with air so rich with oxygen we could
almost taste it, as we forged our way through
bushes and trees. It was the complete opposite
of the please-stay-on-the-marked-trail
hiking I was used to!
Whatever adventure we decided on, whether
leisurely or active, the wilderness never failed
to astound and inspire us. Sheltered from the
ocean and with an abundance of rain, vegetation
flourished in the Inland Passage’s archipelago.
Life clung to every branch and stone
with moss and lichen of every shade of green.
The calm, deep-blue water stretches out to
mist-shrouded mountain peaks in the distance.
Hidden Falls and Secret Grottos
Because of the ship’s smaller size, we had
access to special sites that ‘floating cities’ AKA
larger cruise ships don’t. Places like Basket
Photo: Uncruise
Hidden Falls, situated on the east side of
Baranof Island, is another locale that’s available
only to smaller vessels. It’s home to a fish
hatchery that releases about 84 million chum
fry each year. Some passengers elected to
participate in an interpretive tour of the facility,
whereas others, like myself, explored the
site by kayak. We first paddled to the waterfalls,
and wondered how it could have been
named ‘hidden’, when it’s a breathtaking
128-feet high. And then we investigated
around the hatchery, where we were amused
by the fish that were continuingly jumping out
of the water, sure that at one point one would
flop itself into the boat. None did, though our
guide said it had happened. We were also
delighted by the seal, whose sweet face kept
popping up, and the eagle perched on a ‘No
Fishing’ sign.
Glacier Bay National Park
We spotted wildlife every day on our cruise,
but our morning in Glacier Bay National Park
was particularly memorable with sightings so
incredible that even the park’s ranger was
blown away.
“A truly remarkable day,” said Mark Ender,
who was on board with us during our time at
the 3.3- million-acre park that is famous for
its glaciers, scenery and wildlife. “I only make
journal entries when something is truly special,
and today was definitely that.”
We were already feeling lucky, when we gathered
around Ranger Matt on deck after
breakfast, armed with binoculars. The sun
was shining in this normally rainy climate,
and the white-peaked mountains shimmered
against the bluebird sky.
“Those are the Fairweathered Mountains,”
Ranger Matt told us. “They got their name
because they can only be seen on days like
today.”
We felt even more fortunate when we started
seeing the incredible wildlife at the park.
“The island we passed is a bachelor pad for
On South Marble Island, there were puffins,
the clown of the bird world, because of their
brightly-colored beaks.
Next, the cutest otter floated by on his back.
But all of this was just the opening for the
shows that were about to start.
“An orca!” someone called, and I turned just
in time to see a tail fluke wave before it dove
into the water. It surfaced again, this time
closer to the boat along with another orca,
and they both showed off their graceful moves
and sleek black and white coloring. These
creatures, also known as killer whales, are the
largest member of the dolphin family, and it’s
a rare sighting.
Brown bears are not so rare, but the territorial
display we witnessed was. Watching
through our binoculars, passengers collectively
gasped, as both bears stood up on their
hind legs vying for one particular spot on the
beach. One retreated but then returned again
for a second and third round before disappearing
in the forest.
And then there was the swimming moose,
who seemed completely oblivious to the clicking
of cameras.
Just ‘wild’ in every sense of the word. The glaciers
themselves almost seemed alive, when
they rumbled and crackled, as they calved
into the turquoise water. Feeling miniscule
before the 350-feet ice sheet, our awe of the
Alaskan landscape, replaced the tension we
had accumulated in the past months of selling
the house.
We remained blissed out until we returned
home…to move.
www.uncruise.com
Canadian World Traveller Spring 2020