Amazing Destinations Magazine Autumn 2021
Amazing Destinations Magazine is a quarterly guide to the best locations the world has to offer, near and far. Covering the UK and a broad range of global destinations it provides inspiration and advice for modern travellers looking for unique, unforgettable and exciting leisure experiences.
Amazing Destinations Magazine is a quarterly guide to the best locations the world has to offer, near and far. Covering the UK and a broad range of global destinations it provides inspiration and advice for modern travellers looking for unique, unforgettable and exciting leisure experiences.
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BUMPER
DOUBLE
ISSUE
AUTUMN 2021 • AMAZINGTRAVELMAG.CO.UK
THE BRIT
LIST
Our favourite UK
country retreats
& hideaways
Plus
London’s finest
The capital’s very best hotels
American beauty
Road tripping across the USA
Journeys to
change your life
Your post-pandemic
bucket list
PRAGUE CITY GUIDE • 48 HOURS IN FLORENCE • HOLA HAVANA • BUDAPEST B&BS • IBIZA REVISITED
ROME IN 72 HOURS • QUIRKY ROMANTIC BREAKS • BARBADOS: PARADISE FOUND & MORE!
AUTUMN 2021
CONTENTS
8. 48 HOURS IN FLORENCE
12. AMERICAN BEAUTY
24. THE BRIT LIST
64. LONDON’S FINEST
128. PRAGUE CITY GUIDE
138. JOURNEYS TO CHANGE YOUR LIFE
148. THE CARIBBEAN
172. HOLA HAVANA
180. VIVA VARADERO
188. IBIZA REVISITED
196. ROME CITY GUIDE
204. BUDAPEST B&Bs
210. GOLDEN AGE OF TRAVEL
BUMPER
DOUBLE
ISSUE
Editor: Martin Mason
Assistant Editor: Holly Cannon
Feature Writers: Jess Hawkins, Dan Cannon
Sub Editor: John W Stammers
Social Editor: Julie Paice
Planning & Media Visits: Sophie Bailey
Photography: Flavio Liotto, Julie Paice, Adobe Stock,
iStockPhoto
Head of Production: Dave Allworthy
Artwork: Lewis Fox
Sales & Commercial Director: Matt Millbank
Amazing Destinations is published by Creative
Path Group Ltd.
First Floor, 101-135 Kings House, Brentwood,
Essex, CM14 4DR
info@amazingtravelmag.co.uk
www.amazingtravelmag.co.uk
ISSN: Amazing Destinations 1461-3261
Amazing Destinations is published by Creative Path Group Ltd. Copyright © First Floor, 101-135 Kings House, Brentwood, Essex, CM14 4DR. Published quarterly All rights reserved. Reproduction
in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices correct at the time of going to press but subject to change. The mail-order protection scheme does not cover items featured
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producing mills are EMAS registered and operate according to highest environmental and health and safety standards. The printed version of this magazine is fully recyclable.
Autumn 2021 3
EDITOR’S
NOTE
We have just come to the end of
the summer travel season - and it
has certainly been a busy one! The
predictions were spot on, even if the
timing was uncertain: Pent-up demand
for staycations post-pandemic would
lead to a surge, and we’re in the middle
of that upward trajectory, which shows
no signs of settling down. As we wait
for international restrictions to ease and
more countries around the globe to reopen
borders and welcome travellers, the
Brit List (page 24) celebrates our postlockdown
travels across the UK over the
past few months. They have been adventures of a gentle sort: a few
tastes of the great outdoors, some new destinations and experiences, all
chosen with those of you in mind who may still be getting your travel
bearings again.
Regular readers will know that during the first lockdown we lost our
beloved Spaniel Jack, a trusty companion on family trips for fifteen
years. Chip, an energetic and boisterous Cocker Spaniel joined the
family late last year and what a lucky pup he’s been. The new pooch
has travelled with us to some spectacular country retreats and incredible
walking breaks that have made having a new pet a real pleasure. I’m
sure this is echoed in homes across the country that have experienced
the mental health benefits that animals can have on our lives.
www.amazingtravelmag.co.uk
/amazingdestinationsmag
London has become home to more historic, luxury hotels per square
mile than any other city in the world and as the city emerges from its
quarantine, they have never been on better form. Across a whirlwind
Summer, our team visited dozens of venues to bring you our pick of the
best the capital has to offer (London’s Finest, page 64). I’m delighted
that this issue also includes its fair share of international destinations
from our overseas assignments, before and during the lockdown, as
restrictions dictated at the time. Europe (Florence, page 8; Rome,
page 196; Prague, page 128) and further afield (The Caribbean, page
148 and the USA, page 12) are featured to give you some long-range
ideas.
Making plans again will be a theme for this magazine during the rest
of the year and into next, as we cover the worldwide return to travel.
We know that this crisis is far from over and that the recovery will be
ragged and uneven. But the world is opening up rapidly, and it’s time
now to go forth and see what awaits us all.
Martin (& Chip)
Editor
To recieve a free copy of Amazing
Destinations, email your name,
address and email to:
subscribe@amazingtravelmag.co.uk
Autumn 2021 5
48 HOURS IN
FLORENCE
The birthplace of the Renaissance and the heart of Tuscany. Florence is a city full of
history, fantastic wine, great food, world-famous fashion, and a relaxed yet exciting energy
all its own. Although small, there is plenty to see and do and, if you’re only passing
through, luckily, you can see the highlights in a compact two days. Here are our options
for routes based on your non-negotiables in Florence, which we’ve organized based on
efficiency, vicinity of attractions, walking and visiting time.
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
Written By Martin Mason
Photography: Julie Paice
Autumn 2021 8 Autumn 2021 9
48HRS
DAY 1
08:00 - Set your alarm to be up bright and early, and head
straight for Florence’s star attraction: Brunelleschi’s dome.
You can’t start the 463-step climb until it opens at half past,
but get in the queue at 8am and you’ll be one of the first in,
meaning you’ll be able to walk right to the top with relative
ease (later in the day you’ll
often have to queue up through the tiny passageways
inside). There is a ticket office on Piazza San Giovanni, but
save time and book yours before you leave home (it’s valid
for six days). Pause on the way up to admire the frescoes on
the inside of the dome, which depict the Last Judgement.
Once at the top, the city unfolds before you, a mass of
terracotta rooftops and monochrome churches.
10:00 - Back at ground level, pop inside the cathedral,
check out the stunning bronze doors of the
Baptistery, then head around the back to the museum,
where you’ll find a fantastic collection of statues, reliefs
and paintings from the medieval, baroque and Renaissance
periods.
12:00 - It’ll take you less than 15 minutes to amble to
the next stop: the Basilica di Santa Croce. This imposing
church dominates the Piazza di Santa Croce (the site of
the annual Calcio Storico) – find a bench and spend a few
minutes resting your legs and admiring its striking marble
façade. Inside, seek out the Bardi and Peruzzi chapels, both
of which are decorated with frescoes by Giotto, who also
painted the scenes inside the dome.
13:00 - Lunchtime! Wander down the Borgo Santa Croce
and onto the Via dei Neri and in five minutes or so you’ll
reach All’Antico Vinaio, famous for producing some of the
best panino in Florence. Five euros will buy you a giant
hunk of bread, stuffed full of delicious fillings – salami,
artichokes, cheeses, prosciutto… whatever you fancy. On
one side of the street is the takeaway outlet (expect queues);
on the other, an eat-in café. One panino is usually enough
to share, but go for a plastic glass of wine too – you’re in
Italy!
48HRS IN FLORENCE
art-filled halls; if you need a pick-me-up afterwards, there
are plenty of cafes lining the nearby Piazza della Signoria
where you can get a cold drink.
19:30 - As sunset approaches, there’s only one place to be:
Piazzale Michelangelo, one of our favourite places to take
photos in Florence. Crowds flock to this viewpoint each
evening to watch the sun sink over the Arno, bathing the
city in a golden light. You can walk up, but it’s a bit of a
hill, so if you’re not up to it you can catch the number 12 or
13 bus. There’s usually a lively atmosphere up here, with
live music and people toasting their trip with a glass of
Prosecco – why not pick up a bottle and some plastic glasses
on your way and join them?
21:00 - For dinner, wander back down the hill to the trendy
Oltrarno neighbourhood, where you’ll find plenty of
eateries and bars for post-dinner drinks.
DAY 2
09:00 - After breakfast, head across the Arno to the Pitti
Palace. This 15th-century palace is home to a collection of
fantastic museums and galleries, including the Silver
Museum (which displays the treasures of the Medici
family) and the colourful Costume Gallery. Explore the
interior, then head outside for a stroll around the adjoining
Boboli Gardens.
12:00 - Stroll up Via de’ Guicciardini to the famous Ponte
Vecchio. The first bridge to be built across the Arno, the
Ponte Vecchio was once lined with butchers’ shops;
nowadays, the little boutiques are high-end jewellers. Have
a nose at their glittering window displays as you cross.
13:00 - Fifteen minutes’ walk north will take you to the
Mercato Centrale, a great spot for lunch. Head up to the
first floor and you’ll find a gourmet food court, with stalls
selling delicious cheeses, pasta, pastries – and, of course,
wine. Just outside is San Lorenzo Market, famous for its
leather goods – ideal for a few souvenirs.
15:00 - Just east of the market is the Galleria dell
Accademia, another brilliant art gallery. If you’ve had your
fill of art, you’ve also got two lovely churches close by you
could pop into: Basilica di San Lorenzo and Basilica di
Santa Maria Novella. The latter sits in a green piazza that’s
a nice place to sit down with a gelato.
18:00 - Colle Bereto is one of our favourite aperitivo spots.
If the weather’s on your side, take a seat on the terrace
and order an Aperol spritz. The prices are steep, but they
include the delicious buffet inside load up your plate with
pasta salads, breads and antipasti and enjoy the atmosphere.
20:00 - Not many people realise, but the Palazzo Vecchio is
open until midnight. Pop in to admire its beautiful frescoes
and artworks without the daytime crowds. Last admission
to the tower is 8.30pm, so if you want to go up then make
sure you do that first.
21:30 - Time for your final dinner in Florence. Try
Ristorante Enoteco Pane e Vino, around 15 minutes’ walk
away across the river. It was Florence’s first wine bar and
boasts a cellar with over 1,000 bottles (closed on Sundays).
How we went: British Airways from London City Airport.
www.britishairways.co.uk
Where we stayed: The Westin Excelsior Florence, Piazza
Ognissanti, 3, 50123 Firenze, Italy.
www.westinflorence.com
14:30 - All fuelled up? Now’s the time to tackle the Uffizi.
Make sure you book your tickets before you go to avoid the
queues – you just need to collect them 15 minutes before
your allotted time. Spend a few hours exploring the
Autumn 2021 10
Autumn 2021 11
AMERICAN
BEAUTY
There’s no better way to see America’s vast, stunning landscape and explore its
rich history than driving into the heart of it. Here we’ve mapped four classic routes:
from NYC up into New York State; the Dakotas; through the magnificent scenery of
the south-west to LA; and a music tour of the Deep South...
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
Written By Martin Mason
Photography: Julie Paice
Autumn 2021 12 Autumn 2021 13
DEEP SOUTH MUSIC TOUR
AMERICAN BEAUTY
Badlands geology and American History
1. Nashville, Tennessee, has great bars
for country and blues. See the Country
Music Hall of Fame and Museum
(countrymusichalloffame.org), and the
Ryman Auditorium (ryman.com) to
learn about the Grand Ole Opry. Nearby
Broadway has bars for real live music
till late.
2. Memphis – blues, gospel, country,
rock’n’roll, barbecue. Stay for Wild
Bill’s Juke Joint, Graceland and Sun
Studios, and on Sunday listen to the
Reverend Al Green lead the choir in Full
Gospel Tabernacle Church on Hale
Road.
3. Following Route 61 south you reach
the Mississippi Delta region. Stop for
dinner at Tunica – which has lots of
casinos – or opt for fried chicken or
creole catfish at the Blue and White
Diner (blueandwhiterestaurant.com) and
a ride on the Tunica Queen riverboat.
4. Clarksdale, Mississippi, for juke
joints, the Delta Blues Museum in the
old train station and a night at the Shack
Up Inn (shackupinn.com, from $75),
with boutique rooms in old sharecropper
shacks, at the Hopson Plantation, which
hosts live blues.
5. Dockery Farms (dockeryfarms.
org), where blues is said to have been
invented by cotton picker Charley Patton
in the early 1900s.
6. Lafayette, Louisiana, is one of
America’s greatest music towns, where
you can hear Cajun, Creole and zydeco
music in the dancehalls, or listen out for
“swamp pop” . The Blue Moon Saloon
and Guesthouse (bluemoonpresents.com,
$18 bunks, doubles from $75) has live
roots music on the back porch – local
bands often record live albums there.
7. Finally, go wild in New Orleans at the
dozens of jazz and blues clubs.
776 miles, 14 hours’ driving, one week
minimum
Autumn 2021 14 Autumn 2021 15
New York State and Niagra
1. First spend a few days in New York
City, exploring Brooklyn, Williamsburg
and the galleries of Manhattan.
AMERICAN BEAUTY
SCENES AND SERENITY
2. Montauk, on the east of Long Island,
has become a favourite hangout of
celebs, with trendy bars, restaurants
and places to stay (in summer, try the
Ruschmeyers, (ruschmeyers.com), which
is a bit like a summer camp for adults).
1,305 miles, 26 hours of driving, 2½-3
weeks minimum
3. Woodstock (woodstockny.org) has
been an artists’ colony since 1902, so
spend a day touring the galleries.
4. The Catskills (visitthecatskills.com)
are great for hiking in summer, or skiing
and snowshoeing in winter – try the
town of Hunter for both.
5. Beautiful in autumn (until mid-
October), the Adirondacks mountains
are full of forests, micro-breweries
and bistros; in summer there’s the
vintage-style 56 Auto Drive-in Theater
(jscinemas.com/56auto).
6. Lake Ontario – there’s a 518-mile
Great Lakes Seaway Trail (seawaytrail.
com) along its southern rim, but
highlights are Niagara Falls in the west
and the Thousand Island Park in the east.
7 & 8. The Finger Lakes region
(fingerlakes.org) near Ithaca has
wonderful vineyards, Amish farms (you
might have to brake for the haywagons),
craft markets and long blue glacier lakes.
9. Return to New York City.
Autumn 2021 16
AMERICAN BEAUTY
NORTH AND SOUTH DAKOTA
978 miles, 20 hours’ driving, two weeks
minimum
Badlands Geology and
American History
1. Fly into and out of Rapid City
(with Delta via Minneapolis from
Heathrow, around £500). Hiring an
RV could be a good idea for this road
trip through remote areas with little
accommodation, see visitrapidcity.com/
planyourtrip/rentalvehicles.
2. South Dakota’s Badlands National
Park is a vast rocky landscape of ridges,
layered rock, fossils, towers and ravines.
Make a stop at Wall Drug (walldrug.
com), a 1930s store and attraction which
sells sheriffs’ badges and cowboy boots.
3. Then at Pierre (don’t miss the State
Capitol Building and Cultural Heritage
Centre), at the south of Lake Oahe, get
on the Native American Scenic Byway,
through Lakota, Dakota and Nakota
nations.
4. The Lower Brule Sioux Tribe
(lowerbrulesiouxtribe.com) welcomes
to the reservation visitors who want to
learn about their culture and offers many
tours.
5. The byway passes through Standing
Rock reservation (standingrock.org) for
monuments, Sitting Bull’s burial ground,
and places to stay. Its traditional annual
powwow is open to visitors.
6. Visit North Dakota’s cowboy town,
Medora, to stay at the historic 1884
Rough Riders Hotel (medora.com/roughriders,
from $135) and try the Pitchfork
Steak Fondue for steak threaded onto a
pitchfork and grilled.
7. North Dakota’s badlands have
hilly terrain, red rocks and petrified
woods. Hire a log cabin and explore on
horseback with Badlands Trail Rides
(badlandstrailrides.com).
8. In Black Hills National Forest,
Custer state park (custerstatepark.info)
covers 71,000 acres of prairie, pine,
granite, bison and bighorn sheep. Jewel
Cave and Wind Cave are worth a stop.
9 & 10. After visiting Mount
Rushmore, see the Native American
equivalent, the Crazy Horse Memorial
(crazyhorsememorial.org), which will be
the largest mountain carving in the world
when finished, and the Indian Museum
of North America.
11. Return to Rapid City.
Autumn 2021 20 Autumn 2021 21
AMERICAN BEAUTY
Weird and Wonderful
1. Fly into Albuquerque, good for
buying jewellery and art, and full
of gorgeous B&Bs with palm trees,
sun terraces overlooking the desert
and Native American folk art and
blankets. See bedandbreakfast.com/
new-mexico for a list. Desert Harbour is
off-grid, simply stylish, with outdoor fire
pits and massages, for $145 a night.
2. State capital Santa Fe is a quirky
former mining town with bizarre
museums and diners.
3. Hot springs are a big deal in New
Mexico. Many have spa resorts built
around them, but for a list of natural
ones, such as those in the Jemez
mountains, see newmexico.org/things-todo/health-wellness.
4. Farmington is a good base for visiting
Native American tribes (Navajo, Jicarilla
Apache, Southern Ute, Ute Mountain
Ute and Hopi, see farmingtonnm.org);
the Aztec Ruins national monument has
structures built by the Aztecs 900 years
ago. Nearby, Kokopelli’s Cave B&B
(bbonline.com/united-states/newmexico/farmington/kokopelli,
from
$260) is carved out of the sandstone cliff
NEW MEXICO TO LA
and has one bedroom – plus a hot tub.
5. Grand Staircase-Escalante national
monument (utah.com/nationalsites/
grand_staircase) just over the border
in Utah is 1.7m acres of multicoloured
rocks and canyons.
6. Dare to hike Zion national park’s (nps.
gov/zion) terrifying Angels Landing, and
you’ll need a margarita in the cool sunny
town of Springdale nearby.
7. Bryce Canyon’s (nps.gov/brca/index)
incredible “hoodoo” rock formations are
bewitching.
8 & 9. Before visiting the Grand
Canyon stay in a cabin among
ponderosa pines near Flagstaff, Arizona
(see flagstaffarizona.org/staying_
bed-breakfast for a list), and visit
the Wupatki National Monument – an
important tribal crossroads for thousands
of years – the Museum of Northern
Arizona for Native American artefacts,
and the Lowell Observatory.
10. Kingman (gokingman.com) is known
as the “heart of historic route 66”,
with a museum dedicated to the route.
You could detour into Mojave national
preservefrom here.
11. Joshua Tree national park to stretch
your legs, and a stop in Twentynine
Palms, a cool quirky town. The 29 Palms
Inn (29palmsinn.com, from $95) has a
pool and 1930s cabins.
12. Palm Springs is the sleepy kitsch
nostalgic desert city of your dreams,
with amazing places to stay such as
the new Saguaro (jdvhotels.com, from
$170) and a great midcentury modern
architecture tour by Robert Imber
(palmspringsmoderntours.com). On
20-21 and 27-28 October the Highway
62 Art Tours (hwy62arttours.com) opens
studios of 100 local artists.
13. Los Angeles – eat, shop and star-spot
for as long as you have left.
1,583 miles, 30 hours’ driving, 2½ weeks
minimum
The Grand Canyon: The only one of the Seven Natural
Wonders of the World to be located in North America
Autumn 2021 22
Autumn 2021 23
THE
BRIT LIST
Britain has hundreds of characterful country retreats and staycation hideaways,
and today there’s a bewildering amount to choose from. Here we present the cream
of the crop for your glorious post-summer short break.
INVERLOCHY CASTLE
FRITTON LAKE
...page 26
...page 30
GARA ROCK
RAGDALE HALL
...page 34
...page 36
THE PRIORY
BEAUMONT ESTATE
THE PIG AT BRIDGE PLACE
BARNETT HILL HOTEL
RICHMOND HILL HOTEL
PENNYHILL PARK
...page 40
...page 42
...page 46
...page 48
...page 50
...page 52
Written By Martin Mason and Holly Cannon
Compiled by: John W Stammers
Planning: Sophie Bailey
Photography: Julie Paice
Autumn 2021 24 Autumn 2021 25
HEAD
FOR THE
HIGHLANDS
THE BRIT LIST
INVERLOCHY CASTLE
FORT WILLIAM, SCOTLAND
In 1873 curiosity led Queen Victoria to forgo her usual holiday home at Balmoral, Scotland and instead
spend a week at Inverlochy Castle near Fort William. “I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot” she
noted in her diary and this is as true today as it was then.
The five-Star Inverlochy Castle Hotel is truly a very special place;
an imposing loch side baronial castle near Fort William and in the
foothills of the highest peak in the UK, Ben Nevis.
The Journey
Keen to embrace a sense of adventure, we took the Caledonian
Sleeper train from London Euston to Fort William. A sleeper train
to Scotland has been running from London since the 1850s, although
the service has been updated a few times since then – with
a major update coming into service in 2019/2020. It’s been running
in its current name, the Caledonian Sleeper, since 1996, and in
2016, Lonely Planet named the journey from London Euston to
Fort William the best sleeper train journey in the world. Our trains
are far more luxurious, with upgraded sleeper seats as well as
en-suite sleeper rooms and even a double en-suite room option for
couples. There are also fully accessible rooms, as well as Wi-Fi
throughout. Our Club Room offered a more hotel-like experience
and gave us access to the station lounges at departure and arrival
stations, as well as a hot continental breakfast, which you can
enjoy either in your room or in the Club Car.
The Hotel
Tucked between dense forestry and a serene loch, Inverlochy
Castle Hotel offers both privacy and beauty. For added convenience,
Inverlochy Castle Hotel also offers helicopter, chauffeur,
and vehicle rental services and transfers. The stone castle looks
and feels like a fairy-tale setting. Plus, the lavish and ornate decor
inside exudes elegance and class. This 19th-century castle boasts
the refinement and history you expect and the comfort and convenience
you deserve.
Teeming with incredible history and breath-taking
scenery, Scotland is the perfect destination for your next
getaway. With its beautiful lochs and luscious forests,
there are few locations in the world quite so relaxing.
Within this picture of tranquillity lies Inverlochy Castle
Hotel, one of Scotland’s most luxurious and elegant
hotels. Martin Mason packed his chunky sweater and
headed up to the highlands to discover a true gem.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.inverlochycastlehotel.com
Autumn 2021 26
The castle grounds and the entire estate, all 42,000 acres of it
are wonderful to explore. You can take a pleasant stroll through
the gardens or head off on more strenuous hikes around forests,
rivers, mountains and lochs, and all without leaving the estate.
Service throughout the hotel is old school and seamless, if you
cannot think what you want, a gentle suggestion will be provided.
Maybe tea in the drawing-room indoors or outdoors, try
falconry or skeet shooting.
Autumn 2021 27
Rooms
The 17 well-appointed rooms and Gate Lodge, each with a unique
design to ensure that your stay is personalised, blend the old
and new seamlessly with gorgeously plump beds, breath-taking
views, reassuringly heavy drapery, and invitingly chic and modern
bathrooms. Our suite was impeccable with the best of everything
including Penhaligon toiletries and embroidered bed linen.
THE BRIT LIST
Food
Our dinner began with a wee dram (a shot of scotch whisky) by
the fire in the Great Hall, an event in itself then off to the main
event. No stay at Inverlochy Castle Hotel is complete without
dining at the award-winning Michel Roux Jr at Inverlochy Castle
restaurant. All three unique dining rooms are decorated with
elaborate furniture donated to the Castle by the King of Norway,
creating an elegant dining experience that cannot be missed. The
food here is seriously ambitious and elaborate inspired by both
British and French cuisine, but with a distinctly Highland accent.
Excellent wine matches and expert service completed a wonderful
experience. Another highlight was the sumptuous breakfast we had
delivered to our room, a plentiful full Scottish breakfast and – that
view. What a way to start the morning.•
“
Our verdict
”
With its incredible scenery, luxurious rooms, and world-renowned
dining experience, a stay at Inverlochy Castle Hotel
is an experience that should not be missed. Queen Victoria
was right there’s simply nowhere better for you to explore
the Scottish Highlands, and the most breath-taking scenery
in Britain.
How to book
Caledonian Sleeper: sleeper.scot
Inverlochy castle: inverlochycastlehotel.com
A big thanks to everyone who made
this trip possible:
Visit Scotland, Vicky Mcquillan and Kerry Watson at ICMI
and Julie Brander at Weber Shandwick.
Autumn 2021 28
THE BRIT LIST
FRITTON LAKE
GREAT YARMOUTH, NORLFOLK
Surrounded by 1,000 acres of unspoilt woodland and lush meadows, Fritton Lake is an incredible nature
retreat that sits on the Norfolk/Suffolk border and is directly contributing to one of Britain’s pioneering
rewilding projects.
The holiday club is part of the Somerleyton Country Estate and
situated 25 minutes from Lowestoft and 45 minutes from Norwich
by car. If you’re looking for a nearby train station, Haddiscoe is a
10-minute drive away. Once you’ve found your way to this picturesque
lake, you won’t be short of things to do.
Aside from the beautiful two-mile-long natural lake that sits at the
club’s heart, there are a wide array of leisure activities on offer.
You can relax in the 22-metre heated swimming pool or their new
floating sauna. For the kids, you’ll find invigorating and thrilling
adventure play areas - the young ones have a smaller heated pool
and bouncy pillow to conquer, whilst the big kids have trees to
whizz through on zip wire. Then there’s the broad range of sporting
activities to participate in, from canoeing, rowing and paddleboarding
to tennis, volleyball and instructor-led yoga. With so
much to do, you won’t be straying far from this idyllic spot.
Rooms
You can choose to stay in the private woodland cabins that blend
with the woodlands that surround them, each equipped with kingsize
beds, private bathrooms, wood-burning stoves and wood-fired
hot tubs. Our room was the Herringfleet Boathouse based in the
luxury Clubhouse, a converted 16th-century manor house. Rooms
here retain their heritage from the authentic wooden floorboards
and fireplaces to the exposed beams and brickwork, whilst featuring
modern comforts like spacious bathrooms and comfortably
large beds. Alternatively, if you’re staying as a family, you might
prefer the traditional farm cottages that are circled by the stunning
meadows and woodland.
Food
With small producers, fishermen and farmers on Fritton Lake’s
doorstep, all their food is locally sourced to cut down delivery
miles and support small businesses to adhere to their values of sustainability.
Meals are served at the Clubhouse, a relaxed environment
with warm and friendly service. If like us, you’re visiting on
a warm summer day, you can enjoy al fresco dining on the terrace
or in the garden with the dragonflies dancing between the tables. It
is an absolute delight. Breakfast includes a limited range of bowls
and toasts, whilst the lunch and dinner menus offer more variety
with pizzas, sandwiches, salads and club specials.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.frittonlake.co.uk
Autumn 2021 30
“Our verdict
For any water lovers and fans of outdoorsy fun, this is an idyllic
nature retreat with picturesque woodlands and meadows to
explore. The combination of lovely food, gorgeous views and
blissful pools makes for an enjoyable staycation.
Autumn 2021 31
THE BRIT LIST
GARA ROCK HOTEL
SALCOME, DEVON
Surrounded by countryside, sea views and sheep, this hotel perched atop a cliff is a great escape from
the everyday. Gara Rock is a blissfully secluded spot in South Devon with a wealth of leisure and
relaxation options. To discover Gara Rock you will need to navigate a network of little lanes through
rural Devon, but good things come to those who wait. We promise.
Whether you want to re-energise in the Wild Rock Spa, relax in
the bubbling Jacuzzi and soak up the splendid views, swim in the
outdoor pool that overlooks the sea, or unwind with a whole host
of movies in the Cinema Room, the hotel offers plenty to do all
under one roof.
There’s plenty of options if you want to venture out, too. Sample
wine and cheese at the Sharpham Vineyard, take a stroll through
the Dartmoor National Park or visit the Paignton Zoo. If you love
walks, there are several local routes you can take. If you want to
get active there’s paddleboarding and golf nearby. And if you’re
looking for family fun days there’s the Woodlands Adventure Park,
Miniature Pony Centre and Prehistoric Caves your children will
adore.
Rooms
There’s a huge range of rooms on offer at Gara Rock, from the
romantic Secret Suite where you’ll have a few sheep for company,
the homely Signal House - perfect for large groups - where
you can stargaze from the hot tub, or there’s the Penthouse with
an extraordinary open plan living space and jaw-dropping sea
views. Our one-bedroom suite didn’t disappoint with its rustic and
cosy aesthetic, velvet cushions, plush throws, tiled bathroom and
fabulous power shower. Never letting you forget the awe-inspiring
views, most suites come with a generously sized balcony, terrace
or garden.
Food
The Restaurant, open all year round and popular, is worth booking
in advance. Seasonal dishes feature ingredients sourced from
local producers and the chef’s very own kitchen garden; whether
from the land or sea, you can be sure whatever you order will be
fresh. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and cocktails are all on offer here. If
you’d prefer a light bite or just relax with a drink, the Lounge Bar
is a comfy place to enjoy a cuppa or sip from their vast range of
spirits, beers, homemade cordials, and more - the Gara Rock Gin is
a popular choice! Or if you’re on a walk or prefer to sit in the sun
with a snack and drink, the ‘Garavan’ has got you covered.•
110
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.gararock.com
Autumn 2021 34
“Our verdict
Isolation has got a bad rep over the past 18 months, but the
gorgeous views and vast number of opportunities to unwind
will have you falling in love with this secluded spot. You’ll be
so glad you got away from the world for a while.
Autumn 2021 35
THE BRIT LIST
RAGDALE HALL SPA,
LEICESTERSHIRE
This secluded 13-acre rural Victorian country house estate has exceeded guest expectations for
over 40 years, providing serene lounges and rejuvenating spa treatments with six different
pools all under one roof.
Situated off the A46, it’s just a 25-minute drive away from Leicester
and only 20 minutes to Loughborough. You’ll find the nearest
train station in Melton Mowbray, 15 minutes from the spa by car.
Whilst there are worthwhile attractions within a half-hour’s drive
of Ragdale Hall, such as the National Space Centre, you’ll most
likely be too busy maximising the resort’s
relaxation facilities.
Boasting six different pools, the Thermal Spa features 12 luxurious
and unique heat and water experiences that you won’t get enough
of. Especially the Rooftop Infinity Pool, which combines awe-inspiring
countryside views with water heated to 35°C and massaging
jets, is so unique you won’t soon forget it. With so much on
offer, it really is like a playground for adults. Our overnight reviver
package included a 50-minute Blissful Face & Back Therapy and
we also indulged in extra facial and pedicure treatments treatments,
all of which were first class. These Spa experiences have
the power to be extremely healing, however, as always, health
and safety is the first priority and increased hygiene protocols
at Ragdale Hall in the wake of Covid-19 have been impeccably
implemented.
Rooms
Ragdale Hall has a broad range of rooms available, all stylishly
decorated and several featuring beautiful floral patterns for the furniture.
Our bedroom was large with a spacious bathroom. There’s
plenty of room to relax, but you’ll spend most of your
time chilling on a recliner in the spa. However you prefer to
get your respite, Ragdale Hall has plenty of relaxation rooms to
choose from.
Food
The chefs - where possible - source all their ingredients from local
businesses, bringing you first-class food whilst helping the environment.
The Dining Room offered a range of options for breakfast,
lunch and dinner. The menu combined salads and vegetarian
dishes alongside meat and fish varieties, catering to every palette.
We couldn’t fault the speedy service or the quality of food. You’ll
find refreshing smoothies and herbal teas as well as a delicious
range of light snacks and cakes in both the Verandah Bar and
Garden Room. You also must try the expertly-crafted cocktails or
mocktails in their brand new Twilight Bar, so good we stayed for
more than a couple.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.ragdalehall.co.uk or call 01664 433000
“Our verdict
Ragdale Hall is the perfect getaway if you’re looking for
serene solitude and relaxing pools heated to blissfulness. The
stunning countryside views complement the spa treatments
and meal varieties. Whether with friends or with family, the
spacious estate offers a wealth of relaxation options.
Autumn 2021 36 Autumn 2021 37
THE BRIT LIST
THE PRIORY
WAREHAM, DORSET
The old-world glamour and charm of this former 16th-century priory with gardens sloping down to the
River Frome are an absolute delight. Martin Mason visited this quintessentially English country gem
in the historic market town of Wareham.
Enjoying an idyllic location on the banks of the River Frome in
Wareham, The Priory Hotel is set in a beautiful heritage building,
with a history stretching back to the 16th century. Lovingly and
painstakingly restored, it offers luxurious boutique accommodation,
fine food and tailored services in a wonderful riverside
setting.
Across four acres of immaculately maintained gardens, this
independently owned country house hotel is ideally placed for
exploring Dorset. Wareham itself is steeped in history with Corfe
Castle a mere 10 minutes drive away. There are plenty of cream
teas cafés and historic pubs within easy distance. Lulworth Cove,
Durdle Door and the beaches at Studland are also nearby and
worth visiting.
Rooms
The rooms vary in style but all deliver on luxurious quality.
We stayed in a boathouse suite at the river’s edge which offered
seclusion and privacy from the main property. The suite had
French doors which opened onto a fabulous river view terrace with
wood-beamed character features and wrought iron table and chairs.
A wonderful location to sip a drink, soak up the sun and watch
the boats chug past. All rooms and suites feature luxury towelling
bathrobes; complimentary Wi-Fi; a flat-screen TV and complimentary
toiletries.
Food
The Priory has a fine dining restaurant, where guests can enjoy
classical French and English cuisine. Head chef Stephan Guinebault’s
menu maintains the high standards with locally sourced,
season and delicious produce. Covid protocols were expertly
managed with a head waiter greeting and escort into the Garden
Restaurant. Lunch can also be enjoyed in the Garden Room or
‘alfresco’ on the terrace in the warmer months. Special mention
goes to the full English breakfast which was one of the best we
have experienced recently and will set you up for a day exploring
the Dorset countryside.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.theprioryhotel.co.uk
Autumn 2021 40
“Our verdict
With its manicured lawns and riverside setting, The Priory
Wareham offers a wonderful Dorset escape. Sip champagne
on a sun-soaked terrace and discover the perfect English
weekend away with a little taste of France.
Autumn 2021 41
WONDERFUL
WINDSOR
Nestled in Old Windsor, the historic and unique De Vere Beaumont
Estate is set in 40 acres of stunning parkland. Martin Mason
discovered a hotel that Is an elaborate mix of old and new.
THE BRIT LIST
DE VERE BEAUMONT ESTATE
WINDSOR, BERKSHIRE
Set on a 40-acre estate the hotel is just a few miles from Windsor Castle and a 14-minute walk from
the historic site of Runnymede – the birthplace of English law. The Estate itself dates back to the
14th century, and includes lovely grounds and a 14th-century chapel.
Located close to the M25, M4 and M3, with Heathrow airport
just 15 minutes away by car. The nearest train station is Egham
which is a 5 minute drive away and its close to local attractions
including Legoland, Windsor Castle, Royal Ascot and
Thorpe Park.
This outstanding estate has undergone a huge refurbishment,
which has retained the historic features of the place, whilst bringing
in a contemporary style, meaning it has the charm, facilities
and technology for whatever you need. And with acres of outside
space for walking and beautiful grounds for relaxing, the De Vere
Beaumont Estate is simply a stunning venue.
Rooms
The Estate has a wide range of 420 rooms available, all stylishly
decorated with good amenities. We stayed in a Luxury Suite
in the White House which had open plan luxurious spaces, a
huge bedroom and expansive lounge area in which to relax. The
traditional decor reflects the heritage of the building, and it was
complete with roll-top bath, walk-in shower, fridge, luxury toiletries
& free Wi-Fi.
Food
Named after the year the hotel’s mansion house was re-designed
by influential architect Jason Gibbs, 1705 Restaurant and Bar
boast a menu of dishes inspired by great British class and relaxed
Italian classics - and we couldn’t wait to tuck in. Fresh and airy,
the lofty space mixes sumptuous sofas with contemporary brass
and leather accents, with the traditional feature ceiling taking
centre stage. It also offers guests a stylish space serving cocktails
created by on-site mixologists, rich jewel toned furniture, warm
lighting and a glossy bar top. l
“ ”
Our verdict
Situated in picturesque Old Windsor is the historic De Vere
Beaumont Estate. This magnificent venue incorporates a
stunning Ballroom, fabulous Restaurants, wonderful architecture
and modern refurbished bedrooms –
all set in spectacular and extensive grounds.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.devere.co.uk/beaumont-estate
Book
www.devere.co.uk
The Marketplace offers
a variety of food options
Autumn 2021 42 Autumn 2021 43
THE BRIT LIST
THE PIG AT BRIDGE PLACE,
CANTERBURY
Playing host to Led Zeppelin in the ‘70s, THE PIG at Bridge Place is the rural hideaway with a rock-nroll
past, a rich history of renowned parties and gigs and is situated close to arty towns like Whitsable,
Margate, Deal and Sandwich.
Only three miles away from beautiful Canterbury - 15 minutes by
car - the historical city centre is within easy reach. Bekesbourne
Station is just two miles away from THE PIG and an estimated
56-minute journey by train from central London. Whilst the closest
airport is Gatwick, which takes around 70 minutes to get to by car.
Bridge itself is a historic Kentish village full of character, perfect
for scenic strolls. Whether pottering around the kitchen gardens or
exploring Kent’s hot spots, there’s plenty to do within the ‘Wine
Garden of England’ with The Pig as your perfect country base.
Rooms
With 29 available rooms, you’re spoilt for choice. The luxurious
main house has seven bedrooms, each with a rustic theme that
feel cosy whilst also spacious. The Coach House has 12 rooms
with similar vibes as well as two family-friendly lodges if you’re
bringing the kids. We stayed in Hideaway Suite two which had a
sitting room, large master bedroom, super-king four-poster bed
and a mezzanine bathroom. The walk-in monsoon shower and
free-standing bath were highlights.
Food
Like all Pig Hotels, the emphasis is on the food. The PIG’s commitment
to the ‘25-mile menu’ means that all their food is sourced
from local suppliers, which supports Kentish farms, orchards, vineyards,
etc. It also means you’re guaranteed the freshest fish, locally
brewed beers, homegrown fruits and vegetables, and England’s
most prestigious wines. The open-plan restaurant was just as rustic
and characterful as the rooms and offered a good range of meats,
fish and plant-based dishes. Everything we tried was delicious. But
you must also try the outdoor Garden Oven for wood-fired cooking
and tasty tipples.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.thepighotel.com/at-bridge-place
Autumn 2021 46
“Our verdict
An overall great experience that combines freshly
sourced cooking with beautiful rustic rooms and close
proximity to Kent’s most idyllic hot spots. It’s the perfect
retreat for scenic walks and anyone keen to explore
Kent’s rich history.
Autumn 2021 47
FIRST CLASS
COUNTRY
ESCAPE
THE BRIT LIST
BARNETT HILL, PART OF THE ALEXANDER
HOTELS COLLECTION, THE SURREY HILLS
As holidays abroad remain off the agenda - a staycation has never looked so good. This wonderful
country house hotel in the gorgeous Surrey Hills is the perfect getaway for a short break or
memorable family occasion.
We visited Barnett Hill to celebrate our daughter’s graduation
from the nearby University of Surrey, having seen her ceremony
cancelled, another casualty of the covid-19 pandemic restrictions.
The hotel, which blends history and modernity dates back
to 1905, the dream of Frank Cook, Grandson of renowned travel
agent Thomas Cook. Set just a five-minute drive from Guildford
in the heart of the Surrey Hills the National Trust area of Box
Hill, the destination offers plenty of walking and cycling routes
through lush forest and countryside, plus wonderful views.
Barnett Hill Hotel is an
elegant Queen Anne-style
mansion, nestled in the heart
of the Surrey Hills. Set in 26
acres of lovingly maintained
gardens and woodland, the
hotel offers breathtaking
views. Martin Mason
discovered the perfect place
to celebrate a very special
family event.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.alexanderhotels.co.uk/barnett-hill
Rooms
Barnett Hill has reassuringly enhanced its cleaning and safety
measures with masks and hand sanitiser provided to guests on
check-in. Rooms are disinfected between each stay, clear social
distancing measures are in place, and cashless payment is in operation.
There’s a wide selection of rooms available and each is
individually and stylishly decorated. Our spacious and luxurious
suites were located at the top of an imposing staircase and had
stunning views over the beautiful gardens. They were equipped
with every mod con including huge beds with Egyptian cotton
sheets, tasteful yet unique furnishings, a large sofa, huge bath
and a rainfall shower to die for.
Food
Combining influence from classic dishes with innovative cooking
techniques and the freshest seasonal ingredients, The Oak
Room Restaurant offers award-winning dining with service to
match. Admire the beautiful oak panelling that adorns the walls,
the feature ceiling, and jaw-dropping views across the gardens.
Lunch, light bites and afternoon tea are also served but be sure to
make time for an alfresco drink in the 1905 bar, named after the
year the property was built. It has a great selection of wines and
spirits including the lavish new ‘Silent Pool’ Gin experience. •
“ ”
Our verdict
Barnett Hill is the perfect country retreat to recharge your
batteries. The location, architecture and stunning gardens
make it a perfect choice for celebrating and photographing
a special occasion. Covid protocols were subtle, yet effective
and staff were informed and always ready to help.
Book
The Marketplace offers
www.alexanderhotels.co.uk/Barnettt-hill a variety of food options
Autumn 2021 48 Autumn 2021 49
THE BRIT LIST
RICHMOND HILL HOTEL,
RICHMOND
Situated in a prime position overlooking the River Thames this Georgian hotel dates from 1726.
With the bustling shopping streets and cosy pub corners of Richmond on its doorstep, and
central London just a tube ride away.
The recently renovated Richmond Hill Hotel offers up the perfect
staycation for anyone looking to escape the city. There’s plenty to
do in Richmond itself: explore 2,500 acres of parkland with roaming
deer in London’s largest Royal Park, take a boat tour to Kew
Gardens or Hampton Court, hire a rowing boat or bicycle, and
enjoy shops, markets and walks galore. Nearby attractions include
Twickenham rugby ground and museum, Ham House and London
Wetland Centre.
Rooms
The hotel has two types of rooms, Georgian collection and Hill
collection. The Georgian collection has antique interiors and
reflects the history & heritage of the hotel, whereas the Hill collection
has a more modern approach to it with bright colours. Our
spacious and classy suite featured ultra-comfy super-king-sized
beds from Heal’s of London, goose down duvets, Nespresso machine,
and marble-tiled bathroom with heavenly walk-in
rain shower.
Food
Dinner at the award-winning AA Rosette, 144 On The Hill was the
highlight of our stay. The long wraparound bar spans the room and
is rather spectacular – worth going for just a drink. A lively atmosphere
was complemented by a wonderfully chilled Chapel Down
brut and the Wine list was surprisingly varied and reasonably
priced. From a well-balanced menu we chode the classic pairing
of scallops and steak which was delicious. Make sure you’re up
in time to have breakfast the next day, another high point. There’s
a good range of hot and cold options but our pancakes took some
beating.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.richmondhill-hotel.co.uk
Autumn 2021 50
“Our verdict
If you want a break from the usual rush-hour routine of city
life, then this 18th -century townhouse is a wonderful staycation
choice. A stay at the Richmond Hill hotel will leave you
feeling relaxed and rejuvenated after a weekend full of food,
walks and country air.
Autumn 2021 51
THE BRIT LIST
PENNYHILL PARK,
SURREY
Set on 123 acres of beautiful grounds, Pennyhill Park is a five-star hotel with a multi awardwinning
45,000 sq. ft. spa. It’s the ultimate spa staycation, perfect if you’re searching for a
tranquil spot to rejuvenate and recharge.
You’ll find the place between Ascot, Sunningdale and Wentworth
on the A30 London Road, 45 minutes from central London. The
nearest station is Bagshot if you’re coming by train, which is an
estimated 25 minutes by foot. Its location is a convenient spot if
you’re planning a trip to nearby attractions, such as the Savill Gardens,
Thorpe Park, Windsor Castle and Windsor Great Park.
Although, we suspect you’ll spend most of your time relaxing in
Pennyhill Park’s divine spa. Considered a destination in its own
right, there are over 20 thermal and relaxation spaces to enjoy, superb
treatments, state-of-the-art gym equipment and fitness classes
on offer. When you see the idyllic interior and exterior spaces,
you’ll understand why Pennyhill Park is often booked for special
events and stunning weddings.
Rooms
With 124 rooms available, you’re spoilt for choice. Each one is
individually designed with different styles, so no two visits will be
alike. Whatever your choice, you can bank on luxurious furnishings,
beautifully patterned décor, and gorgeous bathrooms that
come with under-floor heating and rain shower. Some of the higher
end rooms and suites come with extras, like double baths or even
an eight-man Jacuzzi.
Food
The Hillfield restaurant and bar is open all day for breakfast, lunch
and dinner and offers a relaxed, fun feel to its menu that celebrates
the best of Surrey’s finest seasonal dishes. It’s perfect for couples,
friends, co-workers or families looking for a laidback meal. We
recommend booking in advance to guarantee a table. Also, Head
Chef, Lewis Russell, is overseeing a ‘Farm to Fork - Nose to
Tail’ kitchen philosophy, which is a commitment to working with
farmers who preserve and enhance the local landscape with high
welfare and sustainable ethics in mind. When it comes to drinks,
you can expect their signature Surrey Spritzers, Hillfield housemade
cordials, local beers and a wine list that includes the finest of
English and European producers.
Alternatively, head to the Lily Pond Terrace for outdoor drinks and
dining with splendid views. On the menu are woodfired flatbreads,
barbecue specials and ice creams. Not to mention a good range of
drinks to enjoy in the sun.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.exclusive.co.uk/pennyhill-park
Autumn 2021 52
“Our verdict
The ultimate spa retreat that boasts stunning indoor and
outdoor spaces, characterful rooms and the finest Surrey
dishes you can find. Pennyhill Park truly is a five-star experience.
Autumn 2021 53
Castell Coch: The unique nature of the
castle has seen it feature in many TV
shows including Doctor Who.
THE BRIT LIST
FIVEQUIRKY
ROMANTIC BREAKS IN THE UK
Want to whisk your loved one off on an autumn romantic break but not sure where to go? With so much
choice, it can be really difficult to select somewhere that’s both special and quirky.
1.CASTLE COCH WEST
USK LIGHTHOUSE
It’s no surprise that Castell Coch was said to be the model
for Disney‘s Sleeping Beauty Castle. With its pointy turrets
and elegant towers it wouldn’t look out of place with the
Chateaux of the Loire. In 1871 the 3rd Marquess of Bute had
the ruins of a much older castle removed and this fantasy
built, complete with gloriously ornate interior murals and
elaborate bespoke furnishings.
Set high above the village of Tongwynlais, to the north of
Cardiff in south Wales, it is an easy drive to the charming
West Usk Lighthouse for a very quirky stay. Book the lovely
waterbed room overlooking the River Severn and make sure
you have a long relaxing soak in the hot tub in the roof.
2.KIELDER WATER & POSH HUTS
NORTHUMBERLAND
With its pine-clad banks, vast expanse of water and many
shore-line paths, Kielder Water and Forest Park is ideal
for a get-away-from-it-all weekend. And in the heart of
Northumberland countryside, it was recently awarded
Gold Tier Dark Sky Park status by the International Dark
Skies Association (IDA) – the first in Britain.
Autumn 2021 54
You can visit the Kielder Observatory and view the heavens
through their powerful telescope – or gaze up at the myriad
of stars as you sip a glass of champagne outside your Posh
Hut in the village of Falstone. These luxurious designer
Shepherd’s Huts have all the comforts you could wish
for with a wood-burning stove for chilly days. And for a
special treat, you can even have a gourmet meal delivered
to your very door.
Autumn 2021 55
THE BRIT LIST
3.QUARRY BANK MILL &
WIZARD THATCH
If you want a bit of history and a gorgeous garden to
wander through, Quarry Bank Mill in Cheshire has more
than enough to keep you busy all day. Built in the late
18th century, this cotton mill has a huge water wheel and
fascinating collection of working machinery and historic
artefacts. The attractive garden above the River Bollin
has been lovingly restored with a Cave, Dipping Ponds
and terraced flower beds. Nearby Styal Village has pretty
cottages and replica shops from its industrial heyday.
Stay in fashionable Alderley Edge at the Wizards Thatch,
in your own magical suite crammed full of intriguing
objects and a wonderful four poster bed.
4.LAKE DISTRICT CRUISE &
RUM DOODLE B&B
The Lake District is regularly voted Britain’s favourite
romantic destination. There is no better way to see the
stunning scenery that has entranced artists, poets and
lovers for centuries than by taking a ferry round one of the
lakes. You can choose from dramatic Ullswater, beautiful
Derwenwater and England’s longest lake, Windermere.
And for something completely different, go to the Lakeland
Motor Museum in the picturesque Leven Valley.
If you choose Windermere for your romantic escape, stay
at Rum Doodle B&B in Windermere village – ask for one
of the vintage-styled and rather whimsical top rooms here.
5.RIEVAULX ABBEY &
FEVERSHAM ARMS
As you gaze up at vast vaulted windows you can almost
hear the old monks chanting in the dramatic ruins of
Rievaulx Abbey, on the edge of the North York Moors.
Nestling in a peaceful valley this medieval abbey is one
of the north’s most visited attractions, and you’ll find an
attractive terrace above with woodland sculptures and
splendid views across the Yorkshire countryside.
Only a couple of miles away, is the gorgeous Feversham
Arms in the attractive market town of Helmsley. In this
award-winning hotel treat yourselves to a Deluxe Suite,
delicious afternoon tea and dine on superb food with fine
wine. You can experience the ultimate in pampering at the
Verbena Spa here, soaking in the hot tub or swimming in
the heated pool.
Autumn 2021 56
TOP BRITISH
SEASIDE TOWNS
Britain has a wealth of seaside towns that are ideal destinations for an autumn day trip
or a short holiday. But with so many towns offering stunning beaches, historical attractions
and a variety of nightlife activities, it can be difficult to decide which of them to visit. To help
you decide, here are ten of the best.
Autumn 2021 59
BOURNEMOUTH
It’s a long-term favourite of UK travellers because of its
warm microclimate and miles of sandy beaches. With a
huge variety of shops, restaurants, bars and clubs, there’s
plenty to keep you occupied. As well as award-winning
gardens, there are also many tours that embrace the
stunning coastline scenery. There’s something here for all
the family. If you’re new to watersports, you could even
take surfing lessons.
THE BRIT LIST
BRIGHTON
It continues to be one of the most popular seaside resorts
in Britain, and it’s easy to see why. Less than an hour
from London by train, Brighton is crammed with things
to do. Apart from the excitement of the nightlife, with
plenty of clubs, bars and restaurants, it’s also perfect for
all the family. In the daytime, take a trip to its famous
Royal Pavilion, a must-see attraction. Built for the
Prince Regent, later King George IV, it’s one of the most
extravagant palaces you are likely to see in Britain.
NEWQUAY
Another terrific beach destination with an array of golden,
sandy beaches close to the town centre. Every summer
the beaches, watersports and beautiful scenery draw the
crowds to Newquay, making it one of the most popular
coastal destinations in Britain. With the Blue Reef
Aquarium, Holywell Bay Fun Park and Newquay Zoo all
in the area, it’s a fantastic seaside resort for children and
adults.
BLACKPOOL
There’s nowhere quite like Blackpool! Still one of the most
visited family holiday destinations in Britain, Blackpool
has lots of fun activities for the whole family. Take the
tram along the promenade past the multitude of shops,
restaurants and amusement arcades. Blackpool Tower and
Ballroom are now iconic British attractions and should
not be missed during your stay. And if you’re a fan of
amusement parks, you must visit the famous Blackpool
Pleasure Beach, the most visited theme park in Britain.
ST.IVES
If you prefer a quieter holiday destination, St. Ives in
Cornwall is more of a traditional seaside town with pretty
sea views that have inspired generations of artists. The
sheltered coves and sandy beaches attract sun-worshippers
and swimmers, and surfers congregate to ride the waves.
Opened in 1993, the Tate St. Ives art gallery is the place
to go for art-lovers, boasting an impressive collection of
classic and contemporary art from around the world.
Autumn 2021 60
THE BRIT LIST
WHITBY
It’s easy to see why people love Whitby, with its maze
of alleyways and narrow streets running down to the
quayside. This North Yorkshire town has been a port
for more than a thousand years. Captain James Cook
even learned his seafaring skills here. It was also the
inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, with the dramatic
Whitby Abbey looming above the town. The Whitby
Gothic weekend is now one of the most popular Gothic
events in the world.
WEYMOUTH
With a delightful harbour, sandy beach and attractions
throughout the year, Weymouth remains one of Britain’s
most loved seaside towns. King George III was so
impressed, he bought Gloucester lodge on the seafront
for his holiday home. Events throughout the year include
the International Beach Kite Festival, Carnival Day,
volleyball and sailing championships, and motorcycle
rallies. Situated on the Jurassic Coast - a UNESCO World
Heritage Site - Weymouth is perfect for long walks along
the stunning coastline.
PENZANCE
Fast becoming known as the cultural centre of Cornwall,
Penzance is the ideal place for a relaxing break by the
sea. With a quaint harbour, stunning beaches, historic
architecture, art galleries, and many shops, restaurants and
bars, many view the town as the perfect English seaside
retreat. There’s enough to savour in Penzance alone, but it
would also be a great base from which to explore the rest
of Cornwall.
GREAT YARMOUTH
For a British family vacation, Great Yarmouth could be
the ideal choice. There is so much to see and do, with a
huge choice of places to eat, drink and shop. There are
miles of sandy beaches for those seeking a traditional
English beach experience, but there are also plenty of
secluded areas, if that’s more your style. With theme
parks, museums, theatres, casinos and racing tracks, there
are attractions to suit all tastes.
ST.ANDREWS
This lively Scottish university town is famous for its
golf courses, but there’s plenty here for all the family. St.
Andrews Botanic Gardens are internationally acclaimed
and have been called a ‘hidden gem’ of Scotland. With
a gorgeous beach, quaint little shops and tearooms, and
historical sites, it’s a perfect retreat from city life.
Autumn 2021 62
LONDON’S
FINEST
London is one of the greatest cities in the world, with fantastic luxury hotels to
match its reputation. If you want to live a life of luxury, read our comprehensive
guide to the finest high-end hotels the capital has to offer. It stands to reason that
there’s an abundance of properties in London to match those of any world-class
city The problem is there’s just so much choice. We’ve narrowed it down to the
cream of the crop, with tiptop service and luxury on tap, to go spoil yourself at.
Just for good measure, we’ve also included our recommendations for Afternoon
Tea, Rooftop Bars, Spas, Casinos and themed entertainment. What else could any
visitor to the Big Smoke want?
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
HOTELS: BEST OF THE REST
AFTERNOON TEA
ROOFTOP BARS
SPAS
CASINOS
THEMED BARS
...page 64
...page 94
...page 104
...page 108
...page 112
...page 114
...page 116
Written By Martin Mason and Holly Cannon
Compiled by: John W Stammers
Planning: Sophie Bailey
Photography: Julie Paice, Flavio Liotto
Autumn 2021 64 Autumn 2021 65
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
JW MARRIOTT GROSVENOR
HOUSE, LONDON
Located in the glamorous Mayfair, this is one of the Capital’s most desirable addresses, with the
West End and Knightsbridge just a short stroll away. Grosvenor House is one of London’s most
established, but also its biggest five-star hotels.
Partly designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, and opened in 1929, it was
always intended to operate on a grand scale. Marriott International
completed a multi-million dollar renovation of the property in
2019 and the ground floor has been reimagined to complement the
alluring views of Hyde Park, with décor including butterfly wall
art and bespoke carpets, and redesigned guest rooms. The hotel’s
originally lobby has also been transformed, with floor-to-ceiling
glass connecting the lobby entrance to the property’s beautiful
Park Room, where Afternoon Tea is served.
Rooms
The recent restoration has added modern touches without losing
the iconic details of the building’s past. Each of the bedrooms
and suites is furnished with luxury fabrics and a subtle blend of
traditional and contemporary furnishings. All rooms have the
essential comforts including individual climate control, satellite
TV and high-speed internet. Our wonderful suite offered three
separate rooms, expensive marbles, fresh flowers, and a stunning
view overlooking Hyde Park. It represented the idyllic marriage
between the traditional and modern characters of the hotel.
Food
We dined in the hotel’s main restaurant, the upmarket JW Steakhouse
– with its impressive line-up of USDA-grade filets, New
York strips and bone-in Kansas City strips alongside various cuts
of Aberdeen Angus. While beef is the star, the menu also offers a
wide array of authentically prepared dishes including true Maryland-style
lump crab cakes, line-caught cod fish and chips and
pan-seared Scottish salmon. Don’t miss the Bourbon Bar which
offers over 300 rare, pre-prohibition, single barrel and small batch
Bourbons and knowledgeable bartenders to help choose your
tipple. The fine-dining option is Corrigan’s Mayfair, run by chef
Richard Corrigan and the hotel’s most recent eatery Ruya London
offers a taste of contemporary dishes from the Anatolian region.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.marriott.co.uk/hotels/travel/longh-jw-marriottgrosvenor-house-london
Autumn 2021 66
“Our verdict
This grande dame in Mayfair is majestic and refined with
a rich history, a visit to the Grosvenor House is an event in
itself. The recent multimillion refurbishment has added a
contemporary feel, which sits in harmony with the property’s
classic architecture. Food and drink options are all first
class, while the flawless service will leave you feeling like
royalty during your stay.
Autumn 2021 67
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
NYX HOTELS BY LEONARDO
HOTELS LONDON, HOLBORN
Conveniently positioned on Southampton Row in the Midtown area between the City and London’s
West End, a stay at newly opened NYX Hotel is a relaxing, luxurious and electrifying experience
not to be missed.
You won’t have to walk far for easy connections to the rest of the
city. The hotel is just five minutes from Russell Square underground
station and under a half-hour from King’s Cross, Euston
and St. Pancras railway stations. More importantly, it’s within
strolling distance of highlight attractions like the British Museum
and lively Covent Garden and Soho areas.
The hotel also offers a number of rejuvenating leisure activities if
you wanted to stay on site. Luxury facilities include Rena Spa’s
tranquil treatments, the indoor 13m Greco-Roman swimming pool,
revitalising steam room, sauna, fully equipped gym, and more.
And their rigorous commitment to hygiene, including Ecolab
disinfectant products that are proven to be effective against Covid,
will reassure you that you’ll be safe every second of your stay.
Rooms
Offering 213 exuberant bedrooms and suites, all are outfitted with
modern amenities, including air conditioning, flat-screen TVs,
and ensuite bathrooms. The NYX Hotel also keeps you connected
with free Wi-Fi throughout the building - speedy for all your
business and leisure needs. Select one of the more spacious rooms,
like the Super Star or Heaven where we stayed, and you could get
additional features like a Smeg fridge and minibar with premium
refreshments, a pillow menu, comfy bathrobes, and more. It also
featured striking artwork, an example of the hotel’s collaboration
with local artists which aims to make a creative connection between
the hotel, the city and the guests.
Food
Add a little mid-town glamour to comfort dining and drinking with
NYX Hotel Eat, Drink & Play. From breakfast to dinner, a wide
array of American inspired dishes, local beers, exclusive cocktails
and extensive Tequila options make the NYX Hotel a perfect
place to indulge and socialise. Whether you’re looking for an early
morning caffeine hit and fuel food, a culture junkie in search of
a delicious midday dish, or a group of professionals wanting to
unwind with a few post-work G&Ts, the NYX Hotel is the place
to go. Everything we were served from mid-evening cocktails to
dinner and the generous breakfast buffet was very good.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.nyx-hotels.com/londonholborn
Autumn 2021 70
“Our verdict
looking people.
With close connections to the capital’s top attractions, luxury
rooms and a wide array of leisurely and social delights,
the NYY Hotel is one of the most high-spirited hotels you’ll
find in London. This is a smart-looking hotel for smart
Autumn 2021 71
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
APEX TEMPLE COURT
HOTEL, LONDON
Amongst the cobblestoned streets in the heart of London, set in a quiet courtyard location
in Fleet Street, sits the Apex Temple Court Hotel. True to the Apex style, the hotel has an
understated elegance and offers comfortable luxury.
Previously barristers’ chambers in the legal heartland of
Inner Temple, these post-war buildings underwent a £50
million conversion to create this stunning 204-room hotel.
Just £6m were invested in the luxurious suites alone. We
recommend staying in one of these suites to see why - not a
penny was wasted.
Located just 10 minutes from Covent Garden and St. Paul’s
Cathedral, it’s the perfect spot for easy transport links into
and out of the West End. How will you know you’re in the
right place? The large green elephant outside the reception
entrance is unmissable. You’ll even become quite fond of
him during your stay. We certainly did!
Rooms
We stayed in the Grand Suite, an impressively large room
with its own lobby entrance. Its grandeur made it feel more
like an elegant city apartment than a hotel suite. The stylish
and contemporary living area had huge sofas, a kitchen area
containing a Nespresso Vertuo coffee machine and a huge
smart TV.
Food
A short stroll across the quaint courtyard sits the Amicable
Society of Lazy Ballerinas, the perfect place to escape for an
afternoon or evening drinking exciting wines, accompanied
by great food. It’s my favourite kind of eating, perfect for
picking and sipping with dishes that were flavoursome and
fresh.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.apexhotels.co.uk/destinations/london/apex-templecourt-hotel
“Our verdict
A great hotel in a quiet central location with an impressive
personal service and nice little touches that will make your
stay a delight from start to finish. For that extra special
occasion, we would 100% recommend one of Apex Temple
Court’s spectacular suites.
Autumn 2021 72 Autumn 2021 73
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
SOUTH PLACE HOTEL,
LONDON
Sandwiched between Moorgate and Liverpool Street, where the City of London gives
way to the East End, the South Place Hotel plays harmonious host to both city slickers
and creative types.
The brainchild of D&D’s Des Gunewardena and David Loewi, this
80-room hotel boasts some serious design credentials. The interiors
come courtesy of Conran and Partners, and Allies and Morrison
are behind the sleek architecture. It was a Friday night when we
visited, so there was a vibrant buzz in the air at 3 South Place Bar
& Grill. Everything about its design is fabulous and reminds you
this is more than just a leisure stay, it’s an experience.
Rooms
The first thing that caught our eye upon entering our room was the
artwork, and it was an incredible first impression. Our studio was
very smart, spacious and well designed. The Bang & Olufsen, with
its parting curtains effect when switching on, really grips your attention,
as does the marble-floored bathroom with a host of quirky
features.
Food
The hotel features three restaurants, a rooftop Michelin-starred
seafood restaurant called Angler, the Secret Garden and its outdoor
terrace, and the South Place Chop House where we enjoyed our
evening. The menu is dedicated to seasonal and carefully sourced
cuts of meat and freshly caught fish, modernised with continental
flavours and seasoning. A testament to the combination of great
food, good wine and effortless service kept us in South Place Chop
House for well over two and a half hours.
Thanks to our bedroom’s blackout blinds and the general comfort
we experienced, we almost slept through breakfast. That would
have been a tragedy considering the grill served up the best Full
English we’d had in some time.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.southplacehotel.com
Autumn 2021 74
“Our verdict
A vibrant mix of trend setting Shoreditch and city exuberance,
South Place Hotel mixes comfort with cutting edge
technology and intelligent design for a first-class sleep
experience. With suave city city folk to your left, and dotcom
hipsters to your right, you can pick your perfect crowd, and
explore this diverse and effervescent part of East London.
Autumn 2021 75
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
APEX CITY OF
LONDON HOTEL
Tucked away on Seething Lane in the historic pillar of London, just steps from Tower Hill is the sleek
and stylish Apex City of London Hotel. It’s a perfect modern hideaway for work or play, whether
you’re staying alone or as a group.
Situated within walking distance of Fenchurch Street station (two
minutes) and Tower Hill tube station (three minutes), the convenient
proximity makes exploring the capital easy. That’s assuming
you won’t be making the most of the hotel’s leisure facilities. You
can work up a sweat in the spacious 24/7 gym, free for all guests,
which features a range of Technogym equipment. Or perhaps
you’ll choose to kick back with a delicious breakfast and hot coffee
in the light-filled, open-plan Hart Street Lounge. With spacious
and relaxing workspaces, it’s an ideal spot for business professionals,
or is the perfect place to crack the spine of that novel you’ve
been wanting to read.
Rooms
Every room has been designed to ensure your stay is comfortable
and glamorous. The modern décor and chic interiors are complemented
by Elemis toiletries, dreamy king-sized beds, 46’’ TVs
and complimentary Wi-Fi. There is a range of different rooms on
offer, all of them containing rich furnishings befitting its four-star
status, but the spacious Deluxe and Superior Rooms are ideal for
long stays and relaxing breaks in the capital. Our Junior Suite had
a balcony that offered fabulous views of Tower Bridge. It was
well equipped with a large living space, bath and walk-in shower.
Some rooms even have extra special touches like Nespresso coffee
machines and fluffy bathrobes.
Food
The Lampery is oft considered one of the best restaurants near the
Tower of London, and its Instaworthy dishes make for a foodie’s
dream. Inspired by their patron, Samuel Pepys, the Lampery offers
a divine selection of British cuisine in ultra-chic surroundings.
Whether you come for breakfast, lunch, dinner or just for some
light bites, the Head Chef creates vibrant seasonal dishes from locally
sourced ingredients that look utterly stunning and taste even
better. There’s also the Lampery Terrace for alfresco dining which
is where we enjoyed some wonderful small plates and chilled
Lanson champagne.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.apexhotels.co.uk/destinations/london/apex-city-oflondon-hotel
“Our verdict
This luxurious hideaway sits within a great historic location
and is perfect for any kind of traveller to the capital. The
rooms are smart and the Lampery is an absolute must for
anyone who loves good, honest British cuisine.
Autumn 2021 78
Autumn 2021 79
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
THE DILLY, LONDON
Everyone loves a building with a rich history and The Dilly, a playful
nod to the hotel’s enviable location in Piccadilly in heart of London
is no exception.
The building was designed in 1904 by Richard Norman Shaw in a
Neo-Baroque style, first operating as The Piccadilly Hotel in 1908
and guests at the time included King George V. The property has
been sold several times over its more than 100-year history but
following an ambitious refurbishment programme by New owners
Archer Hotel Capital, it has reopened its doors as The Dilly. In a
convenient spot just off the Circus on the Mayfair end of Piccadilly,
surrounded by cafés, bars, clubs, restaurants, shops and
theatres, the hotel couldn’t be better placed for exploring central
London. As you enter the building the dramatic colour scheme
creates a look that feels both very classic London, yet modern at
the same time. Despite the extensive interior update, much of this
grand old lady’s original neo-classical features survive. Wonderful
flower displays are the first thing that greet you supplied by local
florists Pulbrook & Gould. Arrangements can be purchased here in
the lobby, or made up at their nearby store and delivered to guests
rooms within the hour, a classy touch.
Rooms
Despite its intimate lobby, the hotel has an impressive 284 rooms
spread over nine floors. Our spacious rooms had everything you
would expect from a hotel of this calibre, mega comfortable kingsize
bed, smart TV, high-speed wifi and fluffy gowns to drown in.
Unique artwork and a large bathroom with high-end toiletries were
welcome features. We had some amazing chocolates and macrons
in our room which were washed down by chilled bubbles and
ensuring our stay got off to the best of starts.
Food
After an invigorating swim in one of the largest indoor pools in
central London, we had worked up an appetite. There are several
dining options in the hotel. The high-end Madhu’s at the Dilly, part
of the family-run Madhu’s Indian fine-dining chain melds the traditional
with the modern by offering Punjabi cuisine with a Kenyan
twist. We dined in the Terrace at The Dilly on Piccadilly based
in the spectacular, glass conservatory on the second floor. British
classic inspire the menu and everything we had was here excellent.
The hotel also serves its popular Peter Rabbit afternoon tea
in this location.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.thedillylondon.com
“Our verdict
With a delightful range of visitor experiences including
salsa classes and bike rides with picnic hampers, The Dilly
is aware that it needs to offer more to attract new audiences
as the capital slowly comes back to life. Based on our stay,
there’s no doubt that it’s ideally positioned to succeed.
Autumn 2021 80 Autumn 2021 81
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
THE STAFFORD LONDON,
ST JAMES’S
Minutes from the West End and tucked away in the heart of historic St. James’s, Mayfair,
is the five-star luxury hotel The Stafford London - a vibrant place to stay conveniently
located on the doorstep of London’s most iconic landmarks.
After our first visit in 2019, we classed The Stafford as one of our
favourite London venues. How would it fare two years and one
global pandemic later?
Visitors will now find new measures to keep guests and staff safe,
including thermal scanners, increased hand sanitisation facilities,
and a robust audit process ensuring new regimes are consistently
implemented. The extensive measures will reassure you more than
they’ll feel invasive or tedious.
Open since 1912, The Stafford has maintained its splendour and
doesn’t look at all dated - on the contrary, the interiors are stylish
and modern. Guests can also take a tour of the grand 380-year-old
wine cellar that boasts 8,000 bottles of wine. Once used as a bomb
shelter in WWII, it’s a time capsule of history where you’ll find
old papers and cigarette packets preserved by the hotel. It’s a must
for any history boff.
Rooms
Suites are spread across three buildings: the Main House, Carriage
House and the Mews. Smaller but more on the traditional side are
the Main House’s plush rooms, each decorated with rich tones.
Converted from old stables is the Carriage House, and it proudly
shows its history with its country house vibe - soft colours and
large beds framed by enormous, curved headboards. From the
outside, the Mews building looks to be the least luxurious, but its
interior proves to be the polar opposite. With lush bedrooms and
marble bathrooms, each equipped with tubs and both overhead and
separate showers, this is the true five-star treatment. Our stunning
Penthouse Suite had its very own terrace from which we enjoyed
views over the rooftops of Mayfair and St James’s.
Food
The award-winning Game Bird is the main restaurant, which
focuses on seasonal modern British comfort cooking - aptly described
as a ‘theatre of the senses.’ Regular changing game options
include roast pigeon, venison loin or mallard. We enjoyed dishes
including scallops, smoked salmon, pigeon and the signature
chicken kiev dish. Everything was first-rate and only matched by
the impeccable service. There’s also the atmospheric American Bar
with a broad range of Mediterranean inspired dishes and signature
cocktails. Overseen by Bar Director, Benoit Provost, whose creations
are referenced by cocktail lovers worldwide. Special mention
goes to the outstanding full English breakfast which once again,
knocked our socks (or bathrobes) off.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.thestaffordlondon.com
Autumn 2021 82
“Our verdict
The Stafford London lives up to its five-star reputation
with its rich history, convenient proximity to London’s
landmarks, plush accommodation and sophisticated dining
experience. Moreover, it remains one of our favourite and
top-rated hotels in London.
Autumn 2021 83
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
DALLOWAY TERRACE AT THE
BLOOMSBURY HOTEL, LONDON
Named after Mrs Dalloway, the protagonist of Virginia Woolf’s classic 1925 novel of the same name,
Dalloway Terrace has been described as the most Instagrammable restaurant in London. After our
visit, it’s safe to say this seasonal haven lives up to its elegant reputation.
Why go?
Situated on the actual terrace of the Bloomsbury hotel with a décor
that changes with the seasons, this gorgeous ‘indoor-outdoor’ alfresco
spot is perfect for enjoying the outdoors whilst sipping wine
and eating divine dishes. The service is also exceptional, complemented
by the smart and quirky attire of the waiters. If you have
concerns about the autumn weather then don’t fret, the fire heaters
spread out across the terrace will keep you toasty no matter the
forecast. Not even a thunderstorm could ruin your visit, the awning
and zip-close walls make for perfect shelter.
Who to go with
Dalloway Terrace is the perfect spot for all manner of occasions
and attracts a diverse range of people. Whether you’re looking to
take your colleagues out for a trendy post-work dinner or are looking
for an idyllic anniversary meal, this place is a dream.
What to eat & drink
Whether you’re here for lunch, dinner, afternoon tea or brunch,
there’s a wide range of options whatever your palette - including
a selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes. The lunch and dinner
menu consists of salads, seafood and steaks. Whilst the afternoon
tea includes deliciously sweet meringues and classic scones
served with Devonshire clotted cream and Scottish raspberry jam,
amongst other savoury treats. Desserts like the skillet brownie and
crème brûlée are also not to be passed up. Standouts amongst the
delights we were served was a heavenly combination of fresh oysters
and perfectly chilled English bubbles from Rathfinny Wine Estate
in Sussex. Their wine list is so vast you’ll be spoilt for choice,
and you’ll need to keep coming back to pop next door to the Coral
Room bar and try out their impressive range of champagnes, rums
and gins.•
“
Our verdict
”
The blend of Instaworthy aesthetics and incredible dishes
make this an absolute must for any Londoner or frequent
visitor to the capital.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.dallowayterrace.com
The details
Dalloway Terrace accepts reservations 4 weeks in advance for up to 6 guests
per table. Inform them of any dietary requirements, special requests or celebrations
during booking.
Open daily from midday on Monday - Wednesday and 11am every
other day.
Prices vary, with main meals starting at £20 - not including drinks or other
courses. Brunch is £29.50 per person (11am - 2pm from Thursday - Sunday).
Afternoon Tea is £35 per person (every day 1pm - 4pm).
All cocktails are £15.
Autumn 2021 84 Autumn 2021 85
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
THE MAY FAIR HOTEL
MAYFAIR, LONDON
Opened by King George V in 1927, the award-winning May Fair Hotel has a prestigious legacy it
retains to this day. Having played host to some of London’s most era-defining cinema, theatre and
music, it is now the official hotel to the British Film Institute and London Fashion Week.
Situated within walking distance from Buckingham Palace, the
hotel is enviably close to the glamorous restaurants of Berkeley
Street and Bond Street’s boutiques. Green Park tube station is also
a short journey by foot, granting easy access to the Jubilee, Piccadilly
and Victoria lines. There’s plenty of leisure options within
the hotel too, including a luxury spa, tranquil secluded terrace and
24-hour gym.
Rooms
There are over 400 rooms at the May Fair, including 37 suites,
offering a wide selection of some of the largest and most lavish
rooms you’ll find in London. Redefining modern luxury, our room
had richly textured fabrics, goose down bedding, a Vi-Spring
mattress, Catalan-designed furniture, a smart TV and a stunning
Sicilian marble bathroom. There are also family-friendly interconnecting
rooms if you’re bringing the kids but still want some
privacy. Complimentary Wi-Fi is covered across the hotel, keeping
you connected throughout your stay.
Food
Book ahead to get a table at their flagship May Fair Kitchen,
which offers a contemporary selection of exquisite Spanish and
Italian dishes as well as a curated list of fine wines and cocktails.
The ambience is also a relaxing delight with mellow lighting and
natural material furnishings. If you’re booked for a weekend, the
Charbonnel et Walker Afternoon Tea offers a heavenly chocolatey
experience that is a must for any chocaholic. There’s also
the ever-popular May Fair Bar where we enjoyed a few rounds of
cocktails and people watched the glamourous guests. The hotel
has partnered with the House of Suntory’s Roku Gin to create a
bespoke menu of cocktails, Japanese-inspired small plates and
brunch classics, which transports guests to the streets of Japan with
a botanical-themed environment - the interior blooming with cherry
blossom. Don’t miss the full English breakfast which the hotel
is happy to serve to your room.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.themayfairhotel.co.uk
Autumn 2021 86
“Our verdict
The May Fair Hotel lives up to its glamorous reputation,
providing some of the most luxurious accommodation and
cuisine you’ll find in London, whilst also being in enviable
proximity to the capital’s most exclusive restaurants
and boutiques.
Autumn 2021 87
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
THE ROYAL LANCASTER,
LONDON
Offering some of the most awe-inspiring views in the capital is the 18-storey Royal Lancaster
London, which stands proudly at the border of Hyde Park and marries elegant design with the
highest standards of comfort and service.
Adjacent to Lancaster Gate Station and a short stroll from Paddington
Station, the hotel is conveniently situated for easy travel
across London. If stress-free access to an airport is essential, the
Heathrow Express will get you to Heathrow Airport. A 30-minute
walk across Hyde Park will get you to Knightsbridge, and Marble
Arch at the top of Oxford Street is just a 15-minute journey
by foot. With close proximity to several of London’s landmarks,
you’ll want to get out and enjoy the
capital’s highlights.
Extensive but unobtrusive safety measures are now in place. Sensor-based
hand sanitiser dispensers are close to hand in all public
spaces, luggage is cleaned with disinfectant wipes or UV light
(with guest consent), housekeeping options are flexible - from zero
contact to full-service (if pre-booked) - and more. You can relax
with full confidence that the Royal Lancaster London is committed
to protecting its staff and guests from Covid-19.
Rooms
In 2017, the Royal Lancaster London celebrated 50 years since
opening with a renovation that gave all 411 of its rooms and suites
a fresh, beautiful modern look. Every room offers equal comfort
and luxury, providing smart TVs, USB hubs and a working desk
fit for business and leisure. The large marble bathrooms contain
twin sinks, a roomy bathtub, walk-in shower and opulent White
Company toiletries. Our Park Suite ramped the luxury levels up to
maximum with a spacious living space, expansive bedroom, plush
furniture, an enormous bed and breathtaking panoramic views of
London’s world-famous skyline. Quite an experience.
Food
The Nipa Thai is a hidden marvel within the heart of London.
Led by Head Chef Sanguan Parr, you’ll find the most authentic
Thai cuisine outside of Bangkok. The dishes we chose were both
mouth-watering and plentiful with surprisingly good wine matches.
Service was first-class and the lively atmosphere indicated that
a thoroughly good time was being had by all. If Thai food is not to
your tastes, there’s the elegant and stylish Island Gill, which offers
an exquisite range of meat and salad dishes alongside a relaxed
modern menu for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Step out onto
the outdoor terrace for alfresco dining with spectacular views of
Hyde Park. For high-quality coffee and mouth-watering cakes and
pastries, check out the Hyde Café - also serving a delectable selection
of great wines and light bites.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.royallancaster.com
“Our verdict
Uber Luxurious rooms, fine cuisine, panoramic views of
London’s iconic skyline and close connections for easy travel
across London make the Royal Lancaster London the perfect
place to stay to enjoy all the capital has to offer.
Autumn 2021 88
Autumn 2021 89
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
ST. PANCRAS RENAISSANCE HOTEL,
LONDON
Arguably one of the most beautiful hotels in London, the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel is now
an iconic landmark in its own right. Dating back to the Victorian era, the hotel has a rich history
that is woven into the beauty of staying there.
Looming over St. Pancras station with the Eurostar terminal on its
doorstep, it looks more like a fairytale castle than a hotel.
If those Gothic spires look familiar, it’s probably because you’ve
seen them in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets when Harry
and Ron flew a car over them. The hotel gravitates towards the
stunning grand staircase, a beautiful space with hand painted fleurde-lis
wallpaper, tapestry carpet and wrought-iron balustrading
under a starry vaulted ceiling. Music fans will recognise it from
the iconic Spice Girls video ‘Wannabe’ and it’s definitely worth an
impromptu photo shoot during your stay.
Rooms
The hotel is split into two - the new half and the old half. There are
207 rooms in the Barlow section, the modern extension of the hotel
which is inviting with big, modern bathrooms, soft lighting, smart
TVs and high-speed Wi-Fi. There are 38 historic Chambers Suites
in the old part of the property, which is where we stayed. Our huge
room had gorgeous Victorian features - ornate cornicing, marble
fireplaces, and a vast bathroom. With so much space and in such
a beautiful setting, you really can make it your home away from
home during your stay, no matter how short it may be.
Food
There are good options for dining within the hotel. The Hansom
Bar & Lounge blends tradition and modern luxury with all-day
dining and drinking and also serves afternoon tea. This is where
we sampled some truly fabulous Cocktails and a range of small
plates which were all delicious.. Breakfast is a bustling and lively
affair. You can enjoy a Full English Breakfast or choose from a
vast array of hot or cold options. It is one of the most varied and
popular breakfast menus in London. A second restaurant, the allday
dining restaurant, the Booking Office 1869, serves contemporary
British fare.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.marriott.co.uk/hotels/travel/lonpr-st-pancrasrenaissance-hotel-london
“Our verdict
Luxury meets history in the heart of Kings Cross.
This hotel oozes class through the renovation which took it
from the old Midland Railway building to one of the most
atmospheric properties anywhere in the capital. For the
combination of location and atmosphere, St Pancras Renaissance
is difficult to beat.
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HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
THE SUNBORN
LONDON
Our plans to sail the Mediterranean this summer may have been derailed by restrictions
this year, but thankfully we can live out our superyacht dreams closer to home at the
swish Sunborn London.
Moored at the Royal Victoria Docks, by the ExCel centre, the Sunborn
London Yacht Hotel is the city’s only superyacht hotel, and
one of the most unique luxury experiences in London. The lifts on
the outside of the vessel, which whisk you up to the second-floor
reception area, are proof that you won’t be leaving the dock. But
stepping out into the striking reception area with its teak wood
accents, a sweeping glass staircase and magnificent chandelier, has
all the exciting feel of the beginning of a cruise.
Rooms
Each room and suite of the 136-room floating hotel boasts fabulous
river or dock views, while the plush Yacht Executive Rooms
in which we stayed, have their own private terrace or balcony, too.
Every room has smart TV, high-speed wi-fi and is stocked with
high-end toiletries. There’s also an in-room tablet and a Lavazza
coffee machine. Bathrooms are a good size with showers and the
Executive suite have whirlpool baths, showers, a sauna and a huge
balcony for those essential social media snaps. They are great fun.
Food
After knocking back a couple of delicious cocktails in The Bright
Sundown Bar, we headed to the hotel’s high-end Lands End
restaurant which promises to take your tastebuds on a voyage of
discovery. A refined menu of European and Asian fusion offers
fine dining in a sumptuous setting with truly enviable views. We
enjoyed everything we were served including a particularly good
wine match with our steak choice. Breakfast, also taken in the
Lands End restaurant, is also worth a special mention.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.sunbornhotels.com/london
Autumn 2021 92
“Our verdict
As a place to stay in the capital, The Sunborn London
offers something a bit different and is a great alternative to
atmosphere-free, chain hotels. It’s a destination in itself and
a worthy consideration for your staycation wish list. Handy
for the ExCel centre and close to London City Airport and
Canary Wharf, it’s also a good base for travel in and out of
the capital.
Autumn 2021 93
HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
THE HARD ROCK HOTEL,
LONDON
With its new hotel at Marble Arch, Hard Rock Cafe brings it back to where it all began: London.
The eponymous music, merchandise and restaurant company now has 186 cafes, 29 hotels and 12 casinos
worldwide, but it started - by two Americans - with a small burger-serving cafe in Mayfair in 1971.
After nearly 50 years, you might think the idea is tired, but in its
first London hotel, the party is still going strong. The Hard Rock
London feels very Hollywood luxe, with gold and turquoise accents
lighting up the lobby area. A lot of emphasis has been placed
on curating just the right set of memorabilia including David Bowie’s
“Relax” t-shirt, Freddie Mercury’s piano from his family home
in Middlesex and one of Paul McCartney’s iconic Beatles suits.
Rock memorabilia also adorn the walls of the main bar, an impressive
golden circular behemoth, including instruments, costumes
and other clothing. There’s also a Hard Rock shop is just across the
lobby to get your merch fix.
Rooms
There are two grades of room, Deluxe and Rock Royalty which we
stayed in. This included VIP check-in and access to the glitzy Rock
Royalty lounge, with its mirrored feature walls and velvet seats.
Music-themed perks on offer include personalized playlists, record
players and vinyl, and the opportunity to reserve a Fender guitar
and amp for your own jamming session.
There is original artwork in each room inspired by the photography
of Terry O’Neill and one of the quirkiest touches in our room
was the mirror marked out with celebrity heights, all the way from
Ariana Grande (5 ft. 3) to Snoop Dogg (6 ft. 4). All room grades
feature Hypnos beds, as well as free Wi-Fi, a digital TV and a
Nespresso machine.
Food
Make sure to book some time in for a cocktail or two at that
lavish lobby bar, grab a space in one of the sumptuous booths
and watch the mixologists create something delicious. The Hard
Rock restaurant offers the famous, clean-cut American menu here,
from burgers and steaks to fajitas and the classic Californian Cobb
Salad. This is also the space where the breakfast buffet is served in
the morning featuring a whole manner of pastries and English and
American breakfast items.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.hardrockhotels.com
“Our verdict
Hard Rock London is a chic hotel in the heart of the West
End and the vibe is lively as a result. It offers mass appeal,
is a lot of fun and is perfectly located for access to all the
tourist sights you could possibly want to see on a weekend
in the capital.
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HOTELS: HIGHLIGHTS
THE BEAUFORT BAR,
THE SAVOY
In the heart of London, The Savoy sits on the Northbank of the River Thames, equidistant from the world’s financial
capital and the highlight attractions of Knightsbridge and Mayfair. No other five-star London hotel could be more
perfectly situated for business or leisure.
Built in 1889 by theatrical impresario Richard D’Oyly Carte,
The Savoy is still known for its enviable proximity to London’s
West End - home to many of the most celebrated stage productions
in the world. Covent Garden is also just a short stroll
north, where you’ll find the Royal Opera House and some of the
most upscale fashion and beauty boutiques London has to offer
on Monmouth Street. Across the Thames you’ll find the London
arts quarter, consisting of the Southbank Centre, Royal National
Theatre, Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe and the world’s
tallest observation wheel: the London Eye. Somerset House, a
stone’s throw east of the hotel, is also a must if you’re a fan of
Neoclassical arts.
Rooms
Decorated in either an elegant Edwardian or Art Deco style,
most of The Savoy’s 267 luxury guest rooms and suites boast
some of the most stunning views of London that the city has
to offer. We highly recommend you get a room that offers a
beautiful panoramic view of the Thames. The rooms are bright
and come with plush furnishings and a Nespresso machine. The
suite bathrooms also come with a lovely walk-in shower and
clawfoot bath.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.thesavoylondon.com
Drinks
The main event of our visit was to the dramatic jet-black and
dazzling gold décor of the romantic Beaufort Bar. Once upon a
time, cabaret stars graced The Savoy stage. Now, from a bar that
stands on that same stage, you’ll find a range of classic and new
cocktails made with an element of drama. We went to taste their
unique three-pillared ‘Interpreted Magic’ drinks menu. Inspired
by the ‘three pillars’ of magic, each represents a stage in the
traditional magic show and consist of a spellbinding range of
mixed drinks, wines, Champagnes, spirits, gins and tonics.
The star of the show was undoubtedly Europe’s most sustainable
cocktail: The Co-Naissance. This environmentally friendly
masterpiece was invented by Senior Mixologist at The Savoy,
Cristian Silenzi. It brings together Portobello Road Gin in lowwaste
ecoSPIRITSTM format, re-carbonated Champagne, and
two unique locally foraged London ingredients: elderflower
from Little Venice and fig leaves from Embankment Gardens.
Its name celebrates both knowledge of the past and new beginnings,
themes that could not be timelier as the world emerges
from a challenging period and looks to a greener future. Costing
£25, the cocktail is worth every penny.•
“Our verdict
The Savoy is perfect for stunning London sights and exploring
the London arts scene. Whilst the Beaufort Bar is a
gorgeous venue with some of the most imaginative drinks in
the capital, and The Co-Naissance is an absolute must.
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Autumn 2021 97
HOTELS: BEST OF THE REST
Mandarin Oriental
Hyde Park, Knightsbridge
The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park hotel
underwent a major facelift that was
completed in the year 2000 and has since
gone on to become one of London’s
top hotels. It boasts a Michelin Starred
restaurant in “Foliage” as well as a
Victorian style decor. With over half of
the 173 rooms and 23 suites overlooking
Hyde Park, this exquisitely located hotel
is ideal for anyone looking for luxury
accommodation in Knightsbridge. The
spa has exclusive treatments unique to
this location and has been voted as the
one of the UK’s best spa multiple times.
Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair
The Dorchester
Housed in a landmark Art Deco building
dating from 1931 and facing its own
tree-filled green, The Dorchester looks
like a great ocean going liner, and
stands on one of the most prestigious
thoroughfares in London, Park Lane.
The service across the hotel is second
to none, an impressive combination
of easy-going but always polite charm
and personality and superb efficiency.
The spa features top brands such as La
Prairie and Valmont and a treatment
menu offering a choice of no less than
22 high-powered facials, and the rooms
are tasteful: some in an opulent, chintzy
style; most with a smart, pampering look
using restful prints and hues.
Of many five star hotels in Mayfair,
the Rocco Forte owned Brown’s
Hotel stands out as it was the first ever
hotel opened in London. The level of
uniqueness in every room and suite
has drawn major political figures and
authors such as Rudyard Kipling back
to this luxury hotel each time he visited
the area. A perfect example of authentic
British dining in London can be had
at HIX Mayfair which is adorned with
original works by British Artists. This is
complemented well by the Donovan Bar
which is aptly covered with iconic prints
from the renowned Terence Donovan.
TOP CHOICE: A TOUCH OF ITALY
The Franklin London -
Starhotels Collezione
The Franklin is based just off Egerton Crescent in
Knightsbridge, reportedly one of the most expensive streets in
the world, around five minutes walk from South Kensington
Underground station. The property was acquired by Italian
hotel group Starhotels and reopened in 2016. Starhotels also
counts London’s The Gore and The Pelham within its portfolio,
as well as Castille in Paris, The Michelangelo in New York,
and more than 20 hotels in Italy.
The interiors, created by Anouska Hempel are predominantly
monochrome, with varying shades of grey from the marble
and limestone floors, Italian velvet upholstery, grey and cream
wall hangings, and mirror framed prints. Our suite featured a
wrought iron four poster bed, large art nouveau style mirrors,
hardwood floors, Frette Italian linen, blackout blinds, and large
flatscreen TV. Special mention goes to the fabulous bathroom
which included a large wet room with bathtub and double rain
shower. Its a lovely hotel in the poshest part of town with a
peaceful setting, impeccable service and beautiful design both
in the rooms and public spaces. - starhotelscollezione.com
Autumn 2021 98
TOP CHOICE: THE GREATEST OF DAMES
The Langham
TOP CHOICE: A RIVERSIDE ICON
The Royal Horseguards
HOTELS: BEST OF THE REST
The Langham has had more than 150 years to perfect its winning formula of top-notch service, highly competitive drinking
and dining and classically elegant style. You’ll find plenty of marble in this hotel, starting with the stately pillars in the lobby,
combined with chandeliers, and tasteful placement of orchids throughout the property. Service is expertly slick and attentive, yet
warm, and there’s a small spa with pool.
The hotel’s restaurant, Roux at the Landau is a beautiful oval room designed by David Collins. A cocktail at Artesian, which held
the title of World’s Best Bar from 2011-15, is a must. The menu is strong but not intimidatingly so, with interesting but utterly
delicious options. The Bees Knees features three kinds of honey, lemon and gin; if you like grapefruit, try the Paloma; while
Espresso Martini devotees should try this inventive take on the classic.
Located across the road from Embankment underground station and Charing Cross, this hotel is ideally located for the London
Eye, Trafalgar Square, Houses of Parliament, Covent Garden and numerous galleries, theatres and shops. From glittering
chandeliers to contemporary design, this property reflects a proud heritage. For more than 100 years, The Royal Horseguards has
graced the banks of the Thames with its elegant, imposing presence. Its architectural heritage has earned it Grade I listed status,
and made it one of London’s most iconic buildings. It was home to the original Scotland Yard and used as a base for MI5 during
the First World War.
The hotel’s 280 bedrooms have been transformed into state-of-the-art luxury accommodation confirming its place among the
capital’s most luxurious and desirable hotels. The spacious rooms were elegantly decorated and feature dark furnishings and a
comfortable bed. It also offers a wonderful view across the Thames.
The restaurant possesses two AA Rosettes and offers a seasonal menu combining modern British and traditional French cuisines.
The Equus Bar serves cocktails which offer a nod to the hotel’s illustrious previous guests. A special mention goes to the buffet
breakfast which was one of the best we have tasted in a London hotel. - guoman.com
The Savoy, Westminster
The Savoy is located in Westminster and
was opened in 1889. The front entrance
stands out as one of the most striking
features in this 5 star hotel, as well as
the range of famous bars that accompany
this classic accommodation. Its stand out
bar, The American Bar, was one of the
first places to offer American cocktails
outside of the USA. The Savoy has also
recently undergone a major restoration
in order to boost standards at the already
impeccable hotel where Churchill and
co. often wined and dined in the superb
surroundings. The top suite available
at The Savoy, The Royal Suite, costs
£12000 a night for a stay; the ultimate in
luxury.
Bulgari Hotel, London
With its sleek design, vast subterranean
spa, and close proximity to the
department stores and boutiques of
Knightsbridge, this a popular choice with
those seeking the ultimate shop ‘n’ flop
experience. Chief among its facilities
is the spa, a sprawling yet intimate
complex of massage rooms, saunas,
steam rooms and relaxation areas,
augmented by a lounger-lined swimming
pool. Sette, the hotel’s sole restaurant,
is a sultry, contemporary space on the
ground floor serving flavoursome Italian
fare, with service to match. Splash out
on one of the signature Bulgari suites
for butler service and a separate steam
shower
Shangri-La Hotel at The
Shard
For London’s best views, it’s a nobrainer.
The Shangri-La inhabits floors
34-52 of the Shard, Western Europe’s
tallest building, so on a clear day you
can pretty much see the whole city
(unless you book one of the cheaper,
south-facing rooms). A less welcome
aspect of the impressive floor-to-ceiling
glass is that you can also see your
neighbours in their room, reflected in the
glass exterior. Awkward! (Don’t worry,
there are blinds for the timid.) Decor
can feel a little ‘Asian neutral’, but with
touches like in-room binoculars, it’s
obvious that the star of the show was
always going to be the vista.
The Goring, Westminster
The Goring was opened over 100 years
ago and was the first hotel in the world
that had a bathroom and central heating
in every room; they have since come a
long way! Nowadays, the hotel houses
guests like the Royal family who stayed
at The Goring in the build up to the
Wedding of Prince William and Kate
Middleton in 2011. This boutique hotel
has a mixture of 69 rooms and suites
which provide a quainter feel than some
of the larger 5 star hotels in London. The
bespoke Swarowski Chandeliers give a
wondrous touch of grandeur to guests
at The Dining Room restaurant which
serves true British cuisine at this London
landmark.
The Beaumont
You’d never guess that central London’s
most striking-looking hotel was
Selfridge’s former garage until a few
years ago. After humble beginnings, the
Beaumont is now, quiet literally, a work
of art, with Antony Gormley’s part-suite,
part-sculpture, ROOM, adorning its
front. Elsewhere decor is pure art deco
fantasia, courtesy of ace restaurateurs
Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, and
service manages to nail the fine line
between efficient and obsequious;
friendly and pseudo-matey. It’s a
convenient spot for Selfridges, too, and
the American bar is perfect for a postspree
old fashioned.
Ham Yard Hotel
The first thing you notice about Ham
Yard is just how big it is: a three quarters
of an acre horseshoe of central London
given over to 91 generously proportioned
rooms and 24 apartments, along with a
small collection of independent shops.
The second is just how little it feels
like a hotel; in part thanks to a drawing
room styled like a gazillionaire writer’s
living room, a bowling alley, a 190-seat
theatre and – because where would you
be without it? – an air-locked gym where
you can practise training at altitude.
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TOP CHOICE: THE BOUTIQUE OPTION
HOTELS: BEST OF THE REST
Artist Residence, Pimlico
Artist Residence London is the perfect choice for travellers
searching for a unique place to stay in London. Located a
5-minute walk from Pimlico, Victoria and Sloane Square, is
this ten bedroom independent hotel, restaurant and bar. The
fourth property in a hip hotel chain (Brighton, Cornwall and
Oxfordshire with a fifth opening in Bristol this year), the
original building, a public house, dates back to 1852 and has
been carefully restored over the last two years.
With interiors sourced from reclaimed materials and antiques
dealers you can tell everything has been carefully selected for
an uber cool aesthetic. From the exposed brick to the fireplaces,
wooden floorboards and vintage leather chairs.
Downstairs is the popular bistro-style restaurant, The
Cambridge Street Kitchen, which serves seasonal British
produce, but the highlight of our stay was the subterranean
basement bar, The Clarendon Cocktail Cellar. In a room
containing antique cast iron shelves, vintage lamps and
red leather bar stools our ‘mixologist’ served up cocktails
inspired by iconic films like Titanic, Lost in Translation,
and Anchorman. - artistresidence.co.uk
Chiltern Firehouse Hotel
Chances are you didn’t even know this
was a hotel, so deafening has been the
hype around the on-site restaurant it
shares its name with. The buzz is all
thanks to André Balaz, of LA’s Chateau
Marmont fame, who clearly knows
how to give the people what they want.
The 26 pleasingly retro rooms in this
late-Victorian fire station are a simple,
stylish treat, and the standard barrage
of notices about laundry costs and telly
channels are ditched in favour of a note
on the dresser saying simply: ‘Dial 0 for
anything’. We approve.
The Ritz
Does the most famous hotel in the world
need an introduction? Probably not,
but to step into the Ritz is still a semimagical
experience, transporting you
back to a time when Britain ruled the
world and someone had just invented
the train. An update in 1995 injected
some modernity and mod-cons into
the 1906-does-Louis XVI design, but
there’s a wonderful sense of old-school
decorum here, appropriate given the
sheer quantities of marble and 24 carat
gold leaf on site. Be warned: no jeans,
no trainers, and jackets for dining, please
– apart from at breakfast.
Rosewood London
Rosewood’s London outpost is an
elegant retreat offering luxurious and
stylish interiors with playful touches, a
serene spa, solid dining options and a
very popular cocktail bar, Scarfes. Upon
entering the hotel, guests are met with
effortless elegance, yet the place doesn’t
take itself too seriously, with cages of
fake birds and models of a bulldog and
bear by the lifts. Corridors are dark and
sultry, with eye-catching touches such as
a rose gold mirrored ceiling. Rooms are
spacious, and the Holborn Dining Room
is an Art Deco, brasserie-esque setting
with high-end touches such as oversized
flower displays and glam lighting. The
bar stocks more than 500 gins; taking
a recommendation (including tonic
pairing) is your best bet. The sommelier
also makes good suggestions.
Autumn 2021 103
TOP CHOICE: ELEGANCE AND CLASS
HOTELS: BEST OF THE REST
The Landmark
First opened in 1899, the Landmark London was the last of the
great Victorian Railway Hotels. Designed by Robert William
Ellis, well known for his Gothic revival style, the hotel stands
imposingly alongside Marylebone Road, just seconds from the
station. More recently, this historic hotel has been reborn as one
of the best luxury hotels in the capital: The Landmark London.
With 300 rooms, this large-scale hotel still manages, through a
combination of impeccable service and old-fashioned charm, to
feel like an intimate place to stay – you can easily forget you’re
sleeping beside one of the capital’s busiest roads. The hotel has
a spectacular central atrium with palm trees stretching up to a
glass roof and the elegant vibe extends to the on-site spa, with
an indoor pool and fitness centre.
The highlight of our stay, though, was lunch in The Winter
Garden, which constitutes an uplifting, glamorous place
for dining, the soaring ceilings conveying a wonderful sense
of space. Service was faultless and friendly, and the food
was mouth watering; there are also plenty of good wines to
compliment the expansive menu. - landmarklondon.co.uk
Autumn 2021 105
HOTELS: BEST OF THE REST
TOP CHOICE: BRITAIN MEETS BOMBAY
TOP CHOICE: SOUTH BANK RIVER VIEWS
The Lalit London
Crowne Plaza Albert Embankment
Lalit is well known in India, but this is its first British hotel.
Six years in the making, this transformed Grammar School
is the epitome of luxury and grandeur that captures the very
essence of India. The hotel’s central Tooley Street address
puts it squarely in the tourist zone, conveniently situated near
attractions like the Shard, London Dungeons, Shakespeare’s
Globe, and HMS Belfast.
Located on the South Bank of the Thames, the Crowne Plaza
Albert Embankment offers stunning views over the river,
including the Houses of Parliament and the London Eye. With
its convenient location, the property offers easy access to the
capital’s must-see destinations. Crowne Plaza is renowned
for its quality services and friendly staff, and the new hotel at
Albert Embankment lives up to expectations.
The Lalit is housed in the most stunning 180-year-old building
that has previously been host to St. Olave’s School. The colours
of the exterior are very much reminiscent of its previous
purpose: red brick paired with white detailing and large
windows, the kind that classrooms would have. It seems like a
sure-fire preview for a quintessentially English experience yet
inside, the gold-flecked tapestries and Hyderabadi chandeliers
deliver a far more cosmopolitan stay.
Boasting a combination of 70 rooms and suites, bedrooms are
full of modern, state of the art appliances and queen sized beds.
They are swathed in ochre silks and velvets, though it’s the
intricate headboards, embroidered with peacocks that gallantly
steal the show.
There are 142 bedrooms, including six suites, many with
unobstructed city and river views, via floor-to-ceiling windows.
The colour scheme marries muted tones with maroon and rust
hues, and a clean, comfortable design. All of the rooms and
suites are equipped with contemporary amenities, including
Smart TV’s, Nespresso Machines and mini-bars.
The jewel in its crown is a stunning 14th-floor Thames-side
sky terrace, which takes in views of the London Eye and the
Houses of Parliament. This is the location for Mezemiso,
a Lebanese-inspired restaurant and bar. It features a mix of
copper and metallic tones, while the glamour is amped up with
floor-to-ceiling glass windows, open fireplaces for colder nights
and a dedicated shisha and cigar terrace.
We enjoyed a fabulous meal at Baluchi, the fine dining
restaurant located in the Grand Hall of the building. With a
vaulted ceiling, chandeliers, original wooden flooring and
rich, opulent colours, the Grand Hall is certainly the piece de
resistance of The Lalit. The food itself takes its influences from
pan – India – meaning the inspiration is felt from every corner
of the country resulting in and exotic and vibrant dishes.
The Lalit is like a calm oasis in a very hectic part of London,
set back from the busy road and almost country-like with its
cleaned red brick exterior. The renovation of this building is
extremely impressive and if you’re looking for something a
little different, The Lalit should definitely be on your go-to list.
thelalit.com/the-lalit-london
Located on the ground floor is POTUS, the restaurant in which
we enjoyed a fabulous meal. With a nod to classic Americana,
each dish is designed to reflect different elements of the USA’s
cultural identity. While the cocktail menu takes its inspiration
from past US presidents whose portraits decorate the walls. The
menu was explained to us by the manager of the restaurant,
who made every dish sound exceptionally tempting and as
a result we ordered over half the menu and a fabulous bottle
of Sicilian red wine. We were impressed with the new takes
on firm favourites like the New England Clam Chowder and
Truffle Mac & Cheese. The restaurant utilises the finest and
freshest ingredients to offer the very best of American cuisine.
Guests can also enjoy free internet in all areas, a business
centre and the property’s host of recreational offerings ensures
you have plenty to do during your stay. At Crowne Plaza Albert
Embankment you will enjoy a great location and services
to match.
crowneplaza.com
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AFTERNOON TEA
AFTERNOON TEA
THE MILESTONE HOTEL, LONDON
Just a short walk from the Royal Albert Hall you’ll find The Milestone Hotel, a Grade-II
listed Victorian building that is renowned for its awe-inspiring original artwork, plush
furnishings, and exquisite cuisine.
A recognisable London landmark, The Milestone Hotel is conveniently
situated in Kensington Court, close to Notting Hill and
Knightsbridge. The beautiful leafy surroundings make for idyllic
park walks and picnics. To better protect staff and guests, they’ve
updated their cleaning and safety measures. They have partnered
with trusted medical professionals who offer PCR Covid-19
testing at the hotel, installed air purifiers in every public space and
introduced a new and sustainable self-disinfecting solution called
Leitha CleanCoat. You can trust you’ll be safe whilst you enjoy
your stay.
Rooms
With 43 deluxe guest rooms and 13 luxury suites, every room has
a distinct character that has been designed with both comfort and
creativity in mind. Decorated with curated artworks, plush furnishings,
fresh flowers and fine fabrics, no two rooms are alike, and
each has its own unique charm.
Food
experience in London. During our visit we also met Dananjaya
The English tradition of Afternoon Tea is at the very heart of The Silva from PMD Tea, suppliers to Red Carnation Hotels who
Milestone Hotel’s lunch menu and we were served ours in the Park explained the menu’s collection of teas including our choice,
Lounge. On offer were a delectable array of delights including The Planters Mistress, a refreshing golden tea with bergamot,
finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones topped with Devonshire orange and lemon peel.•
clotted cream and home-made preservatives, and a delicious range
“
of eclairs, tartlets, cupcakes and macarons. Central to the Royal Our verdict
Afternoon Tea is the golden tiara placed atop a raspberry, strawberry
and Valhrona chocolate mousse cube, which is coated in With exquisite views of Kensington Palace and Gardens,
royal purple and has a pistachio biscuit inside - it’s a sweet dish combined with the scrumptious Afternoon Tea menu
”
of
to die for. And don’t fret about dietary requirements - vegetarian traditional English scones and pastries, The Milestone Hotel
sandwiches and gluten-free breads, pastries and scones are all succeeds in offering a magical experience of aesthetic charm
available. You need not look elsewhere for the finest Afternoon Tea and fantastic food.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.milestonehotel.com
Autumn 2021 108 Autumn 2021 109
AFTERNOON TEA
PEGGY PORSCHEN
AFTERNOON TEA AT
LANESBOROUGH HOTEL, LONDON
Priding itself on providing London’s most unique afternoon teas, the award-winning Lanesborough
Hotel stands on the doorstep of Hyde Park and within walking distance of Harrods, Harvey Nichols
and London’s most exclusive shopping districts, Sloane Street and Knightsbridge.
Just a minute’s walk from Hyde Park Corner tube station or a
seven-minute stroll from Knightsbridge, The Lanesborough is celebrated
by local Londoners and staying guests alike. Home to the
Michelin-starred Céleste restaurant, the hotel is renowned for its
food and drink as much as its accommodation. Most notable are its
famous afternoon teas, but not to be overlooked is the lush Garden
Room - London’s best cigar lounge - and the distinguished Library
Bar - serving the capital’s most celebrated cocktails.
Unveiled after the hotel’s recent renovation, led by famed interior
designer Alberto Pinto, was the exclusive Lanesborough Club &
Spa. It offers access to internationally recognised experts in the
fields of mindfulness, fitness, beauty and wellness, and this year
the Good Spa Awards crowned it the Best Urban Spa.
Rooms
With round-the-clock butler service on offer for all 93 luxurious
suites and bedrooms, guests are assured their needs are well met
with great care, surprise and charm. Every room has been refurbished
with elegant interiors and responsive technology, including
in-room tablets and speedy Wi-Fi. Whilst you’re guaranteed fine
furnishings whichever room you choose to stay in, some come
with the bonus of picturesque views of Hyde Park.
Food
The Lanesborough is home to London’s most incredible afternoon
teas and earlier this year we visited to taste the deliciously devilish
Cruella afternoon tea, that paid homage to the Disney icon.
Now due to popular demand, the hotel is again collaborating with
world-famous bakery Peggy Porschen on their next experience.
Under the naturally illuminated domed glass roof of the Céleste,
with the fairy tale pink aesthetics of Peggy Porschen, guests can
expect a five-star experience consisting of stunning floral features,
pastel hues and exquisite tastes. Porschen held her first prestigious
pastry chef position at the hotel in 1999, after graduating from Le
Cordon Bleu’s ‘The Grand Diploma of Cuisine & Patisserie’. In
collaboration with her skilled pastry chef team and Lanesborough’s
charismatic Head Pastry Chef, Kevin Miller - runner-up
on this year’s series of Channel 4’s Bake Off: The Professionals
- Porschen has designed a truly unique afternoon tea dining
experience.
Expect a bespoke blend of Peggy Porschen and Lanesborough
creations alongside classic afternoon tea essentials, such as finger
sandwiches, scones, clotted cream and jam. The most delectable
sweet treats will include: Peggy’s Pink Pavlova; lemon and
elderflower tartlet; cherry and chocolate chip cupcake; salted caramel
and popcorn cupcake; and a slice of lemon, raspberry and
rose layer cake. Early reservation is strongly recommended so
you don’t miss out on what will almost certainly be the highlight
of any visit to The Lanesborough.•
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT:
www.oetkercollection.com/hotels/the-lanesborough
“ ”
Our verdict
The afternoon tea experience at the Lanesborough is unlike
any other and is not to be missed, whilst proximity to highend
shopping and the award-winning spa is just the cherry
on top of a luxury cake. The Peggy Porschen afternoon tea
starts from £54 per person, or £71 per person with a Belgravia
Bloom cocktail.
Autumn 2021 110 Autumn 2021 111
TOP 5
LONDON ROOFTOP BARS
ROOFTOP BARS
London weather is temperamental to say the least, but officially, autumn is on its way. Bathed in optimism, if not
sunshine, a number of London’s bars have swept their terraces, opened their rooftops and allocated top-floor space to
provide the capital with new drinking dens. On clear days they’re perfect spots for sun-downer drinks, so make the most of
these fleeting opportunities with our selection of London’s best rooftop bars.
Aqua Kyoto
The Aqua group are panorama
professionals. Aqua Spirit flies the flag for
the company back at their base in Hong
Kong, providing a dizzying lookout from
the 30th floor of a waterside skyscraper,
directly over the technicolour-tinted
harbour. Your surroundings aren’t quite
so impressive at Aqua Kyoto, but they’re
not half bad. Directly in front of the bar
there’s the grand sweep of Regent Street
and the domed, coral-green roof of the
Apple store – it’s surprising how pretty
these buildings actually are when you take
the time to appreciate them. On the terrace
itself, décor’s tastefully muted rather
than garishly overstated: slate tiles cover
the walls; ash-coloured banquettes ring
the open terrace. It’s a restraint that’s in
keeping with Kyoto’s Japanese theme.
The bar leads to an indoor Japanese restaurant decorated in silk and charcoal. The crowd throughout looks the part too. More
locals in the know than tourists clutching guidebooks, it’s full of after-work drinkers, wealthy-looking guys and good-looking
women. Things remain restrained in the restaurant, but can get lively on the rooftop. The focus on drinking – speciality cocktails
and sake – and occasional DJ turns – Café del Mar- and melodic house-style sets – means the atmosphere improves after the sun
goes down.
30 Argyll Street, W1B 3BR; open Mon-Sat 12pm-3pm and 6.30pm-1am - aquakyoto.co.uk/experience
The Rooftop
On the sixth floor of the Trafalgar Hotel, you can’t see very
far from here but you are directly above Trafalgar Square, and
the location’s a showstopper. Tilt your neck to see the National
Gallery; crane over the railing – carefully – and you can gaze
down on the turquoise pools of Trafalgar Square. St Martinin-the-Fields
church is visible too, and this is probably the
closest you’ll come to looking eye to eye at Admiral Nelson
as he stands sentry on his column. Best of all, however, is that
you can enjoy all these sights at your leisure as less-informed
visitors scramble around on ground level. As for the bar itself,
pink roses and pastel cushions come across as slightly mawkish
but otherwise its palette of dark chocolate and soft greys looks
the part.
2 Spring Gardens, Trafalgar Square, SW1A 2TS; open
Mon-Tues: Closed (available for private hire)
Wed-Thu: 12pm-1am Fri-Sat: 12pm-3am (last entry 1am)
Sun: 12pm-7pm - trafalgarstjames.com/the-rooftop
London:
Drink in the views as well as the cocktails
Autumn 2021 112 Autumn 2021 113
ROOFTOP BARS
Queen of Hoxton
You can follow your nose to the Queen of Hoxton’s rooftop
garden. On balmy evenings the hipster pub grills some of the
best jerk chicken in East London. Climb the stairs covered in
arty scrawlings and at the top you’ll find an oasis of fake turf
and decking, with views from the garden’s blooming window
boxes to the towers of the City. Lawn chairs and tables are
scattered around a water fountain and pergola dripping with
fairy lights. As well as lip-tingling chicken, the barbecue serves
up burgers and halloumi skewers while the bar stocks summery
tipples from cold beer to Briska pomegranate cider and selected
cocktails. As the sun sets, the seats are rearranged for a film
screening from the Rooftop Film Club. A series of classics,
from Casablanca to Robocop, are being shown, with popcorn
and sweets available to complete the experience. The audience
wears wireless headphones to block out any noise from the
city below. 1-5 Curtain Road, EC2A 3JX; Mon-Fri 12pm-9pm;
ticketed film nights run from 9pm-11pm approx.
- queenofhoxton.com/rooftop
Coq d’Argent
Lovely, leafy Coq d’Argent is one of the more salubrious
addresses in the City, its status and renown in no small part
due to its rooftop garden. From the well-tended lawns, you
can cast your eyes on Monument and the Gherkin and, from
about 5pm, batteries of bankers. This bar’s the height of
sophistication with an exceptional wine list, an extensive
range of champagnes and stodgy cigars available to slurp, sip
and smoke as applicable. If you’ve got time to linger during
the week and money to spare it’s worth dining here too.
The Coq d’Argent French restaurant is formal but reliable
and popular with those claiming expenses. A better way to
experience the setting is to visit during the weekend: the
City has quietened; the workers have retreated; the space has
opened up; and bargain-price set menus are available.
1 Poultry, EC2R 8EJ; Mon-Sun 11.30am-10pm.
- coqdargent.co.uk/at/terrace-garden-bank
Frank’s Café and Campari Bar
Frank’s does a sterling job of combining about 18 different
London trends in one. As well as being a rooftop bar it qualifies
as a pop-up – it’s been erected on a “temporary building”,
which in this case is a multi-storey car park. It’s also part of
an arts project (Peckham’s Bold Tendencies Scultpture Project
is responsible for its creation), and it’s got a corporate drinks
sponsor through the Campari association. Sorted. Given all
those different facets, it’s a refreshingly simple spot. A series
of weatherworn wooden benches and tables are covered by a
cherry-red canopy, yellow parking lines partition the cement
floor. The gritty setting is complemented by a hardy spirit, too.
Other venues may close if the weather turns, but here you’re
advised to simply bring coats and blankets if necessary. The
greatest lure away from the city centre could well be its cheap
drinks, though. Beers start at £1.50 while cocktails are no more
than £5 – prices that are unheard of in central London.
95a Rye Lane, SE15 4ST; Thu-Fri 11am-10pm - frankscafe.
org.uk
Autumn 2021 115
LONDON’S BEST
SPAS
Aman Spa at the Connaught
In the depths of The Connaught Hotel in Mayfair you will
find The Aman Spa at the Connaught, the first Aman Spa to
be built outside the world-famous Aman resorts. With only
five treatment rooms, it’s a place of simplicity, tranquility and
intimacy, where the focus is on you, your body and your mind.
The spa offers a host of specialist complementary therapies
and beauty services along with a subtly-lit ionised pool with
cascading granite water wall. The range of treatments take
inspiration from Chinese, the Americas, Indian and Thai
traditions. Make sure you leave time to enjoy a herbal infusion
while relaxing around the pool after your treatment.
- the-connaught.co.uk/aman-spa
SPAS
The SPA at the Dorchester
Exuding 1930s Art Deco glamour with a contemporary
edge, The Spa at The Dorchester feels luxurious and opulent
throughout, with nine spacious treatment rooms, a separate
mani-pedi suite and a stylish, sexy relaxation area. Signature
facials are by Carol Joy London, with other treatments by
skincare brand Kerstin Florian and Aromatherapy Associates.
In addition to the long list of specialised treatments, The
Spa at The Dorchester has a unique extra selling point - the
Spatisserie, where you can relax with some cake and a glass of
Champagne, continuing with the ethos that ‘a little bit of what
you love is good for you’.
- dorchestercollection.com
Agua Spa
The 10,000 square-foot agua spa at Sanderson in London’s
Fitzrovia is a dazzling all-white space providing pampering,
spiritual relief, and tranquillity. With walls of white, flowing
curtains, the 14 all-white treatment rooms, chill-out zone and
meditation beds creates a cloud-like ambiance with the sound
of running water added to the atmosphere. Try the Natura
Bisse signature treatment that analyses your skin and creates
a programme designed specifically for your skin or the Natura
Bisse Diamond Experience offering a multi-sensory cosmetic
lift using ingredients that penetrate into the deepest layers
of the skin, providing the firmness necessary to stimulate
regeneration and reinforces the skin’s natural defence system.
- morganshotelgroup.com
Ushvani Spa
An oasis of tranquillity in the heart of Chelsea, Ushvani is
one of London’s finest day spas offering the perfect blend of
spa indulgence and restorative therapies. There are specially
commissioned Malaysian artworks throughout the spa and
the aroma of ginger, nutmeg and pandan leaves creating an
authentic, relaxing experience. Spa treatments are available
for both male and female guests, with the spa pool and steam
facilities of the lower ground floor being reserved for ladies
only. Try the Kaffir lime reinvigorating ritual, which involves
an exfoliating scrub focusing on the shoulders and neck, a
soothing stomach massage to aid digestion and reflexology on
the feet.
- ushvani.com
AWAY Spa
6 floors up from the madness of Leicester Square lies an oasis
of calm in the form of the AWAY Spa at W London. The spa is
all-white and minimalist, with smooth, sleep lines. A team of
celebrity therapists are on hand to help you: from the signature
facials by Su-Man and advanced aesthetics of Dr. Wong, expert
tanning of James Harknett, to Ruthie Belle’s stunning eyelashes
and hair styling of Sergio Giannasso. Chose from an extensive
treatment menu including exfoliation, facials, manicures,
pedicures, waxing, massage, reflexology and tanning. Try the
chocolate facial and body using the anti oxidant binding and
nourishing properties of pure 100% cocoa.
- awayspalondon.com
Autumn 2021 116 Autumn 2021 117
HIGH-ROLLING
CASINOS
CASINOS
London is undoubtedly one of the gambling capitals of Europe, with dozens of fantastic locations spread across the city.
There are plenty of options for both high-rollers and newcomers alike, and we’ve compiled a list of the five must-visit
casinos on your next trip to the UK’s capital.
The Clermont Club, Mayfair
Only those with intimate knowledge
of London’s gambling community
will know about The Clermont Club,
with its discrete exterior masking one
of the best gambling experiences in
the country. Boasting a “discrete”
and professional service, this location
gives visitors access to a limited but
well-crafted selection of table games.
The only catch is that the casino is for
approved members only, with potential
new players having to go through an
extensive vetting procedure.
- mayfaircasinos.com
The Park Tower Casino,
Knightsbridge
Owned by world-renowned operator
Grosvenor, the Park Tower Casino
combines fine dining with a chic
European playing area. This location
prides itself on the luxury of its services,
with experienced staff delivering an
unrivalled atmosphere. In addition
to standard Roulette and Blackjack
offerings, this casino also runs an
innovative Stud Poker progressive
jackpot feature, giving players the
chance to take home major prize money.
- grosvenorcasinoslondon.com/
The Palm Beach Casino,
Mayfair
Set in the stunning Mayfair Hotel, The
Palm Beach Casino is arguably one
of the best in London. It offers cash
games seven nights a week, as well
as regular high-roller tournaments
throughout the year. The casino is open
24 hours a day and also takes bookings
for private tables, making it a great
choice for high-class poker parties.
There’s also a brand new dice table,
securing its place as one of the best
casinos in the UK. - thepalmbeach.co.uk
Aspers Casino, Stratford
Those looking for a slightly more
relaxed gambling atmosphere should
head over to the Westfield shopping
centre in Stratford, which is home to the
brand new Aspers Casino. This is the
UK’s very first super casino, offering
70 different tables, 150 slots and 150
video gaming terminals, as well as eight
sports betting terminals. As one of the
biggest locations in the UK, this has fast
become a huge attraction for tourists and
locals alike, making it definitely worth
a visit on your next trip to the Capital. -
aspersstratford.co.uk
The Casino at the Empire,
Leicester Square
This is one of the most exclusive casinos
in the city, with a prime location in the
heart of Leicester Square. Pledging to
bring “a touch of Vegas” to the UK,
this casino is home to a number of
hotly contested poker tournaments,
including the regular £25,000 guaranteed
cash race. The site also offers Pai
Gow, Baccarat (or Punto Banco) and
plenty of Blackjack, with visitors also
given access to two luxury bars.
- thecasinolsq.com
Autumn 2021 118
THEMED BARS
ICE, ICE
BABY!
Tucked away from the buzz of busy Regent Street, Ice Bar London
offers a chilly oasis in the heart of the city that’s uber cool.
By Martin Mason.
Photos: © Flavio Liotto
Autumn 2021 120 Autumn 2021 121
THEMED BARS
ICE, ICE BABY!
Ice Bar London is the UK’s only permanent ice bar, keeping things a cool -5 all year round. To keep things fresh, they
redesign the space each year, putting their team of artists to work to create an entirely new theme. This year, they’ve
dedicated the bar to all things London, so get ready to see the world’s greatest city in a whole new light, with loads of
cheeky nods to London life, including references to Banksy, Brexit, and Her Majesty The Queen.
Why go?
With temps rising and the sun glaring off of the city’s high-rises,
sometimes relief from the warm weather is necessary. Ice
Bar London is the perfect place to go for drinks if you want an
atmosphere that’s totally different from other offerings around
the city. Served in carved out blocks of ice, Ice Bar London’s
drinks are Instaworthy and if you’re hungry, there’s a separate
Fire Bar and restaurant with an impressive a la carte menu.
Who to go with
This is a fun place for groups visiting the city who want a
unique experience that isn’t totally cliche. It’s also a cool first
date option to break the ice (pun intended). Alternatively,
seasoned couples will find it interesting and a break from the
norm. The venue is also fit for families with mocktail options
available throughout the afternoon, so children are able to
tag along.
What to drink
With clever names that are completely on theme, every drink
sounds good. Serpents Venom is a tropical holiday in a glass
with bourbon and a passion fruit twist that makes it stand out.
The God of Thunder is a sweet vodka-based treat, while the the
Kara Colada mixes coconut with rum. •
IceBar London
Tucked away from the buzz of busy Regent
Street, Ice Bar London offers a chilly oasis in the
heart of the city that’s uber cool.
”
IceBar London, London’s coolest bar, is the best
place to chill out in the capital.
IceBar sessions are 40 minutes each and the venue
is also available for hire.
“Our verdict
The details
Prices for standard tickets include a cocktail, cape
and gloves are £14.50 for slots from Sunday-Monday
before 5:45 pm. They go down to £13.50 if
booked in advance. Prices at all other times start
at £16.50, rising with upgrades and packages.
Visit: icebarlondon.com
Autumn 2021 122
Autumn 2021 123
THEMED BARS
FLIGHT OF
FANCY
Flight Club’s newest location in London’s Victoria
takes the humble game of darts to the next level.
By Martin Mason.
Photos: © Flavio Liotto
Autumn 2021 124 Autumn 2021 125
THEMED BARS
FLIGHT OF FANCY
Get in the zone, mind focused, elbows straight, ready to let go – and explode on the dartboard with
style. Yes, this isn’t your average bar. This is Flight Club, where guests can book a session to
throw darts in an ‘oche’ – a small private booth – taking part in a series of games.
Flight Club’s first two bars (in Holborn and Shoreditch) have
taken the pastime to a luxurious new level, with a twist of technology
to smooth things along. In their glam wood-panelled venues,
each board sits under the gaze of three precision cameras,
which collectively identify the location of each dart thrown with
sub-millimetre accuracy. Already well known for their delicious
pizza making, innovative cocktail shaking and electric atmosphere
– the team at Flight Club are old hands at delighting their
guests with exceptional and unforgettable social experiences.
And now, the Social Darts phenomenon has arrived in west London,
with a landmark site at the heart of Victoria. With 18 oches
(darts playing areas), a spectacular bar and a beautiful outdoor
terrace – Flight Club Victoria has all the fun of the fairground
like you’ve never seen before. With a variety of challenges available,
darting has never been this fun. You can play each game as
little or as often as you like, losing track of time and completely
losing yourself in the general atmosphere.
The food, which can be ordered straight to the oche, is fast,
delicious and reasonable with an average main coming out at
£10. There are two menus: one for lunch and another for sharing,
based around salads, burgers, fries, pizzas and meat-based dishes.
Whether you’re making the most of your weekend at their epic
Brunch Social or watching the action unfold from the bar, you’ll
be thrilled you came along for the ride! •
Flight Club:
Order delicious drinks and food from your oche!
Flight of fancy:
Flight Club’s newest location
in London’s Victoria
“Our verdict
Flight Club expertly combines a comforting food
experience with the social niceties of darts,
”
all
amongst a warm and relaxed atmosphere and
welcoming staff. It definitely hits the target.
Get there
6, Sir Simon Milton Square, London, SW1E 5DJ
Book
Flight of fancy:
Flight Club’s www.flightclubdarts.com/london newest location in London’s Victoria
Autumn 2021 126
Autumn 2021 127
CITY GUIDE
PRAGUE
Visually, Prague is in many ways impossible to improve. The Stare
Mesto and Mala Strana districts, either side of the Vltava River, together
form one of Europe’s best preserved old city centres, with virtually every
street an uplifting symphony of cobbles and extravagant Renaissance and
baroque architecture.
A GUIDE TO THE BEST SIGHTS AND
PLACES TO EAT, DRINK AND SLEEP IN
THE CZECH CAPITAL
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
Written By Martin Mason and Holly Cannon
Planning: Sophie Bailey
Photography: Julie Paice
Autumn 2021 128 Autumn 2021 129
TOP FIVE SIGHTS:
CITY GUIDE PRAGUE
Charles Bridge
For much of the day, the 14th-century pedestrian connection
linking Stare Mesto and Mala Strana is thronged with buskers,
beggars, caricaturists and tourists. So, if you can, stroll its
length late at night or before breakfast, when you’ll have just
the bridge’s blackened statues for company and an unimpeded
view of the castle etched on the skyline. In the warmer months
you can climb up into the old bridge towers.
Prague Castle
Encompassing a series of interconnected courtyards, lovely
gardens, the Gothic St Vitus’s Cathedral, the medieval
cottages of Golden Lane (where Kafka briefly lived), plus
many other historic buildings and several museums, the
massive complex requires half a day to do it justice. Don’t
miss the Story of Prague Castle, a permanent large-scale
exhibition that opened last year in the Old Royal Palace.
During the day, the castle is always mobbed. To truly
appreciate its haunting Kafkaesque quality, return in the
evening. You do not need a ticket to access the courtyards,
which stay open to midnight (11pm in winter).
St Nicholas Church
This is the grandest of Prague’s many baroque churches and
was built in the 1730s. It has an over-the-top interior and
monumental dome decorated with hundreds of golden cherubs,
swooning virgins and elaborate trompe l’oeil frescoes.
Strahov Monastery
Other than to escape the castle-going crowds, the prime reason
for visiting the Premonstratensian monastery is to gawp at
the library – its frescoed and booked-lined Philosophical and
Theological halls are glorious, ornate wonders. Elsewhere,
there is an impressive display of religious art. Return to the
city centre via the idyllic orchards below the complex.
Jewish Museum
Prague’s Jewish quarter, the Josefov, is now an elegant
neighbourhood of art nouveau buildings and designer shops
and cafés. The museum is spread over five synagogues
dotted around the quarter, only one of which – the Old-New
Synagogue – is still used for religious services. The rest are
exhibition centres and contain a huge collection of artefacts
that movingly tell the history and persecution of the Czech
Jews. It also includes the Old Jewish Cemetery, a forest of
12,000 lopsided tombstones squashed into an improbably
small plot of land. Try to visit first thing: by mid-morning,
everywhere gets swamped by chattering tour groups.
Autumn 2021 131
TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS:
Kampa Park
Opened in 1994, this is one of Prague’s most reliable (and
expensive) top-end restaurants and seems to have been visited
by virtually every celebrity that has visited the city, from Mick
Jagger and Johnny Depp to Bill and Hillary Clinton. Come, as
they do, for beautifully presented Mediterranean-flavoured
dishes, the prime riverside location overlooking Charles Bridge
(alfresco dining possible), and unusually excellent service. www.
kampagroup.com
CITY GUIDE PRAGUE
Palffy Palac
This has one of Prague’s most romantic dining-rooms, with
twinkling candelabras and gilded chandeliers, inside one
of Mala Strana’s enormous baroque palaces. Though the
Czech/multinational food is rather over-complicated, the
surroundings are unbeatable. A terrace (open in summer)
has beautiful views over the castle walls. www.palffy.cz
Hergetova Cihelna
This is the less starchy and more affordable sister restaurant
to Kampa Park (see above). Although it does not attract the
big names in the same way, it is hugely popular with Prague’s
young affluent crowd. Also in a prime spot by the Vltava,
with an open-air riverside terrace, its menu concentrates on a
hybrid of French and Italian dishes (foie gras pizza, anyone?),
but there are some Czech options, too, such as potato soup
and suckling piglet, as well as decent burgers and stir fries.
www.kampagroup.com
Kolkovna
The art nouveau-styled Kolkovna is as close as Prague gets
to a gastropub. It’s a stylish version of a traditional beer hall
and a good choice for sampling classic Czech fare, such as
pheasant thighs and boar chops. Portions are on the hearty
side and the goulash soup, served in a hollowed out loaf
(£1.60), is a meal in itself. Service is friendly and brisk.
www.kolkovna.cz
U Medvidku
This is the real McCoy, a classic Prague beer hall that
offers a great night out in authentic surroundings. Though
its cavernous dining-rooms are packed with tourists, many
of the communal tables are occupied by locals, who have
probably been eating here for years. The traditional Czech
dishes – venison meatballs, pork neck with cabbage – are
good, filling and incredibly cheap: a plate of goulash and
dumplings costs just £2.50. www.umedvidku.cz
Autumn 2021 132
Prague is famous for its
tasty Trdelnik pastries.
Autumn 2021 133
TOP FIVE HOTELS:
Mandarin Orient
Opened in 2006 but already one of Prague’s top five-star
hotels, this heavily modernised complex dates back to the 14th
century, when it was a monastery. Its strengths are its quiet
but central Mala Strana location, faultlessly obliging service,
super spa (built over the visible remains of a Gothic church)
and supremely comfortable bedrooms. www.mandarinoriental.
com/prague
CITY GUIDE PRAGUE
Aria
This stylish, small-scale Mala Strana hotel, which spreads
through three Baroque buildings, has a musical theme.
Bedrooms are designed according to musical genres
(classical, opera, contemporary, jazz), and each comes
with appropriate tunes loaded on to a computer. There
is a superbly stocked music library, and a well-informed
“musical director” to advise on, and fix tickets for, concerts.
www.ariahotel.net
Maxmilian
This good-value hotel was designed by a leading Czech architect,
Eva Jiricna. Bedrooms are sleek and Cubist influenced, while
public areas, such as the glass-walled library and drawing room
with a help-yourself honesty bar system, are striking yet relaxing.
The location, on a cobbled square on the edge of the Old Town’s
upmarket Josefov quarter, is excellent. www.maximilianhotel.
com
Dum U Velky Boty
The discreet establishment, whose name translates as the
House of the Big Boot (there is no sign) is one of Prague’s
best B&Bs. Occupying an ancient building on a cobbled
Mala Strana backstreet, it offers a dozen bedrooms full of
antiques and art, many of which are family heirlooms of
the charming owner, Jan Rippl. The good breakfasts can
be eaten communally with other guests if you wish. www.
dumuvelkeboty.cz
Castle Steps
An unusual, dynamically run set-up, spread over six buildings
that are dotted along Nerudova and Uvoz streets, the main drags
through Mala Strana up to the castle. The accommodation ranges
from simple rooms with shared bathrooms to vast apartments with
their own kitchens. Standards are higher than the low rates suggest
and many units have enormous character, as well as gorgeous
views over Petrin hill. www.pragueroom.com
Autumn 2021 134
CITY GUIDE PRAGUE
Shopping
Along with moody Kafka T-shirts, Czech-made glass and
wooden toys are good buys. The fanciest Bohemian crystal,
used by royalty, is at Moser (main branch at Na Prikope 10).
For exquisite contemporary glass objects created by leading
Czech designers, visit Material at U Luzickeho seminare 7.
Blue Praha sells striking but much more affordable modern
glass. For wooden tops, mobiles, puzzles and figures on springs
and wheels, head for branches of Manufaktura and the daily
outdoor market on Havelska. A good shop for string puppets is
Obchod Pod Lampou, at U Luzickeho seminare 5.
Night Life
On any night there are any number of classical performances in
churches and fabulously ornate concert halls such as the neoclassical
Rudolfinum and art nouveau Obecni dum.
The agency Bohemia Ticket has full details of forthcoming
concerts, and online booking, on www.bohemiaticket.cz, as
well as helpful staff at its office at Male namesti 13. Prague
also has a strong jazz tradition.
One of the best venues is U Maleho Glena (Karmelitska 23;
www.malyglen.cz). For those who want to party, Radost FX
(Belehradská 120; www.radostfx.cz), a cafe/lounge/nightclub,
has long been one of the most fashionable places to head for.
Bars & Cafes
For a traditional Czech pub, head for U Cerneho vola
(Loretanske namesti 1), just above the castle, and Baracnicka
rychta (Trziste 23), on a Mala Strana backstreet. Local drinkers
outnumber tourists in both establishments.
Prague has several splendid grand Viennese-style coffee
houses. Kaverna Obecni dum (Namesti Republiky 5) is an
opulent art nouveau café of ballroom proportions, where they
wheel around a trolley laden with cakes.
The art deco Slavia (Smetanovo nabrezi 2) is one of Prague’s
great focal points: now full of courting couples and shoppers,
famously Vaclav Havel used to drink here.
One of the best post-Revolution coffee shops is The Ebel Coffee
House, on cobbled Tyn, the old town’s prettiest courtyard. For
a trendy cocktail bar try chic, buzzy Tretter’s (V kolkovne 3),
or the Blue Light (Josefska 1), a funky, ex-pat hangout with
graffiti-covered walls.
Getting There
Flights to Prague start from £35 each way.
See www.britishairways.com.
Currency
The currency in Prague is the Czech Crown (czk).
Czech bank notes are issued in the following denominations:
100/200/500/1000/2000/5000. Some hotels, shops and
restaurants accept Euros as well, but many only take Czech
Crowns. 1 Czech Koruna equals 0.035 British Pound.
Autumn 2021 137
20 JOURNEYS
TO CHANGE
YOUR LIFE
THE POST PANDEMIC
BUCKET LIST
The people we’ll see, the places we’ll go, and all the once possible, now
restricted adventures we’ll have once again! We have compiled ideas for 20
journeys that could change your life, all you need to do is go online, follow the
research and plan your adventure.
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
Written By Martin Mason and Holly Cannon
Planning: Sophie Bailey
Photography: Julie Paice
Autumn 2021 138 Autumn 2021 139
20 JOURNEYS
1SPEND SIX MONTHS
EXPLORING ASIA
Sometimes you seriously need to get
away, and holidays don’t come much
longer than a 28-week ‘Ultimate
Asia’ adventure. Starting in London
and taking a winding route east to
Bangkok, an epic group trip that
crosses 12 countries, ticking off a
score of see-before-you-die sights
including the Pyramids, Petra, Jaipur,
Great Wall and Angkor Wat. This trip
will cost you upwards of £6,465 per
person, including accommodation,
transport and most meals. You’ll
likely travel mostly by purposebuilt
expedition vehicle with only
42 nights spent in hotels. For most
of the time you’ll sleep in tents on
campsites or out in the wilds. You
could even add an extension to your
journey that takes you south from
Darwin to Sydney via the Outback.
2 3 4
HAVE A METROSEXUAL
MAKEOVER IN MIAMI
Are you the type of man who likes
to embrace your feminine side? Or
maybe you know a bloke who needs
a bit of sorting out? Available at
selected Loews Hotels in New York,
Miami and Los Angeles, the Metro
Man package promises to make a
man ‘more dashing and attractive’
in just 24 hours. That could be a
tall order, which explains why so
much gets packed into one day. The
improvements start at check-in when
guests are handed essential manly
items such as a book on etiquette and
a cocktail shaker. The hotel chef then
provides a two-hour, palate-refining
meal with advice on cooking,
wine and mixing drinks, while the
concierge chips in with some advice
on how to conduct yourself socially.
Next comes a grooming session,
including a manicure, haircut and
shave, then a consultation with a
personal shopper from Barneys or
Saks Fifth Avenue to sort out the
wardrobe.
GET FIT IN THE WILDS
OF COSTA RICA
For something more radical, try an
intensive work-out on a Kenyan
beach with Wild Fitness. It was set
up by Tara Wood, a personal trainer,
who believes in promoting wellbeing
through natural movements rather
than working individual muscles in
isolation, as some gym machines
and exercise classes do. The idea is
to awaken the agile animal inside us
by recalling the primal movements
that helped us evolve as a species.
Get ready to squat, bend, push,
pull, twist, lunge and run. This is
not a boot camp, and the open-toall
activities are supportive rather
than competitive, with posture
assessments, yoga and nutritional
advice included. Coffee and alcohol
are discouraged but dispensed
without disapproval if required.
CLIMB K2
(WELL, ALMOST)
Things look different when you’re
high. At 8,616 metres, K2 is the
second highest peak in the world,
and a trek through the mountainous
wilds of northern Pakistan to see it
up close will certainly blow away
the mental cobwebs. It’s also an
arduous Grade 1 expedition, which
means long, hard days and camping
above the snowline, with strenuous
trekking experience essential. A
25-day expedition in July climbing
the Gondogoro La Pass then
descending to K2 base camp will cost
you upwards of £2,295 per person
including flights and
accommodation.
Autumn 2021 140
20 JOURNEYS
5STRETCH YOUR
MIND ON A SPANISH
MOUNTAIN TOP
Once we went on holiday just
to take a break. Now you can
sort out your whole life while
slopping on the sun cream. In
the Picos de Europa, northern
Spain, you could go on a lifeplanning
holiday in conjunction
with The Big Stretch. Available
in May, June and September,
they are aimed at ‘busy
achievers who need to step
back’. Group size is limited
to eight, combining intensive
thinking sessions with uplifting
mountain walks. A follow-up
Keep Stretching programme of
six one-hour sessions is also
available.
6
WRITE A BODICE-
RIPPER IN A PINK
SCOTTISH CASTLE
Over the years, ‘Writing
Romance’ courses have been
run at the suitably pink Castle of
Park, near Aberdeen, which sits
in secluded parkland and comes
with a grand drawing room as
well as inspirational four-poster
beds and stags’ heads on the
walls. Courses have been led by
prominent romance writers like
Marina Oliver, author of more
than 4o historical romances.
Dingle Writing Course also
typically take place on autumn
weekends at a seaside retreat in
Inch, overlooking Dingle Bay in
Kerry.
7
8
STRUT YOUR LATIN
FUNKY STUFF
Combine tango and Spanish lessons
in Buenos Aires with Caledonia
Languages. Language lessons in the
morning are followed by dancefloor
instruction at night. Based in the
Barrio Norte district, the tango
sessions include talks and videos
explaining the nuances of this most
passionate of dances, along with
visits to milongas (tango gatherings).
Similar holidays are available
learning salsa in Cuba and Spain.
Dance Holidays offer a week’s line
dancing on a Mediterranean cruise
ship, from upwards of £599 per
person including flights, meals and
accommodation.
HIKE TO THE TOUGHEST
TRAIL IN EUROPE
Crossing the rocky spine of Corsica
from Calenzana to Conca, the GR20
is considered the most challenging
long-distance footpath in Europe.
For most of the 170km trail you walk
above 1,000m in pine forests, over
rocky ridges, past glacial lakes amid
mountain peaks. Walks Worldwide
offer guided group tours. To do it
yourself (it’s cheaper but you’ll carry
your own rucksack), buy a copy of
GR20 Corsica - The High Level
Route.
Autumn 2021 142
9CHANGE CHILDRENS
LIVES IN GUATEMALA
‘I’ve never seen anyone so pleased
to see two packets of Blu-Tack,’
Steph Thorns records in her online
diary about working with children
in Guatemala. The life of this
former hospital project manager was
transformed after she volunteered to
work with indigenous communities
near Antigua, helping in rural
schools where there would otherwise
be no formal education. Steph has
since retrained as a community
health nurse with a view to going
back. Her trip to Guatemala was
organised through the charitysupport
organisation Global Vision
International. Side benefits include
the chance to learn Spanish and
experience South American life. Also
worth considering other possibilities,
including working with a radio
station in Ghana and renovating
schools in Tanzania.
THE ROLLERS
IN HAWAII
Surfing might be a lifestyle, but it
10RIDE
often begins with a holiday. For
an idea of the way it can change
people and what it’s like to be a
newcomer, track down a copy of
Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year
on the California Coast by Daniel
Duane (Lonely Planet). Hawaii is
where the best waves are, rising
off the coasts of Oahu and Maui
to heights of 70 feet. You’ll need
at least 10 years of regular surfing
before you can master the crazy
rollers of Waimea Bay. In winter
the waves have to be seen to be
believed but in summer, even
novices can try their luck. Other
destinations include Woolacombe.
20 JOURNEYS
A SAINT
TO THE ANIMALS
INTO THE TURKISH IN THE KALAHARI DESERT
WILDERNESS
Sitting in the Kalahari desert
11FOLLOW
12TALK
Follow in the footsteps of St Paul
counting meerkats is one of your
through the wilds of Turkey’s
options among the 140 scientific
Taurus and Sultan mountain
and conservation projects organised
ranges, with ancient ruins and
worldwide by the charity Earthwatch.
dramatic peaks and canyons
On a two-week expedition to the
along the way. A new 500km
Kuruman river in South Africa
footpath traces the apostle’s
you can help ecologists study the
missionary journey from Perge
exceptionally co-operative lifestyles
on the Mediterranean coast to
of these mongoose-like creatures.
Yalvac, near Antioch, overlooking
Volunteers stay in thatched huts,
the Anatolian plateau. It’s been
working in small teams, and there’s
created and waymarked by
plenty of spare time to appreciate
Englishwoman Kate Clow. Even
the wonder of the desert. Other
more ambitious is the 1,000
expeditions available include joining
mile Via Francigena linking
marine naturalists on a 39ft yacht
Canterbury and Rome. This
studying basking sharks in the Inner
is a DIY pilgrimage - no tour
Hebrides, helping conservationists
operators run packages - but you
monitor macaws in the Peruvian
can find route maps, information
Amazon, and tracking zebras by
on accommodation and support.
four-wheel drive vehicle in the
Samburu district of Kenya as part of
an initiative to limit their conflict with
human activities.
THE
TRIBES OF LOAS
Until recently the heart of Asia’s
14MEET
opium growing triangle, northern
Laos is the HQ for the Unesco
Namtha ecoproject to provide jobs
for cash-strapped farmers and ethnic
minorities, and many of Laos’s
68 ethnic tribes live in this area.
Himalayan Kingdoms was the first
UK tour operator to plug into the
project by pioneering a series of
trekking and meet-the-villagers
tours. From the towns of Luang
Namtha and Meung Sing you trek
with local guides up into the hills
and valleys to remote villages.
Among the tribes are the animist
Akhas, whose teenage sons sleep in
their own huts, to which the girls are
brought for trial sex and marriage;
the Black Hmong, identified by their
black clothing, who build stilted
villages on high mountain ridges;
and the Lenten people, who wear
indigo and settle in longhouses in the
valleys.
YOUR HOUSE
FOR A LUXURY VILLA
‘Beautiful three-bedroom house
13SWAP
offered in the rural retreat of Mercatale
near Cortona in Arezzo. Comes with
1,000-year-old olive trees in the garden,
brand new pool, stunning panoramic
views, fantastic local restaurants ...’
Oh yes, all that could be yours by
just swapping homes with the owner.
If you dream of retiring to Italy or
downshifting to that Caribbean beach,
it pays to try a place out first. Holiday
exchanges for a fortnight or more are a
good way to do this. If you’re worried
about the Osbournes moving in, sign
up with a home-exchange agency that
will ease the matchmaking process
for an annual membership fee. The
basic premise is not unlike a TV reality
show - you swap your life, right down
to your bedsheets, for someone else’s.
The main advantage is that you slot
straight into neighbourhood life and
can save money when compared to a
conventional holiday, particularly if you
have children. Note that if you want the
Italian idyll listed above you’re more
likely to be in luck if you’re offering a
Mayfair penthouse than a Basildon semi.
A DESERT
NOMAD IN JORDAN
A BEACH
Forget fake ‘Bedouin’ feasts and
BUM IN GOA
15BECOME
phoney folklore. ‘Riding in Jordan
- The Bedouin Experience’ is a tour 16BECOME
With the average house in the UK worth
which will show you the desert as around £284,029, there’s a tempting
it really is: harsh, bleak, forbidding case to sell up and live like a king or
and magical. Setting out from Wadi queen elsewhere. Palolem, in Goa,
Rum on spirited Arab horses (riders India, is a palm-fringed crescent beach
should be reasonably experienced where you can rent a thatched hut with
and confident) you’ll head south bamboo beds, bathroom and veranda,
towards the Saudi border, exploring from around £15 a night. With meals
deep canyons flanked by immense next to nothing locally, you could sit
boulders and towering sandstone pretty for 30 years of yoga, curry and
rock fortresses, edging your way sunsets. Other dream-inducing options
along sheer cliffs and galloping include a guesthouse in the medina at
among the dunes and flats on the Essaouira, Morocco, or wooden
best racecourse in the world. En beach huts on Zanzibar.
route you’ll see Bedouin families
who still live as nomads in the desert
with their goats and camels, as well
as historic landmarks described by
Lawrence of Arabia in The Seven
Pillars of Wisdom. Tents for the sixday
trek are fairly basic, and most
holidaymakers prefer to sleep under
the stars with meals served from a
traditional large communal plate.
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17 18 19
PEDAL ACROSS
VIETNAM & RAISE
CASH FOR OXFAM
Cycle through Vietnam to
Cambodia, safe in the knowledge
that you are not really having
a holiday - you’re working for
charity. You’ll find a wide variety of
challenges where you can combine
exotic foreign travel with raising
money for UK charities. But be
prepared: you’ll cycle at least 80km
a day. Other sponsored adventures
with other charities include a hike
in Egypt and a ‘very challenging’
four-day, 100km run along the
Great Wall of China.
TAKE AN ICEBREAKER
TO THE NORTH POLED
So what did you do with your life?
Well, I did make it to the North
Pole ... Take the icebreaker Yamal,
voyaging north from Murmansk
through the Barents Sea to reach
90° North six days later. This
is one of the few vessels in the
world powerful enough to plough
through five-metre-thick ice to
reach the top of the world. A 16-
day cruise starting in Helsinki will
cost you upwards of £8,462. For
something more spiritual, head
down to Antarctica with its virgin
landscapes and unsullied wildlife.
CAST AWAY ON
CRUSOE’S ISLAND
The Islas Juan Fernandez, 450 miles
off Chile’s Pacific Coast, was where
Alexander Selkirk, the inspiration
for Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe,
was abandoned in 1704 and eked out
a precarious living for four years. It’s
now somewhat easier to reach and
leave, though few Westerners get to
this remote spot. The three islands are
now officially named Robinson Crusoe,
Alejandro Selkirk and Santa Clara, and
in 1977 the whole archipelago of Juan
Fernandez was declared a Biosphere
Reserve, protecting it from further
development. Only around 500 people
live here, mainly fishermen; but they
welcome visitors and will show them
the hero’s legendary cave and take them
trekking up to El Yunque, the island’s
highest (915m) peak where Selkirk lit
his signal fires.
20 JOURNEYS
20
on an entirely different, practically stone-age, world and may put your
FREAK OUT IN PAPUA NEW GUINEA
The Goroka Cultural Show is a ritual gathering where over 100
fabulously feathered tribes come in from the highlands. It’s a window
quest for the latest iPod into perspective. A fully escorted 10-day tour
costs at least £4,295 per person including flights, transfers and most
meals, with the rest of the trip spent touring remote mountain and
jungle lodges and sailing on the Sepik river.
The majestic Galleria Colonna houses masterpieces of
absolute excellence painted by leading Italian artists.
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IN FOCUS:
THE CARIBBEAN
This sprawling archipelago of tropical islands is a treasure chest
of diverse landscapes, rich culture and undeniable beauty just waiting
to be explored. But where to start?
BARBADOS: PARADISE FOUND
SOMETHING UNIQUE
ISLAND HOPPING
ST LUCIA HOTELS
SECLUDED ISLANDS
HOLA HAVANA
...page 146
...page 152
...page 154
...page 156
...page 164
...page 168
Written By Martin Mason
Planning: Sophie Bailey
Photography: Julie Paice
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
VIVA VARADERO
...page 176
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BARBADOS
PARADISE FOUND
Martin Mason tastes the sweet life in Bridgetown, Barbados
The original Caribbean holiday island — and the most popular for Brits
by a margin — Barbados does that crucial mix of good food, great hotels
and gorgeous beaches better than any other. The most famous of those
beaches are on the west coast, north of Bridgetown, the bit they call the
Platinum Coast — because that’s the kind of credit card you may need to
stay there. The south coast is less glitzy, but has beautiful beaches and a
more authentic vibe.
Brownes Beach, Bridgetown:
Horses from the Garrison Savannah are given their early morning wash
Autumn 2021 150 Autumn 2021 151
SWEETFIELD MANOR
BRIDGETOWN,
BARBADOS
BARBADOS: PARADISE FOUND
When we head off for exotic climes my family and I are
self-confessed lovers of large, fancy hotels but often
the experience can lack authenticity and atmosphere.
Every now and then we get the opportunity to experience
something different. Discreet characterful venues, where luxury
means good company with a unique atmosphere in a quiet,
gorgeous property in a sumptuously serene setting. Welcome to
Sweetfield Manor.
As part of our 10-day visit to Barbados, we stayed here for 5-nights and
experienced the kind of friendly, intimate comfort that large hotels seem unable
to offer. In other words, a place so magical it goes beyond luxury. Here, you don’t
check in; you’re considered a house guest.
Sitting at the top of a hill, Sweetfield Manor is a mere 15 minutes walk from
the historic Garrison Savannah area, in Bridgetown Barbados. It’s a little off
the beaten path, which makes it all the more special when you eventually find
it. Sweetfield Manor is a unique boutique hotel offering exclusive comfort in a
relaxing atmosphere. In short, it’s one of a kind.
Style & character
Sweetfield Manor is centrally located, perfectly situated within lush tropical
surroundings, atop a hill which affords spectacular views over the south coast
of Barbados. Built in the early 1900s, the building is a white-painted, shuttered
plantation house. The décor is a
delightful mix of English provincial and
laid-back Barbadian charm. Guest rooms
and suites combine traditional charm and
local art with unabashedly 21st century
touches: think plush pillows, impossibly
soft linen, flat-screen TV’s, huge rain
showers and L’Occitane cosmetics.
There’s no Spa to speak of but, situated
in the Manor’s lush garden, there’s a
small ‘healing room’ offering manicures,
pedicures and massages. Treatments to
the sound of hummingbirds.
We absolutely loved the lagoon-style
swimming pool, hidden by a hedgerow
of lush, tropical foliage. During
breakfast on the terrace, you’ll probably
see Green Monkeys frolicking in the
trees and you will definitely witness
the resident peacocks strutting royally
across the lawn. Waking up to them each
morning was a real highlight.
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BARBADOS: PARADISE FOUND
Rooms
The hotel offers 10 luxury bedrooms in 3 categories :
Plantation, Courtyard and Garden Rooms. Located in
the original main house are three beautifully maintained
Plantation Rooms, which stay true to the original design
of the Manor. Sweetfield also has 3 garden cottages
overlooking the pool. These outside buildings of the
original plantation house have been tastefully converted
and all include a covered patio complete with tables and
chairs.
Surprisingly you won’t find any telephones in the room.
No calling down to ‘reception’, or phoning for room
service. Here, you’re pretty much in charge of your own
stay – a total home from home. This doesn’t mean staff is
non-existent. On the contrary, when you need a helping
hand, someone warm and welcoming magically appears.
Forget smart cards, room keys here are reassuringly
traditional and akin to something that a pirate of the
Caribbean may use to open a treasure chest.
Our rooms were unique and well-equipped: King bed,
contemporary bathroom (with fluffy towels and Bath
Robes) and four poster bed. Whatever room you choose,
you’re sure to sink into a deep and blissful slumber.
Staying here is about immersing yourself in Caribbean
tranquillity, trekking down to the beach and waking up
to the sun warming your terrace. Sweetfield Manor is a
place to completely rethink your whole concept of a hotel
stay – mind, body and soul. It’s also the perfect backdrop
for weddings. Don’t worry; Sweetfield guests can still use
all the facilities during a wedding. Just remember to raise a
glass if the bride walks by.
Food & Drink
Food here isn’t taken lightly. It’s an event. Throughout
the week chef transformed our understanding of what
Breakfast was and it often run to several courses. There
are smoothies galore and fruit plates aplenty. For guests
needing a more hearty start, dishes such as scrambled
eggs and bacon with plantain are served up. If you’re still
hungry (or not), he would rustle up a plate-rattling ‘deserts’
– anyone for a banana crêpe. Lunch and dinner are not
generally included, but chef will gladly prepare a private
dinner with a day’s notice. You can also request a picnic
bag for blissful days on the beach. •
“ ”
Our verdict
Totally unique, warm and wonderful.
A homely hangout at the top of a hill, beautiful view,
20 minutes stroll to the ocean.
Just go, you won’t regret it.
Getting there
British Airways has return flights to Barbados:
www.ba.com
Book Direct at:
sweetfieldmanor.com
Sweetfield Manor:
The Stunning Lagoon Pool
Autumn 2021 154 Autumn 2021 155
SOMETHING UNIQUE
SOMETHING Something Unique UNIQUE
The islands are quite varied
geographically, encompassing
semi-arid deserts (Aruba and
Curacao), lush rainforests (Puerto Rico,
Grenada, St. Lucia and Dominica),
abundant coral reefs and marine life
(Bonaire, Cayman Islands, St. Lucia and
Tobago), and several volcanoes on many
islands.
Perhaps even more startling are the
cultural and linguistic differences.
Spanish is spoken in Cuba, the
Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico;
French in Guadeloupe and Martinique;
English in Antigua, Barbados, Jamaica,
Trinidad, Virgin Islands; and Dutch
in the ABC Islands and St Martin, not
to mention Creole in St Lucia, and
Papiamento (a mix of Spanish, Dutch
and African languages) in the ABC
Islands.
In Jamaica, you’ll no doubt meet some
of the island’s dreadlocked Rastafarians,
and if you seek them out, the lesserknown
Maroons . The long secretive
Maroons – descendants of escaped
slaves – live in small communities in
often hard to reach parts of Jamaica’s
mountains and forests. They continue
to maintain a semi-independent status
in the country – a hard-won status that
was secured centuries earlier from the
colonial overlords. Within the past year,
some Maroons have begun to share their
traditions and culture such as songs,
drumming and woodcarving with visitors
as a way to earn income and safeguard
their future.
Some islands have a particular claim to
fame: Grenada is known as the Spice
Island (tour a nutmeg processing plant
and visit spice plantations); Trinidad is
renowned for its pre-Lenten carnival
(you can even buy a costume and
‘play mas’); while Bonaire is popular
among divers. And a few islands are
closely associated with certain styles of
music: reggae in Jamaica; merengue in
the Dominican Republic; salsa, son,
rumba, trove and more in Cuba; calypso
and soca in Trinidad; and zouk in
Guadeloupe and Martinique.
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Autumn 2021 157
Island
Hopping
ISLAND
HOPPING
ISLAND HOPPING
To sample several islands in
one trip, consider the following
destinations, which offer quick
and easy access (ferry or plane) to
nearby islands. From St Martin (one
of the more cosmopolitan Caribbean
destinations) it’s fairly easy to get to
three very different islands – Anguilla,
Saba, and upscale St Barths.
Another option is to base yourself in the
beautiful but lesser visited St Vincent
and make forays out to see some of the
32 islands that make up the Grenadines
using inter-island ferries or on a day tour
(Bequia, Canouan, Mayreau, Tobago
Cays, secluded Petit St Vincent, and
the private island of Mustique are good
choices).
Or visit one of the dual island nations
– Trinidad and Tobago; Antigua and
Barbuda; or St Kitts and Nevis, which
have frequent and quick transportation to
their smaller and quieter sister islands.
Follow your own route between the
idyllic island gems of the Caribbean.
With so many different island nations,
traditions, cultures and cuisines to
explore, the team at
mycaribbeanholiday.co.uk can put
together your own bespoke combination
of Caribbean destinations and create
the most fascinating island hopping
experience. Some islands such as St.
Kitts and Nevis are only a quick boat
ride between each other, while other
trips will combine the Windward Islands
of Grenada or St Lucia with the more
northerly island of Antigua, all easily
connected by a short flight.
Contact their Caribbean experts on
0208 290 9751 to put together your
perfect Caribbean combination.
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St Lucia
Best Hotels
ST LUCIA
BEST HOTELS
ST LUCIA BEST HOTELS
Unlike more developed Caribbean Islands, such as Aruba and the Bahamas,
the sparsely populated island-nation of Saint Lucia still maintains a sense of
unspoiled, exotic beauty. Its landscapes of pristine beaches and mountainous
terrain are among the most stunning you’ll find anywhere in the Caribbean. Here is
our selection of the best places to stay in St Lucia.
Famed for its dramatic peaks and volcanic beaches, St Lucia is now - finally - upping
its game on the hotel scene with distinctive escapes to get excited about, we have
selected five of the best.
LADERA HOTEL, ST LUCIA
LADERA: bright, local, castaway
charmer
This hotel is in one of the most
incredible locations in the Caribbean,
high on a hillside with direct views
of the dramatic V formed by the
Pitons. Ladera is a collection of
architecturally unassuming wooden
structures angled to maximise the vista
(modestly described as ‘views with a
room’). It’s a quiet place with a fairly
formal restaurant-bar, and there are
never many people around. But then this
hotel is all about romance, and guests
tend to hole up in their rooms: big,
open-air Swiss Family Robinson-style
fantasies with polished teak floors, rope
swings, outdoor showers and carved
four-posters.
There are plenty of eccentric (some
might say kitsch) touches such as conchshell
taps, bright mosaics and carved
stone fish around the private plunge
pools. Ladera is over 20 years old, and
it’s starting to show, but the rooms are a
lot of fun, provided you’re comfortable
sharing them with geckos, birds and, at
night, insects. The property doesn’t have
its own beach (there’s a shuttle to the
ones at the Viceroy and Anse Chastanet),
so it’s best for those who are happy to
savour the view rather than sun on the
sand.
ROOM TO BOOK The Hilltop Dream
suites are the freshest and most private.
www.ladera.com
PRICE Doubles from £371
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SUGAR BEACH VICEROY RESORT ST LUCIA
SUGAR BEACH, A VICEROY
RESORT: full-on beachfront
glamourpuss.
Sugar Beach is set in 100 acres in the Val
de Pitons, and was originally developed
by the madcap Lord Glenconner of
Mustique fame. But don’t expect any
signs of its past: the new owners have
given it a stylish, contemporary gloss,
particularly in places like the Palm
Court Lounge, with its day beds and
smart black-and-white marble floor,
and the Cane Bar, where speciality
rums are poured at a gleaming, glassand-resin
counter. Rooms are fresh,
with white wood-plank walls and
slip- covered sofas. This is more of a
full-throttle hotel than others on the
island, so there’s a dive centre, an
adorable kids’ club, a butler service and
a terrific spa by a stream amid the trees
(very Ewok Village). There are two
brilliant restaurants: the more formal
Great Room, which serves zippy dishes
including striped bass with bok choy and
carrot-cardamom sauce, and Bayside
Restaurant on the beach for tuna burgers
and grilled flatbread with pancetta. But
the real draw is the miraculous setting
on a gorgeous stretch of (yes, it’s true)
sugary sand right between the Pitons.
ROOM TO BOOK For easy access
to the water, a Luxury Beachfront
Bungalow.
www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com
PRICE Doubles from £265
ST LUCIA BEST HOTELS
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HOTEL CHOCOLAT BOUCAN ST LUCIA
HOTEL CHOCOLAT BOUCAN:
young, cool, urbane scenester.
St Lucia’s newest hotel is on the 18thcentury
Rabot Estate where the owners
run a cocoa-growing project with local
farmers. It’s essentially a restaurant with
rooms showcasing Boucan, a lovely,
open-air pavilion where all the recipes
(cacao-nib-crusted pork fillet with mint
sauce; spicy curried chicken breast
in coconut-and-cacao-nib sauce) use
cacao or chocolate. It might sound like
a gimmick, but Boucan is probably the
best, and certainly the most interesting,
hotel-restaurant on the island. (It’s also
one of the few where you can get a
well-made cocktail.) The ebony-andwhite
rooms have vaulted ceilings,
draped four-poster beds and really smart
bathrooms. Best of all, they have headon
views of Petit Piton. The hotel doesn’t
have a beach, so there are all sorts of
things to keep guests happy, including
a lovely spa. With its cool, urban vibe,
Hotel Chocolat is designed for younger
travellers, the kind who explore by day
and stay up late mingling
at the bar; it’s a refreshing change of
pace on the island.
ROOM TO BOOK A spacious Luxe
Lodge room.
www.thehotelchocolat.com
PRICE Doubles from £270
ST LUCIA BEST HOTELS
Autumn 2021 165
CAP MAISON HOTEL ST LUCIA
CAP MAISON: trusty gem with top
service.
On a headland in the far north of St
Lucia, Cap Maison can feel a little
remote, unless you’re an avid golfer,
in which case its proximity to the
island’s one 18-hole course is the only
recommendation you’ll need. Designed
in a kind of Tuscan-Andalucian style
(clay-tile roofs, exposed beams,
splashing fountains and plenty of
wrought iron), it’s a quiet, gated
community of privately owned villas
with individual apartments rented out to
paying guests. The lovingly maintained
grounds are redolent with jasmine,
frangipani, oleander and hibiscus.
Because they were intended for longterm
use, the rooms are large and very
comfortable (if a bit bland). They also
have proper kitchens, separate living and
dining areas, and (unusual for St Lucia)
TVs. Some rooms have private pools;
all have big terraces with lovely sea
views. Young couples seem to flock to
Cap Maison: there’s a gorgeous, twotier
pool and a Champagne zipline that
will carry a bottle of bubbly down to a
private dining platform on the water. But
perhaps the best reason to stay here is the
staff, who are among the friendliest and
most efficient on the island.
ROOM TO BOOK Ground-floor rooms
have pools but are less private; those
on the top floors have secluded roof
terraces.
www.capmaison.com
PRICE Doubles from £300
ST LUCIA BEST HOTELS
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Carribean
SECLUDED Secluded ISLANDS Islands
& OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACKS
& Off-The-Beaten-Tracks
SECLUDED ISLANDS
If you want a place to unwind and
don’t care much for sight-seeing,
consider the smaller islands in and to
the south of the Lesser Antilles, such as
Tobago, Barbuda, and Anguilla. Many
are free of fast food chains, casinos,
cruise ships, jet-skis and mass tourism;
they just boast fabulous beaches and
some of the best restaurants in the
Caribbean.
If the words quaint and charming sound
appealing, try Bequia, Nevis, Montserrat
and Saba (where by law all the homes
and buildings are painted white, with a
red roof and green shutters). For more
upscale seclusion, the Caribbean has
plenty of private or secluded islands
from which to choose. The Grenadines
alone has Mustique, secluded Petit St
Vincent, and the five uninhabited islands
of the Tobago Cays.
Necker Island
Barbuda
Tobago
On Necker Island (owned by Sir
Richard Branson) in the British Virgin
Islands, you could spend the day all
alone or potentially rub shoulders with
rock stars or A-list celebrities.
Other secluded hideaways can be found
on more affordable islands including
Tobago and Barbuda, where you can
easily find a gorgeous, deserted beach to
call your own.
With 7000+ islands, the Caribbean has
more than a few off-the-beaten-track
possibilities. These are some places
with few tourists where tranquility reins
supreme: Anguilla, Barbuda, Bonaire,
Carriacou, Dominica, Nevis, Montserrat,
Saba, St Eustatius, St Vincent and the
Grenadines, Tobago, the Turks and
Caicos (except Providenciales), and
Vieques Island in Puerto Rico.
Lodging options on these islands include
resorts (the most popular), inns and
B&Bs. Condos, time-shares, and villas
generally offer more space, kitchen
facilities and are ideal for families or
groups of friends. They can often be
less expensive than hotels, especially if
travelling with a group. The whole island
of Montserrat is basically off-the-beatentrack
– there are several villa options,
many of which offer good value and
some have pools.
Necker Island
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BUCKET Bucket List LIST Places PLACES to Visit in TO the
VISIT IN THE CARIBBEAN
Caribbean
The Caribbean is a vast collection of countries, islands and reefs;
warm almost year-round it is a paradise for those who enjoy boating,
diving, snorkeling and all manner of outdoor activities as well as those who are
simply in need of a place to relax. Drawing tourists from around the world, Caribbean
islands are often found on “bucket lists” made by eager travelers We’ve picked our
top experiences that should find prominent placement on your list!
ROSE ISLAND, BAHAMAS
Hire a guide with a boat in Nassau,
preferably High Seas, to take you to
Rose Island and despite the rather short
ride from resorts such as Atlantis – when
you are deposited on the glaringly white
sand beach of Rose Island, Bahamas–
you will feel like you have landed in
another country. The privacy and simple
beauty of this small island make it the
kind of place we dream about when we
think of getting lost for the purposes of
relaxation. The water hits the beach in
shades of turquoise and blue, clear as
glass to a depth that covers your head.
Swim away from your boat and the
shore, with a cold beer in hand, float
on the gentle current, let the sun warm
your face and feel more at peace than
anywhere else in the Caribbean.
JADE MOUNTAIN, ST. LUCIA
Kids under 15 are not allowed at this
resort with sweeping views of St. Lucia’s
UNESCO-protected twin Pitons where
every sanctuary (as the boutique suites
are known) comes with a personal
concierge. Private infinity pools anchor
an open-air layout that is designed to
frame the stunning views, rather than
detract, and bathrooms feature whirlpool
tubs. “Jade Cuisine” created by James
Beard award winning Chef Allen Susser,
can be enjoyed poolside or in-room.
Kai en Ciel Spa offers a hot stone
massage and guests of Jade Mountain
also have full access to the 600-acre
Anse Chastanet estate plus two white
sand beaches and an abundance of coral
life for snorkeling This tops our bucket
list for views and amenities as well as
the guarantee of a romantic, adults-only
experience.
SECLUDED ISLANDS
CANEEL BAY, ST. JOHN
It might have been opened in 1956, but
as the only resort within the boundaries
of Virgin Islands National Park,Caneel
Bay is on our Caribbean bucket list
because in just one resort that is 170
acres there are seven white sand beaches
for guests to enjoy. Whether you do
so by sunfish sailboat, kayak, standup
paddle-board Hobie cat or simply
some fins and a mask, there is no need
to go anywhere else for adventurous
yet relaxing fun in paradise. Of course
it also has four on-site restaurants, so
you will not go hungry either. Because
of the ecotourism focus, there are no
televisions or telephones in the rooms,
making it the sort of destination where
you can really unplug and get away from
the stress of daily life.
ANI VILLAS, ANGUILLA
Frequently awarded “Best Luxury
Villa” by trial sites, these 10,000 square
foot villas on top of a cliff in alreadyexclusive
Anguilla are the amongst
the most luxurious of hideaways in the
Caribbean. Each villa is an all-inclusive
experience, fully staffed with an entire
team that is dedicated to satisfying your
every whim. Maids, a butler, a chef and
even spa personnel are at your disposal
as are bikes, kayaks and a luxury car.
Balconies enlarge the living space of
every bedroom and the villas share a
gym, tennis court and expansive lounge
decks for private sunbathing away from
more crowded beaches. Architect Lee
Skolnick and designer Bonnie Bloom
combined their talents to create one of
the most spectacular private vacation
experiences on the planet but to take it
one step further managers are available
to craft a bespoke itinerary that will
make your stay at Ani Villas truly
unforgettable. If that’s not top of the
bucket list material, we don’t know what
is!
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HOLA
HAVANA
Visiting Cuba’s sultry Spanish Colonial capital is like
stepping back in time – to all extents and purposes
– its still living around 50 years in the past. But it’s
changing fast: behind the crumbling colonial façades,
boutique hotels, cocktail bars and modern cars are sneaking
in. It hasn’t compromised this magical city yet but
your last chance to step back in time won’t last forever.
By our man in Havana Martin Mason.
Photo credit:
© Julie Paice, Antelope Media and © Sophie Mason
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
Havana:
Street musicians are everywhere
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Havana:
The impressive National Capitol Building
HOLA HAVANA
HOLA HAVANA
One of the things that makes Cuba a unique travel destination is that it feels like a piece of
remote paradise that hasn’t been affected by time, in the best way possible. Vintage cars are
omnipresent, and you would be hard-pressed to find a single familiar franchise.
The mishmash of eclectic and colourful architecture—borrowing
from Colonial, Neo-Classical, and Art Deco periods—make it
one of the most visually stunning cities you’ll ever experience,
and the domestic history, unknown to so many, is one that begs
to be told to visitors. Not least adding to the charm of this city
are the people and the live music that take over every and any
empty corner of space.
The city itself is a sight enough – colourful houses, bustling
characters and Spanish colonial architecture – but if you want
to delve even deeper, take a trip to the old town in one of the
authentic 1950s cars. It might sounds cheesy, but it’s really not.
There is nothing like the feeling of riding in a vintage Chevy
with the top down to make you feel like a star from a 1940s movie.
Get a tour with an English-speaking guide so you can really
get to know Havana and its history and ask any questions that
you may have. Yes its a tourist cliché, but the very best kind. Its
thrilling, fun and totally unique to Havana.
Havana:
The Plaza de la Revolution
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Art & Culture
You will quickly understand why writer Ernest Hemingway,
whose traces are felt all over Havana, fell in love
with the country and its people. Nowhere reflects this
better than El Floridita, a bar and restaurant that became
world-known thanks to Hemingway, who was
a regular customer. The writer has ended up being the
main attraction for tourists from all over the world, who
visit “the cradle of daiquiri” and take their pictures by
the bronze bust. We ordered three rounds of the signature
cocktail and wasn’t disappointed.
Best things to see:
National Capitol Building: Standing tall in the heart of
Old Havana is this impressive building, which was initially
the seat of government in Cuba until after the Cuban
Revolution. It’s currently undergoing renovations, but it’s
definitely worth taking in - plus the surrounding areas are
packed with vintage cars and salsa bars if you want to soak
up local culture.
Revolution Square: The Plaza de la Revolution draws in
crowds of tourists thanks to its impressive landmarks such
as the José Martí Memorial, not to mention the towering
buildings with immense tributes to historical figures from
Fidel Castro to Che Guevara.
The Malecon: Between the ocean and Havana sits this
impressive seawall, which runs from one end of the city
to the other. Havana’s waterfront is one of the most scenic
places in the city. We walked it during daylight to absorb
all the colourful and character-filled buildings that flank it
on the city side.
HOLA HAVANA
Havana:
Old Havana’s eclectic and
colourful architecture
Take a stroll through Old Havana: Colourful buildings,
spontaneous live music performances, cigar shops and hidden
eating spots are just some of the attractions on offer in this
bustling district. By day it’s a sightseeing hotspot - by night,
the bars come alive with salsa dancing and cocktails.
Travel tips:
When to go: Expect year-round sun with average temperatures
of 25C. Watch out for humidity. Peak season is from December
to March and July/August when hotel costs are at their highest.
Cash is king: Don’t rely on ATMs or credit cards. You can’t
change money before you go so take untorn, unmarked euros
or pounds, not US dollars. Most hotels give fair rates and it’s
easier than queuing up at the banks. Cuba has a two-currency
system – Cuban pesos for locals and the CUC for tourists.
Top tip: Tipping is the norm for anyone from porters to waiters
so keep small notes handy. And get some small coins for loo attendants.
Spare loo roll might also come in handy for a variety
of reasons.
Visa: All visitors need a £15 Tourist Card (a form of visa)
which is available from your tour operator or the Cuban Consulate,
167 High Holborn, London WC1V 6PA. My own journey
to obtain the appropriate journalist visa was an eventful as the
4-fabulous days we spent in Havana.
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Where to stay
HOLA HAVANA
We stayed at The Iberostar Parque Central located in a perfect spot opposite Havana’s famous Parque Central. Dressed in Spanish
colonial style decor painted in warm bright colours, there’s plenty of lush greenery, floral arrangements to add colour.
The space comprises the reception and lobby which has a sweeping staircase that leads to the mezzanine floor where the walls are
covered in gorgeous artworks. It is all lit up with lashings of daylight that make its way in through the glass dome of the atrium.
There’s a wonderful bustle of people coming in and out, guests sipping a tipple by the long bar and tourists lounging around on the
sofas with all day food. There’s an air of old school decorum that’s made all the more calm by the all-day live bands who mete out
easy-listening Cuban music from their corner of the lobby.
The roof top pool has sensational views over the city and has
several Jacuzzi’s positioned at the edges especially so you
enjoy the panorama. Live music was constantly playing and the
cocktails are served thick and fast.
The buffet breakfast is a huge spread with various pastries, and
of course cooked breakfast. But the star of the show is the room
itself with its gorgeous mural, impressive pillars and elegant
decor. There are three speciality restaurants that offer lunch and
dinner: Mirabana serving authentic Cuban dishes with a modern
twist, Mediterraneo buffet restaurant and El Paseo Steak
House, a meat, fish and seafood grill. We enjoyed a sample
menu at the latter that was simply delicious and accompanied
by a great wine choice from our waiter.
What you may have heard about the Internet in Cuba is true.
Cuba is probably one of the few countries in the world that
does not have free internet access anywhere in the country.
However, accessing the wi-fi at the Iberostar Parque Central
was straight forward and connection speeds were fine. We easily
got online in the lobby and bedrooms and access codes were
provided upon check in.
We were also lucky enough to visit the Iberostar Grand
Packard which is situated on the Paseo de Prado, the street
that divides central Havana and the city’s old town. Inspired
by the 1950s cars that trundle past, the Packard is ultra stylish,
with iconic signage and sparking crystal chandeliers. The pièce
de résistance is a two-storey terrace with a 276m-long infinity
pool two-thirds up the facade. It looks amazing.
The Packard has four restaurants and two bars . We dined on
the hotel terrace and enjoyed great food and service.
The exceptional panoramic views of the Morro Castel and the
boardwalk made the evening a real highlight of our stay
in Havana.
How to get there:
The easiest route from the UK to Cuba is with Virgin Atlantic,
who offer direct flights from London Gatwick straight to
Havana, with a flight time of approximately 9 hours and
40 minutes. www.virginatlantic.com
Book Iberostar accommodation at:
www.iberostar.com
Thanks to:
The Cuba Tourist Board in London for their assistance in
planning this visit. Visit www.travel2cuba.co.uk
Autumn 2021 179
VIVA
VARADERO
Varadero, located on the sinuous 20km-long Hicacos Peninsula, stands at
the vanguard of Cuba’s most important industry – tourism. its beach is an
uninterrupted 20km stretch of blond sand that is undoubtedly one of the
Caribbean’s best. Martin Mason visited one of its finest resorts.
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
Autumn 2021 180 Autumn 2021 181
VIVA VARADERO
ROYALTON HICACOS
VARADERO, CUBA
Our journey to discover the charismatic country of Cuba had naturally taken us to the capital
Havana, where we enjoyed a week walking through streets bustling with activity and
immersing ourselves in local culture. Now it was time for something different!
Discussions with the Cuba tourist board in London suggested
spending time in one of the country’s main beach resorts. So, we
put adventure to one side, packed up our panama hats and headed
140km east of Havana to Varadero, the country’s tourist mecca.
After the excitement and energy of the capital, ten days kicking
back and sitting on the beach sounded ideal.
Located on the gorgeous Varadero Peninsula on the northern
coast of Cuba, is the all-inclusive adults only Royalton Hicacos
Resort & Spa. It has a particularly idyllic seafront location with
a pristine soft-sand beach. Indeed, this is a beautiful undisturbed
wide-brimmed ribbon of bright beige sand that curves into the
distance. It is sandwiched between a lush green backdrop and the
lapping of sparkling turquoise waters and dotted with thatched
parasols that throw shade over cushioned sun beds.
The warm Caribbean climate offers sunshine throughout the
year and getting there is a two-hour or so drive from the capital,
passing some simply sensational views.
We arrived on a humid afternoon to a happy welcome, and by
noon the next day we had fallen in love with the place. Our days
at the resort were mostly spent watching stunning sunsets on the
beach, sampling delicious food, drinking cocktails around the
pool and enjoying Cuban music. It’s the perfect place to unwind
and spend a week in paradise.
The lobby is spacious with water features, white-washed
columns, live band music and flowers that together offer a sense
of grandiose yet calm gaiety. There’s a large lobby bar too where
many a pre-dinner cocktail or a just-for-the-hell of it tipple can
be enjoyed. •
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VIVA VARADERO
Stunning Suites
The resort has 404 rooms including Junior, Royal and
Presidential Suites. Our junior suite was complete with
living room and a large balcony. We were delighted to find
a huge bath and a bed that could have slept four people. The
fridge was stocked with local soft drinks and beer, and it was
re-stocked daily. As a Diamond Club guest, we were also
supplied with a range of premium spirits and wine. Moreover,
the room was always cool, clean and the maids surprised
us each day with wonderful towel creations. The rooms at
Royalton Hicacos are located in quiet areas, most of them
overlooking the resort’s lush gardens. It doesn’t feel like a hotel
– more an apartment by the sea.
There are three outdoor pools surrounded by tropical gardens;
quiet pools for quiet moments and a large one with a swim-up
bar where you can drink as many drinks and tipples as you like.
Activities are in full swing every day and anyone can join in
or not. However, you won’t be disturbed with splashes as the
main pool is simply huge. At night the lights shine romantically
on the water and this makes for a lovely stroll.
And of course, there is the stunning, well-manicured beach
which is connected to the resort. It is truly one of the finest that
we have visited throughout the Caribbean. The sea has shallow
waters for quite a way out and with no rocks underfoot it’s easy
to enjoy. There are plenty of loungers and cabanas so you will
be sure to find one. Once settled, waiters from the beach bar are
continuously on hand to refresh your drinks.
The sunsets here are spectacular, so keep your camera handy as
dusk creeps in.
A range of a la carte restaurants
The resort also has five very good a la carte restaurants including the recently refurbished Armadillo, Tex-Mex Cuisine. Our
favourite was the Beach Club Grill where we enjoyed fresh lobster and sea food while listening to the sound of waves and some
lovely live music.
Wi-Fi connectivity at Royalton Hicacos is surprisingly good. Internet across Cuba is regulated by the government, so you need to
buy internet cards which costs 1 CUC (less than £1) for an hour. You can buy as many as you like to access Wi-Fi in the lobby and
many other areas of the resort. However, we found the ten-day internet detox somewhat liberating.
The staff took great care of us throughout our stay with waiters at the restaurants always happy and attentive. Our dedicated
butlers Pedro and Ronald greeted us every day to make sure everything was OK and assist with restaurant and spa reservations.
Sporty types can benefit from the excellent golf service that is included in the Diamond Club package. This includes transport
and green fees at the nearby Varadero Golf Course.
While we did spend most of our days relaxing at the resort reading and sunbathing, we also ventured out on a small adventure. The
resort is located close to the Varahicacos Ecological Reserve, which is home to some interesting natural wonders, including Cueva
de Ambrosio: a historic cave with ancient pictographs and hundreds of bats. Entrance fee is just 5 CUC (less than £5) and you get
a guided tour.
Evening entertainment
There’s a great range of land and water sports included such as
sailboats, kayaks and snorkelling. A highlight of our stay was
a half-day scuba diving trip to nearby Cayo Piedra. Diamond
Club guests can enjoy this as part of their package and
instructors are on hand to provide morning lessons to get you
dive ready.
Evening entertainment is varied, colourful and lively. We
especially enjoyed the acoustic acts who performed in the Jazz
Bar each evening. There’s also a spacious disco for late night
revellers to dance the night away, and a laid-back cigar bar.
The Spa and Beauty Salon are extensive and elegant both
visually and aromatically. It comes with a varied menu of
treatments including facials and massages. The relaxing
couple’s massage that we received was another highlight of
our stay. There are also a few well stocked shops in the resort,
including a pharmacy and a souvenir outlet, so you don’t need
to go into town to buy things like gifts or beachwear.
It’s impossible to go hungry or thirsty at Royalton Hicacos.
Waiters are always on the lookout for people to serve in all the
six bars and various restaurants. Cuba is not known for being at
the top of the gourmet ladder but the food here is delicious.
The buffet offers various cooking stations with meals,
including seafood, lobster, various meats which are freshly
prepared on request.
The Beach Club Grill
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VIVA VARADERO
INTERVIEW
AMAZING DESTINATIONS EDITOR MARTIN MASON SAT
DOWN WITH LORENZO RUBIÓ PLANELLAS, GENERAL
MANAGER, ROYALTON HICACOS RESORT.
Amazing Destinations: How long have you been the General
Manager of the resort and what excited you most about the role
and the property?
SUMMARY
Lorenzo Rubio: I have been Royalton Hicacos General Manager
for 6 months. It is a big opportunity to be the person that can take
decisions and make changes for our guests so that they feel at home
here. Being a leader for my employees is also a big responsibility
for me.
AD: What are the characteristics that define your property?
LR: Adults only resort, personalized service from the beginning to
the end of the stay, butler service included for all guests, room service
included, Scuba diving included for beginners and certified clients,
high standards in food and beverages, recognized beach quality and
qualified staff offering good service.
AD: Have you found a way to stand out in the food and beverage
part of the business and, for Royalton, how important is it that the
all-inclusive properties excel in that component?
Royalton Hicacos:
Bright and expansive reception
LR: Royalton Luxury Resorts are known for offering guests a
gourmet cuisine from around the world and an unique dining
experience. We have 6 a la carte restaurants with different themes
including Mexican, Italian, Seafood, Caribbean and International
food and 1 buffet restaurant. On the one hand, it is important to keep
standards high, in line with the brand and our client’s expectations.
On the other, we have selected a great team of chefs who try to add
new details in our kitchen every day.
Royalton Hicacos:
3 stunning swimming pools
“
The transparency of its waters, the blue tones of the
sea, its white and fine sands make for an unforgettable
resort. For fun in the sun this place is perfect.
”
With a range of activities and entertainment there’s
no excuse to get bored, yet if romance is on the
agenda, there is plenty of scope for that too.
How to get there:
Virgin Holidays: www.virginholidays.co.uk
TUI: www.tui.co.uk
Kuoni: www.kuoni.co.uk
Direct: www.royaltonresorts.com/royalton-hicacos
Special thanks: Andrea Mejia, Royalton Luxury Resorts.
Isabel. D. Jimenez, The Cuba Tourist Board (London).
AD: In a competitive lifestyle segment, how much of a focus does
the spa facilities at a resort like the Hicacos need to be?
LR: The Spa service in a hotel like ours is important as clients are
expecting to enjoy every single minute of their stay, and this is an
important service that takes up their time. We have a personalized and
private spa with everything necessary for our guests to enjoy including
the best masseur’s team. We also offer the steam bath and sauna for all
the hotel clients.
AD: In a connected world hotel guests will always require access
to the internet. Given Cuba’s unique telecoms structure, how far
have you been able to take the technology to ensure this is a nonissue?
LR: We are an innovative brand, and we are making a difference in
the island by having connectivity all over the resort so our guests can
be connected during their stay.
AD: Where are the room rates compared to other Varadero and
Caribbean destinations and where do you see those standing in the
future?
LR: We are an award wining hotel management chain and our
property itself has received numerous accolades. One of our
differentiators is that we provide the greatest value in return.
AD: Given the continued growth in international visitors to Cuba
[over 5% in 2019 year-on year], how is both Varadero and the
Hicacos placed to take advantage of the ‘boom’?
LR: Taking advantage of the growth in international and national
visitors to Varadero, Royalton Hicacos is offering additions to our
guest packages like high class Golf and Diving services. We have
been effectively promoting our product across both European and
domestic markets.
Autumn 2021 186 Autumn 2021 187
IBIZA
REVISITED
There is more to this island than its vibrant clubbing scene;
rugged beauty and a charming capital city are just the beginning,
says Martin Mason.
This pearl of an island, rinsed in millennia of history, has many dimensions besides
its reputation as the most vibrant clubbing venue in the Mediterranean. The
third-largest of the Balearic isles is a fascinating mix of up-all-night hedonists in the west,
rugged beauty and isolation in the north, a string of attractive resorts in the east and a
splendid capital in the south – although each of these disparate flanks is decorated with
stretches of sand perfect for lazy, sun-soaked days. And the interior is different again,
awash with pastoral prettiness, all olive groves and swaying cornfields. Records suggest
Ibiza was first settled by Phoenician seafarers as long ago as the seventh century BC – and
it has been deeply coveted since: by the ancient Greeks who came after, coining the term
pityussai in reference to the island’s dense pine coverage; by invading Carthaginians, Romans
and North African Moors; by Spain, into whose grasp Ibiza effectively fell in 1235,
when James I of Aragon wrested it from Moorish control.
Today, the capital Eivissa (or Ibiza Town, to use the name more recognised than the
official Catalan version) clings to the crag that, in medieval times, made it a citadel of real
strength. It is a defiantly Spanish entity, and fabulously cosmopolitan with it. The lively
resorts of Platja d’en Bossa and Platja de Ses Salines are close by, their beaches festooned
with bars that waft chill-out mixes into the breeze.
Ibiza Town’s sublime charms are counterbalanced by the clubs strewn around the resort of
Sant Antoni (San Antonio). It sits above a crescent bay where the never-to-bed can doze
away the daylight – though the west coast’s finest beach may well be the quieter Cala
d’Hort, near the village of Es Cubells. More visitors base themselves in the east, in whitewashed
towns of rich character, such as Santa Eularia – which plays host to twin beaches,
separated by a rocky bluff, and dotted with cafés and ice-creameries.
The north provides dramatic land and seascapes, such as the plunging, sheer-sided form
of Na Xamena Bay, and lovely coves at Benirras and Portinatx.
Written By Martin Mason
Photography: Julie Paice, Flavio Liotto
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
Autumn 2021 188 Autumn 2021 189
CAPITAL CLASS
Though they mainly date to the 16th century, the fortifications of the capital’s Dalt Vila (Upper
Town) hint at their Phoenician and Arab past. Indeed, even in summer, when its alleys
are madly busy, there is a palpable sense of history to the quarter that has been recognised
with Unesco World Heritage status.
Santa Maria d’Eivissa, at the summit of the hill, is a sandstone block, as much defensive
bastion as cathedral – though you cross the threshold into a respectful hush and a whiff of
incense. On the slope below, culture abounds: in the Museu Arqueològic, which takes the
Ibizan story back to the first settlers; in the Madina Yabisa, which investigates the Moorish
era; and at the Museu Puget, which celebrates two local artists, father and son, who crafted
watercolour images of their home island.
Further down, the Ibiza of yore gradually bleeds into the modern town – though there is
pleasing Hispanic ambience to the likes of Carrer de Sa Carrossa and Placa de la Vila, where
small restaurants and shops come in clusters. El Mercado Viejo, on Placa de la Constitución,
sees fruit and vegetables sold in a joyfully antiquated manner. And Placa de Parc seems to be
on permanent siesta.
In this context, Ibiza Town is a fine place to stay. Hotel Mirador, is the flagship, a stately
five-star with just 13 rooms. Doubles from €290 per night (not including breakfast). Similarly
luxurious, but more contemporary in style, the Ibiza Gran Hotel, at Passeig Joan Carles I
has double rooms from €270 a night, including breakfast.
At the other end of the price bracket, the three-star Hotel Cenit, on Carrer Arxiduc Lluis
Salvador, does doubles from €52, with breakfast.
MEET THE NEIGHBOURS
Often overlooked, Ibiza’s sibling isle Formentera lingers two miles south of its big brother.
Largely flat, this 32-square-mile outcrop is easily explored by bike, and projects a calmer
Balearic vibe beyond the peak months of July and August.
Formentera markets itself as “the last paradise in the Mediterranean”, a reasonable point as,
while the other inhabited Balearic islands (Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza) all have airports,
Formentera does not. Plenty of people use their yachts to get here, but having your own boat
is not essential. Ferries set sail from the Estacion Maritima (on Avenida Andanes) in Ibiza
Town, docking at La Savina on the north coast of Formentera. The journey takes between
25 and 35 minutes depending on the operator, but there is otherwise not much to choose
between Balearia, Trasmapi and Mediterranea Pitiusa, whose competition along the route
ensures regular departures.
The island has a network of paths, based on ancient tracks, and now adapted for bikes and
hikes. These 20 “green circuits” allow you maximum opportunity to see Formentera with
minimum impact. Most visitors come for the beaches (such as Platja Llevant in the north,
Platja Migjorn in the south) – which are frequently less packed than their counterparts on
Ibiza. But there is also a noteworthy elegance to Formentera’s villages – La Savina, Sant
Francesc and Sant Ferran in the centre, the tiny El Pilar de la Mola at its south-eastern tip.
IBIZA REVISITED
Autumn 2021 190 Autumn 2021 191
GOURMET GRUB
Drop a pin on a map of Ibiza, and it will land somewhere near a commendable culinary concern.
Almost every village comes equipped with a restaurant that mixes the traditional and
the new with aplomb.
Sant Agusti, in the west near Sant Antoni, is scarcely a hamlet, yet still offers Can Berri Vell
– a farmstead eatery that does slow-cooked suckling pig for €17.50. Sant Llorenç has the
family-run La Paloma, where a heavy Brazilian moqueca (fish stew) costs €21.
Sant Carles has an institution in Bar Anita, unpromising of name but hearty of atmosphere
and gazpacho (€7). And at Santa Gertrudis, at the dead centre of the island, several cafés,
ideal for coffee and tapas, are strung around the Placa de la Iglesia.
Ibiza Town has numerous options, but La Brasa is special, its outdoor tables caught beneath
thick branches.
Sa Punta, meanwhile, might be an emblem of Ibiza as a whole. A restaurant on Talamanca
Bay, loosely affiliated with Pacha, it basks in an understated trendiness, but does not neglect
the food – basslines rolling discreetly as you eat wild roasted seabass (€28) while gazing out
across to the yachts that are bobbing at the marina.
IN THE CLUB
Sant Antoni is the key pilgrimage point for those seeking after-dark adventure on Ibiza.
Though surprisingly small in scale, the town is the site of two of the island’s most famous
clubs: Eden, on Carrer Salvador Espriu, and Es Paradis, which lies directly opposite on the
same road.
However, there is more to this west-coast enclave than post-midnight mayhem. Its main
promenade is home to two pre-club institutions – Café Del Mar and Café Mambo – where
crowds congregate at the end of the day to watch the sun set over moderately pricey cocktails
and a merry burble of conversation.
Less dancefloor-focused music blasts out on Carrer de la Estrella, where, as well as offering
swish accommodation, the Ibiza Rocks Hotel hosts major bands in its courtyard. Gigs
take place on Wednesday evenings over 17 weeks each summer, with previous participants
including Arctic Monkeys, Florence and the Machine, Vampire Weekend and Kasabian.
Elsewhere on the isle, the south coast also has two sizeable clubs: Pacha, on Avenida Ocho
de Agosto in Ibiza Town, and Space, at Platja d’en Bossa.
Amnesia, meanwhile, is something of an anomaly – a concrete barn just off Carrer d’Eivissa-Sant
Antoni (the “motorway” that links Ibiza Town and Sant Antoni) near Sant Rafael.
Although Amnesia is forgettably unimpressive from the outside, it opens up into a handsaloft
arena that holds 5,000. While the precise opening and closing dates vary from venue to
venue, the clubbing season generally begins in the first flush of June, and shuts down at the
end of September.
IBIZA REVISITED
Autumn 2021 192
Autumn 2021 193
DESIGNS ON THE INTERIOR
While the Ibizan shore is alive with sun-seekers, the interior might be another world – a rural
realm that deals in small farms, the hum of tractors and the occasional vineyard.
It is worth an afternoon or three, on either two wheels or two feet, especially as would-be
wanderers are given plenty of assistance. In the last three years, an army of signposts has
appeared along lanes and at junctions, marking some 30 cycling and hiking trails that have
been created to showcase the best of the island’s scenery.
IBIZA REVISITED
Of the 30, Route 19, a mountain-biking trail with mildly tricky sections, is arguably the pick,
chiefly because it spears through pine forests to the dramatic lip of Na Xamena Bay. Bikes
can be hired from Ibiza Sport in Sant Antoni for €16 per day.
Trawling the back roads in this fashion allows you to get under the island’s skin – Route
19 also scythes through the villages of Sant Miquel and Sant Llorenç. These outposts are
sometimes so sleepy as to be catatonic, but can also spring surprises. Puig de Missa, a hillock
tucked behind Santa Eularia, pictured above, is a mini version of Ibiza Town in its sharp gradient,
14th-century church and long-distance views. It also has the Museo Barrau, a museum
dedicated to the early 20th-century artist Laurea Barrau, who lived here.
Elsewhere, the Las Dalias Hippy Market, near Sant Carles, is an unconvincing ghost of the
Bohemian swirl that engulfed Ibiza in the Sixties – but there are bargains to be bought amid
the tie-dye, trinkets and hand-made jewellery.
For those who like to wake up to the swish of leaves rather than the whoosh of waves, the
interior also proffers a hotel or two. Can Lluc, slotted into a vineyard near Sant Rafael, is
delightfully rustic – double rooms from €180 a night, with breakfast. Can Curreu, just outside
Sant Carles, plays a similar card, but ups the ante with a spa – from €220 per night, with
breakfast.
Autumn 2021 195
CITY GUIDE
ROME
Written By Martin Mason
Photography: Julie Paice, Flavio Liotto
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
IN 72 HOURS
If you had to narrow Rome’s many fetching attributes down to one single selling point, it would have to be how effortlessly the
ancient past and the electric present merge everywhere: in its cuisine, its culture, and its hospitality. Because the city is compact and
dense, three days is actually an ideal stay. Work your way from the once-hardscrabble, now thoroughly gentrified streets of Trastevere
across the Tiber and through the gorgeous jumble of the Campo Marzio, then venture out to a less-explored suburb – on foot, or
astride a vintage Vespa with a guide.
Autumn 2021 196 Autumn 2021 197
DAY ONE:
CITY GUIDE ROME
STAY: DONNA CAMILLA SAVELLI
We’re not sure it gets better than sleeping in a Borrominidesigned
former convent in Trastevere. Minimalists might
want to check in elsewhere, but if early Baroque splendor
– heavy walnut furniture, dark coffered ceilings, polished
terracotta floors – is your thing, book one of its 78 rooms,
some with views up to the Villa Aurelia. In the morning, you
can enjoy your coffee in the hushed courtyard, planted with
herbs and rosebushes.
EAT: GELATERIA DEL TEATRO
Hidden among the antiques and furniture dealers on a tiny
side street off the Via dei Coronari, Gelateria Del Teatro
is of very modest dimensions for a place that packs such a
delicious punch: the owner used to be a pastry chef, and favors
pistachios and walnuts from Sicily, lemons from Amalfi, and
creative deployment of unexpected ingredients (sage; thyme;
wine grapes).
PLAY: GALLERIA DORIA PAMPHILJ
The Galleria Doria Pamphilj is a near-overdose art high:
packed densely with 17th-century Flemish, Italian, English
and Spanish masters (Velazquez’s famous portrait of Innocent
X – yes, he was a Doria-Pamphilij – hangs here), it also gives
you a window into how the palazzo’d half lives: the private
apartments, in which the family still resides, are open to the
public on certain days of the week.
No other monument in Rome marries the ancient with the
contemporary as aptly, and beautifully, as does the Ara Pacis.
The altar to peace, built by Caesar Augustus in 13 BC, has
since 2006 AD been encased – or showcased, really – in a
masterpiece of steel, glass, and marble designed by Richard
Meier. It hosts rotating photography and painting exhibitions
as well.
EAT: ARMANDO AL PANTHEON
Armando al Pantheon, a stone’s throw from the monument
of the same name, recently had a makeover, bringing its
more than 50-year-old interiors up to speed with the 21st
century. Their new sleekness might have rankled a few oldtimers,
but the Roman standards the Gargioli family turns out
(think artichokes, chicory, oxtail and suckling pig, in various
delectable permutations) still impress with their consistent
excellence.
DRINK: NO.AU
Even in Rome, sometimes a late-night beer – especially if it’s
a craft brew from Baladin founder and Eataly superstar Teo
Musso – can hit the spot. At No.Au, hidden away behind the
Piazza Navona, they also specialize in potato chips: hand-cut
and fried on site, salty and transportingly delicious. (There
are great small-production wines by the glass, and a few other
snacks on the menu, too. But those chips; we’re telling you.
Heaven.)
Autumn 2021 199
DAY TWO:
CITY GUIDE ROME
STAY: DOM
It’s the unbeatable location that sold us on DOM. The dark,
velvet-lined bar and narrow restaurant might not be to all tastes,
but the rooms are sumptuous and light-filled – studies in opulent
silks and linens, brass and stone – and the roof terrace affords
quite a horizon: the rosy dome of Vatican, the Juniculum, and
the myriad terraces of the centro storico.
EAT: PORTO FLUVIALE
Flush at the border of buzzy Testaccio and up-and-coming
Ostiense is Porto Fluviale, a multi-venue tribute to *la
gastronomia romana.*You can drink a good negroni in the bar,
compare the virtues of Neopolitan (doughy crust) and Roman
(thin crust) pizzas in the dual-oven pizzeria, or get versed in
how Romans do nose-to-tail at the charcuterie counter.
Should your carnivore pangs still not be met, head for Monte
Testaccio, and Flavio al Velavevodetto, which is literally
built into the side of the famous ‘mountain’ (actually a hill
of ancient Roman detritus). The rigatoni alla gricia– cacio
cheese, guanciale, and tons of black pepper – is bar-setting;
the polpettehave achieved near-legendary status; and the
abbacchio(roast lamb) with potatoes and broccoli is enormous -
one portion feeds two.
PLAY: MAXXI MUSEUM
Whether or not you’re a Zaha Hadid fan, MAXXI is the face
of 21st century Rome (or at least one of them). The building’s
an opinion divider, but the exhibitions earn universal praise:
the work of William Kentridge, Francesco Vezzoli, Antonio
Citterio, and dozens of others cycle through the exhibition
spaces each year. The courtyard and outdoor café are a great
place for little ones to run off excess energy or bask in the sun.
DRINK: BARNUM CAFE
By day, Barnum Café, around the corner from the Palazzo
Farnese, is a coffee bar; after dark, however, it morphs into one
of the only places in this city to serve truly good cocktails: these
bartenders know their London drys, their single malts, and just
about everything else—but the vibe is 100% Roman.
If wine is your thing, go old-school: two of the most atmospheric
enotechein Rome are a five-minute walk from each other. Il
Goccetto and Angolo Divino both have rustic interiors, walls
lined with top bottles, both big-name and obscure, and glass
counters filled with small nibbles – tramezzini, nice breads,
olives and, at Il Goccetto, a killer cheese plate.
Autumn 2021 201
DAY THREE:
CITY GUIDE ROME
STAY: LUXURY ART HOTEL
The First Luxury Art Hotel may jar a bit on first look – the entrance features some
loud artwork and a piece or two of eyebrow-raising furniture – but the artfullyconceived
rooms, their tone neutral and calming in contrast to the shouty public
spaces, and great-value prices (for such a central location and such genial service)
make up for it, as does the roof bar, which morphs into one of the city’s top sushi
restaurants in summertime.
EAT: SANT’EUTACHIO
The great contention among Rome aficonadoes: where’s the best coffee? Purists
favor Caffe Sant’Eutachio, which is all-coffee-all-the-time: drink your faultless
macchiato, buy your beans, read about the roasting, even – and admire the façade of
the church of the same name while you sip.
Those of a more social bent, though, can be found at Caffe della Pace, deep in the
rioneof Parione, which by day is a conventional café, but by night doubles as a bar,
lounge, and ground zero for flaneurs of all stripes. (The coffee, for the record, is
excellent.)
PLAY: PALAZZO COLONNA
Until recently, you had to be a VIP to access the private galleries of the Palazzo
Colonna, one of the grandest private homes in the city (Colonnas have lived here for
450 years; they’ve been Roman aristocracy for 800). It’s now open to the public, and
stuffed with an artistic patrimony that anywhere else would earn it its own museum
wing: Caracci, Bronzino, Tintoretto, and Veronese are just a few of the all-stars
whose work graces the ornate spaces. Have your hotel concierge book ahead for a
private tour on Saturday.
You know you want to tool around the Eternal City on a vintage Vespa like Gregory
Peck did in Roman Holiday (you know your teenager does). The folks at Scooteroma
Tours know too. You can simply explore the centro storicowith a guide, or you can
theme a four-hour excursion: taste pastries in Trastevere or cheese in the ghetto, for
instance, or follow the trail of the film *La Grande Bellezza.*They also do Fiat 500,
“ape” (a three-wheeled truck like a tuk-tuk) and bicycle tours.
DRINK: STRAVINSKIJ BAR
Some clichés pack a legitimate punch: on a mild Thursday or Friday evening in
spring or early summer, the Stravinskij Bar at the Hotel de Russie is one of them.
Sure, the drinks are fine, but that’s not what you come for: you come for the lush,
terraced garden and the social networking playing out among the Roman glitterati
(level of difficulty: Olympic, though of course, these being Romans, it looks
effortless).
EAT: MARZAPANE
Venture out to the slightly snoozy, northwest-of-central Pinciano district to have a
long lunch at Marzapane: the tasting menus – one of meat, one of fish – draw the
likes of former mayor Walter Veltroni, who’s a regular, as well as the city’s top food
critics, who all rave about its elevated versions of maialino and carbonara.
The majestic Galleria Colonna houses masterpieces of
absolute excellence painted by leading Italian artists.
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BED & BREAKFAST IN
BUDAPEST
If you are looking for lodging facilities, why not choose a bed and breakfast Budapest
accommodation, which promises you great comfort and peace for an unbelievable price?
There are many great family run B&B in Budapest where you can expect to get high level of comfort,
intimacy, relaxation and charm. Check some of the best hotels in Budapest in the bed and breakfast
category and pick the one depending on your requirements and budget.
AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION THERE ARE TRAVEL
RESTRICTIONS IN PLACE FOR VISITING THIS DESTINATION.
PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES AT
WWW.GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE
Written By Martin Mason
Photography: Julie Paice, Flavio Liotto
Autumn 2021 204 Autumn 2021 205
BED & BREAKFAST IN BUDAPEST
B&B
Butterfly Home Bed and Breakfast Budapest
This B&B in Budapest is certainly the best choice for everybody
who comes here for business, pleasure or just to relax. Located
in the heart of the city at a distance of only 200 meters from
the famous Vaci Street, the B&B is well-equipped with all the
facilities you can expect within the comforts of your home.
The amenities include Wi-Fi connection, computer, flat screen
TV and coach, refrigerator with water and snacks, bathroom
with big showers to name a few. Don’t be surprised to be
welcomed by professional and courteous B&B owners to the
contemporary and elegant environment of this accommodation
facility.
Lying within an easy reach from the tram and metro facility,
the Budapest B&B is located within a walking distance from
Hungarian National Museum. You can also visit the city centre
or Gellert Baths from here with ease.
If you want to spend a perfect evening, take a walk along the
banks of the Danube in the evening followed by shopping
and dinner in the nearby trendy restaurants and bars in the
neighbourhood, where you can enjoy delectable Hungarian
cuisines and alcoholic beverages.
As per the customers’ reviews, there cannot be any
accommodation better than Butterfly Bed & Breakfast in
Budapest. Right from the staff to the owner, from the rooms to
food, everything is very good here.
“
”
Right from the staff to the
owner, from the rooms to food,
everything is very good here.
Autumn 2021 207
Kapital Inn Bed and Breakfast
Budapest
Located in the 6th district of Budapest
in an elegant 19th century building on
its penthouse floor, this Budapest B&B is
a great place to stay in. Explore the best
historical, cultural and artistic sights of
the city while enjoying the comfort of the
bed and breakfast lodging facility.
The main attraction of this B&B is a 600
square feet terrace where breakfast is
served in a cosy atmosphere. It has got
nice interior exuding sophistication and
modernity. You can expect to receive
24/7 on site service during your stay
here. You can choose between deluxe and
standard rooms here.
Room amenities include central air
conditioning, “Rain Dance” shower for
2 people, complimentary mini bar, flat
screen TV with 75 channels, laptop with
free high speed Wi-Fi, DVD player with
DVD library, alarm clock, hairdryer,
books to read, complimentary laundry
service and house safe for valuables.
There is no elevator in the B&B, which
could be an irritant for some guests.
Other than this everything is so good
about this place that you would like
to stay here every time you come to
Budapest.
Brody House Bed and Breakfast
Budapest
This Budapest B&B offers different
apartments, hotel rooms and houses
modelled and furnished in the style of
Brody House. You would surely enjoy
your stay here, irrespective of the reason
of your visit to Budapest.
Brody house is a unique place, mixture
of a secessionist style building and
a modern looking interior design,
elegantly done by local artists. Every
room is singularly decorated with style
and unusual and marvellous finishing
touches. The staff are very friendly,
attentive and offer a lot of useful
information on what to see, where to eat
and what to do in the evening.
There are often cultural nights and live
music events at the bar club of the hotel.
Brody house promotes international and
local artists by showcasing their work
across their venues, and all the exhibit
works are available for sale. So, if you are
looking for a comfortable, cosy and out
of the ordinary place to stay, Brody house
might be what you are looking for.
B & B Bellevue Budapest
This is a comfy B&B in Budapest, located in
the World Heritage Area, offering a panoramic
view of the Danube, the Fishermen’s Bastion to
the east and the Parliament to the west. You can
easily access Downtown by metro or bus from
the hotel.
The amenities in rooms include air
conditioning, ceiling or table fans, secured &
free Wi-Fi, alarm clock, radio, mini fridge,
hairdryer, TV and cable, private bathroom,
sitting area and desk. Other regular services and
amenities are also available on site. It is a pet
friendly B & B.
The lodging facility lies in the residential area of
the Castle District, in proximity to Víziváros a
central area of Buda where you find everything
you need at hand. From here you can explore
walking the Royal Castle, art galleries, concert
venues, fine dining, live music places, churches
for religious services, Turkish baths and the
great Danube promenade on the Buda side
during your stay here.
This B&B in Budapest offers you all facilities
that make it a favourable option to stay. The
owners of BB Bellevue strive to make each of
their guests feel home, not only with their advice
on what to do or where to go but also with their
friendly and accommodating personality.
BED & BREAKFAST IN BUDAPEST
Trendy Bed and Breakfast
Budapest
This is a very modern and comfortable
Bed and Breakfast alternative located
on Oktober 6. Street. The place is in a
perfect location where you can walk to
the bus stops and train station, attraction
places such as Budapest Basilica, Váci
Utca, the Liberty square, Andrassy
Avenue, the Opera house, the Great
synagogue, the Chain Bridge and
different kind of restaurants in short
distances. Trendy Bed and Breakfast
is an apartment located in an old but well
kept traditional building of Budapest.
Its rooms are spacious, clean, well
equipped and comfortable. The rooms
are decorated in modern style: zebra
room, honeymoon suite, family room
and flowers room to choose from.
There is fast Wi-Fi Internet connection
and breakfasts contain all you need to
start your day with energy.
The only fact that could be considered a
disadvantage for some travellers is that
most rooms have no private bathroom.
A clean bathroom, a restroom, the living
room and the dining room are shared
areas with other guests.
Trendy Budapest is a convenient
choice for those who are looking for
comfort at affordable price.
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GOLDEN AGE
OF TRAVEL
Take an excursion into a world of pure
Golden Age
of Travel
indulgence this Autumn
W
GOLDEN AGE OF TRAVEL
hen you climb aboard the British Pullman train as it
rests by the platform in London Victoria, you take
a step back into time to the era of steam engines, comfort
and elegance. The train is the sister to the Venice Simplon-
Orient-Express - the mere mention of the name conjures
up images of the 1930s, resounding film music and Agatha
Christie’s famous detective, Hercule Poirot.
Everything about the train is what you would expect: superb
accommodation, and space to sit and enjoy one of the best
rail journeys you can enjoy in Britain. The “Golden Age of
Travel” is a circular rail trip through Kent beginning and
ending at Victoria. The journey gives you time to relax and
enjoy the delicious five-course meal served at your table by
the same smart stewards who greeted you on their platform
and showed you to your soft and well-upholstered armchair
seat at linen-clothed tables softly lit by silk lamps.
The food was delicious. It was well-prepared, beautifully served and
difficult to believe that the chefs had managed to be so successful in
the compartment kitchens you can check as you are encouraged to walk
through the train and enjoy the full Pullman experience.
As the train slowed to a halt for a leg-stretch in Whitstable a jazz band
played on the platform and passengers were invited to taste the town’s
famous oysters and wash them down with chilled champagne. In these
days of austerity it is fantastic to lose yourself in a day of indulgence for
a train journey that is all too soon over but like the food is a delightful
lingering memory.
We combined our train journey with an overnight stay at St. Ermins
Hotel in Victoria, a boutique four-star deluxe hotel nestled at the end of a
tree-lined courtyard in the heart of Westminster. The hotels interiors are
an attractive blend of period styles including white Victorian balustrades
and Art Deco furniture and patterns.
Sophisticated rooms also show Art Deco influences, with marble
bathrooms and p-to-date technology, including flat-screen TVs and iPod
docks. With an upscale restaurant and bar, St. Ermins offers high quality
at good value for money in a convent London location.
British Pullman lunch
The Golden Age of Travel British Pullman Lunch for two
costs £620.
The British Pullman lunches are available to end of
November, around two dates per month and usually on a
Friday.
Smart day wear is requested to be worn on board the British
Pullman - no jeans, men may wish to wear a jacket and tie
and passengers are encouraged to enter into the spirit of the
journey by dressing up in 30s’ styles.
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