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Magazine Hijab

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F

It’s hard not to relish the idea of this slight and really rather

kittenish woman, whose fashion imagination runs to the most

unexpected interpretations of existing typologies, sitting behind

a desk balancing the books. Though maybe we shouldn’t

be surprised. Her designs, after all, are the product of an

exacting mind.

R

ELEASES

Chitose Abe makes the fashion world use up all its superlatives at once with

her magical designs, which combine the key components of the classic wardrobe

in the most unconventional ways. But there’s nothing whimsical about her

talent, honed at Comme des Garçons; her entrepreneurial determination; or her

individualistic approach to expansion. Since 1999, the 48-year-old Tokyoite has

grown her three labels – Sacai, Sacai Luck and Sacai Man – at an elegantly dignified

pace: she only started showing on the Paris runway three years ago. That’s

when Karl Lagerfeld started sending her flowers.

A

S

H

I

O

N

High-end fashion has been in thrall to its own

heritage for quite a while now. Certain houses

– jigsaw pieces in powerful conglomerates

where big-name designers juggle legacy, relevance

and vast profit requirements (sometimes at the

expense of innovation) – can seem to be buckling

under their own weight. Bad news for some,

perhaps, but not for Sacai. Last February in Paris,

the independent Tokyo brand, known for its

intriguing hybrid garments in luscious colours,

stepped into the spotlight in the most spectacular

way. . “There are still a few days and several important

names left on the Paris calendar,” Phelps

went on, “but the new Sacai collection set the bar

very high today.”

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