Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine - December 2021

Hike to the top of Chapeau Carre for a panoramic view of Tyrell Bay and southern Carriacou,
Above: Dragon Bay on Grenada’s lee coast
is a prime spot for snorkeling.
Below: Grab a mooring at Sandy Island
and stroll the pristine beach.
Bottom: Fishermen at Paradise Beach, Carriacou.
Guess what the seaside restaurants here serve?
Sandy Island
An uninhabited strip of sand held together by a line of
tall palm trees and surrounded by bright turquoise water
that seems to stretch on forever, Sandy Island is a
popular getaway, and part of the Sandy Islands/Oyster
Bed Marine Protected area. Pick up a mooring if one is
available, otherwise anchor in sand if the rangers allow
it. The snorkeling here, especially toward the northern
end of the island, is excellent. Take some time to explore
ashore as well: a shallow lagoon created by blocks of
coral washed ashore during a hurricane is a nice place
to lounge on a float with a cold drink.
Paradise Beach
Across the channel in L’Esterre is Paradise Beach,
Carriacou’s most popular and idyllic beach. A cluster of
casual local bars and restaurants sits at the northern
end, along with Fidel, a boutique with local Caribbean
art, jewelry, and clothing in a brightly colored renovated
shipping container.
A little farther south, among the beach almond and
seagrape trees is Miss Alison’s Paradise Beach Club: a
bar, restaurant and cruisers’ social hot spot. She has a
water taxi, and will pick you up from any of Carriacou’s
anchorages. For a more local crowd check out the beach
bars at the south end of the beach; Banana Joe’s usually
draws an interesting crowd.
Hillsborough
For some local culture drop the anchor off Hillsborough,
Carriacou’s capital. Fruit and vegetable stalls fill the
spaces between variety shops selling a bit of just about
everything. The museum is an interesting place, though
it is partially closed for repairs due to termite damage.
While the Alexis supermarket in Tyrell Bay is the most
modern, American-style place to provision, there are a
number of good grocery stores in Hillsborough, and for
specialty items, deli meats and cheeses, fresh baked
goods, and good wines, don’t miss Patty’s Deli.
Bogle’s Round House / Sparrow Bay
Tropical garden beds surround Bogle’s Round House, a
fairy-tale like building, its domed roof and cobblestone
walls house this island’s best restaurant. Roxanne, the
chef, and her team prepare a range of excellent dishes
(the lamb shank is mouth-watering). It is a great place for
a romantic dinner or to enjoy a sunset cocktail. Anchor
in Sparrow Bay and dinghy ashore to the small beach,
where there is a path and stairs up to the restaurant. It’s
best to make a reservation.
Anse la Roche
Named for the large rock in the southern part of the
bay, this small anchorage is a wonderful day-trip stop.
The sandy bottom has good holding, or call Tim ([473]
415-3488) — who has a beach bar and barbecue
restaurant here where he grills up huge plates of fresh
seafood — and he can send a complementary water taxi
to pick you up from Sandy Island or Hillsborough.
Beaching the dinghy can be difficult when there is a bit
of swell, but you can call Tim for help.
There is a trailhead at the southern end of the beach
that takes you on a short but steep hike up to a gently
sloping grassy meadow with a breathtaking view of the
anchorage, Union Island, and the Grenadines beyond.
The path continues up the hill to the road, where there is
a trailhead to Carriacou’s highest point, High North. This
moderate to difficult hike is about three hours round trip
and best done with a guide; call the local Tourism office
([473] 443-7948) to arrange one.
• PETITE MARTINIQUE
The sail north to Petite Martinique (a.k.a. PM) is short,
but can be rough and into the wind. The anchorage here
is large, though often filled with fishing boats. Anchor
with care. Wander ashore and spend a couple hours
walking around. This is a quiet place, where sheep graze
in roadside pastures and life moves slowly.
A single road goes most of the way around the island;
follow it as far as you can and you should find a path up
the Piton, the island’s highest point. Keisha of Bamboo
Tours ([473] 535-0893) will be happy to guide you and tell
you all about the local flora and fauna.
For a good meal, book at Palm Beach,
facing the anchorage.
Lexi Fisher is co-author
of Sailors Guide to the
Windward Islands, available
at chandleries or from
www.cruisingguides.com.
Right: The shops
in Hillsborough have
a bit of everything!
Below: Petite Martinique boasts a long
and enduring ship building tradition.
DECEMBER 2021 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21
• ISLE DE RONDE
Isle de Ronde, between Grenada and Carriacou, is a
good lunch stop in fair weather. Snorkeling in the bay
and around the northern point is interesting, and gets
even better if you dinghy over to Sisters Rocks. There can
be strong currents, so be careful. There are a couple of
beaches surrounding the anchorage. Although beaching
the dinghy can be difficult in any swell, the best place is
the northern bay opposite Diamond Rock.
• CARRIACOU
Tyrell Bay
Tyrell Bay is the yachting center of the island, and has the
largest concentration of bars, restaurants, live
entertainment, and yachting services. Both of Carriacou’s
marinas are here, and it’s a good place to fill your water and
gas tanks if you’re running low. The large mangrove lagoon
is open to yachts only when there is a hurricane warning,
but it is a wonderful place to kayak or stand-up paddleboard.
Lambi Queen restaurant has good Italian-style pizza, and
often has live entertainment, as does DJ’s bar.