ESP_GG_N46-WEB

CAVA 

ALTA ALELLA, A CULTURE 

OF EXCELLENCE 

L 19045 - 46 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Winter 2021 

Josep Maria Pujol-Busquets, owner, winegrower and 

founder of Alta Alella with his biologist daughter 

Mireia Pujol-Busquets poised to take over 

PAGES 125-138 

OUR TOP WINES FOR 

WINTER 2021

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

– COLUMNS • REPORTS – 

8 

10 45 

111 

8 PERFECT HARMONY 

Cigars and Cape Brandies 

10 STYLES 

Champagne, where the variety of styles is endless 

15 RARE BOTTLE 

Champagne Maurice Vesselle 

24 BLENDING 

The fascinating success story of red wines from the southern 

Rhone 

36 INNOVATION 

Vins de France: The freedom to craft high quality wines 

45 TRAVEL 

Escape to Bordeaux, and visit some of its true gems 

52 WINE GROWER PORTRAIT 

From Entre-deux-Mers to the Médoc: Romain Roux, born to be 

an entrepreneur! 

56 DISCOVERY 

Cider: a whole host of choices waiting to be discovered 

64 RENAISSANCE 

Tokaj, at the dawn of a new era 

74 DESIGNATION 

Will changes to D.O. Cava help improve quality and sales? 

84 MARKETS 

Casa Santos Lima: Portugal’s standard-bearer abroad 

90 DISCOVERY 

Apulia and its wine revolution 

100 NEW APPELLATION 

Prosecco in the pink of health 

111 NEW VARIETIES 

Mother Nature sets the trends 

121 STARS & WINE 

Courteney Cox: “Just like in other areas, women bring a 

fresh perspective to wine” 

123 CONTACT DETAILS 

125 WINTER SELECTION 2021 

GILBERT & GAILLARD NEXT ISSUE SPRING 2022 

Cover: Courtesy of the estates 

WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 3

EDITORIAL 

– FRANÇOIS GILBERT – 

Editorial Director 

CAVA MAKES ITS ENTRY INTO THE 21 ST CENTURY 

The history of Cava admittedly began well after that of Champagne, but it 

is directly inspired by it. A clutch of wines from France’s Marne region began 

emerging in Spain at the turn of the 19 th century, and became a favourite tipple 

of the country’s well-heeled imbibers, particularly the royal family. Seeing this, 

Josep Raventos, the heir to wine cellars established in the mid-16 th century by 

Jaume Codorníu, took an interest in this style of wine and made several trips 

to Champagne in a bid to become proficient in the ‘Champagne method’. It 

is thought that he produced the first bottle of Cava in the year 1872. His son 

ingeniously chose to use, not Champagne varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot noir 

and Meunier – but Catalan grapes Parellada, Macabeu and Xarello, which 

distinctively shaped the character of the wine. Cava had finally been born and 

its development was consolidated by the First World War, which prevented 

Champagne from being exported for several years, boosting Cava sales in Spain. 

The DO was established in 1991 and the entire country was made eligible for 

the appellation. But in 2020, an in-depth reform led to a new classification 

comprising zones and sub-zones, along with new categories, Cava de Guarda 

and Cava de Guarda Superior. The issue is clearly about promoting the different 

vineyard sites of a wine whose industrial image had firmly taken root. But 

an image does not necessarily always reflect reality as our report on page 74 

followed by our Winter 2021 selection at the end of this magazine show. 

4 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

– PHILIPPE GAILLARD – 

Editorial Director 

PROSECCO ROSÉ BECOMES A HUGE HIT 

After racking up an incredible track record over the past decade, 

Venetian producers decided to capitalise on the global success of Prosecco 

by pulling another ace out of their sleeves – Prosecco Rosé. Leveraging the 

world’s love of Prosecco combined with that of rosé was nothing short of 

a stroke of genius, with pink wines still growing exponentially. Just for the 

record, global consumption of rosé wine has been constantly increasing 

since 2003, growing by 28% between then and 2018. In actual fact, many 

Prosecco producers had already ‘turned pink’, prompting the Consortium 

to make the very wise decision to officially endorse the existence of the 

rosé version, mainly to safeguard the reputation and awareness of the 

original Prosecco. Production specifications are precise, particularly for 

the varietal range. The production method is inspired by pink Champagne 

– Prosecco rosé is made from the traditional grape variety Glera, along 

with 10 to 15% Pinot noir fermented as red wine. Predictably, the new 

version has been a resounding success, in spite of the global pandemic. 

As soon as its first vintage was released, Prosecco rosé broke records, with 

over 54 million bottles produced out of a total 425.5 million bottles of 

Prosecco DOC in nine months, equating to 13% of overall production. 

And what better proof of the relevance of creating the new category… 


EDITORIAL 

– SYLVAIN PATARD – 

Editor in Chief 

CHAMPAGNE: A MATTER OF STYLE 

Above all else, Champagne is wine. The presence of bubbles, however 

appealing, sometimes seems to dull our ability to think. So, if you don’t mind, 

perhaps we should go back to basics, and investigate. Most of the grapes harvested 

in Champagne are Pinot noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, which are then 

crushed and settled – as white wines – then placed into tanks or barrels to 

ferment, again like white wines! Afterwards, the wines are blended to define their 

style. Batches of wines from that year’s harvest and different growths are carefully 

combined with reserve wines from previous vintages, shaping the profile of the 

wine to reflect the house style. There’s the first real clue! They are then placed 

into bottles – well, well – to promote a secondary fermentation which produces 

the bubbles. After disgorgement – which prepares them for marketing – the 

bottles are adorned with a label, a neck band and a cork stopper topped with a 

foil capsule and a wire cage. The secret’s out, all the clues point to one thing – 

Champagne is indeed a wine, and an incredible one at that. 

By drawing on the appellation area’s extensive 34,300-hectare vineyard, its 

identity can take on myriad aspects. But there is one hard and fast rule that 

cannot be broken, and that is the consistency of style encapsulated by its brand. 

This is the essence of this legendary wine which has long travelled the globe, and 

is also the topic of our major feature report in this issue. 


Cavavin N°46_Mise en page 1 27/11/2021 10:25 Page 1 

CHAMPAGNE BOLLINGER 

Spécial cuvée 

Champagne 

€ 42.90* 

DOMAINE EDMOND 

CORNU et FILS 

Corton-Bressandes 2017 

Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 

€ 100* 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR 

WINTER 

2021 

Stéphane RINGENBACH 

CAVAVIN FONTAINEBLEAU 

103, rue Grande 

77300 FONTAINEBELAU 

( +33 1 64 31 27 96 

* fontainebleau@cavavin.fr 

CHÂTEAU MONTROSE 2012 

2 e Grand Cru Classé du Médoc 1855 

Saint-Estèphe 

€ 134* 

Sylvie PINOUT 

CAVAVIN NANTEUIL-LES-MEAUX 

ZAC des Prés Saints-Pères 

77100 NANTEUIL-LES-MEAUX 

( +33 1 60 44 04 52 

* nanteuillesmeaux@cavavin.fr 

Xavier ASNAR 

CAVAVIN AUBAGNE 

50, avenur Roger Salengro 

13400 AUBAGNE 

( +33 4 86 33 50 86 

* aubagne@cavavin.fr 

CHAMPAGNE 

VEUVE CLICQUOT 

Brut Rosé 

Champagne 

€ 52* 

Patrick Malval 

CAVAVIN AUBIÈRE 

34-36, avenue de Cournon 

63170 AUBIÈRE 

( +33 4 73 24 55 95 

* aubiere@cavavin.fr 

* Retail price including sales tax 


PERFECT HARMONY 

– CIGARS AND CAPE BRANDIES – 

Don Rodrigo Cigars: 

tearing up the rulebook 

Patricia is Portuguese and now lives in Geneva, but her Don Rodrigo brand is named after her Spanish 

great-great-grandfather. We met an artist and entrepreneur with a love for life and people. 

By Sylvain Patard - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 

Her career path has been anything but linear. She 

started off as a flight attendant then ventured into 

the medical industry, speaks five languages and 

ended up in events and cigars by accident. Her 

motivation is simple: “Passion and empathy are 

what drove me to launch my own brand of cigars, after 

years of experience with Davidoff as an events hostess”. As 

a cigar enthusiast herself, Patricia would not only go on to 

establish her own brand, but successfully create extra special 

occasions for her clients by designing unique events at golf 

courses, luxury hotels and the most prestigious gatherings 

in Switzerland. “My audience is men and women who want 

to fully enjoy the finest things that life can offer and savour 

those exclusive, unforgettable moments with a cigar”. 

And increasingly, her target is younger people, the thirtysomethings, 

including many women drawn to a carefree 

range of very accessible formats. And it isn’t hard to 

understand why! 


PERFECT HARMONY 

– CIGARS AND CAPE BRANDIES – 

The range comprises four, very diffe rent formats that are 

hand-rolled: a Short Corona; a Robusto Extra; a Torpedo; 

and a highly unusual Figurado Short Salomon Bicolore. 

These are well-made cigars that are easy to light and burn 

THE DON RODRIGO RANGE 

consistently, making them the perfect choice for beginners 

as well as regular enthusiasts. The purpose here is not so 

much to seek out a powerful or complex cigar, but to 

enjoy a genuine smoke. 

– OUR RANKING – 

1. Torpedo - 2. Robusto Extra - 3. Figurado Short Salomon Bicolore - 4. Short Corona 

– OUR PAIRINGS – 

We decided to organise the improbable encounter between northern Hemisphere cigars and South African Cape 

brandies. These exotic brandies, created in 1672 by the Dutch, just like Cognac, show the same transgressive spirit as 

Don Rodrigo. The two are a match made in heaven! 

Torpedo 

Despite its impressive size, it in fact proved 

to be a very docile cigar – easy to light, with 

gentle smoke and initial notes of hazelnut 

flowing into roasted peanuts. Very delicate 

with beautifully consistent aromas and 

the last third more powerful yet balanced. 

A post-prandial style. €17 

Cape Brandies (Distell) 

96/100 – Richelieu Vintage Brandy 

Notes of hazelnut, smoke, fresh fruit and 

curry. Soft and elegant on the palate with a 

finish of roasted coffee. Gentle and refined. 

An excellent classic. €18 approx. 

The pairing 

A real fusion of aromas 

Robusto Extra 

Also a very regular draw as soon as it is lit, 

the smoke is powerful with no pungency. 

Soft, mellow characters rapidly establish 

themselves with quite elegant, heady, 

toasted, earthy aromas. In the heart of the 

cigar, savoury peppery notes emerge. This 

is a harmonious cigar for the start of the 

evening. €17 

Joseph Barry distillers 

92/100 – Muscat Cape Brandy 

Nose of grape, peach and apricot. The 

palate is fruit-forward, soft and elegant, 

with a more powerful finish offering up 

lifted Muscat-like aromas. €30 approx. 

The pairing 

A harmonious interaction 

showing composure 

Figurado Short Salomon Bicolore 

An unusual shape and two-tone wrapper, 

Ecuador and Connecticut. On lighting, notes 

of herbs and eucalyptus. Fairly slow start, 

gradually becoming slightly more powerful 

after the first third with notes of coffee, 

roasted coffee and cacao. Balanced, but 

quite linear. Leaves you wanting more! €18 

Tokara 

91/100 – XO Potstill 

Compelling nose of dried fruits and apricot 

with tropical notes of lychee and pineapple. 

Elegant and refined with a gentle finish. 

€80 approx. 

The pairing 

Exotic aromas in unison 

Short Corona 

Proves to be very co-operative with a 

regular and quite fast temperature build-up. 

The smoke is pleasant and regular and the 

ash is very consistent. The earthy, toast 

aromas are augmented by spicy notes on 

the finish. This is an afternoon cigar offering 

some great relaxation. €14 

Backsberg 

88/100 – Sydney Back 15-Year Brandy 

Nose of nutmeg and sweet spices. Elegant 

and gentle on the palate with a persistent 

after-taste of dried fruits on the finish. 

€48 approx. 

The pairing 

Very soothing, shared simplicity 

Don Rodrigo Cigars are distributed in Switzerland 


CHAMPAGNE 

– STYLES – 

The variety of styles can be partly explained by the 34,300 bearing hectares across 5 departments 

Champagne, where the 

variety of styles is endless 

We often wrongly refer to ‘Champagne’. With a history spanning over 300 years, 

the wines currently come from 34,300 hectares of vines, spread over 5 French 

departments. It follows that, although they share common character traits, styles 

should differ significantly. Before we meet an exciting line-up of winegrowers, 

merchants and co-operative producers who will share their viewpoints with us, 

let’s quickly go back over some of the basic tenets of Champagne. 

By Alain Echalier - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


CHAMPAGNE 


Reserve wines stored in magnums on the lees at Bollinger 

Due to climate change, Champagne can no longer 

claim to be home to the only vineyards in the 

North of Europe. Vines are now grown in the 

South of England, Belgium and Luxembourg, 

at even more extreme latitudes. But these wine 

regions are limited in size, whereas Champagne produces 

an average of 230 million bottles a year – at a latitude of 

49.5 North! So the first characteristic to remember, and 

which stems from a harsh climate, is the freshness in 

the wines. This is a direct consequence of very moderate 

sunshine – Reims has 1,629 hours a year, compared with 

2,069 for Bordeaux. 

DISTINCTIVE SOILS 

The second trait shared by Champagne wines comes from 

the geology of the sub-soils, which are mostly formed 

of chalk. Not only do vines thrive on chalk, which acts 

as a storage receptacle for water due to its permeability, 

it is also essential for those who drink Champagne 

because it imparts distinctive minerality. Obviously the 

sedimentary outcrops can vary, from chalk to marl and 

actual limestone. Admittedly, in the Côte des Blancs 

region near Epernay, the chalk forms outcrops, whereas it 


CHAMPAGNE 


Denis Bunner, deputy cellar master at Bollinger 

is deeper on the Montagne de Reims and in the Marne 

Valley the soils are more marly or siliceous. Generally 

speaking though, Champagne contains and displays a 

hallmark ‘chalk taste’. 

SPECIFIC TECHNIQUES 

To transform such lively juice and cope with the 

vagaries of the weather some years, Champagne 

producers use a specific method. The first fermentation 

turns the juice into still wine. Then time plays its part. 

By maturing these still wines, followed by a secondary 

fermentation in the bottle, the bubbles are formed but 

the wine also improves. Its sharp acidity makes way for 

appetising freshness. Also, the secondary fermentation 

produces more complex, idiosyncratic aromas which 

add extra palatability. 

Blending wines from different vineyard blocks, as well 

as batches of reserve wines from previous vintages, also 

opens up a complex array of aromas. Lastly, dosage – 

the final addition of sugar to balance the wine – offers 


CHAMPAGNE 


an opportunity for winegrowers to put the finishing 

touches to their work. Some use concentrated grape 

must, whilst others add mature wines, Cognac or honey 

from their own estate. 

This ‘recipe’, which has been copied countless times 

around the world, is called the ‘traditional method’. But 

Champagne is constantly mindful to ensure that it alone 

can call the technique the ‘Champagne method’. 

BOLLINGER: COMPLEX BLENDS AND SINGLE- 

VINEYARD AMBITIONS 

Bollinger, which is located in Aÿ, was founded in 

1829. It owns 178 hectares of vines and buys grapes 

in roughly the same proportions. Deputy cellar master 

Denis Bunner answers our questions. Formerly with the 

Champagne wine marketing board, as a winemaker, his 

first question after he joined Bollinger was, What is the 

Bollinger style? How can it be defined? 

Joint research work provided the answer – “fruit in all 

its phases”, in other words, fresh, ripe and dry. Fresh 

fruit aromas come from the year’s wines. To preserve 

them, the wines are made in stainless steel tanks. The 

ripe fruit aromas come from reserve and oak-fermented 

wines – the house uses a staggering 4,000 casks! Finally, 

the dried fruit aromas and toast can be credited to the 

reserve wines stored in magnums. This technique is 

novel because reserve wines are usually stored in large 

inert tanks. Here, though, they are stored on their lees in 

small containers of 1.5 litres with a cork stopper stapled 

in place. They then represent between 5 and 10% of the 

Spéciale label. The wine – the house’s non-vintage Brut 

– contains at least 60% Pinot noir and accounts for 80% 

of the range. It is stored for three years for the secondary 

fermentation and then around 6g per litre of sugar is 

added for dosage. 

Bunner explains how the ideal dosage is defined by 

tasting a flight blind where dosage ranges from 0 to 10g. 

Until fairly recently, dosage of 7 or 8g was the preferred 

choice, so why is it now only 6g? Quite simply because 

the base wines are naturally riper and require less dosage. 

This is just a tiny glimpse of the incredible work carried 

out in the winery, then blending by Bollinger. 

The house is also innovating. The vast majority of 

Barrels at Maison Bollinger which has its own cooperage 

The 4,000 barrels at Maison Bollinger 


CHAMPAGNE 


Besserat de Bellefon in the centre of Epernay, beyond 

the Avenue de Champagne 

its wines are blends of juice from different villages in 

Champagne. A very small number of labels, like the 

Vieilles Vignes Françaises or the Côte aux Enfants, 

a non-sparkling Pinot noir produced in the Coteaux 

Champenois area, are single-vineyard selections. But 

there is now an intermediary version – a single varietal 

Pinot noir blended from several vintages, but where the 

main growth is a village selected every year. The village 

is stated on the label, for those who can decipher it! 

‘PNVZ15’ means that the majority 2015 wine came from 

the village of Verzenay. This was also true of PNVZ16, 

with wine from the following year. But for the 2017s, the 

label still states PNXX17, because the choice of village 

has yet to be announced. Are these the first stages in a 

move towards a 100% single-vineyard wine? “Maybe”, 

smiles Bunner. 

Nathalie Doucet, chair of Champagne Besserat de Bellefon 

14 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

BESSERAT DE BELLEFON: QUALITY BUBBLES 

This old house, established in 1843, has belonged to 

the Lanson group since the 1990s and is now based in 

Epernay. Fifteen to twenty percent of the wines come 

from their own vineyards, with a balance stemming from 

supply contracts. 

Cédric Thiébault, the cellar master, has been with the 

house since 1999. First of all, he explains that the 

‘Besserat de Bellefon feel’ has now been extended to all of 

their labels. So what does it entail? Having a Champagne 

that looks creamy when you pour it into a flute glass, 

instilling greater lightness and silky mousse. How is it 

created? By deliberately reducing effervescence to around 

4.5 to 4.8 bar, when most Champagnes are around 5.5 

to 6 bar. The Champagne appellation does, indeed, allow 

producers to reduce pressure to as low as 3 or 3.5 bar. 

For lower pressure, less bottling liquor or ‘liqueur de tirage’ 

must be used during the secondary fermentation. The 

idea arose in 1930 as part of a process to producer lighter 

Champagne that could pair with an entire meal. Less gas 

does indeed lead to finer bubbles, as demonstrated by the 

scientist Gérard Liger-Belair. At Besserat de Bellefon, this 

technique was first reserved for the Cuvée des Moines, 

but has now been applied generally across the range. 

Similarly, the special shape of the bottle for this label has 

now been rolled out for the entire portfolio. 

Continue on page 16

TASTING 

TASTING 

— RARE BOTTLE — 

– RARE BOTTLE – 

CHAMPAGNE MAURICE VESSELLE 

EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU LES HAUTS CHEMINS 2011 

95/100 

Certified High Environmental Value since 2013, the vineyards belonging 

to this Champagne house are managed by two passionate winegrowers. 

The house is renowned for its mature vintages and vinous, food-friendly 

Champagnes. Grown along the southern slopes of the Montagne de 

Reims, the Pinot noir vines hived off for this 2011 Grand Cru fully 

encapsulate the complexity of their 100% classified site. 

The house was created in 1955 by 

Maurice Vesselle. His two sons, 

Didier and Thierry, now pamper 

their nine hectares of vines in Bouzy and 

Tours-sur-Marne all year round, as 

generations of winegrowers have done 

before them. They use techniques such 

as tillage, hilling up, ploughing back and 

soil amendments that were long 

considered fanciful. However, their quest 

for depth in the soils is now the envy of 

many wine regions. By taking such a 

conscientious approach to loosening 

their soils, the Vesselle brothers not only 

encourage the Pinot noir and Chardonnay 

vines to put down long-lasting roots, 

thereby revealing the full complexity of 

their Bouzy vineyard sites, they also limit 

the effects of drought and avoid the use 

of herbicides. 

When work in the vineyard is complete, 

the two growers transition to winemakers 

to produce their range of Champagnes. 

This Extra-Brut Grand Cru 2011 Les 

Hauts Chemins label is a single varietal 

Pinot Noir. It is fermented without 

malolactic fermentation like all the 

winery’s bottlings. This is a deliberate 

choice as it allows the wine to fully retain 

its freshness and minerality. It is then 

matured on lees in the estate's chalk 

cellars, alongside its collection of vintage 

Champagnes, before Extra-brut dosage 

(3.5 grams) is added. This Grand Cru 

displays a clear yellow-gold colour. The 

nose is mature and conjures up berry 

stone fruits. The palate is very full at 

point of entry with pleasant softness and 

tension carrying aroma over substantial 

length. This is a very fulfilling 

Champagne that should be set aside for 

only the finest delicacies. 

The site expressiveness of Bouzy is 

enhanced in this 2011 vintage, where 

bud-burst occurred early and the 

growing season was relatively short with 

a hot summer bringing harvesting 

forward to the end of August. Once 

again, Didier and Thierry have drawn on 

these conditions to produce a vintage 

Champagne which connoisseurs will 

enjoy for many years to come... 

Selected by 

WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 15 


CHAMPAGNE 


Cédric Thiébault, cellar master for Champagne Besserat de Bellefon 

The house’s signature style also involves not deliberately 

aiming for malolactic fermentation. It may occasionally 

occur in the bottle, but nothing is added to the wine to 

promote it, allowing it to stay fresher. This is a tack taken 

by increasing numbers of winegrowers, as pointed out by 

the cellar master. 

Here too, dosage is decreasing. Whereas 15-20 years 

ago, 11 to 12g of sugar were added before the bottle 

was permanently closed, that amount is now nearer 

to 8g. Customers are increasingly knowledgeable and 

Besserat de Bellefon targets a specific audience of 

educated connoisseurs which it reaches out to via topend 

restaurants and wine merchants. 

The non-vintage Brut, named ‘Bleu Brut’, is matured for 

three years and contains 50% reserve wine and the three 

classic grape varieties. But unlike many companies, at 

Besserat de Bellefon it only represents 50% of sales. The 

Elegance line, which comprises a Blanc de Blancs made 

from Grand Cru village wine, accounts for a quarter 

of sales. The house has kept an entire range, including 


CHAMPAGNE 


some oddities. Although it does not have a Demi-Sec, 

the Brigitte Bardot label – mainly shipped overseas – has 

20g/litre dosage! “But it uses Pinot noir planted due 

North”, points out Thiébault. Which means, there is no 

excessive sweetness on the palate. 

MANDOIS – ORGANIC AND INVENTIVE 

Champagne Mandois is an old, no, a very old familyrun 

company whose roots date back to 1735. Its current 

incumbent is 60-year-old Claude Mandois who runs the 

business. He represents the ninth generation and returned 

to work with his father in 1982. The company is located 

in Pierry and boasts 37 hectares, 33 of them farmed 

organically. However, it takes three years to guarantee 

the soils are residue-free and Champagne is a timeconsuming 

wine to produce, so the first certified bottles 

will not be released for sale until 2024. The summer 

of 2021 was very wet, even if the Côte des Blancs and 

the Côte de Sézanne, where Mandois’ vines are located, 

were not the worst affected in Champagne. Mandois 

refused to succumb to the temptation of spraying his 

vines to combat mildew, however. Never mind the lower 

volumes, the family has stocks to fall back on. This is a 

winegrower with strong principles. 

Here, the non-vintage Brut represents 50% of sales. 

Due to its location, the house’s Blanc de Blancs – a 

2016 vintage Premier Cru – also sells well. The style is 

delicate, not massive, with good length – which is exactly 

what Mandois likes. Tillage of the soils also guarantees 

enhanced freshness in the wine. Dosage is 6g/litre, 

compared with 12g just twenty-five years ago. Lower 

levels of sugar are now the new norm. For Mandois, there 

are several explanations for this. Firstly, the wines are 

riper due to climate change and harvesting of riper fruit, 

so there is no longer the need to offset overpowering 

acidity. Similarly, the share of reserve wines in the blends 

has been increased here too, from 20 to 40%, and reserve 

wines always have slightly lower acidity than the latest 

vintage. Finally, consumer tastes have changed. Elitists 

do not want sweetness. Although Mandois still produces 

a Demi-Sec, it is mostly designed for loyal and older 

customers. 

The house also produces Clos Mandois, a small-batch 

Claude Mandois, the 9 th -generation representative of the family of winegrowers 

The entrance to Clos Mandois and its Pinot Meunier 


CHAMPAGNE 


Pruning Mandois vines in 2021 

Dom Caudron keeps some old presses and equipment to show its visitors 

label totalling 3 to 4,000 bottles made from a block of 

Pinot Meunier vines. Surrounded by a wall, hence the 

name, the vineyard is located in Pierry on the southern 

hillsides of Epernay, the traditional home of Meunier. 

Classified as a Premier Cru, the wine is naturally rich 

in sugar and acidity, which is great for producing topend 

wines. Matured for at least ten years, it is stoppered 

with a cork closure, spends some time in large casks, is 

stirred, non-filtered and does not undergo malolactic 

fermentation. Mandois describes it as an ‘after dinner’ 

Champagne. Why? Because the complexity of the wine 

reveals itself with time, once it has been served in a large 

glass and warms up a little gradually. So it requires time 

to be savoured, which means there is no better time to 

enjoy it than in the evening. 

Lastly, a pair of wines – Cuvee Nord, from Chouilly, and 

Cuvée Sud, from Vertus – are sold in a unique gift box. 

The idea is a novel, educational way of demonstrating 

the difference between the two sites. 

DOM CAUDRON AND ITS PINOT MEUNIER 

This is a story well worth telling. At the turn of the 20 th 

century, Aimé Caudron, the abbot of the village of Passy- 

Grigny and a lover of fine fare, suggested to the village’s 

grape producers in whose homes he loved to make merry, 

that they join forces and make their own Champagne. 

In 1929, the Dom Caudron co-operative was founded, 

combining the resources of the 23 winegrowers. Others 

would later join the company. Mathilda Tedeschi, a new 

recruit tasked with the co-op’s PR, explains that there are 

now 90 growers, all of them based in the original village 

or nearby. 

This is the Marne Valley, with its marly, clayey or 

sandy soils. Pinot Meunier, which is better equipped to 

withstand the challenging weather, is the most widely 

grown variety. It produces supple, fruity wines which 

mature slightly quicker over time. 

The co-operative predictably describes itself as a “Meunier 

conjugator”. The Prédiction label is a non-vintage, single 

varietal Meunier Brut, with a small share of reserve wines 

but mostly the 2018 vintage in its current version. Its 

dosage is 9g. There is another single varietal rendition of 

Meunier made from vines over fifty years old, which is 


CHAMPAGNE 


Mathilda Tedeschi from Dom Caudron 

not that commonplace in Champagne. The more developed 

root system produces more complex juice and therefore wine 

for the prestige blend. 

The co-operative also produces another Blanc de Noirs, 

entirely made from Meunier but half of which spends time in 

oak casks. This is quite unusual because use of oak is still a rare 

occurrence in the region and requires a very delicate touch. 

This is why the barrels are first saturated with water and the 

wines are regularly stirred. The resultant label, Cornalyne, is 

matured for 7 years and also has Brut dosage. It is designed as 

a food-friendly Champagne pairing with rich gourmet foods. 

The co-operative’s last offering is a blended Meunier rosé 

– fermented as a white and a red wine, with a touch of 

Chardonnay – which rounds off the range. Dosage is once 

again 9g/litre. 


CHAMPAGNE 


Gobillard’s cellar door facilities 

A sandstone tank for the new Gobillard Champagne 

J.M. GOBILLARD & FILS, 

AS BROAD-RANGING AS EVER 

Thierry Gobillard, who is just over 60, is now at the 

helm of this family-run company which produces over 

1.5 million bottles of Champagne a year. Although they 

do own 33 hectares of vines, the Gobillards buy contract 

fruit from the equivalent of 160 hectares of vines spread 

across the entire Champagne region and managed by a 

trading company. A significant share, however, comes 

from Hautvillers and the surrounding area. The house 

also runs a nursery. The family’s ancestors, Jean-Marie 

and Françoise Gobillard, began producing Champagne 

vines and this has been pivotal to their success. 

The business itself is based in Hautvillers, the village 

of the famous Dom Pérignon. In fact, the illustrious 

neighbour is buried in the village church and the abbey, 

along with his tomb, attract tourists from across the 

globe. This has prompted the Gobillards to open cellar 

door facilities for their Champagne, very nearby, where a 

broad range of Champagnes can be tasted. The decision 

has paid off because nearly 7% of the company’s revenue 

comes from direct-to-consumer sales. 

Thierry Gobillard explains that the company has always 

marketed an extensive range of Champagnes, so that 

they can be shown from every aspect. The non-vintage 

Brut therefore only accounts for a third of sales and has 

to compete with no fewer than ten other labels, not to 

mention the classic Ratafia made from pomace brandy 

and fresh grape juice. Producing such a large range 

requires a similarly large winery and countless tanks. It 

also makes the winemaking process complicated. The 

portfolio includes a Blanc de Blancs and a Blanc de 

Noirs, a vintage Champagne, the Cuvée des Moines – a 

Champagne matured in oak – and a rosé. It also produces 

a demi-sec Champagne recommended for drinking with 

desserts. 

But there are also the more off-beat labels. “People 

love something new”, explains Gobillard. The house 

obliges with Cuvée 5, an unusual blend where the three 

usual Champagne suspects that are Chardonnay, Pinot 

noir and Pinot Meunier rub shoulders with the much 

less familiar Arbane and Petit Meslier. These historic 

grape varieties, too, are permitted as per Champagne 


CHAMPAGNE 



The Gobillard family clan

CHAMPAGNE 


Odilon de Varine and his deputy Gabrielle Malagu 

Odilon de Varine blending the wines 

regulations. A Cuvée 6 is also in the making, and will 

feature some Pinot blanc. 

With forty years of his life devoted to wine, Gobillard 

reviews the major trends. “You have to follow fashions”, 

says the frank company director. “Yes, obviously sugar 

content has dropped and dosage is tending to head 

towards Extra Brut levels”. Another aspect is singlevineyard 

selections. Eloge du Chardonnay was already a 

Blanc de Blancs label and the company’s first foray in this 

direction. But in 2022, the house will release a Premier 

Cru label sourced from an old vine vineyard site. The 

wines are matured in sandstone tanks to add complexity 

to the aromas. 

GOSSET, WHERE THE WINE MATTERS, 

NOT THE BUBBLES 

This long-standing trading company – Aÿ 1584 – is now 

owned by the Cointreau family. The fruit is all bought 

under contract, points out cellar master Odilon de 

Varine. As the house’s winemaker, he also specifies that 

every tasting is always conducted blind. And contrary to 

what people commonly believe, the share of Chardonnay 

now prevails over that of Pinot noir. 

Malolactic fermentation is carefully avoided for all the 

wines. Tartaric acid and malic acid naturally occur in the 

grapes so there is a duty to preserve them. “Ageing on 

the lees is what gives the wine palate weight”, he stresses. 

“Similarly, Champagne is first and foremost wine, the 

bubbles are just one of its components. The vineyard site 

and time spent on the lees are what matters”, he claims. 

“The wine is what matters, not the bubbles! Let’s not talk 

about the bubbles”. 

The Grande Réserve is Gosset’s non-vintage Brut. Its 

bottle is an exact replica of the one used by the family in 

the 18th century. It accounts for approximately 45% of 

sales. “It is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot noir with a 

touch of Pinot Meunier. Reserve wines only account for 

15%”, explains de Varine. That’s because the Champagne 

method involves ageing on the lees. The reserve wines are 

usually stored in tanks and used in small amounts, like 

spices for cooking. Dosage is around 8g/litre. 

The Extra Brut label is new to the range. “Yes, a lot of 

people want lower dosage, for a number of reasons”, 


CHAMPAGNE 


Odilon de Varine, the cellar master at Gosset 

adds de Varine. “In fact, for the Brut, dosage is in the range of 5 

to 8g, whereas it used to be 11 to 12g. In reality, however, not 

everyone necessarily enjoys very low dosages. Fashions come 

and go”. At Gosset, unlike some of the large houses, dosage has 

never been adjusted for different export markets. The Extra Brut 

is made from a different blend – mostly Pinot noir and Pinot 

Meunier from the Epernay area, grown on soils with chalky 

outcrops. In this case, malolactic fermentation, which reduces 

the perception of acidity, is possible. It produces balance on 

the palate whilst displaying very light dosage. The bottle used 

is therefore different. 

Celebris is the company’s high-end line, matured for at least 

twelve years. So why not state the disgorgement date on the 

back label? “Most Champagne is not stored by consumers, 

but in our case, it is”, says de Varine. “This wine really is only 

produced in outstanding years, vintages when the freshness 


CHAMPAGNE 


The charming Gosset facilities in Epernay 

was special. Admittedly, after disgorgement the gas will 

gradually be released. But after a while, the bubbles have 

served their purpose. The important part remains the time 

spent on the lees!” 

BARFONTARC, 

THE FRUITINESS OF PINOT NOIR 

This curious name stems from that of three villages – BARoville, 

FONTaine and ARConville in the Côte des Bars region, in the 

very South of Champagne. It is here, in 1962, that winegrowers 

partnered to create a co-operative near Bar sur Aube. Nicolas 

Vallée, the new sales manager since April, explains that the 

co-op is a crush facility for others and markets the equivalent 

of thirty or so hectares under the Barfontarc brand. The 

company has remained relatively independent, and that’s what 

its members like. “Some of our co-operative growers are now 

third-generation. Their number stays the same and the spirit is 

still local, and humble”. 

The region has its own distinctive climate. Vallée, who lives 

in Reims and makes the daily journey to Bar sur Aube, never 

knows what to expect when he reaches his destination. The 

region’s Pinot noir has structure, but less than in the Montagne 


CHAMPAGNE 


Nicollas Vallée, sales manager with the 

Barfontarc winery 


CHAMPAGNE 


The Barfontarc co-operative winery 

de Reims. Its predominant trait is its fruitiness, and its 

sun-ripened characters. The Champagnes are therefore 

more easy-drinking, he points out. Pinot noir is the 

dominant grape here, accounting for 95% of the varietal 

range. The Brut Tradition thus inevitably contains 80% 

Pinot noir, with a balance of Chardonnay, and accounts 

for approximately 80% of sales. The bottles currently 

being marketed have a backbone of 2016 vintage wines, 

with 24% reserve wines. “Four years’ maturation for 

a non-vintage Brut has become rare”, stresses Vallée. 

Particularly when it has a price tag of €22. The reason 

for this is that most of the cooperative’s members are 

winegrowers, and don’t have another job. They are 

therefore mindful to keep their Champagnes affordable, 

so their pricing policy is deliberately restrained. 

The Blanc de Noirs label, made entirely from Pinot 

noir, could almost be a non-vintage Brut because of the 

level of fruitiness in the Pinot noir. Despite this, it is 

powerful and works particularly well with Parma ham 

or parmesan. 

Just before Covid, building work was carried out on the 

co-operative so that it could welcome visitors and serve 

its Champagnes with local produce. The house’s priority 

is about spending time welcoming visitors, remaining 

accessible, reaching out to all audiences, providing 

consensual wines and making people want to hold their 

flute out for a second glass, all of which contribute to its 

style and image. 

The Barfontarc winery welcomes visitors with open arms 

THE MYRIAD ASPECTS OF CHAMPAGNE 

Evidently, there are countless ways of hitting the 

right notes and as many instruments to do it with. 

Consequently, it is difficult to refer to ‘Champagne’ and 

more relevant to speak of ‘Champagnes’. Do you prefer 

the laser-sharp freshness of a Blanc de Blancs? Or the 

delicate balance and complexity of a Champagne by a 

prominent house that has matured for several years? Do 

the full body and vinous aromas of a Blanc de Noirs take 

your fancy? Or rather the gratifying flavours of an Extra 

Dry or a Demi-Sec? The magic of this extensive wine 

region is its ability to provide an extensive array of wines, 

where everyone can effortlessly find what they’re looking 

for, both in terms of style and price points. 


MAKE SOME ROOM IN YOUR LOUNGE FOR 

WINE REGIONS FROM AROUND THE WORLD 

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RHONE VALLEY 

– BLENDING – 

At Domaine Martin harvesting is a crucial time for the wines 

The fascinating success story 

of red wines from 

the southern Rhone 

For several decades, red wines from Drôme and Vaucluse have been well-received 

by the public. Restructuring work began in the vineyards and is already reaping 

rewards with fresher, less oaky, palatable reds that consumers are embracing. 

By Christelle Zamora - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - © DR - © Christelle Zamora - © Alain Reynaud 


RHONE VALLEY 


Château Isolette is a 45-hectare vineyard located in the Luberon national park, between the Rhone Valley to the North 

and the Côtes de Provence region 

Bought in 2018 by well-heeled Polish investors Mariusz 

and Marta Gawron, Château Isolette in the Luberon 

is undergoing major restructuring. With forty-five 

hectares under vine, thirty of them entitled to Luberon 

appellation status, this very old estate located between 

Bonnieux and Apt sells the balance of its wines under the Ventoux 

appellation and as varietal wine labelled IGP Méditerranée. 

Over the last twenty years, explains estate director Olivier 

Rouquet, the profile of the wines has changed: “The Luberon 

used to grow a lot of Carignan, which we have grubbed up and 

replaced with Syrah and Grenache. Consumers want rounded, 

tannic wines, so maturation in large and small barrels is reserved 

for age-worthy wines”. 

Most of the estate’s red wines are tank-fermented. Its high-end 

offerings can be matured for 18 to 24 months, but the estate’s 

signature style is to steer clear of overt oak influence: “For our 

reds, our priority is to preserve the fruit and roundness, so barrels 

are only used to micro-oxygenate the wine. We use French wood 

from the Tronçais forest (in the Allier region) with a very tight, 


RHONE VALLEY 


Views out over Château Isolette’s vineyards, between Bonnieux and Apt 

in the Luberon appellation area 

fine grain and delicate toast”, adds the property’s technical 

director. At Isolette, oaky wines are set aside for a small 

clientele of enthusiasts. 

Current restructuring of Isolette’s vineyards implies 

replanting Mourvèdre. Rouquet believes that adverse 

weather is making Mourvèdre a great ally for red wines 

because it is a late-ripener. The variety counterbalances 

alcohol levels in the earlier-ripening Grenache, and 

although Syrah seems to be adapted to drought conditions, 

its alcohol content can be high, whereas Mourvèdre makes 

a great blender. 

The varietal trio Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre will 

produce the red Rhone wines of the future, although leaf 

removal and irrigation will be required to rein in alcohol. 

At Château Isolette, everyone is busy replanting five 

hectares of vines. 

Château Isolette, recently bought by Polish investors, 

is the oldest estate in the Luberon 

THREE PRIORITIES FOR CÔTES DU RHÔNE 

Denis Guthmuller is the chairman of the Côtes du Rhône 

and Côtes du Rhône Villages producers’ organisation 

and since 2014, he has also co-chaired the economic 

committee at Inter Rhône, the regional wine marketing 

board. Originally from Alsace, he has been farming forty 

hectares in Sainte Cécile les Vignes, Vaucluse, with his wife 

Florence since the late 1990s. His sense of public duty 

quickly led him to a number of collective tenures. He was 

chairman of the Cave Cécilia co-operative winery for many 

years before it merged with the co-operative in Cairanne, 

which he now co-chairs. He converted his family farm to 

organic in 2009, and took a proactive role in establishing 

the South-East France organic wine marketing board in 

2019, which he also chairs. 

Although his work at the head of the producers’ organisation 

is a seamless transition from his previous tenures, Denis 

Guthmuller has set himself several priorities. The first is 

to boost winegrowers’ income through yields, a key factor 

in profitability, while maintaining a high level of quality. 

His second priority is to ramp up activities that favour 

protection of the environment and biodiversity. His goal 

is anything if not ambitious, and that is to make the 

Côtes du Rhône appellation a national benchmark for 

sustainability. He feels the Rhone climate is relatively 

conducive to ethically-focused environmental practices 


Olivier Rouquet at Isolette 

RHONE VALLEY 


and that this is a genuine opportunity to enhance the image of 

Rhone winegrowers. His third priority is to review the profile 

of the wines, across the colour spectrum, to adapt to global 

warming but also to meet the expectations of tomorrow’s 

consumers. 

THE SOUTHERN GRENACHE-SYRAH DUO 

In the Rhone Valley, many appellations and growths have 

overhauled the aromatic profile of their wines, both blends 

and single varietals. Vinsobres is one such example. The wines, 

which were very full-bodied in the 1990s, are now fruitier 

and fresher. Great efforts have been made in Cairanne, where 

the grapes must be harvested by hand, old vines are seen as a 

legacy that needs to be protected, grape sorting is mandatory 

and very few sulphites are added. 


RHONE VALLEY 


A Grenache vineyard at Domaine Martin in the 

southern Rhone Valley 

In Rasteau, the dry red wines are very structured and 

aromatic, with Grenache, the main grape variety, 

imparting abundant roundness. Old-vine Grenache 

produces wines with a silky tannic backbone and aromas 

of ripe fruit and spices, whereas Syrah lends the dry reds 

an intense colour and appealing notes of black fruit, 

violet and pepper. Although Grenache is the most widely 

planted grape variety in the southern Rhone, Syrah is the 

dominant variety in the northern Rhone Valley. Here, 

it is fermented as a single red grape variety, although it 

can be grown alongside the white Viognier in Côte-Rôtie 

and with Roussanne and Marsannne in Saint-Joseph and 

Hermitage. In Cornas, Syrah is grown as a single varietal 

across the 136-hectare appellation. The very pronounced, 

long-standing dichotomy between Syrah in the North and 

Grenache in the South of the Rhone valley is still true 

today. Syrah has gained currency in the cooler southern 

and Languedoc vineyard sites in the Pic Saint-Loup and 

Terrasses du Larzac appellations, where it is preferred to 

Grenache, unlike in the southern Rhone. 

In the southern Rhone Valley and at Châteauneuf du Pape, limestone shards 

lend the wines at Maison Ogier elegance and pronounced minerality 

JUDICIOUS USE OF WOOD 

Founded in 1859, Maison Ogier - which belongs to the 

Advini group - is based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the 

heart of the most prestigious of the southern French 

appellations. In order to interpret the subtle variations 

in the vineyard sites in the Côtes du Rhône, Ogier has 

honed its knowledge of the appellation’s soils - pebbles, 

fawn-sands, red sandstone, limestone fragments – and 

then adapted its fermentation and maturation techniques 

accordingly. Its century-old cellars house more than 8,000 

hl of wooden tanks, tuns, demi-muids, barrels and conical 

wooden vats. But this in no way implies that the wines are 

over-oaky. Quite the contrary. “Although each label has 

its own identity, our fruit is co-fermented (several grape 

varieties in the same vat) to produce unique balance and 

complexity through this intimate fusion of grape varieties. 

Although some of our wines are matured in concrete 

tanks to preserve fruit, most of our red wines benefit from 

being matured in oak barrels to preserve their typicity 

whilst at the same time gaining in finesse and freshness. 

The northern growths, which are mainly Syrah-based, 

spend some time in new oak, as do some of our southern 


RHONE VALLEY 


Edouard Guérin, the winemaker at Maison Ogier 


RHONE VALLEY 


David and Eric run Domaine Martin together 

appellations (Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape) for up to 6 to 

8 months depending on the quality of the vintage”, comments 

Edouard Guérin, the winemaker at Maison Ogier. 

For the other growths, the choice of demi-muids is preferable 

so that vineyard site selection can continue to be built upon. 

As larger containers, they allow very low oxidation-reduction, 

whilst small interactions with the wood beautifully enhance 

structure and promote the wine’s finesse and velvety feel. The 

length of maturation varies from 12 to 24 months, depending 

on the potential of the wine. 

“So our red Côtes du Rhône starts an initial phase in concrete 

tanks, before moving on to large wooden containers such as 

tuns or conical vats to refine the tannins”, adds Guérin. At Ogier, 

the cellars are as much part of the company’s heritage as its 

vineyards, enhancing each wine, according to the vintage, and 

lending it that much sought-after drinkability. 

Between Vaison la Romaine and Orange in Vaucluse, David and 

Eric Martin took over the namesake family estate twenty years 

ago. Their ambition was to grow bottled wine sales and exports. 

The two first cousins are the great-grandsons of founder Julien 

Martin who established the estate in 1905. 

They currently farm 78 hectares of vines in Côtes du Rhône, 

Côtes du Rhône Villages (Plan de Dieu, Sainte Cécile les Vignes) 

and in the Rasteau and Cairanne growths. Specifications for the 


RHONE VALLEY 


appellations stipulate that Grenache must account for 

40 to 50% of the varietal range, with Syrah and Mourvèdre 

complementing the blends. The estate currently sells 

250,000 bottles, including 80,000 bottles of generic Côtes 

du Rhône, half in France, half for export to England and 

the United States. The Plan de Dieu village-designated 

appellation is a roaring success across all markets. The 

wine is matured in old tuns bought by the cousins’ 

grandfather over 60 years ago, where the majority of their 

wines are matured. “We only use second-use wine barrels 

to mature Cairanne for 3 to 4 months to differentiate it 

from the other wines. This produces light oaky notes that 

preserve the fruit”, they explain. 

CONSUMER TASTES HAVE CHANGED 

At Domaine Martin, David and Eric Martin have noticed a 

change in consumer habits. “Twenty years ago, consumers 

were looking for tannic wines and would let them age. 

Nowadays, they prefer wines that are not very mature 

and fruit-driven. Because of urban storage facilities, not 

everyone can let the wines improve with age”, comments 

Éric Martin. In export markets, he is pleased to sell his Côtes 

du Rhône Plan de Dieu in Kenya via an airline company. 

He also claims that since the appellation was officially 

recognised in 2004, its sales have grown incrementally. 

Domaine des Arches near Nyons is a family farm that 

has been growing a range of crops for six generations. 

Ideally situated on the road to the Alps, between Vaisonla-Romaine 

and Nyons, it farms 14 hectares of vines in 

AOP Côtes du Rhône and sells 15,000 bottles locally. 

The estate’s patriarch, Daniel Ravoux, explains that in 

very hot years, which are increasingly frequent, the wines 

have very generous alcohol levels and need to be matured 

before being released for drinking. He remains convinced 

that the wines are much better and much more enjoyable 

when they are drunk at their peak. But consumers and 

wine merchants alike are pressing him to produce earlydrinking 

wines. As the family waits for its vines to be 

classified as Côtes du Rhône Villages Nyons, there is one 

major reason for it to rejoice, and that is the progress in 

the quality of Rhone wines. And when you spare some 

thought for the age-old style of the region’s wines, you 

realise what a quantum leap has been achieved. 

Eric Martin in his vineyards 

The vineyards at Domaine des Arches on the land around 

Mirabel-aux-Baronnies in the Provencal part of Drôme 


Tasting wines at Domaines Auriol 

VINS DE FRANCE 

– INNOVATION – 

Vins de France: 

The freedom to craft high 

quality wines 

Vins de France have torn up much of the rule book that dictates the way 

appellation wines are made. However, the category should not be viewed as a 

downgraded version of AOCs. Among its key features are some high quality, 

differentiated wines, as shown by our survey of winegrowers and merchants... 

By Jean-Paul Burias - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - © Antoine Martel 




Harvesting in September 2021 at Bougrier family estates 

From the amphorae of Antiquity to the major 

appellations of today, the wine market has evolved 

over time to satisfy consumer demand. In what is now 

a global sea of wine ruled by fierce competition, where 

the Grands Crus reign supreme, for many winegrowers 

success lies in the ability to produce distinctive, easy-drinking, 

quality wines at competitive price points. That’s where the 

Vins de France category comes in. Although it does comply 

with production rules, the conditions are not strictly laid out 

by law to include demarcated production areas, minimum 

alcoholic strength, maximum yields, vineyard management 

techniques or analytical and aroma and flavour standards. 

What the wines do offer is the promise of spending some 

enjoyable, relaxing moments with others. Vins de France 

allow winemakers to get their creative juices flowing, but they 

also require specific marketing teams, especially overseas. 

Very often, future customers are not familiar with the category 

and have no real benchmarks. Winegrowers must therefore 

ramp up their sales pitch and promote wines that deserve to 

be known and have already garnered success in restaurants 

and export markets. 




Sophie, Noël and Nicolas Bougrier 

FAMILLE BOUGRIER: 

A COMPREHENSIVE RANGE 

Famous for its fine Loire wines, the Famille Bougrier estate, 

created in 1885, produces remarkable Vins de France. 

Noël Bougrier took over the company reins in 1988 and 

successfully gave the family estate fresh impetus by extending 

its coverage to the entire Loire Valley. He was joined in 2015 

by a sixth generation of winegrowers, his son Nicolas, then 

in 2020 by his daughter Sophie. “We have been working 

with the Vin de France category for a long time with a 

comprehensive range of historic Loire Valley grape varieties 

- Sauvignon blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin blanc, Gamay noir 

and Pinot noir”, explains Nicolas Bougrier. “The aim is to 

offer an introductory approach to our vineyard sites with 

easy-drinking, fruit-forward, fresh wines. Through their 

easily understandable positioning that combines the estate, 

a grape variety and France, we aim to recruit new consumers 

with these wines for pleasure”. The flagship grape varieties 

of the Loire Valley have found their audience. Concurrently 

with this, the estate has launched more unusual wines 

for the French market and export destinations. “Exports 




represent 85% of our markets”, says a delighted Sophie 

Bougrier. “However, we are also driving sales of our ranges 

in the French market where the prospects are good, there is 

good feedback from our customers and our Vins de France 

are reaching higher price points”. 

BARTON & GUESTIER: THE JOY OF EXPORTS 

The story of this key component of French wine heritage 

began in 1725 when Irishman Thomas Barton settled in 

Bordeaux. He was soon considered one of the 18 th century’s 

best maturers of French wine. Today, Barton & Guestier 

continues to select, produce and ship the finest French 

wines and exports account for 95% of its sales. “Our 

wines show the hallmark features of their appellations 

and grape varieties”, explains Philippe Marion, deputy 

director of Barton & Guestier, Patriarche and Listel. “Our 

international presence requires us to develop qualities 

catering to the major consumer markets in the world. 

Vin de France helps us to do this. The strength of these 

branded wines lies in their consistency and quality 

stability”. Rosés, Pinot noirs and, more broadly speaking, 

all the grape varieties that are difficult to source in a 

single region are best sellers, with top-end wines currently 

on-trend. “The grape variety is the number one cue, the 

brand ranks second and the price third”. 

Philippe Marion, deputy director of Barton & Guestier, 

Patriarche, Listel 

DOMAINES AURIOL: A HISTORY OF PASSION 

As a child, Claude Vialade would accompany her father 

Jean in the vineyards and cellars of Château de Pech-Latt 

where he was the manager. After studying business, this 

passionate wine enthusiast began her career distributing 

wines in the international market for a producers’ group. 

After a stint as manager of the Corbières appellation, she 

created her own company in 2000. Today, Domaines 

Auriol is a superb standard-bearer for Languedoc wines. 

“Our Vins de France have a Mediterranean profile and 

the vast majority have an environmental endorsement”, 

explains Vialade. “Occitanie wines offer the flexibility 

to adapt to each market. Also, the ability of company 

executives to think outside the box and drive innovation, 

securing good international recognition, should be 

commended”. For the estate, marketing a wine under 

the Vin de France designation offers greater latitude to 

adapt each offering to its destination market in terms of 

sweetness, oakiness or tannins. 

Claude Vialade and Jordi Salvagnac, operations director at 

Maison Auriol 




Laurent and Jean-Michel Poiron, two brothers in the trees 

DOMAINE POIRON-DABIN: A FAMILY AFFAIR 

Set in the heart of the Muscadet appellation, Domaine 

Poiron-Dabin has also carved out a reputation for itself 

for its remarkable Vins de France. Here, vine growing 

has been in the family since 1858. In 1962, Jean Poiron 

married Thérèse Dabin who added her name to the 

estate. In 1990, their sons Laurent and Jean-Michel 

joined them until their respective retirements in 1999 

and 2004. On this 69-hectare High Environmental 

Value-certified (HVE) estate, the two brothers produce 

wines from the Nantes region across a superb variety 

of colours and aroma profiles by drawing on an 

extensive range of 15 grape varieties, including Melon 

de Bourgogne, Chardonnay, Côt (Malbec), Berligou, 

the noble grape variety of the Dukes of Brittany, and 

Pinots gris and noir used to produce white, red, rosé 

and sparkling wines. “Our Vins de France are primarily 

fresh wines for pleasure”, says Jean-Michel Poiron. 

“They are unpredictable, surprising and sometimes 




even disconcerting wines for the region due to their 

novel grape varieties such as Gewurztraminer and Petit 

manseng”. Matching the current zeitgeist, they ride the 

crest of modernity and align with genuine demand for 

instant gratification and moreish pleasure. “Producing 

novel grape varieties gives another meaning to our 

profession as winegrowers by rooting our vineyard sites 

firmly in the modern age”, continues Laurent Poiron. 

“Our Vins de France are bold yet delicate, and thanks 

to them, we are currently developing our business in 

Asia. Our choice of labels, which are both humorous 

and modern, helps promote them. In fact, the only 

challenge lies in the fact that they are niche wines that 

are difficult to promote at their true value”. 

BADET CLÉMENT: THE KEYS TO SUCCESS 

The fifth-generation representative of a family of 

Burgundy producers and merchants and an acclaimed 

winemaker, Laurent Delaunay founded the Badet 

Clément trading company with his wife Catherine 

in 1995. Marketing 16 million bottles each year, two 

thirds of which are exported to more than 50 countries, 

the company specialises in producing and marketing a 

broad portfolio that includes appellation wines from 

Burgundy and Languedoc, PGI (Protected Geographical 

Indication) wines from Languedoc and several ranges 

of single-varietal Vins de France. “In general, we aim to 

produce precise, elegant, well-balanced wines with good 

drinkability”, says marketing and communications 

director Emmanuel de Salve. “They all benefit from 

very carefully designed packaging down to the smallest 

detail. This attention to detail, from the vine to the 

bottle, obviously comes at a cost and their price points 

are slightly above the average for their category”. Within 

this broad range, the successful brands belong as much 

to the Vins de France category – including La Belle 

Angèle – as to the IGP category such as Les Jamelles or 

Burgundy appellations with Edouard Delaunay. “Vins 

de France are not destined to be stuck at the bottom 

of the ladder”, claims de Salve. “Numerous initiatives, 

both within our company and among our colleagues, 

prove that these wines can be successfully marketed 

at price points on a par with or higher than those for 

recognised appellations”. 

Catherine and Laurent Delaunay, the founders of Badet Clément 

Winemaking and ageing facilities in Monze, Languedoc 


Nicolas and Sophie Bougrier 

Laurent Prada in Patriarche’s cellars 

Jean-Claude Bougrier in his 

vineyards in 2010 

Maryline Gianna, winemaker for Patriarche 

Jordi Salvagnac of 

Domaines Auriol 

tasting wines 

Claude Vialade, the founder of Maison Auriol 

Laurent and Jean-Michel Poiron in front of their van 

Mathieu Paquet of Paquet-Montagnac tasting wine in his cellars 

Catherine Delaunay in the cellar where 

some of her wines are matured



DOMAINE DE L’ERMITAGE: 

MENETOU-SALON GEMS 

Laurence de la Farge has a major connection with the 

Menetou-Salon appellation. Her father, Bernard Clément, 

was one of the founders of the Appellation d’Origine 

Contrôlée in 1959. In 2003, with Géraud de la Farge, she 

created Domaine de l’Ermitage. She was joined on this 

9-hectare vineyard, 7 of them planted to Sauvignon and 

2 to Pinot Noir, by her son Antoine. “The reason I am 

winegrower today is because of my grandfather who has 

always shared his passion for growing wine with me”, 

recounts Antoine. “We produce pleasurable, gratifying 

wines that illustrate the terroir of each appellation and 

show distinctive finesse and freshness. In a niche wine 

region with rare wines offering good value for money, 

the key is quality and food pairing possibilities that 

run the gamut. Here, Vins de France have found their 

audience”. Exports generate 25% of revenue and are 

growing on the back of new markets. 

Madeleine, vineyard supervisor at Domaine de l’Ermitage 

PAQUET-MONTAGNAC: 

BEAUTIFULLY EXPRESSIVE 

Mathieu Paquet has complete control over his wines and 

likes to convey the history of a region and vineyard sites 

but also of encounters with others and shared pleasures. 

His trading company, Paquet Montagnac, distributes a 

wide range of Burgundy, Beaujolais, Rhone Valley and 

Provence wines, as well as Vins de France. “These are 

expressive, accessible and ready to drink wines with nice 

freshness”, stresses Paquet. “Our objective is to promote 

the Burgundy grape varieties, Pinot and Chardonnay, by 

offering affordable prices as well as sizeable volumes for 

foreign markets”. The strategy has been highly successful, 

and with 98% of sales in export markets, the brand has 

now secured global recognition 

REVOLUTIONISING CONVENTIONAL CUES 

It took a long time to overcome the image of entry-level 

table wine, particularly in France, but that page has now 

been turned. Admittedly, some consumers seek out the 

authenticity of estate-grown wines when buying French, 

and often an appellation is a bonus. But swelling ranks 

of consumers are convinced that they can find real gems 

elsewhere and for them, the Vin de France category is no 

longer viewed as a basic category but as a complementary 

Antoine de la Farge in his vineyards at Domaine de 

l’Ermitage 




Mathieu Paquet who founded Paquet-Montagnac 

gateway to terroir-driven wines. Some labels are priced in 

excess of 15 euros, their quality alone allowing them to 

break through the glass ceiling. By promoting vineyard 

sites located outside recognised appellation areas, Vins de 

France have everything it takes to grow and attract novice 

consumers who feel lost amidst a complex sea of French 

appellations. Vins de France also offer almost limitless 

freedom for creatively blending new or forgotten grape 

varieties. At the core of a crowded and competitive market 

place, they provide a timely alternative to the major 

appellations. Their choice is both broad and varied, with 

wines that are often fruity, easy-drinking and versatile 

from a food pairing perspective, matching every drinking 

occasion. At the end of the day, the quality of the wines and 

strength of the brand make all the difference. 


Sweeping vistas of the Tour Castillon vineyards 

opposite the Gironde estuary 

BORDEAUX 

– TRAVEL – 

Escape to Bordeaux, 

and visit some of its true gems 

Of all the world’s wine regions, Bordeaux is home to the most prestigious wines, 

but their crown is studded with some true little gems. Although less eye-catching, 

they have the ability to take you by surprise. From the Graves to the Médoc via 

Saint-Emilion, we offer a glimpse of what to expect. 

By Camille Bernard - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


BORDEAUX 


Nicolas Ballande, owner of Château Palais Cardinal 

Some 9,000 winegrowers call the Gironde department home, 

working year in year out to offer wine enthusiasts the 

best of their expertise. Across nearly 120,000 hectares 

spanning myriad sites, they perpetuate over 2,000 years of 

winegrowing traditions. This variety allows Bordeaux to run 

the gamut in terms of wine styles, which each appellation harnesses to 

form a consistent yet unique whole. Over the years, these appellations 

have witnessed the birth of wines that are so prestigious that their 

reputation now comes with a hefty price tag. 

Pomerol, Saint-Emilion and Margaux, to name a few, are the cradle 

of properties that are so renowned that their reputation spills out 

over national borders and has helped garner Bordeaux’s global 

acclaim. But just a stone’s throw from these standard-bearers, on the 

same soils whose quality is unrivalled and undisputed, are estates 

producing wines that are admittedly lesser-known but can hold their 

own in comparison with their neighbours. Tended to by men and 

women showing faultless determination and passion, these properties 

successfully combine quality and accessibility so that consumers can 

indulge, without breaking the bank. On our trip across Gironde, 

we met some of these winegrowers who think outside the box and 

make a point of producing elegant, no-fuss wines. These are wines 

that manage to offer an honest, elegant rendition of their distinctive 

vineyard sites, yet remain affordable. To achieve this, some producers 

have freed themselves from appellation rules to gain greater freedom 

in terms of varietal choices, whilst others have enthusiastically made 

the demanding commitment to switch to organic. Whatever the tack 


BORDEAUX 


taken, none of them lack ideas for revitalising the image of 

Bordeaux wines. The following is a selection of some real 

gems that deserve your whole-hearted attention. 

CHÂTEAU PALAIS CARDINAL: 

WHERE INNOVATION SHOWCASES TRADITION 

Château Palais Cardinal is an integral part of Saint-Emilion’s 

heritage, and rightly so. “The wine property dates back to 

1843 and is named after Cardinal Gaillard de la Motte who 

helped extend it in the 16th century and matured his wine 

here”, recounts Nicolas Ballande, its current owner. 

Although vines have always been grown here, “the vineyards 

reached a turning point between 2008 and 2019 when 

they increased from 4 to 30 hectares”. The plantings have 

gone hand in hand with implementation of sustainable 

winegrowing techniques for 12 years, making the estate 

eligible for HVE 3 and Terras Vitis certifications. The 

Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vines, 

whose average age is 40 years old, thrive on the local 

soils where biodiversity is the norm, reverting to “farming 

wisdom similar to that of our great-grandparents, aimed at 

protecting us from the vagaries of the weather”. 

Here, a return to tradition does not preclude the use of 

innovation. The fruit is sorted using a density meter, the 

wines undergo cold pre-fermentation soaking, the tanks 

are temperature controlled and the wines are matured in 

concrete tanks, barrels or even amphorae depending on the 

vintages. The result is four unique labels where the mineral 

expression of the soils is the avowed aim, “with differing 

focuses on power”. Consequently, there is something 

for everyone, across the globe. “Our wines are mostly 

distributed through a network of wine merchants and 

restaurateurs in France, Belgium, Italy, South Korea, Japan, 

Hong Kong, the Philippines, Germany, the United States, 

New Caledonia, Tahiti and Austria”. 

The tasting room at Château Palais Cardinal offers panoramic views of the 

estate’s vineyards 

CHATEAU TOUR CASTILLON: 

AGE-WORTHY WINES 

Although the history of Chateau Tour Castillon is closely 

linked to that of the Viscount of Castillon, who developed 

winegrowing here in the 11 th century, the present-day 

vineyards are the legacy of four generations who have 

been the property’s incumbents for over a century. “My 

great-grandfather acquired the property in 1914”, recounts 

Laure Peyruse, its co-owner with her brother Sébastien. He 

The vineyards of Château Tour Castillon 


BORDEAUX 


Laure Peyruse, owner of Château Tour Castillon 

produces the wine, she is its ultimate ambassador through 

the wine tourism business she has grown over the past 

twenty years. 

“For a long time, vines grew amidst the cows, so the soils 

are replete with fertilisers”. A dozen or so hectares of 

Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot 

and Carmenere now thrive here under the AOC Médoc 

Cru Bourgeois appellation. The property’s environmental 

ethos advocates “a hands-on approach to maintaining the 

vineyards so that the high quality sites that we have been 

given in an ideal location opposite the Gironde estuary 

can be sustained for the future.” This attention to detail 

is applied in the winery too, where the wines undergo 

lengthy, bespoke vatting before being matured in barrels 

or amphorae. 

“This allows us to produce elegant, gratifying wines which 

are designed to be enjoyed in their youth but are also very 

age-worthy. These are wines with staying power.” 

Although they can be found in the estate’s online store, 

they are also exported to Canada, the United States, Japan 

and China. 


A hot-air balloon display at Château Palais Cardinal 

The magnificent wrought-iron gates 

at Château Palais Cardinal 

Château Palais Cardinal shrouded in clouds 

A visit of Chateau Tour Castillon for wine tourists 

The barrel cellar and amphorae at Château Tour Castillon 

A tasting of wines by Château Tour Castillon along the Gironde estuary

BORDEAUX 


Château Tourteau Chollet 

CHÂTEAU TOURTEAU CHOLLET: 

“THE QUALITY OF A GRAND CRU” 

Located South of Bordeaux, Château Tourteau Chollet 

boasts a history spanning over 260 years. It began in 

1760 when Etienne Tourteau planted the first vineyard 

block on deep gravel soils. The years passed and the 

vineyards more or less weathered a series of industry 

crises. Since the turn of the 21 st century, they are in the 

capable hands of Maxime Bontoux. 

“In 2003, Maxime realised that climate change was an issue 

and planted more suitable varieties such as Petit Verdot and 

Malbec”, explains Sébastien Labails who manages Maxime 

Bontoux’s vineyards. On the property’s 56 hectares under 

vine, the two grape varieties reside comfortably alongside 

the more traditional Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, 

Sauvignon blanc and Sémillon vines. From these, five 

different labels are produced under the AOC Graves 

appellation and one as AOC Bordeaux. “Our wines spend 

the summer in concrete tanks to preserve their freshness 

and for the reds we use pre-fermentation soaking at low 

temperatures to develop their primary aromas”. 

This sensitive approach to winemaking creates the signature 

style of Tourteau Chollet wines where “elegance is always 

aimed for”. Work carried out beforehand in the vineyard is 

just as essential. After pioneering the use of environmentallyfriendly 

techniques, the estate continues to roll out ecological 

initiatives and began to switch to organic last April. 

This environmental pledge enhances this exquisite 

vineyard site, producing wines that “show the quality of 

a Grand Cru” and are sold in France, Benelux, the United 

States and Hong Kong. 

− 

Arriving at Château Tourteau Chollet surrounded by vineyards 

DOMAINE DE LAURANCEAU: 

THE ART OF TRADITION 

On the high quality clayey soils South of Bordeaux, the 

Montagne family has been growing vines since 1890. 

“My great-great-grandfather bought a few hectares a long 

time ago”, recounts Sébastien Montagne, representing the 

5 th generation. “Land was bought over the years and the 

vineyards were acquired at Lauranceau in 1976”. 

45 hectares are now farmed by Montagne who has “not 

used pesticides since 2018” and is entering his third year of 

conversion to organic farming. Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Sauvignon, Sémillon, Colombard and Muscadelle are now 

spared of any chemical inputs, from the vine to the bottle. 


BORDEAUX 


Sébastien Montagne improvises a tasting at Domaine Lauranceau 

All work in the winery is carried out traditionally. Here, “there is no 

thermovinification”, but rather cold maceration followed by vatting 

then maturation in underground tanks along with barrels sourced from 

a Grand Cru Classé. “We use great quality wood”, which undeniably 

lends the wines the remarkable balance that sets them apart. That’s 

not the only reason, however, as Montagne conscientiously adapts 

his winemaking methods to suit each individual vintage. So from one 

year to the next, barrel maturation can “be up to 18 months” with the 

wines subsequently blended with “varying amounts of wine from the 

underground tanks”. In terms of sulphites, “I prefer to keep the carbon 

dioxide to avoid using sulphites as much as possible”. By tweaking his 

wines in this way, Montagne crafts some lovely offerings bound for the 

French, Chinese and American markets. 

Some properties help Bordeaux wines to flourish in their own subtle 

but sure way. Some of them have allowed us in so that we can hear 

their story, told with passion and humility. These treasured wineries 

offer more than just wine. Their winegrowers willingly share their love 

of the land and endeavour to preserve its environmental integrity. These 

vineyard sites, the repositories of several centuries of winegrowing, 

have something exceptional and unique which their growers strive to 

safeguard and show off. Men and women create infinite combinations 

of time-honoured wisdom and entrepreneurship, constantly innovating 

to offer the finest renditions of their vineyards. They also provide an 

excellent opportunity to discover Bordeaux in a different light. 


BORDEAUX 

– WINE GROWER PORTRAIT – 


Romain Roux in his Médoc 

vineyards at PuyCastéra

BORDEAUX 

BORDEAUX 

- WINE GROWER PORTRAIT - 

– WINE GROWER PORTRAIT – 

FROM ENTRE-DEUX-MERS TO THE MÉDOC 

ROMAIN ROUX, 

BORN TO BE AN ENTREPRENEUR! 

The four chateaux are his pride and joy. 

You can’t help but like Romain Roux. Possibly a little gruff, by his own admission, but 

this immediately disappears behind his loquaciousness, his joviality and his ability to 

listen to others. After dreaming of a career in finance, he ultimately chose a job that 

brings him down to earth every day. And he certainly is not complaining. 

By Sylvain Patard – Photographs: © Sylvain Robin 

Romain Roux did not want to be a winegrower, and he 

explains why: “It’s hard work, and not necessarily 

well-paid. But if you can make a living out of it, it’s the 

best job in the world”. He actually wanted to become a 

trader. “I sleep very little and I used to take great pleasure in 

watching stock markets open around the world”. 

Unfortunately, in 2000, his father had a serious health 

problem, so after passing his Baccalauréat, Roux attended 

agricultural college so that he could help him at the end of 

his course. “I realise now that because of this, I have been 

able to spend time with my family and my childhood friends 

every day, whereas if I had found a job in finance in London 

or somewhere else, I would probably have only seen them 

once a year”, he admits. 

COMPANY DIRECTOR AT 26 

In 2005, he considered no longer working with his father 

because of a disagreement. In the end, his father suggested 

he establish a company that Roux would manage, realising 

that his son needed independence and only one person 



BORDEAUX 

BORDEAUX 

- WINE 

– WINE 

GROWER 

GROWER 

PORTRAIT 

PORTRAIT – 

- 

“Being a winegrower is hard work and not necessarily wellpaid. But if 

you can make a living out of it, it’s the best job in the world”. 

could head up the business. Roux comments: “This took me 

by surprise because he has a strong personality, but in his 

mind things were clear. He realised that this was the 

preferable option for the business to be successful. So at 

age 26, Roux’s journey began. Aiming to succeed at all costs, 

he spared no effort and worked all hours. He expanded the 

business by picking up his phone and calling supermarket 

buyers, which he gradually brought on board. Then he 

started exporting, which raised issues. The business was 

growing strongly, but how should it develop? What 

opportunities should be considered? After an audit 

designed to shed light on these issues, he decided to 

diversify by purchasing Château Taffard de Blaignan (Médoc) 

in 2013. In just five years, the property was totally overhauled 

and went from 21 to 68 bearing hectares. It was sold in 2018 

to buy three other chateaux, representing four brands: 

Plagnac, Pontey, Holden and Puy-Castéra. The latter of these 

was not really on the agenda, but its location near the 

prominent Médoc properties blew Roux away. The challenge 

henceforth was to produce the finest wines, whilst 

honouring the inherent features of each vineyard site. Plagnac 

is a Médoc offering everyday luxury, as Roux so eloquently 

defines it, retailing for between 5 and 7 euros. The wines are 

relatively early-drinking and therefore quickly accessible, 

which is a strategic asset. Pontey is denser, more earthy and 

complemented by beautiful tannin finesse imparted by a 

share of new oak and 90% Merlot, which is very rare in the 

Médoc. Roux has learned a lot from Pascal, who is tasked 

with winemaking and will soon retire. But the future lies with 

27-year-old Etienne, a winemaker and agricultural engineer, 

whom he has recruited to manage the three properties. As 

Roux says: “He has the technical background and an 

innovative vision that I don't necessarily have”. 

Holden is part of the Puy Castéra vineyards (11 hectares). It 

is more animal and wilder, but also very fruit-driven. Puy 

Castéra itself epitomises fullness, finesse and elegance, along 

with lovely concentration guaranteeing ageability. Eighty 

thousand bottles are produced and there is even a second 

wine: L'Octave de Puy-Castéra. The name is both a nod to 

music and to his wife's grandfather. Laboratory and 

consultancy services for the wine are provided by Eric 

Boissenot who has long partnered with the greatest Médoc 

chateaux. Roux has not rested on his laurels and has ventured 



“The most important 

thing is to have a 

“The most important 

vision, a project and 

thing is to have a 

challenges to 

vision, a project and 

address”. 

challenges to 

address”. 

Romain Roux was 

blown Romain away Roux by was 

PuyCastéra. blown away by 

PuyCastéra. 

The environment 

is The a core environment issue 

at PuyCastéra, 

is a core issue 

where at PuyCastéra, 

bee hives 

stand where close bee to hives 

the stand chateau. close to 

the chateau. 

Combining 

Combining 

rugby 

rugby 

and 

and 

wine, 

wine, 

his 

his 

two 

two 

greatest 

greatest 

passions. 

passions. 

into into other other prestigious appellations, with with the the same same core core aim aim 

of of moving moving upmarket and and diversifying. He He now now owns 2.8 2.8 

hectares in Saint-Estèphe, 0.8 0.8 hectares in in Pauillac and 0.3 

hectares in in Margaux. 

MAKING PEOPLE HAPPY 

When When asked asked what what his his next next dream is, is, his his answer is is above all all 

that that of of a a husband and and father, which is is to to spend time regularly 

with with his his wife wife and and children. But But from a a professional 

perspective, the the hyperactive Romain Roux immediately 

waxes waxes lyrical lyrical about about his his forthcoming projects. He He plans to to 

establish establish a new a new brand, brand, Provenance, labelled IGP IGP Terres du du 

Midi, Midi, across across the the colour colour spectrum spectrum and and including boxed 

wines, wines, with with 10 10 million million bottles. bottles. And And as as he he concludes 

pragmatically: 

pragmatically: 

“My 

“My 

main 

main 

dream 

dream 

is 

is 

to 

to 

make 

make 

people 

people 

happy, 

happy, 

which 

which 

makes 

makes 

me 

me 

happy 

happy 

too. 

too. 

But 

But 

I'm 

I'm 

not 

not 

just 

just 

a 

a 

philanthropist 

philanthropist 

either”. 

either”. 




CIDERS 

– DISCOVERY – 

At the height of the season, over one million tonnes of apples are harvested 

at the Cidrerie de la Brique, before being crushed so that the juice can be collected 

Cider: a whole host of choices 

waiting to be discovered 

Ciders are the perfect match for current drinking trends. Great for socialising, 

relatively low in alcohol, inexpensive and less mired in the pomp and circumstance 

that accompany wine tasting, they attract a wider clientele. 

Nine prominent French cider firms explain why. 

By Jean-Paul Burias - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - © Thierry Houyel - © Alice Bertrand 


CIDERS 


In the west of France, the orchards of Normandy and 

Brittany are part and parcel of the landscape. This year’s 

apple harvest started quite late – at the beginning of 

October – and volumes are lower than in previous years 

due to a dull summer and adverse weather conditions. 

This is bad news for an industry providing 15,000 jobs 

and boasting 600 cider works, which has already had to 

cope with the pandemic and a drop in stocks. Cider is 

rooted in French tradition and has many assets. Produced 

by fermenting apple juice, its flavours and low alcohol 

content, ranging from 2 to 8% ABV, are a magnet for 

consumers. In France, apple orchards account for a quarter 

of all fruit orchards, equating to 35,000 hectares, 9,000 

of which are planted to specific varieties for producing 

cider. At less than 2 litres per year per capita, French cider 

consumption is significantly lower than for wine or beer. 

This can be ascribed to its highly seasonal nature – sales 

peak at the beginning of the year and in the summer, and 

outside Brittany and Normandy consumption is relatively 

low. The marketing board and several brands have grasped 

the nettle by rolling out PR campaigns to promote cider 

and broaden the consumer base. We met the main players 

in a market that is decidedly bubbly! 

The La Sapinière cider works 

LA FERME DE LA SAPINIÈRE: 

A PASSION FOR CIDER 

Near the D-Day landing beaches and the American 

cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer, the orchards belonging to 

Philippe and Michel Legallois invite visitors to discover the 

Ferme de la Sapinière. The two ‘flavour artisans’ have been 

producing Pommeau de Normandie, Calvados, apple juice 

and of course cider since 1991. “Our organically-farmed 

orchards are home to 35 different varieties of cider apples”, 

says Michel Legallois. “The ciders are vintage-labelled 

and produced by natural fermentation in the bottle with 

no added carbon dioxide”. Here, customer relations are 

prioritised. Cellar door sales account for 70% of the total 

and exports 4%, mainly to Germany, Belgium and Mexico. 

Apple Oak is a naturally fermented cider. It matures for the 

first 5 months in tanks, then it ferments in relatively new 

Cognac barrels. The resultant cider shows distinctive balance 

between fine tannins and acidity, delicate effervescence and 

a long finish driven by notes of mature spirits. 

Michel Legallois of the La Sapinière 


Loïck and Jean-Marie Gouret from Cidrerie Kerloick 

CIDERS 


CIDRERIE KERLOÏCK: HEIRLOOM RECIPES 

Loïc Gouret and his wife Anita established their business 

in 1999 before being joined by their son Jean-Marie in 

2016. This Breton cider works farms 40 hectares of organic 

orchards. About fifteen varieties of apple trees are used 

to produce structured dry ciders showing intense aromas, 

as well as medium-dry and sweet ciders which display 

distinctive lightness and fruity flavours on the palate. “As 

an orchard owner and producer, we can control every 

stage of production”, stresses Jean-Marie Gouret. “All our 

farmhouse products, ciders, juices and spirits are made 

on our farm”. Exports account for 10% of volumes and 

are tending to grow due to the care taken across the 

different ranges. 

CIDRERIE VIARD: THE REGIONAL FORCE 

Three kilometres from Bayeux with its medieval centre, 

Notre-Dame cathedral and famous namesake tapestry, the 

Viard cider works is one of the oldest family-run businesses 


CIDERS 


in Normandy. Established in 1932, it houses a superb 

18th century farmhouse. In this enchanting setting, the 

company honours its native Normandy with full-flavoured 

ciders. “Our ciders are made from apples harvested less 

than 60 kilometres from the farm”, explains sales manager 

Vanessa Sagot. “We select the most aromatic varieties and 

only press apples of excellent quality. The Guillaume, 

Odon and Edouard labels are defined by controlled 

fermentation using exogenous yeast customarily used 

for wine, which develops specific aroma and flavour 

characteristics. These are exceptional ciders, which we 

rated 93, 92 and 90/100 respectively. 

CIDRERIE KERISAC: 

THE FAMOUS CENTENARIAN 

In the Guillet family, expertise and tradition are passed 

down through the generations. In 1920, Jean-Edmond 

Guillet founded a company focused on producing cider 

– his ambition was to spread traditional Breton knowhow 

outside his regional boundaries. A century later, 

Laurent Guillet, his great-grandson, is the sales director 

of a company with a staff of 40 which has a made a 

pledge to protecting the soils and orchards. “Our ciders 

show hallmark fine bubbles, freshness and tannins”, he 

explains. “Our blends are produced from typically Breton 

apples”. Cellar master Marion Dubarry makes fresh, 

complex ciders. The dry, sweet and traditional dry Cuvée 

spéciale stems from a unique production process with 

lengthy maturation in tanks that harks back to the roots of 

traditional cider making. 

Sébastien Malherbe and Margaux Desheulles tasting cider at the 

Bayeux cider works 

LES CELLIERS ASSOCIÉS: EXPORT FOCUS 

This cider co-operative is one of the key industry players. 

In 1953, 12 apple producers from the Val de Rance 

area combined their production and marketing resources 

driven by a passion for excellence. On 5 hectares of 

land along the banks of the Rance, Les Celliers Associés 

boasts 355 member producers and 115 employees. This 

environmentally-friendly cider cooperative is France’s first 

to be certified High Environmental Value. Its generous, 

well-structured Val de Rance ciders feature on the menus of 

many restaurants and across 50 countries. There is a valid 

explanation for its export success: “Our ciders are defined 

Marion Dubarry, the cellar master at Kerisac tasting 

the newly fermenting juices 


CIDERS 


by their typical flavours”, comments export sales manager 

Philippe Coignat. “Each market has its own preferences 

and the work of our cellar master Alain Le Page allows 

us to closely align with our customers’ expectations. For 

example, our dry ciders show a hint of tannin entwined 

with a touch of sourness and a refreshing aftertaste, due to 

a blend of sweet, bitter-sweet and bitter apples that have 

very little acidity. The resultant aromas are ripe fruit with 

hints of herbs and spices”. 

Val de Rance cellar master Alain Lepage 

LES CELLIERS DE L’ODET: SOUL BROTHERS 

Three brothers, Guillaume, Joseph and Mathieu Jan, 

united by a brotherly bond and unrelenting quest for 

excellence, run Les Celliers de l’Odet. Set on a 13th century 

estate, Château Lézergué overlooks a superb 35-hectare 

orchard established by their father in 1990. Their ciders’ 

perfectly balanced sweet and sour flavours regularly win 

them awards. “They show trademark length on the palate”, 

stresses Guillaume Jan. “The powerful polyphenols in our 

apples make them rich and powerful. Depending on our 

choice of blends, varieties and fermentation temperatures, 

the cider can be dry, mineral, full-bodied and fleshy or 

sweet, mellow and spicy”. Although dry cider is the most 

popular in France, extra-dry is very successful in the United 

States and sweet cider in Japan. 

The three Jan brothers Matthieu, Joseph and Guillaume at Celliers de l’Odet. 

CIDRERIE DE LA BRIQUE: 

AT THE CORE OF NORMAN CIDER 

Since 1953, promoting Norman cider has been part of 

the genetic make-up of Cidrerie de la Brique. Exports 

represent 20% of revenue with the ciders shipped to over 

20 countries. “Our goal is to promote Norman cider 

internationally”, says chairman Jean-François Calandot. 

“We work with 500 local apple producers. Dry cider 

accounts for 75% of sales versus 25% for sweet cider. 

Admittedly, the market has been declining for several 

years, but rejuvenation in the restaurant industry with 

a new, young clientele, new formats and more modern 

marketing all deserve praise. Our products are natural and 

local and have all the requisite qualities to perform well. 

They have low alcohol content, a low calorie count and 

low sulphite content”. 


Michel Legallois in his cider works 

Jean-Marie Gouret tasting his ciders 

Loïck Gouret, who established 

the cider works in 1999 with his 

wife Anita, and his son Jean-Marie 

who partnered with them in 2016 

Loïck Gouret, company co-founder, 

in the schooner ‘Kerloïck’, 

its mascot 

A cider offering perfect 

food pairings 

Thierry de Ferrand of Val de Rance 

Guillaume, Matthieu and Joseph Jan, the three brothers 

at the helm of Celliers de l’Odet in their orchard 

Cidrerie de la Brique is now a company with a staff of 8 

Harvesting fruit from the orchards at Cidre Le Brun 

Laurent Guillet, Lucile Letort, head of communications, 

and right-hand man Frédéric Frery, in front of the 

Kmobile, a lorry that travels the length and breadth of 

Brittany offering tastings of Kerisac cider 

Laurent Guillet, great-grandson 

of the Guillet Frères cider works, 

creators of Kerisac cider, who is 

now at the company’s helm

CIDERS 


Pierre-Emmanuel Racine-Jourdren, co-founder 

of the Sassy brand of cider with his business partner 

Xavier d’Audiffret Pasquier 

MAISON SASSY: THE NORMANDY START-UP 

Founded by Pierre-Emmanuel Racine-Jourdren and Xavier d’Audiffret- 

Pasquier, Maison Sassy has been displaying outstanding growth in the 

cider market. Launched in November 2014, the Normandy-based 

start-up has witnessed incremental growth in revenue each year and 

now markets several million bottles, half of them exported. They can 

be found in gourmet restaurants and cocktail bars. “France and the 

UK are our two major markets”, explains Racine-Jourdren. “But we 

also ship to Australia, South Korea, Japan and Canada. We chose to 

design a modern product geared to present-day drinking habits and 

to break with conventions by creating a balanced cider that is more 

complex than a classic industrial cider”. 

CIDRE LE BRUN: FAMILY EXPERTISE 

Jean Le Brun established this cider works in 1955 near the Atlantic 

Ocean. It was taken over in 1991 by his youngest son Dominique. 

Often showered with accolades in France and abroad, the company 

has grown to become France’s leading independent cider works and 

its third by production. “Our ciders are 100% pure juice and we don’t 

use any concentrates”, explains sales manager Maxime Segard. “The 

bubbles form naturally during the fermentation process in the tank. 

Our ciders are not pasteurised so that we can better preserve aromas 


CIDERS 


Dominique Le Brun 

of the eponymous cider works 

and flavours. The specific nature of the region’s apple varieties allows 

us to use the traditional process of clarifying apple must by gelling the 

pectin”. This renowned technique maximises the aroma and flavour 

quality of the ciders, and enjoyment for consumers. 

A GREAT FIT FOR THE ZEITGEIST 

Obviously, the pandemic and closure of restaurants, a growth area 

for cider manufacturers, led them to fear the worst. Initially, volumes 

lost in the hospitality industry were not counterbalanced by super and 

hypermarkets, but they have since recovered. In fact, cider is proving 

to be extremely popular with a new category of relatively young 

(from 25 to 45 years old) urban enthusiasts and imbibers. Although 

consumers in France are still very much drawn to wine, the trend 

seems to be less entrenched abroad. “The market is faring pretty well”, 

claims one producer. “If post-pandemic consumers have a yearning 

to revert to simple, natural values, cider is the perfect fit for these 

precepts”. Cider is most often made without any added ingredients, 

just fermented apples, and has low alcohol content and calories. It is a 

great drink for sharing and also pairs extremely well with local dishes 

from Normandy or Brittany. Offering laid-back enjoyment, it also 

works with different types of cuisine from around the world. Both in 

France and internationally, these are all major plus points. 


HUNGARY 

– RENAISSANCE – 

Tokaj, at the dawn of 

a new era 

This historic wine region enjoyed its golden era from the 17 th to the 19 th century, 

before it was devastated by phylloxera, then undermined by 40 years of Soviet rule. 

Since 1990, Tokaj has recovered its prestige, not only thanks to the wines for which 

it is renowned, but also through innovative fine dry white and sparkling wines. 

By Florian Glemot - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


HUNGARY 


The desiccation process of the berries after being affected by noble rot 

In the North-East of Hungary, not far from the borders 

with Ukraine and Slovakia, lies the country’s most 

famous wine region – Tokaj. The first wine region to be 

classified with growths in 1670, it would go on to secure 

one of the first appellations in history, in 1737. At that 

time, Tokaj’s fine noble rot wines were very popular with 

Russian and European aristocrats. 

Set in the foothills of the Zemplén Mountains, the vineyards 

now cover 5,800 hectares of poor, volcanic soils facing 

South-East and South to South-West. At the foot of these 

rolling hills run two rivers, the Bodrog and the Tisza, which 

help create the mantle of morning fog that emerges in 

September and the spread of the fungus Botrytis Cinerea. 

The rot pierces the grape skins and infects the fruit before 

being obliterated by the afternoon sunshine. The grapes 

are then gradually desiccated, take on brownish hues and 

develop concentrated aromas, sugars and acids to become 

Aszú, like the eponymous, storied noble rot wine of Tokaj. 

Mirroring the trend for Sauternes, since the turn of the century 

Tokaji has borne the brunt of plummeting consumption 

of noble rot wines worldwide. So, without turning its 

back on its glorious past – and incredible showcase for the 

region across the globe – Tokaj has successfully reinvented 

itself by transitioning towards the production of dry white 


HUNGARY 


wines in barely a decade, and more recently towards 

sparkling wines. Our visit to seven estates, with the uberknowledgeable 

Tokaj ambassador Gergely Somogyi as 

our guide (see box on page 7), gave us the opportunity 

to discover the outstanding quality and variety of styles 

of wines produced across the region. 

The tasting ‘room’ with breath-taking views over the Petracs vineyard 

OREMUS, THE CUSTODIAN OF TRADITION 

Created in 1993 by the prestigious Spanish group Vega 

Sicilia, Oremus has remained focused on fine noble rot 

wines, which account for 60% of production from its 

80 hectares under vine. Located on the edge of a labyrinth 

of underground galleries used for ageing the wines, 

the estate’s winery is built on three levels. The grapes 

are brought to the upper level, then undergo stringent 

sorting depending on their final destination. They are 

then transported by gravity to the different presses 

on the middle level where they are fermented. Once 

fermentation is over, the wines are then again transported 

by gravity to the lower level with its galleries hewn out 

of the volcanic rock to be matured in one of the estate’s 

1,000 or so oak barrels. The oak comes from the Zemplén 

forests where the climate is harsh, producing very finegrain 

wood. This unique feature provides reduced microoxygenation, 

which is ideal for the lengthy maturation 

period of Aszú wines that must last for at least 18 

months. Aszú wines now come in two versions: 5 or 

6 puttonyos, depending on the level of residual sugar. 

They are produced by macerating Aszú grapes in must 

or in dry white base wine for between 12 and 60 hours, 

depending on the desired style. Consequently, Aszú wine 

boasts the freshness of dry white wine, coupled with the 

rich aromatics and sweetness of Aszú grapes. The 2013 

Aszú 5 puttonyos label is a sumptuous wine with notes 

of acacia, dried apricot, orange peel marmalade and 

pastry-like flavours of honey and gingerbread, supported 

by fat and sweetness on the palate which counterbalance 

its high acidity. The overall feeling beckons imbibers 

towards meditation. 

The endless underground network of galleries at Oremus Estate 

SAMUEL TINON, A FRENCHMAN IN TOKAJ 

Samuel moved to Tokaj over twenty years ago and is 

now one of the region’s most enthusiastic ambassadors. 


HUNGARY 


Samuel Tinon, the French craftsman, 

produces exceptionally high quality 

Szamorodnis in his humble, typical cellar 

He produces the most profound Szamorodni wines we 

tasted. Szamorodni stems from Polish and means “as 

it comes”. The wines are fermented from grape clusters 

that have partial noble rot and are then matured for at 

least six months in oak casks. There are two distinctive 

styles of Szamorodni: a noble rot style called Édes, 

generally akin to the Aszú style with fresher, less sweet 

aromatics, making it the perfect dessert wine; and a dry 

wine matured biologically in an oxidative environment 

under a veil of flor in casks that are not topped up, which 

is very similar in style to Jura’s ‘vin jaune’. Maturing the 

wine under a veil of flor lends it distinctive aromatic 

notes of curry and fresh nuts which are entwined with 

the notes of dried apricot, honey and sweet spices typical 

of botrytis. This style of Szamorodni is called ‘Száraz’ 

and, whilst traditional, is only produced by a handful 

of winegrowers in Tokaj. This is probably due to the 


HUNGARY 


Pascal Demkó, owner of Holdvölgy Estate 

fact that the wines are very challenging to produce and can 

easily fail during the maturation phase. Also, its consumer 

base is restricted to a few well-informed enthusiasts looking 

for rare gems. Vinified with no added sulphites, the 

Szamorodni Száraz produced by Samuel Tinon are matured 

for 6 years. Showing remarkable intensity and precision, 

they encapsulate all the passion and huge amount of 

patience the winegrower has put into them. 

HOLDVÖLGY, RIGOROUS PRECISION 

In the small, tranquil, picture-postcard village of Mád is 

an estate where rigour and precision are the rule. Just like 

in a high-tech laboratory, its owners – Natalia Demkó 

and her brother Pascal – ferment single batches of the 6 

permitted grape varieties from the property’s 25 blocks of 

vines in 6 growths, in a very sophisticated style. Their aim 

is to drill down and get a very precise understanding of the 

combinations of the grape varieties and vineyards they own 

in order to extract their quintessential characters. Overall 

production is therefore divided between myriad singlevineyard 

wines produced in minute amounts. One of their 

single-vineyard offerings is the Intuition n°3 range from 

the superb 2017 vintage – it is a remarkable rendition of 

the native Furmint grape variety. Numbered from 1 to 6, 


HUNGARY 


Vivien Ujvári, the talented young winemaker at Barta Pince 

each label matches one of the 6 permitted grapes in 

Tokaj. The n°3 is dedicated to Furmint, the king of the 

region’s varietal range, which accounts for about 67% of 

plantings. It is defined by its vertical acid structure which 

makes it the backbone of Tokaji fine wines and lends 

them substantial ageability. It can appear austere and 

not very aromatic when it is slightly under ripe or the 

yields are too high. But with controlled yields, the finest 

dűlős – or growths in Hungary – can produce energetic 

and extremely refined wines. The Intuition n°3 offers 

up a crystalline nose recalling green apple, pear, passion 

fruit and delicate mineral notes. On the palate, the attack 

is clean and vibrant, followed by substantial aromatic 

richness combining the freshness of the fruit with the 

smoothness of the oak in which the wine was matured 

for 5 months. The mineral finish is supported by intense 

salinity which drives the gentle sourness typical of the 

variety over many long seconds. 

BARTA PINCE, FEMININE ELEGANCE 

In the same tiny village of Mád, the manor house at 

Domaine Barta is a splendid example of architecture 

harking back to the region’s golden era. Bought by the 

family in 2003, it has been restored in the purest local 

tradition and now welcomes visitors. The vineyards cover 


HUNGARY 


Scenic vistas from the Király dűlő vineyard 

13.5 hectares in the Király and Kővágó dűlős. The Király 

dűlő, or growth of kings, is without doubt the region’s 

most iconic. The upper part has been entirely restored 

and replanted with high-density staked vines since 2003. 

On this steep slope, Furmint delivers intense expression, 

offering up generous palate weight that is rare for this 

grape variety. Vivien Ujvári, the young winemaker who 

joined the estate in 2016, has successfully established her 

style – her wines yield convincing purity and elegance. 

She uses modern technology such as pneumatic pressing 

and temperature control for the various casks and tanks. 

Mindful to allow the region to fully express its potential, 

she delivers a superb iteration of Tokaj’s second major 

grape variety, Hárslevelü, which accounts for about 

20% of plantings in the region. Highly aromatic, with 

a less radical structure than Furmint, it is traditionally 

used in blends of Aszú wines to bolster their perfume 

and floral characters. It is now frequently fermented as 

single-varietal dry white or blended with Furmint. The 

2019 Hárslevelü label by Domaine Barta offers up a very 

aromatic nose suffused with notes of white flowers, white 

peach and fresh quince. The attack is fresh and opens up 

intensively to aromas of orange blossom, lemon peel, 

yellow peach and ginger. The fruity finish is precise and 

carried over substantial length by gentle sourness. 

ERZSÉBET PINCE, FAMILY SPIRIT 

At the foot of Mount Tokaj, in the small village of Tarcal, 

the Prácser family strives to craft fine terroir-driven wines. 

Established in 1990 but with roots in the village that predate 

the collapse of the Soviet bloc, the company boasts 

one of the oldest underground galleries that dates back 

to the 1600s. At that time, it was used by the Russian 

Court to store the finest bottles of Tokaji Aszú destined 

for the Emperor. Since 2009, the estate has been assisted 

by Hajni Prácser’s husband, Ronn Wiegand MW MS*, the 

first person ever to combine these two prestigious titles. 

The wines are all gifted with substantial aromatic and 

structural freshness. 

The Prácser family owns 1 hectare of Furmint planted 

on the Király dűlő, a prime site for the grape. The 

2017 single-vineyard Király dűlő offers magnificent siteexpressiveness. 

The wine is fermented in Bordeaux oak 

Erzsébet Pince, a family affair 

*Master of Wine, Master Sommelier 


HUNGARY 


Brother and sister Miklós and Hajni Prácser work together to produce very expressive dry wines 

casks then racked and transferred to Hungarian casks to be 

matured. The nose is highly expressive and recalls fresh, precise 

fruit with lots of elegance and sophistication. The oakiness 

is now perfectly integrated, underscoring the fruit with very 

pleasant, soft vanilla-like notes. The wine boasts a lengthy 

finish and superb balance which will undoubtedly lend it long 

ageability, although it already offers huge pleasure today. 

KIKELET PINCE, 

THE REALMS OF HÁRSLEVELÜ 

Stéphanie Berecz left her native Loire region in France in the 

early 1990s to settle in Tokaj. For a decade or so, she worked 

for the famous Disznókő estate, becoming head winemaker. 

In 2002, she decided to start up her own winery, called 

Kikelet, meaning ‘spring’ in Hungarian, with her husband Zsolt. 

Stéphanie handles winemaking whilst her husband manages the 

vineyards which extend over 5 hectares of volcanic soils covered 

with varying thicknesses of loess. This very porous, mineral 


HUNGARY 


Stéphanie Berecz, the ‘Queen’ of Hárslevelű, produces renowned, 

elegant wines from the variety 

soil delivers a more subdued and charming expression 

of the Hárslevelü grape variety, boasting an elegant 

acid structure. 

In a bid to adapt to a very early harvest in 2013, then 

more systematically for the following vintages, Stéphanie 

produces a sparkling wine called Pezsgő in Hungary 

– a blend of 70% Hárslevelü and 30% Furmint made 

using the traditional method and matured on the lees 

for 2 years. This is one of the rare examples of this 

style to be entirely estate-produced, from the base wine 

through to disgorgement. Very few producers have the 

expertise to do so in the region and most sparkling wines 

undergo their secondary fermentation and are disgorged 

by major specialist co-operatives. The results are all the 

more convincing. This 2017 Pezsgő brut displays great 

aromatic balance, halfway between white flowers, pear, 

apple and secondary brioche and toasted notes. This 

harmonious and compelling wine is a great showcase for 

the potential of sparkling wine in Tokaj that has yet to be 

fully explored. 

A typical underground cellar at Kikelet Pince 

ZOLTÁN DEMETER, 

A QUEST FOR EXCELLENCE 

“The old things are around me to fill me up with the 

spirit they preserve”. This quote from Zoltán Demeter 

sums up his determination to take a long-term approach 

by painstakingly crafting his wines and perpetually 

seeking out perfection. This devotion won him the title 

of best Hungarian winegrower in 2007. Zoltán was 

born on the far eastern side of the Tokaj wine region, 

in the village of Sátoraljaújhely. He still owns a family 

vineyard that he is extremely attached to. After travelling 

to France, the USA and the UK, he began producing his 

own wines in 1996, whilst at the same time consulting 

for other wineries, then devoted himself entirely to his 

own winery in 2008. A dyed-in-the-wool visionary, he 

pioneered production of sparkling wine in Tokaj starting 

in 2009. He makes regular trips to Champagne to 

learn the correct protocol and now produces extremely 

complex wines grown on clay and tuff soils over the 

volcanic bedrock. The 2015 Pezsgő is matured for 58 

months on the lees. Its characteristics are akin to those of 

a top vintage Champagne with distinctive notes of lemon, 


HUNGARY 


Zoltán Demeter who has pioneered the sparkling wine revolution 

in Tokaj since 2009 

grapefruit, green apple and pear entwined with a chalky feel 

and gorgeous pastry notes. The attack is full of energy and 

the bubbles are creamy. Fruit-driven length lingers on and 

on suffused with more mineral notes on the finish. This 

gratifying, vinous, concentrated and elegant wine also paves 

the way for the advent of fine sparkling wines from Tokaj. 

Drawing on 4 centuries of producing top noble rot wines, 

Tokaj is on the cusp of a new era focusing on fine dry 

whites and sparkling wines. With climate change afoot, 

Tokaj has many assets for securing a prime place in the 

world of fine wines. Hungary is home to a raft of microclimates. 

Mirroring its top quality whites, it also excels 

in producing fine red wines, like those by the Jammertal 

estate in the Villány region, in the southern part of the 

country. Jointly run by winemaker Zsófia Kövesdi and 

viticulturist Zsolt Nagy, the estate has risen right to the 

top with its superlative quality wines, primarily the Koh- 

I-Noor range. Produced from international grape varieties, 

they were awarded first-rate scores in the Gilbert & Gaillard 

International Challenge which you can find at the end of 

this issue. 


An aerial view of Alta Alella with the city of Barcelona in the background 

SPAIN 

– DESIGNATION – 

Will changes to D.O. Cava 

help improve quality 

and sales? 

Cava has become a household name across the globe in recent years, providing 

consumers with an affordable sparkling wine that can be enjoyed on numerous 

occasions. But faced with increased competition, the appellation’s authorities 

have been prompted to make some major changes to regulations, 

aimed at enhancing quality and provenance. 

We ask a range of Cava producers what the changes imply for them. 

By Santiago Jimenez - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


SPAIN 


Clusters of grapes used to make some of the sparkling wines at Costers del Sió 

Most people situate Cava vineyards in Catalonia, 

specifically in the Penedés region, with Sant 

Sadurní d’Anoia at its epicentre. And indeed 

around 90% of total production is focused 

on Catalonia. Despite this, some wineries 

outside the region have been making Cava – a name that can 

only be used for Spanish sparkling wine – since the beginning 

of the appellation. One such example is Rioja-based Bodegas 

Bilbaínas, which was bought by the Raventós Codorníu 

group, one of the leading names in Cava production. 

In 2020, a series of changes were made to Cava D.O. 

regulations, including a new classification that includes zones 

(Comtats de Barcelona, Valle del Ebro, Zona de Levante and 

Viñedos del Almendralejo) and sub-zones, as well as a new 

category (Cava de Guarda and Cava de Guarda Superior). All 

these modifications will be gradually introduced in the near 

future. Cava is not only produced in Catalonia, there are 

also Cava wineries in Aragón, Castilla y León, Extremadura, 

Navarra, the Basque Country, the Valencia region and Rioja. 

We have selected a raft of sparkling wine producers to find 

out how the appellation changes will affect them and what 

impact they will have. 


SPAIN 


An aerial view of the Paraje Calificado of Vallcirera 

ALTA ALELLA – A GAME-CHANGER 

This winery, located to the North of the city of Barcelona, 

is distinctive in that it lies next to the Mediterranean. It is 

a personal project of the Pujol-Busquets Guillén family, 

which began with Josep Maria and Cristina and continues 

with their daughters Mireia and Georgina, who have been 

intensely involved in growing wine and Cava since they 

were children. For some 30 years now they have been 

farming organically, and the results are very satisfactory. 

They are quite rightly proud of their products, especially 

two of them, both of which come from a designated 

vineyard site (Paraje Calificado), Vallcirera: Alta Alella 

10, a new release, whose first vintage was launched in 

2021. This Cava is matured for 10 years and is elegant 

with great ageing capacity. The other is Mirgin Opus: a 

limited edition Cava that, like the previous example, also 

has a long ageing period, in this case 36 months, before 

being released for sale. Both are the winery’s superpremium 

Cavas. 

Regarding the changes to appellation rules, Mireia claims 

that “these changes were absolutely necessary. We have 

been talking about zoning for some time now, and 

we needed an identity that was more specific to each 

zone. Our Cavas already have their own identity, but 

the consumer will receive more information with these 

changes and it will allow us to safeguard our product 

better”. The winery supports the idea that in order to 

sell your products, you have to be able to tell a story, 

something that the changes will not alter. What it does 

feel, though, is that they “provide us with new tools, so 

we will be able to talk more specifically about our origins. 

Defending our terroir in a more concrete way makes us 

more unique”. 

The new winery at Clos Montblanc 

CLOS MONTBLANC – THE CU4TRO PROJECT 

Clos Montblanc is a winery located in Barberá de la 

Conca, in Tarragona. At domestic level, its still wines and 

Cavas are very well known, but it also nurtures a project 

designed for exports: Cu4tro Project. The project, which 

has been ongoing for some years now, has been very 

well received outside Spain, with Japan and South Korea, 

together with the United States, being the main export 

markets. Brazil, however, stands out above the rest, along 


SPAIN 


Josep Maria Busquets 

with his daughter Mireia 

in the cellar of Alta Alella 


SPAIN 


An aerial view of the farmland surrounding Clos Montblanc 

with other markets such as China, Taiwan and, of course, 

the European market, where Germany, Belgium and 

Holland are prime destinations. 

As with Alta Alella, it is important to differentiate 

between different zones. “For us it is very important to 

highlight the origin. Cava was born specifically in this 

area, where the main varieties we use in our blends are 

perfectly adapted to the soil and weather patterns, which 

bring out the qualities we seek”. When it comes to selling 

their products beyond Spanish borders, being able to 

specify exactly where their Cavas are produced “allows 

us to supply the most genuine Cava. Apart from quality, 

which in our view is the basic premise, we can ramp up 

arguments like genuine origin and tradition”. 

In terms of winemaking procedures, Clos Montblanc 

clarifies that “this does not involve any changes since for 

Cavas in this profile (Guarda Superior) we already select 

the oldest vineyards, always older than 10 years, with 

maturation exceeding the minimum required. All the 

vineyards used to produce our Guarda Superior Cavas 

come from organically certified vineyards”. 

Old vines used to produce Cavas at Bodegas Valdeorite 

BODEGAS VALDEORITE - 

ONGOING ADAPTATION 

Who would have thought years ago that one day Cavas 

would be grown outside of Catalonia? This project, 

in the province of Badajoz, in Extremadura, just a few 

kilometres from the city of Badajoz, is a good example 

of the fact that Cavas can be made outside their original 

home region. This winery has garnered acclaim both 

domestically – winning the Gran Espiga de Oro award for 

the best cava in Extremadura for three consecutive years 

– and internationally, which has put it in a privileged 

position when exporting its Cavas. 

Here, the newly-minted Cava D.O. regulations have not 

implied any changes for the moment, aside from one 

major adaptation: “Since the new regulations, we have 

been adapting to the main change which is making 

organic wines, and trying to ensure these wines are ready 

by the time the regulatory period of adaptation expires”. 

This is going to require efforts on the part of the winery, 

but there is a strong chance they will come to a successful 

conclusion. The winery also believes that the changes 


SPAIN 


in terms of classification, with zones and sub-zones, 

are interesting: “Any personalisation is worthwhile, 

especially for Premium Cavas, where we will be able 

to make highly expressive Cavas”. In turn, the winery 

believes this will facilitate sales. 

CASTELL SANT ANTONI - AWAITING CHANGE 

This winery, which is approaching the 60th anniversary 

of its official opening (1963), is a family project that 

began when Ramón Canals Ridorsa decided to build a 

small wine cellar at the back of the family home in Sant 

Sadurní d’Anoia. Subsequently, as sales experienced 

incremental growth, the space became too small and 

they had to “emigrate” to the outskirts of the town to 

accommodate the now larger production volumes. 

The new brand was born on the eve of the 21st century, 

in 1999, and led to the current name of the winery: 

‘Castell Sant Antoni’. Pere Canals’ project became a 

reality with the emergence of a new winery dedicated to 

producing highly expressive Cavas. 

Since then, drawing on their dedication and patience, they 

have been producing high quality Cavas some 40 km from 

Barcelona, in the birthplace of Cava. The belief here is 

that “the new regulations are a step in the right direction. 

Consumers are becoming more and more demanding 

and providing extra information about the origin of the 

wines they drink is, without a doubt, an initiative that is 

not only good but also necessary at the present time. It is 

important to point out that this is a very substantial and 

complex change, which we are still studying in depth. We 

are waiting to see how it will be applied in the medium 

term throughout the entire appellation”. 

Any additional information they can provide in the 

future, due to changes in the regulations “is also an 

opportunity on a commercial level and good news, but to 

a large extent, whether or not it will ultimately facilitate 

marketing will depend on how the new regulations are 

applied and developed”. 

Sergi Canals, on the right, is the winemaker at Castell Sant Antoni 

COSTERS DEL SIO - 

PROUD OF ITS SPARKLING WINES 

Halfway between the towns of Balaguer and Agramunt, 

in Lleida, is this project which began to take shape in the 

Juan and José are the owners of Costers del Sió 


SPAIN 


Members of the Porcioles-Buixó family 

same year that the Olympic Games were held for the first 

time in Spain (Barcelona, 1992). The Porcioles-Buixó 

family acquired the property that is home to the winery 

in that same year. After 6 years, the first vineyards were 

planted and in 2005 the first grapes were harvested and 

the first wines were produced: Alto Siós, Viña Siós red 

and rosé. In 2014, 22 years after starting the project, the 

sparkling wines Siós Brut Blanc de Noirs and Siós Brut 

Rosé were produced. 

Out of choice, these wines do not come under the Cava 

D.O. so obviously none of the changes introduced 

last year to the appellation have implied any direct 

changes for them. At Costers del Sió, as winemaker 

María Mendoza said, “we are proud to make quality 

sparkling wine under the Costers del Segre appellation”. 

As she said, the new regulations “are not relevant for our 

products”. In fact, here, the belief is that they will make 

marketing more difficult. 


SPAIN 


RAMON CANALS – ORIGIN IS ESSENTIAL 

Located some 30 kilometres from Barcelona, in the 

town of Castellví de Rosanes, this winery was founded 

in 1903. Three generations have injected life into the 

winery, which produces still wines in D.O. Penedés and 

Cavas under D.O. Cava. It is a family business that has 

evolved over the generations but has remained steadfast 

in its principles: the quality of its products and a strong 

commitment to disseminating and promoting the 

culture of wine. 

Mother and father Maria Angels Canals Duran and 

Ramón Canals Llaverol and their children Ramón 

Canals and Marta Canals are the winery’s owners 

and managers. Ramón Canals (son) is in charge of 

winemaking and sales. Daughter Marta is tasked with 

management, administration and quality control of the 

shipments. The changes in D.O. Cava classifications 

have not affected them much. They feel that “the 

stricter the regulations the better. We already make all 

our Reservas with more than 18 months’ maturation 

and soon almost all our Cavas will be organic. But for 

ordinary consumers, not experts, we would have to ask 

whether they have a full understanding of so many 

names, appellations and ways we have of categorising 

sparkling wines nowadays. At marketing level, it is 

also a well-known fact that complicated names are 

difficult for the public to remember. It’s all very well for 

professionals, but for the vast majority, those who buy 

millions of bottles of Cava every year, will it be clear 

or not?” 

Son Ramón Canals explains that “highlighting 

provenance is essential, as this is the basic tenet of 

any D.O. This is fundamental and one of the reasons 

why some producers have left the D.O., especially for 

exports. It is a good step forward. But from my point of 

view the names are complicated and difficult for nonexpert 

consumers”. 

Inside the Ramón Canals winery 

RAVENTOS CODORNÍU - 

BENEFICIAL CHANGES 

Internationally renowned Raventós Codorníu 

encapsulates the history of Cava. As Codorníu’s 

winemaker, Bruno Colomer, told us, “it is a pleasure 

A beautiful sunset over the vineyards of Ramón Canals 


SPAIN 


Bruno Colomer is the winemaker at Raventós Codorníu 

to travel around the world with a Codorníu business 

card, as it opens many doors. In most countries around 

the world we are known for our Cavas”. What can be 

said about the company that is not already known? At 

Raventós Codorníu, the opinion is that all the regulatory 

changes “do not imply a different way of working, since 

all the principles that are defined were already being 

applied: the origin of the vineyard, choice of vineyards 

for lengthy ageing... but it is true that with the new 

regulations we are permitted to mention the origin of 

the grapes on the labels. Some administrative aspects 

have changed, such as the certification of vineyards for 

Guarda or Guarda Superior; reporting the Kg/Ha to the 

administration, and differentiating it from the rest of 

the vineyard, for example: but the work and internal 

winery procedures are 100% compatible with the new 

regulations”. Raventós Codorníu is already known in 


SPAIN 


One of the inside rooms at the Raventós Codorníu winery 

almost every corner of the planet, but it believes that 

the changes to the regulations “will indeed facilitate 

marketing. Any aspect that increases the quality of the 

product will help the customer take it into account 

when they make a decision to purchase”. 

There is one remaining question – what will happen 

to the wineries that make sparkling wines and are not 

under the umbrella of D.O. Cava? Will the changes 

prompt them to take on the challenge of altering 

some of their procedures so that they comply with the 

new regulations? Or, on the other hand, will there be 

wineries that are currently marketed under D.O. Cava 

which, due to the new requirements, will want to leave 

the appellation? Only time will tell and reveal how the 

situation evolves. Each winery is different and not all 

wineries have the same ethos. The future will provide 

the answer. 


PORTUGAL 

– MARKETS – 

A beautiful view of the Stone Garden at Quinta Boavista 

Casa Santos Lima: 

Portugal’s standard-bearer abroad 

Founded in the late 19 th century, Casa Santos Lima is a winery that predominantly 

exports Portuguese wines. So much so that it is one of Portugal’s largest exporters. 

After being passed down through five generations, it is now in the capable hands of 

José Luis Oliveira da Silva, the current CEO, a man who puts 

his heart and soul into advancing this family-run project. 

By Santiago Jimenez - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


PORTUGAL 


José Luis Oliveira da Silva, CEO 

Casa Santos Lima was founded by Joaquim 

Santos Lima in the late 19 th century, and 

for many years it exported barrels of wine 

produced at Quinta da Boavista to countries 

like Brazil and the United Kingdom. 

Since then, five different generations have managed 

the family business. In the 1990s, the task fell to José 

Luis Oliveira da Silva, who left his career in finance to 

fully focus on his family’s business. After taking over 

the company, he launched himself into restructuring 

the old winery, modernising the equipment, and 

building new infrastructures and wine cellars. 

The same decade also saw several milestones in 

the company’s development. For example, the 

most prestigious Portuguese varieties, as well as 

international varieties (1990-1995) were introduced; 

the first vintages under the Quinta da Espiga, Quinta 

das Setencostas and Palha-Canas brands (1996) were 

bottled and the first 86,000 bottles were shipped to the 

United Kingdom. 


PORTUGAL 


An aerial view of Casa Vila Verde 

Even now, in the current decade, remarkable progress 

is still helping the winery maintain its position as one 

of the most prominent wine exporters. In fact, around 

90% of its production is exported, and the wines can be 

found in over 50 countries across five continents. The 

United States, Canada and the Scandinavian countries 

are key markets, though Casa Santos Lima has also been 

bold enough to introduce its wine to more challenging 

markets, such as India, Indonesia, Ukraine, and Belarus, 

where the population does not tend to drink as much 

wine. 

Several new investments have been made, notably 

Quinta de Porrais in the Douro region in 2011 (one of 

the vineyards owned by the legendary Dona Antónia 

Ferreira); a new winery was created in Quinta da 

Boavista in the Alenquer region in 2014, followed by 

another one on the Algarve in 2015. This has been 

concurrent with further investments into various aspects 

of the company, all of which have led this group of 

wineries – centrally managed by José Luis Oliveira da 

Silva – to become one of the biggest wine exporters in 

Portugal. 


Casa Santos Lima’s vineyards with the new winery in the backdrop 

Although the buildings at Casa Santos Lima are cutting-edge, they also fit into the landscape 

A spectacular panoramic view of the Quinta do Conde winery

PORTUGAL 


The vineyards at Quinta de Porrais climb steep hillsides 

The Quinta do Conde winery ensconced amidst vineyards 

The main winemaking facilities are in the Alenquer 

region, at Quinta da Boavista, situated about 45 minutes 

from the Portuguese capital of Lisbon. This location 

boasts over 500 hectares which are planted with various 

varieties of grape, both native and international. In fact, 

there are over 50 different varieties, a feature which is 

almost exclusive to Casa Santos Lima. In terms of red 

wine varieties, the company works with Alfrocheiro, 

Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Camarate, 

Castelão, Malbec, Merlot, Negra Mole, Petite Sirah, 

Petit Verdot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Preto Martinho, 

Sousao, Syrah, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Lisboa, Tinta Roriz, 

Tinto Cao, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. It also 

works with a fair number of white varieties: Alvarinho, 

Antao Vaz, Arinto, Avesso, Chardonnay, Códega do 

Larinho, Encruzado, Fernao Pires, Gewürztraminer, 

Loureiro, Malvasia Fina, Moscatel, Rabigato, Roupeiro, 

Sauvignon Blanc, Seara Nova, Trajadura, Verdelho, 

Viognier, Viosinho and Vital. 

These varieties are grown across 5 different regions, each 

one with its own soil and climate patterns. Briefly, these 

regions can be defined as below. 

LISBON – ALENQUER: Here, vineyards are planted 

on rolling hills. The soil is predominantly comprised 

of clay and limestone and is gently influenced by the 

Atlantic Ocean. 

ALGARVE – TAVIRA: Influenced by the Mediterranean 

climate, vineyards here grow on clay, limestone and 

slate soils and enjoy a substantial amount of sunshine 

(more than 3,000 hours a year). 

ALENTEJO – BEJA: In this area, you will find the 

perfect conditions for growing top-quality grapes. Clay 

and limestone soils and a continental climate with a 

Mediterranean influence are a match made in heaven 

when it comes to producing the very best wines. 

DOURO – MURÇA: Vineyards are planted around 600 

metres above sea level in this region. These vineyards 

previously belonged to Dona Antónia Ferreira… This 

alone should tell you everything you need to know 

about the quality of the wines produced here. 

VINHOS VERDES – LOUSADA AND PONTE DE LIMA: 

The wines that come from this region are crisp with 


PORTUGAL 


Hillside vineyard plantings at Quinta de Porrais 

great minerality and are intensely aromatic. The 

climate is cool and humid due to the influence of the 

Atlantic Ocean. 

The medley of regions, climates and varieties means 

that this family-run company can produce all types 

of wines, from white, red, rosé and sparkling to semisparkling 

and late harvest, in both bottled and boxed 

wine formats — and all at great value for money. The 

wines are often considered “best buys” and frequently 

win awards in various international wine competitions. 

In 2017, the company began to develop a programme 

of wine tourism activities at Quinta da Boavista, that 

allows visitors to indulge in an unforgettable experience. 

As part of this, they get to know the wines produced 

by Casa Santos Lima first-hand and, in this way, the 

wines become a part of their lives to a certain extent. 

As CEO José Luis Oliveira da Silva once said: “we 

want to produce wines that are part of our customers’ 

daily lives”. 


ITALY 


Puglia 

and its wine revolution 

Puglia is one of the regions in southern Italy which has carved out a reputation 

for itself in recent years for both its quality and its identity, drawing on a winning 

combination of both native and international grape varieties. 

By Francesco Saverio Russo - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


ITALY 


Although Primitivo (Zinfandel), Negroamaro 

and Nero di Troia are the varieties which 

most frequently represent the region in the 

domestic and international markets, the range 

of Puglian grapes is in fact much broader and 

includes native grape varieties such as the lesser known 

Bombino Nero, Malvasia Nera, Aleatico, Sussumaniello 

and Ottavianello (Cinsaut), as well as Montepulciano, 

Sangiovese and Aglianico and international cultivars 

Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon. White grapes from 

the region include Bombino Bianco, Malvasia Bianca, 

Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano and Pampanuto, as well as 

Fiano, Moscato Bianco and Chardonnay. 

The Puglia wine region is divided between hills and plains. 

Starting in the north, the Gargano area is a promontory 

of limestone and eruptive rocks, with slopes clad in 

Mediterranean scrub. Heading south you encounter 

the Tavoliere area, in the province of Foggia, with its 

sandy-clay alluvial soils. This is followed by Murgia, a 

very extensive area with soils of limestone agglomerates, 

which extends across the provinces of Barletta-Andria- 

Trani, Bari and Brindisi. Lastly is Salento, a very fertile, 

cool zone with limestone soils, located in the province of 

Lecce and partly extending into Brindisi and Taranto. The 

total area under vine is approximately 85,000 hectares, 

some 75% planted to red grape varieties. 

Amastuola’s vineyards are located in Valle d’Itria heading towards the sea, 

around the Arco Ionico area 

FROM BLENDING WINES TO QUALITY 

BOTTLINGS 

The real revolution in Puglian wine, however, cannot be 

expressed in numbers, but in the work of forward-thinking 

producers who have moved beyond the principles of 

quantity and deeply-coloured, structured wines (a legacy 

of the era when Puglian wines were considered to be 

blending wines) to embrace a more sensitive approach 

to the region through the use of typical vines and longstanding 

training systems. This includes the use of the 

‘Alberello’ system, which has been used for thousands 

of years and features in the writings of the Roman 

authors Pliny the Elder, Horace and Tibullus. Puglia has 

always been a very important supplier of wine and oil, 

producing products strongly linked to its tradition and 

culture which, today, are finally getting the recognition 

they deserve. 

The wine cellar at Conti Zecca, located in Leverano. Founded in the 1930s, 

Conti Zecca is one of Puglia’s longstanding wine producers 


ITALY 


Podere Don Cataldo is the estate after which the Puglian company run by 

Ernesto Rocca and his family is named. It follows the same quality 

standards as all Rocca family wineries 

The Puglian designations are: Primitivo di Manduria 

dolce natural Docg, Castel del Monte Bombinonero 

Docg, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia and Castel del 

Monte Rosso Riserva Docg; Aleatico di Puglia Doc, 

Alezio, Barletta, Brindisi, Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera, Castel 

del Monte, Copertino, Galatina, Gioia del Colle, Gravina, 

Leverano, Lizzano, Locorotondo, Martina or Martina 

Franca, Matino, Moscato di Trani, Nardò, Negro Amaro 

di Terra d’Otranto, Orta Nova, Ostuni, Primitivo di 

Manduria, Rosso Barletta, Rosso di Canosa, Rosso di 

Cerignola, Salice Salentino, San Severo and Squinzano, 

Tavoliere delle Puglie and Terre d’Otranto. These are 

complemented by the IGTs Puglia, Daunia, Murgia, 

Puglia, Brindisi, Salento, Tarantino and Valle d’Itria. 

Puglia boasts very varied soil types with an extensive 

footprint which is perfect for wine growing. The defining 

factor is the climate – this region is one of the sunniest 

in Italy and Europe. The sea also plays a fundamental 

role since Puglia is surrounded by over 800 kilometres of 

coastline. These factors can be combined with altitude, 

which can reach over 400 metres above sea level. 

From a winemaking perspective, the wines range from the 

traditional method to passiti (dessert wines made from 

partially dried grapes) and natural sweet wines to fullbodied, 

elegant reds and fresh, fragrant whites. Puglia is 

also the cradle of Italian rosé wines, and produced Italy’s 

first rosé in 1943. 

Boasting a wide variety of soil types, vine varieties, local 

knowledge and ancient traditions, Puglia is one of the 

most interesting regions on the Italian wine scene. The 

following are some excellent examples of what the region 

has to offer. 

Puglia is not only famous for growing vines but also olive trees, viewed as 

authentic natural monuments. Amastuola has thus preserved its ancient olive trees 

AMASTUOLA 

The Amastuola winery is one branch of the Kikau group, a 

company founded in 1984 by Giuseppe Montanaro, who 

runs it with his wife Rosaria and children Ilaria, Donato 

and Filippo with their respective spouses Giuseppe, Anna 

and Raffaella. They are united by their ability to innovate 

while respecting history and tradition. 

Known for its vineyards grown in «wave» formations 

which have been the subject of international studies 

and awards, the winery combines production, aesthetics 

and tradition. 


ITALY 


The Montanaro family runs the Amastuola winery, part 

of the Kikau group, and honours both history and tradition 

It is located behind the Valle d’Itria heading towards 

the sea, around the Arco Ionico area. The climate 

is Mediterranean, with temperatures mitigated by the 

proximity of the sea and frequent sea breezes which 

promote healthy vines. The area tends to be flat, with 

low-lying hills inland, where the soils (‘red earth’) are 

mainly limestone-clay. This is prime Primitivo land. The 

vines, which are mostly bush-trained, grow vigorously, 

ripen early and the fruit tends to develop high alcohol 

content. Negroamaro is also significant and suited to the 

local climate and soils, as is Aglianico and some white 

varieties including Fiano di Puglia and Malvasia. 

At Amastuola, the feeling is that the perception of 

Puglian wine has improved considerably over the last 

twenty years, as more and more wineries have focused 

their efforts on producing quality wines. Demand for the 

region’s wines, especially for Primitivo, has grown, so 

much so that Primitivo is now one of the most popular 

wines in the world. Amastuola produces about 200,000 

bottles for its main markets that are the EU, Canada, 

USA, China and Japan. 


ITALY 


Clemente Zecca, who studied marketing in the USA and graduated with an MA in wine culture, is contributing 

to sustainable innovation in the family business 

CONTI ZECCA 

Conti Zecca, located in Leverano, is one of Puglia’s longstanding 

wine producers – it was founded in the 1930s. 

Today, the company is run by the four Zecca brothers 

Alcibiade, Francesco, Luciano and Mario with his son 

Clemente. Their mission is to preserve tradition and their 

strong identity while also innovating, drawing on their 

strength of character and vision. 

Conti Zecca is an independent winery only making wine 

from its own grapes and overseeing the entire production 

chain first-hand. Sustainability is fundamental and its pest 

management protocols are certified SQNPI. 

The vineyards owned by the family extend over 320 hectares 

in the province of Lecce, mainly in Leverano and Salice 

Salentino. Zoning has identified the best plots – totalling 

around 40 hectares – for premium wines. 

In Leverano, the soils are shallower, more calcareous and 

suitable for white varieties. In places, however, there are 

dips where clay has accumulated due to alluvial activity 

making them ideal for growing red grapes. The micro- 


ITALY 


climate is characterised by the gentle influence of the 

sea breeze, which regulates temperatures, encouraging 

regular ripening. 

In Salice Salentino, the soil is deeper and more clayey, 

with medium texture – it is richer in organic substance. 

This is the isthmus of land where the distance from the 

two seas, the Ionian and the Adriatic, is the shortest, 

and is therefore optimally influenced by the sea. Here, 

mainly black grapes are grown for full-bodied wines. 

Salento is mainly home to Negroamaro and Primitivo, 

the grape varieties that probably spearheaded the 

rebirth of Puglian viticulture, but Conti Zecca also 

believes in white Malvasia and Moscato. Conti Zecca’s 

primary grape though is Negroamaro, which forms the 

backbone of several wines. The belief here is that the 

Puglia ‘brand name’ has gained a lot of traction in recent 

years thanks predominantly to tourism, which has put 

Puglia on the map as a top gourmet food destination. 

Tourists in particular have helped Puglian wine make 

its mark, enhancing it as a national and international 

brand through its strong regional ties. 

The company produces approximately 2,800,000 bottles 

of wine, but its Conti Zecca 1580 – earmarked for top 

restaurants and wine shops – is released on a smaller 

scale of 200,000 bottles. 30% of production is shipped 

abroad, mainly to Germany and the English-speaking 

world, as well as Japan, China and Thailand. 70% of the 

wines though are sold in Italy, mainly in Puglia. 

The vineyards owned by the Conti Zecca family cover 320 hectares in the 

province of Lecce, mainly in Leverano and Salice Salentino 

CANTINA DUE PALME 

Cantine due Palme is an agricultural co-operative founded 

in 1989 by 10 members, rising to a current 1,000 or so 

members and over 2,500 hectares of vineyards in the 

provinces of Brindisi, Lecce and Taranto. Production 

is centred on Negroamaro, the flagship vine variety of 

Salento, which is used to make D.O.P. Salice Salentino, 

Brindisi and Squinzano. Production of D.O.P. Primitivo 

di Manduria is handled by the Cantina San Gaetano, in 

Lizzano, acquired in 2012 with the aim of being part of 

the D.O.P. 

The Due Palme group also owns the Angelini winery in 

San Pietro Vernotico, Riforma Fondiaria and Produttori 

Agricoli in Cellino San Marco – where the grapes are 

raisined to produce passito – and lastly Cantina Arnesano. 

The hub of Cantine Due Palme, in Cellino San Marco, an example of high-tech 

winemaking 


ITALY 


Cantina Due Palme is the culmination of Angelo Maci’s dream. Along with 

his family, he runs the business with great foresight 

The growers own land located in very different areas in 

the three provinces of Salento, with equally different 

characteristics. This not only promotes greater variety of 

expression but also minimises risks in the event of adverse 

weather such as hailstorms, torrential rain and frosts. Among 

its indigenous grape varieties, one in particular is currently 

highly successful – Susumaniello. The variety, which almost 

disappeared entirely, has been recovered by Due Palme 

and other companies that believed in the cultivar’s longstanding 

tradition. Issues with ripening and the demanding 

vineyard management techniques required had previously 

discouraged producers from growing it. But more modern 

techniques have resulted in wines that are rounded, ripe and 

distinctive. There are also some interesting experiments with 

local blends such as Primitivo and Aglianico or Vermentino 

with Malvasia Bianca, and international blends such as 

Primitivo and Cabernet-Sauvignon. 

Due Palme is also the driving force behind one of the first 

Traditional Method sparkling wines in Puglia, a Negroamaro 

Blanc de Noir. Rosé is also a mainstay – its producers aim 


ITALY 


Podere Don Cataldo’s history is inextricably linked with that of the Rocca family. Its vines sink deep roots in Puglia, 

in the heart of Salento, just a few kilometres from the Ionian coast 

for lighter coloured wines that are more delicate and more 

dynamic to drink. 

The winery’s production totals some 20,000,000 bottles 

distributed to over 40 countries in the off-trade and on-trade 

but since Covid-19, e-commerce has also been growing. 

PODERE DON CATALDO - 

ANGELO ROCCA & SONS 

In 1998, Ernesto Rocca, the third generation of the family, 

bought a farm in Leverano, in the province of Lecce, spurred 

on by his love of Salento and winegrowing. This swathe of 

over 100 hectares is home to two twin farms: Vignali Grandi 

and Podere Don Cataldo. The business is named after the 

second of the two. The passion for the art of wine has now 

been passed down to the fifth generation. 

The vineyards are located just a few kilometres from the 

Ionian coast and enjoy a Mediterranean climate which, 

combined with the very fertile soils, create a felicitous site for 

growing vines. The varietal range embraces native varieties 

Negroamaro, Primitivo, Nero Di Troia and Susumaniello; 


ITALY 


Podere Don Cataldo is the estate after which the Puglian company run 

by Ernesto Rocca and his family is named. It follows the same quality 

standards as all Rocca family wineries 

Puglia is also the home of Italian rosé wines and Podere 

Cataldo honours that tradition 

nationally-grown cultivar Vermentino (introduced in 

place of Chardonnay), and international varieties Syrah, 

Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon. 

Obviously, the region’s identity is best expressed through 

its typical grape varieties. 

Primitivo: ‘authentic and seductive’. A challenging grape 

variety from an agricultural point of view, it is invariably 

a real palate-pleaser. Despite the fact that it is the earliestripening 

native Puglian red grape variety, its sugar levels 

are always highly concentrated. The challenge is to 

achieve a balance between alcohol and acidity. This 

is made possible by early harvesting, generating fullbodied 

wines with great aromatic concentration and 

typical sweet notes. 

Negroamaro: ‘elegant and velvety’. A generous vine 

variety, it is the symbol of the Salento area and offers 

velvety tannins, a full, rounded flavour and a surprising 

aftertaste of Mediterranean herbs. 

Nero di Troia: ‘intriguing and vigorous’. A historic vine 

variety which is experiencing renewed purity. Austere 

and imposing, it combines a typical explosion of red 

and black fruit with notes of leather and undergrowth. 

The grape lends itself to maturing in wood, displays 

excellent acidity and therefore has a propensity to age. 

Susumaniello: ‘rich and intense’. This is a recently 

rediscovered native grape. Although in the past it was 

known for its high productivity, when controlled, the 

variety has the ability to produce extraordinary aromatic 

concentration and epitomise the sunny Salento region. 

Maximum concentration and high alcohol content 

supported by excellent body make it one of the most 

interesting Italian native grape varieties. 

The Rocca family mature almost all their red wines in 

large Slavonian oak casks for about 8 months, in a bid 

to enhance the unique characters of each native grape 

including their distinctive ripe fruit notes. 

Oak barrels were selected for the Susumaniello grape, 

however, due to the bolder structure of the wine and 

they produced excellent results. 

The Rocca family believes the perception of Puglian 

wine has changed a great deal in recent years, due to 

improved quality coinciding with greater interest in 

native grapes, especially in foreign markets. The charm 

of the native grapes has struck a chord with experts and 


ITALY 


non-experts alike in their search for something different 

and authentic. Wine tourism has acted as a catalyst for 

change, creating a strong connection between food and 

wine, combined with the experience of taking in vistas 

of clear water, vines and centuries-old olive trees. 

Podere Don Cataldo produces some 160,000 bottles of 

wine exported to more than 40 destinations around the 

world such as Northern Europe, Benelux, Russia and 

Vietnam in addition to Italy. All of them are sold in the 

on-trade. 

TENUTE AL BANO CARRISI 

This estate lies in the heart of Puglia, in Cellino San Marco, 

a town in the hinterland of the province of Brindisi at the 

gateway to Salento. Here, Al Bano, the world-famous 

Italian singer, has created a small traditional village 

surrounded by woods, vineyards and olive groves, just 

20 km from the city of Lecce and a few kilometres as the 

crow flies from both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. 

Love and respect for the land is a principle that Al Bano 

learned from birth. Born into a family of farmers, the 

singer has never lost those values, which are his main 

inspiration for producing his wines. 

Winegrowing is a family affair and knowledge and 

vines have been handed down for generations. In 

fact, Al Bano Carrisi created his winery because of 

a promise he made to his father Don Carmelo. The 

wines produced are based on some of the most typical 

varietals in Puglia, such as Primitivo, Negroamaro and 

Salice Salentino along with Chardonnay and Aleatico. 

Tenute Al Bano does not just produce around 

1,500,000 bottles of wine, it is also a wine tourism 

oasis comprising the Hotel Felicità, the Don Carmelo 

Restaurant and the Tenuta Carrisi Spa. The winery, 

which forms the village’s hub, can be visited on one of 

a number of tasting tours through the oak barrels and 

bottles of wines laid down to mature. Al Bano is not a 

classic VIP vineyard investor because he actually grew 

up here, surrounded by vineyards and winemaking. 

In addition, he has consistently shown a sincere and 

strong dedication to producing wines which reflect 

the identity of Puglia and has focused on enhancing 

knowledge and awareness of the region’s wine both in 

Italy and abroad. 

The Vinicola Al Bano Carrisi is a unique wine destination, where 

the famous Italian singer produces wines with a strong regional 

identity, in keeping with his family’s tradition 

Tenute Al Bano Carrisi is located in the heart of Puglia, in Cellino 

San Marco. Here the famous Italian singer has created a small 

traditional village surrounded by woods, vineyards and olive trees 


The Prosecco Hills are enhanced and preserved by wineries such as Cantine Riondo 

ITALY 

– NEW APPELLATION – 

Prosecco 

in the pink of health 

A combination of confidence and reticence, foresight and respect for tradition, 

Prosecco Rosé was born in 2020. The pink version of Prosecco, with its own 

regulations, joins existing white versions of DOC Prosecco produced since 2009, 

namely Prosecco Frizzante, Spumante and Tranquillo. 

By Francesco Saverio Russo - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


ITALY 


In actual fact, many Prosecco companies were already 

producing the pink version with considerable success, 

even without stating the name ‘Prosecco’ on the 

label. For this very reason, the Consortium decided to 

regulate the production of rosé, thereby enhancing its 

quality and recognisability, with positive effects on the 

perception of the region and the other types of Prosecco. 

Rosé production conditions require that only Glera (85 - 

90%) and Pinot noir (10 - 15%) grapes be used, fermented 

as red wine. Also, on the label the term ‘Millesimato’ is 

mandatory, followed by the reference vintage of at least 

85% of the grapes. Initially, the indigenous Raboso grape 

(in Veneto) and Refosco (in Friuli) were considered for 

the blend. 

The production area matches that for DOC Prosecco, 

which is located in north-eastern Italy and more 

specifically in 5 provinces in Veneto (Treviso, Venice, 

Vicenza, Padua, Belluno) and 4 in Friuli Venezia Giulia 

(Gorizia, Pordenone, Trieste and Udine). When the grape 

harvest, winemaking process and bottling take place 

entirely in the provinces of Treviso and Trieste, the special 

statement of Treviso or Trieste may be used to emphasise 

the historical value of the two provinces. 

The rosé version must be produced entirely by natural 

fermentation in autoclaves with a winemaking period 

of at least 60 days. During this period, the yeast can 

release compounds such as mannoproteins, which have 

positive effects on colour and effervescence and increase 

sensory and taste complexity. The colour is a pale pink 

which varies in intensity, glistens and displays consistent 

bubbles. The aroma is fine, characteristic and typical of 

the original grapes. Alcohol content must be at least 11% 

vol. and minimum total acidity is 4.5 g/l, with a minimum 

non-reducing extract of 14.0 g/l. 

In its first year of production, rosé Prosecco was a 

resounding success. In just 9 months, 54.2 million bottles 

were produced out of a total 425.5 million of DOC 

Prosecco. Its current share of 13% of total production 

underscores the relevance of the project and demonstrates 

the growing trend worldwide for rosé wines. 

Here, we review a selection of the most significant Prosecco 

wineries to demonstrate the growth of the rosé category. 

Prosecco Rosé offers great versatility in terms 

of food and wine pairing, something which 

Cantina La Marca seeks to capitalise on 

Perfect clusters of Glera grapes grown by one of the 400 members of the 

Montelliana winery 


Piera Martellozzo, who has 

been running the Piera 1899 

winery for the last 25 years 

ITALY 


PIERA 1899 

The story of Piera began in 1899, with farms in the Padua area. It 

is a family business, passed down through the generations, with 

management responsibilities transferred from father to daughter. 

Piera Martellozzo has currently been running the business for 

twenty-five years. 

The company believes that the Covid-19 pandemic has encouraged 

companies to look for innovative and alternative solutions and has 

also opened up new markets and broadened tastes around the world. 

DOC Prosecco Rosé Clâr de Lune is one of the products created by 

Piera 1899 during the pandemic. The excellence of the base wine 

attracted widespread interest. As wine shops and restaurants have 

reopened, its success has grown further, fuelled by its flavour and 

packaging, which is fundamental for this type of wine. 

DOC Prosecco Rosé Piera 1899 is a complex wine which, as a Brut 

Nature (zero dosage) undergoing lengthy fermentation (120 days), 

meets the tastes of even the most demanding palates. 

Being able to use Pinot noir has bolstered the perception of Prosecco, 

especially abroad. It also increases the sensory quality of the wines, 

adding greater structure, pleasant aromas and good persistence. 

These aspects are emphasised by the winery’s decision to use Pinot 


ITALY 


Armando Serena, founder of Montelvini, and his two children Sarah 

and Alberto, who are now at its helm 

noir with light oak maturation. Only 10,000 bottles of DOC 

Prosecco Rosé Clâr de Lune are produced, using grapes from the 

Friuli Grave region. The main markets are Italy, Central Europe, 

Asia and North America. 

MONTELVINI 

Armando Serena founded Montelvini in 1968 and his children 

Sarah and Alberto are now at the helm. Although the company is 

one of the long-standing producers of Asolo Prosecco Superiore 

DOCG, it has willingly taken on the challenge of Prosecco 

Rosé, showing great foresight. The results have undeniably been 

positive, driving both growth for the business and a lot of interest 

and curiosity. All of the company’s customers have shown 

interest, even though the rosé still needs to break into the market 

segment, which is not a lover of Prosecco DOC, thereby raising the 

perception of the label. 

Using Pinot noir certainly helps at international level – initially the 

plan was to use a native varietal such as Raboso, but it is less wellknown. 

Also, Pinot noir has been grown across the region for a long 

time, can be easily exported and consistently lends delicate versatility 

to sparkling wines. The results are excellent and, according to the 

company, Prosecco Rosé has given the entire sparkling and semi- 


ITALY 


sparkling rosé wine segment a boost, even those that are 

not Prosecco. The hope is to use the rosé version to raise the 

general profile of DOC Prosecco. Montelvini produces two 

versions: ‘Promosso’, a DOC Prosecco rosé in the ‘classic’ 

range; and a DOC Prosecco Treviso Rosé in the ‘Serenitatis’ 

collection, with a bottle customised by Montelvini and 

elegant livery. Currently, in addition to sales to Italy, the 

company also exports to 50 countries. All have shown great 

interest, but Prosecco rosé is enjoying particular success in 

the USA, UK, Russia, Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. 

Stefano Gava, Villa Sandi 

VILLA SANDI 

Villa Sandi is located in Crocetta di Montello, in what was 

once “the Garden of Venice”, in a former Palladian school 

dating back to 1622, located at the foot of the Treviso hills. 

DOC Prosecco Rosé has also been a great success for this 

important company. The driving force behind the birth 

of Prosecco rosé was the growing desire among Prosecco 

enthusiasts for a pink sparkling wine. Villa Sandi was one 

of the first companies to believe in the potential of the 

rosé version and respond to demand from international 

markets. Riding the crest of the pink wine wave, the 

combination of Prosecco and rosé was a winner, despite 

being launched during a globally challenging period. 

The new version has opened up new opportunities for 

Prosecco. Its colour might suggest it would appeal more to 

a female audience, but this is actually not the case. DOC 

Prosecco Rosé is enjoyed by all consumers, as it combines 

the freshness and floral and fruity notes of Prosecco with 

the red berries, pomegranate and rose notes of Pinot noir. 

The longer ageing period gives it greater complexity and 

increases its perceived value. It is also very versatile for 

food pairings. It is important for Villa Sandi to emphasise 

the regional connection with Prosecco rosé, using only 

Pinot noir from its own vineyards, where it has grown for 

decades. 

Commercially, Prosecco rosé was immediately embraced 

by the two countries that started the international Prosecco 

boom: the UK and the US. The success then spread 

throughout the world. 

In 2019 the hills of Prosecco Docg became a UNESCO World Heritage Site 

SERENA WINES 

Serena Wines 1881 is located in the heart of the Prosecco 

region, a stone’s throw from Conegliano. The family-run 

company notched up its fourth generation with Giorgio 


ITALY 


Serena Wines, which has always been family-run, is now in its 

fourth generation with Giorgio and fifth with his son Luca who 

currently manages the company 

Serena and is now in its fifth generation, with his son Luca 

Serena at the helm. 

The figures confirm the positive trend for Prosecco rosé, 

both in Italy and internationally, with the USA in pole 

position (1 in 5 bottles of Prosecco sold in the USA is 

pink Prosecco), followed by the UK and then Poland, 

Germany, Romania and Italy, with super/hypermarkets 

stealing a march on the on-trade. In the Italian on-trade, 

partly because of the pandemic, Prosecco rosé is still 

carving out a place for itself, unlike supermarkets which 

are responding very well to the new style. 

This is a high-quality wine where use of the Glera grape 

underscores its regional connections, while Pinot noir 

instils elegance and helps raise the profile of Prosecco 

abroad. It has already become the jewel in the DOC’s 

crown, with the long Charmat method imparting fine, 

persistent bubbles and greater complexity. 

LA TENTIA WINERY - ZARDETTO SPUMANTI 

Zardetto was founded in 1969 by Pino Zardetto who, 

drawing on more than 15 years’ experience as a winemaker 

for important wineries, decided to devote himself to 

Prosecco. Today it is one of the most established wineries in 

the area and, as such, saw Prosecco rosé as an opportunity 


ITALY 


Zardetto has been producing and marketing sparkling wines for more than fifty 

years, mainly made from grapes grown in the eastern part of the Conegliano 

and Valdobbiadene hills 

to raise the profile of the Prosecco appellation across-theboard. 

Despite the Covid-19 pandemic, the company’s 

Prosecco sales remained stable in certain countries where 

the pandemic ran a different course than in Europe 

(e.g. Asia), while the spring and summer re-openings 

brought a wave of positivity and confidence for the entire 

wine chain, particularly in markets where the on-trade is 

significant such as Italy and the USA. Diversifying markets 

has minimised the risks, and target markets are currently 

the USA, Italy, Southeast Asia and Germany. 

Prosecco owes part of its success to the fact that it is a 

‘democratic’ wine, suitable for everyone. Prosecco rosé also 

aims to be a cross-category wine, but showing high quality. 

Use of Pinot noir has made a major contribution to moving 

the category upmarket, enhancing the entire designation. 

It is an internationally recognised grape variety, and for 

Zardetto, it was definitely a good choice. 

The target market is the on-trade and the Prosecco 

Zardetto Rosé 2020 was only presented to Italian and 

international customers in spring 2021, later than the first 

Prosecco rosé releases at the end of 2020. It immediately 

turned heads in the international market, thanks to its 

customised presentation kit, use of the ‘Provençal’ colour 

and innovative packaging, all cues associated with a 

premium Prosecco. 

For the company, the important thing now will be to 

consolidate the Prosecco brand across the globe and help 

customers understand the different styles. 

For three generations the Balbinot family has been running Le Manzane. Ernesto 

is now at the helm with his wife Silvana and their children Marco and Anna 

LE MANZANE 

Le Manzane is a family-run business located in San Pietro 

di Feletto, halfway between the Dolomites and Venice. It 

is ensconced amidst the hills of the province of Treviso, in 

the heart of the Prosecco Superiore uplands. The winery, 

which has its roots in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene 

DOCG area, decided to add a DOC Prosecco rosé to its 

portfolio to demonstrate its responsiveness to current 

market dynamics. After a first year of sales, its Prosecco 

rosé has garnered a very positive response. Despite the 

challenges thrown up by Covid-19, the wine has been well 

received, offering a breath of fresh air, and sales above 

expectations. 

According to Le Manzane, pink Prosecco appeals to young 

people and is attractive to a female audience, but its 

versatility and low alcohol content make it suitable for 


ITALY 


The Manzane harvest 

different occasions, from celebrating a special occasion to an aperitif 

at the end of the day. Certainly Pinot noir fermented as red wine has 

made sparkling Glera more intriguing both from a visual and sensory 

perspective. 

These characteristics have also allowed Prosecco rosé to be welcomed 

by international markets with great enthusiasm and interest and it 

will carve out an increasingly important market share for itself in 

the future. 

The company produced 60,000 bottles in 2020, marketing them 

mainly abroad and in Italy over the summer season. 

BACIO DELLA LUNA 

The Bacio della Luna winery belonging to the Schenk Italia group 

was established in the heart of the renowned Prosecco Superiore 

Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG area. Sustainable winegrowing 

with respect for nature and a hands-off approach in the winery have 

resulted in a range of wines which include the new Prosecco rosé. 

The pink version has capitalised on the success of ‘white’ Prosecco 

and has grown apace, though initial fears that one of the two would 

swallow up, even a part of the other, proved to be unfounded. 

The last two years have been very complex, but the company has 

come out the other side on a positive note, leveraging its multichannel 

distribution network and the increase in supermarket sales. 

These compensated for losses in the on-trade, so much so that in 

October 2021, the company returned to pre-pandemic sales levels. 

Investments in production and communication also facilitated the 

launch of Prosecco Spumante Rosé Millesimato Doc Extra Dry Bacio 

della Luna. 


ITALY 


The Bacio della Luna winery sustainably farms vineyards in the heart of the 

Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG area 

Restricting Prosecco rosé to women, young people or 

special occasions would be counterproductive, as the 

wine has already demonstrated consistent consumption 

all year round by a varied target market, and is linked to 

glamorous, social occasions. 

The Pinot noir produces a fruity profile which emphasises 

body and elegant aromas. Its 100% Veneto provenance 

and fermentation for a minimum of 60 days mean that it 

has more structure than its white alter ego. 

The public has responded well to the new version of 

Prosecco and sales have grown simultaneously with those 

of DOC Prosecco. Slow fermentation has produced a 

more complex, complete wine, and the company believes 

there is still room for it to distinguish itself from white 

Prosecco and certainly has greater versatility in terms of 

food pairing. 

Its key markets are mainly the UK, USA and Italy, but Russia, 

Eastern Europe and Scandinavia are also growing well. 

Evocative images of harvesting in the vineyards of one of the members of the 

Cantina Cooperativa Montelliana 

MONTELLIANA WINERY 

Cantina Montelliana dei Colli Asolani, founded in 1957, 

is a co-operative of winegrowers located in Montebelluna 

(Treviso). It has about 400 members and a total vineyard 

area of approximately 690 hectares, with low yields per 

hectare, which are synonymous with quality. The debut of 

Prosecco rosé has been very successful for the winery, and 

its launch was met with great excitement from the market. 

At Cantina Montelliana too, the feeling is that the rosé 

version does not have a specific target market, as the 

different styles offer different flavour experiences. The real 

difference is in the distribution channels and the off-trade 

is the primary source of success. Super/hypermarkets are 

focusing a lot more on Prosecco rosé than the on-trade. 

The choice of Pinot noir stems mainly from the fact that 

the variety was already authorised by Prosecco regulations 

in the blend for DOC Prosecco, but few people know 

this. This certainly sped up the emergence of Prosecco 

rosé. Some would have preferred Raboso or other native 

varieties, but for others Pinot noir is a winning choice. 

Points of view aside, Pinot noir, in addition to its elegant 

colour, lends Prosecco rosé unique aromas and flavours. 

Internationally, Prosecco rosé is particularly popular, while 

in Italy there is still some scepticism. In the first year of 

rosé sales, despite initial fears, ‘white’ Prosecco continued 

to grow and Prosecco rosé joined Prosecco sales at around 


ITALY 


Valerio Cescon, chairman of Cantina La Marca 

15% of total sales. The significant increase in demand for Prosecco, 

both white and rosé, coupled with stable supply has resulted in price 

increases for the 2021 harvest. 

To enhance the value of the product, consumers need to understand 

that Prosecco rosé is not a better or worse version of the ‘original’ 

Prosecco. Prosecco rosé is simply a different iteration of Prosecco. 

Differing price points can and should be justified by the longer 

production process but also and above all by the effects it has on the 

wine in terms of development of aroma, body and bubbles. Prosecco 

rosé is therefore not a ‘cheap’ version of classic method rosés, nor is it 

a wine for women. “Unique, but for everyone!” should be its slogan. 

The key markets are Australia, the Russian Federation, Finland, 

France, Germany, Great Britain, Greece, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, 

Norway, Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, United States, Sweden, 

Switzerland and Ukraine. 

LA MARCA 

Founded in 1968, La Marca now represents about 5,000 winegrowers 

who manage some 15,000 hectares of vineyards, divided between the 

group’s 8 wineries, all of them located in the heart of the Prosecco 

region in the province of Treviso. The company’s philosophy is based 

on regional focus, co-operation and sustainability. 

Despite the uncertainties caused by Covid-19, its performance 

over the last two years has been better than hoped for, as off-trade 

sales more than compensated for losses in the on-trade. Launching 

Prosecco rosé helped, as it is a wine aimed at everyone with a fresh 


ITALY 


Cantina La Marca focuses heavily on young people and on the Italian 

lifestyle, with help now from Prosecco Rosé 

The headquarters of Cantine Riondo in Monforte d’Alpone (VR) 

and delicate taste. This is partly ascribed to Pinot noir, 

which has always been grown in the local vineyards and 

is constantly the subject of experiments by the company’s 

team of winemakers with excellent results. The fine 

bubbles hold the palate in a velvety embrace, releasing 

the fresh fragrance of red fruits. The feedback for Prosecco 

rosé is enthusiastic and confirms the relevance of the 

company’s project with this type of wine. 

DOC Prosecco Rosé is gaining more and more traction, 

both in Italy and abroad, and is helping to enhance the 

value of the Prosecco brand and its regional origins. The 

markets that have responded most positively are the USA, 

UK and Germany. 

RIONDO WINERIES 

The history of Riondo Wineries, founded in 2008 as a 

branch of the Collis Veneto Wine Group, does not prevent 

the company from looking to the future. Its mission is 

to market wines produced from the grapes of its 2,000 

members. It sells the wines in Italy and around the world 

in the on-trade and in super/hypermarkets. Prosecco rosé 

was an immediate success for the winery, attracting a lot of 

publicity and positive feedback. 

Prosecco rosé is a versatile, enjoyable wine, suitable for 

a variety of drinking occasions and therefore appeals to 

a broad-ranging audience, although the main focus is 

certainly young people; its delicate pink nuances also 

make it particularly attractive to a female audience. Pinot 

noir as a complementary grape to Glera is a valuable 

component of the blend and increases the perceived value 

more than the traditional version. 

The trend was generally positive in all markets, although 

the focus was mainly on the US market, which received the 

new product with a great show of enthusiasm. This was 

followed by Italy, Russia, Germany and Denmark, all of 

which showed a particular propensity to buy. In general, 

Riondo Wineries confirms that rosé sparkling wines are 

increasingly sought-after abroad. 

Consumers have been struck by the pink bubbles from 

Glera and Pinot noir: elegance, quality, conviviality and 

fun are the images associated with Prosecco rosé. The trend 

is quickly becoming a driving force for Riondo Wineries, 

which supplies two different versions: a Prosecco Rosé 

Extra Dry Riondo and a Brut signed Casalforte, in its 

premium line. 


The South African viticultural landscape is historically French, but grape varieties 

from diverse regions in different countries are now gaining currency 

SOUTH AFRICA 

– NEW VARIETIES – 

Mother Nature sets 

the trends 

In South Africa, most new planting material is not being chosen on the basis 

of fashion or novelty but rather because it is best for local climate conditions – 

and climate change. 

By Joanne Gibson - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Roussanne is among the Rhône grapes planted 

at Riebeeksriver for Anthonij Rupert’s Cape 

of Good Hope range 

Winemaker Clarise Sciocatti-Langeveldt 

A 

mere five grape varieties account for over 

54% of all plantings in South Africa (SA), 

namely Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Cabernet 

Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz (in 

that order). The top 10, including Chardonnay, 

Pinotage, Merlot, Ruby Cabernet and Cinsault, account for 

over 86% of plantings, according to SA Wine Industry 

Information & Systems (SAWIS). However, there are 

over 100 varieties planted and while some seem destined 

to remain very niche, such as Austria’s Grüner Veltliner 

(produced by Diemersdal in Durbanville and Neil Joubert 

in Stellenbosch) or Germany’s Sylvaner (first bottled in 

1971 at Stellenbosch estate Overgaauw, the 2020 vintage 

scoring 87 points in the Gilbert & Gaillard International 

Challenge), some are really gaining currency as growers 

realise which ‘cultivars’ are best suited to local climatic 

conditions and soil types. 

Historically, the SA viticultural landscape is 

overwhelmingly French, from the Loire’s Chenin Blanc 

to the Bordeaux grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon 

Blanc and Merlot in the top 10, with Semillon at number 

13 (having once been SA’s most widely planted grape by 

far) followed by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec 

in 15 th , 16 th and 18 th place respectively. In 12 th place, 

Burgundy’s ‘heartbreak grape’ Pinot Noir has found a 

home in cooler areas, such as the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 

and Elgin, but in recent years SA producers have looked 

more to the Rhône. 

In 2007, for example, Franschhoek-based Anthonij Rupert 

Wines purchased the Swartland farm Riebeeksrivier with 

the express aim of growing Rhône grapes on shale 

soils reminiscent of the Côte Rôtie. Syrah, Carignan, 

Cinsault, Durif, Grenache Noir, Marsanne, Mourvèdre 

and Roussanne are among the varieties planted, with 

the Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Caroline 2018 

(50% Marsanne, 36% Roussanne, 13% Chenin and 1% 

Viognier) scoring 90 points. When it comes to singlevarietal 

bottlings, Stellenbosch wine farm Hazendal 

sources Roussanne from a vineyard next to the Berg River 

near Franschhoek, saying that the alluvial soils and large 

white rocks create ideal conditions for slow ripening and 

flavour preservation (88 points for the 2018 vintage). 

Hazendal also produces a rare single-varietal Carignan 

(87 points for the 2017): ‘When given the opportunity 

to truly show itself, Carignan shines brightly as a wine 


SOUTH AFRICA 


‘Innovation is a way 

of life,’ say Creation 

co-owners 

Jean-Claude (JC) 

and Carolyn Martin 

of voluptuous power and elegance,’ says viticulturist/ 

winemaker Clarise Sciocatti-Langeveldt. 

High up on the much cooler Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 

Creation Wines has a great reputation for Pinot Noir and 

Chardonnay, but co-owners Carolyn and Jean-Claude 

Martin planted Viognier in 2003 and Roussanne in 2015, 

always with a white blend in mind. With their Viognier- 

Roussanne 2020 scoring 88 points, it will be exciting to 

see what Grenache Blanc (planted in 2018) and Marsanne 

(coming soon) contribute. ‘While the white blends of the 

southern Rhone have exquisite aromatics, they can fall flat 

with low acidity and high alcohol levels. Being in a cooler 

climate with a long ripening window, we intend to capture 

the beautiful aromatics and keep the natural acidity and 

lower alcohols.’ 

Twee Jonge Gezellen (TJG) in Tulbagh is best known 

for its Krone brand of Cap Classique sparkling wines. 

However, when the team started dreaming of bringing 

back the TJG brand with a premium white and red wine, 

the hot summers and rocky soils of the farm steered them 

towards planting Grenache Noir and Syrah for the red 

(a 92-point rating for the Grenache Noir 2019, sourced 

from Piekenierskloof, promising great things for when 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Twee Jonge Gezellen winemaker Barbara Melck with 

her maiden Grenache Noir 2019 from Piekenierskloof 

Cape Point Vineyards winemaker Riandri Visser can’t 

wait for her maiden 2022 vintage of Sauvignon Gris 

the farm’s own vines reach maturity), and Chenin Blanc, 

Grenache Blanc and Piquepoul Blanc for the white. 

Explains winemaker Barbara Melck: ‘We always knew the 

white would be a Chenin-based blend – true to our SA 

heritage – but we wanted a differentiating character, which 

led us to be one of the first farms to plant Piquepoul Blanc 

in 2018. Piquepoul is known for its high acidity, which 

is going to become even more important in the future, 

thanks to global warming. We are extremely excited about 

the maiden 2022 harvest.’ 

As far as fresh white wines are concerned, Cape Point 

Vineyards on the Cape peninsula has an almost unsurpassed 

reputation for Sauvignon Blanc and Bordeaux-style whites 

– which is why they decided to introduce Sauvignon 

Gris ‘to add body, texture and another dimension’. Says 

winemaker Riandri Visser: ‘We had to wait many years 

before the nursery could provide viable young vines, but 

in 2018 we finally planted the mother block of 1,200 vines 

on the lower part of the estate where it is sheltered from 

the wind, with a lovely view of the ocean. 2022 will be 

our first harvest and we will bottle it separately at first in 

order to learn.’ 


SOUTH AFRICA 


At certified organic producer Waverley Hills, some 20km 

south of Tulbagh, manager/winemaker Johan Delport 

has pioneered the growing and bottling of Marselan, 

a cross between Cabernet and Grenache. Material was 

imported in 2009, and after some years of propagation 

and experimentation, the first commercial vineyard was 

planted at Waverley Hills in 2016, with the maiden 2020 

vintage scoring 90 points. Says Delport: ‘I am very happy 

with our Marselan, the first in SA. It has a dark colour 

and concentrated flavours, with very soft tannins. I would 

recommend it to other local producers, because of its 

drought resistance.’ 

A southern French grape with a much longer track record 

in SA is Cinsault, aka Hermitage (famously crossed with 

Pinot Noir in 1925 to create Pinotage). Once widely 

planted in SA, Cinsault went out of fashion but has made 

a top 10 comeback thanks to people increasingly wanting 

lighter reds. ‘Like Chenin Blanc, it was a workhorse due 

to its high yields,’ says Arco Laarman of Laarman Wines 

whose Focal Point 2019 from a Bottelary Hills vineyard 

near Stellenbosch has scored 91 points. ‘Now, however, 

thanks to older vines being available, the wines show 

much more concentration. I believe Cinsault can reach 

the same status we have achieved with Chenin,’ he says, 

with 91 points for another Bottelary Hills Cinsault, the 

Kaapzicht Skuinsberg 2020, adding weight to this idea. 

Waverley Hills winemaker Johan Delport 

GRAZIE ITALIA 

Although not widely planted, there have been small 

pockets of Italian grapes growing in SA for decades. 

Barbera, first planted in Durbanville in the 1920s, was 

brought ‘home’ to Merwida Wines in the Breede River 

Valley in the late 1990s by co-owner Schalk van der 

Merwe. Today, his son Albertus reports that almost five 

hectares flourish in the farm’s rich floodplain soils. 

‘Barbera is one of the few red wine grape cultivars with the 

ability to retain high natural acidity in the warm Southern 

Africa climate. This combined with its low tannins and 

spicy undertones has allowed it to become one of our 

flagship wines, winning numerous awards and acquiring 

a loyal and ever-increasing following.’ 

Certainly the Merwida Barbera 2019 impressed the Gilbert 

& Gaillard tasting panel as a ‘great example of the variety’ 

(90 points), shining alongside the Merwida Papenkuils 

Waterblommetjie Pinot Grigio 2021 (87 points) from an 

Johan Delport recommends planting Marselan because of its 

drought resistance 


SOUTH AFRICA 


At Merwida, six members of the seventh-generation Van der Merwe family are currently involved at either the winery or on the farms 

11-year-old block. ‘The Pinot Grigio ripens nice and early in the 

season and has really impressed us with its subtle but poignant 

floral notes, good natural acidity and well-balanced structure.’ 

SA’s first Nebbiolo seems to have arrived around 1910, although 

better clones were imported in the 1990s, when Steenberg in 

Constantia became the first farm to bottle it as a single-varietal wine. 

Meanwhile, Peter Finlayson of Bouchard Finlayson in the Hemelen-Aarde 

Valley decided to combine it with Sangiovese and Barbera, 

along with Pinot Noir, Shiraz and Mourvèdre, to create a memorable 

left-field blend whose name – Hannibal – is ‘a symbolic expression 

of the connection between the Old and New Worlds of viticulture’ 

(the Carthaginian general Hannibal was famously carried by an 

African elephant when he invaded Italy). 

SA’s first Sangiovese was planted at Boplaas in Calitzdorp in 1982, 

with better clones for high-quality wines imported in 1991. The 

Jasper Raats Single Vineyard Wines range includes a rare Stellenbosch 

interpretation, named Silk Weaver, grown on the lower southwestern 

slopes of Helderberg Mountain using a traditional Pergola or Tendone 

trellising system. ‘This one-hectare vineyard enjoys refreshingly cool 


SOUTH AFRICA 


breezes from the Atlantic Ocean during the day and cool 

night air flowing down the mountain, resulting in even 

ripening of the berries and good natural acidity,’ says wine 

famer/vigneron Jasper Raats. ‘The vines are meticulously 

cared for by hand to ensure maximum quality and the 

wine is organically produced.’ 

A far more recent Italian import is the Sardinian grape 

Nero d’Avola, which was first planted at Bosman Family 

Vineyards in Wellington in 2004. Says owner Petrus 

Bosman: ‘Nero doesn’t just survive; it thrives under the 

bright African sun. Even on the hottest day, the grapes 

remain vibrant and fresh in the vineyard, needing much 

less water than their neighbouring varietals.’ Cellarmaster 

Corlea Fourie agrees: ‘It thrives in our warm climate, with 

higher natural acidities than some of its red counterparts. 

The wine we have bottled since 2013 is still medium 

bodied, but I believe structure and extraction depth will 

follow over the next few years as the vineyards come into 

their stride.’ 

Other varieties thriving in Bosman’s Wellington vineyards 

include a Cinsault and a skin-fermented Grenache Blanc. 

‘Our viticulture landscape is sure to change in future when 

we start to adapt to water-saving strategies and to droughtand 

heat-resistant cultivars,’ says Fourie. 

Arco Laarman believes SA can achieve the same recognition for Cinsault 

that it already has for Chenin Blanc 

OBRIGADO PORTUGAL 

Thanks to SA having a proud history of Port-style fortified 

wine production, it’s perhaps not surprising that several 

Portuguese grapes have been cultivated locally since the 

1920s, with some of them now also very successfully used 

for table wines. For example, the Gilbert & Gaillard panel 

was very impressed with the Moordenaarskloof Tinta 

Barocca 2019 produced by Stellenbosch estate Dornier 

from a Swartland vineyard, awarding it 92 points. 

‘That vineyard was a lucky find,’ says Dornier winemaker 

Philip van Staden. ‘We were buying Chenin Blanc from 

the grower when we noticed the Tinta Barocca. When we 

asked about it, they said they were going to pull it out 

because they were selling it to the local co-operative at a 

loss. We immediately offered to pay double. It makes a 

phenomenal wine, with all the fruit, concentration and 

structure you get in Port, with soft velvety tannins.’ 

When it comes to Portuguese whites, it was a blend of 

the Madeiran grape Verdelho with Chenin Blanc and 

Chardonnay that really impressed the panel: the Cavalli 

Pinot Noir pioneer Peter Finlayson, the mastermind behind 

Bouchard Finlayson’s innovative Hannibal blend in the 1990s 


Bosman owner Petrus 

Bosman says Nero d’Avola 

thrives under the bright 

African sun 

Jasper Raats has achieved an 89-point rating for his organic 

Stellenbosch Sangiovese, The Silk Weaver 2019 

Dornier winemaker Philip van Staden rescued an unwanted 

block of Tinta Barocca in the Swartland 

Cavalli winemaker Craig Barnard appreciates the uniqueness and freshness of Verdelho 

Bosman cellarmaster 

Corlea Fourie predicts 

a widespread shift to 

heat-resistant cultivars 

in coming years 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Cremello 2020 (91 points). ‘We planted the Verdelho in 

2000,’ says winemaker Craig Barnard. ‘It was planted so 

that we could have a unique offering, initially as part of a 

complex blend, but as the vines got older the quality really 

started to shine through so we took the decision also to 

bottle it as an individual wine. It has an amazing acidic 

backbone which lends the wine a vibrant freshness. When 

used with older barrels, you are able to get great structure 

in the wine without impacting on the floral, perfumed and 

exotic aromatics. I definitely think more producers should 

consider planting it. It is well suited to our terroir as the 

summer heat allows the vines to ripen early and evenly, 

thereby retaining freshness.’ 

It was memories of drinking Portuguese Vinho Verde 

on family in Mozambique that first got the Newton 

Johnson family thinking about planting ‘Alvarinho’ at 

their eponymous farm in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde 

Valley with its maritime climate. Their research led them 

across the Spanish border to the classical expression of 

the grape that they most wanted to pursue: Albariño from 

the granite soils of Rias Baxas. ‘As the Upper Hemel-en- 

Aarde is an “island” of granite between the shale soils 

of our neighbouring appellations, we had an unusual 

opportunity to work with a white variety suitable for 

our granite soils and maritime climate,’ says managing 

director Bevan Newton Johnson. 

‘We sourced some material from UC Davis in California.’ 

Made by Newton Johnson’s brother, Gordon, and sisterin-law, 

Nadia, the Albariño has been enthusiastically 

received since the first general release in 2015, with the 

2020 scoring 90 points. ‘The wine is fermented and 

matured in a combination of concrete eggs, old oak 

barrels and stainless steel tanks to preserve the clear 

aromatics of the grape, along with good mid-palate texture 

and fresh acidity to finish off. We are getting a good feel 

for it after eight vintages, except the acidity levels are still 

too high at our preferred picking stage that we have to 

leave it out there a bit longer before we pick, unlike our 

other wines where we err on slightly lighter alcohols to 

retain freshness and perfumed fruit. These are nuances we 

have yet to fully master.’ 

Leliefontein in Wellington is home to the Bosman family, who also own 

Bosman Adama, the largest vine nursery in Africa 

MORE FROM THE MED 

At Dornier, mentioned previously, another Spanish variety 

that has taken time to master is Tempranillo, the noble 

Dornier’s former owner, the late Swiss artist Christoph Dornier, had a passion 

for architecture, as the estate’s landmark cellar demonstrates 


SOUTH AFRICA 


The husband-and-wife winemaking team at Newton Johnson, 

Gordon and Nadia Newton Johnson 

Gary and Kathy Jordan plan to make their Assyrtiko in a fresh, focused, 

mineral style, without any oak influence 

grape perhaps most famous in Rioja. ‘We wanted something 

to set us apart, so in 2010 we grafted Tempranillo onto a onehectare 

block of Cabernet,’ says Philip van Staden. ‘It grew very 

vigorously and the early wines were a bit green and extremely 

tannic. We decided to use Smart-Dyson trellising to get more 

sunlight into the bunches, which helped with the greenness, 

and then we researched how they handle the wine in Spain 

and realised that it needs much longer oak ageing. It now 

spends one year in older French oak, one year in one-third 

new American, and then goes back into French oak for about 

44 months in total. You can’t be in a hurry with Tempranillo, 

you have to be patient,’ he says, his patience now rewarded 

with a 93-point rating. 

More patience is still required for SA’s first Assyrtiko to bear 

fruit. The drought- and wind-resistant grape from the Greek 

island of Santorini, where vines planted in igneous soils are 

famously trained in ‘koulara’ baskets, has found a new home 

in SA thanks to Gary and Kathy Jordan of Jordan Wines in 

Stellenbosch. In 2019 they planted vines on a stony hilltop 

with a north-facing aspect, strong south-easterly winds, and 

soil consisting of broken-up granite. ‘Assyrtiko must be planted 

in sight of the sea – which ours is, overlooking False Bay – and 

some of the vines will be trellised while the others will be 

trained into baskets,’ says Jordan. ‘So far it’s looking good!’ 


STARS 

– & WINE – 

Courteney Cox: 

“Just like in other areas, 

women bring a fresh 

perspective to wine” 

She was in her early twenties when she appeared on camera for the first time in 1984, 

swaying her hips in front of Bruce Springsteen in the memorable video clip of 

‘Dancing in the Dark’ by Brian de Palma. It would get her instantly noticed. 

Ten years later, Martha Kaufmann, co-writer and producer of the series ‘Friends’, 

gave her the role of Monica Geller. It was a life-changer and she went on to become a global 

star. While waiting for her big comeback in 2022 in a new opus of ‘Scream’, 

the beautiful Alabama native speaks to us about wine emphatically and with conviction... 

Interview by Frank Rousseau, our correspondent in the United States 

Photographs: all rights reserved 

With her sun-kissed beauty and magnetic eyes, this Alabama native 

has always been close to nature and the simple things in life 

It has often been said and/or written that wine is 

men’s business. Is this still true in your opinion? 

I think there are still many sommeliers who tend to 

have a man taste a freshly opened bottle of wine rather 

than a woman! The same applies when you are invited 

to the homes of some “conservative” people, who still 

think that a woman’s “job” is to watch over the roast in 

the oven while the man is in charge of getting the wine 

from the cellar! But mentalities are of course changing. 

I once chatted with a woman who had taken over her 

father’s business because he no longer had the strength 

to look after his vines. It wasn’t the man’s sons who 

took over but his daughter. To perpetuate his legacy, 

she had gone as far as to study oenology at university. 

Her father had only given hands-on, practical training 


STARS 

– & WINE – 

and in her eyes, that was not enough. I think deep 

down she knew she had to prove herself. As her every 

move was now being scrutinised, she equipped herself 

to equal and even surpass men! 

After the success of Friends, she found fame again in the ‘Cougar Town’ 

series where she plays a gregarious middle-aged woman determined 

to have a good time 

What do you think women contribute to the wine 

business? 

Whether they are cellar masters, oenologists, winegrowers, 

sommeliers or winemakers, they bring a 

fresh perspective to wine. There is no denying that 

women are capable of taking more risks, of being more 

enterprising and launching genuinely novel projects. 

From the container to its contents, including the shape 

of the bottle, the design of the label, the blends, etc., 

they like to think outside the box. And that’s not 

just true of the wine world. For gastronomy, design, 

painting or whatever, women take a decidedly more 

modern, more enterprising approach to things! 

Drinking wine on her own is out of the question – she loves to share it with 

her friends, and has been known to drink it in the kitchen! 

But what about you, Courteney, what is your intimate 

relationship with wine? 

I don’t really see the point of uncorking a bottle on 

your own! That is so sad! It’s a bit like booking a 

table in a top restaurant and eating all by yourself! I 

love to “enjoy life”, with my friends from ‘Friends’ for 

example. Matt (LeBlanc) has travelled a lot. He tells 

us about the wines he has tasted all over the world. 

Jennifer (Aniston) really knows her stuff and she can’t 

stand men who talk down to her about wine. Lisa 

(Kudrow) married a Frenchman. Consequently, she 

only has eyes for the wines produced in her beloved’s 

home country. But of all of us, the one who knows the 

most about wine is David (Schwimmer). A few years 

ago he played a sommelier in a series called ‘Feed the 

Beast’. To be credible on camera, he trained with one of 

the best sommeliers in New York. I’m not saying that 

David would be able to write a thesis on wine, but one 

thing is for sure, the person who tries to palm him off 

with a basic wine in place of a grand cru hasn’t been 

born yet! 


CONTACT 

– DETAILS – 

CIGARS – PAGES 8 – 9 

• Don Rodrigo Cigars Geneva 

+41 (78) 749.51.69 

www.donrodrigocigars.com 

CHAMPAGNE – PAGES 10 – 26 

• Champagne Besserat de Bellefon : 

Tel. +33 3 26 78 52 16 - 

www.besseratdebellefon.com 

• Champagne Bollinger: 

Tel. +33 3 26 53 33 66 - 

www.champagne-bollinger.fr 

• Champagne Gosset: 

Tel. +33 3 26 56 99 56 - 

www.champagne-gosset.com 

• Champagne Mandois: 

Tel. +33 3 26 54 03 18 - 

www.champagne-mandois.fr 

• Champagne J. M. Gobillard & fils: 

Tel. +33 3 26 51 00 24 - 

www.champagne-gobillard.com 

• Champagne de Barfontarc: 

Tel. +33 3 25 27 07 09 - 

www.champagne-barfontarc.com 

• Champagne Dom Caudron: 

Tel. +33 3 26 52 45 17 - 

www.domcaudron.fr 

• Champagne Maurice Vesselle 

+33 3 26 57 00 81 - 

www.champagnemauricevesselle.com 

RHONE VALLEY – PAGES 28 – 35 

• Maison Ogier: Tel. +33 4 90 39 32 41 - 

ogier.fr 

• Domaine Martin: 

Tel. +33 4 90 37 23 20 - 

domaine-martin.com 

• Domaine des Arches: 

Tel. + 33 4 75 27 11 00 - 

domaine-des-arches.com 

• Château de l’Isolette: 

Tel. +33 4 90 74 56 79 - 

chateau-isolette.fr 

VINS DE FRANCE – PAGES 36 – 44 

• Famille Bougrier: 

Tel. + 33 2 54 71 31 02 - 

www.famille-bougrier.fr 

• Barton & Guestier: 

Tel. + 33 5 56 95 48 00 - 

www.barton-guestier.com 

• Les Domaines Auriol: 

Tel. + 33 4 68 58 15 15 - 

www.saint-auriol.com 

• Domaine Poiron-Dabin: 

Tel. + 33 2 40 06 56 42 - 

www.poiron-dabin.com 

• Badet Clément: Tel. +33 3 80 61 46 31 - 

www.badet-clement.com 

• Domaine de l’Ermitage: 

Tel. + 33 2 48 26 87 46 - 

www.delafarge.com 

• SARL Paquet-Montagnac: 

Tel. + 33 3 79 35 00 10 - 

www.paquet-montagnac.com 

BORDEAUX – PAGES 45 – 51 

• Château Palais Cardinal: 

Tel. +33 5 57 24 32 27 - 

palais-cardinal.fr 

• Château Tour Castillon: 

Tel. +33 5 56 41 54 98 - 

www.vignoblespeyruse.com 

• Château Tourteau Chollet: 

Tel. + 33 5 56 67 47 78 - 

www.lesvignoblesdemaxime.com 

• Domaine de Lauranceau: 

Tel. +33 9 62 39 81 95 - 

www.montagnevin.fr 

BORDEAUX – PAGES 52 – 55 

• Vignobles Roux: Tel. +33 5 56 61 98 93 

- www.vignobles-roux.com 

CIDERS – PAGES 56 – 63 

• Ferme de la Sapinière: 

Tel. + 33 2 31 22 40 51- 

www.fermedelasapiniere.com 

• Cidrerie Kerloïck: Tel. +33 2 96 34 80 14 - 

www.kerloick.bzh 

• Cidrerie Viard: Tel. + 33 2 31 92 09 15 - 

www.cidrebayeux.com 

• Cidrerie Kerisac: 

Tel. + 33 2 40 87 61 55 - 

www.kerisac.com 

• Cidre Val de Rance: 

Tel. 33 + 2 96 83 20 02 - 

www.valderance.com 

• Les Celliers de l’Odet: 

Tel. + 33 2 98 59 63 45 - 

www.chateau-lezergue.com 

• Cidrerie de la Brique: 

Tel. + 33 2 33 40 19 27 - 

www.cidrerielabrique.com 

• Maison Sassy: Tel. + 33 6 77 62 79 88 - 

www.maison-sassy.com 

• Cidre Le Brun: Tel. + 33 2 98 54 42 25 - 

www.cidrelebrun.com 

HUNGARY – PAGES 64 – 73 

• Samuel Tinon: Tel. +36 20 994 0032 - 

http://samueltinon.com 

• Holdvölgy: Tel. +36 70 391 46 43 - 

https://holdvolgy.com 

• Barta Pince: Tel. +36 30 324 2521 - 

https://bartapince.com 

• Erzsébet Pince: Tel. +36 20 802 0137 - 

https://erzsebetpince.hu 

• Kikelet Pince: Tel. +36 30 636 9046 - 

www.tokajkikelet.hu 

• Oremus: Tel: +36 20 251 2240 - 

https://www.temposvegasicilia.com/ 

en/terroirs/5/tokaj-oremus 

• Zoltán Demeter: Tel. +36 20 806 0000 - 

https://www.demeterzoltan.hu/en/ 

SPAIN – PAGES 74 – 83 

• Alta Alella: Tel. +34 937 689 307 - 

https://altaalella.wine 

• Clos Montblanc: Tel. +34 977 887 030 - 

https://closmontblanc.com 

• Bodegas Valdeorite: 

Tel. +34 670 466 894 - 

https://bodegavaldeorite.com 

• Castell Sant Antoni: 

Tel. +34 93 818 30 99 - 

https://castellsantantoni.com 

• Costers Del Sio: Tel. +34 973 424 062 - 

www.costersio.com 

• Ramon Canals: Tel. +34 93 775 54 46 - 

www.ramoncanals.com 

• Raventos Codorníu: 

Tel. + 34 93 818 32 32- 

www.raventoscodorniu.com 

PORTUGAL – PAGES 84 – 89 

• Casa Santos Lima: 

Tel. +351 263 760 621 - 

https://casasantoslima.com 

 

PUGLIA – PAGES 90 – 99 

• Amastuola: Tel. +39 099 990 80 25 - 

www.amastuola.it 

• Conti Zecca: Tel. +39 0832 925613 - 

https://contizecca.it 

• Cantina Due Palme: 

Tel. +39 0831 617865 - 

www.cantineduepalme.wine 

• Podere Don Cataldo - Angelo Rocca & 

Sons: Tel. +39 039 650151 - 

https://poderedoncataldo.com 


CONTACT 

– DETAILS – 

• Tenute Al Bano Carrisi: 

Tel. +39 0831 619211 - 

www.vinicolalbano.com 

PROSECCO – PAGES 100 – 110 

• Piera 1899: Tel. +39 0434 963100 - 

https://piera1899.com 

• Montelvini: Tel. +39 0423 8777 - 

www.montelvini.it 

• Villa Sandi: Tel. +39 0423 8607 - 

www.villasandi.it 

• Serena Wines: Tel. +39 0438 2011 - 

www.serenawines.it 

• La Tentia Winery - Zardetto Spumanti: 

Tel. +39 080 6450707 - 

www.latentiawinery.com 

• Le Manzane: Tel. +39 392 5162811 - 

www.lemanzane.com 

• Bacio Della Luna: 

Tel. +39 0423 983111 - 

www.baciodellaluna.it 

• Montelliana Winery: 

Tel. +39 0423 22 661 - 

www.montelliana.com 

• La Marca: Tel. +39 0422 814681 - 

www.lamarcaprosecco.com 

• Riondo Wineries: 

Tel. +39 045 6104346 - 

www.cantineriondo.com 

SOUTH AFRICA – PAGES 111 – 120 

• Anthonij Rupert Cape of Good Hope 

Wines: Tel. +27 21 874 9041 - 

www.capeofgoodhopewines.com 

• Bosman Family Vineyards: 

Tel. +27 21 873 3170 - 

www.bosmanwines.com 

• Bouchard Finlayson: 

Tel. +27 28 312 3515 - 

www.bouchardfinlayson.co.za 

• Cape Point Vineyards: 

Tel. +27 21 789 0900 - 

www.cpv.co.za 

• Cavalli Wine & Co: 

Tel. +27 21 855 3218 - 

www.cavalliestate.com 

• Creation Wines: 

Tel. +27 28 212 1107 - 

www.creationwines.com 

• Dornier Wines: Tel. +27 21 880 0557 - 

www.dornier.co.za 

• Hazendal: Tel. +27 21 903 5034 - 

www.hazendal.co.za 

• Jasper Raats Single Vineyard Wines: 

Tel. +27-21-855-2005 - 

www.jasperraats.co.za 

• Kaapzicht: Tel. +27 21 906 1620 - 

www.kaapzicht.co.za 

• Laarman Wines: 

Tel. +27 83 546 1146 - 

www.laarmanwines.com 

• Merwida Wines: 

Tel. +27 23 349 1144 - 

www.merwida.com 

• Newton Johnson Wines: 

Tel. +27 28 312 3862 www. 

newtonjohnson.com/contact 

• Overgaauw Estate: 

Tel. +27 21 881 3815 - 

www.overgaauw.co.za 

• Twee Jonge Gezellen: 

Tel. +27 23 230 0680 - 

www.kronecapclassique.co.za 

• Waverley Hills: Tel. +27 23 231 0002 - 

www.waverleyhills.co.za 

• Jordan Wine Estate 

+27 21 8813 441- 

www.jordanwines.com 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, 

François Bezuidenhout, Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, Jamal Awni 

Rayyis, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Camille Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Alain Echalier, 

Joanne Gibson, Florian Glémot, Santiago Jiménez, Sylvain Patard, Frank Rousseau, 

Francesco Saverio Russo, Christelle Zamora. 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Rosa Almeida - CS Traduções, Marika Quarti 

Sales and Marketing Director: Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26 

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

Bordeaux - Charentes: 

Frédéric Comet: +33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com 

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: 

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - Roussillon: 

Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Italy: 

Sandra Sirvente: (+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Spain, Portugal: 

Thibault Leray: (+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com 

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil: +33 1 34 62 89 30 

Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25 

Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65 

Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé: +33 6 87 27 12 65 

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa: Petru Venter, General Manager: 

+27 82 787 1784 - petru@gilbertgaillard.com - 

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 - oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com 

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219 

International Distribution: 

Pineapple Media Ltd - http://www.pineapple-media.com 

For more information, please contact Ana Gisbert: 

ana@pineapple-media.com 

Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal 

representative and Editorial director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Fourth quarter 2021 • Legal publication n° pending • ISSN 2110-6762 

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given 

for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


Pages 126 to 138 

TOP WINES 

OUR SELECTION 

— CHAMPAGNE - CAVA - PROSECCO ROSÉ - SPARKLING WINES - HUNGARY — 

The best of WINTER 2021 

Our Winter 2021 selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is featured on pages 126 to 138. As usual, 

we have chosen to present wines by region (CHAMPAGNE, PROSECCO...), then by appellation in each region, 

with each company or chateau listed in alphabetical order, and finally by tasting scores in descending order. 

THE TASTING PANEL 

FRANCE 

FRANCE 

FRANCE 

Philippe Gaillard 

Olivier Delorme 

James Turnbull 

François Gilbert 

SOUTH AFRICA 

SOUTH AFRICA 

Sylvain Patard 

Matthieu Gaillard 

François Bezuidenhout 

Wine scores 

Our tasting notes are scored on a 100 point scale, which gives 

enough range to evaluate every characteristic that we taste in a 

wine. Below are the different levels that make up this scoring: 

95-100/100: an outstanding wine, when a great “terroir” meets 

exceptional winemaking expertise. 

90-94/100: a superlative wine combining finesse, complexity and 

remarkable winemaking. 

85-89100: a wine of extremely high standard, which we enjoyed for its 

typicity and character. 

80-84/100: a quality wine combining balance, structure and neatness for 

a pleasurable wine drinking experience. 

75-79/100: a wine deemed acceptable. 

70-74/100: a wine with defects, unacceptable. 

65-69/100: a wine with major defects, inadmissible. 

50-64/100: unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale. 

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in our publications. 

Wine characteristics 

■ RED WINE 

■ DRY WHITE WINE 

■ SWEET WHITE WINE 

ORG: Organic Wine. 

■ SPARKLING BRUT 

■ SPARKLING EXTRA-BRUT 

■ SPARKLING BRUT ROSE 

CONV: In the process of converting to organic 

production. 

CR: This statement refers to sensible farming methods 

where use of inputs or agri-chemicals are restricted. 

These include fertilisers or other crop protection 

products, the aim being to limit their impact on the 

environment to a minimum. 

HVE: This French endorsement guarantees that all of the 

agricultural practices used across the farm safeguard the 

natural ecosystem and reduce environmental pressure – 

on the soils, water and biodiversity, for example – to a 

minimum. 

AGEABILITY 

D= DRINK NOW D= DRINK NOW OR KEEP D= KEEP 

WINTER 2021 - GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 125

FRANCE - Champagne 

PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°46_Mise en page 1 04/12/2021 11:07 Page 2 

CHAMPAGNES 

OUR WINTER 

SELECTION 

Our absolute must-read 2021 selection 

of the 76 best labels from across the 

Champagne spectrum, all of them rated 

90/100 and above. 

CHAMPAGNE GOSSET 98/100 

D Brut - Celebris 2008 : Light orangy hue. Mature 

nose showing great complexity with a mix of ripe red 

berry fruit notes, orange peel and toast. The palate is 

complex yet ethereal and distils the same racy aromas 

over impressive length. 

Price: € 175.00 

http://www.champagne-gosset.com 

Champagne Gosset 

+33 3 26 56 99 56 

CHAMPAGNE BOLLINGER 97/100 

CR D Brut PN VZ16 : Appealing light gold. Very 

delicate nose of red berry fruits. The palate shows a 

texture that is ethereal yet fleshy with measured vinosity 

and tension supporting aroma. Very long finish of red 

berry fruits. 

Price: € 90.00 

http://www.champagne-bollinger.fr 

Champagne Bollinger 

+33 3 26 53 33 66 

CHAMPAGNE PERRIER-JOUËT 97/100 

D Brut Belle Epoque 2013 : Magnificent glistening 

light gold. The nose is delicate yet expressive and 

complex with a white fruit note, floral and biscuit touch. 

The palate shows more of the same and is silkily textured 

with remarkable tension and full-on aromas. Stunning. 

Price: € 142.00 

http://www.perrier-jouet.com 

Champagne Perrier-Jouët 

+33 3 26 53 38 00 

CHAMPAGNE PERRIER-JOUËT 96/100 

D Brut rosé Belle Epoque 2012 : Beautiful pale 

orangy colour. The nose delivers a mix of toast and 

citrus fruits. Wonderfully textured, very elegant palate 

with the same aromas becoming more powerful through 

to the finish. This is a rosé Champagne for fine dining 

pairing with sweetbreads. 

Price: € 250.00 

http://www.perrier-jouet.com 

Champagne Perrier-Jouët 

+33 3 26 53 38 00 

CHAMPAGNE BOLLINGER 95/100 

CR D Brut rosé : Beautiful pale orangy hue. 

Deliciously aromatic nose midway between ripe 

orange and biscuit notes. The palate is very silky and 

echoes the citrus nose aromatics. Beautiful freshness on 

the finish rekindles aromatic expression in this versatile 

rosé Champagne. 

Price: € 64.00 

http://www.champagne-bollinger.fr 

Champagne Bollinger 

+33 3 26 53 33 66 

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER 

96/100 

■ Brut Grande Sendrée 2010 

CONV D Brilliant pale gold. Expressive, compelling 

nose intermixing fresh fruits and a roasted coffee 

touch. The attack on the palate is intense with lots of 

character, weight and freshness. The finish is chiselled 

and persistent with a saline touch. Art at its finest. 

Price: € 82 

PRESENTATION : The estate’s 57 hectares of vines are 

located in the heart of the Côte des Bar, on Urville hill. 

Planted by the Gallo-Romans in the early modern era, the 

vines were some of the first to be farmed by Cistercian 

monks from Clairvaux Abbey. Fast forward to the 20th 

century and Maison Drappier’s claim to fame is that it was 

the supplier of a prestigious neighbour, namely General 

de Gaulle. Pinot noir accounts for the lion’s share of the 

vineyards, with 70%, along with equal shares of 

Chardonnay (15%) and Pinot Meunier. These are 

complemented by Champagne’s heirloom grape varieties 

that are Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Blanc Vrai and 

Fromenteau. Maison Drappier produces very distinctive 

Champagnes showing extremely consistent quality and 

spending time in its splendid 12th-century vaulted cellars. 

This is a top quality Champagne house which bowls us 

over with this remarkable ‘Grande Sendrée 2010’ label. 

Tel.: +33 3 25 27 40 15 

E-mail: info@champagne-drappier.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-drappier.com 

CHAMPAGNE COLLET 95/100 

D Brut 1er cru Esprit Couture 2012 : Lovely brilliant 

light gold. The nose is extremely delicate and displays 

red fruit, brioche and biscuit aromas. The palate offers 

up a marvellous combination of density, freshness and 

expression with intense, persistent, noble aromas. 

Price: € 145.00 

http://www.champagne-collet.com 

Champagne Collet 

+33 3 26 55 15 88 

CHAMPAGNE DE SAINT-GALL 95/100 

D Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Orpale 2008 

: Beautiful brilliant yellow-gold. The nose is intense 

yet delicate with toast tones and shows incredible 

precision. Good freshness, intensity and finesse on 

the palate. A superlative Champagne offering a great 

rendition of its quality provenance. 

http://www.de-saint-gall.com 

Champagne de Saint-Gall 

+33 3 26 57 94 22 

CHAMPAGNE G.H. MUMM 95/100 

D Brut blanc de blancs grand cru - RSRV - Cuvée 

Reservée 2014 : Appealing pale gold with green tints. 

The nose shows white flowers and meadow aromas 

on first pour with more mineral scents after airing. 

The palate is firmly rooted in the same, terroir-driven 

aromatic spectrum. This is a top-flight Chardonnay 

pairing with roast turbot. 

Price: € 72.00 

http://www.mumm.com 

Champagne G.H. Mumm & Cie 

+33 3 26 49 59 69 

CHAMPAGNE GOSSET 95/100 

D Brut Grand Blanc de Blancs : Brilliant, clear pale 

hue. Delicate toast on the nose with chicory accents 

and a subtle touch of pastry. The palate is silky yet 

tense with aromas perfectly showcased by freshness. 

Very purely styled. 

Price: € 52.00 

http://www.champagne-gosset.com 

Champagne Gosset 

+33 3 26 56 99 56 

CHAMPAGNE MAURICE VESSELLE 95/100 

D Extra brut grand cru Les Hauts Chemins 2011 

: Beautiful clear, yellow-gold. Mature nose of berry 

stone fruits. The palate is very full at point of entry with 

pleasant softness and a tension that carries aroma over 

considerable length. Set aside for delicacies. 

http://www.champagnemauricevesselle.com 


+33 3 26 57 00 81 

CHAMPAGNE BESSERAT DE BELLEFON 94/100 

D Brut blanc de blancs grand cru : Beautiful clear, 

pale yellow. Stellar quality fruit on the nose which is 

then augmented by elegant toast tones. Incredible 

completeness, fullness, intensity and complex, persistent 

aromas on the palate of this consummate Champagne. 

Price: € 49.00 

http://www.besseratdebellefon.com 

Champagne Besserat de Bellefon, depuis 1843 

+33 3 26 78 52 16 

For a detailed explanation of scores and wine 

colours and the meaning of symbols and abbreviations, 

refer to the instructions mentionned on 

page 125. 

126 

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CHAMPAGNE COLLARD-PICARD 94/100 

CR D Extra brut grand cru blanc de blancs - Dom. 

Picard : Clear light gold. Delicate nose marrying pastry, 

white fruit and biscuit notes. The palate combines lovely 

weight, freshness and ripe fruit aromas that linger. A 

very successful Champagne that would work wonders 

with shellfish. 

Price: € 37.00 

http://www.champagnecollardpicard.fr 

Champagne Collard-Picard 

+33 3 26 52 36 93 

CHAMPAGNE G.H. MUMM 94/100 

D Brut blanc de noirs grand cru RSRV - Cuvée 

Réservée 2012 : Beautiful golden hue. Vinous nose of 

ripe red berry fruits. The palate is fleshy and robust and 

showcases more of the same opulent aromas. A foodfriendly 

Champagne that would make a great match 

for sweetbreads. 

Price: € 83.00 

http://www.mumm.com 

Champagne G.H. Mumm & Cie 

+33 3 26 49 59 69 

CHAMPAGNE GEORGES VESSELLE 94/100 

CR D Brut Nature Grand Cru 2013 : Lovely brilliant 

yellow-gold. Intense nose of ripe red fruits with a subtle 

biscuit tone. The palate swings pleasantly from vinosity 

to freshness and tension and shows more of the same 

chiselled and very persistent aromas. Such purity! 

Price: € 29.10 

http://www.champagne-vesselle.fr 

Champagne Georges Vesselle 

+33 3 26 57 00 15 

CHAMPAGNE COLLARD-PICARD 93/100 

CR D Extra brut Archives 2012 : Pale gold. The 

nose is expressive and delicate with floral, dried fruit 

and sweet spice tones. The palate is very fresh and also 

shows intensity and real elegance. This is a top-flight 

Champagne for a gourmet meal. 

Price: € 155.00 

http://www.champagnecollardpicard.fr 

Champagne Collard-Picard 

+33 3 26 52 36 93 

CHAMPAGNE DEVAUX 93/100 

D Brut D Millésimé 2009 : Very pale yellow. Very 

pure, delicate nose showing almond and white fruit 

tones and a floral touch. Extremely pure expression 

on the palate with very energetic aromas that offer 

real persistent fruitiness on the finish. A successful 

Champagne. 

Price: € 69.00 

http://www.champagne-devaux.fr 

Champagne Devaux 

+33 3 25 38 30 65 

CHAMPAGNE GEORGES VESSELLE 93/100 

CR D Brut rosé grand cru : Beautiful light orangy 

hue. Delicate, elegant nose offering up ripe strawberry 

tones and a faint tangy touch reminiscent of orange. 

The palate shows textbook expression, balance and 

softness. Lovely intense finish where the citrus perfumes 

are more upfront. 

Price: € 26.30 

http://www.champagne-vesselle.fr 

Champagne Georges Vesselle 

+33 3 26 57 00 15 

Prices mentioned in this book are guideline 

and can vary depending on point of sale. 

The shops, wineries or publisher can in no way 

be held responsible for this. 


D Extra brut grand cru 2008 : Attractive light gold. 

Extremely elegant nose where a subtle pastry tone 

rapidly flows into red fruits. Right off the bat, the palate 

is very powerful with intense aromas and sustained 

freshness. A very invigorating Champagne. 

Price: € 37.00 



+33 3 26 57 00 81 

CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE 93/100 

D Brut blanc de noirs grand cru : Brilliant yellowgold. 

The nose shows seductive intensity driven by red 

fruit tones and a novel exotic touch. The palate offers 

up great complexity with an extensive array of aromas 

which introduces spice. This is a gourmet food-style 

Champagne. 

Price: € 52.00 

http://www.champagne-dethune.com 

Champagne Paul Déthune 

+33 3 26 57 01 88 

CHAMPAGNE BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES 92/100 

D Brut Fleur Blanche 2013 : Beautiful light gold. 

Very pure nose of white fruits coupled with a floral tone 

and very elegant toast touch. Remarkable softness, 

freshness and aromatic intensity that stays sustained 

through to the finish. 

Price: € 39.00 

http://www.champagne-beaumont.com 

Champagne Beaumont des Crayères 

+33 3 26 55 29 40 

CHAMPAGNE ETIENNE OUDART 92/100 

CR D Brut Nature Cuvée Juliana 2009 : Beautiful 

light gold. Expressive yet delicate nose delivering super 

ripe fruit tones and a pastry note. Seductive throughout. 

An ample attack shows lots of lushness, expression and 

volume. This is a very complete Champagne for food. 

Price: € 64.00 

http://www.champagne-oudart.com 

Champagne Etienne Oudart 

+33 3 26 59 98 01 

CHAMPAGNE GREMILLET 92/100 

D Brut Cuvée Evidence : Beautiful pale gold. 

Expressive nose of white fruits tinged with floral touches. 

The palate beguiles with its fleshy style, its freshness, 

crispness and persistent finish. A successful Champagne 

that works best with food. 

Price: € 50.50 

http://www.champagnegremillet.fr 

Champagne Gremillet 

+33 3 25 29 37 91 

CHAMPAGNE INFINITE EIGHT 92/100 

D Brut N°8 : Beautiful vibrant, yellow-gold. Very 

elegant nose marrying white fruit notes, biscuit and 

a subtle smoky touch. The palate is silky and mouthcoating 

with freshness supporting aromas. A very 

successful Champagne for fish. 

Price: € 33.60 

Champagne Infinite Eight 

+33 6 08 61 53 41 

CHAMPAGNE J. M. GOBILLARD & FILS 92/100 

D Brut blanc de noirs : Beautiful yellow-gold. Highly 

expressive fruity nose in a very clean style. Beautifully 

balanced freshness, vinosity and aromatic intensity 

on the palate. The finish is long, moreish and very 

energetic. 

Price: € 20.20 

http://www.champagne-gobillard.com 

Champagne J. M. Gobillard & fils 

+33 3 26 51 00 24 

CHAMPAGNE DE BARFONTARC 

92/100 

■ Brut Un Voyage dans nos Coteaux 2015 

CR D Beautiful yellow-gold with amber tints. Delicate 

nose offering up accents of white fruits with a faint 

jammy touch of raspberry and blueberry. The palate is 

very vinous and full-bodied with more of the same very 

noble aromas. Pair with caviar. Price: € 54.90 

PRESENTATION : In 1962, a handful of winegrowers 

established this House in Baroville and created 

Champagne De Barfontarc. Located in the North-East 

of the Côte des Bar, near Bar-sur-Aube, its vineyards 

encompass nearly 130 hectares on clay-limestone 

soils. The varietal range is typical of the region with 

90% Pinot noir and 10% Chardonnay. Over the 

hillsides of Baroville, Fontaine, Arconville and 

Dolancourt, each winegrower pampers their vines to 

produce the finest possible quality, using 

environmentally sensitive, sustainable vineyard 

techniques. The company’s cellar master and 

winemakers then play their part in their state-of-the-art 

facilities, crafting Champagnes that aim to honour the 

character and style of the House. 

Tel.: +33 3 25 27 07 09 

E-mail: champagne@barfontarc.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-barfontarc.com 

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en page 1 04/12/2021 10:50 Page 3 

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES ELLNER 

92/100 

■ Brut Séduction 2007 

D Beautiful brilliant yellow-gold. Delicate nose marrying 

ripe fruits with a toast tone, sweet spices and tobacco. 

The palate is beautifully textured and very expressive with 

richness and freshness supporting throughout. This is a 

food-friendly Champagne. Price: € 30 

PRESENTATION : Founded by Charles-Emile Ellner in 

1905, this house is still family-run. It farms a sizeable 

50-hectare vineyard spread over 15 localities, giving it 

significant independence in terms of supplies. Pierre 

Ellner continued to build on his father’s legacy, 

establishing the quality to which Champagne Charles 

Ellner owes its excellent image. Pierre’s four sons – 

Jacques, Michel, Jean-Pierre and Philippe – subsequently 

took over yet continued to uphold the founders’ spirit. 

Jean-Pierre and his wife now manage the company, with 

the help of the fourth generation. Emmanuelle and 

Alexandra are tasked with marketing, communications 

and administration, whilst Frédéric and Arnaud are in 

charge of the vineyards and work in the winery. 

Together, and with the same motivation, they have 

introduced the changes required for the family-owned 

company to meet the needs of today’s markets, 

modernising the production facilities in Epernay whilst 

safeguarding the family’s traditions and spirit. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 55 60 25 

E-mail: info@champagne-ellner.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-ellner.com 

CHAMPAGNE J. M. GOBILLARD 

& FILS 

92/100 

■ Brut Privilège des Moines - Élevé en Fût de 

Chêne 

CR D Light gold. Delicate nose of fresh oak and 

sweet spices. The attack on the palate is chiselled and 

perfumed and showcases pleasantly mature aromatics 

with a welcome saline touch on the finish. This is a 

Champagne for gourmet foods. Price: € 25 

PRESENTATION: In the heart of Champagne, 5 

kilometres from Epernay, the village of Hautvillers overlooks 

vineyards. It is home to the abbey where, in around 

1681, Dom Pérignon created the first Champagne 

bubbles. This incredible figure made it the most famous 

village in the entire region. Boasting 30 hectares of 

owned vineyards complemented by an extra 125 

supplied by grape purchase contracts with vine growers 

selected for their expertise, Champagne J.M. Gobillard & 

Fils produces 1.5 million bottles annually, 50% of them 

exported. This thriving family-run company expertly 

combines passion, entrepreneurship and proficiency, from 

work in the vineyard through to marketing. In 2021, the 

house was awarded HVE level 3 certification (High 

Environmental Value) for all of its vineyards. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 51 00 24 

E-mail: ccontact@champagne-gobillard.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-gobillard.com 

CHAMPAGNE JEAN VESSELLE 92/100 

CONV D Brut Nature L’Expression Nature : Yellowgold. 

Delicate nose showing accents of red berry 

fruits that become more intense. The palate is vinous 

and intense and mimics the same heady aromatics 

of ripe raspberry. A very accomplished, food-friendly 

Champagne. 

Price: € 24.00 

http://www.champagnejeanvesselle.fr 

Champagne Jean Vesselle 

+33 3 26 57 01 55 

CHAMPAGNE JEEPER 92/100 

D Brut blanc de blancs Grande Réserve : Beautiful 

light gold. The nose is delicate with white fruit tones 

and a subtle toast touch. The palate is very soft with 

melt-in-the-mouth effervescence and persistent, chiselled 

aromas. A very elaborate Champagne for the most 

delicately flavoured foods. 

Price: € 45.00 

http://www.champagne-jeeper.fr 

Champagne Jeeper 

+33 3 26 05 08 98 

CHAMPAGNE MARCELLIN BEAUFORT 92/100 

CR D Extra brut grand cru : Beautiful, high-shine 

yellow-gold. Mature nose of dried herbs and dried straw 

with a subtle pastry touch. The palate is seductively silky 

with strict aromatics and unwavering tension punctuated 

by a persistent finish. Pairs with sweetbreads. 

Price: € 26.55 

La Commanderie Diffusion 

+33 6 07 10 91 18 


D Extra brut grand cru Cuvée Réservée : Beautiful 

golden hue. Very typical, expressive nose marrying 

red fruits and biscuit notes. The palate delivers a 

very successful combination of vinosity, freshness and 

aromatic expression. A versatile Champagne that is 

equally suitable as an appetiser or with food. 



+33 3 26 57 00 81 

CHAMPAGNE ODIL MORET 92/100 

CR D Brut Cuvée Désiré 2014 : Beautiful clear, 

light gold. Clean, precise nose with berry stone fruit 

tones. The palate is vinous on the attack then fresh 

and expressive, with the finish adding some delicate 

sweet spice tones. An extremely racy, food-friendly 

Champagne. 

Price: € 24.00 

Champagne Odil Moret 

+33 3 26 52 81 65 

CHAMPAGNE POINTILLART LEROY 92/100 

CR D Brut 1er cru Corps et Esprit : Beautiful, 

brilliant light gold. The nose gradually opens up to 

mineral, saline and fruity tones. The palate displays real 

character. It is dynamic, fresh and very fruity with a 

more mineral, terroir-centric finish. 

Price: € 25.50 

Champagne Pointillart-Leroy 

+33 3 26 49 77 24 

CHAMPAGNE PRESTIGE DES SACRES 92/100 

CR D Extra brut 30 & 3 : Beautiful bright golden 

hue. Gorgeous, intense nose marrying white fruit tones 

with toast and pastry touches. This slightly exuberant 

character carries through to the palate. A rich, 

consummate Champagne pairing with shellfish. 

Price: € 35.40 

http://www.champagne-prestigedessacres.com 

Champagne Prestige des Sacres 

+33 3 26 03 63 40 

128 



CHAMPAGNE RÉMI HENRY 92/100 

CR D Brut Nature Grand Cru Age d’Or-Magnum 

1995 : Beautiful light gold. Mature nose of jammy fruits 

and ripe fig with a touch of almond paste. The palate 

shows more of the same with very complex aromatics 

coupled with lots of freshness. Long finish suffused with 

citrus fruits, sweet spices and lime. 

Price: € 280.00 

Champagne Rémi Henry 

+33 3 26 57 82 13 

CHAMPAGNE A. VIOT & FILS 91/100 

CR D Brut blanc de blancs Cuvée du Centenaire 

2014 : Beautiful, brilliant light gold. Delicate nose of 

white fruits coupled with a toast tone bordering on 

pastry. Wonderful ripe, fruit-forward attack flowing into 

great tension and an ample, saline finish. Pairs with 

grilled shellfish. 

Price: € 42.00 

Champagne A. Viot & Fils 

+33 3 25 27 02 07 

CHAMPAGNE ANTHONY BETOUZET 91/100 

CONV D Brut Instinct 2013 : Beautiful brilliant light 

gold. Very expressive nose marrying red fruit and wafer 

tones. The palate is fruity, focused and very generous 

with delightful red berry fruit overtones. A pure, festive 

Champagne. 

Price: € 27.90 

Champagne Anthony Betouzet 

+33 7 82 39 69 19 

CHAMPAGNE BÉATRIX DE GIMBRES 91/100 

CR D Brut 1er cru Terroir : Brilliant golden hue. 

Pleasant nose of ripe fruits coupled with a fairly heady 

touch. Remarkably delicate texture on the palate, silky 

and expressive with a very distinctive saline finish. 

Genuinely fulfilling. 

Price: € 25.00 

Champagne Béatrix de Gimbres 

+33 3 26 02 97 67 

CHAMPAGNE BEAUMONT DES CRAYÈRES 91/100 

D Brut Fleur de Prestige - Coeur de cuvée 2012 

: Beautiful brilliant yellow-gold. Ripe fruit on the nose 

marrying white fruits and a toast tone. Invigorating, 

perfumed palate that also shows lovely persistency. A 

generous Champagne in a food-friendly style. 

Price: € 37.30 

http://www.champagne-beaumont.com 

Champagne Beaumont des Crayères 

+33 3 26 55 29 40 

CHAMPAGNE COLLET 91/100 

D Brut rosé : Lovely brilliant orangy hue. Nose of 

red fruits, biscuit and ripe orange tones. The palate 

reveals a velvety rosé with mature aromas that beguiles 

with its balance and persistent fruitiness. A top-flight 

rosé Champagne. 

Price: € 36.00 

http://www.champagne-collet.com 

Champagne Collet 

+33 3 26 55 15 88 

CHAMPAGNE DENIS BOVIÈRE 91/100 

CR D Brut blanc de noirs grand cru : Bright strawgold. 

A mix of pastry notes, white fruits, dried fruits and 

wild strawberries on the nose. Elegant vinosity, tangy 

freshness and clean aromatic expression make the 

palate very comforting. Pairs with top quality fish. 

Price: € 19.50 

Champagne Denis Bovière 

+33 3 26 49 43 40 

CHAMPAGNE DEVAUX 91/100 

D Brut Cuvée D : Pale yellow. Intense fruity nose 

with a red berry fruit slant. Beautiful, very velvety attack 

on the palate, very mouth-filling mid-palate with a fresh, 

silky feel. A very pure Champagne for a festive aperitif. 

Price: € 40.00 

http://www.champagne-devaux.fr 

Champagne Devaux 

+33 3 25 38 30 65 

CHAMPAGNE G. BOUTILLEZ-VIGNON 91/100 

CR D Brut 1er cru Cuvée Prestige : Glistening 

yellow-gold. Expressive, rich nose marrying white fruits 

with a more pastry-like tone. The palate is generous, 

very expressive and silky with a moreish saline finish. 

More of a food-friendly Champagne. 

Price: € 18.60 

Champagne G. Boutillez-Vignon 

+33 3 26 97 95 87 

CHAMPAGNE GREMILLET 91/100 

D Extra Brut Rosé Vrai : Deeply coloured, brilliant 

light red. Red berry fruits on the nose gradually 

delivering quite ripe aromatics. Beautiful quality fruit on 

the palate is showcased by creamy effervescence in this 

very successful rosé Champagne. 

Price: € 43.50 

http://www.champagnegremillet.fr 

Champagne Gremillet 

+33 3 25 29 37 91 

CHAMPAGNE HAUTBOIS 91/100 

CR D Extra brut Haut’bsession 2012 : Appealing, 

brilliant light gold. Intense nose of red berry fruits 

coupled with a mature tone bordering on pastry. The 

palate is fleshy and framed by creamy effervescence. 

A Champagne that is rich yet fresh and shows good 

length. 

Price: € 65.00 

http://www.champagne-hautbois.com 

Champagne Jean-Pol Hautbois 

+33 3 26 48 20 98 

CHAMPAGNE J. M. GOBILLARD & FILS 91/100 

CR D Brut blanc de blancs Chardonnay : Glistening 

yellow-gold. Expressive nose with precise fruit tones, 

notes of ripe apple and pear, white peach and a fine 

biscuit touch. Truly satisfying palate with tension that 

enhances the same subtle perfumes. 

Price: € 20.20 

http://www.champagne-gobillard.com 

Champagne J. M. Gobillard & fils 

+33 3 26 51 00 24 

Very picturesque views out over the vineyards in the village of Hautvillers, near Epernay 



CHAMPAGNE JEEPER 91/100 

D Brut Grand rosé : Very pale orangy hue. Highly 

expressive fruity nose offering up a fusion of apple, 

pear and citrus fruits. The palate displays heady, tangy 

fruit aromatics that are fairly powerful and taut. A very 

distinctive rosé Champagne. 

Price: € 50.00 

http://www.champagne-jeeper.fr 

Champagne Jeeper 

+33 3 26 05 08 98 

CHAMPAGNE LE GOUIVE PÈRE ET FILS 91/100 

D Extra brut Les Houies : Pale gold. Delicate nose 

offering up white fruit and biscuit tones. Saline, smooth, 

expressive palate delivering freshness yet also richness 

and a very creamy feel. Would pair with grilled 

shellfish. 

Price: € 28.50 

Champagne Le Gouive 

+33 3 26 59 75 69 

CHAMPAGNE MANDOIS 91/100 

CONV D Brut blanc de blancs 1er cru 2016 

: Beautiful clear, light gold. Very endearing nose 

of white fruits flowing into a subtle pastry tone. The 

palate immediately beguiles with its freshness and silky 

effervescence. The finish is convivial, persistent and 

very intense. 

Price: € 31.00 

http://www.champagne-mandois.fr 

Champagne Mandois 

+33 3 26 54 03 18 

CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD & FILS 91/100 

D Extra brut rosé grand cru La Saignée 2016 : 

Brilliant deep pink. Suggestions of super ripe cherry 

and raspberry on the nose. The palate shows a novel 

personality with very pure red fruit. A fleshy style with 

lovely aromatic persistency. A gourmet-food-friendly 

rosé Champagne worth trying with game. 

Price: € 36.00 

http://www.champagne-michel-arnould.com 

Champagne Michel Arnould & Fils 

+33 3 26 49 40 06 

CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE 91/100 

D Extra brut grand cru : Clear light gold. The nose 

is intense and precise with a successful combination 

of red berry fruits and biscuit. The palate is generously 

styled, very aromatic and displays elegance, intensity 

and good length. 

Price: € 32.00 

http://www.champagne-dethune.com 

Champagne Paul Déthune 

+33 3 26 57 01 88 

CHAMPAGNE POINSOT FRÈRES 91/100 

CR D Brut - Grand Héritage - Vieilles Vignes : 

Beautiful light gold. Compelling nose marrying white 

fruits and a crisp pastry tone. Very full at point of entry 

with very pleasant aromatic intensity. This is a highly 

accomplished food-friendly Champagne. 

Price: € 23.00 

Champagne Poinsot Frères 

+33 3 25 29 66 18 

CHAMPAGNE SCHREIBER 91/100 

ORG D Brut Grande Cuvée : Beautiful brilliant 

yellow-gold. Nose of ripe red fruits coupled with a 

pastry tone. The palate is in the same vein with a fleshy 

edge and lots of freshness enhancing aroma through to 

the finish. A very distinctively styled wine. 

Price: € 45.00 

Champagne Schreiber 

+33 3 25 38 22 95 

CHAMPAGNE VIGNON PÈRE & FILS 91/100 

D Extra brut grand cru L’Aura 2012 : Beautiful pale 

gold. Elegant nose, fairly subtle even with floral and 

sweet spice tones. The palate is very ample, full-bodied 

and generous. This is a beautiful gastronomy-style 

Champagne that would work with, say, shellfish. 

https://www.champagne-vignon.com/fr/ 

Champagne Vignon Père & Fils 

+33 3 26 49 80 39 

CHAMPAGNE ALBIN MARTINOT 90/100 

HVE D Brut Clin d’Oeil Finesse : Beautiful light 

gold. Delicate, refined nose accented by red berry fruits 

with toast-like undertones. The palate is very elegant 

and controlled with chiselled aromas. A Champagne 

showing great complexity. 

Price: € 24.50 

http://www.champagne-albin-martinot.fr 

Champagne Albin Martinot 

+33 3 25 29 83 49 

CHAMPAGNE ANTHONY & CLÉMENCE TOULLEC 90/100 

HVE D Extra brut 1er cru blanc de blancs : Bright, 

light gold. Pleasant nose of white fruits coupled with a 

subtle toast tone. The palate is very soft, light and fresh. 

This is a very palatable Champagne that works equally 

well as an aperitif or with food. 

Price: € 31.00 

Champagne A&C Toullec 

+33 6 77 11 02 67 

CHAMPAGNE CANARD-DUCHÊNE 90/100 

ORG D Extra brut P. 181 : Beautiful yellow-gold. 

Very pure nose accented by candied fruits entwined 

with a toast tone. The palate shows great character 

and features the same subtle, persistent aromas. A 

Champagne offering delicate expression. 

Price: € 27.50 

http://www.canard-duchene.fr 

Champagne Canard-Duchêne 

+33 3 26 61 11 60 

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES COQUET 90/100 

D Brut grand cru Dandy : Beautiful brilliant golden 

hue. Intense, compelling nose marrying red berry fruits 

with a biscuit tone. The palate is savoury with very 

mature, intense, persistent aromas that linger on and 

on. A gourmet-food-friendly Champagne. 

Price: € 39.00 

Champagne Charles Coquet 

+33 3 26 57 07 87 

Harvesting in Verzenay, a 100% Grand Cru classified village in the Montagne de Reims 

130 



Dom Caudron’s impressive winery in Passy-Grigny, Marne 

CHAMPAGNE COMTESSE LA FÉE 90/100 

D Brut 2009 : Bright yellow-gold. Subtle nose 

opening up after airing to lemony and faintly toasted 

tones. The palate is tense, fresh and young and shows 

character and good balance. A full-bodied, foodfriendly 

Champagne for red mullet. 

Price: € 27.90 

Stella 51000 

+33 6 44 74 11 18 

CHAMPAGNE DE BARFONTARC 90/100 

CR D Brut La Vigne au Roy 2013 : Beautiful light 

gold. Open nose of dried fruits with an elegant pastry 

tone. The palate is accomplished and rich with aromas 

that are mature but boast lovely freshness. A foodfriendly 

Champagne working with, say, sweetbreads. 

Price: € 26.90 

http://www.champagne-barfontarc.com 

Champagne de Barfontarc 

+33 3 25 27 07 09 

CHAMPAGNE ELEXIUM TROUILLARD 90/100 

D Brut rosé Brillant : Light orangy hue. Very 

endearing nose of ripe red fruits with blood orange. 

The palate is extremely fruity and gratifying with a 

fresh, velvety feel. This is a tense and very expressive 

Champagne with real appeal. 

Price: € 21.60 

http://www.champagne-trouillard.fr 

Champagne Trouillard 

+33 3 26 55 37 55 

CHAMPAGNE FAŸ-BERJOT 90/100 

D Brut Cuvée Félicien : Beautiful light gold. Very 

indulgent nose marrying white fruits and a fresh hazelnut 

note. The palate is pleasantly fleshy with the same crisp 

aromas flowing through. An intense, ripe, slightly exotic 

and very unusual style. 

Price: € 14.50 

Champagne Faÿ Berjot 

+33 3 23 70 21 53 

CHAMPAGNE FENEUIL COPPÉE 90/100 

CR D Brut 1er cru Sélection : Beautiful brilliant light 

gold. Pleasant nose marrying fresh hazelnut and white 

fruits with a creamy tone. The palate is fresh, fleshy 

and very expressive with a clean array of aromas 

punctuated by a saline touch on the finish. 

Price: € 17.40 

http://www.champagne-feneuilcoppee.com 

Champagne Feneuil Coppée 

+33 3 26 97 66 72 

CHAMPAGNE GERMAR BRETON 90/100 

CR D Extra brut 2014 : Beautiful pale gold. Delicate 

nose accented by flowers entwined with a toast tone. 

The palate is very appealing, tense and aromatic. It is 

beautifully textured with aromas released on the finish. 

A Champagne now fully at its peak. 

Champagne Germar Breton 

+33 3 25 27 73 03 

CHAMPAGNE JEAUNAUX-ROBIN 90/100 

CONV D Brut Nature Eclats de Meulière : Beautiful 

light gold. Pleasant nose midway between mineral, 

smoky and fruity notes. The palate is nicely textured, 

very silky and delicate. The aromas are clean and quite 

persistent with a very pleasant, faint saline touch on 

the finish. 

Price: € 31.00 

http://www.champagne-jr.fr 

Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin 

+33 3 26 52 80 73 

CHAMPAGNE LUCIEN ROGUET 90/100 

D Brut grand cru N° 1 Tradition : Beautiful yellowgold. 

Very fruity, very pure nose accented by apple, 

pear and fresh grape. The palate is very harmonious, 

dense and soft with seductive fruit characters. Beautiful 

lingering, crisp finish with delicate saline flavours. 

http://www.champagne-lucien-roguet-grandcru.com 

Champagne Lucien Roguet 

+33 3 26 49 41 36 

CHAMPAGNE MANDOIS 90/100 

CONV D Brut blanc de noirs 2015 : Beautiful light 

gold. The nose offers up subtle red berry fruit aromas of 

raspberry. The palate combines vinosity, silkiness and 

chiselled fruit expression with a fresh finish. Beautiful. 

Price: € 31.00 

http://www.champagne-mandois.fr 

Champagne Mandois 

+33 3 26 54 03 18 


— CHAMPAGNE - CAVA - PROSECCO ROSÉ - SPARKLIN 


BS_CUVEES_G&G_N°46_Mise en page 1 04/12/2021 10:50 Page 4 


Our Winter 2021 selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is feat 

we have chosen to present wines by region (CHAMPAGNE, PROSECCO 

with each company or chateau listed in alphabetical order, and finally b 

CHAMPAGNE MATHIEU-GANDON 90/100 scallops for full enjoyment. 

CR D Brut Saveur : Appealing brilliant light gold. 

Delicate nose accented by ripe red berry fruits. The 

palate is seductively vinous with weight and aromatic 

Price: € 21.00 

Champagne Rousseaux Daye 

+33 3 26 49 43 66 

intensity. This is a Champagne with all the requisite 

CHAMPAGNE SORET-DEVAUX 90/100 

attributes for pairing with food. 

D Brut Tradition : Brilliant light gold. The nose is 

Price: € 27.00 

expressive, chiselled and marries white fruit and dried 

Champagne Mathieu-Gandon 

fruit aromas. The palate is fleshy, vinous and perfumed. 

+33 3 26 51 96 18 

It gains in intensity through to the finish which shows 

CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD ET FILS 90/100 remarkable THE persistency. TASTING PANEL 

D Brut grand cru Carte d’Or 2015 : Beautiful light 

gold. Very clean, pleasant fruity nose with more of a 

Price: € 19.90 

https://champagnesoretdevaux.pagesperso-orange.fr/ 

accueil.html 

white fruit focus. The palate is fresh, fleshy and fruity. 

Champagne Soret-Devaux 

This is a lively Champagne that would make the perfect FRANCE 

+33 3 25 27 12 55 

partner for appetisers or a buffet. 

FRANCE 

Price: € 26.60 

CHAMPAGNE TAISNE RIOCOUR 90/100 

http://www.champagne-michel-arnould.com 

Champagne Michel Arnould & Fils 

+33 3 26 49 40 06 

D Brut 2014 : Brilliant light gold. Nose of red berry 

fruits mainly focusing on ripe raspberry. The palate is 

very clean with a forthright attack and focused, ripe 

CHAMPAGNE Philippe PATRICE Gaillard 

aromatics. The finish is persistent with the very clean fruit 

GUAY 90/100 

notes flowing through. 

D Extra brut Mont Aulin 2016 : Yellow-gold. 

Olivier Delorme 

James Turn 

Mature nose of dried herbs, mineral tones and a Champagne Taisne Riocour 

touch of biscuit. The palate is dense and driven by +33 3 25 29 64 37 

lovely freshness delivering more of the same distinctive 

aromas. A powerful, food-friendly Champagne. SOUTH CHAMPAGNE AFRICA TROUILLARD 90/100SOUTH AFR 

Price: € 43.00 

Champagne Patrice Guay 

+33 3 26 57 67 66 

CR D Brut Chardonnay : Beautiful brilliant yellowgold. 

Distinctive, delicate nose of white flowers and 

hazelnut. The palate shows real typicity, freshness 

and silkiness. This is a versatile Champagne, equally 

CHAMPAGNE ROUSSEAUX DAYE 90/100 suitable as an aperitif, with a buffet or with fish. 

D Brut blanc de blancs grand cru RD 3 : Beautiful Price: € 21.40 

light gold. Nose of citrus fruits and ripe lemon. A very http://www.champagne-trouillard.fr 

clean style on the palate supported by freshness and Matthieu Champagne GaillardTrouillard 

François Bezuid 

developing quite elegant lemony aromatics. Pair with +33 3 26 55 37 55 

FRANCE 


CHAMPAGNE DOM CAUDRON 

90/100 

■ Extra brut Sublimité MPC 

D Light gold. Very well-balanced, ripe fruity nose with 

subtle floral and herbal tones. The palate is very silky, 

soft and expressive with mature aromatics energised 

by toast tones and faint sourness on the finish. 

Price: € 80 

PRESENTATION : Champagne Dom Caudron was 

founded in 1929. With complete control over production, 

from the vineyard to the wine glass, it now boasts 90 

winegrowers who produce terroir-driven Champagne 

crafted from 130 hectares under vine located across the 

hillsides of the Marne Valley around Passy-Grigny. Pinot 

Meunier is the iconic grape variety in this western part of 

Champagne and accounts for 80% of acreage. The 

vineyard sites of Passy-Grigny, which are perfectly suited to 

this varietal, naturally favoured the production of Blanc de 

Noirs, allowing Pinot Meunier to fully reveal its roundness 

and intense fruitiness, creating the perfect match for the Dom 

Caudron style. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 52 45 17 

E-mail: champagne@domcaudron.fr 

Website: http://www.domcaudron.fr 

Wine scores 

Our tasting notes are scored on a 100 point scale, which gives 

enough range to evaluate every characteristic that we taste in a 

wine. Below are the different levels that make up this scoring: 

95-100/100: an outstanding wine, when a great “terroir” meets 

exceptional winemaking expertise. 

90-94/100: a superlative wine combining finesse, complexity and 

remarkable winemaking. 

85-89100: a wine of extremely high standard, which we enjoyed for its 

typicity and character. 

80-84/100: a quality wine combining balance, structure and neatness for 

a pleasurable wine drinking experience. 

75-79/100: a wine deemed acceptable. 

70-74/100: a wine with defects, unacceptable. 

65-69/100: a wine with major defects, inadmissible. 

50-64/100: unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale. 

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in our publications. 

■ R 

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132 

WINTER 2021– GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

WINTER 2021 -

SPAIN - Catalonia 

SPAIN 

OUR WINTER 

SELECTION 

An exceptional line-up of Spanish 

sparkling wines that can compete with 

the best, both for their quality and their 

very affordable price tags! 

CATALONIA 

CAVA D.O. 

ALTA ALELLA 91/100 

ORG D Brut nature - Mirgin Opus - Paratge 

Calificado Vallcirera 2016 : Vibrant pale gold. Racy 

nose marrying white-fleshed fruits and subtle toast and 

milky notes. Silky attack then an ample, plump and 

lively palate showing lovely intensity with citrus and 

spice touches and subtle chalky undertones. A beautiful, 

genuine wine. 

Price: € 16.90 

http://www.altaalella.wine 

Alta Alella 

+34 934 693 720 

ALTA ALELLA 90/100 

ORG D Brut nature Gran Reserva Laieta 2017 : 

Brilliant pale gold. Expressive nose combining citrus, 

cooked apple and fern. Fresh, balanced palate flowing 

through from the nose. Streamlined style with striking 

aromas and well-integrated effervescence. A nicely 

crafted Cava. 

Price: € 9.50 

http://www.altaalella.wine 

Alta Alella 

+34 934 693 720 

LAR DE PLATA 90/100 

D Brut Nature : Yellow-gold with brilliant highlights. 

Nose of white fruits and small flowers with menthol 

touches. This is a beautifully crafted, clean, vinous 

Cava with gorgeous flavours showing throughout the 

lengthy finish. Serve with an entire summer’s meal. 

Big Food & Beverage 

+34 649648931 


D Brut : Bright yellow-gold. The nose shows a young, 

fresh style with pastry notes of butter and brioche, along 

with ripe white fruits. A stellar Cava that will appeal to 

even the most demanding palates. Lots of tension and 

substantial minerality on the finish. 


+34 649 648 931 

CODORNIU 90/100 

D Brut Gran Reserva Ars Collecta Grand Rosé 2015 

: Appealing salmon-pink. Stellar quality fruit on the nose 

with a ripe strawberry tone coupled with a slightly more 

bitter touch recalling almonds. The palate is fairly lively 

yet balanced and fleshy. Aroma is nicely enhanced by 

freshness. 

Price: € 17.00 

http://www.grupocodorniu.com 

Raventos Codorniu 

+34 935 051 551 

PROYECTO CU4TRO 90/100 

D Brut Nature Premium Reserva 2016 : Light yellow 

with brilliant highlights. Ripe nose accented by stewed 

white fruits with a resin-like touch. Elegant, mature 

palate that is fleshy, fruity and fresh with mouth-coating 

maturity. A full-bodied, food-friendly dry sparkling wine 

for goat’s cheese and honey. 

Price: € 11.72 

http://www.closmontblanc.com/ 

Bodegas Concavins 

+34 977 887 030 

RAMON CANALS 90/100 

ORG D Reserva Organic Rosé 2018 : Brilliant light 

salmon. Subtle nose marrying morello cherry and red 

fruits. Focused, fresh, light palate where citrus fruits 

cosy up to red fruits. Striking aromas supported by 

bold exuberance. A harmonious, delicate wine offering 

undeniable pleasure. 

Price: € 10.00 

https://www.ramoncanals.com/en/ 

Ramon Canals Canals, S.A. 

+34 937 755 446 

CASTELL SANT ANTONI 89/100 

D Brut Nature Rosé Gran Rosat 2012 : Beautiful 

hue recalling fading heirloom roses with very fine 

bubbles. Promising nose of red fruits coupled with 

superb empyreumatic notes. Delicious palate redolent 

of redcurrant jam with brioche notes. Excellent sourness 

on the finish. 

Price: € 16.95 

https://castellsantantoni.com/ 

Castell Sant Antoni 

+34 93 818 3099 

ROVELLATS 89/100 

D Brut rosé Imperial Reserva 2017 : Intense pink 

with salmon highlights. Pleasant nose melding cherry, 

red fruits, spicy and floral touches. Harmonious, ample, 

refreshing palate with pure, intense aromas. Everything 

is in place. Sense of fulfilment. Serve with cold meats. 

Price: € 12.70 

http://www.cavasrovellats.com 

Rovellats 

+34 934 880 575 

No, this is not Champagne but the cellars of a winery producing Cava! 


D : Shimmering salmon-pink with pale blush 

highlights. Very refined nose of raspberries and 

redcurrants. Clean, free-flowing attack. This is a freshlystyled, 

crisp wine with great grip on the palate. Serve 

as an aperitif or with fruit desserts. 


+34 649 648 931 


D Brut Bubbles 2019 : Pale gold with silvery 

highlights. The nose is driven by citrus, white fruits, 

raisins and a floral touch. Thirst-quenching palate 

with simple, satisfying fruit supported by invigorating 

freshness that stays fairly elegant. Share with friends. 

Price: € 7.50 



+34 977 887 030 

GRAN SELLO 87/100 

D Brut rosé : Brilliant salmon-pink. Pleasant nose of 

redcurrant and rhubarb with a floral touch. Beautiful 

perfumed attack offering up some finely spiced notes. 

Delicious, fleshy, clean palate with abundant, wellintegrated 

effervescence. An enjoyable, beautifully 

crafted cava. 

https://www.araex.com/es/ 

Araex 

+34 945 150 589 

MONT PARAL 87/100 

ORG D Brut Vintage Rosé 2017 : Salmon-pink with 

blush highlights and fine bubbles. Nose of redcurrant 

and raspberry with sweet spice touches. The attack is 

tense, firm and crisp, it mimics the nose and is enhanced 

by a faint sourness. Enjoy with fruit-based desserts. 

Price: € 10.00 



+34 937 755 446 

WINTER 2021– GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 133

SPAIN - Valence 

MONT PARAL 87/100 

ORG D Brut Vintage - Organic Farming - Rosé 

2018 : Clear pale pink. The nose shows very distinctive 

candy and floral aromas (violet, primrose) with a red 

berry fruit note. The palate is soft, slender and refreshing 

with pared down bubbles, delicate effervescence and 

silky fruit. Bringing softness to the world of fizz. 

Price: € 13.00 



+34 937 755 446 


D Brut Bubbles Rosé 2019 : Orangy-pink. Nose 

of strawberry and raspberry coulis. Soft palate with 

delicate fruitiness revolving around a silky mouthfeel. 

The finish stays fresh and inviting. A dry rosé sparkling 

wine pairing with red fruit soup. 

Price: € 8.00 



+34 977 887 030 

CASTELL SANT ANTONI 86/100 

D Brut rosé Jazz Nature 2018 : Beautiful orangy 

pink with light blush highlights and very fine bubbles. 

Nose of red fruits with fine herbal notes. Lively and 

expressive on the attack, enhanced by mild tobacco 

touches. Freshness marks the mid-palate and finish. 

Drink as an aperitif. 

Price: € 12.95 

https://castellsantantoni.com/ 

Castell Sant Antoni 

+34 93 818 3099 

Walls of bottles of Cava spend time maturing in a cellar near Barcelona 

VILLA CONCHI 85/100 

D Brut Rosé : Fairly deep orangy-pink. The nose 

opens up after airing to red fruit in syrup notes. The 

palate is mouth-filling, indulgent and generous yet fresh 

with pleasant fruit expression. Serve preferably as a 

pudding wine with red fruit tart. 

https://www.araex.com/es/ 

Araex 

+34 945 150 589 

COSTERS DEL SEGRE D.O. 

SIÓS 90/100 

D Brut rosé 2017 : Light orangy-pink. Subtle 

grapefruit, red fruit and spring flower notes on the nose. 

Crystalline palate with very palatable vinosity. The fruit 

is satisfying though not effusive but shows real fleshy 

softness. Indulgent pleasure. 

Price: € 9.70 

http://www.costersio.com 

Costers del Sio 

+34 973 424 062 

SIÓS BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS 88/100 

D Brut Blanc de noirs Reserva 2015 : Glistening 

gold. Nose of orange blossom and white-fleshed fruits 

with pastry and hazelnut notes. Powerful, vinous palate 

with fruit aromas and a very fleshy finish. A lush, easydrinking 

wine for a generously laden table. 

Price: € 9.70 

http://www.costersio.com 

Costers del Sio 

+34 973 424 062 

VALENCE 

ALICANTE D.O. 

BODEGAS BOCOPA 88/100 

D Marina Espumante Rosado - Seleccion Monastrell 

: Deep pink with brilliant highlights and very fine 

bubbles. Nose of red berry fruits, menthol and brioche. 

Crisp attack driven by fresh fruits. Raspberry-flavoured 

boiled sweet accents drive the middle palate of this 

wine for pleasure. 

Price: € 5.48 

http://www.bocopa.com 

Bodegas Bocopa 

+34 966 950 489 


D Brut Marina Espumante 10 ° : Brilliant light yellow 

with coppery tints and very fine bubbles. The nose shows 

fresh grape entwined with brioche notes. Precise, tense 

palate developing abundant saline freshness. A thirstquenching 

wine for pleasure that makes a great aperitif. 

Price: € 5.00 



+34 966 950 489 


D Marina Espumante 7° : Superb, brilliant pale 

yellow with silvery tints and fine bubbles. Crisp fresh 

grapes coupled with menthol notes on the nose. An 

espumante with a light, free-flowing palate where 

sweetness is perfectly counterbalanced by freshness. 

Serve at the end of the meal. 

Price: € 5.48 



+34 966 950 489 

CAVA D.O. 

MURVIEDRO 86/100 

D Brut Organic Arts de Luna : Salmon-pink with 

brilliant highlights and fine bubbles. A mix of floral and 

roasted coffee notes on the nose with toast touches. 

Lively, crisp attack. The palate mirrors the nose and the 

finish is marked by faint sourness which adds freshness. 

Price: € 6.00 

http://www.murviedro.es/ 

Murviedro Bodegas 

+34 962 329 003 

UTIEL-REQUENA D.O. 

FINCA SAN BLAS 87/100 

D Brut Aguja Ancestral : Brilliant yellow-gold. The 

nose offers up a pleasant mix of citrus fruits, wild 

flowers and cut herbs. The attack is driven by very lively 

bubbles which gradually meld with fruit expression. 

Balance and presence. Ideal for an afternoon party. 

Price: € 12.00 

https://fincasanblas.com/ 

Finca San Blas 

+34 657 192 703 

VALENCIA D.O. 

PIQUITOS 86/100 

D Moscato 2019 : Pale yellow-gold with light green 

reflections and very subtle bubbles. Nose of fresh grape 

and citrus fruits. Very fruity, savoury palate framed by 

softness. Delicate effervescence adds thirst-quenching 

freshness. Drink when the summer is at its hottest. 

Price: € 7.00 

http://www.hammekencellars.com 

Hammeken Cellars 

+34 96 579 19 67 

134 

WINTER 2021 – GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

ITALY - Venetian 

ITALY 

OUR WINTER 

SELECTION 

The very young Prosecco Rosé 

appellation, whose quality has now 

been tried and tested, certainly deserved 

to be put in the spotlight. This is the 

perfect opportunity to discover the 38 

finest examples we tasted this year. 

FRIULI - VENEZIA GIULIA 

PROSECCO D.O.C. 

CANTI 91/100 

D 2019 : Beautiful pale pink. Very pure, pleasant 

nose with floral and candy tones. The palate clearly 

focuses on ripe strawberry aromas and is soft yet very 

well-balanced. Lovely focus and a very accessible 

edge. 

http://www.fratellimartini.it/ 

Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi 

+39 0141 83 7211 

LA GIOIOSA 90/100 

D Brut 2019 : Beautiful light pink. Pleasant nose 

marrying fresh grape tones and red berry fruit aromas. 

The same aromatic style carries over to the palate which 

shows seductive freshness, fruit and a faint peppery 

touch on the finish. A great wine with chiselled aromas. 

http://www.villasandi.it 

Villa Sandi 

+39 0423 665 033 

LA MARCA 90/100 

D Extra dry Rosé 2019 : Pale pink. Intense nose of 

strawberry candy. The palate is fresh and conjures up 

the same lifted aromatics. An easy-drinking, lifted style 

for the aperitif or fruit-based desserts. 

http://www.lamarca.it 

La Marca Vini E Spumanti 

+39 0422 814 681 

REGUTA 90/100 

D Extra dry 2020 : Pale salmon with orangy 

highlights. Savoury nose intermixing morello cherry, 

bread crumb and a floral touch. Consistent palate 

suffused with copious, velvety effervescence. Lovely 

lightness, delicacy and red fruit and spice notes. 

Delicious. 

Price: € 6.00 

http://www.reguta.it 

Reguta 

+39 0432 779 157 

VILLA SANDI 88/100 

D Brut Il Fresco 2019 : Pale pink. Very crisp nose 

of red berry fruits. Creamy effervescence on the palate, 

softness and red fruit candy overtones. Delightful. 


Villa Sandi 

+39 0423 665 033 

CANTINA DI BERTIOLO 86/100 

D Extra dry Cabert 2019 : Pale orangy-pink. Nose 

of red berry fruits with citrus zest and a confectionery 

note. Very supple, very soft palate with delicate, fresh, 

layered fruits. A wine for simple enjoyment pairing with 

fruit tarts. 

Price: € 9.00 

Cantina di Bertiolo 

+39 0432 917 434 

VENETIAN 

PROSECCO D.O.C. 

ABBAZIA 91/100 

D Extra dry Rosé 2020 : Pale salmon with orangy 

highlights. Charming nose marrying redcurrant, 

strawberry and floral tones. A lively attack ushers in an 

airy, well-structured palate displaying deliciously lifted 

intensity. Exudes a welcome harmonious and enjoyable 

feel throughout. 

Price: € 6.50 

http://www.abbazia.com 

Abbazia di San Gaudenzio 

+39 01 41 84 08 08 

CLAR DE LUNE 91/100 

D Brut Nature 2020 : Pale coppery pink with fine 

mousse. Promising nose revealing redcurrant, cherry 

and acacia blossom. Ethereal palate with exquisite 

perfumes. The style is pared down and very delicate 

with nothing that shouldn’t be there. Harmonious 

effervescence. Great job. 

Price: € 22.00 

http://www.pieramartellozzo.com 

Piera Martellozzo S.p.A. 

+39 0434 963 100 

Valdobbiadene, in the heart of the Prosecco appellation 

VILLA SANDI 91/100 

D Brut 2020 : Light salmon-pink with golden tints. 

A combination of stone fruits, strawberry and floral 

scents on the nose. Perfumed attack opening up to a 

harmonious, lively, light palate with fine, well-integrated 

effervescence. Persistent finish driven by red fruits. 

Delicious. 

Price: € 23.00 


Villa Sandi 

+39 0423 665 033 

ANNA SPINATO 90/100 

D Brut rosé 2020 : Salmon-pink with brilliant 

highlights and very fine bubbles. Suggestions of wild 

strawberries and raspberries on the nose with a lick 

of toasted brioche. The palate mirrors the nose and is 

well-balanced, delivering great freshness on the finish. 

Price: € 8.70 

http://www.spinato.it 

Anna Spinato Azienda Vinicola 

+39 0422 857 927 

BLU GIOVELLO 90/100 

D 2019 : Light pink with copper highlights. Pleasant 

nose marrying red fruits and morello cherry with floral 

notes and a trace of spice. Aromatic attack followed by 

a light palate displaying lovely intensity and harmonious 

effervescence. Lots of delicious flavours throughout. 

Very enjoyable. 

Price: € 15.00 

http://www.pieramartellozzo.com 

Piera Martellozzo S.p.A. 

+39 0434 963 100 

BRILLA 90/100 

D Extra Dry rosé 2020 : Beautiful pale pink. Focused 

nose of red berry fruits. The palate is light and flavourful 

with more of the same fruit aromatics and a slightly 

sweet, moreish finish. A festive, accessible rosé in a 

crowd-pleasing style. 

http://www.botter.it 

Botter Carlo & C.S.p.A. Casa Vinicola 

+39 0421 67 194 



BS_CUVEES_G&G_N°46_Mise en page 1 04/12/2021 10:50 Page 6 

LA MARCA 

90/100 

■ Extra dry Rosé 2020 

D Pale salmon-pink with very fine bubbles. Lovely 

nose revealing morello cherry, red fruits and white 

flowers. Light, smooth, ample palate enveloping its 

elegant aromas in a gorgeous touch of softness. A 

very harmonious wine for a summer aperitif. 

Price: € 10.90 

LA JARA 90/100 

ORG D Brut 2020 : Light salmon-pink with fine 

bubbles. Inviting nose marrying cherries and red berry 

fruits. Ethereal palate suffused with copious, smooth 

effervescence. Chiselled, precise fruit flavours and a 

harmonious feel in this wine for pleasure. 

Price: € 9.90 

http://www.terredeibuth.it 

Azienda Agricola La Jara 

+39 0438 488 290 

LA JARA 89/100 

ORG D Brut 2019 : Pale pink. The nose marries 

floral and boiled sweet notes. The palate is soft and 

clearly displays a fruity edge. This is an easy-drinking, 

user-friendly style that works best in cocktails or as a 

pudding wine. 

Price: € 11.90 

http://www.terredeibuth.it 

Azienda Agricola La Jara 

+39 0438 488 290 

MONTELLIANA 89/100 

D Brut Cornaro : Light pink. Delicate nose of 

strawberry candy. Fleshy, indulgent and very fruity 

palate which is quite persistent and shows a faint spice 

touch on the finish. Charming. 

Price: € 5.50 

http://www.montelliana.it/ 

Cantina Sociale Montelliana e dei Colli Asolani sca 

+39 0423 22 661 

SALATIN 89/100 

D Brut rosé 2020 : Pale pink with brilliant highlights 

and fine bubbles. Nose of red berry fruits with 

menthol touches. Pleasant, lively and refreshing attack. 

Harmonious balance and great minerality on the finish. 

A Prosecco that shows well as an aperitif. 

Price: € 7.10 

http://www.salatinvini.com/ 

Salatin SRL 

+39 0438 995 928 

SAVIAN BIOWINEMAKER 89/100 

ORG D Extra dry 2019 : Pale orange with salmon 

highlights. Focused nose recalling red berry fruits and 

pear. Invigorating attack leading into an ethereal palate 

showing seductive delicacy, generous, well-integrated 

effervescence and a lingering finish. A refined Prosecco 

for a gourmet aperitif. 

Price: € 6 

http://www.savianvini.it 

Savian Vini - Le Contrade 

+39 0422 864 068 

BOTTER SPA 88/100 

ORG D 2020 : Pale salmon-pink. Pleasurable nose 

marrying strawberry, morello cherry and floral perfumes. 

Invigorating attack leading into a well-balanced palate 

offering a delicate rendition of the nose aromas in an 

ethereal style that would be best enjoyed on casual 

occasions. 

http://www.botter.it 

Botter Carlo & C.S.p.A. Casa Vinicola 

+39 0421 67 194 

IL PONTE 88/100 

D Brut rosé 2019 : Pale pink. Delicate, pleasant 

nose suggestive of ripe strawberry. More of the same 

compelling, festive aromas on the palate. This is a 

tense rosé offering up seductive freshness and focused 

aromatics which works as an aperitif. 

Price: € 10 

http://www.viticoltoriponte.it 

Viticoltori Ponte 

+39 0422 85 82 11 


D Brut Meliora : Light orangy-pink. Nose of red fruit 

candy, watermelon and peach. Supple palate with 

harmoniously layered although slightly rectilinear fruit. 

Delicate bubbles and overall freshness. A simple Brut 

rosé for savouring like you would candy. 



+39 0423 22 661 

PRESENTATION : Founded in 1968, La Marca is a 

second-level cooperative, which represents about 

5000 winegrowers who tend around 15,000 

hectares of vineyards, owing to the Group’s 8 

wineries all located in the province of Treviso. 

Knowledge handed down the years, experience and 

professionalism, competence in the field and 

commercial strategies are requisites that makes La 

Marca a reference point and one of the most 

representatives companies in the Prosecco’s field. 

Territoriality, cooperation and sustainability are the main 

values of the company’s philosophy, which includes 

several meanings: environmental, economic, social 

and ethic. 

Tel.: +39 0422 814 681 

E-mail: lamarca@lamarca.it 

Website:http://www.lamarca.it 

The Glera grape variety, specific to Prosecco, lends it its unique characters 

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SOLIGO 88/100 VAL D’OCA 87/100 

D Brut rosé 2019 : Brilliant salmon-pink. Focused D Extra Dry 2019 : Pale pink. Very pleasant nose of 

nose combining apple, strawberry and hawthorn. 

TOP WINES ripe strawberry coupled with a peppermint tone. Fleshy 

Supple entry then a light, energetic palate. The 

structure and beautiful ripe fruit flavours on the palate 

aromatic spectrum stays slightly backward but the style 

with a more saline touch on the finish adding character. 

is elegant and harmonious. Exactly what is needed for 

http://www.valdoca.com 

family reunions. 

Val d’Oca 

http://www.collisoligo.com 

Cantina Colli Del Soligo Societa Agricola Cooperativa +39 0423 982 070 

+39 043 884 00 OUR 92 SELECTION 

ZARDETTO 87/100 

AMPAGNE VOGA - CAVA - PROSECCO ROSÉ 88/100 - SPARKLING D Extra WINES dry rosé : Pale - HUNGARY salmon-pink. Nose — of candy, 

D Extra Dry 2019 : Pale pink. Suggestions of 

confectionery, sugared almonds, red fruit and tangerine 

red berry fruits, a rose petal note and watermelon. The 

palate echoes the delicious nose aromatics with very 

notes on the nose. Charming, fleshy palate displaying vibrant fruit, freshness and crispness. A fruit-laden wine 

great fruit-driven length. Tangy, moreish finish with 

for sharing. 

delicate bubbles. A festive wine that works well for any 

Price: € 12.95 

occasion. 

http://www.zardettoprosecco.com 

Price: € 10.00 

Zardetto Spumanti 

http://www.enoitalia.it 

Enoitalia - Gruppo Pizzolo 

+39 0438 394 969 


1 selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is featured on pages 126 to 138. As usual, 

n to present wines by region (CHAMPAGNE, PROSECCO..), then by appellation in each region, 

pany or chateau listed in alphabetical order, and finally by tasting scores in descending order. 

aillard 

+39 0458 876 200 

Pages 126 to 138 

MASOTTINA 87/100 

D 2019 : Pale pink. Nose of rose petal and red 

berry fruits. Very soft, supple palate with compelling, 

THE TASTING PANEL 

candy-dominant flavours. A youthful style well-suited to 

casual occasions for sharing with others. 

http://www.masottina.it 

Masottina FRANCE 

+39 0438 400 775 

MONTELVINI 87/100 

D 2019 : Pale pink. Nose of red berry fruits recalling 

Schenk Italia 

strawberry. Matthieu The Gaillard palate is pleasant with freshness François Bezuidenhout 

+39 0471 803 311 

supporting the fruit and a finish that is not undermined 

by sweetness. A harmonious and refreshing wine. 

Price: € 5.90 

http://www.montelvini.it 

Wine scores 

tes are scored Montelvini 

a 100 point scale, which gives ■ RED WINE 

to evaluate +39 0423 every 8777 characteristic that we taste in a 

■ DRY WHITE WINE 

re the different SERENA levels WINES that 1881 make up this scoring: 87/100 

■ SWEET WHITE WINE 

D Extra dry Costaross 2020 : Light salmon hue. The 

an outstanding nose shows wine, a pleasant when mix a of great blood “terroir” citrus fruits meets and red 

ORG: Organic Wine. 

emaking expertise. berry fruits. The palate is supple and refreshing with no 

great aromatic complexity. A satisfying, easy-drinking 

superlative Prosecco, wine combining made a crowd-pleasing finesse, complexity style. and 

emaking. Price: € 11.90 

http://www.vinicolaserena.com 

ine of extremely Serena Wines high standard, 1881 which we enjoyed for its 

racter. +39 0438 201 187 

uality wine SERENA combining WINES balance, 1881 structure and neatness 87/100 for 

D Brut rosé 2020 : Light salmon hue. Nose of red 

ine drinking 

forest 

experience. 

fruits and juicy citrus fruits. Fairly rounded, fleshy 

ine deemed palate acceptable. which is clean and supported by ripe fruit. The 

finish displays the same character. This is a serious wine 

ine with defects, unacceptable. 

that works well as an aperitif or with a variety of hors 

ine with major d’oeuvres. defects, inadmissible. 

cceptable Price: wine, € 13.90 not worthy for sale. 

http://www.vinicolaserena.com 

ss than 75/100 are Serena not included Wines in 1881 our publications. 

+39 0438 201 187 

ANNA SPINATO 86/100 

D Brut 2019 : Pale salmon-pink. Nose of strawberry 

candy with a floral edge. Delicate palate opening up 

to compelling fruitiness and displaying a more vinous 

side laced with savoury sourness. Not really effusive but 

pleasantly balanced. 

Price: € 12.00 

FRANCE 

http://www.spinato.it 

Anna Spinato Azienda Vinicola 


+39 0422 857 927 

D Brut Meliora : Light pink. Soft, enticing nose of red 

fruit candy and marshmallow. The palate replicates this BACIO DELLA LUNA François Gilbert 86/100 

style precisely Olivier Delorme with lovely tension and lifted yet perhaps James Turnbull D Extra dry 2019 : Very pale pink. Compelling 

slightly monolithic aromatics. A compelling rosé. nose of ripe strawberry. The palate is richly styled yet 

Price: € 5.50 


SOUTH AFRICA 

SOUTH balanced AFRICA and offers up seductive aromatic intensity 


+39 0423 22 661 

FRANCE 


with fairly pronounced red fruit aromas. Equally suitable 

as a pudding wine or in cocktails. 

Price: € 7.49 

http://www.schenkitalia.it/ 

Wine characteristics 

■ SPARKLING BRUT 

■ SPARKLING EXTRA-BRUT 

■ SPARKLING BRUT ROSE 

CONV: In the process of converting to organic 

production. 

CR: This statement refers to sensible farming methods 

where use of inputs or agri-chemicals are restricted. 

These include fertilisers or other crop protection 

products, the aim being to limit their impact on the 

environment to a minimum. 

HVE: This French endorsement guarantees that all of the 

agricultural practices used across the farm safeguard the 

natural ecosystem and reduce environmental pressure – 

on the soils, water and biodiversity, for example – to a 

minimum. 

AGEABILITY 

D= DRINK NOW D= DRINK NOW OR KEEP D= KEEP 

CANTINE CLARA C 86/100 

D Brut Fiori di Prosecco 2020 : Beautiful light 

salmon-pink. Nose of red berry fruits augmented by 

citrus tones after airing. The palate is perfumed and 

very energetic in a very fresh style. Shows well on its 

own or in a cocktail. 

Price: € 9.90 

http://www.clarac.it 

Cantine Clara C 

+39 0438 18 99 995 

CANTINA PRODUTTORI VALDOBBIANE 85/100 

D Extra Dry 2019 : Pale pink. Very soft nose of 

red berry fruits accented by ripe strawberry. More of 

the same rounded style on the palate with pleasant 

freshness and recurring strawberry aromas. Set aside 

for red fruit puddings. 

http://www.valdoca.com 

Val d’Oca 

+39 0423 982 070 

PROSECCO D.O.C. TREVISO 

BOSCO DEL MERLOT 89/100 

D Brut rosé 2020 : Brilliant salmon hue. Charming 

nose combining cherry, red fruits and floral scents. 

Sleek palate that beguiles with its delicacy and unfurls 

generous, moreish flavours. Impeccably integrated 

bubbles. An invitation for sharing. 

Price: € 8.90 

http://www.paladin.it/ 

Paladin 

+39 0422 76 8167 

PALADIN 89/100 

D Brut rosé 2020 : Light salmon-pink with fine 

bubbles. Rich nose combining red fruits like morello 

cherry with a trace of flowers. Airy, concentrated palate 

suffused with generous effervescence. Enjoyable lifted 

intensity and aromatic persistency. Delicious. 

Price: € 8.20 

http://www.paladin.it/ 

Paladin 

+39 0422 76 8167 

RONFINI 88/100 

D Brut rosé 2020 : Pale pink. Delicate nose of 

zippy red berry fruits (raspberry, strawberry) with floral 

aromatics. Elegant pink bubbles with very smooth, 

saline fruit that stays very clean. This is a very earnest 

sparkling wine for some delicate pleasure. 

Price: € 5.00 

http://www.ronfini.com 

Cantina Ronfini Leonardo 

+39 0438 989 614 

GIOL 87/100 

ORG D Brut rosé 2020 : Pale pink. On the nose 

are aromas of strawberry and boiled sweets which 

carry through to the palate where simplicity and red 

fruit aromas are the main theme. Enjoy well-chilled as 

an aperitif or in cocktails. 

Price: € 8.00 

http://www.giolitalia.it 

Giol 

+39 0422 855 032 

WINTER 2021 - GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 125 


HUNGARY - Pannon 

HUNGARY 

OUR WINTER 

SELECTION 

We round off this issue with a cherrypicked 

selection of Hungarian wines, 

including some remarkable Tokaji whose 

style has undergone a sea-change over 

the past few years. 

PANNON 

SZEKSZARD 

HETÉNYI PINCÉSZET 88/100 

D Tabornok 2017 : Deep garnet with bricking. 

Generous nose combining black fruits, fine spices, 

liquorice and subtle oak. Robust, rich palate displaying 

lovely nascent depth. Spicy, saline, firm mid-palate. 

Perfect for game in a few years\’ time. 

Price: € 9.70 

https://hetenyipince.hu/en/ 

Hetényi Pincészet 

+36 20 222 8481 


D Merlot 2017 : Deep garnet with bricking. 

Endearing nose exuding black stone fruits, raspberry 

and truffle. The palate reveals a robust wine, still firm 

and marked by oak influence. The same aromas flow 

through with a trace of toast. Keep for a little while 

longer. 

Price: € 10.00 



+36 20 222 8481 


D Kadarka 2020 : Pale red. Subtle nose of red fruits 

with a trace of flowers. Ethereal palate showing lovely 

freshness and opening up to slightly more open aromas 

with notes of raspberry and redcurrant and a crisp 

edge. Serve slightly chilled with cold meats. 

Price: € 9.00 



+36 20 222 8481 

VILLANY 

JAMMERTAL WINE ESTATE 92/100 

D Koh-I-Noor Cabernet Franc - Ultimate Selection 

2011 : Concentrated colour tinged with garnet-brown. 

Nose of mocha, tar, stewed black fruits and generous 

forest floor aromas of leaves, mushrooms and leather. 

Generous, mouth-coating palate with moderate rustic 

characters. Composed tannins and ripe flavours. Pairs 

with slow, oven-cooked leg of lamb. 

Price: € 65.00 

http://jbb.hu/ 

Jammertal Wine Estate 

+36 23 502 110 


D Koh-I-Noor 105.6 - Ultimate Selection 2012 : The 

colour shows medium concentration with orangy-brick 

tints. Nose of mature wine, leather and stewed red and 

black fruits with forest floor overtones. The palate stays 

nicely austere with ripe fruit, composed tannins and 

lovely freshness on the finish leading the way. 

Price: € 65.00 



+36 23 502 110 


D Cassiopeia Merlot - Grande Sélection 2012 

: Light red with orangy tints. Delicate vanilla and 

menthol-like nose flowing into forest floor and jammy 

black berries. The palate is supported by freshness and 

suppleness with a gorgeous fruit and oak core. Smooth 

finish with crunchy tannins. 

Price: € 28.00 



+36 23 502 110 


D Cassiopeia Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 : Light red 

with brown reflections. Nose of mocha, liquorice, notes 

of undergrowth and stewed berries. Dense palate with 

Zsófia Kövesdi and Zsolt Nagy in the vineyards belonging to Jammertal Wine Estate 

powerful tannins and ripe, assertive fruitiness. The finish 

is nicely warm in a woodland style. A wine for lovers 

of muscular reds. 

Price: € 28.00 



+36 23 502 110 


D Ars Poetica Pinot Noir 2017 : Light red with 

garnet reflections. Nose of jammy cherries and wild 

strawberries with a sweet spice feel. Supple palate 

with moderate tannins, nicely ripe flavours and a spicedominant 

finish. A Pinot noir with trademark aromatics. 

Price: € 32.00 



+36 23 502 110 

TOKAJ 

TOKAJ 

HOLDVOLGY 97/100 

CR D Culture 2013 : Beautiful glistening golden 

hue. Intense nose of roast grape and candied fruits 

steeped in abundant freshness. The palate offers up a 

seamless fusion of concentration, richness and tension. 

The finish is clean and explosive with more of a tropical 

fruit slant. 

Price: € 90.00 

https://holdvolgy.com/en/ 

Holdvölgy 

+36 70 419 3059 


CR D Eloquence 2011 : Bright yellow-gold. 

Focused fruity nose recalling pineapple and mango 

with a honeyed touch. Concentrated, balanced palate 

supported by stellar freshness. A fairly accessible wine 

for the aperitif or with foie gras. 

Price: € 25.00 


Holdvölgy 

+36 70 419 3059 


CR D Hold and Hollo Dry 2018 : Clear, light 

gold. Delicate nose of almond with a mineral touch. 

The same, distinctively mineral aromatics flow through 

to the palate which stays sappy and fresh. Hallmark 

personality for a food-friendly wine that would show 

well with white meats. 

Price: € 18.00 


Holdvölgy 

+36 70 419 3059 


CR D Méditation 2018 : Very bright, beautiful light 

gold. Intense fruity nose recalling fresh almond with 

a subtle herbal touch. More upfront oakiness on the 

palate but also lots of freshness and elegance. A racy, 

all-round wine for fish or shellfish. 

Price: € 30.00 


Holdvölgy 

+36 70 419 3059 

138 


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