GG_N54_FR-web

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER: 

AUTHENTICITY AND NATURAL CHARACTER 

WINTER 2023 

L 19045 - 54 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Charline, Hugo, Antoine and Michel Drappier, 

two generations working in perfect harmony 

PAGES 116-130 

OUR WINTER SELECTIONS: 

SOUTH AFRICA - SPAIN - CHAMPAGNE - ARGENTINA - ITALY

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

23 

54 

69 

8 

News 

10 

Markets 

How Bordeaux is saving 

its globally renowned 

heritage 

23 

Trend 

The respectable values of 

premium Champagne 

34 

Terroir 

Prosecco Valdobbiadene 

Docg, a story of heroic 

viticulture and ‘Rive’ 

44 

Style 

From Côtes du Rhône to 

Where Goats Do Roam: 

Exploring the Rhône 

Style Wines of South 

Africa 

54 

Discovery 

Indulge in a wine tasting 

‘Safari’ in Greece 

64 

Focus 

Edoardo Freddi: 

A next-generation global 

business enabler for 

Italian fine wines 

69 

Success story 

How Armagnac, Cognac 

and Gin are reinventing 

themselves 

79 

Importer 

Víssimo, the Brazilian 

champion 

84 

Discovery 

Anjou and Saumur 

white wines, or Chenin 

in all its glory 

93 

Grape 

Malbec, the signature 

varietal that put 

Argentina on the world 

stage 

102 

Appellation 

How supply constraints are 

prompting Cava to reinvent 

itself 

112 

Stars & Wine 

Sarah Jessica Parker’s heart 

beats for Sauvignon! 

114 

Contact details 

116 

Winter selection 2023 

South Africa - Spain - 

Champagne - Argentina - Italy 

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COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

102 

WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

HOW CAVA IS BECOMING MORE RESILIENT 

The Spanish sparkling wine appellation has experienced 

incremental growth over the past few years, 

fuelled by its dynamic marketing strategies and competitive 

pricing, particularly in export markets. After two 

climate alerts in previous years, the 2023 harvest put a 

true damper on the industry’s enthusiasm as drought 

swept across the region and led volumes to plummet in 

some cases, potentially stifling growth in the future. 

This is a real issue for Cava because unlike Champagne, 

for example, it cannot use reserve wines from previous 

years to make up for the shortfall. Fortunately, not all 

vineyard sites were affected equally and some managed 

to avoid the downturn. Nevertheless, this mini crisis will 

have repercussions, including for prices which are likely 

to increase. It will probably also end sales promotions in 

a bid to recoup some of the volume losses by improving 

value gains. 

We travelled to a number of Cava producing regions – 

not just Catalonia but also Extremadura and Aragon – to 

sound out industry sentiment after this unprecedented, 

seismic event (see page 102). Producers are actually fairly 

confident and are focusing on their ability to innovate to 

overcome this setback. They are taking practical, common 

sense measures like implementing vineyard management 

techniques that promote water retention for instance – 

deep tillage and winter ground cover – in order to curb 

the worst effects of drought. Common sense and forward 

planning have, after all, always made good bedfellows. 

4 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

CHAMPAGNE REVERTS BACK TO 

THE FUNDAMENTALS 

The time when Champagne production was limited to 

the basic range staples that are ‘brut’, ‘demi-sec’ and 

rosé is long gone. The era when Champagne rode the crest 

of robust economic success – more or less in the second 

half of the 20th century – stoked by a constant growth 

in production and penetration of new export markets, 

is over. This was a time when a bottle of Champagne was 

mainly viewed as a symbol of celebration, newfound 

freedom and as something aspirational. Champagne as a 

‘product’ became the companion of unwavering economic 

growth and consumers cared little about the exact provenance 

of the wine, how it was made, its home village or 

its vineyard site. 

But that was then. Over the past ten or fifteen years, this 

has radically changed. Consumer and producer aspirations 

have now converged and Champagne has finally 

emerged as a wine in its own right, with a history, people 

– increasingly women – and a process. Today’s product 

portfolio is virtually endless, and the blends of yesteryear 

have almost fallen into oblivion. There are multiple 

levels of interpretation, ranging from the village to the 

vineyard block, the use or not of malolactic fermentation 

and a whole host of maturation styles – even solera! – or 

sometimes barrel fermentation. This stylistic revolution 

has laid the groundwork for an incredible exploration of 

a region which, ultimately, is as classic as it is timeless. 


5

EDITORIAL 

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

RIVE, THE JEWELS IN PROSECCO’S CROWN 

This Italian sparkling wine has won over the hearts, 

and palates, of Europe and beyond. Its soft texture, 

intense aromas and creamy effervescence offer instant 

appeal, not to mention the ease with which it slips 

into cocktails. 

But there are of course myriad Proseccos, spanning a 

range of styles and price brackets. We have chosen to 

focus on Rive, which are akin to a superior first growth in 

Prosecco and boast DOCG status. The term ‘Rive’ alludes 

to the steep hillsides that define the terrain, and it offers 

the perfect showcase for the multiple expressions of 

Conegliano Valdobbiadene. Rive-labelled wines are often 

grown on the steepest and most typical hillsides and 

their grapes come from a single village or hamlet within 

its boundaries. The aim is to highlight the distinctive 

features that terroir can convey to a wine. The appellation 

has 43 such Rive, each of them expressing different 

characters stemming from the soil, aspect and microclimate 

of the site. Other important aspects are yields 

– that cannot exceed 13 tonnes per hectare – mandatory 

harvesting by hand and a compulsory vintage statement 

on the label. 

All of these positive attributes are clearly encapsulated in 

the bottle. The wines are silky, precise and velvety with a 

more complex aromatic structure and a touch of salinity 

on the finish that shows clear site-expressiveness. And if 

you still have any doubts, go view the selection we have 

put together for you in this issue (pages 129-130). You 

won’t be disappointed. 


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DOMAINE 

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Riesling 

CRÉMANT D’ALSACE 

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CAVAVIN ILE DE NA 

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75 BOULEVARD DE L 

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iledenantes@cavavin 

COGNAC FONTPINO 

CAVAVIN OULLINS 

MR DOMINIQUE JAI 

154 GRANDE RUE 

69600 OULLINS 

04 26 18 58 25-06 66 31 

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CREMANT RIESLING 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

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DOMINIQUE JAILLER 

CAVAVIN OULLINS 

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oullins@cavavin.fr 

DOMAINE PACORY 

Hors d’Âge 

CALVADOS 

45,10€ 

GUILLAUME BARSOTTI 

CAVAVIN COLMAR 

41 rue Vauban 

68000 COLMAR 

+33 6 76 16 91 62 

colmar@cavavin.fr 

PASCAL BABIN 

CAVAVIN NANTES 

75 Boulevard de la Prairie au Duc 

44200 NANTES 

+33 2 28 29 34 12- +33 6 69 08 77 30 

iledenantes@cavavin.fr 

CAVES DE GRENELLE 

Louis de grenelle 

CRÉMANT DE LOIRE 

10,90€ 

PAULO FORTUNATO 

CAVAVIN JUVISY SUR ORGE 

23 rue Victor Hugo 

91260 JUVISY SUR ORGE 

+33 6 03 84 74 94 

juvisysurorge@cavavin.fr 

CAVAVIN JUVISY SU 

MR PAULO FORTUN 

23 RUE VICTOR HUG 

91260 JUVISY SUR OR 

06 03 84 74 94 

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CREMANT DE LOIRE 

CAVAVIN COLMAR 

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41 RUE VAUBAN 

68000 COLMAR 

06 76 16 91 62 

colmar@cavavin.fr 

CALVADOS HORS AG 


7

NEWS 

HOSPICES DE BEAUNE 2023: MARGINAL DECREASE ON 2022 

Despite a challenging environment, the Hospices de Beaune wine auction posted the second best results ever, reaching 23 million 

euros on Sunday 19 November 2023. The figure was just marginally down on the incredible achievement of 2022, 

though the average cask price remained above €30,000. 

Whilst the decrease (approximately 20%) was fairly significant 

per se, it actually hides the bigger picture. The 2022 sale, 

which totalled 29 million euros, smashed all previous records and 

equalling it this year was therefore a pretty tall order, particularly 

because the volume of wine up for auction was lower, with 753 

casks auctioned versus 817 in 2022. The average cask price plummeted 

this year to €30,500 compared with €35,500 last year. What 

the 2023 auction did show was a more balanced phase between 

supply and demand for Burgundy wine. Following a second generous 

crop, the time seems to have come for supply pressures to 

subside, and perhaps prices to drop. 

LESS DEMAND FOR THE PRESIDENTS’ CASK 

The highly popular presidents’ cask – whose proceeds are donated 

to charity, unlike the other casks whose profits are donated to the 

hospital in Beaune – was bought for €350,000 by Olivier Poelaert, 

the owner of Château de Couches and the Mazenay winery in the 

low-profile Côtes du Couchois area. The amount paid was significantly 

less than the record €810,000 reached last year by the 

charity cask, a price that will likely be hard to beat 

– the wine was a blend of Corton paying homage to 

Burgundy negociant Louis- Fabrice Latour. 

https://domaine.hospices-de-beaune.com/ 

© Titouan Rimbault 

2023 BURGUNDY: ALL-SET FOR BOTH GOOD VOLUME AND QUALITY 

Burgundy had not experienced two consecutive years of above-average volumes for a few years. 

Coming on the back of the 2022 harvest, the 2023 crop has undeniably lifted spirits of winegrowers and negociants alike – 

wineries are once again (almost) full, and in both instances, the wine is good quality. 

This is the positive flipside of the vintage. Despite the unstable 

weather conditions over the summer, the final outcome is 

impressive. The Chardonnay, Aligoté and Sauvignon fruit ripened 

fully in perfect health, yet stayed fresh enough to live up to the 

reputation of white Burgundy. And once again, Pinot noir has 

proven to be the king of grapes in the region. After thorough 

sorting in many cases, made all the easier by the higher yields, 

stellar juice entered the tanks, showing substantial aromatics. 

Consequently, the wines are expressive and fruity with excellent 

aromatic profiles, both for the whites and the reds. The vintage 

offers something for everyone such is the variety of styles promoted 

by the choice of harvest dates. The thought of 

exploring the 2023 vintage is already something 

to look forward to! 

https://www.vins-bourgogne.fr/ 

AN AMAZING 2023 CROP, WHICH WAS BOTH HEALTHY AND ABUNDANT 


NEWS 

FRAPIN 1990: TOTAL GRATIFICATION 

The 1990 vintage is a benchmark both for wines and brandies. This elegant, supple, 

polished and appetising Cognac in particular stems from a complex fusion of a unique 

terroir, time-honoured artistry and a passion for excellence. 

Frapin’s signature style is expressed in its voluptuously rich aromatics and endless length 

on the palate. It boasts unique character instilled by the climatic variations of that particular 

year in this hillside vineyard of Chez Piet. Obviously, it was harvested, distilled on the 

lees and matured at the estate. The 1990 vintage encapsulates the subtle site-expressiveness 

of the Grande Champagne vineyards. Don’t forget to leave it in the glass for a while, it will 

benefit from the time. And to be honest, the opportunity to turn the clocks back by 30 years 

at this price is a snip. 

Recommended retail price: €195 including VAT. 

https://www.cognac-frapin.com/ 

BORDEAUX FEELS THE HEAT 

Since 2022, there has been a glaring imbalance between production and sluggish sales of Bordeaux, and that disconnect has 

become structural. The industry is working to find emergency solutions for farms in the most challenging situations, 

and structural measures to ensure a sustainable future. Here’s a review of the situation. 

Since 2019, there have been countless disappointments: 

China’s wine imports have shrunk, Hong Kong has been in a 

political crisis, Trump imposed taxes in the United States, there 

have been uncertainties surrounding Brexit, an unprecedented 

global pandemic, war in Ukraine, inflation… These events have 

had a profound impact on global trade, and severely affected 

Bordeaux. In the vineyards, a series of weather events – frost, hail 

and drought – have undermined crop potential from one vintage 

to the next, making it impossible to have a long-term vision and 

jeopardising wineries’ profitability. And last but not least, the 

drop in consumption, especially for red wines, has exacerbated 

the situation. 

The industry has taken structural measures – subsidised permanent 

vine-pulls to reduce volumes over the long term – and drastic 

short-term measures (distillation). It has also continued with its 

sustainability agenda, through a commitment to CSR (Corporate 

Social Responsibility), increased environmental certifications, 

development of organic wines and carbon reduction to name a few. 

Concurrently with this, the industry has been striving to reinvent 

itself and better align its range of wines with current consumer 

demand, by diversifying in terms of colour (whites, Crémant), 

occasions and styles, combining the classic pours with more 

offbeat offerings (new varietals). In an era of uncertainty, one thing 

is for sure – we certainly haven’t heard the last of Bordeaux. Take a 

look for yourself in our comprehensive feature report on page 10. 


9

HOW BORDEAUX IS SAVING ITS 

GLOBALLY RENOWNED HERITAGE 

BY CAMILLE BERNARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY 

OF THE ESTATES 

In France’s Bordeaux wine region, a sea-change is occurring. Faced 

with an unprecedented crisis worsened by Covid-19 and overproduction, 

the winegrowers of Bordeaux are navigating through choppy waters. 

However, financial difficulties and the need for innovation are 

galvanising both brands and chateaux into action in a bid to reshape 

the future of the wine market. 

A BOTTLING LINE AT YVON MAU FACILITIES IN GIRONDE-SUR-DROPT 


BORDEAUX 

MARKETS 

LEFT TO RIGHT, BROTHERS CÉSAR AND CHARLES LARRAQUÉ, CO-FOUNDERS OF CHARLES & CÉSAR 

B 

ordeaux, the historic epicentre of the global wine industry, is going through 

turbulent times. The recent pandemic has had a considerable impact on the 

wine market, with restaurant closures both in France and abroad leading to 

plummeting sales. 

Coupled with the closure of the all-important Chinese market and chronic overproduction, 

this situation has plunged nearly one third of Bordeaux winegrowers 

into severe financial difficulties. Last July, an aid plan was rolled out so that 

nearly 10,000 hectares under vine could be ripped up, which gives an accurate 

indication of the extent of the crisis. 

In this challenging environment, shipping companies and individual winegrowers 

– the pillars of this long-standing wine region – are not idly standing 

by, but are redoubling their efforts to adapt and reinvent themselves. 

Their quest reveals a striking range of strategies, with some of them opting to 

spread their geographical net further and explore emerging markets that show 

a thirst for quality wines. Others are focusing on range extensions, introducing 

innovative bottlings or revamping their winemaking techniques to appeal to 

a younger, more cosmopolitan audience. The aim is two-fold – this is not just 

about weathering the current storm, but also laying the foundations for a more 

resilient and prosperous future for the Bordeaux wine industry. 


11

THE ‘BEAUX PARLEURS’ BRAND 

DISTRIBUTED AT A ‘BEAUX 

PARLEURS NIGHT TOUR’ 

IN BORDEAUX 

CHARLES & CÉSAR: 

MORE THAN JUST BREAKING WITH CONVENTIONS 

Established in 2020 by brothers Charles and César Larraqué, the Charles & César 

trading company offers an innovative and enterprising take on the Bordeaux wine 

arena. Since the outset, Charles and César Larraqué have been convinced of the need to 

appeal to a younger audience that is all too often ignored. They had an eye for an emerging 

trend and their company soon carved out a place for itself in the Bordeaux wine 

market. The elder of the two brothers and co-founder, Charles Larraqué, recounts: 

“Our aim was to address young consumers, a segment the wine market tends to neglect 

when it is urgent to find solutions to the lack of renewal of the customer base”. Right 

off the bat, the brothers created Beaux Parleurs, a brand that directly targets young 

people. And to ensure the brand met with success, the pair implemented a strategy 

which might seem self-evident but is often underestimated: “We aimed to distribute 

our product in the right place, the space where young people live like student parties”. 

This is not just a marketing strategy, as Larraqué stresses: “Faced with current competition 

from beer, we need to acknowledge the importance of pure players for these 

drinks [Ed. beers] which, twenty years ago, successfully captured the attention of 

young people. It is therefore essential that the wine industry become a huge magnet 

for these consumers by making wine fashionable”. 

Charles & César has undeniably blazed the trail – three years after it was founded, its 

revenue has reached a very respectable 9 million euros. “Beaux Parleurs has become 

our biggest brand with sales of 650,000 bottles a year in France”, points out Larraqué, 


ALL THE VINEYARDS BELONGING 

TO BORDEAUX VINEAM ARE 

FARMED ORGANICALLY AND 

BIODYNAMICALLY 

who also stresses the importance of the rosé and white cocktail range. The flavoured 

wine-based drinks, that take their cue from the mixology space, have also helped get 

more young people on board and enter the wine segment. 

Concurrently with this, Charles & César has a premium wine trading business encapsulated 

in their Cachemire range, “which illustrates our expertise in winemaking”, 

explains Larraqué, adding: “We work with a cherry-picked selection of properties that 

are chosen for the quality of their wine and the way they dovetail with our values”. 

With more than one string to its bow, Charles & César has successfully coped with 

the challenging situation. “Because of the pandemic, we focused primarily on super/ 

hypermarkets which now account for 90% of our business”, recounts Larraqué. The 

strategy has enabled the brand to remain sustainable and to continue to grow, including 

overseas where prospects are promising in Belgium and the Ivory Coast. 

The Larraqué brothers are appealing to the entire industry to renew its customer base 

and do more than just think outside the box: “Bordeaux still holds a 40% market share. 

We are convinced that renewal will come from our region”, claims Larraqué. 

BORDEAUX VINEAM: DIFFERENTIATION THROUGH 

QUALITY AND CERTIFICATION 

Founded a decade or so ago, Bordeaux Vineam, which is managed by Jean-Baptiste 

Soula, has undergone a radical transformation. As a producer of organic and biodynamic 

Bordeaux wines initially focused on bulk sales, the group has made a significant strategic 


13

BORDEAUX 

MARKETS 

BORDEAUX VINEAM HAS CHOSEN TO STAND OUT FOR ITS 

INTRINSIC QUALITY 

CHÂTEAU ROCHER BELLEVUE, OWNED BY BORDEAUX VINEAM IN AOC CASTILLON CÔTES 

DE BORDEAUX 

shift towards bottle-only sales, choosing to stand 

out not for its image but for the intrinsic quality of 

its products. 

Jean-Baptiste Soula, managing director of Bordeaux 

Vineam, expounds further: “When I talk about the 

product, I only talk about the wine. We have sought 

to become more professional and secure multiple 

certifications to reach this level of quality”. 

This is not just idle marketing talk – the company’s 

strategy has led to dual certification, both for the 

products and the system. “In terms of product certification, 

the group’s six properties in Aquitaine are 

certified organic and biodynamic. We also produce 

sulphite-free wines and even wines that are certified 

organic by Chinese standards, which is extremely 

rare considering the stringency of the criteria”, 

explains Soula, adding: “For our system certification, 

we have introduced ISO 9001 and 14001 standards 

which guarantee good corporate practice and 

make us more professional at risk management”. 

This strategy has enabled Bordeaux Vineam to stand 

out in the international marketplace, especially in 

Asia and the United States where large companies 

value these certifications greatly. “Exports are a 

key market for us, particularly Asia and the United 

States which are interested in our certifications and 

our sulphite-free wines. In Europe, the situation is 

different. The estate wines are popular, especially 

for Sauternes, Médoc and Côtes de Bordeaux”. 

Ultimately, Bordeaux Vineam’s vision, which 

places quality at the core of the company’s 

strategy, demonstrates that innovation and adaptability 

are essential for securing shelf stand-out 

in the competitive world of wine. “Our aim is not 

just to sell a product but a service”, concludes 

Jean- Baptiste Soula. 

MAISON BOUEY: “TO GENERATE 

DEMAND, YOU NEED FINE-TUNED 

MARKETING LEVERS” 

Founded over 200 years ago in the Médoc, Maison 

Bouey exemplifies a story of passion for wine. Its 

CEO, Jacques Bouey, embodies the sixth generation 

of this family heritage. 


IN EUROPE, BORDEAUX 

VINEAM ACHIEVES SUCCESS 

WITH ITS ESTATE WINES 

BORDEAUX VINEAM 

PRODUCES ORGANIC 

WINES COMPLYING WITH 

CHINESE STANDARDS 

YANN BOUEY, REPRESENTING THE 

SEVENTH GENERATION AT MAISON 

BOUEY, MANAGES THE EXPORT 

DEPARTMENT FOR THE FAMILY- 

RUN TRADING COMPANY 

SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

15

BORDEAUX 

MARKETS 

“Our adventure in wine began with my grandfather Roger in 1958 and each generation 

has built upon it”, explains Bouey. The present-day company balances its business 

between France and export markets. 

Maison Bouey is more than just a trading company – one of its defining features is its 

independently run wineries. This fairly rare occurrence makes it noteworthy, with the 

wineries managing every aspect from sourcing the wines through to their distribution. 

“Few negociants have this type of industry activity”, confirms Bouey. 

As the owner of 52 hectares in the Médoc, Maison Bouey draws on its own vineyards to 

define its market strategy: “The land is our cornerstone”, claims Bouey, adding, “We are 

not only proud of our identity as land owners but also our identity as a family full of life, 

which I embody but so does my nephew Yann who is in charge of exports”. 

Sporting modern labels, the premium wines marketed under the Famille Bouey brand 

mirror this fusion of tradition and modernity. 

Maison Bouey also develops innovative concepts such as Colors, in conjunction with 

Pantone, which enables it to tap into multiple grocery outlets in France and to grow its 

sales in export markets where it has resonated with consumers in the United States, 

Japan and Africa. “To generate demand, you need fine-tuned marketing levers. To 

start with, you need to understand that there is a gap between mature and developing 

markets. The mature markets – the northern belt of Europe and the French on-trade – is 

tired of traditional Bordeaux. Demand has therefore shifted and the wine requires a new 

LEFT TO RIGHT, JACQUES, SERGE, YANN AND PATRICK BOUEY, A FAMILY THAT IS FULL OF LIFE 


4 covers: France, Spain, Italy, South Africa This edition is now available until March 2024 

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BORDEAUX 

MARKETS 

JACQUES BOUEY IS OPTIMISTIC ABOUT NEW MARKET OPPORTUNITIES 

interpretation. As for the developing markets – 

places like South Korea, Japan and Africa – they 

are plunging into modernity at full tilt and we are 

definitely seeing a resurgence in consumption 

of the traditional styles of Bordeaux we used to 

produce ten years ago”. 

At the same time, Bouey comments that in 

France, the biggest Bordeaux wine drinkers are 

aged between 50 and 70 and they want the reassurance 

that comes with traditional wines. “Basically, 

you have to adapt”, concludes Bouey, who is 

fairly optimistic about new market opportunities 

that he can see emerging in these troubled times. 

SAVAS: THE BORDEAUX WINE 

REVOLUTION IN AN ERA 

OF GLOBALISATION 

THE PREMISES OF TRADING COMPANY SAVAS ARE HOUSED IN A MAGNIFICENT MANOR 

HOUSE IN CAUDÉRAN 

Since it was established in 1975, Savas – a trading 

company specialising in brand creation – has 

transitioned from being a local cash & carry to 

becoming a major player in the international 

wine market. 

“Our story began at the Les Capucins market in 

Bordeaux”, explains Savas’ marketing manager 

Antonin Fenniche. The company has since then 

established a reputation among wholesalers and 

major retailers with exports now accounting for 

90% of its revenue. Its wines are marketed in over 

twenty countries. 

Savas has successfully conquered key international 

markets, primarily the United States, 

Asia and the United Kingdom by establishing 

partnerships with renowned distributors. “Our 

wines are on the shelves of high-profile retailers 

like Trader Joe’s, Costco and Whole Foods in the 

United States and we are also active in French 

super/hypermarkets”, adds Fenniche. 

The company has also developed extensive expertise 

for on-trade professionals and for marketing 

Grands Crus, both in France and internationally. 

Its strategy aims to consolidate its traditional 

markets whilst exploring new opportunities in 

Asia and Europe. But one of Savas’ USPs in a 

competitive marketplace is its expertise in sour- 


GÉRALDINE LEFEBVRE-LOPEZ, 

THE OWNER OF VIGNOBLES LOPEZ 

cing bulk and brokering bottled deals, combined with a complete range of solutions for 

marketing customisation. “We provide our buyers with an extensive choice of options, 

from creating artwork to customising packaging, whilst also ensuring excellent value 

for money”, claims the company’s marketing manager. 

Savas is constantly adapting to changing consumer preferences and market trends. Its 

range encompasses both AOC Bordeaux in various styles and more specific Pauillac, 

Saint-Émilion Grand Cru and Sauternes labels for instance. “Bordeaux is still the 

mainstay of our range but we are constantly innovating to meet a variety of needs”. The 

company also thinks outside the classic formats by introducing bag-in-boxes, cans and 

alcohol-free wines. As the owner of Château Gromel Bel Air in the Bordeaux Supérieur 

appellation, Savas, under Cyrille Roche’s management, supervises the entire production 

process, from the vineyard through to the bottle. “Our dual function as a negociant and 

property owner offers a testament to our wholehearted commitment to the Bordeaux 

wine arena”, concludes Fenniche with unmistakable pride. 

VIGNOBLES LOPEZ: COMBINING INNOVATION WITH 

A RESPECT FOR TRADITION 

In a wine region that is often accused of not knowing how to reinvent itself, the track 

record of Géraldine Lefebvre-Lopez and Vignobles Lopez in fact demonstrates a 

remarkable ability to adapt faced with a constantly changing marketplace. After taking 

over the family’s legacy, which began in 1963, Lefebvre-Lopez has established a reputation 

as a leading light in the revival of the Bordeaux wine scene. Admittedly, she has 

worked hard, taking over the family-run winery in 2009 after excelling as a student 

followed by a rewarding career experience in Spain. At the winery, she has converted the 

vineyards over to organic, developed export sales and refocused on bottled wine sales. 

“When I took over the reins, our wines were mostly sold in bulk. I chose to rise to 

the challenge of selling our wines in bottles and the initiative has paid off”, explains 


19

BORDEAUX 

MARKETS 

Lefebvre-Lopez. By 2011, she was already introducing innovations such 

as customised labels and bespoke liveries for her customers, a strategy 

that bolstered the presence of her Château Lagrugère and Château de 

l’Hermitage brands internationally (see issue n°24). 

Despite their greatest efforts, the Lopez family’s resilience has been 

seriously put to the test by climate change since 2017. “We have had to 

cope with challenging vintages, with crop losses of up to 50%”, laments 

Lefebvre-Lopez. 

Although seriously affected, she and her husband Olivier – who joined 

her at the family-run winery in 2020 – have refused to give up and 

have launched new initiatives aimed at diversifying their range and 

appealing to an even broader audience. “We have introduced single 

varietals, including 100% Sémillon and 100% Petit Verdot labels to set 

ourselves apart from classic Bordeaux”. 

Meanwhile, the winegrower’s ability to promote her wines has also 

borne fruit on the international stage: “The gold medals awarded to 

Château Lagruère and Château de l’Hermitage bolstered our positions 

in demanding markets such as China”, she explains, whilst also pointing 

out that after coming to a total standstill for six months, exports 

are off to a lukewarm start. 

GÉRALDINE LEFEBVRE-LOPEZ AND HER HUSBAND OLIVIER LEFEBVRE 


BORDEAUX 

MARKETS 

The Lopez family has also refocused its efforts on 

the French market, choosing as primary targets 

direct-to-consumer sales and the on-trade. 

Lefebvre-Lopez’s objective is now clear: “We 

aim to increase the share of direct-to-consu mer 

sales, which already account for 25% of our 

business, and develop our range of wine tourism 

solutions”. 

THE WINERY AT YVON MAU 

YVON MAU: REINVENTING 

TRADITION BY ADAPTING 

TO YOUNGER GENERATIONS 

Founded in 1897, trading company Yvon Mau 

is a pillar of the Bordeaux wine industry. “Four 

successive generations of the Mau family have 

run the company, each one adding its own contribution”, 

explains Frédérique Lenoir, marketing 

and communications director at Freixenet 

Gratien, the French subsidiary of international 

group Henkell Freixenet. 

When Yvon Mau was bought by Freixenet at the 

turn of the 2000s, then Freixenet merged with 

Henkell in 2019, the company became Freixenet 

Gratien. The change marked a new era for 

Yvon Mau, although its production facilities in 

Gironde-sur-Dropt remained the same, thereby 

safeguarding its traditional expertise. 

In the face of market challenges, adds Lenoir, “we 

conducted a complete revamp of the Yvecourt 

brand, established over 45 years ago, after realising 

that most of our customers were over 60”. 

Yvon Mau thus decided to radically reposition the 

brand, whilst also staying true to its roots. The 

strapline “ever popular” was chosen to illustrate 

the transition, combining modernity and heritage. 

Wines under the Yvecourt brand, renowned 

for their consistent flavours and quality, were 

re-launched with a contemporary design that 

also featured a nod to the history of Yvon Mau. 

Alongside this, the Premius brand, distributed 

in France and export markets, now targets thirty-somethings 

keen to enjoy “off-beat, accessible 

Bordeaux”. 

Whilst these two brands have, to date, generated 

YVON MAU’S FACILITIES IN GIRONDE-SUR-DROPT 


21

BORDEAUX 

MARKETS 

THE EXPERTISE OF YVON MAU REMAINS UNCHANGED 

fairly positive results in their respective markets, the trading side of the business 

is faced with more challenging issues to overcome. Lenoir explains: “Our business 

in this segment bears no relationship with the Yvecourt and Premius brands where 

the target is more buyers ‘with their heads down’, meaning consumers where the 

style of the label is fairly irrelevant and the quality in the glass is what matters”. 

Despite the downward trend in sales of Bordeaux wines, Lenoir remains optimistic: 

“Initial feedback following the Yvecourt brand revamp is encouraging, even though 

we won’t get proper confirmation until the start of 2024. Export markets are also 

showing promising signs, particularly the American market”. Lenoir concludes by 

saying that “Bordeaux is still an incredible brand name, equivalent to Champagne 

in terms of prestige. But what we now need to work on is the Grands Crus image 

which is not the same as that of winegrowers who get their hands dirty and deserve 

to see their work recognised just as much”. 

BORDEAUX IS STARTING TO BOUNCE BACK 

Despite an unprecedented crisis, Bordeaux continues to offer an element of 

surprise, move forward and generate appeal, confirming its unrivalled place on 

the global wine stage. Faced with present-day challenges, Bordeaux winegrowers 

and negociants show a remarkable ability to reinvent themselves. 

The variety of strategies implemented, ranging from creating brands targeting 

a younger audience to exploring new international markets, illustrates the vitality 

and resilience of Bordeaux and proves that despite the economic and climate 

challenges, its potential for innovation and quality is still impressive. So no, we 

certainly haven’t heard the last of Bordeaux! 


THE RESPECTABLE VALUES 

OF PREMIUM CHAMPAGNE 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 



The legendary Champagne is celebrated worldwide and epitomises 

French winemaking excellence. Among the high-end offerings geared 

to quality, brands and winegrowers have broadened their standard 

range to include unique labels that showcase both terroir and the art 

of winegrowing. 

BLENDING AT CHAMPAGNE DE SAINT-GALL 

LÉGENDES 


23

CHAMPAGNE 

TREND 

VINCENT RAPENEAU AND HIS THREE CHILDREN, 

VICTORINE, MARTIN AND LINE 

Tastes and trends change, mirrored in the ebb 

and flow of the market place, but despite this, 

Champagne continues to scale the heights. As the 

range of sparkling wines continues to burgeon 

around the world, wines from this unique region 

located 150 kilometres East of Paris remain an 

undeniable benchmark and a staple of all those 

memorable moments in life. The appellation 

area, whose boundaries were defined in a 1927 

law, covers 34,300 hectares and 319 localities, 

farmed by 16,000 winegrowers. According to the 

Champagne wine marketing board CIVC, shipments 

rose by 1.6% in 2022 compared with the 

previous year, reaching 326 million bottles. The 

increase underscores the Champagne industry’s 

global vitality, exemplified by its ever-popular 

standard range and unique high-end labels that 

offer considerable added value compared with a 

standard Brut. The concept of limited edition and 

artisan production methods that fully encapsulate 

flavour is allowing the industry to leverage 

the brand equity perceived by consumers. 

CHAMPAGNE G.H. MARTEL & CO: 

A RICH HISTORY 

For over a century, this household name in 

Champagne has been developing and sharing 

its heritage and focus on excellence. For four 

generations, the Rapeneau family has been the 

epitome of meticulous care in nurturing its 

high-end labels. Its art of blending encapsulates 

its incredible array of vineyard sites which 

cover 100 hectares and are certified High Environmental 

Value. Among the unique collection 

of Champagne houses with a presence in 72 

countries, the Paul Louis Martin independent 

grower brand stands out for its single-vineyard 

selections and its inimitable style combining 

heritage, passion, terroir and elegance. “Our five 

labels all show different aromas and exuberance”, 

explains cellar master Vincent Rapeneau. “We 

aim to market them as Brut nature. The vineyard 

blocks have been chosen based on their location 


and the quality of the wine they produce over several 

vintages. The aim is to market Champagnes offering 

unique pleasure in a limited amount of 3,400 bottles 

to a clientele of informed experts”. The specific winemaking 

techniques reveal the elegant site-expressiveness 

of the Grand Cru classified village Bouzy. 

The wines are made in temperature-controlled 

stainless steel tanks from a balanced blend of three 

grape varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Pinot 

Meunier. Maturation for over 24 months produces 

the perfect aromatic maturity. The wines are fruity, 

powerful and generous and are popular both in 

France and export markets among both private 

customers and professionals aiming to find that 

rare gem. 

CHAMPAGNE DE SAINT-GALL: 

COLLABORATION AT ITS FINEST 

This Champagne house has been driven by talented 

winegrowers with a passion for what they do and 

strong commitments for over fifty years. In 1966, 

several co-operative wineries founded Union Champagne 

in order to guarantee supplies of grapes from 

the finest vineyard sites, whilst pooling skills. The 

2,300 grape growers belonging to 15 co-operatives 

nurture their Chardonnay and Pinot noir vines with 

an expert touch, combining their skills and energy 

to benefit their collaborative project. Through the De 

Saint-Gall brand, they craft quintessential artisan 

Champagnes in a pure, elegant style. “We produce 

terroir-driven Champagnes that reflect our location 

and the unique situation of vines belonging to 

our members, 90% of which are classified as Grand 

and Premier Cru”, explains cellar master Cédric 

Jacopin. “Virtually all the range displays defining 

features stemming from the different vineyard sites 

and promotion of the Cru, with lengthy maturations, 

distinctive winemaking techniques, partial 

malolactic fermentation, oak maturation and low 

dosages”. These techniques bolster terroir characters, 

particularly the Côte des Blancs Grands Crus, 

but also the Pinot noir from South of the Montagne 

de Reims, in Bouzy and Ambonnay. “For these unique 


25

HARVESTING AT CHAMPAGNE 

DE SAINT-GALL 

labels, we don’t have any specific restrictions, aside from impeccable 

traceability”, adds Jacopin. “Investments promote small-batch winemaking 

using beautiful fruit from vines that show real site- expressiveness”. 

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER: 

NATURAL AUTHENTICITY 

The Drappier family has been driven by a passion for excellence for 

over two centuries. Founded in 1808, this family-run property covers 62 

hectares of owned vineyards and 50 under contract. Since 1979, it has been 

managed by Michel Drappier. Emphasis is placed on very low dosage and 

moderate usage of sulphites – the Brut Nature Sans Soufre is the culmination 

of this policy as are the unique labels that account for 50% of releases. 

“The alchemy is all about revealing the uniqueness of the terroir by overstating 

the character of the wine with little or no sulphur and dosage so 

that it can express itself”, explains Michel Drappier. “This requires more 

work in the winery and in the vineyard, with a choice of grape varieties 

that are more challenging to manage and use of manual techniques that 

are certified organic”. This production method reveals remarkable site-expressiveness 

which is often more difficult to grasp in a non-vintage Brut 

Champagne. “We are witnessing renewed appeal and demand for unique 

labels at the moment”, adds Drappier. “We haven’t adjusted our wines to 

suit individual markets for a long time – sweeter offerings for Eastern 


CHAMPAGNE 

TREND 

Europe or more mature styles for England for example. Today’s enthusiast is 

the same whatever the continent. Customers are curious and are looking for 

authenticity. Our curiosity in probing the geological and genetic heritage of 

our grape varieties has been passed on to our customers”. 

CHAMPAGNE VINCENT COUCHE: 

THE SECRET IS IN THE FRUIT 

The views sweeping down over bucolic landscapes and outstanding vineyards 

are breath-taking. Located in the heart of the Côte des Bar, Vincent Couche 

named his 15 hectare-vineyard after himself in 1996. As a well-informed winegrower 

who treats the land with respect, he farms his vines organically and 

biodynamically. “Our production methods are in total symbiosis with nature”, 

he explains. “My specifications require perfectly balanced fruit to be able to 

turn it into wine without using any inputs, chaptalisation, yeasting, filtering 

or sulphur”. The results are spectacular with a flavour profile that underscores 

ripeness and great freshness despite hazardous weather conditions. “I don’t feel 

like I’m producing unique blends”, adds Couche. “I try to draw maximum poten- 

MICHEL DRAPPIER TAKES A BREAK IN HIS VINEYARDS WITH HIS THREE CHILDREN, 

CHARLINE, HUGO AND ANTOINE 


27

THE CELLAR AT 

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

VINCENT COUCHE 

LAURENCE PLOYEZ 

28

CHAMPAGNE 

TREND 

tial and expressiveness from my vineyard sites whilst 

showing utmost respect for the environment, soil 

quality and the fruit with the most accurate yields 

possible”. 

A FAMILY TASTING WITH IMPORTERS IN THE VINEYARD 

AT CHAMPAGNE VINCENT COUCHE 

CHAMPAGNE PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART: 

IN THE HEART OF THE WINE REGION 

No self-respecting appellation enthusiast can 

miss a stop at this location. Behind the vineyards 

of Ployez-Jacquemart is a passion for outstanding 

Champagnes which are snapped up by demanding 

customers who appreciate the French lifestyle. 

Created in 1930 by Marcel Ployez and his wife 

Yvonne Jacquemart, this family-run company is 

now represented by Laurence Ployez who took 

over from her father Gérard. As a third-generation 

winegrower, she perpetuates the house’s 

founding values of tradition, high standards and a 

firm local footing. “Our Champagnes are first and 

foremost very pure, fine wines”, she points out. 

“All our blends are produced entirely from firstpress 

juice so that the fruit can express its finest 

qualities. Winemaking techniques are aimed at 

producing this result with regular racking and the 

shortest possible time spent on the lees”. All the 

Champagnes are matured on racks after riddling. 

Their flavour profile is the catalyst for deciding 

whether they will be marketed as zero dosage or 

Brut nature. Lengthy cellar maturation hones 

acidity and is conducive to this approach to flavour 

with no added sugar. “Our 2013 Blanc de Blancs 

Zero Dosage and our 2015 Blanc de Noirs Vintage 

are perfect expressions of their vineyard sites and 

grape varieties”, claims Ployez. “They invariably 

stem from unique harvests which cannot be replicated 

every year and therefore account for no more 

than 10% of our sales”. 

THE CELLARS AT CHAMPAGNE PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART 

CHAMPAGNE COLLARD-PICARD: 

FINESSE AND PURITY 

In an industry where competition is fierce, 

Collard-Picard manages to successfully achieve a 


29

CHAMPAGNE 

TREND 

CAROLINE AND OLIVIER COLLARD 

subtle balance between power, finesse and purity 

in its Champagnes. The unique growths account 

for nearly 80% of volumes at this 16-hectare estate 

divided between the Côte des Blancs and the right 

bank of the Marne Valley. Each one of them reflects 

its vineyard sites, with no filters or artifice. “This 

might seem odd, but some of our wines are sold 

as still wines”, stresses Olivier Collard. “I conduct 

a very stringent selection of the wines I want to 

keep that best match my requirements”. Winemaking 

is as hands-off as possible, with native 

yeast during alcoholic fermentation, no malolactic 

fermentation and large oak barrels that 

promote micro-oxygenation and avoid adding 

any oaky flavours. The aim is that the people 

drinking them can easily understand the origin of 

the wine by recognising the grape varieties used 

and their original vineyard site. “The quality of 

the fruit is our only restriction because we know 

how to manage the rest”, points out Collard. 

“Generally speaking, the reason we take a low-intervention 

approach during winemaking is quite 

simply because we don’t need to intervene due 

to the stellar quality of the fruit. Over its 25-year 

history, the brand has built up a solera system of 

ageing which produces two perpetual reserves, 

complemented by nine years of bottle inventories. 

The result is virtually the only one of its kind 

in Champagne”. 

OLIVIER COLLARD IN HIS VINEYARDS ALONG THE RIGHT BANK OF THE MARNE VALLEY 

CHAMPAGNE LAURENT LEQUART: 

A NATURAL VINEYARD SETTING 

Nestled in the Marne Valley, this winery nurtures 

its vines with passion, showing respect for the 

sites and the environment over four generations. 

The main grape variety is still Meunier, an elegant, 

fruity varietal which is popular for its appetising 

flavours. Laurent Lequart is passionate about 

vines and wines and took over the family-run 

property in 1987. He now farms 11.4 hectares and 

markets 80,000 bottles a year, 60% of them in 

export markets. “Our Champagnes show distinctive 

roundness, finesse, fruitiness and freshness 

with endless moreish flavours”, comments Laurent 

Continue on page 32 


TASTING TASTING 

RARE RARE BOTTLE BOTTLE 

93 / 100 

CHAMPAGNE 

MAURICE VESSELLE 

EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU 2013 

Certified High Environmental Value since 2013, the vineyards are rooted in the 

southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. The Pinot noir-dominant grapes 

for this label fully encapsulate the complexity of their 100% classified site. The 

house is a Montagne de Reims benchmark, renowned for its mature vintages 

and vinous, food-friendly Champagnes crafted by two passionate winegrowers. 

The house was created in 1955 by Maurice Vesselle. His two sons, Didier 

and Thierry, are now at its helm and pamper their nine hectares of vines 

in Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne all year round, as generations of winegrowers 

have done before them. They use techniques such as tillage, hilling up, 

ploughing back and soil amendments that were long considered fanciful. 

However, their quest for depth in the soils is now the envy of many vineyards. 

By taking such a conscientious approach to loosening their soils, the Vesselle 

brothers not only encourage the Pinot noir and Chardonnay vines to put 

down long-lasting roots, thereby revealing the full complexity of their Bouzy 

vineyard sites, they also limit the effects of drought and avoid the use of 

herbicides. 

When work in the vineyard is complete, the two growers transition to 

winemakers to produce their range of Champagnes. This Extra-Brut Grand 

Cru 2013 label is blended from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It is 

fermented without malolactic fermentation like all the winery’s bottlings, 

allowing the wine to fully retain its freshness and minerality. It is then 

matured on lees in the estate’s chalk cellars, alongside – primarily – its 

collection of vintage Champagnes, before Extra-brut dosage (4 grams) is 

added. This Grand Cru displays a pretty, bright yellow-gold hue. Its very pure, 

intense nose offers up a fusion of red fruits, peach and apricot notes. The 

palate reveals a mouth-filling attack with abundant freshness and intense, 

persistent aromas. This is a vintage at its very best. Once again, Didier and 

Thierry Vesselle have crafted a hallmark Champagne, full of verve, which sits 

nicely within the range alongside the Hauts Chemins or vintage offerings 

fully equipped to withstand the test of time. The philosophy here is plain 

for all to see, and that is to treat the vineyard sites of Bouzy with respect. A 

gastronomic Champagne pairing with chicken and morel mushrooms. 

SELECTED BY 

WINTER WINTER 2023 • 2023 GILBERT • GILBERT & GAILLARD & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH - THE FRENCH EXPERTS EXPERTS ON WINE ON WINE 31 

31

LAURENT LEQUART (LEFT), WITH KÉVIN SIBILLE, EXPORT AND 

FRENCH TRADE MANAGER, WITH TWO INTERNS STUDYING FOR 

A WINE AND SPIRITS MARKETING DEGREE 

TASTING AT CHAMPAGNE LEQUART 

Lequart. “Before the winemaking process, we focus on the grape varieties, 

single-vineyard selections, soil typicity and then winemaking, going into 

granular detail to promote and showcase unique labels. You have to be wellequipped 

to succeed and need to devote some time to thinking about technical 

conditions, starting with planting and expertise in winemaking and packaging, 

whilst taking typicity into account. This is true of our Coeur de Cuvée, which 

sports a label in stone as a nod to its minerality”. Among the extensive range, 

a collection of outstanding mature vintages highlights the efforts poured into 

crafting Pinot Meunier, which shows incredible ageing potential and is highly 

appreciated. 

CHAMPAGNE COLLERY: RICHNESS AND HARMONY 

This superb Champagne house illustrates the beginnings of Champagne and 

how far it has come along its journey to fame. Jules-Anatole Collery created 

the brand in 1893. This pioneering winegrower was one of the first to conduct 

a secondary fermentation and to market bottled wines in an era when selling 

grapes was the norm. His innovative approach won him his first gold medal 

in Paris in 1904, then enabled him to grow his business and produce Grands 

Crus. “Our Champagnes are appetising, elegant, balanced and entirely unique”, 

comments managing director Romain Lévêcque. “Each one of them epitomises 

an iconic focus of Champagne winemaking. The Brut is the house’s exercise 

in style; the Extra Brut underscores a particular interpretation of the role of 


WINEMAKER DAVID CHABOCHE AND MANAGING DIRECTOR 

ROMAIN LÉVÊCQUE TASTE STILL WINES AT CHAMPAGNE 

COLLERY 

A TRIP OUT TO THE VINEYARDS TO CHECK FRUIT 

RIPENESS BY CELLAR MASTER JULIEN LEFÈVRE AND 

MANAGING DIRECTOR ROMAIN LÉVÊCQUE 

dosage; the Blanc de Blancs is a true icon; the Blanc de Noirs is still unfamiliar; 

and the vintage has to reflect the unique weather conditions of that particular 

year”. All of them are made entirely from fruit sourced in Champagne Grands 

Crus vineyards. The wines are made by village, the rationale being complementarity, 

and the aim is to create a USP where all the mineral and fruity characters 

mesh with each other. 

CHAMPAGNE CHOOSES TERROIR AS A FOCAL POINT 

This is a fundamental trend. As consumers move upmarket, Champagne is no 

longer viewed solely as a drink for celebrations but increasingly as a pleasurable 

experience that has a strong connection with food. Against this backdrop, the 

unique labels have become extremely popular as quality spirals upwards. As 

virtually stand-alone offerings, they display their specific features, site-expressiveness 

and vintage characters as with any fine wine, through a specific and 

unique alchemy. The marketplace, particularly overseas, shows demand for 

products that are different, impeccably crafted and have a history created by 

the winery and the winemaker who makes them. Consumers are increasingly 

open to these quality wines driven by strong typicity and personality. Although 

prices are often higher due to increased production costs, this particular style of 

Champagne adds value to the vineyard sites, the work involved, experience and 

skills, whilst at the same time providing pleasure. This is a great illustration of 

how a region can ‘reinvent itself’, to use a popular current expression. 


33

PROSECCO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG, 

A STORY OF HEROIC VITICULTURE 

AND ‘RIVE’ 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF 

THE ESTATES 

Forty-three certified areas are entitled to use the quality statement Rive in 

the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco region. This entitlement comes with 

specific restrictions, such as harvesting by hand and a cap on yields. We take 

a closer look at what the designation, which refers to the steep vineyard sites, 

implies for Prosecco wines. 

AT COLLALTO, AFTER CAREFUL HARVESTING, THE WINEMAKING PROCESS REQUIRES PERFECT ORCHESTRATION 

TO GUARANTEE THE EXCELLENCE OF THE END RESULT 


ITALY 

TERROIR 

THE RIVE DI ROLLE, BETWEEN 350 AND 450 METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL, GUARANTEES GOOD DIURNAL SHIFT WHICH IS PERFECT FOR ENHANCING THE 

FRESHNESS AND AROMAS OF THE VALDOBBIADENE SUPERIORE DOCG RIVE PRODUCED HERE BY ANDREOLA 

W 

hen referring to ‘Prosecco’, we tend to generalise, but there are substantial differences 

between the various appellations and types of Prosecco. The top of the quality 

pyramid for Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore Docg can today be defined by 

the term ‘Rive’, alluding to the steep hillsides that characterise the area. The Rive definition 

is, of course, reserved for sparkling wine, and that sparkling wine has to be produced 

exclusively from grapes within a limited area. Because of this uniqueness, Rive wines must 

comply with some serious restrictions: the grapes must be harvested entirely by hand (to 

keep the skins intact) and production cannot exceed 13 tonnes per hectare. On labels, the 

name ‘Prosecco’ must follow the wording ‘Conegliano Valdobbiadene’, while Rive must be 

accompanied by the name of the town/village (or hamlet) where the wine is grown, the term 

‘superiore’ and reference to the vintage. 

In the Conegliano Valdobbiadene area, 12 towns/villages and 31 districts belong to the Rive 

category: Valdobbiadene itself with the hamlets San Vito Bigolino, San Giovanni, San Pietro 

di Barbozza, Santo Stefano and Guia; 

- Vidor with the hamlets Vidor, Colbertaldo; 

- Miane, with the hamlets Miane, Combai, Campea, Premaor; 

- Farra di Soligo with the hamlets Farra di Soligo, Col San Martino, Soligo; 

- Follina with the hamlets Follina, Farrò; 

- Cison di Valmarino with the hamlets Cison di Valmarino, Rolle; 

- Pieve di Soligo with the hamlets Pieve di Soligo, Solighetto. 

- Refrontolo with the hamlet Refrontolo 

- San Pietro di Feletto with the hamlets San Pietro di Feletto, Rua di Feletto, Santa Maria di 

Feletto, San Michele di Feletto, Bagnolo; 


35

ITALY 

TERROIR 

THE ANDREOLA WINERY IN FARRA DI SOLIGO RESPECTFULLY VINIFIES EACH GRAPE 

VARIETY IN A BID TO ENHANCE ITS VARIETAL AND REGIONAL IDENTITY 

- Tarzo with the hamlets Tarzo, Resera, Arfanta, 

Corbanese; 

- Susegana with the hamlets Susegana, Colfosco, 

Collalto; 

- Vittorio Veneto with the hamlets Formeniga, 

Cozzuolo, Carpesica, Manzana. 

- Conegliano with the hamlets Scomigo, Collalbrigo 

- Costa, Ogliano. 

- San Vendemiano with the hamlet San Vendemiano; 

- Colle Umberto with the hamlet Colle Umberto. 

This classification is not quality-driven but rather 

identifies the different micro-zones that are 

distinguished by their soil and weather conditions, 

in addition to the gradient (up to 70%) which 

makes Rive vineyards unique in terms of exposure 

and hours of work required per hectare. This 

distinction is fundamental in order to enhance the 

identity of each vineyard site and make it clear that 

Prosecco from the Rive cannot be compared, either 

from an organoleptic perspective or market positioning, 

to Prosecco from the plains. 

To illustrate the soundness of a rationale that 

began with a variation of specifications in 2009 

(first vintage produced in 2010), we have selected a 

number of wineries that have made the Rive designation 

a flagship of their production. 

THE SPECIAL SYSTEM FOR TRANSPORTING BASKETS OF GRAPES AT HARVEST TIME, 

A SYMBOL OF HEROIC VITICULTURE IN THE RIVE DI ANDREOLA 

ANDREOLA 

Andreola is a company with unique defining 

features, and a firm rooting in the Valdobbiadene 

Conegliano DOCG. Over its 40-year history, it 

has managed to establish a collection of heritage 

vineyard blocks throughout the entire appellation 

area, thanks to the achievements of Nazareno 

Pola, perpetuated by his son Stefano. It boasts 110 

hectares of vineyards under direct management, 

subdivided into around 250 different parcels. The 

winery produces around 100 - 150 single-vineyard 

wines, the number of which varies from one year 

to the next. Andreola is a touchstone for those 

who want to better understand the area’s unique 

traits. The Rive enhance its diversity. Many years 

of vineyard work, winemaking and research have 


NAZARENO AND STEFANO POLA, 

THE FATHER AND SON AT THE 

HELM OF ANDREOLA 

enabled segments of individual villages or hamlets to be identified as not only offering 

a guarantee of superior quality from year to year, but also unique diversity that can be 

expressed through single-vineyard bottlings. 

After the present-day appellation was established in 2009, eligibility for the Rive designation 

emerged, in all respects embracing the philosophy of Andreola. The company was one 

of the first to believe in the classification, so much so that today it produces and bottles the 

largest number of sparkling wines labelled Rive in the entire appellation – these are Rive 

di Col San Martino, Rive di San Pietro di Feletto, Rive di Refrontolo, Rive di Soligo, Rive 

di Rolle. And the list could include Cartizze, the forerunner of Rive and first real Prosecco 

‘cru’. Despite this, the focus on enhancing these unique regional traits has not stopped, 

and ongoing research by winemaker Balliana Mirco has paved the way for Andreola to 

be eligible for two more sub-areas from the next vintage: Rive di Santo Stefano and Rive 

di Guia. These have been vinified separately, and the base wines are currently spending 

time in the cellar. To promote the clearest site expressiveness, there are no variations in 

vineyard management and winemaking techniques between the wines. The same care is 

taken in the vineyard and during harvesting and the same attention is paid to each of the 

wines in the winery. 

Andreola produces 5 “Rive” references: “26°I°” - Rive di Col San Martino, “XXIII BIO” - Rive 

di San Pietro di Feletto - “Ai Boschi, Col del Forno” - Rive di Refrontolo, “Mas de Fer” - Rive 

di Soligo and “Vigna Ochera” - Rive di Rolle, for a total of approx. 190,000 bottles. 

Andreola’s Valdobbiadene Docg Rive wines come from vineyards grown on steep, 

labour-intensive slopes, which instil litheness and softness, savouriness and creaminess 

on the palate, with intense, fruity aromas, elegance and freshness. The company’s target 

markets are the USA, UK, France, Malta, Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Czech Republic, 

Finland and Thailand. 


37

THE BALBINOT FAMILY - ERNESTO 

AND HIS WIFE SILVANA, WITH THEIR 

CHILDREN MARCO AND ANNA, WHO 

CONTINUE TO MANAGE THE COMPANY 

FOUNDED BY THEIR FATHER OSVALDO 

BALBINOT IN 1958 

LE MANZANE 

This winery is located in San Pietro di Feletto, in the heart of the Prosecco Superiore 

DOCG hills. The name Le Manzane originates from ‘Manzana’, one of the 43 

Rive permitted across the entire DOCG area. This family-run company is strongly 

rooted in the Treviso area where it has been a producer for almost 40 years. For 

three generations it has been perpetuating a family tradition showing a passion for 

wine, while respecting what nature provides and working with people who share 

the same ideals. Every stage of the production process is personally supervised by 

Ernesto together with his wife Silvana and their children Marco and Anna, who 

have decided to follow in their father’s footsteps. There are 15 full-time employees 

at the winery, a number that varies during the harvest and pruning periods. The 

vineyards cover approximately 82 hectares and are almost all located in the hilly 

area between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. In addition to Glera - the main 

grape variety for producing Prosecco Superiore - native varieties such as Verdiso, 

Manzoni Bianco, Bianchetta and Marzemino are grown. 

Rive, from the dialect ‘Riva’, refers to the steep hillsides in the historic Prosecco 

area, now a Unesco World Heritage Site. Prosecco Superiore Docg Rive conveys 

the quintessential features of the hills. The uniqueness of these areas is reflected 

not only on the boxes, with a map of the exact position of the vineyard, but also in 

the packaging – the hand-wrapped bottles are wrapped in tissue and numbered 

to indicate the uniqueness of this limited edition product: 


ITALY 

TERROIR 

- 20,600 bottles a year of Conegliano Prosecco 

Superiore Docg Rive di Formeniga Millesimato 

Extra Brut - Springo Blue 

- 20,500 bottles a year of Conegliano Prosecco 

Superiore Docg Rive di Manzana Millesimato Dry 

- Springo Bronze 

In addition to this are 5,500 bottles a year of 

Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze 

DOCG Springo Gold Dry, although not ‘Rive’. 

The grapes are vinified and the sparkling wine is 

made separately precisely to find and guarantee 

the maximum expression of their original Rive. 

In the vineyards, the company complies with the 

SQNPI protocol, Sistema di Qualità Nazionale di 

Produzione Integrata (National Quality System 

for Integrated Production), a voluntary certification 

scheme for all agricultural and food products 

using integrated production techniques. For the 

wines themselves, opposite styles were chosen for 

two of the Rive. Rive di Manzana best expresses 

the dry version, offering an explosion of varietal 

aromas of yellow-fleshed fruit such as apple and 

yellow peach, banana and wisteria flowers. Rive 

di Formeniga illustrates the dry version, the 

extra-brut. Here, notes of apple, lily of the valley, 

wisteria, vegetable notes of sage and thyme, cedar, 

orange and mineral hints of pumice immediately 

emerge in the glass. 

The wines are distributed throughout the country, 

including the islands. Exports account for 65% 

of the company’s turnover and Le Manzane is 

present in 36 countries. In addition to Italy, its 

wines are sold in Austria, Belgium, Belarus, 

Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, China, Czech Republic, 

Denmark, Estonia, France, Germany, Hungary, 

Japan, Lebanon, Luxembourg, Malta, Nigeria, 

the Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, San Marino, 

Romania, Russia, Serbia, Singapore, Slovakia, 

Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Ukraine and 

the United Kingdom. 

THE VIEW FROM ABOVE LE MANZANE’S HEADQUARTERS IN SAN PIETRO DI FELETTO IN THE 

PROVINCE OF TREVISO 

DE STEFANI’S HEADQUARTERS AND WINERY IN FOSSALTA DI PIAVE, 

IN THE PROVINCE OF VENICE 

DE STEFANI 

The De Stefani family comes from Refrontolo, 

a small village in the Veneto region of Italy, as 


39

ITALY 

TERROIR 

recorded in official documents dating back to 1624. Across the Conegliano Valdobbiadene 

hills, founder Valeriano De Stefani identified a unique terroir for producing great wines 

in 1866. 

His son Valeriano, the second generation, inspired by his fussy wife Angelina, started a 

tradition to which the De Stefani family has always adhered: total and uncompromising 

devotion to quality. The third-generation Tiziano, after graduating in 1958 in oenology and 

viticulture at Italy’s most prestigious oenological school in Conegliano, began producing 

wines in the Piave Valley, near Venice, between the Adriatic Sea and the Dolomite mountains. 

Today, the company’s headquarters and cellars are located here in Fossalta di Piave. 

Alessandro De Stefani, the fourth generation, also graduated in oenology and viticulture 

from the same school and today, together with his wife Chiara, produces excellent wines. 

Their main guiding principles are to show the utmost respect for their old vines planted 

to a very high density and the indigenous grape varieties, in order to make wines that can 

convey emotions decades after they were crafted. 

The Rive vineyard is the jewel in the crown of Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Docg. 

The Rive are the true ‘cru’ of a given region and its rich biodiversity. They are the highest 

quality terroir expression of the Prosecco hills. Some 35,000 bottles of De Stefani’s Rive 

are produced annually. 

THE DE STEFANI FAMILY, ORIGINALLY FROM REFRONTOLO, WHERE IN 1866, FOUNDER VALERIANO DE STEFANI 

IDENTIFIED A UNIQUE TERROIR FOR PRODUCING GREAT WINES 


ITALY 

TERROIR 

The Prosecco displays an elegant, fresh style characterised by very low residual 

sugar, with fruity, pear aromas, good flavourful characters, freshness and 

minerality. Despite being a limited edition bottling, De Stefani’s Rive has global 

distribution. 

CONTE COLLALTO 

Rive, for Conte Collalto, means Isabella Rive Di Collalto Charmat Lungo Brut. This 

Martinotti method sparkling wine is the high-end offering by Collalto cellars. 

The grapes are grown in the Rive di Collalto area and produce a very long Charmat-based 

wine, due to its lengthy stay on the lees for 9 to 10 months. Only 6,400 

bottles are produced, and they are strictly numbered. 

The grapes used for ‘Isabella’ come from just one hectare of land: the famous Rive, 

thus named because they are set at the top of Collalto hill. There is a lush green 

forest all around, which also protects the vines climatically. It was on this very hill, 

one thousand years ago in 958, that the ancestors of Princess Isabella Collalto de 

Croÿ settled. Since 2007, she has been at the helm of the namesake winery. 

THE 1989 MARRIAGE OF ISABELLA DI COLLALTO TO PRINCE GUILLAUME DE CROŸ LATER 

SAW THE BIRTH OF THEIR BELOVED CHILDREN EMMANUEL AND VIOLETTE 


41

ITALY 

TERROIR 

ISABELLA COLLALTO WAS BORN IN FRANKFURT AM MAIN ON 

26 APRIL 1960, AND IS THE ELDEST DAUGHTER OF PRINCE 

MANFREDO DI COLLALTO AND PRINCESS TRINIDAD CASTILLO 

DE JURA REAL 

Isabella is in fact a tribute to the princess and 

also to her family who, for more than 1,000 years, 

have preserved the rich natural heritage and 

beauty of the land overlooking the Prosecco hills. 

Now, as then, the Collalto family presides over 

and preserves these hills with the same love and 

attention for their precious biodiversity. Isabella 

is a wine that tells a story of excellence, care and 

attention. 

After spending a long time on the lees, the brut is 

bottled at the end of August and left in the bottle to 

rest for a further two months to allow the wine to 

complete its maturation. The result is an elegant, 

understated sparkling wine, creamy on the palate, 

with fresh floral aromas and mineral sensations. It 

is complex and delicate, incisive but never over the 

top, pairing effortlessly with fish dishes but also 

with traditional Veneto cuisine. In addition to the 

Italian market, the wines are shipped to northern 

European countries such as Denmark, the Czech 

Republic, Slovakia and Lithuania, but also East, to 

markets such as Bulgaria and Romania. 

SUI NUI SPUMANTI 

SUI NUI PRODUCES QUALITY WINES FROM HAND-SELECTED GRAPES USING CUTTING- 

EDGE TECHNIQUES, WHILE RESPECTING THE ENVIRONMENT AND TRADITION 

The Sui Nui winery is in Valdobbiadene, the heart 

of the Prosecco Docg, where the steep vineyards are 

suited to growing Glera using virtuous techniques. 

This is a rare expression of heroic viticulture, and 

it is where the Bressan family has perpetuated its 

business for four generations with passion and dedication. 

However, it was only six years ago that the 

turning point came with the official birth of the Sui 

Nui farm. The company brand is a local name that 

means ‘new soils’, i.e. areas made available after an 

ancient retreat of the Piave river. 

Today, the company is run by the three brothers, 

Marcello, Ezio and Davide, who draw on their experience 

to pursue their ideals but never forget their 

passion for their work and the spirit that drives 

them to constantly improve and reinvent themselves. 

Elegance and distinction characterise Sui 

Nui’s approach to its wines, in particular the most 

iconic expression of heroic vine-growing, namely 

the Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Docg Rive 


FOUR GENERATIONS OF THE 

BRESSAN FAMILY HAVE CALLED 

THE REGION HOME AND SUI NUI, 

ESTABLISHED JUST A FEW YEARS 

AGO, IS NOW LED BY BROTHERS 

MARCELLO, EZIO AND DAVIDE 

Di Rolle Extra Brut. This white sparkling wine has energetic and persistent beading 

which in the Extra Brut version has a creamy and elegant mousse. The bouquet is 

intense, with hints of hawthorn blossom and citrus fruits, apple and peach. On the 

well-defined palate, it stands out for its balanced savouriness and fruity suggestions. 

The Rive appellation allows for greater definition of regional identity, where the more 

historic areas are recognised as a fundamental value in the production of increasingly 

high quality Prosecco Valdobbiadene. The production of ‘Rive di Rolle’ amounts 

to approximately 10,000 bottles, about half of which are sold in the Italian market 

and the other 50% in the European market (Germany, Estonia, Hungary, Poland and 

Slovakia). 

At a time of strong growth in Prosecco production, being able to use a term such 

as ‘Rive’, which is capable of specifying the precise provenance of the grapes and 

justifying higher production costs, as well as a higher market positioning, is fundamental. 

Clearly, vineyards where Rive-classified wines can be produced cannot be 

compared to those on the valley floor, where the yields are higher and mechanisation 

is easier. The hope is that the term Rive will be increasingly identified by consumers 

as a synonym for superior quality and specific regional identity. 


43

FROM CÔTES DU RHÔNE TO WHERE GOATS 

DO ROAM: EXPLORING THE RHÔNE STYLE 

WINES OF SOUTH AFRICA 

BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU 

DIPWSET 


THE ESTATES 

Some say Shiraz, some say Syrah. That is the catchy tagline that the Shiraz 

Association of South Africa has adopted to illustrate how the styles produced 

here oscillate between the Old and the New World. Some wine-producing 

countries might even find themselves glancing enviously at the southern tip of 

Africa, where diverse award-winning Rhône-style wines are proudly catapulted 

into the world from its continental, coastal, and Mediterranean climates. 

BABYLONSTOREN ON THE SLOPES OF THE SIMONSBERG 


SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

FAIRVIEW HARVEST 

T 

he inspiration drawn from France’s northern and southern Rhône regions is evident 

in the landscapes that, in a way, mirror each other. South Africa’s vignerons, in some 

instances, find common ground with the Rhône, courtesy of amphitheatre-like terroirs 

that retain heat, ensuring the ripening of Shiraz and its accessory, Grenache, with 

that sought-after berry flamboyance. A wide range of terroirs, including rolling hills, 

plateaus, and river valleys, make this connection palpable. Winemakers, whose wines 

underwent the discerning palate of the Gilbert & Gaillard tasting panel, often recount 

how their time in the Rhône gave them invaluable lessons on approaching these grape 

varieties in their homeland. 

While the magic of the Rhône lies in its steep, south- and southeast-facing slopes in the 

north, the South African landscape is certainly more forgiving with timid gradients in 

comparison. Still, there is something to be said about a similar essence of the southern 

Rhone and the Cape Winelands. They share a Mediterranean climate that produces wines 

with a delicate balance between fruitiness and acidity. Despite their weight, these vibrant 

and lively wines are the style South African wineries have embraced, without mimicking 

these quintessentially Rhône wines. 

As many Rhône-style wines in South Africa are based on Shiraz, the art lies in balancing 

its generous expressions of dark fruit and spice with a more savoury tone, preventing 

the wine from overwhelming the palate. Various soil types are crucial in determining 

the ripening period, absorbing, or reflecting sunlight—an aspect mirrored in South 

Africa. And, while the Rhône faces challenges (and benefits) from the mistral wind, 

the Cape Winelands must brace their vineyards against a similar power. As ruthless as 

the onslaught of the Cape’s south-easterly wind, aka Cape Doctor, can be, this natural 

frenemy also cools and aerates the canopies in the peak of summer. 


45

ANTHONY DE JAGER, WINEMAKER 

AT FAIRVIEW, SPENDING TIME IN 

THE VINEYARDS 

Much like Shiraz, Grenache is a great attribute to the South African winelands - 

drought-resistant with a pleasant alcohol sweetness that adds length and lush red 

fruit. As in the Rhône, Syrah often provides structure and complexity, while Mourvèdre, 

despite its proneness to reductivity, adds a savoury gloss to balance the 

opulence of Shiraz and Grenache. Cinsaut’s big berries contribute a fleshy mid-palate 

for many Rhône-inspired blends, offering the ensemble a floral quality and 

rich texture. Turning to white wines, South Africa flaunts its ability to work with 

Marsanne, characterized by delightful pear and quince tones, while Roussanne, on 

the other hand, leans more toward stone fruit flavours, adding a creamy complexity 

to blends. And don’t forget Viognier’s floral touch! 

THE FAIRVIEW G.O.A.T. - 

GRACIOUS, ORIGINAL, ADVENTUROUS, TENACIOUS 

In exploring the world of Rhône-style wines in South Africa, we find a convergence 

of terroirs, winemaking prowess, and an authentic expression of the land that finds 

its way to infamous wine labels. 

The inception of Fairview’s tongue-in-cheek wine range, “Goats Do Roam,” was 

nothing short of audacious. Unwelcomed at first, perhaps for apparent reasons, but 

these witty labels of Fairview helped the nation carve a distinct space for itself on the 

global wine stage. Fairview is due to celebrate its 50th anniversary since bottling its 

first wine in 1974–a milestone marked by Shiraz. 



GRAPE 

Anthony De Jager, chief winemaker at Fairview, emphasizes the importance of 

understanding history in appreciating the winery’s trajectory. 

“It started with Cyril Back, a staunch Shiraz lover whose enthusiasm was infectious, 

and he recognized the variety as a flagship grape for the Paarl region.” 

In Fairview’s early days, wine was crafted in open concrete fermenters and French 

oak barrels were only introduced 15 years later. And although these wines were hard 

to drink in their youth, De Jager reflects on recently enjoying one of those original 

wines, marvelling at its ageing potential. Their innovation extends beyond Shiraz in 

the Rhône sphere. They were the first to bring Viognier into the country, planting their 

first block in Paarl. De Jager made their inaugural 1997 Viognier that won international 

acclaim, marking the beginning of Fairview’s reputation as a pioneering force 

for Rhône varieties including the first Mourvèdre and contributing to the introduction 

of Roussanne and Marsanne. 

“Our Fairview Cyril Back 2020 received five stars in the Diners Club Platters Wine 

Guide 2024. It was also named wine of the year in the Shiraz/Syrah category. Other 

five-star achievers include the Fairview Primo Pinotage 2021, the Fairview Beryl Black 

2022 and Fairview Caldera 2021, a Grenache-based Southern Rhône-style that scored 

92 points from Gilbert & Gaillard.” 

In 1998 came the wine that caused a stir–the infamous Goats Do Roam (scoring 87/100 

alongside its rosé and white counterpart scoring 88) - a resourceful blend of Shiraz, 

Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut, and other Rhône varieties. In the quest for Grenache, 

these mavericks stumbled upon old vines in Piekenierskloof, sought after to this day. 

Goats Do Roam was a historical milestone, launching a Rhône-style wine in South 

Africa before the widespread popularity of Bordeaux stars, Cabernet Sauvignon and 

Merlot. The launch in the US sparked controversy, with claims that the name sounded 

HARVEST TIME AT FAIRVIEW 


47


GRAPE 

CELLAR MASTER CHARL COETZEE AND WINEMAKER KLAAS STOFBERG 

TASTING TOGETHER 

too much like “Rhône” versus “Roam.” So, Fairview 

orchestrated a march to the French embassy defending 

their honour, presenting the ambassador with a 

magnum and goat manure for his lawn. The uproar, 

captured in video footage that made its way to the 

press and CNN, became a legendary tale in the 

annals of South African wine. 

“We receive 250,000 visitors annually, so the tasting 

room and restaurant are the perfect places to test 

drive small experiments. To see how guests react to 

these wines gives us plenty of clues, and the tasting 

room staff also loves dishing up a few surprises for 

a captivated crowd.” 

With a sense of adventure running in the company, 

they don’t mind the wind in their hair. 

“The South Easter drives us crazy at times, but the 

movement of the canes also keeps the vines healthy, 

letting the sun into the fruit zone and keeping the 

humidity under control.” 

They don’t make all their accomplishments public, 

but it is worth noting their next-door Spice Route 

farm is 100% organic with 670 solar panels allowing 

them to run entirely off the grid if there is sunshine. 

Dedicated to exceptional Swartland fruit, the Spice 

Route Chakalaka 2021 and Limited Edition Red 

Blend 2022 scored 90 points, respectively, from 

Gilbert & Gaillard. 

BABYLONSTOREN, FARM TO FORK 

AND BACK TO THE FARM 

THIS IS THE 18 TH CENTURY MANOR HOUSE AT BABYLONSTOREN WITH 

THE WORKING DUCKS 

Babylonstoren is situated on the Simondium road 

outside Paarl and has unfolded as a true phenomenon. 

The circle of life is also evident in how they 

take from the earth and give back two-fold, an ethos 

that permeates their vegetable and fruit farming, 

restaurants, and wine production. The spotlight is 

on the distinctive Babel wine (53% Shiraz, 19% Pinotage, 

8% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, 5% Malbec, 3% 

Petit Verdot, 3% Mourvèdre, 2% Grenache Noir, and 

1% Marselan 2022) that scored 90 points, along with 

their Viognier 2023. 

Winemaker Klaas Stoffberg, drawing from experiences 

in Cornas and St Joseph in the Rhône, 

reflects on Babylonstoren’s unique position. 


WINEMAKER KLAAS STOFFBERG AND ASSISTANT WINEMAKER MARINA 

COETZEE ASSESS WINE PRODUCED IN EGG-SHAPED, NOMBLOT VESSELS 

THE IMPRESSIVE TWO-STORY ENTRY INTO THE WINE MUSEUM 

TERRACOTTA CLAY POTS CALLED AMPHORA 

“Some similarities are uncanny. We have nicknamed the South Easter wind ‘The 

Franschhoek Mistral’, Stoffberg jests,” so with elevations ranging from 150m to 650m 

above sea level we are no stranger to wind. 

In their pursuit of excellence, they work with Romanée Conti consultant, François 

Millet. 

“Some practices really put Babylonstoren apart, like harvesting Shiraz in six tranches 

and fermenting components in diverse vessels. This gives us the opportunity and 

scope of 28 different Shiraz components, contributing to a wine puzzle that navigates 

vintage variations.” 

A comprehensive cellar tour earned them the Best Innovative Wine Tourism Experience 

in the country by the Best of Wine Tourism Awards, starting above ground and 

down through seven platforms until reaching their underground tunnel, providing 

insight into their winemaking ingenuity along the way. 

The farm’s control over the entire value chain gives them a strategic advantage, facilitating 

a focus on online sales by constructing a new warehouse. Their commitment 

to sustainability also defines Babylonstoren’s identity, from vegan-friendly wines to 

water-savvy practices. 

Stoffberg: “For everything we take, we put something back. Nothing is wasted.” 


49

STANDER MAASS, WINEMAKER AT ANURA VINEYARDS 

ANURA VINEYARDS IS OWNED AND RUN BY TYMAN, JENNY AND 

LANCE BOUMA 

ANURA – ALWAYS BREWING UP SOMETHING DELICIOUS 

Close to Babylonstoren, lies Anura Vineyards, emerging as a compelling force on the 

Simonsberg Road. From fermenting grapes to brewing beer and making cheese, and 

revered for their stately events venue, Anura is another tourism gem. 

Situated against Simonsberg-Paarl, the vineyards benefit from ripening conditions like 

the Rhône Valley and according to winemaker, Stander Maass, they too don’t escape 

strong winds. 

Maass: “There is great focus on Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre and both the wind and 

the soil play a crucial role in tempering sunny days, preventing fungus and controlling 

yields. All these factors aid smaller berries that contribute to flavourful wines with a 

distinct structure.” 

He emphasises the comprehensive understanding from berry ripening to bottling. 

The winery’s success in the market is notable, with their wines consistently over-delivering 

in price. Anura Shiraz is among the top 10 selling products at a medium price point 

in South Africa and their commitment to environmental stewardship is reinforced by a 

decade-long certification as an IPW (Integrated Production of Wine) farm and winery. 

WILDEBERG - A FRANSCHHOEK GEM 

Wildeberg is a 144-hectare wine farm nestled 350 meters above sea level at the base of 

the Franschhoek mountains. Acquired by the international wine company Boutinot UK 



GRAPE 

in 2016, the farm boasts a rich history dating back to pre-European times when the 

Khoi-Khoi traversed the area seasonally with their flocks. The Catspad, one of the first 

passes to the interior, was constructed along the old game route over the Franschhoek 

Mountains, adding to the historical tapestry of the region. 

Wildeberg also benefits from a Mediterranean climate with wet winters and dry 

summers, creating ideal conditions for cultivating Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre. 

And of course, the farm’s rocky and complex soil composition, including Katspruit, 

Kroonstad, Houwhoek, Cartref, Clovelly, and Tukulu. 

Assistant winemaker Abigail Buckenham, who joined the team this year, is excited 

about the eminent 2024 harvest and the consistent quality produced here. Buckenham 

shares how these six soil types help carve personality and complexity into their wines, 

coupled with the changing terrain and three Syrah clones at their disposal. The location, 

against the mountain, aligns to develop vineyards that preserve natural biodiversity 

for conservation, she adds. 

“We definitely aim for a more savoury, sometimes austere style with a herbaceous 

tone, avoiding an overly fruit-forward profile and I would say our flagship Wildeberg 

Red exemplifies this winemaking philosophy. Comprising 90% Syrah and 10% 

WILDEBERG RECEIVED THE WINERY OF THE YEAR AWARD BACK-TO-BACK, AS BESTOWED 

BY WINEMAG.CO.ZA. RYNO BOOYSEN AND JD ROSSOUW, WINEMAKERS, AND ABIGAIL 

BUCKENHAM, ASSISTANT WINEMAKER, POSE PROUDLY WITH THE PRESTIGIOUS TROPHY 


51

TEAM WILDEBERG IS PROUD 

OF THEIR CONSISTANT 

ACHIEVEMENTS 

Cabernet Franc from Franschhoek, this wine reflects finesse with spice, fine tannins, 

herbaceous notes, and a touch of lavender, rosemary, blackcurrant, and cinnamon.” 

It was the Coterie Range and the Grenache Blanc that stole the limelight, the 2022 

scoring 92/100 and the 2021 vintage, 91 points. 

The Grenache Syrah, also part of the Coterie Range, distinguishes itself with a more 

muscular and voluptuous body, showcasing 67% Grenache Noir and 33% Syrah. 

Sourcing Grenache from Paarl and Syrah from Wildeberg itself, this wine embodies 

a refined process emphasizing red and blue fruit, focusing on each barrel’s attributes 

while staying true to the vineyard and style. 

They call it “lazy winemaking” – or rather a hands-off approach that preserves the 

unique attributes derived from the vineyards. The microclimate and the howling wind 

in Franschhoek contribute to the distinct style, aligning with the belief that the true 

uniqueness of wine lies in its origin. 

SARONSBERG - EMBRACED BY MOUNTAINS 

Let’s go full circle and applaud this winery for its consistent acclaim – Gilbert & 

Gaillard scoring their 2021 Full Circle 93/100 points. Nestled in Tulbagh, Saronsberg 

stands apart, surrounded by the majestic mountains of the upper Breede River Valley. 

The recent transition in leadership, with Daniela Jansen stepping into the shoes of 

the previous winemaker, Dewald Heyns, after four years as his assistant, marks a 



GRAPE 

new era for Saronsberg. Jansen, well-travelled and 

enthusiastic about the future, brings a deep understanding 

of the winery’s people and vineyards. 

Saronsberg strategically focuses on Rhône varieties, 

leveraging the perfect climate for ripening 

these grapes. While Shiraz has been their flagship, 

the winery is not content to be a one-trick pony. 

Bordeaux-inspired blends also receive attention, 

recognizing the fickleness of consumer palates and 

preferences. The uniqueness of Saronsberg lies in 

its position and interpretation of a Mediterranean 

climate with vines predominantly planted on clay 

and shale. The cool afternoon breezes mitigate the 

heat, allowing for the development of juicy, red fruit 

from vines in clay soils, balanced with vineyards 

anchored in shale producing fruit with more depth 

and complexity. 

The winery boasts two adjacent farms, spanning 

4 km from the slopes of the mountains to the 

valleys. Rhône varieties such as Shiraz, Grenache, 

Mourvèdre, Viognier, and Roussanne, along with 

a touch of Marsanne, contribute to Saronsberg’s 

beloved Full Circle. The judicious use of oak has 

become its hallmark, resulting in profound fruit 

expression, worthy of its accolades in the new 2024 

Diners Club Platter’s Wine Guide. Here, both the 

Saronsberg Full Circle 2021 and Saronsberg Shiraz 

2021 scored 94 points with three more wines scoring 

90+. And as an ode to the Rhône, their Saronsberg 

Roussanne 2021 received 5 stars and the title of Wine 

of the Year in its category. Saronsberg acknowledges 

its remote location and the unique visitor demographic 

it attracts. Visitors, often drawn by their 

familiarity with Saronsberg wines or a desire to 

discover something new, frequently stay in the 

on-site cottages to fully immerse themselves in the 

countryside experience. 

AT SARONSBERG, HARVESTING TAKES PLACE SURROUNDED 

BY MOUNTAINS 

SARONSBERG - WHERE VISITORS ESCAPE THE HUSTLE AND BUSTLE OF THE CITY 

In conclusion, the South African wine industry 

stands as a testament to innovation, skilfully 

weaving together the restraint of Old World styles 

with the vibrancy of the New World. With ingenious 

blends paying homage to the inspiration drawn 

from the Rhône, the producers take pride in crafting 

wines that maintain an unmistakable South African 

authenticity. 


53

INDULGE IN A WINE TASTING 

‘SAFARI’ IN GREECE 

BY MARIA NETSIKA 


THE ESTATES, AUTHOR’S ARCHIVES 

The wines of Greece offer an exciting and exceptional alternative for 

those willing to explore beyond the ordinary. Think outside your wine 

box and follow us on a wine tasting safari in Greece! 

NEMEA, THE LARGEST AND MOST FAMOUS WINE REGION IN GREECE 


GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

THE VINEYARDS OF ZITSA FAN OUT OVER SLOPES FACING THE IONIAN SEA 

ZITSA, A TRADITION OF SPARKLING WINE 

We begin our journey to the Greek wine regions in Zitsa, in the region of Epirus 

in western Greece. Some two centuries or so ago, Lord Byron and his travelling 

companion John Hobhouse spent a weekend at the monastery of Prophet Elias in 

Zitsa. The quirky poet found the natural surroundings so enchanting that he wrote a 

long poem in which he mentions the vineyards of Zitsa. The setting is mountainous, 

with vineyard-clad slopes that enjoy views of the Ionian Sea. The sight is similar 

today. 

Here, the altitude reaches 650 to 700 metres above sea level. The vineyards of Zitsa 

fan out over slopes facing the Ionian Sea. The limestone origin of the soils helps to 

ensure good drainage and to maintain relatively high temperatures, an important 

aspect for these cold, mountainous areas. The continental climate with low average 

temperatures helps to maintain the high acidity and aromas of Debina, which is the 

dominant grape in the area, covering about 95% of the vineyards. It produces still 

and sparkling P.D.O. Zitsa wines. It is no coincidence that Zitsa is one of only three 

regions in Greece (the other two being Amyndeon and Rhodes) that have a tradition 

of sparkling wine production. Apart from Debina, the red Vlachiko and Bekari, are 

grown exclusively in this wine region. 


55

GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

A visit to Zoinos Wines offers unique insight into 

the region. The story of Zoinos began in 1954, with 

the creation of the first co-operative in the country 

on the initiative of vine growers. Today, in their 

new winery/distillery you can see how co-operative 

responsibility is combined with modern expertise. 

Photographs, texts and objects recount the viticultural 

and wine history of the region. And a tasting 

of their products give us a glimpse of today and a 

vision of tomorrow’s wines. 

NAOUSSA, SCALING THE HEIGHTS 

TASTING WINES AND SPIRITS AT ZOINOS WINES GIVES YOU A GLIMPSE OF TODAY AND A 

VISION OF TOMORROW’S WINES 

NAOUSSA’S VINEYARDS ARE LOCATED ON THE SOUTH-EASTERN SLOPES OF MOUNT 

VERMIO 

The next stop is Naoussa, a picturesque town in 

the green hinterland of Central Macedonia with a 

famous carnival, and of course a well-known wine 

region and deep red, robust wines. 

Naoussa’s vineyards are situated on the south-eastern 

slopes of Mount Vermio, in a blessed location. 

Their altitude starts at 150 metres and climbs to 

350 metres. The majority of the soils are clay with 

or without calcium carbonate. Sheltered from the 

cold northern winds, they benefit from the rays of 

the midday sun. 

The storied P.D.O. Naoussa wine is made exclusively 

from Xinomavro. This fine red grape is well 

adapted to continental climates and grown in 

more areas than any other variety in Greece. Its 

dominance extends from the slopes of the mountains 

of Central Macedonia to Pindos. Xinomavro 

in Naoussa reaches perfect ripeness effortlessly. It 

shows remarkable potential in fermentation and 

ageing aromas. It is favoured by the ecosystem. 

Vaeni Naoussa, founded in 1984, is one of the largest 

cooperatives in Greece and controls almost 50% of 

Naoussa’s area under vine. It took its name from 

the barrels used in bygone days to press the grapes 

under foot (vaeni). As for the most authentic expression 

of Naoussa wines, the people of Vaeni believe 

that “although Naoussa has associated its name 

with age-worthy wines, it has been proven that in 

soils of medium to light mechanical composition, 

Xinomavro can yield fresh wines with a strong 

fruity character and a lot of finesse. In heavy soils, 

on the other hand, it approaches higher levels of 


THE FAMOUS P.D.O. NAOUSSA 

WINE IS MADE EXCLUSIVELY 

FROM XINOMAVRO 

THE IRRESISTIBLE DIONYSIAN 

CHARM HIDDEN AMIDST THE 

SLOPES OF PANGEON DRIVES US 

TO ITS WONDERFUL WINERIES 

phenolic maturity. When these soils also have calcium carbonate, they can produce 

rich, deep wines with unique aromatic potential, suitable for lengthy ageing.” 

PANGEON MOUNTAIN, A GOLD MINE 

Our journey continues in Eastern Macedonia, in the shadow of the majestic Pangeon 

Mountain, the Golden Mountain, a source of gold and silver in Antiquity and the 

place where Dionysus was brought up and worshipped according to Greek mythology. 

Today, on its south-eastern fringes, the vines receive cool breezes off the Strymonikos 

Gulf while the mountain protects them from the cold northerly winds. The 

soil is stony, arid and well drained, offering felicitous conditions for winemakers 

in the area who have planted international grapes and Greek varieties. The wines 

produced are marketed as P.G.I. Pangeon. 

The irresistible Dionysian charm hidden on the slopes of Pangeon drives us to its 

wonderful wineries. The Karaberidis family has been involved in viticulture for 

three generations. Since 2004 they have been making wine from the Greek varieties 

Assyriko, Alexandria and Agiorgitiko, and the French cultivars Cabernet Sauvignon, 

Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc which they grow 

in their 12-hectare vineyard that starts at the foot of the mountain and climbs up the 

slopes to an elevation of 300 m. Their winery is called Charismatiki Wines. 


57

GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

AEGIALIA SLOPES, 

CHARISMA AND VARIETY 

AEGIALIA IS A CHARISMATIC AND DIVERSE WINE REGION 

MEGA SPILEO ESTATE HAS AN EXTRAORDINARY MICROCLIMATE AND UNIQUE TERROIR 

PERCHED ON VERTIGINOUS SLOPES OVERLOOKING VOURAIKOS GORGE 

The road leads us to the Northern Peloponnese. We 

start the pleasant adventure that turns out to be a 

visit to the vineyards... and that’s because Aegialia, 

on the slopes of Panachaiko Mountain and Chelmos, 

is an area with an exceptional natural landscape 

and stunning sea views. The slopes start from the 

rolling hills above the Corinthian Gulf and reach the 

outskirts of Kalavryta. The rivers that cross it form 

beautiful gorges, such as that of Vouraikos, which 

climbs along the serrated railway from Diakofto to 

Kalavryta. 

Among other things, Aegialia is a charismatic 

and diverse wine region. Its vineyards, spread 

over slopes at an altitude ranging from 300 to 

900 meters, are among the most beautiful in the 

world from a soil and climate point of view. On the 

northern hills that enjoy cool air currents, and in 

vineyards with lower yields per hectare than the 

rest of the region, P.G.I. wines are produced. The 

whites show a distinctive style and the rich reds 

have character that evolves beautifully over time. 

Cavino has been active in this region since 1958. 

Today, it is one of the largest Greek wine exporters. 

It produces a very wide range of products at 

its state-of-the-art winery located on the coastal 

road. In 1999, Cavino took over the vineyard at the 

Monastery of the Mega Spileo, covering 20 ha on the 

plateau of Agios Nikolaos in mountainous Aegialia. 

The vineyard was restored, the Metochi winery was 

renovated and the single vineyard wines proudly 

bear the name Mega Spileo Estate. The Greek 

varieties Mavrodafni, Mavro Kalavritino, Malagousia, 

Assyrtiko and Lagorthi sit alongside Syrah, 

Cabernet Sauvignon and many other grape varieties 

grown organically in the estate’s four vineyards. The 

sunny Mediterranean climate, combined with the 

expert craftsmanship of the winemakers and the 

successful blending of indigenous and international 

varieties, result in wines of distinct character that 

have earned the respect of experts and captured the 

hearts of wine lovers worldwide. It is worth noting 

that during the 2023 vintage, for the first time, the 

estate fermented Assyrtiko and Mavrodafni in the 


GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

historic winery’s open stone tanks, which have recently been renovated. 

Since September 2023, the Estate has thrown open its doors to wine lovers, excursionists 

and ordinary travellers, offering hospitality, wine tours and tasting programmes - an 

unforgettable experience of wine culture in an environment of rare natural beauty. 

NEMEA AND ITS MYRIAD WINE STYLES 

We continue our journey in the northern Peloponnese. Driving East we leave Corinth 

behind us and head straight to Nemea, the largest and most famous wine region in 

Greece. The beauty of the landscape is stunning, with its vineyards, olive groves and 

cypress trees. Whichever window you open onto the countryside of Nemea you meet 

with the tantalisingly simple and disarming beauty of its colours and aromas. 

Nemea’s vineyard acreage is the most extensive in Greece, covering a total of 16 communities. 

The vines grow on the plain up to the foothills of Mount Kyllinios, from 260 to 

MEGA SPILEO WELCOMES WINE LOVERS, EXCURSIONISTS AND ORDINARY TRAVELLERS 


59

GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

DIFFERENT ALTITUDES, SOILS AND MICROCLIMATES MAKE UP A PUZZLE OF COMPLEXITY 

IN NEMEA THAT AUTOMATICALLY TRANSLATES INTO MYRIAD WINE STYLES 

ANTONIS PAPANTONIS OF THE NAMESAKE WINERY 

800 meters above sea level, covering approximately 

3,000 ha. The dominant grape is Agiorgitiko. 

The beautiful, charismatic deep purple grape 

with its velvety skin is highly sought after. Here, it 

thrives and excels, with the cool north winds and 

low temperatures that usually prevail helping it to 

ripen smoothly. And since 1971, Nemea wine, one of 

the country’s most classic reds, entered the P.D.O. 

category. 

Due to their size and configuration, Nemea’s 

vineyards are obviously extremely heterogeneous. 

Different altitudes, soils and microclimates make 

up a puzzle of complexity that automatically translates 

into myriad wine styles. The number of wineries 

is constantly increasing, as the area is attracting 

interest from more and more winemakers, many of 

whom are active in other areas. It is no exaggeration 

to say that Nemea has managed to gather the cream 

of Greek wine production, resulting in an ever-increasing 

number of quality labels and recognition 

of the Nemea and Agiorgitiko brands in the Greek 

and international markets. 

We start our Nemea itinerary with a visit to 

Papaioannou Estate. The recently modernized 

family winery is located on the main road in the 

village of Palaia Nemea. The founder of the winery, 

Thanasis Papaioannou, was one of the great figures 

of the Greek wine industry, pioneering wine in the 

country. Papaioannou Estate Nemea, the label that 

he first released in 1988, was destined to introduce 

Nemea and Agiorgitiko to every Greek wine lover, 

changing once and for all the fate of the country’s 

most important P.D.O. With in-depth knowledge of 

vineyards and perseverance in quality, he established 

a privately owned vineyard farmed organically 

over 60 ha in various parts of the area so that each 

variety could find the ecosystem perfectly suited to 

it. The wide dispersion of the vineyards and differences 

in vine ages lead to a multi-purpose result 

and emblematic labels for the history of Greek wine. 

Driving along, the Nemea Wine Co-operative looms 

in the distance. Its size is impressive. And if you 

are wondering, yes, it is the largest in the region, 

fermenting all the grapes of its members – who 

produce 90% of the local crop – which are not sent 

to private wineries. The co-operative was founded in 


ANTONIS PAPANTONIS 

1937 and originally had 70 members. In 1959, in collaboration with the Wine Institute, it 

carried out the first experimental bottling of Agiorgitiko. Today, after 86 years of operation 

and in modern facilities, it has more than 400 members and the capacity to ferment 

10,000 tons of grapes annually, making it one of the largest producers nationwide. 

Our last stop in Nemea is the small modern Papantonis Winery in the town of Argos, 

on the road to the Ancient Theatre. Charming and neat, it reflects the care that Antonis 

Papantonis lavishes on his wines, which are produced from privately owned vineyards in 

Maladreni. The vineyards extend over slopes with an average altitude of 320 meters, and 

clay-sandy soils with drainage properties that allow the grapes to ripen slowly. In 1979, 

Antonis Papantonis bought these vineyards, feeling that nature, vine growing and wine 

production could fulfil him more than life in the big city. Today, he continues to take 

the same attitude to life and creation, focusing his activity on only two Greek varieties 

(Agiorgitiko, Roditis) and one international cultivar (Chardonnay) and staying true to the 

meaning of the names of his labels: red Miden Agan, a P.D.O Nemea meaning ‘nothing 

in excess’, and white Metron Ariston, meaning that avoiding extremes and excesses is 

the best attitude. We tasted them, served with traditional local delicacies, as the winery 

welcomes visitors every day. 

MESSINIA, THE FAVOURABLE INFLUENCE OF THE IONIAN SEA 

Our journey to the wine-focused Peloponnese continues on the West coast, in Messinia. 

Here, the vineyards are located on highlands, exposed to the favourable influence of 

the Ionian Sea, on calcareous soils, with smaller water reserves. The most remarkable 


61

WINEMAKER DIMITRIS 

PANAGIOTOPOULOS 

vineyard area is Trifyllia. As Dimitris Panagiotopoulos from Panagiotopoulos Wines 

recounts: “The relatively low altitude, the fertile soil, the mild climate, the strong 

sunshine and the dry and thermal conditions that prevail during the grape ripening 

period have determined the varietal composition of the vineyard. The white 

Greek varieties Roditis, Fileri and Assyrtiko and the red Mandilaria, Mavrodaphne, 

Fokiano, Korinthian, Agiorgitiko and Avgoustiatis were planted. Mostly, however, 

winegrowers turned to international grapes with Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc, Cabernet 

Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache rouge, Merlot and Carignan covering most 

of the vineyards. And the wines produced are marketed under the PGI Trifyllia. The 

full-bodied whites, rosés with intense fruit and deep-coloured reds reflect the warm 

climate where they are made, often akin to the wines of the New World”. Panagiotopoulos, 

an oenologist himself, has been farming the vineyards surrounding his 

winery using organic techniques since 1982 with his viticulturist father and agronomist 

wife. The modern facility is a good suggestion for those travelling to the region 

who want to get to know the wine styles. They get the opportunity to wander through 

the vineyards and discover the wine region. 

CRETE, BLESSED FOR WINEGROWING 

Our last stop is Crete. Located at the southern edge of Greece, Crete is the largest 

and most populous of the Greek islands and the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean. 

Despite its southern location, it is ideal for viticulture, which is why one-fifth 

of Greek wines are produced here. The vineyards of Crete, considered as some of 


GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

the most traditional in Europe, are located on the 

northern side of the island. Obviously this is no 

coincidence. The island may be famous for its mild, 

healthy climate, but the five-month summer, which 

makes it so popular with tourists, is not necessarily 

conducive to growing vines. Summer droughts 

can be challenging, so vine growers have chosen the 

deep, fertile soils in the valleys and on the slopes 

cooled by the Aegean’s North winds. They establish 

vineyards behind the mountainous backbone of 

Mount Psiloritis to protect them from the hot liva 

from the East. This is why most of the vineyards 

are located in the North-Central part of the island, 

around Heraklion, in Archanes, Peza and Dafnes, 

as well as in Sitia, in the eastern areas. 

Over the last 20 years, the wine landscape on Crete 

has been characterised by a steady shift towards 

quality. Alongside the co-operatives, private producers, 

both small and large, with privately owned 

vineyards, the necessary know-how and willingness 

to conduct research and experimentation, are also 

active. There has been tremendous change in the 

varietal composition of the vineyards, which are 

mainly dedicated to local varieties, some of which, 

such as Vidiano, Plyto and Dafni, have been saved 

from extinction and surprise us with the vitality 

and quality of their wines. Legislators have been 

generous when it comes to quality statements on 

the island, granting 7 P.D.O.s and 6 P.G.I.s. 

The Miliarakis family settled in Peza in the mid-19th 

century and has therefore experienced the entire 

historical development of the location, first converting 

their inn into a winery and then moving from 

barrel to bulk and then to bottled wine. Minos 

Wines has been operating as a winery since 1932. 

With one of the oldest wineries in the area, it 

carried out the first bottling of wine on the island 

in 1952. Of course, from the first ‘Hani’ held by 

Antonis Miliarakis to the present-day remodelled 

winery, there have been many milestones. Today, 

Nikos Miliarakis continues this tradition by producing 

a relatively wide range of both indigenous and 

international varieties. Sifis Miliarakis hall shows 

an audio-visual history of the company before visitors 

are invited to enjoy a wine tasting at Metochi 

Miliarakis, among the vineyards. 

THE VINEYARDS OF CRETE, CONSIDERED AS SOME OF THE MOST TRADITIONAL IN 

EUROPE, ARE LOCATED ON THE NORTHERN SIDE OF THE ISLAND 

THE MINOS WINE MUSEUM 


63

THE NEXT-GENERATION GLOBAL 

BUSINESS ENABLER FOR ITALIAN 

FINE WINES 

BY ELLEN BUDGE. 


EDOARDO FREDDI. 

From its base in Castiglione delle Stiviere, South of Lake Garda in 

northern Italy, Edoardo Freddi has grown into a multi-million-bottle 

operation in just a decade. We asked its founder, Edoardo Freddi, how 

he has achieved such head-turning success and where he sees the future 

for Italian wine. 

EDOARDO FREDDI SUPPLIES A COMPREHENSIVE RANGE OF WINES, FROM ENTRY-LEVEL TO HIGH-END 


ITALY 

FOCUS 

EDOARDO FREDDI CONNECTS THE FINEST ITALIAN WINERIES WITH TOP INTERNATIONAL IMPORTERS AND DISTRIBUTORS 

The figures are mind-blowing. Founded in 2012, Edoardo Freddi managed 

sales of 33 million bottles of wine for 49 Italian wineries in 2022, generating 

revenue of 80 million euros. It boasts an impressive portfolio, featuring 

prestigious names such as Feudi di San Gregorio, San Leonardo and Marchesi 

di Barolo, illustrating its focus on fine wines, although it markets a comprehensive 

product range from entry-level upwards. The wineries are geographically 

diverse, from the North to the South of Italy, offering a complementary choice 

of styles, target audiences and price tags. The company views itself as a ‘business 

accelerator’ for Italian wineries seeking greater presence on the world stage, 

connecting producers with the top overseas importers and distributors in one 

hundred countries, and counting. Nearly half of its business is currently focused 

in Europe, followed by one third in the Americas, 20% in Asia and a balance in 

Africa and Oceania. 

LEAN, AGILE… AND YOUNG 

Asked how he selects the wineries he works with, Edoardo Freddi explains: “The 

winery must have a range in line with current and potential market trends. It 

must have an innovative proposition capable of conveying its added value and 


65

ITALY 

FOCUS 

its unique characteristics. It must also be a leader in terms of volume or value in 

the region and category it belongs to. Flexibility, adaptability to change and the 

winery’s proactive approach are also fundamental”. These values are fully embodied 

by the company itself, which is very much founded on the premise of ‘lean 

and agile’, but also youth – the average age of its 40-strong staff is 35. “One of our 

strengths lies in our young and specialised team which is capable of providing 

a complete, quality service”, adds Freddi. The company acts as an external sale 

department for its partner wineries, providing the in-depth market insight that 

the wineries themselves may lack or offering the resources some companies may 

prefer to allocate elsewhere. Over the past 12 months, it has founded the Edoardo 

EDOARDO FREDDI FACILITATES EXPORTS TO 100 COUNTRIES, AND COUNTING 


LOWER CROP LEVELS IN ITALY 

IN 2023 COULD BE A BLESSING 

IN DISGUISE AND PUSH THE 

ITALIAN WINE PROPOSITION 

FURTHER UPMARKET 

Freddi international observatory to provide wineries with market analysis and 

research aimed at identifying ongoing trends around the world: “This allows us 

to have a clear, up-to-date and constantly active vision on the data front, which 

is essential for our work”. 

PUSHING GEOGRAPHICAL BOUNDARIES 

Edoardo Freddi is able to leverage the data and insight thrown up by the observatory 

to tap into new market opportunities globally. Whilst its current bastion is 

Europe, the company sees a bright future for Italian wines in emerging or undeveloped 

markets in regions like Africa and South America, but also in many Asian 

countries such as China, Singapore and South Korea. It is considering opening 

offices in some key markets such as the United States in order to ramp up its 

presence there and coordinate diversified teams. As its geographical boundaries 

extend, so will its range of customised solutions in a bid to provide its partners 

with unrivalled service. Its portfolio is likely to grow in the future – four new 

wineries have joined its line-up in the past two months alone. “For months, we 

have been very interested in wineries that produce and sell fine wines and are 

seeing that these products are performing very well in international markets”, 

stresses Freddi. “We have established collaborations with Tuscan, Piedmont and 

central Italian wineries. In the future, we plan to include further fine and super 

premium wineries”. 


67

COMPANY FOUNDER EDOARDO 

FREDDI GRADUATED IN 

ECONOMICS AND MANAGEMENT 

FROM LUIGI BOCCONI 

UNIVERSITY IN MILAN 

ROBUST DEMAND FOR FINE WINES 

The range extension dovetails with the premiumisation trend that continues 

to gain traction around the world, despite some current headwinds due to the 

economic crisis and inflation. Edoardo Freddi confirms the underlying tendency 

for consumers to trade up: “We are seeing a lot of demand for fine wines, especially 

in markets such as Germany, Switzerland, the UK, Japan and the Far East”. 

This high-end focus is reflected in the company’s ongoing market shift – whilst 

70% of the wines are currently sold in the off-trade, partly as a result of on-trade 

closures during Covid, the aim is to achieve channel distribution which leans 

more heavily in favour of the on-trade. “Over the next few years, the shares of the 

various channels will change and we will arrive at 50% off-trade, 40% on-trade 

and 10% online”, with e-commerce increasingly gaining in significance. But will 

this year’s small Italian crop hinder the company’s growth potential? “There will 

certainly be an increase in prices, but the crop reduction can benefit companies 

from an inventory perspective, and lower production will also allow them to raise 

their positioning, demonstrate the uniqueness of their wines, and invest more 

in promotion”. Every cloud has a silver lining… 


HOW ARMAGNAC, COGNAC 

AND GIN ARE REINVENTING 

THEMSELVES 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 



In a spirits market with no shortage of products, Armagnac, Cognac and 

gin have successfully leveraged their assets and capitalised on their strong 

reputation. With a firm focus on the future, their range is constantly being 

bolstered by quality offerings that align with current consumer trends. 

LABELLING THE BOTTLES BY HAND AT VEUVE GOUDOULIN 


69

SPIRITS 

SUCCESS STORY 

CHÂTEAU FONTPINOT 

THE DRY VINTAGE CELLAR AT COGNAC FRAPIN 

What used to be referred to as an after-dinner 

drink is no longer necessarily saved for 

post-prandial occasions. This change in drinking 

patterns could well have undermined the industry, 

but instead of that, it has proven itself to be dynamic. 

Armagnac, Cognac and gin producers remain true to 

their values whilst developing a well-stocked range 

of products with undeniable flavour qualities that 

match current consumer demand. Armagnac, which 

has been marketed since the 16th century and is a 

flagship of the French lifestyle, has dusted off its 

image and enjoys the kind of success that would have 

been unthinkable a few years ago. Now produced in 

numerous countries, gin flirts with fashion, stoked 

by the emergence of success-hungry brands in a 

highly competitive marketplace. Admittedly, the 

combined effects of an economic slowdown, the 

impact of inflation and overstocking by distributors, 

particularly in the United States, led to a decline in 

2022, but international markets remain sizeable. 

“Cognac symbolises French excellence, for connoisseurs 

and the world’s top barmen”, claims Christophe 

Veral, chairman of the Cognac marketing 

board BNIC. “Sophisticated marketing supports its 

recognition and aims to raise awareness and exposure 

to its unique character, diversity and aromatic 

intensity crafted by many companies and producers, 

each with its own signature style”. Just like gin and 

Armagnac, approximately 70% of the time Cognac 

is drunk in the cocktail space. The figure illustrates 

the popularity of mixology, an undeniable advantage 

for three spirits that certainly capture the zeitgeist. 

COGNAC 

COGNAC FRAPIN: 

AN HISTORIC COMPANY 

Set in the heart of Grande Champagne, Frapin, a 

company whose family origins date back to 1270, 

embodies the essence of Cognac. Its long-standing 

expertise scales the heights of excellence. This 

family-owned property covers 240 hectares of vines 

farmed to the highest standards using artisanal 

methods that have been passed down over time 


PATRICE PIVETEAU, 

CELLAR MASTER AT 

COGNAC FRAPIN 


71

ROLAND AND VÉRONIQUE 

LEGARET AT DISTILLERIE 

DES MOISANS 

to produce Cognac that is entirely harvested, distilled and matured at the estate. 

“In terms of volume, the VSOP are the most popular”, explains managing director 

Patrice Piveteau. “In terms of value, our XO, including Château Fontpinot XO whose 

hundredth anniversary is being celebrated this year, are our true ambassadors”. 

Frapin is unanimously recognised and primarily marketed in Europe with no 

noteworthy drop in sales. “The American market is relatively small for our company”, 

points out communications manager Thomas Soret. “It’s more of a cocktail and VS 

market whereas we have mostly XO in our range. China is a major destination for us. 

It has experienced a slowdown since 2022 and its recovery has been slower than we 

anticipated. Despite this, we are successfully maintaining sales through our high-end 

niche market positioning in countries such as South Korea. In Africa, countries like 

Nigeria, Cameroun and South Africa are potentially interesting”. 

DISTILLERIE DES MOISANS: A CORE ASSET 

At the end of a windy street stands a hamlet. The Moisans distillery boasts twelve 

boilers and ageing cellars along with a manor house for welcoming visitors. The 

60-hectare vineyard is classified as Fins Bois and Petite Champagne. After buying 

his first vines, founder Roland Bru created the distillery in the 1960s – it is now one 

of the leading Cognac companies. His daughter Véronique Legaret and grandson 

Roland, along with managing director Olivier Petit, now perpetuate this impressive 

family story. Ugni Blanc is the predominant grape variety. This late-ripening 


LÉGENDES 

LÉGENDES 

DAVID FLOIRAC, CELLAR MASTER AT DISTILLERIE DES MOISANS 

DISTILLERIE DES MOISANS 

cultivar is harvested at the end of the summer to ensure it fully delivers its delicate 

flavours. “Our XO range stems from the selection of rare Cognacs conducted by our 

cellar master”, explains Roland Legaret. They are matured to perfection for at least 

ten years in oak barrels then blended based on ancient traditions. The blend is the 

result of a subtle balance which reveals a delicate, floral aroma on the nose then a 

wealth of flavours on the generous palate which fully encapsulates the complexity of 

a benchmark pour. The Moisans Napoléon Cognac is a blend of Cognacs from carefully 

selected growths that are matured for at least six years and display a distinctive 

mahogany hue, a floral nose and subtle fruit notes. “We sell in France and to sixty 

countries, which makes us less sensitive to declining markets in some parts of the 

world”, adds Olivier Petit. “Distillerie de Moisans, through its history and mature 

brandies, is unique in that it markets a lot of mature Cognacs from VSOP through 

to Hors d’Age”. 

GIN 

GIN 3R: NORMANDY GIN 

Enthusiasts and inquisitive visitors are always welcome at Gin 3R. The distillery spoils 

its customers with its quality products. The expertise it has garnered over nine generations 

has taken the art of distilling the noble fruit of Normandy – apples – to the 

highest level. “Our gin is defined by its balance”, explains manager Régis Bouvault. “It 


73

SPIRITS 

SUCCESS STORY 

is very aromatic without being strong, and is very refreshing. Obviously, competition 

is still significant, but the quality of the flavour is essential. Our base alcohol, which 

comes from Normandy, is 100% cider brandy, which is virtually unique and is one 

of our selling points. Some gins are designed more for mixology, ours also targets 

individual enthusiasts”. In a sometimes challenging marketplace, the brand appeals 

for its uniqueness. Asian countries like Singapore and Hong Kong are very receptive 

to this expressive range made from apples using a skilful recipe that includes juniper 

berries, coriander, angelica, tarragon, mint and rosemary. 

RÉGIS BOUVAULT OF GIN 3R AT AN EXHIBITION OF NORMANDY PRODUCTS 


SPIRITS 

SUCCESS STORY 

TRÉSOR GIN MAISON ODART: 

NATURE’S HIDDEN TREASURES 

LAURA DUCLOS AND MANFRED AUDARD WHO 

STARTED TRÉSOR GIN 

In the icy cold Canadian winters, Manfred Audard, 

Laura Duclos and their team have found the 

precious ingredients used to create Trésor gin. One 

by one, each herb, fruit and spice are painstakingly 

selected before beginning the process of blending, 

adding, combining and tasting. “Our aim was to 

create unique gins which stand apart from those 

that are already commercially available”, explains 

Manfred Audard. “The first recipe we created is the 

N°13 with thirteen ingredients foraged in a genuine 

treasure hunt to obtain the perfect balance between 

the herbs, spices, fruit and flowers. Juniper berries 

are the key ingredient, which is why we chose to use 

cade juniper with its smooth, resin-like notes”. The 

broad-ranging collection of flavours includes the 

N°6, packaged in a clear Champagne-style bottle, 

which has six distinctive ingredients: strawberries, 

raspberries, cherries, cranberries, blueberries and 

a touch of rhubarb. The aim is to offer a rounded, 

smooth, appetising spirit. “It has become essential 

to offer specific recipes with a difference and styles 

geared to your audience, whilst remaining competitively 

priced”, adds Audard. “In our Canadian 

market, there are over one hundred local gins, so 

it’s up to us to be creative and innovative. But we are 

seeing interest from emerging markets, particularly 

India, Mexico and the Caribbean”. 

‘WILD’ GIN BY THE DAMES BLANCHES DISTILLERY 

LES DAMES BLANCHES: WILD GIN 

In Champagne country, there are multiple flavours. 

Located in a former convent of Queen Blanche of 

Castile, in Jonquery in the Marne department, the 

Dames Blanches distillery has made it its mission 

to produce superior quality spirits since 2020. A 

single malt whisky sits alongside a gin distilled 

from grapes grown in the vineyards, which allows 

each stage of the production process to be monitored, 

from the grape to the glass. “Our aim is to 

produce a wild gin from organic plants”, recounts 

Paul-Louis Ammeux, the owner of the distillery with 

his brother Augustin. “No flavourings are added. All 


75

PAUL-LOUIS AMMEUX, LEFT, 

THE OWNER OF THE DAMES 

BLANCHES DISTILLERY WITH 

HIS BROTHER AUGUSTIN 

the plants are macerated in the alcohol and distilled with it”. The traditional recipe is available 

in a French version, with no colourings or flavourings, but with the aromas instilled 

through maceration and distillation. “We position our products in the premium segment 

and work with manageable volumes”, adds Augustin Ammeux. “We prioritise quality over 

volume which I believe is a guarantee of quality”. 

ARMAGNAC 

VEUVE GOUDOULIN: WHERE THE TERROIR TALKS 

Prominent women continue to be a part of the collective psyche here. When she founded 

her distillery in 1935, Jeanne Ménal Goudoulin did not necessarily anticipate that 88 years 

later her name would conjure up the sheer pleasure of a fine Armagnac. In 2009, Michel 

Miclo, the owner of a family-run distillery in Eastern France, acquired the company. His 

aim was to ensure renewed exposure for the brand whilst at the same time safeguarding 

its authenticity and quality through a premium positioning. “Our range shows distinctive 

terroir features”, stresses Miclo. “We take our time. The vintage labels spend many 

long years in barrels before being released for sale so that our casks can enhance our 

brandies. This is essential for modernising our company’s image, which is starting to 

happen. However, we still have a lot of work to do to improve awareness, particularly in 

the domestic market. Storing 400 to 450-litre barrels allows the Armagnac to develop 


THE VEUVE GOUDOULIN TEAM, 

LEFT TO RIGHT: FANNY SALOME, 

ORDER PICKER, SANDRINE 

DUBROUÉ, ASSISTANT, CATHERINE 

ROBINE BOUTELOUP, SALES 

DIRECTOR AND CELLAR MASTER 

FRÉDÉRIC CENENT 

the complexity of its aromas and to mature”. The VS, VSOP and XO styles are the most 

popular in export markets, particularly in Europe and Asia. “Uninformed consumers 

confuse Armagnac and Cognac”, regrets cellar master Frédéric Cenent. “They have very 

little idea of the different categories. The designation and its region still need to establish 

awareness among the general public”. 

CHÂTEAU GARREAU: DIVINE NATURE 

Located in the golden triangle of Grand Bas Armagnac, Château Garreau has magnetic 

appeal and is a joyful destination for its visitors. In addition to its underground cellar, 

which is unique in the region, the property has developed wine tourism activities through 

the Armagnac eco-museum, founded by Charles Garreau in 1986. Designed to promote the 

local area, the museum is a place for discovery and exhibitions and seamlessly combines a 

museum of winegrowing and stills. The property’s 27 hectares of Baco, Ugni Blanc, Colombard 

and Folle Blanche vines – the four main grape varieties for Armagnac – alongside 

Gros Manseng, Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet, boast outstanding vineyard sites. The 

fawn sand soils and ochre-coloured silt become a source of life and rare elements. “We 

aim to give the tastebuds a wake-up call for every drinking occasion”, stresses Carole 

Garreau-Caillaud, the company’s acting partner. “This provides some true opportunities 

for sharing in harmony with nature which instils its vital energy in us, inviting us to 

explore terroir-driven flavours”. The comprehensive range can be used to produce some 


77

SPIRITS 

SUCCESS STORY 

THE FAMILY AT CHÂTEAU GARREAU 

delicious cocktails, particularly with the Blanche 

Armagnac and the Bouquet de Vie. But it can also 

be enjoyed as an aperitif, neat or mixed, with food 

or of course as an after-dinner drink to savour the 

more concentrated aromas of a mature vintage for 

example. “Armagnac is drawing increased interest 

from connoisseurs”, adds Garreau-Caillaud. “It 

deserves its success and more, this is only the beginning. 

Its boutique scale, with just 2,500 hectares of 

vines on-stream, its artisan production methods, its 

rich array of aromas, its multiple drinking occasions 

and, so far, its excellent value for money, should 

prompt further interest still. My generation and the 

next one are working hard to rejuvenate its image 

by marketing products that are suited to different 

occasions, without neglecting the vintage offerings 

which are a part of our heritage and our traditions”. 

LÉGENDES 

BRANDIES WITH AN AUTHENTIC 

IMAGE 

WORK IN THE CELLARS AT CHÂTEAU GARREAU 

Rising above the restrictions and the preconceived 

ideas, spirits consumption has remained at a 

steady rate with a range of products that is now 

extensive. Armagnac, Cognac and gin still appeal 

to an audience that is looking for sophisticated 

drinks with authentic ingredients offering a sense 

of discovery. They can be enjoyed in many different 

ways – on the rocks, in cocktails, in long drinks or 

as an aperitif, an after-dinner drink or paired with 

food. “The craft movement, fuelled by mixology and 

Millennials, is driving consumer trends », stresses 

BNIC chairman Christophe Veral. “This approach 

is stoking their success. Over the past few years, 

consumers have been crying out for artisan products 

that showcase craftsmanship”. Since the pandemic 

in 2020, sales have started heading North again, 

mainly due to headway made in the off-trade. 2024 

is likely to see a general slowdown in the global 

economy which will have an impact on the spirits 

market. But a recovery of growth in the main categories 

of Armagnac, Cognac and gin ushers in fairly 

positive long-term prospects linked to the high standards 

of producers seeking to craft high-end spirits. 


VÍSSIMO, 

THE BRAZILIAN CHAMPION 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 


OF THE COMPANY 

E-commerce wine sales are posting strong growth worldwide but their 

development is perhaps most spectacular in Brazil. Traditionally, Brazilians 

show little enthusiasm when it comes to drinking wine, but in just a few years 

– since the pandemic – the country has become the world’s third largest online 

wine market, after the United States and China. This small revolution is partly 

due to the sector’s dynamic and innovative stakeholders, which include Víssimo. 

The company is one of the largest wine e-tailers in Latin America, through its 

Evino platform, and is also one of the biggest importers of international wine 

in the Brazilian market after buying major Brazilian importer and wine 

merchant Grand Cru in 2021. 

ONLINE WINE SALES GREW CONSIDERABLY AFTER THE PANDEMIC IN BRAZIL 


79

CARLOS MOURA, 

SUPPLY CHAIN BUYER 

AT VÍSSIMO 

Although the figures are still low in comparison to other countries, since the 

pandemic in 2020 Brazil has been experiencing a boom in wine. According to 

Wine Intelligence, there were 36 million regular wine drinkers in 2019 in the country, 

rising to 45 million in 2022. Until recently, wine was reserved for celebrations, but 

now, it is enjoyed all year round, “for more relaxed everyday occasions like some 

Netflix back-to-backs or for drinking with pizza”, explains Evino’s supply chain buyer, 

Carlos Moura. 

Several factors explain the new trend but undeniably the pandemic, with the newlyminted 

behaviour patterns it created and the surge in e-commerce, helped foster 

a general interest in wine and allow it to go more mainstream. The changes have 

been made all the more effective by the strategies utilised by e-tailers to familiarise 

consumers with wine and demystify it. Evino, for instance, has always been mindful 

to make the purchasing experience as simple and as intuitive as possible, perfecting 

its chatbot with Eva, the virtual sommelier, using artificial intelligence to make her 

answers increasingly accurate and help customers more effectively. 

Making the wine world more accessible, however, is obviously also about focusing on 

the variety of wines available and spanning the price ranges. Although Evino offers 

a premium section, it also markets sizeable mid-range and entry-level selections, 

thus meeting the needs of new consumers looking for more affordable wines for 


ARI GORENSTEIN, 

CEO OF VÍSSIMO 


81

BRAZIL 

IMPORTER 

casual enjoyment. “We have wines for every customer profile, every occasion and 

every budget”, sums up Moura perfectly. And the variety is not just in the pricing 

– alongside local wines are products from neighbouring countries like Chile and 

Argentina, and also Europe (France, Italy, Portugal etc). 

So did the e-commerce boom lead to an increase and greater diversification in 

imports? “Absolutely”, answers Moura, who believes the explanation is simple: “The 

e-commerce ecosystem, with its unique marketing resources (newsletters, advertising, 

notifications etc), allows us to guide and direct purchases much more than 

in traditional channels. In supermarkets, consumers are left to their own devices 

and tend to pick wines with familiar origins, whereas e-commerce customers are 

more inclined to explore and follow recommendations. It is easier for us to suggest 

wines that are off the well-trodden path”. 

Providing a guiding message also implies supplying international listings that 

are highly sought-after by Brazilian consumers, adds Moura. “As the level of wine 

knowledge in the country is not very high yet, medals like those from Gilbert & 

Gaillard are a guarantee of quality and play a significant role in guiding choices 

and reassuring buyers about their decision”. 

Faced with a broader range of products, Brazilian consumers have honed their 

interest in imported wines even though, as Moura points out, Chile dominates 

sales in every price range, followed by Argentina and Portugal. Conversely, in the 

high-end and ultra-premium segments, the share of French and Italian wines 

increases significantly. As a reminder, Evino is the largest importer of French and 

Italian wines in the Brazilian market. 

BRAZILIANS, WHO ARE TRADITIONALLY FANS OF BEER AND CACHAÇA, 

ARE DRINKING MORE AND MORE WINE 


BRAZIL 

IMPORTER 

WHEREAS TRADITIONAL IMPORTERS FOCUS ON THE PREMIUM SEGMENT, THE E-COMMERCE BOOM HAS HELPED DIVERSIFY THE RANGE 

Through its brand Evino, Víssimo is a key player in the Latin-American e-commerce 

space but since it purchased Grand Cru (founded in 1988) in 2021, it has also become 

the largest import and distribution company for quality wines in Brazil. On acquiring 

this benchmark business, the group took over a portfolio of over 1,300 labels 

from across the globe and countless shops spread across the entire country – there 

are now more than 140 Grand Cru and Evino sales outlets. “The aim is to develop 

this huge asset”, admits Moura. “Through the many bricks and mortar stores, we 

can guarantee express deliveries in just a few hours, both to private customers and 

B2B clients like restaurants and wine merchants. Restaurants carry fewer and fewer 

inventories and demand increasingly higher levels of service – with fast and cost-effective 

deliveries, for instance. We are very well placed to meet these needs and go 

beyond them”. 

Through its various interfaces, Víssimo is particularly geared to fulfilling the needs 

of today’s customers who “navigate, experiment and travel along a criss-cross of 

journeys through a variety of channels and every time expect to enjoy seamless 

experiences (click and collect, express deliveries, collection and returns in stores 

etc), but also customised ones”. And for all of these, Víssimo ticks all the boxes. 


83

ANJOU AND SAUMUR WHITE WINES, 

OR CHENIN IN ALL ITS GLORY 

BY NICOLAS RADUGET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: © CHÂTEAU D’ÉPIRÉ - 

© DOMAINE DES BAUMARD - © DOMAINE DE 

LA BOUGRIE - © DOMAINE DES CLAVIÈRES - 

© DOMAINE LAVIGNE 

At the crossroads between Brittany and France’s more continental 

regions, Anjou certainly did not draw the short straw. Its vineyards, 

divided between what is commonly referred to as black schist-clad 

Anjou and its white limestone alter ego, thrive along and around the 

banks of the Loire and its tributaries the Thouet, Layon and Aubance. 

Over 2,000 winegrowers call the area home, and have often done so 

for generations, producing every style of wine, both still and sparkling. 

THE VILLAGE OF ÉPIRÉ 


LOIRE VALLEY 

DISCOVERY 

CHÂTEAU D’ÉPIRÉ’S WINERY IS UNIQUELY LOCATED IN A CHAPEL 

Over time, 19 appellations have been officially recognised across this extensive area covering 

21,400 hectares, along with 8 designations and one PGI. Our report focuses on still white 

wines which all come from the same iconic grape variety, Chenin. 

Our two first stops are at Château d’Epiré and Domaine des Baumard in the heart of AOC 

Savennières, an appellation whose size – a mere 150 hectares farmed by 30 producers in three 

villages – is inversely proportional to its uniqueness. The vineyards enjoy good exposure on rocky 

outcrops overlooking the right bank of the Loire. Then we will head for the sweet destinations of 

Bonnezeaux and Coteaux du Layon, stopping over at Domaine de La Bougrie and Domaine des 

Clavières. The last leg of our journey takes us East, to the South of Saumur for a tasting of the 

namesake appellation wine at the aptly-named Domaine Lavigne. 

CHÂTEAU D’EPIRÉ: A CHURCH WITH NO ALTAR WINE 

This prestigious mansion has belonged to the Bizard family since 1882 and five generations 

have produced wine here, perpetuating a tradition that is older still. The current owner and 

winemaker Paul Bizard explains: “I joined the farm in 2017 after doing a short stint in commerce 

beforehand. I worked for multiple retail before going back to study wine”. By 2019, Bizard had 

fully taken over running of the estate, after starting with the 2017 harvest. In fact, our team 


85

PAUL BIZARD AT CHÂTEAU D’ÉPIRÉ 

THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU D’ÉPIRÉ 

found one of his first wines, a 2019 La Croix Picot, particularly noteworthy. The winery only produces 

Savennières spanning three labels which each refer to small and unique vineyard blocks within a 

relatively small radius of 10 hectares in the village of Epiré itself. The nearby Loire and the vineyards’ 

aspect are the major defining features. La Croix Picot is made from grapes with light noble rot, as 

has been customary here for many years, but “we add a touch of modernity by fermenting the wine 

in casks that are between one and fifteen years old”. The aim is to produce a very balanced wine 

that is both mineral and oaky. Paul Bizard is a keen nature enthusiast, as mirrored in the winery’s 

HVE certification, but he also values the family’s heritage, which he perpetuates. One of the winery’s 

proudest aspects is its winery: “I am so fortunate to be able to work in a 12th-century church”. 

It’s not just the building’s charm and unique setting that are an attraction – the very thick walls 

and semi-underground location ensure that temperatures stay very stable all year round, without 

having to resort to artificial cooling or heating systems. Another plus point is that the crop can also 

be conveyed using gravity. For all these reasons, René Bizard chose to turn the church into a winery 

in 1905, making it conducive to some highly spiritual moments. 

DOMAINE DES BAUMARD: OF FAMILY AND FRUIT 

Twenty kilometres from Angers, Rochefort-sur-Loire has rhymed with Baumard since 1634. This 

long-standing winegrowing family – which even operated a nursery during phylloxera – continues 

to enlist family members from across the generations to farm its 40 hectares set on either side of the 

Loire. Jean Baumard, the grandfather and figurehead of the present-day winery, passed away last 

summer but the lineage continues. Alongside Florent Baumard, his son and the current boss, a third 

generation has already signed up. Charles happily joined the winery two years ago, followed by his 


LOIRE VALLEY 

DISCOVERY 

brother Maxime who started with the 2023 harvest 

season. “We strive to produce delicate, refined and 

precise wines that reflect the purity of the fruit 

from the original vineyard site”. This is true both of 

the sweet and the dry wines. “We have used pneumatic 

presses since 1969, which help us segment 

and select the juice. We adapt pressing to suit the 

crop”. The winery is popular in the international 

market: “A large share of our wines is sold in export 

markets”, stresses Charles Baumard. And it focuses 

primarily on still white wines and on a Crémant de 

Loire. But the Baumards do produce a light red, 

vintage permitting. Their 2019 Le Clos du Papillon, 

one of their two Savennières, caught our attention 

in particular. It comes from more clayey soils 

than the Clos de Saint Yves, which grows on sandy 

blocks, but generally speaking, the soils are schist. 

“We are sandwiched between the maritime climate 

of the Atlantic coast – more or less 125 km away 

– and Touraine’s continental climate. Although 

Anjou’s weather patterns are fairly temperate, there 

are often significant variations in sunshine, heat, 

rainfall and wind. The wide rows of vines allow us 

to adapt our techniques to a changing climate”. The 

technique was introduced by Jean Baumard at the 

end of the 1950s and enabled both mechanisation 

– in an era when weedkillers were considered the 

silver bullet – and ground cover between the vine 

rows. Although the winery has farmed sustainably 

since then, it is now in its second year of conversion 

to organic. In practice, though, the vineyards have 

long been farmed organically: “My father was afraid 

there would be an extra administrative workload 

and pointless inspections but I kind of got the 

process back in motion when I arrived”, explains 

Charles Baumard, just to clarify things for the 

winery’s customers. 

FLORENT AND CHARLES BAUMARD 

FLORENT BAUMARD IN THE FAMILY WINERY 

DOMAINE DE LA BOUGRIE: 

A BONNEZEAUX FULL OF JOY 

The winery, based in the locality of the same 

name which is steeped in winegrowing legends, 

currently extends over around 100 hectares. Eight 


87

A BARREL AT 

CHÂTEAU D’ÉPIRÉ 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

THE SOUTHERN FAÇADE 

OF LA GIRAUDIÈRE, THE 

COUNTRY MANOR HOUSE 

AT DOMAINE DES BAUMARD 

A BONNEZEAUX VINEYARD 

AT DOMAINE 

DE LA BOUGRIE 

88 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

LOIRE VALLEY 

DISCOVERY 

grape varieties are grown then turned into wines that are labelled under 13 different 

appellations, without counting the single varietal Chardonnay and Sauvignon marketed 

as PGI. We fell for the Chenin in its 2018 Bonnezeaux iteration. The appellation is extremely 

renowned and comes with stricter specifications than other Anjou sweet wines. 

“This is our high-end offering, a dessert wine made in a tiny appellation area where 

all the vineyard blocks are small”, sums up manager Vincent Goujon. Considering the 

size of the farm, it’s a little like a needle in a haystack, or a real gem designed for a 

niche market whose price tag is inevitably above average. “This is a very special wine, 

bottled in 50cl bottles and we only produce a few dozen hectolitres a year, that’s all”. 

The vineyards are located on schist soils. In addition to this, the winery also produces 

other regional white wines, red that spends time in barrels on a fairly boutique scale, 

and mainly “a lot of rosé” due to strong, sustained consumer demand for the colour. 

The winery is certified HVE level 3 and is proud to belong to the independent winery 

producers’ organisation. Also, to meet current requirements, it has built a low-energy, 

underground winery and is currently finishing a second one above ground. The cellar 

door facilities will be moved and packaging and labelling will be easier to handle. It’s 

not just the vineyards that are witnessing a change in practices – success has to be 

catered for and open days are hosted to welcome regular visitors. Since the pandemic, 

demand for this type of event has started up again with renewed vigour. 

DOMAINE DE LA BOUGRIE’S SALES TEAM 

AT VINEXPO IN 2023 

VINCENT GOUJON, MANAGER, AND BENOÎT DE MONTLEAU, 

CURRENT OWNER OF DOMAINE DE LA BOUGRIE 


89

LOIRE VALLEY 

DISCOVERY 

DOMAINE DES CLAVIÈRES: 

A CLASSIC SCORE 

THE DAVY FAMILY IN THE CELLAR 

At the end of the 16th century, Dutch traders 

channelled a tributary of the Loire called the 

Layon in order to facilitate trade in wines that 

were already suitable for transportation and 

could be kept for a long time. These are the 

historical origins of the present-day, storied 

Coteaux du Layon appellation, whose heritage is 

currently safeguarded by three hundred producers 

and negociants who market over 5 million 

bottles a year. For seven generations, the Davy 

family has farmed vines in Saint-Lambert-du- 

Lattay, now part of the village of Val-du-Layon. 

In its Vieux Pressoir cellar, it produces wines 

covering a broad spectrum of styles, including 

several labels under the famed appellation 

where overripe Chenin grapes are harvested. 

Since 2013, it has sold one in particular under 

the Domaine des Clavières label, via a local 

trading company. The 2022 vintage was tasted 

and got a vote of approval from Gilbert & Gaillard. 

It is typical of the appellation’s entry-level 

wines, which are generous even with low price 

tags. The colour is golden and the nose complex. 

Once on the palate, the wine shows mouth-filling 

softness yet also lots of nuance and freshness, 

all for a retail price of around 10 euros a 

bottle. This is an excellent way to discover this 

complex appellation which offers sweet wines 

delivering very complex aromatics and ageability 

that can range from five years to a good 

half-century! 

DOMAINE LAVIGNE: 

THE PERFECT APTRONYM 

This is one aptly-named winery if ever there was 

one! Three generations of Lavignes – aka ‘the 

vine’ – have focused and still focus on wine in 

Varrains, South of Saumur, along the left bank 

of the Loire. Pascale Véron, whose maiden name 

was Lavigne, works with her husband Antoine. 


ANTOINE VÉRON AT 

DOMAINE LAVIGNE 


91

LOIRE VALLEY 

DISCOVERY 

PASCALE AND ANTOINE VÉRON ON THE FREIGHT ELEVATOR 

They took over the family-run business in 1999 and now manage 

45 hectares of vines, “which are unique in that they are planted to 

42 hectares of Cabernet franc and 3 hectares of Chenin”. Alongside the 

two grape varieties there is now some Pinot noir and some Chardonnay 

to produce a special Crémant de Loire extra-brut label, which is new 

to the range. Véron admits that in this particular region, “Saumur- 

Champigny is the prime mover”, which explains why Cabernet franc 

is so widespread in their vineyards. However, our panel homed in on 

their 2021 white Saumur Les Aïeuls. “We did an initial pass for our 

traditional white, then a second one and did some light sorting, let’s 

say, on clay-limestone soils, with some more weight to produce slightly 

fatter wines”, explains winegrower Véron. The fruit then goes direct-topress 

and after fermenting in tanks for a little while, spends six months 

in 500-litre barrels, or demi-muids. Using this technique, “the wine 

stays dry but takes on a more oily, more structured side”. And if you’re 

concerned that the wine might be too oaky, there’s no need to panic: 

“The barrels are twice the size of a classic cask so there is a lot more 

wine than wood”, sums up Véron, pointing to more honeyed aromas. 

Down the years, this family-run winery has built up a loyal customer 

base which can continue to enjoy its wines’ good value for money. 


MALBEC, THE SIGNATURE VARIETAL 

THAT PUT ARGENTINA ON THE 

WORLD STAGE 

BY MAURICIO LLAVER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

In just over 30 years, Malbec has catapulted Argentina into the 

competitive international world of wines. It arrived in the South 

American country in the 1850s and subsequently managed to avoid the 

ravages caused by phylloxera in France, thus preserving its original 

genetics. Fast forward to 2022, and it accounted for 56% of Argentina’s 

total wine exports. 

STAPHYLE’S VINEYARD AT LAKE POTRERILLOS, A RELATIVELY NEW LANDSCAPE IN MENDOZA’S WINEGROWING SCENE 


93

ARGENTINA 

GRAPE 

THE 3SAPAS TEAM: JONAS LÉPINE (SALES), FLORIAN FRÉSARD (OPERATIONS AND 

DESIGN), ARNAUD FRÉSARD (PRESIDENT AND CEO), LUIS COITA CIVIT (WINEMAKER 

AND AGRONOMIST) AND FERNANDO SOTA (WINEMAKER) 

Fortunately for Argentina and wine drinkers 

around the world, Malbec held onto its original 

genetics despite the phylloxera plague that ravaged 

France shortly after the mid-1800s. In Argentina 

it was popularly known as the ‘French grape’, and 

for more than a century it was used to make table 

wines, blended with other varietals, due to domestic 

consumption being almost entirely focused on this 

type of wine. But from the 1990s onwards, Argentina 

discovered that Malbec had enormous potential to 

make great wines, and the trend began to change. 

Wineries began to experiment, to enter international 

markets and to leverage the varietal’s benefits. 

Suddenly the country became synonymous with 

Malbec at international level. Michel Rolland best 

defined this leap in quality: “What Argentina did in 

ten years with Malbec, no one else in the world has 

done”. 

The phenomenon has since swept across the entire 

Argentinean wine industry, with Malbec grown 

across the country, producing wines spanning the 

price brackets. One poignant figure that demonstrates 

its success is that in 2022, 56% of Argentina’s 

total wine exports were Malbec. 

3SAPAS: A SWISS ADVENTURE IN 

MENDOZA 

THE 3SAPAS VINEYARD IN GUALTALLARY, UCO VALLEY, AT THE FOOT OF THE ANDES 

MOUNTAINS 

“Friendship. Love for wine and nature. Mendoza”. 

These are the initial components of the unique 

story of 3Sapas, a project that was born in 2017 

when Arnaud Frésard, born in La Chaux-de- 

Fonds (Switzerland), arrived in Buenos Aires for 

a study exchange aged just 26. After a few trips to 

Mendoza, he met a compatriot who introduced him 

to the world of wines. Later, after his brother Florian 

joined them, Arnaud’s dream took shape, inspired by 

the memory of a maternal great-grandfather who 

owned a small vineyard in the Veneto and produced 

his own wine. 

From the outset, the idea was to found a winery that 

would represent his generation and bring a breath of 

fresh air to a very traditional world. “A young, irreverent 

and sustainable winery”, as Arnaud defines it. 

Thus 3Sapas was born, an acronym for “three Swiss 


A TEAM DRIVEN BY A VERY CLEAR PHILOSOPHY: “FRIENDSHIP. LOVE FOR WINE AND 

NATURE. MENDOZA” 

WINEMAKER LUIS COITA CIVIT AT 3SAPAS, AND HIS 

LOVE FOR WINE 

at the foot of the Andes”. The winery is located in Gualtallary, in the Uco Valley, and has 46 

hectares, 35 of them planted with vineyards switching over to organic. 

3Sapas grows 18 grape varieties, nine red and nine white, and the percentage of Malbec 

is between 55% and 60% of the total varietal range. According to Frésard, “when it comes 

to marketing our wines, one argument that underscores Malbec’s position as Argentina’s 

emblematic variety is its plasticity. It is one of the most adaptable grape varieties to the 

climate of our region, which allows us to produce a wide range of iterations, from rosé 

and white wines to wines with texture and great minerality, as well as wines matured in 

oak barrels. Consequently, Malbec allows us to offer our consumers different wines that 

result in a unique experience of the world of Argentinean Malbec”. 

Also, in partnership with NGOs, 3Sapas is developing the ‘One bottle = one tree’ 

programme, which supports the planting of a native tree in areas threatened by deforestation 

or damaged ecosystems for each bottle of its wines sold. 

FAMILIA CROTTA: NINETY YEARS OF TRADITION IN THE 

CENTRAL VALLEY 

Mendoza has very diverse areas for wine production, and one of them is the Central Valley, 

located in the east of the province. This is where the largest amount of grapes are grown in 

Argentina and where Familia Crotta is located. The company boasts 90 years of tradition 

and owns almost 400 hectares of vineyards, producing 18 million litres a year. 


95

ARGENTINA 

GRAPE 

FAMILIA CROTTA: A FAMILY WITH A 90-YEAR HISTORY IN ARGENTINA’S WINE INDUSTRY 

“Out of our total production, Malbec represents 35%, 

because we also grow Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, 

Tempranillo, Chardonnay, Torrontés, Syrah, Chenin 

Blanc and Moscatel”, explains Mario Bartolucci, the 

company’s export manager. Bartolucci has been 

working hard for years to open up foreign markets 

– Familia Crotta is a strong player in Argentina’s 

domestic market, where it sells 70% of its production. 

“Malbec is our flagship and is always the most 

requested varietal by buyers, which is an advantage 

because, we take advantage of it to introduce 

other varieties”, he explains. “It is a very natural and 

noble varietal, which has found in Mendoza a perfect 

terroir to express itself. From a winemaking perspective, 

it is versatile and allows us to make wines 

that can be young or show great concentration”. 

Familia Crotta markets Malbec across its lines and 

ships them to 18 foreign markets where it already 

has a presence. The young varietal range features 

a single varietal Malbec under the Crotta brand; 

Com1enzos line contains a blend of 50% Malbec and 

50% Bonarda; there is a Malbec partially aged in oak 

barrels, and the Gran Reserva Malbec Familia Crotta, 

matured for 12 months in oak barrels. “Malbec is 

therefore present in each line and expresses its different 

qualities”, concludes Bartolucci. 

FAMILIA CROTTA OWNS ALMOST 400 HECTARES OF VINEYARDS 

TIERRA FÉRTIL: MALBEC AS AN 

IDENTITY 

Taking advantage of his foreign trade skills, Bartolucci 

is also developing Tierra Fértil, his own project 

with a strong export focus. “For our family, Malbec 

forges an identity, so we make a Malbec in each line, 

all with grapes from different areas of the Uco Valley. 

Out of our total production, 70% is Malbec and the 

remaining 30% is Chardonnay”, he says. 

Tierra Fértil’s export focus is borne out by the 

fact that exports represent 90% of total sales. The 

company currently has a presence in Brazil, Panama 

and Poland, and is working on the development of 

markets such as the United States, Canada, the 

United Kingdom and China. 

“Malbec is our flagship globally, and in most countries 

it is the wine that facilitates penetration of 


ARGENTINA 

GRAPE 

other varieties. We always promote Malbec as our identity, reflected in every bottle we 

produce, because the world almost always associates us with it”, stresses Bartolucci. 

The wines are Malbec Tierra Fértil (matured for six months in oak barrels), Malbec 

Reserva Tierra Fértil (matured for 12 months in oak barrels), and Malbec Gran Reserva 

Tierra Fértil (matured for 18 months in oak barrels). For 2025, the company is preparing 

a blend that will have 45% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Franc, 15% Petit Verdot and 

10% Cabernet Sauvignon. “It will be a very high quality wine in limited quantities”, 

predicts Bartolucci. 

DOÑA PAULA: WHERE MALBEC HELPED DEFINE A STYLE 

Martín Kaiser, manager of winemaking and viticulture at Doña Paula winery, defines 

the meaning of Malbec unreservedly: “It is our star varietal for different reasons, but 

the most important is that, throughout Doña Paula’s history, we have managed with 

Malbec to find our style of what a good red wine should be”. 

MARIO BARTOLUCCI: “FOR OUR FAMILY, MALBEC IS AN IDENTITY” 


97

ARGENTINA 

GRAPE 

MARTÍN KAISER, HEAD OF WINEMAKING AND VITICULTURE AT 

DOÑA PAULA, CLAIMS “MALBEC HELPED US FIND A STYLE OF WHAT 

A GOOD RED WINE SHOULD BE” 

Doña Paula is a Chilean-owned project that settled 

in Mendoza and produces a long list of labels with 

the varietal, such as Selección de Bodega, Parcel 

Alluvia, Parcel Los Indios, Altaluvia, Single Vineyard 

El Alto, Estate, Los Cardos, Rosé and Unique. In 

addition, in some blends, it uses Malbec as a majority 

grape in five wines: 1100, Estate Black Edition, 

Estate Blue Edition, Smoked and Los Cardos Red 

Blend. Doña Paula has a strong focus on foreign 

markets -70% of its exports are Malbec – and 60% 

of its vineyards are planted to the variety. 

As Kaiser explains, overseas, Doña Paula highlights 

the fact that the terroir where they source their 

Malbec is very different to most of the world’s major 

regions. “We have areas with relatively cool summers, 

but with great sunshine, which produce fruity wines 

with pleasant tannins. This style is highly sought after 

by global consumers who find Malbec easy to enjoy 

and feel it pairs well with a wide range of foods”. 

Another advantage is that it is a relatively easy variety 

to farm in the vineyard: “The vines are very rustic and 

adapt to soils of all types. They even tolerate some soil 

pests, such as phylloxera and nematodes, better than 

other fine varieties. Malbec is also tolerant to conditions 

conducive to fruit diseases that occur in some 

summers with higher rainfall”, concludes Kaiser. 

STAPHYLE: PIONEERING HIGH 

ALTITUDE MALBEC 

MALBEC ACCOUNTS FOR 70% OF DOÑA PAULA’S EXPORTS AND 60% OF ITS VARIETAL 

RANGE IN THE VINEYARD 

The Staphyle winery has blazed the trail for high-altitude 

Malbec wines in Potrerillos, a mountainous 

area in the foothills of the Andes, in Luján de Cuyo. 

Here, its vineyards border the Potrerillos reservoir, 

a relatively new landscape for winegrowing in 

Mendoza. 

Sebastián Olalla, the winery’s CEO, explains that 

“for Staphyle and Argentina, Malbec is the ultimate 

iconic varietal and it represents 75% of our exports”. 

Logically, 60% of Staphyle’s vines are Malbec, and 

vineyard management is designed to cater to its 

portfolio, which includes Malbec in every range, 

from entry level to luxury wines. 

Staphyle’s Malbecs are already exported to 28 countries, 

and Olalla stresses the importance of having a 


FAMILIA CROTTA 

PRODUCES 18 MILLION 

LITRES A YEAR AND 

EXPORTS 30% OF ITS WINES 

ALUVIA VINEYARD: 

A HIGH ALTITUDE 

EXPERIMENT ON THE EDGE 

OF THE ANDES 

STAPHYLE HAS MALBEC IN 

ALL RANGES, FROM ENTRY 

LEVEL TO HIGH-END 


99

STAPHYLE STRESSES THAT EVERY MARKET ASSUMES THAT AN ARGENTINEAN WINERY MUST HAVE SOME MALBEC 

flagship varietal: “As a varietal that has already achieved international prestige, there 

is really no need to insist too much about why we make Malbec. Also, markets assume 

that, as we’re an Argentinean winery, we have to have Malbec”. 

However, new challenges are arising on the export horizon, notes Olalla: “In the world 

there are mature markets with consumers with a relatively high level of knowledge, 

for whom an ‘acceptable’ or ‘drinkable’ Malbec is no longer sufficient. The wines’ particular 

characteristics, such as their origin, terroir, particular winemaking techniques 

or history have to be highlighted”. 

In terms of portfolio, Staphyle produces Iris Malbec, a young varietal wine that is not 

matured in wood; Vástago de GEA Malbec, a very fruity varietal with a percentage of 

American oak maturation; Staphyle Premium Malbec, which shows very good structure 

and elegance and is matured in French and American oak barrels; Staphyle Partida 

Limitada Malbec, a very expressive and complex range, matured in French oak barrels 

for twelve months; Staphyle Dragón de Vino Malbec, born among the mountains in 

the Potrerillos Valley, with features defined by its high altitude; and Staphyle Malbec 

Microterroirs Series, made with grapes from three very significant sub-regions in the 

Uco Valley: Gualtallary, Vista Flores and El Cepillo. 

DON ROSENDO WINES: MALBEC AS A CORNERSTONE 

The mission of Don Rosendo Wines is very clear: “To cater to consumers’ highest expectations, 

to be an icon of service, and to be instrumental in taking Malbec and Argenti- 


PATRICIO PEREYRA IRAOLA, DIRECTOR OF DON ROSENDO WINES 

DON ROSENDO WINEMAKER, GABRIELA ZAVALA, MAKES VERY DIFFERENT 

MALBEC DEPENDING ON THE ESTATES WHERE THE GRAPES ARE SOURCED 

nean wine out to the world”. Based on this premise, it produces a long list of Malbec-focused 

labels from grapes grown in Alto Agrelo (Luján de Cuyo) and La Consulta (Uco 

Valley). Patricio Pereyra Iraola, who belongs to a traditional Argentinean family and 

is director of the company, explains that “Malbec is the basis of our wines, and as an 

iconic grape from Argentina it represents us as a country and is what we sell most. We 

have 100% Malbec varietals and it is also the most important component of our blends”. 

At Don Rosendo Wines, Malbec represents 75% of the wines it produces, while 60% of 

its vineyards are planted to the varietal. “On our Alto Agrelo estates, we produce deep, 

characterful, fresh and very fruitful Malbec wines, whilst our Malbec from La Consulta 

is very elegant and complex, with fruity and floral characters”, explains winemaker 

Gabriela Zavala. 

The company’s main export markets are the United States, China, the European Union 

and Brazil. The main brands are Don Rosendo Special Selection Malbec (matured for 

9 months in French oak barrels); Don Rosendo Select Malbec (matured for 12 months 

in French oak barrels); Picabuey Oak Cask Malbec; Picabuey Reserve Malbec (matured 

for 12 months in French oak barrels); Jamaaz Malbec (matured for 15 months in French 

oak barrels); Doña Fina Malbec; Doña Fina Reserve Malbec (matured for 9 months in 

French oak barrels), and Doña Fina Royal Select Malbec (matured for 12 months in 

French oak barrels). Among its blends, Argentina’s flagship varietal accounts for 50% 

of Don Rosendo Select Malbec/Carménère. “Malbec is a variety that has found the ideal 

conditions for its development in Argentina. We love our country and we are convinced 

that Malbec is the soul of Argentine wines. It represents us, and we proudly introduce 

it to the world”, concludes Pereyra Iraola. 


101

HOW SUPPLY CONSTRAINTS 

ARE PROMPTING CAVA 

TO REINVENT ITSELF 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES - 

@GVA FOR ¡HOLA! CAVA 

Over the past few years, Cava has been dazzling consumers in the 

international marketplace, even managing to outshine Prosecco and 

Champagne. But this year, its producers have had to cope with extreme 

drought conditions causing an unprecedented decline in crop volumes 

which are threatening output and volume sales. This challenging situation 

has led the appellation’s bodegas to contemplate a range of strategies to help 

them overcome the shortfall, but also redefine their actions in the future. 

CODORNÍU CAVAS COME FROM THREE WINE REGIONS IN DO CAVA IN CATALONIA (PENEDÈS, CONCA DE BARBERÀ AND COSTERS DEL SEGRE) 


SPAIN 

APPELLATION 

THE CHARDONNAY AND PINOT NOIR HARVEST STARTED SLIGHTLY AHEAD OF NORMAL, OVER THE FIRST DAYS OF AUGUST 

The DO’s chairman, Javier Pagés, claims emphatically that this year’s 

cava harvest is “a warning for the future of winegrowing”. The situation 

is compounded by the fact that the two previous years were also affected by 

drought. Almost overnight, wineries have gone from a surplus of wines to 

managing a significant decrease in production, just as demand, particularly 

in export markets, heads North. 

Also, the fact that Cava – unlike Cava Reserva and Cava Gran Reserva – can 

leave cellars after nine months’ ageing on the lees, does not necessarily help 

build up inventories, which is a prerequisite for absorbing shocks and compensating 

for production fluctuations. Once again, however, the Cava appellation’s 

bodegas have demonstrated their proactive mindset by introducing measures 

designed to respond to strong market pressure and cope with the current situation. 

Four of the top Cava companies tell us how they have managed to rise to 

the challenge. 

RAVENTÓS CODORNÍU, THE APPELLATION BEHEMOTH 

If there is one thing that sets Raventós Codorníu apart – in addition to the 

experience it has gained over its 500-year history – it is its ability to adapt to 

new challenges. The magnitude of this year’s drought was extremely rare, but 

it did not take the company unawares, far from it. In fact, as Núria Vives, the 

global communications manager for the famous Catalan company explains, the 


103

CATALAN COMPANY CODORNÍU 

IS CONSIDERED TO BE ONE OF 

THE 17 OLDEST WINERIES IN 

THE WORLD 

lack of rainfall did not affect every area in the same way. It led to a production 

shortfall of 30 to 40% compared with 2022 in some wine regions, like Penedès, 

but at Raimat in the province of Lleida, where the bodega also farms its own 

vines, production was good mainly due to the lack of spring frosts. 

Harvesting of the Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes was slightly early but in 

Penedès, where Codorníu grows native grape varieties “which can cope with 

high temperatures well”, picking started on August 21, within the usual timeframe. 

Also, lack of rain promoted impeccable quality fruit. At Raimat (Costers 

del Segre), where the climate is more continental, “we achieved excellent 

balance between alcohol content and acidity, allowing us to compensate for 

the slight loss in acidity in the fruit from other areas that were more affected 

by the lack of water”. 

Obviously, owning over 3,000 hectares of vines is an advantage when climate 

change has to be factored into the equation, but it is not enough. Good management 

is of paramount importance because, as Vives points out, within the 

appellation, Cavas cannot be produced from base wines stemming from different 

harvests. It is therefore impossible to compensate for lack of production 

one year by using inventories from previous years. “Our ‘reserve’ is based on our 

prediction ability. Depending on our forecasts for the harvest, we can increase 

our purchases of fruit from external producers at an early stage, which gives us 

great stability”. The winery’s exports, which account for approximately 45% of 

production, are thus not affected by the initial drop in volumes. 

The company’s prediction skills are not just applied to short-term issues. It 


CÉSAR AND JUAN LANGA 

GONZÁLEZ, WITH THEIR FATHER 

JUAN JOSÉ 

has introduced measures to adapt to the new conditions, primarily the lack of 

water, but also to reduce the carbon footprint of its business – in 2024, all of 

its Cavas will be organic. At Raimat, for example, precision farming methods 

are used, exemplified in the choice of regenerative viticulture, where ground 

cover limits soil erosion, and new mulching techniques. “Raimat is used as 

a strategic testing ground and its innovative techniques are gradually rolled 

out to the other companies within the group”. Raventós Codorníu is certainly 

setting a great example. 

BODEGAS LANGA, ARAGON’S LEADING CAVA WINERY 

FOCUSES ON QUALITY 

In the history of this benchmark Aragon winery, founded in 1867, harvesting 

had never been as early as this year. Picking occurred towards mid-August so as 

not to compromise the freshness of the fruit and acidity of the must, explains 

César Langa González. Along with his brother Juan, he represents the fifth 

generation to helm the family-owned company which has been based in the 

Calatayud region for over 150 years. 

The winery farms 80 hectares of organically certified vines, divided between 

two areas where the geographical conditions are very different. It also has a 

block of very low-yielding, hundred-year-old vines which produce its top-notch 

wines. Unlike the high-volume rationale applied by some of the large groups, 


105

SPAIN 

APPELLATION 

this particular bodega has always favoured quality over quantity. Although 2023 was a 

year of “climate challenges”, as Langa González points out, it also produced particularly 

healthy, good quality fruit due to lack of rainfall preventing the spread of diseases such 

as downy and powdery mildew. These conditions proved felicitous for crafting wines 

with unique character. “We will have wines in styles that we have never seen before. This 

is the very essence of winemaking, which is to try and transpose the true expressiveness 

of the site into the glass”. 

Obviously drought also led to a fall in production – roughly 15% on last year – adds 

Langa González, “but fortunately rainfall in September slightly improved the situation”. 

The consequences will become tangible in the future – “we will have less Cava over the 

coming years” – but in some ways, this is “the natural law of our business”. In actual 

fact, despite being relatively small, the bodega has significant inventories of Guarda 

Superior Cavas, matured for over 18 months, one of which is its 2018 ‘Reyes de Aragon’ 

made from the 2018 harvest. 

But how about the impact on prices? Some Cavas have increased their prices and done 

away with promotions to avoid any inventory shortages, points out Langa González. 

This new situation is also compounded by regulatory changes recently applied to the 

Cava appellation, leading to a repositioning of many Cavas in national and international 

EVERY YEAR, BODEGAS LANGA ENSURES IT SETS ASIDE AS MANY OF ITS FINEST BASE 

WINES AS POSSIBLE FOR ITS STOCKS OF CAVAS SUPERIORS 


BODEGAS LANGA’S EXPORTS 

TO OVER 30 COUNTRIES 

ACCOUNT FOR BETWEEN 55% 

AND 60% OF SALES 

THE EGG-SHAPED TANKS AT 

BODEGAS LANGA WHICH 

OPTIMISE THE WINEMAKING 

PROCESS 

THE VALLFORMOSA 

BODEGA IS LOCATED IN 

VILOBÍ DEL PENEDÈS 


107

VALLFORMOSA PARTNERS WITH OVER 400 GRAPE GROWERS 

VALLFORMOSA HAS MADE A CLEAR COMMITMENT TO THE ENVIRONMENT AT EVERY 

STAGE OF PRODUCTION 

markets. “Fortunately, our winery is in a good place and covers every segment, 

which means we can hope for significant value growth”, says Langa González. 

Volumes may be lower but there is no shortage of growth. 

VALLFORMOSA, A BODEGA WITH A MISSION 

Harvesting promised to be challenging with output set to be over 50% down 

in some blocks, but ultimately the winery picked just 15% less than expected, 

which is a much lower drop than the rest of the industry, points out communications 

director Sílvia Rodríguez Rubio. “Vallformosa is located in a part of the 

region [Penedès] which coped slightly better with the drought. With the exception 

of some grape varieties, like Chardonnay and Pinot noir, which suffered a 

lot this year, the other cultivars adapted better to the extreme weather conditions. 

Ultimately, ripening went well”. 

To tackle the drop in production, the winery had to buy more grapes from more 

growers – it partners with over 400 farmers. And to compensate for the losses, 

it was more than willing to increase its purchase prices to show solidarity with 

its partner growers. Also, adds Rodríguez Rubio, “We have now been providing 

farmers with solutions for adapting to climate change for the past three 

years”. Vallformosa has introduced “courses to educate growers about ways of 

pruning that are mindful of sap flows, which improves resistance to drought”, 

along with videos about vineyard management techniques that promote water 


CHRISTEL WEEMAES AND 

CHRISTOPHER HEIRWEGH, THE 

FOUNDERS OF ¡HOLA! CAVA 

LÉGENDES 

retention, including deep tillage and winter cover crops, and avoid prolonged 

exposure to sunshine. The winery has always supported the use of native grape 

varieties, “rather than Merlot or the Cabernets, which are not well-suited to 

our climate”. It offers unwavering support for its grape growers because overcoming 

these issues is everyone’s responsibility. 

¡HOLA! CAVA, BRINGING FRESH, 

CREATIVE ENERGY TO THE DO 

As the founder of ¡Hola! Cava – the antithesis of a conventional winery – Christopher 

Heirwegh’s ethos revolves around innovating and adapting to emerging 

challenges. Before this year’s drought, comments the winemaker, “there was 

the economic crisis, the pandemic, the glass energy crisis… Through their innovative 

nature, our wines have successfully overcome many difficult situations 

and the company has always managed to reinvent itself”. This ability is at the 

core of the bodega’s success: “We’re not afraid of change, in fact we embrace 

it. For us, it is necessary, vital even for us to function because it forces us to 

bounce back and grow”. 

This small family-run company, founded just ten years ago in Penedès, has 

constantly made headway throughout its short history. It is now a recognised 

Cava company, exporting its wines to over 35 countries. Right from the outset, 

it has made a point of being different. “When we entered the market, a decade 


109

CHRISTOPHER HEIRWEGH IN 

FRONT OF THE TANKS USED 

TO PRODUCE CAVAS WITH THE 

CHARMAT METHOD 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

110 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

SPAIN 

APPELLATION 

ALL ¡HOLA! CAVA SPARKLING WINES ARE ORGANICALLY CERTIFIED 

ago, the wine industry in Spain, particularly for Cava, had a very firm rooting 

in tradition. We wanted to do things differently, to cast a fresh eye on the 

sector”. The company sought out new production methods within its home 

region in order to widen its scope for action. 

One of its main innovations involves the production process itself for the 

sparkling wine –¡Hola! uses the Charmat method, that had never been used 

in the region before. In DO Cava, the traditional method – requiring secondary 

bottle fermentation – has established itself as an unwavering principle, but 

the young winery launched a premium Charmat five years ago. The wine is 

produced using lengthy 90-day fermentation and has proved to be a marketing 

success. “We were the first, but we definitely won’t be the last, in Spain, to opt 

for this production procedure”. One of its main advantages is that it preserves 

great fruit expression and underscores unique richness. 

This dovetails with the company’s ultimate goal which is to showcase the 

region’s incredible terroir, “whilst providing different ways of interpreting 

the wine”. True to this ethos, ¡Hola! Cava has recently launched a low alcohol 

sparkling wine and a Cava-based spritz, offering the ultimate examples of how 

to reinvent a category. 


111

SARAH JESSICA PARKER’S HEART 

BEATS FOR SAUVIGNON! 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES 

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

The former Sex and the City icon has undeniably left a 

lasting impression on television. Who doesn’t remember 

Sarah Jessica Parker playing Carrie Bradshaw, the 

successful journalist with a penchant for fashion and 

designer shoes, looking for trouble-free love in the Big 

Apple? The American star has added another string to 

her bow, partnering with a New Zealand winery in 2019 

to launch ‘Invivo X, SJP’, a Sauvignon blanc which she 

created and whose sales have soared to dizzying heights 

matched only by the Empire State Building… 

Are you the kind of star likely to spend a lot of money on outstanding 

wines? 

No! I come from a family where every dollar counted, which 

meant, as you can imagine, that my parents had to be extremely 

strict about managing money. There was no room for anything 

needless. I can still hear my mother saying, “Sorry, there won’t 

be any Christmas presents this year”. Even though we would 

assure her that we understood, deep down we were frustrated. 

So I have money sense. I don’t spend money without due consideration. 

Regarding wine, experience has taught me that you 

can find top quality wines at affordable prices! 

Is that why you teamed up with New Zealand company Invivo 

Wines? 

I got to know the company through a friend. The winery’s 

executives sent my husband and I a few bottles. Without 

knowing it, we were already drinking their wines and had been 

enjoying them for a long time. In Ireland, where we spend part 

of the year, the grocery store near our house was well-stocked 

with Invivo wines, but we hadn’t put the two together. In New 

York wine merchants, wines from around the world are often 

grouped by country. The New Zealand section was becoming 

increasingly large and more importantly would sell out quickly. 

So I figured the island produced quality wines. 

112

STARS 

& WINE 

SARAH JESSICA PARKER HAS 

PARTNERED WITH INVIVO WINES 

TO PRODUCE THIS SAUVIGNON 

LABEL THAT IS EXTREMELY POPU- 

LAR IN THE UNITED STATES 

What part do you play in this joint-venture? 

I took part in every stage of winemaking for this Sauvignon blanc produced in Te Kauwhata, 

a winery that is over 120 years old. That goes from the name, Invivo X, SJP, to the label design 

through winemaking and blending of the wine which is a resounding success. You may know 

this already, but our New Zealand Sauvignon blanc is currently the most popular wine with 

Americans! It’s also among those that have won the most awards! 

So now you know everything there is to know about wines produced on the other side of 

the world by Kiwi winegrowers… 

I didn’t used to know as much as I do now. I still have so much to learn about this exciting 

industry! I’m still at the stage where I’m all ears and I ‘lap up’ every word that the people who 

managed to turn this drink into a unique flavour experience say! 

You once said to me that drinking wine could have some health benefits… 

Since I read that drinking wine helps digestion – mainly due to the occurrence of certain 

acids – I have felt so much better. Apparently, wine can even protect you against certain 

vascular diseases. Basically, I don’t know how much is fact and how much is fiction, but it 

certainly works great for me! 


113

CONTACT 

DETAILS 

Bordeaux - Pages 10-22 

• Charles & César: 

Tel. +33 5 56 13 11 14 - 

www.charlesetcesar.com 

• Bordeaux Vineam: 

Tel. +33 5 57 40 08 88 - 

www.bordeaux-vineam.fr 

• Descas Père et Fils: 

Tel. +33 5 57 54 14 14 - 

www.descas.com 

• Maison Bouey: 

Tel. +33 5 56 77 50 71 - 

www.famillebouey.fr 

• Savas: 

Tel. +33 5 56 92 62 96 - 

www.savas-sa.fr 

• Vignobles Lopez: 

Tel. 5 56 71 57 58 - 

www.chateau-hermitage.com 

• Yvon Mau, Freixenet Gratien: 

Tel. +33 5 56 61 54 54 - 

www.yvon-mau.com 

Champagne - Pages 23-33 

• Champagne G.H. Martel & Co: 

Tel. +33 26 82 70 67 - 

www.champagnemartel.com 

• Champagne De Saint-Gall: 

Tel. +33 26 57 94 22 - 

www.de-saint-gall.com 

• Champagne Drappier: 

Tel. +33 3 25 27 40 15 - 

www.champagne-drappier.com 

• Champagne Vincent Couche: 

Tel. +33 3 25 38 53 96 - 

www.vincent-couche.com 

• Champagne Ployez-Jacquemart: 

Tel. +33 3 26 61 11 87 - 

www.ployez-jacquemart.fr 

• Champagne Collard-Picard: 

Tel. +33 3 26 52 36 93 - 

www.champagnecollardpicard.fr 

• Champagne Laurent Lequart: 

Tel. +33 3 26 58 97 48 - 

www.champagne-laurent-lequart.fr 

• Champagne Collery: 

Tel. +33 3 26 56 86 68 - 

www.champagne-collery.com 

Italy, Prosecco - Pages 34-43 

• Azienda Agricola Andreola Di 

Stefano Pola: Tel. +39 0438 989379 - 

https://andreola.eu 

• De Stefani: 

Tel. +39 0421 67502 - 

https://de-stefani.it 

• Le Manzane: 

Tel. + 39 0438 486606 - 

www.lemanzane.com 

• Sui Nui Spumanti: 

Tel. +39 0423 1916793 - 

www.suinuispumanti.it 

• Conte Collalto: 

Tel. +39 0438 43 58 11 - 

cantine-collalto.it 

South Africa - Pages 44-53 

• Anura Phone: 

Tel. +27 21 875 5360 - 

www.anura.co.za 

• Babylonstoren: 

Tel. +27 21 863 3852 - 

www.babylonstoren.com 

• Fairview: 

Tel. +27 21 863 2450 - 

www.fairview.co.za 

• Saronsberg: 

Tel. +27 23 230 0707 - 

www.saronsberg.com 

• Wildeberg : 

Tel. +27 81 567 1451 - 

www.wildeberg.co.za 

Greece - Pages 54-63 

• Zoinos Wines: 

Tel. + 30 26580 22297 - 

www.zitsawine.gr 

• Vaeni Naoussa: 

Tel. +30 2332 044274 - 

www.vaeni-naoussa.com 

• Charismatiki Wines: 

Tel. + 30 25940 21148 - 

https://charismatikiwines.com 

• Cavino - Mega Spileo Estate: 

Tel. + 30 26910 71555 - 

www.cavino.gr, www.megaspileo.gr 

• Papaioannou Estate: 

Tel. +30 27460 23138 - 

www.papaioannouwines.gr 

• Nemea Wine Cooperative: 

Tel. +30 27460 22896 - 

https://nemeanwines.gr 

• Papantonis Winery: 

Tel. +30 27510 23620 - 

www.papantonis.gr 

• Panagiotopoulos Wines: 

Tel. + 30 27630 41190 - 

www.panagiotopouloswines.com 

• Minos wines: 

Tel. + 30 28107 41213 - 

www.minoswines.gr 

Italy - Pages 64-68 

• Edoardo Freddi: 

Tel. +39 0376 18 88 038 - 

www.edoardofreddi.it 

Spirits - Pages 69-78 

• Cognac Frapin: 

Tel. +33 5 45 83 40 03 - 

www.cognac-frapin.com 

• Distillerie des Moisans: 

Tel. +33 5 45 90 55 45 - 

www.distillerie-des-moisans.com 

• Gin 3R: 

Tel. +33 2 32 46 11 44 - 

www.gin3r.com 

• Trésor Gin Maison Odart, Québec: 

Tel. +1 514 814 5718 - 

www.tresorgin.com 

• Distillerie Les Dames Blanches: 

Tel. +33 6.12.85.64.54 - 

www.distilleriedamesblanches.fr 

• Veuve Goudoulin: 

Tel. +33 5 62 06 35 02 - 

www.armagnac-goudoulin.com 

• Château Garreau: 

Tel. + 33 5 58 44 84 35 - 

www.chateau-garreau.fr 

Brazil - Pages 79-83 

• Evino: Tel. +55 (11) 4200-4999 - 

https://www.evino.com.br/vinhos 


CONTACT 

DETAILS 

Loire Valley - Pages 84-92 

• Château d’Épiré: 

Tel. +33 2 41 77 15 01 - 

www.chateau-epire.com 

• Domaine des Baumard: 

Tel. +33 2 41 78 70 03 - 

www.baumard.fr 

• Domaine de La Bougrie: 

Tel. +33 2 41 78 86 21 - 

www.labougrie.com 

• Domaine des Clavières : 

Tel. +33 6 19 53 42 39 - 

info@caveauduvieuxpressoir.fr 

• Domaine Lavigne: 

Tel. +33 2 41 52 92 57 - 

https://domaine-lavigne.com 

Argentina - Pages 93-101 

• 3Sapas: Tel. +54 9 2612768769 - 

https://3sapas.com 

• Familia Crotta: 

Tel. +54 9 2616407862 - 

https://www.crotta.com.ar/en/ 

• Tierra Fértil: 

Tel. +54 9 2616407862 

• Doña Paula: 

Tel. +54 9 2615022991 - 

https://donapaula.com 

• Staphyle: Tel. +54 9 2615552171 - 

https://www.staphyle.com/ 

• Don Rosendo Wines: 

Tel. +54 9 1158077200 - 

www.donrosendowines.com/en/ 

Spain - Pages 102-111 

• Raventós Codorníu: 

Tel. +34 93 505 15 51 - 

www.raventoscodorniu.com 

• Bodegas Langa: 

Tel. +34 976 881 818 - 

info@bodegas-langa.com 

• Vallformosa: 

Tel. +34 938 97 82 86 - 

vallformosa.com 

• ¡Hola! Cava: 

Tel. +34 931 191 244 - 

hola@holacava.com 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: 

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe 

Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, 

Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Camille 

Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle Escande, 

Mauricio Llaver, Maria Netsika, Sylvain Patard, 

Nicolas Raduget, Francesco Saverio Russo, Samarie 

Smith-Meletiou DipWSET, Frank Rousseau 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS 

Traduções 

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial director: 

Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Fourth quarter 2023 • Legal publication n° pending •ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly 

prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


115

PAGES 117 TO 130 

TOP WINES 

OUR WINTER SELECTION 

A PROMISING FOURTH TASTING SESSION IN 2023 

The final tasting session for 2023 did, indeed, deliver on all its promises and we are now 

focusing on our goals for 2024. After spending the past two years travelling across Central and 

Eastern Europe – whose wine industries now hold a significant share of our tasting sessions 

– we placed emphasis this year on South America which also made a sensational debut due to 

the efforts by our local representative in Mendoza, Vivien Morvan. In fact, the first wines from 

the 2023 vintage tasted over the past few months are all-set to be extremely promising, which 

is excellent news. Roll on 2024! 

PICTURESQUE VIEWS OF THE VINEYARDS OF KASTRAKI, A VILLAGE IN CENTRAL GREECE 

THE BEST OF WINTER 2023 

Our selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is presented on pages 117 to 130. As is customary, we 

have chosen to present you the wines by country (SOUTH AFRICA, GREECE…), then by appellation in 

each region, with each winery or chateau listed in alphabetical order and descending order of their scores. 

This issue features our selection of wines from South Africa, including many Rhone blends, along with some 

amazing Greek wines, incredible Champagnes, Cavas from across Spain, some of the most highly valued 

Proseccos and some robust Argentinean Malbecs. 

THE TASTING PANEL: 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD 

FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT - OLIVIER DELORME – GONZALO FERNANDEZ - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - BRUNO MICHAL – GERALDINE SPENCER - JAMES TURNBULL 


SOUTH AFRICA - BREEDEKLOOF 



Here is a cherry-picked selection from 

our tastings over the past few months 

in the Western Cape. The wines include 

Rhône blends, which are particularly 

popular in South Africa and outside the 

country. 

WESTERN CAPE 

WESTERN CAPE 

LA MOTTE 93/100 

CR D 2018: Concentrated garnet with brick 

red rim. Ripe dark cherries, violet integrated oak 

and toast. Integrated tannins, sour fig presence 

and coated medium granular tannins in absolute 

sync. Can be enjoyed now, has further cellaring 

potential. Easy 5-8 years. 

http://www.la-motte.com Price: € 16.00 

La Motte +27 21 876 8000 

MIMOSA 93/100 

D MYSTERIUM 2021: Garnet red. Red fruit 

of raspberries, cranberries, cherries amplified 

by spicey notes. Integrated oak offers support, 

grip and well maintained tannins. Enjoy now or 

in next 3-5 years. 

Price: € 4.10 

Mimosa Wines +27 23 614 2351 

FAIRVIEW 92/100 

D CALDERA 2021: Ruby brick. Dark berry 

nose with a hint of red cherry. Full and rich on 

the savoury palate with a touch of leather and 

chocolate. Spicy and earthy on the aftertaste. 

Complex and layered. Drink through 2028. 

https://www.fairview.co.za/ Price: € 170.00 

Fairview +27 21 863 2450 

LA MOTTE 91/100 

CR D 2019: Garnet red. Spicy cinnamon, 

violets and an array of dried herbal fynbos. Sour 

dried wild fig entry, coated by in sync oak and 

varietal tannins. Attractive dryness on exit. 

Drink in next 3-6 years. 

http://www.la-motte.com Price: € 16.00 

La Motte +27 21 876 8000 

MERWIDA 90/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: Light yellow. 

Gooseberry and lime on the fruit-forward nose. 

Gooseberry and citrus follows on the crisp palate 

with melon and tangy granadilla. Drink through 

2027. 

http://www.merwida.com Price: € 4.50 

Merwida Wingerde +27 23 349 1144 

SPICE ROUTE 90/100 

D CHAKALAKA 2021: Very dark garnet. 

Dark berry nose with cassis and blackberry. 

Dried prunes and plum on the palate with a 

matured note of stewed fruit on the aftertaste. 

Drink through 2027. 


Fairview +27 21 863 2450 

SPICE ROUTE 90/100 

D RED BLEND 2022: Very light garnet. Red 

berry nose with a hint of leather. Soft tannins 

on the red berry palate with strawberry and 

sour cherry. Juicy fruit on the leathy and lengthy 

aftertaste. Elegant and finessed. Drink through 

2027. 


Fairview +27 21 863 2450 

GOATS DO ROAM 88/100 

D WHITE 2022 


Fairview +27 21 863 2450 


D ROSÉ 2023 


Fairview +27 21 863 2450 

VAL DU CHARRON 88/100 

D FOUR WHITE LEGS 2023 

http://www.vdcwines.com Price: € 5.00 

Val Du Charron Wines +27 21 873 1256 


D RED 2022 


Fairview +27 21 863 2450 

ANURA 85/100 

D ARPEGGIO 2022 

Price: € 5.00 

Anura Vineyards +27 21 875 5360 

WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE 

RIVER VALLEY 

BREEDEKLOOF 

MERWIDA 90/100 

D BLANC DE BLANCS : Attractive light straw 

color. Lemon and lime notes with white peach 

and baked bread. The presence of stone fruit 

and vegetables offer a good mid palate and long 

aftertaste. Will age well. 

http://www.merwida.com Price: € 12.50 

Merwida Wingerde +27 23 349 1144 

HARVESTING AT THE ANURA WINERY. 

WINTER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

117

SOUTH AFRICA - CAPE AGULHAS - ELIM 


WESTERN CAPE - CAPE 

SOUTH COAST 

CAPE AGULHAS - ELIM 

STRANDVELD 90/100 

D THE NAVIGATOR 2021: Dark ruby. 

Cassis and dark berry fruit on the jammy nose. 

Developed on the palate with a hint of juicy fruit 

and leathery spice on the aftertaste. Layered and 

complex. Drink through 2027. 

http://www.strandveld.co.za Price: € 250.00 

Strandveld Vineyards +27 28 482 1902 

WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL 

REGION 

COASTAL REGION 

LIEVLAND 91/100 

D LIEFKOOS ROSÉ 2023: Light onion skin. 

Violets and rose petal nose. Red berry palate 

with stone fruit and cranberry. Sour cherry and 

dried fruit on the lengthy finish. Drink through 

2026. 

http://www.manwines.com Price: € 210.00 

Man Vintners (Pty) Ltd +27 218 617 759 

ESSAY 90/100 

D RED 2021: Light garnet. Subdued nose 

with hints of red cherry. Soft red fruit on the 

palate with a hint of spice and leather. Elegant 

and finessed on the layered and complex 

aftertaste. Drink through 2027. 



OU KALANT 90/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022: Ruby 

garnet. Subdued nose with hints of dark berry. 

Soft and juicy palate with bramble and cassis 

followed by a hint of leather. Dry and grainy 

tannins on the lengthy aftertaste. Drink through 

2027. 



PAARL 

NIEL JOUBERT 88/100 

D CINSAULT GRENACHE NOIR 2020 

http://www.nieljoubert.co.za 

Niel Joubert +27 22 492 3971 

PAARL - SIMONSBERG 

BABYLONSTOREN 91/100 

D BABEL 2022: Dark ruby. Red berry fruit 

and dark cherry on the nose. Palate is full and 

layered with some sour cherry and strawberry 

following from the nose. Grippy and leathery on 

the full and lengthy aftertaste. Drink through 

2028. 

http://www.babylonstoren.com Price: € 4.10 

Babylonstoren (Pty) Ltd +27 218 633 852 

ANURA 88/100 

D SMG RESERVE 2022 

Price: € 4,10 

Anura Vineyards +27 21 875 5360 

STELLENBOSCH 

DOORKEEPER 93/100 

D SHIRAZ MOURVEDRE GRENACHE 2021: 

Dark garnet. Toasty and smoky nose with hints 

of dark berry fruit. Leathery spice on the full and 

layered palate. Grippy tannins on the layered 

aftertaste with a grainy finish. Complex and 

interesting. Drink through 2028. 

http://www.hartenbergestate.com Price: € 130.00 

Hartenberg Estate +27 21 865 2541 

TULBAGH 

SARONSBERG 93/100 

D 2020: Concentrated core depth of plum 

red. Spicy pepper and dark fruit. Oak spice, 

leathery and some earthy notes. Concentrated 

entry and mid palate. Early part of evolution. 

Spice amplify fruit on exit. Further potential of 

8-10 years. 

http://www.saronsberg.com Price: € 32.00 

Saronsberg Cellar (Pty) Ltd +27 23 230 0707 

BABYLONSTOREN’S SUBTERRANEAN WINE TUNNEL. 

118 WINTER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

SPAIN - CAVA D.O. 


SPAIN 

Cava is one of the Spanish wine 

industry’s flagship appellations. 

It leads the way in export markets 

where it competes with Proseccos 

and Champagnes, among others. It 

is high time consumers rediscovered 

this extremely sought-after Spanish 

sparkling wine. 

ARAGON 

CAVA D.O. 

REYES DE ARAGÓN 90/100 

CONV D EL MONJE 2020: Fine pale gold 

colour. Crisp nose of white fruit, especially 

peach. A fine texture with chiselled aromas and 

a fruitiness that is enriched by mineral tones on 

the finish. A seductive cuvée. 

Price: € 10.00 

Bodegas Langa +34 976 88 18 18 

REYES DE ARAGÓN 88/100 

CONV D EL CASTO 2020 

Price: € 10.00 

Bodegas Langa +34 976 88 18 18 

CATALONIA 

CAVA D.O. 

ALTA ALELLA 93/100 

ORG D BRUT NATURE GRAN RESERVA 

MIRGIN EXEO EVOLUCIÓ+ 2004: Lemon yellow 

colour. Nose of white fruits and stewed citrus 

fruits, floral and vegetal touch, note of rancio. 

Mature and fresh palate with beautiful aromatic 

depth. Well-defined fruit supported by a delicate 

bitterness. Oxidative style, for rich dishes. 

http://www.altaalella.wine Price: € 1.50 

Alta Alella +34 934 693 720 

ALTA ALELLA 92/100 

ORG D BRUT NATURE MIRGIN OPUS 2019: 

Golden yellow colour. Nose with aromas of toast, 

crème fraîche, citrus and ripe white fruits. 

Pleasantly oxidative mouthfeel combining a 

fleshy attack, suppleness and finesse, aromatic 

density with a ripe and delicate fruit. Well 

developed and charming. 

http://www.altaalella.wine Price: € 66.00 

Alta Alella +34 934 693 720 

RAVENTÓS ROSELL 91/100 

ORG D BRUT RESERVA : Alluring bright 

gold. Aromatic nose mixing jammy fruit with 

touches of pastry and toast. Shows the same 

delicate fragrances on the palate, which lead 

to a long, homogeneous finish notable for its 

splendid clarity of expression. 

Price: € 9.80 

PepWines Export +34 616 498 726 

VALLFORMOSA 91/100 

CONV D BRUT GRAN RESERVA 150 : Golden 

yellow color. Nose of almond, white peach and 

sweet spices. Pleasantly vinous and straight 

mouthfeel, tinged with freshness. A comforting 

vivacity helps the fruit to emancipate itself. A 

highly aromatic, ample and well-balanced wine. 

http://www.vallformosagroup.com 

Masia Vallformosa +34 938 97 82 86 


CONV D BRUT NATURE RESERVA 

COL·LECCIÓ : Bright light yellow color. Racy 

nose combining grapefruit, candied lemon, ivy, 

and a delicate mineral note. Light, slender and 

tense mouth with a generous and well bound 

effervescence. Beautiful intensity, finesse and 

elegance, a fine gastronomic vintage. 



APPROXIMATELY 85% OF HOLA! CAVA’S WINES ARE BOUND FOR EXPORTS. 

CLOS MONTBLANC 90/100 

ORG D BRUT ROSÉ : Pale salmon pink. 

Aromatic nose of red berry fruit, quite cooked 

aspect. Ample, soft-textured palate to which the 

acidity and red-fruit crispness bring a certain 

discipline. Jovial and structured, with delectable 

fullness of flavour. 

http://www.closmontblanc.com/ Price: € 12.99 

Bodegas Concavins +34 977 887 030 


CR D BRUT NATURE RESERVA : Pale lemon 

yellow. Inviting nose mixing creamy notes, 

white-flesh fruit and floral fragrance. Ample 

and creamy of texture, juicy palate with fruit of 

refreshing vitality, then culminates in a chewy 

finish. An honest, comprehensive Brut. 



CODORNIU 90/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS ARS COLLECTA 

RESERVA : Light lemon-yellow. The nose is 

elegant though slightly reticent, with scents of 

almond, flowers and white fruits. The palate is 

silky, balanced and very soft with delicate yet 

profound aromatic expression. This is a Cava 

that works best with appetisers. 

http://www.grupocodorniu.com Price: € 19.00 

Raventos Codorniu +34 935 051 551 


119



CODORNIU WAS THE FIRST BODEGA TO PRODUCE CAVA IN 1872. 

PROYECTO CU4TRO 90/100 

CR D BRUT ROSÉ BUBBLES : Salmon pink 

colour. Pleasantly typical nose of small red fruits 

with citrus notes. Straightforward and generous 

on the palate with fruity aromas. Well-controlled 

sweetness. Freshness carries the ensemble. Ideal 

with a red fruit dessert. 



TRES NAUS 90/100 

CONV D BRUT : Attractive, limpid golden 

yellow. Pleasant, very ripe nose revealing a 

mineral note. Well-made palate showing a fine, 

silky attack and clearcut flavours uplifted by 

judicious freshness and salinity. A cava of great 

delicacy. 

Price: € 6.00 

Cellers Domenys, SCCL +34 977 67 80 87 


CONV D BRUT RESERVA COL·LECCIÓ : 

Bright pale yellow color. Pleasant nose revealing 

grapefruit, ivy, white fruits and buttery tones. A 

little more timid in the mouth, but we appreciate 

its fullness, shrewd freshness, and aromatic 

precision. A nice cava for the aperitif. 




CONV D BRUT RESERVA GALA : Bright light 

yellow color. Alluring nose associating white 

flesh fruits and spring scents. On the palate, a 

nice fleshy and ripe matter with hints of lemon 

lifted by a generous effervescence. A very 

successful and elegant cava. 



CORDONIU 89/100 

D BRUT ROSÉ ARS COLLECTA 

http://www.grupocodorniu.com Price: € 19.00 

Raventos Codorniu +34 935 051 551 

¡HOLA! 89/100 

ORG D BRUT ROSÉ DESDE BARCELONA 

http://www.barcelonabrands.com/premios/ Price: € 9.99 

Barcelona Brands +34 931 191 244 

¡HOLA! 89/100 

ORG D BRUT DESDE BARCELONA 




CR D BRUT PREMIUM 



DAMIA 89/100 

D BRUT SELECCION ESPECIAL 

http://www.artiga-fustel.com Price: € 2.90 

Artiga Fustel +34 93 818 2317 

PORTIUM DE RAVENTOS ROSELL 89/100 

D BRUT 

Price: € 7.35 



CONV D BRUT NATURE RESERVA 

Price: € 10.00 



CONV D BRUT NATURE RESERVA GALA 






DAMIA 88/100 

D BRUT ROSÉ SELECCION ESPECIAL 



HOLA !H! 88/100 

ORG D BRUT BARCELONA 



JUAME SERRA 88/100 

D BRUT NATURE VINTAGE 2020 

http://www.garciacarrion.es Price: € 6.00 

García Carrion +34 914 355 556 


CR D BRUT BUBBLES 




CR D BRUT NATURE BUBBLE PREMIUM 

RESERVA 2018 



RAVENTOS ROSELL 88/100 

ORG D BRUT NATURE ROSÉ PINOT NOIR 

Price: € 9.80 



CONV D BRUT EXTRA SEC 

Price: € 6.00 



CONV D BRUT ROSADO 

Price: € 7.00 



ORG D MISTINGUETT BRUT RESERVA BIO 




CONV D BRUT GRAN BARON 



ANCIANO 87/100 

D BRUT 

http://www.guyandersonwines.co.uk Price: € 3.50 

Guy Anderson +44 14 60 240 009 

JULIÀ & NAVINÈS 87/100 

ORG D EXTRA DRY ROSÉ ORGANIC WINE 

http://www.giertz.se Price: € 8.99 

Giertz Vinimport AB +46 08 21 83 88 

ORIOL ROSSELL 87/100 

D BRUT 




CR D DEMI-SEC 




CONV D BRUT NATURE 

Price: € 7.00 



CONV D BRUT ROSADO 

Price: € 9.00 


ORIOL ROSSELL 86/100 

D BRUT ROSÉ 



MASIA 85/100 

ORG D 




ORG D BRUT MISTINGUETT 



THE BARREL CELLAR AT VALLFORMOSA. 


121



EXTREMADURA 

CAVA D.O. 

RUIDA DOMO 90/100 

D BRUT NATURE : Shimmering golden 

colour. Delicate, progressive on the nose, the 

white fruit quickly gives way to a floral, honeyed 

bouquet. The mouth follows in the same vein, 

intense, precise and personalised. Freshness 

shines through on the finish. A real treat! 

http://www.enjoywines.com Price: € 9.00 

Enjoy Wine & Spirits AB +34 931 191 244 

ALVARONI 89/100 

ORG D BRUT ORGANIC 

https://www.uveste.es 

Cavas Marieva +34 962 323 343 

EXTREM DE BONAVAL 89/100 

ORG D 

http://www.bodegaslopezmorenas.com Price: € 13.50 

Lopez Morenas +34 924 53 0016 

BELLA MISTRALA 88/100 

ORG D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS CUVÉE 

PRESTIGE 

https://www.uveste.es 

Cavas Marieva +34 962 323 343 

BELLISCO 88/100 

CONV D BRUT ROSÉ 2022 



EXTREM DE BONAVAL 88/100 

ORG D 



FINCA LA PINTADA 87/100 

D BRUT NATURE 

Price: € 6.00 

Hac Export Import +34 605 15 44 79 

BELLISCO 86/100 

CONV D BRUT 2022 



VALENCE 

CAVA D.O. 

AVENT 88/100 

ORG D BRUT 

http://www.hammekencellars.com Price: € 3.95 

Hammeken Cellars +34 96 579 19 67 

MURVIEDRO 88/100 

ORG D BRUT ORGANIC ARTS DE LUNA 

http://www.murviedro.es/ Price: €6.89 

Murviedro Bodegas +34 962 329 003 

AVENT 87/100 

ORG D BRUT ROSÉ 

http://www.hammekencellars.com Price: € 3.95 

Hammeken Cellars +34 96 579 19 67 

MURVIEDRO 87/100 

ORG D BRUT ROSÉ ORGANIC ARTS DE 

LUNA 

http://www.murviedro.es/ Price: €6.89 

Murviedro Bodegas +34 962 329 003 

MZ 87/100 

ORG D 



HOLA 86/100 

ORG D 



HOLA 85/100 

ORG D 



THE HALLMARK STYLE OF CODORNIU’S CELLARS. 


CHAMPAGNE - CHAMPAGNE 


PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°54_Mise en page 1 04/12/2023 09:18 Page 

CHAMPAGNE 

Champagne was long buoyed by its 

unwavering marketing success. But 

competition is now fiercer and ranges 

are tending to move upmarket to more 

premium segments. This was what 

we set out to review in this exquisite 

selection. 

CHAMPAGNE 

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER 98/100 

CONV D BRUT GRANDE SENDRÉE 2012: 

Beautiful light gold colour. On the nose, candied 

fruit mingle with notes of oak and vanilla. The 

mouth is masterful, ample, suave, intensely 

fragrant and endlessly long. A truly impressive 

expression of terroir! 

http://www.champagne-drappier.com Price: € 90.00 

Champagne Drappier +33 3 25 27 40 15 

CHAMPAGNE DE SAINT-GALL 95/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU 

ORPALE 2008: Beautiful light gold. Extremely 

open nose showing great finesse with notes of 

roasted coffee and breadcrust. The palate is 

ample, silky and delicate to start with more of 

the same subtle aromas and great persistence. 

Really enjoyable. 

http://www.de-saint-gall.com Price: € 120.00 

Champagne de Saint-Gall +33 3 26 57 94 22 

CHAMPAGNE GOSSET 95/100 

D BRUT ROSÉ 12 ANS DE CAVE À MINIMA 

: Light orangy-coppery colour. Subtle nose 

showing blood orange tones and a low-key 

spicy touch. Velvety texture on the palate with 

expressive aromas that become more intense 

towards the finish. A full, ethereal and absolute 

top-flight rosé Champagne. 

http://www.champagne-gosset.com Price: € 155.00 

Champagne Gosset +33 3 26 56 99 56 

CHAMPAGNE COLLARD-PICARD 94/100 

D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU BLANC DE 

BLANCS CUVÉE DOM. PICARD : Lovely bright, 

light gold. Complex, rich, pastry-style nose with 

some dried fruit notes. The palate is intense, 

ample and steeped in abundant freshness. A 

very energetic Champagne that also displays 

incredible harmony. 

http://www.champagnecollardpicard.fr Price: € 42.00 

Champagne Collard-Picard +33 3 26 52 36 93 

CHAMPAGNE GOSSET 

97/100 

g BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS CELEBRIS 2012 

D Appealing bright, golden hue. Open nose showing 

ripe white fruit tones and breadcrust. The palate gets of 

to an energetic start that showcases aromas full of 

nesse. The nish is mouth-lling with length way 

above average. Price: € 268 

PRESENTATION: Founded in 1584, Champagne’s oldest 

wine house has shaped its signature style down through 

the centuries. Its ne wines are crafted using unique 

and deliberately selected winemaking techniques. 

Gosset Champagnes aim to create a skilul usion o 

reshness and vinosity and are produced based on a 

method that ully preserves the natural reshness o the 

ruit aromatics. Lengthy lees maturation in its cellars 

subsequently develops roundness and complexity in the 

wine, and creates incredibly delicate bubbles. This 

Gosset Celebris Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2012 epitomises 

the company’s adage: “A ne wine beore becoming a 

ne Champagne”. This is the house’s very rst vintage 

Blanc de Blancs and it comes as a limited edition o just 

15,000 bottles. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 56 99 56 

E-mail: marketing@champagne-gosset.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-gosset.com 


D EXTRA BRUT ARCHIVES 2012: Attractive 

golden hue. Very pure nose with pastry and red 

fruit accents. The same strict characters carry 

over to the palate which is clean, elegant and 

genuine. The style is almost minimalist but 

hugely effective. Set aside for delicacies. 



CHAMPAGNE GOSSET 94/100 

D BRUT 2015: Very appealing pale gold. 

Delicate nose showing floral, biscuit and 

white fruit tones. The same intense, fresh and 

persistent aromatic festival continues through 

to the palate. A Champagne with great breed. 

http://www.champagne-gosset.com Price: € 74.00 

Champagne Gosset +33 3 26 56 99 56 

CHAMPAGNE MAURICE VESSELLE 94/100 

HVE D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU CUVÉE 

RÉSERVÉE : Beautiful gold colour. An engaging 

nose of ripe white fruit, with hints of apple 

and pear. Real fullness, plenty maturity and 

aromatic intensity in the mouth. The finish is 

invigorating and persistent. 

http://www.champagnemauricevesselle.com 

Champagne Maurice Vesselle +33 3 26 57 00 81 


D EXTRA BRUT PRESTIGE : Beautiful 

yellow-gold. Pleasant nose with very pure fruit 

aromatics backed by a pastry edge. The palate 

is seductively fresh with a pleasant structure 

and of course intense, complex and persistent 

aromas. A complete Champagne. 



CHAMPAGNE MAURICE VESSELLE 93/100 

HVE D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU 2013: 

Beautiful, luminous golden yellow colour. The 

nose, combining red fruit with notes of peach 

and apricot, is extremely intense and pure. The 

fleshy attack, brings on lots of freshness and 

intense, lingering aromas. This vintage is at its 

best. 

http://www.champagnemauricevesselle.com 

Champagne Maurice Vesselle +33 3 26 57 00 81 

CHAMPAGNE VINCENT COUCHE 93/100 

ORG D EXTRA BRUT 2015: Appealing 

yellow-gold. Pleasant nose of ripe fruits with a 

subtle pastry tone. The palate is supported by 

freshness and reveals very soft effervescence 

and very elegant aromatics in great shape. A 

truly consummate Champagne. 

http://www.vincent-couche.com Price: € 70.00 

Champagne Vincent Couche +33 3 25 38 53 96 


123





ORG D EXTRA BRUT ROSÉ 2009: Orangish 

colour with coppery reflections. Aromas of ripe 

citrus fruit and orange peel, with a hint of spice 

on swirling. Very well-balanced on the palate, 

with an aromatic range of great purity. A perfect 

vintage that will pair wonderfully with poultry. 




D BRUT NATURE SENSATION 2002: 

Beautiful deep gold. Open nose accented by 

pastry and candied fruits. The palate displays 

lots of character instilled by lovely tension which 

showcases the subtle, persistent aromas. Offers 

genuine fulfilment. 



CHAMPAGNE LAURENT LEQUART 92/100 

HVE D EXTRA BRUT 2015: Lovely golden 

hue. Subtle nose which is floral on first pour 

then flows into subtle pastry and toast tones. A 

real sense of fulfilment comes through on the 

palate, which is very silky, fresh and expressive. 

The finish is mouth-filling, persistent and 

delicate. Gold standard. 

http://www.champagne-lequart.fr Price: € 65.00 

Champagne Laurent Lequart +33 3 26 58 97 48 

CHAMPAGNE PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART 92/100 

HVE D BRUT NATURE DOSAGE ZÉRO 

BLANC DE BLANCS 2013: Glistening yellowgold. 

Very delicate nose showing biscuit tones, 

white fruits and a mineral touch. The ethereal 

palate is supported by remarkable tension 

and sets the stage for subtle flavours. An 

accomplished, food-friendly Champagne. 

http://www.ployez-jacquemart.fr Price: € 43.50 

Champagne Ployez-Jacquemart +33 3 26 61 11 87 

CHAMPAGNE COLLERY 91/100 

D BRUT EMPYREUMATIC 2014: Beautiful 

golden hue. Very mature nose recalling 

jammy plums and figs. The same aromatics 

flow through to the palate which is ample, 

generous and aromatic. The mature finish stays 

beautifully fresh. 

https://www.champagne-collery.com/ Price: € 86.00 

Champagne Collery +33 3 26 56 86 68 

CHAMPAGNE COLLERY 90/100 

D EXTRA BRUT : Lovely brilliant yellow-gold. 

Very pure nose of white fruits flowing into fruity 

tones bordering on jammy. The palate is nicely 

ripe, ample and fleshy, offering up chiselled 

flavours that linger. A full-bodied Champagne 

that works best with food. 

https://www.champagne-collery.com/ Price: € 36.00 

Champagne Collery +33 3 26 56 86 68 

CHAMPAGNE DOM CAUDRON 

91/100 

g EXTRA BRUT SUBLIMITÉ MPC 

D Beautiful golden colour. A very open nose of dried 

fruit and vegetation. The mouth is very pleasantly exotic, 

with hints of vanilla and cinnamon. The nish is 

fresh and persistent. Ideal with sweetbreads. 

Price: € 88.80 

PRESENTATION : Champagne Dom Caudron was 

founded in 1929. With complete control over 

production, from the vineyard to the wine glass, it now 

boasts 90 winegrowers who produce terroir-driven 

Champagne crated from 130 hectares under vine 

located across the hillsides of the Marne Valley around 

Passy-Grigny. Pinot Meunier is the iconic grape variety 

in this western part of Champagne and accounts for 

80% of acreage. The vineyard sites of Passy-Grigny, 

which are perfectly suited to this varietal, naturally 

favoured the production of Blanc de Noirs, allowing 

Pinot Meunier to fully reveal its roundness and intense 

fruitiness, creating the perfect match for the Dom 

Caudron style. 

THE RESERVE TANKS FOR CHAMPAGNE DE SAINT-GALL. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 52 45 17 

E-mail: champagne@domcaudron.fr 

Website: http://www.domcaudron.fr 







CHAMPAGNE COLLERY 

90/100 

g BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS GRAND CRU 

D Beautiful brilliant golden hue. Nose of super ripe 

cherries coupled with a biscuit tone. The palate is nicely 

textured with intense, clean and persistent lavours. A 

very successful Champagne in more of a food-friendly 

style. Price: € 47 

PRESENTATION: The historic brand Champagne 

Collery, founded in 1893 in Ay, is located in the heart of 

the Champagne hillsides recently classied as a 

UNESCO World Heritage Site. The range, exclusively 

made from Grand Cru grapes, harmoniously blends 

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to reveal the best of those 

terroirs’ typicity. 

At Collery’s villa, Champagne and Rataa workshops 

ofer special moments dedicated to tasting and sharing 

the passion and know-how of the House. 

To complete the immersive Champagne experience, 

Collery ofers 4 bed & breakfast and a guest house 

where quietness invites you to share a glass of 

Champagne on the terrasse with a view on the park. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 56 86 68 

E-mail: info@champagne-collery.com 

Website: https://www.champagne-collery.com/ 

CHAMPAGNE H. BLIN 

90/100 

g EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS 

SÉLECTION PARCELLAIRE 2015 

D Lovely, luminous golden colour. Very pure fruity nose 

with loral notes. Silky and smooth on the palate. The 

aromas are ripe, well-established and persistent. An 

accomplished wine that can be opened at the table. 

Price: € 42 

PRESENTATION: Champagne H. Blin (Coopérative de 

Vincelles) is located in Vincelles, an old and charming 

village in the Marne Valley. Simon Blin, the current 

President of Champagne H. Blin and grandson of founder 

Henri Blin, represents the 12th generation of winegrowers 

in Vincelles and is the proud heir to a long family tradition. 

Champagne H. Blin is made from grapes grown on 

exceptional terroirs and in unique conditions, using 

techniques and a philosophy passed down from generation 

to generation. The identity of Champagne H. Blin revolves 

around Meunier with more than 70% of vineyards planted 

with the varietal. H. Blin has strong environmental values 

and several hectares are already certied organic. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 58 20 04 

E-mail: contact@champagne-blin.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-blin.com 

CHAMPAGNE 

LAURENT LEQUART 

90/100 

g BRUT - BLANC DE MEUNIER - VIEILLES VIGNES 

D Beautiful yellow-gold. Rich, changing nose ofering 

up a fusion of fruit and a pastry tone. The palate is 

amazingly soft and full, delivering the same charming 

aromas. A consummate Champagne that works best 

with food. Price: € 36 

PRESENTATION: This family-run farm is located in 

Passy-Grigny, in the very heart of the Marne Valley. It 

covers just over 11 hectares and has dual certication – 

HVE (High Environmental Value) and Viticulture 

Durable en Champagne (VDC or Sustainable 

Viticulture in Champagne). Maison Lequart crats its 

Champagnes with utmost care, extending cellar 

maturation times and also minimising dosages to fully 

express the winegrower’s personal labours. 80% of its 

Champagnes focus on the Valley’s iconic grape variety 

– Meunier – but Laurent Lequart also produces more 

offbeat Champagnes, including single varietal 

Chardonnay and Pinot noir, entirely grown in his 

vineyard sites. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 58 97 48 

E-mail: laurent.lequart@wanadoo.fr 

Website: http://www.champagne-lequart.fr 


125



JULIEN (CELLAR MASTER) & ROMAIN (MANAGING DIRECTOR) SHARE IDEAS ABOUT PRODUCING COLLERY CHAMPAGNES. 


D BRUT 1ER CRU LE TRADITION : Beautiful 

brilliant light gold. Very enticing nose showing 

floral tones, white fruits and lots of freshness. 

The palate is energetic and offers up precise 

aromas with very mouth-coating effervescence 

lengthening the finish. 




D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU BLANC DE 

BLANCS : Beautiful bright pale gold. Delicate 

nose blending white fruits, dried fruits and a 

floral touch. The palate displays more of the 

same very appetising aromatics, underscored by 

a persistent toast tone. A Champagne designed 

for a sophisticated aperitif. 



CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER 90/100 

CONV D BRUT MILLÉSIME EXCEPTION 

2013: Clear, golden yellow colour. Very pure nose 

evoking ripe fruit, confectionery, gingerbread... 

In the mouth, very soft, fruity and pastry-like, 

full of charm. Best served with a sweet and 

savoury dish. 

http://www.champagne-drappier.com Price: € 52.00 

Champagne Drappier +33 3 25 27 40 15 

CHAMPAGNE PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART 90/100 

HVE D EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS 

2015: Beautiful yellow-gold. Mature nose fusing 

a herbal touch and a breadcrust note. The same 

mature aromatics carry over to the palate which 

shows great delicacy. The finish is fleshy and 

persistent with appetising flavours. A foodfriendly 

Champagne. 

http://www.ployez-jacquemart.fr Price: € 52.50 

Champagne Ployez-Jacquemart +33 3 26 61 11 87 

CHAMPAGNE DOM CAUDRON 89/100 

D BRUT EPICURIENNE 

http://www.domcaudron.fr Price: € 30.30 

Champagne Dom Caudron +33 3 26 52 45 17 

CHAMPAGNE LAURENT LEQUART 89/100 

HVE D EXTRA DRY - SAIGNÉE DE MEUNIER 

- ROSÉ DE SAIGNÉE 

http://www.champagne-lequart.fr Price: € 49.00 

Champagne Laurent Lequart +33 3 26 58 97 48 

CHAMPAGNE LOUIS DUMONT 88/100 

D BRUT 

http://www.champagnemartel.com Price: € 20.00 

Champagne G.H. Martel & Co +33 3 26 51 06 33 

CHAMPAGNE PIERRE GRANDET 88/100 

D BRUT 

http://www.champagnemartel.com Price: € 38.00 

Champagne G.H. Martel & Co +33 3 26 51 06 33 


ARGENTINA - VALLE DE UCO 


ARGENTINA 

Malbec is in some ways Argentina’s 

signature grape, one that is part of local 

producers’ genetic make-up. We have 

selected the finest wines from a country 

which, as a reminder, is the world’s 

fifth largest producer of wine. 

MENDOZA 

LUJÁN DE CUYO 

CIGAR BOX 91/100 

D MALBEC 2022: Intense garnet red. The 

nose is very complex, with aromas of linden, 

figs and a subtle smokiness. The palate is 

elegantly structured with long, silky tannins, 

accompanied by hints of tobacco and leather. 

The finish is persistent with notes of black fruit. 

http://www.donapaula.com/ Price: € 13.00 

Dona Paula +54 261 429 0741 

SAVE THE WORLD? WINE NOT...? 90/100 

CONV D MALBEC GRAN RESERVA 2020: 

Intense garnet colour. The first impression is of 

fresh red fruits. After swirling some subtle floral 

notes appear. In the mouth some oak is present, 

but it`s well balanced with the juicy structure. 

The tannins are reactive and need more time. 

Price: € 21.00 

3 Sapas Wine +54 926 127 687 69 

DRINK WINE, SAVE THE WORLD AND 

BECOME A SUPERHERO 89/100 

CONV D MALBEC RESERVA 2021 

Price: € 14.00 

3 Sapas Wine +54 926 127 687 69 

MAIPÚ 

wine in an elegant oak setting. The fruit flavours 

are rich and clear-cut, the tannin well-judged. A 

well-made Malbec. 

Price: € 10.00 

Peñaflor +54 11 5198 8000 

MENDOZA 

MAD BIRD REPOSADO 91/100 

D MALBEC 2019: Intense bright ruby red in 

colour. The nose presents aromas of vanilla and 

white chocolate followed by menthol and black 

pepper notes. The palate is silky and full-bodied. 

The finish is elegant and well-balanced. This is a 

wine ready to enjoy. 

http://www.corbeauwines.com/ Price: € 4.50 

Corbeau Wines +54 911 357 801 82 

MAD BIRD 90/100 

D MALBEC 2021: Ruby red colour with 

elegant intensity. On the nose this wine 

shows varietal character with great aromatic 

complexity, with notes of chocolate, cherries 

and violets. On the palate it is structured and 

elegant, with a juicy and fruity finish. 


Corbeau Wines +54 911 357 801 82 

TRUMPETER 90/100 

D MALBEC 2022: Garnet colour with 

intense violet hues. Aromas of blueberries, figs 

and subtle violet floral notes on the nose. In 

the mouth the silky tannins mix with a juicy 

sensation thanks to the well-balanced acidity. To 

enjoy now. 

https://bodegalarural.com.ar/home/ Price: € 13.00 

Bodega La Rural +54 0261 497 2013 

MAD BIRD 89/100 

D MALBEC-ANCELLOTTA 2021 


Corbeau Wines +54 911 357 801 82 

PIXELS 89/100 

D MALBEC 2022 


Corbeau Wines +54 911 357 801 82 

VALLE DE UCO 

ATAMISQUE 95/100 

D MALBEC 2020: Intense violet colour with 

bluish hints. Complex and fruity on the nose. 

Notes of black fruit such as blackberries and 

cassis are mixed with subtle spiced aromas. On 

the palate this wine has a succulent structure, 

ample and balanced acidity. Persistent. 

http://www.atamisque.com/fra 

Atamisque +54 (261) 156 855 184 

ADUENTUS 91/100 

D MALBEC 2019: Deep garnet colour. The 

nose shows aromas of ripe fruit, spices and 

leather. On the palate it has an accomplished, 

long-lasting structure and repeats the aromas 

previously perceived on the nose which are 

accompanied by volume and persistent sucrocity. 

http://www.bodegaantigal.com Price: € 23.00 

Bodegas Antigal +54 (0) 261 452 4117 

OPI 92/100 

D MALBEC RÉSERVE 2021: Deep ruby red. 

Very flowery nose (violet and peony), alongside 

ripe fruit (sloes, blackcurrants), with a delicate 

oak base. Smooth fruit and oak on the palate, 

refreshing acidity and superb juicy, fleshy 

persistance. Top-quality tannin. 

Price: € 17.00 

Peñaflor +54 11 5198 8000 

OPI 90/100 

D MALBEC 2022: Full violet-blue-tinged 

red. Subtle woody, smoky vanilla nose redolent 

of red and black fruits, spice and flowers. A tasty 

MARIO BARTOLUCCI: (TIERRA FERTIL): “MALBEC IS OUR GLOBAL FLAGSHIP AND MAKES IT EASIER 

FOR US TO INTRODUCE OTHER VARIETIES”. 


127

ARGENTINA - AGRELO 


VISTALBA 

BALDOMIR TERROIR SERIE 94/100 

D MALBEC VISTALBA 2014: Intense garnet 

colour. Ripe aromas of elegant evolution. Meaty 

and fresh notes with a great complexity. In the 

mouth it has lively tannins that still have some 

way to soften. A long and complex wine, you 

have to take the time to enjoy it. 

https://martinowines.com.ar/en/home/ Price: € 16.00 

Fincas Don Martino +54 911 229 056 39 

THE INCREDIBLE SCENERY ACROSS THE VINEYARDS OF MENDOZA. 

CATALPA 91/100 

D MALBEC 2021: Intense violet colour, with 

a dense appearance. The nose needs time to 

express itself but then shows a profile of ripe 

black fruit and ageing notes such as leather and 

coffee. The structure on the palate is sweet and 

persistent. Great ageing potential. 

http://www.atamisque.com/fra 

Atamisque +54 (261) 156 855 184 

MALACARA 90/100 

D MALBEC 2022: Intense garnet colour. 

An elegant and ripe nose. Notes of plums and 

blackberries are perceived both in the aroma 

on the nose and on the palate. A dense and 

structured body balances the aromatic power 

and indicates great potential. 

http://www.kauzoestates.com/ Price: € 15.00 

Uco Valley Wines +54 9 261 250 4270 

UNO PLATINUM EDITION 90/100 

D MALBEC 2020: Intense purplish red 

colour. Floral and fresh red fruit aromas on the 

nose. Elegant tannins and a juicy acidity on the 

palate that invites another sip. A wine to drink 

now or wait a few years because the structure 

promises longevity in bottle. 



ESTÍMULO 89/100 

D MALBEC 2022 



MALACARA 89/100 

D MALBEC 2021 

http://www.kauzoestates.com/ Price: € 15.00 

Uco Valley Wines +54 9 261 250 4270 

UNO 89/100 

D MALBEC 2020 



MENDOZA, LUJÁN DE CUYO 

AGRELO 

MARTINO SUPERIORE 91/100 

D MALBEC 2017: Deep purple colour. Spiced 

nose with balsamic notes, which reappear on 

the palate. Fresh aromas such as eucalyptus 

accomany the natural spice. An elegant structure 

and balanced acidity. This is a wine that 

continuously expresses in the glass. 



STAPHYLE PREMIUM 88/100 

CR D MALBEC 2021 

https://www.staphyle.com Price: € 8.50 

Bodega Staphyle +54 (261) 496 1476 

LUJÁN DE CUYO 

DON ROSENDO SPECIAL SELECTION 92/100 

D MALBEC 2022: Vibrant, dark purple. 

Complex and engaging on the nose, with touches 

of plums and moorland scents coaxed out after 

aeration. The palate is underpinned by silky 

tannin and lifted by well-judged acidity, and 

finishes with great persistance. 

http://www.donrosendowines.com Price: € 6.00 

Don Rosendo Wines +54 115 807 72 00 

DON ROSENDO SELECTION 91/100 

D MALBEC 2019: Red hue with amber tints. 

Expansive nose marked by notes of toasted wood 

and graphite. Gives a youthful impression on the 

palate yet seems mature for its age. All in all an 

unusual wine of great personality which will 

find its fans. 

http://www.donrosendowines.com Price: € 9.00 

Don Rosendo Wines +54 115 807 72 00 

MENDOZA, TUNUYÁN 

LOS ARBOLES 

TIERRA FERTIL RESERVA 89/100 

D MALBEC 2020 

Price: € 7.50 

Bodega Crotta +54 262 344 610 59 

LOS CHACAYES 

BALDOMIR TERROIR SERIE 92/100 

D MALBEC CHACAYES 2017: Intense purple 

in colour. The nose is complex and captivating; 

as time passes in the glass it shows a great 

aromatic palette; black fruits, jammy and spiced 

touches. In the mouth it has a great structure 

that still shows a long way to go. 



EL SALVAJE 92/100 

CONV D MALBEC 2018: Intense red colour 

with an aged appearance. A nose of ripe fruit, 

caramel and plum jam. Some subtle hints of 

tobacco and leather. Silky on the palate but 

with a structure that still denotes longevity. 

Lingering finish. 

http://www.casadeuco.com Price: € 18.00 

Casa de Uco +54 (0) 926 156 855 20 

TIERRA FERTIL GRANCRESERVA 91/100 

D MALBEC 2020: Intense garnet colour 

with a concentrated appearance. The nose is 

expressive, floral and herbal. Notes of ripe 

black fruit and menthol on the palate. Elegantly 

structured with good presence. Persistent and 

aromatic finish. Ageing potential 

Price: € 12.50 

Bodega Crotta +54 262 344 610 59 

VILLA SECA 

TIERRA FERTIL 89/100 

D MALBEC 2022 

Price: € 4.50 

Bodega Crotta +54 262 344 610 59 


ITALY - VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE D.O.C.G. 


ITALY 

Just for you, here is the crème de la 

crème of Prosecco – the Rives. The wines 

are grown over a limited area of just 12 

villages and 31 hamlets where handpicking 

is mandatory. If you factor in 

the myriad aspects of the vineyard sites 

and slopes that can be dizzyingly steep, 

then what you get is richness, freshness 

and complexity. 

VENETIAN 

CONEGLIANO PROSECCO 

SUPERIORE D.O.C.G. 

COLLALTO 91/100 

D BRUT ISABELLA - RIVE DI COLLALTO 

2022: Beautiful pale yellow colour with green 

reflections. Fruity nose with a discreet toasty 

undertone. The mouth seduces with its volume, 

silkiness, freshness and clean, persistent 

aromas. A charming wine. 

http://www.cantine-collalto.it Price: € 13.90 

Conte Collalto Azienda Agricola +39 0438 435 811 

VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO 

SUPERIORE D.O.C.G. 

ANDREOLA 91/100 

D EXTRA BRUT 26° I° - RIVE DI COL 

SAN MARTINO 2021: Glittering pale yellow. 

Attractive nose suggesting yellow-fleshed fruit. 

Very pure on the palate, with a lots of fresh 

fragrance. Very graceful fruit, great energy, 

then finishing round and chewy. A bubbly of 

impressive structure. 

http://www.andreola.eu Price: € 17,49 

Azienda Agricola Andreola +39 0438 989 379 


ORG D BRUT XXIII - RIVE DI SAN PIERTRO 

DI FELETTO - AI BOSCHI 2021: Pale yellow with 

green tints. Lemons, white peaches, flowers and 

mown grass on the nose. Vivacious palate with 

welcome acidity to awaken the taste buds and 

fresh aromatics coupled with very elegant fizz. 

All in all a mouth-watering, convivial Brut. 

http://www.andreola.eu Price: € 18.50 


VAL D’OCA 91/100 

D EXTRA BRUT RIVE DI SANTO STEFANO 

2022: Very light yellow color, pale green 

reflections, very fine bubbles. Nose of white 

fruits and citrus fruits, vegetal and toasted bread 

notes. Lively and tense mouth, with accents of 

acid drops. Evolution and final offer a beautiful 

thirst-quenching freshness. 

http://www.valdoca.com 

Val d’Oca +39 0423 982 070 


D BRUT COL DEL FORNO - RIVE DI 

REFRONTOLO 2021: Pale yellow, very shiny. 

Dried fruits (almonds), white flowers and blood 

peaches on the nose. The palate has conviction, 

with delicate sparkle and invigorating juiciness 

prolonged by the freshness. A generous, stylish 

offering. 



THE AMAZING STRUCTURE OF THE VINEYARDS AROUND VALDOBBIADENE. 


129

ITALY - VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE D.O.C.G. 


WONDERFUL VIEWS ACROSS THE PROSECCO HILLS IN AUTUMN. 


D EXTRA DRY MAS DE FER - RIVE DI SOLIGO 

2021: Vivid golden yellow. Nose of great finesse 

with touches of lemons and white peaches, floral 

scents and a touch of toast. Then a fresh, rich 

wine in the mouth with full, clear flavours and 

invigorating freshness. Fleshy finish. A fine 

sparkler for food. 



FOLLADOR 90/100 

D BRUT RIVE DI COL SAN MARTINO NANI 

DEI BERTI 2022: Very pale yellow colour. 

Delicate nose with floral and fruity accents and 

a subtle mineral undertone. Beautiful texture 

and great freshness with a distinctive, lingering 

finish. 

http://www.folladorprosecco.com Price: € 15.90 

Follador Prosecco +39 0438 898 222 

LA REGGENZA 90/100 

D EXTRA BRUT RIVE DI FARRA DI SOLIGO 

2022: Almost colourless appearance, green 

tints, tiny bubbles. Engaging nose of whitefleshed 

fruit, balsamic and mentholated notes. 

Fruit-focused on the palate, in line with the 

nose. A tasty, refreshing Prosecco finishing with 

a touch of salinity. 

https://www.vinilareggenza.it/ Price: € 15.00 

La Reggenza di Bissiato Paolo +39 0438 476 971 


D EXTRA DRY RIVE DI COLBERTALDO 

2022: Light golden color, brilliant reflections, 

extremely fine bubbles. Engaging nose with 

white fruits and flowers, touches of toasted 

brioche, vegetal undertones. Thirst-quenching 

mouthfeel, refreshing finish. Elegant extra dry 

to drink as an aperitif. 


Val d’Oca +39 0423 982 070 


D BRUT RIVE DI SAN PIETRO DI BARBOZZA 

2022: Brilliant pale yellow color, silver 

reflections, very fine bubbles. Open nose with 

aromas of white fruits, citrus fruits, and notes of 

pastry and cut hay. Tart mouth, consistent with 

the nose, straight evolution in a very dry style. 

Serve as an aperitif. 


Val d’Oca +39 0423 982 070 


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