GG_N55_Complet_AFS-web

SWARTLAND 

NATIVO WINES: LOYAL TO PLACE, NOT STYLE 

Kiki Hughes, Co-Owner 

and Head of Business Development 

of Nativo Wines 

SPRING 2024 

L 19045 - 55 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

PAGES 103-114 

OUR SPRING SELECTIONS: 

SANCERRE - CREMANT D’ALSACE – 

GERMANY – ITALY – SOUTH 

AFRICA – SOUTH AMERICA

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

10 

24 

42 

7 

News 

10 

Markets 

Sancerre, an appellation 

in its prime 

24 

Style 

Crémants d’Alsace play 

to their strengths 

32 

Evolution 

• Frederico Falcáo: 

“Portuguese wines are 

a world of difference 

• How Portugal has 

achieved outstanding 

international success 

42 

Terroir 

Revolution to Evolution: 

Charting the Future of 

Swartland Wines 

52 

Importers 

The way to a German 

wine drinker’s heart 

60 

Focus 

Juan Pablo Cantos, the 

inspired winemaker at 

Bodegas Piqueras 

64 

Terroir 

Piedmont: 

A kaleidoscope of grape 

varieties and vineyard 

sites 

74 

Appellation 

Roussette, Savoy’s star 

grape variety 

82 

Focus 

Prosit Group: 

From nought to sixty 

(markets) in five years 

86 

Discovery 

South America goes sparkling 

96 

Importer 

Classic Beverage, a focus on 

sustainability and artisan wines 

98 

Stars & wine 

Lily Collins: women have taken 

ownership of wine 

100 

Contact details 

102 

Spring selection 2024 

Sancerre - Crémant d’Alsace - 

Germany - Italy - South Africa - 

South America 

Subscription form 

Find out more about our 

subscription offers on page 23 

Gilbert & Gaillard next issue: 

Summer 2024 

COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

74 

SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

SOUTH AMERICA AND ITS SPARKLING 

ITERATIONS 

The South American wine industry is primarily represented 

worldwide by Argentina and Chile, which 

account for 80% of production. Uruguay and Brazil are 

also important contributors, even though Brazil exports 

very few of its wines. The iconic bottlings produced by 

three of these countries, which have long carved out a 

place for themselves in the global marketplace, are very 

much front of mind. Chilean Carmenere, Argentinean 

Malbec and Uruguayan Tannat have found favour with 

lovers of tannins and aromatic length. Alongside these, 

however, is a more boutique range of wines that rarely 

make their way into the spotlight – sparkling wines. 

One of the most dynamic segments in the wine trade, 

global sparkling wine production has marginally 

increased over the past few years. It averages at around 

18 million hectolitres in volume, equating to just over 

2.5 billion bottles. In actual fact, the increase in sparkling 

wine production mirrors the overall trend for global wine 

production. Its share accounts for around 7% of world 

wine production and has remained unchanged for the 

past few years. 

It may just be that South American sparkling wines are 

one of the next big things to come out of the region, 

which is why we went to take a closer look, in Argentina 

of course, but also in Uruguay and more surprisingly, in 

Ecuador. As you will see from our report (page 114), some 

South American sparkling wines certainly compare very 

favourably with their counterparts around the globe. 

4 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

PORTUGAL, A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE 

Portugal is now very much up there in the big international 

league. The days when locals drank virtually all 

of the country’s wines, bar a few thousand hectolitres of 

Port – a popular tipple with the English and the French 

– are now long gone. 

The inception of the Portuguese wine trade organisation, 

officially recognised by a Ministry of Agriculture decree, 

marked a turning point in 1996. Local appellations were 

then harmonised with EU legislation, cementing the 

quality policy of Portuguese wines. The regional wine 

commissions followed shortly after and would play a 

fundamental part in developing the quality and prestige 

of Portuguese wines, which boast 31 appellations and 12 

geographical indications. Concurrently with this, a new 

generation of producers and winemakers were trained in 

Portuguese universities, further enhancing the standard 

and consistency of Portuguese wines. 

This appetite for export has been fuelled by a number of 

very favourable factors, including myriad native grape 

varieties whose popularity in international markets has 

not waned. Portugal and its weather also act as a magnet 

for holidaymakers, drawing many wine enthusiasts 

to the country. Similarly, its very competitive pricing 

compared with its well-established European counterparts 

is an advantage, as is the fierce determination to 

secure international endorsement for the nation’s wines 

and to continue to ramp up quality. There is no denying 

that Portugal’s gamble is paying off! 


5

EDITORIAL 

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

SANCERRE, OR THE TRUE FLAVOUR 

OF THE EARTH 

In some ways, Sancerre is a condensed version of the 

French concept of terroir. Its landscape is distinctive 

with the village clustered around the top of a hillside 

crowned with flint pebbles that have survived erosion for 

several thousands of centuries. Here, geologists refer to 

an inversion of relief where the softer surrounding marl 

and limestone have been eroded whilst the harder flint 

has protected the land on the Sancerre hill-top. 

The hills west of the village cover Jurassic limestone and 

marl sediment and form steep inclines with small valleys 

like the one in Chavignol scooped from their midst. The 

asymmetrical shape of the landform is described as a 

cuesta and there is no denying that the area’s geological 

history has shaped the current topography, forming a 

home for just over 3,000 bearing hectares, 80% of which 

produce white Sauvignon wines. 

The unique chemistry between the vineyard sites and 

the climate coupled with this exceptional geology and 

the multiple layers of soils – terres blanches, caillottes 

and clay-silica referred to as flint – are what make the 

vineyards of Sancerre so complex. That complexity is 

further enhanced by many other factors, including 

aspect, incline and vine age. 

All of which provides additional proof of vines’ incredible 

ability to display myriad personas and to render so many 

nuances under a single banner – in this case Sancerre – 

from a single grape variety for each of the three colours. 

As the French author Colette*, who was born 50 km from 

Sancerre, once said: “In the plant kingdom, only vines can 

teach us the true flavour of the earth”. 

*Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette, known as Colette, was a French author, 

actress and journalist born on 28 January 1873 in Saint-Sauveur-en- 

Puisaye (Yonne). 


NEWS 

WINE TASTING UNDER THE STARS AT CHENONCEAU 

SATURDAY 20 JULY 2024 

Every summer, on the third Saturday in July, the chateau gardens, main courtyard and iconic gallery host this unique wine tasting 

which is the largest wine tourism event in the Loire Valley. 

Visitors can discover wines by wineries in AOC Touraine- 

Chenonceaux whose winegrowers are delighted to share their 

passion and will be celebrating the appellation’s tenth an niversary 

this year. It is an outstanding opportunity to taste their 

reds – blended from Côt and Cabernet Franc – and their whites, 

made from Sauvignon, in a majestic, floodlit setting conducive 

to strolling the grounds, glass in hand, from 9pm to midnight 

and sometimes even later! 

The chateau’s gourmet Orangerie restaurant is 

specially open for the occasion with a Food & 

Wine Pairing menu. Booking is required. 

https://www.chenonceau.com/ 

Photo : © leonard de serres 

DOMAINE 

EDMOND CORNU 

2022 

DOMAINE 

MILLET 

2022 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR SPRING 

2024 

LADOIX 

39,70 € 

ANGELICA DE GABBIA 

CAVAVIN ROGNAC 

7 avenue du Général de Gaulle 

13340 ROGNAC 

+33 4 42 41 26 38 

rognac@cavavin.fr 

CHÂTEAU 

LA LOUVIÈRE 

2016 

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 

39,90€ 

DANIEL MATHIEU 

CAVAVIN SAINT-MARTIN-D’HÈRES 

7 rue Charles Darwin 

38400 SAINT-MARTIN-D’HÈRES 

+33 4 76 62 38 35 

st-martin@cavavin.fr 

PETIT-CHABLIS 

14,40€ 

AMBROISE DIETERLE 

CAVAVIN SARLAT LA CANEDA 

46 avenue Gambetta 

24200 SARLAT LA CANEDA 

+33 5 53 29 15 61 

sarlat@cavavin.fr 

JEAN PERRIER 

Fleur dAltesse 2022 

ROUSSETTE DE SAVOIE - MONTHOUX 

13,50€ 

NICOLAS DOUMERC 

CAVAVIN LIMOURS 

9 rue de Rambouillet 

91470 LIMOURS 

+33 1 83 63 93 96 

limours@cavavin.fr 


7

NEWS 

A TALE OF TWO TERROIRS 

In this case, it is Cognac’s Grande Champagne and Arturo Fuente from the Dominican Republic, both of them home to two 

remarkable products, brought even closer together by the maturation of this Anejo N°46 format in Cognac barrels. 

It isn’t often our panel reaches such unanimous agreement so quickly in our special cigar-focused tastings. 

And we felt that with such a rewarding experience, we had to share the pleasure as soon as possible. 

THE CIGAR 

Arturo Fuente - Anejo N° 46 - Price: € 27.50 (FRA) 

Very dark, shiny wrapper. The smoke is effective right from the start. The style is harmonious with dried fruit 

aromatics, turning slightly more robust towards the middle of the smoke. Persistent roasted finish. This is a 

satisfying cigar showing restraint. 

THE BRANDY 

94/100 Cognac Drouet - XO Ulysse - Price: € 110 (FRA) 

Deep coppery colour with mahogany tints. The nose gradually emerges, driven by 

perfumes of precious wood, bordering on exotic. Right from the attack the palate 

shows great finesse and becomes increasingly powerful with a perfumed, silky feel. 

A stellar pour! 

The overall assessment: Truly effective with measured complexity, very palatable. 

The pairing: Remarkable with this XO Ulysse by Maison Drouet that proves to be 

very cooperative. The two companions share a honed sense of 

harmony and restraint that leads straight to a calming sensation 

and therefore to enjoyment. 

http://www.cognac-drouet.fr 

GOSSET 2016: THE FINEST PEDIGREE 

Gosset has unveiled its latest Grand Millésime which has been maturing 

since the unrivalled 2016 vintage, a year marked by very distinctive weather conditions. 

Cool, damp weather prevailed initially, followed by a hot, dry end to the season. This is a unique, elegant, 

delicate wine showing structure, depth and fruitiness. The contrasting weather patterns ultimately provided 

ideal conditions for crafting fine Champagne. It is both very different to its 2015 predecessor yet also very 

complementary. The 2016 was bottled in June 2017 with 4g dosage per litre and successfully 

balances freshness, fruit and vinosity whilst also preserving the integrity of the wine and 

its pureness, the hallmarks of Maison Gosset. 

Recommended retail price of €82 at all good wine merchants and direct-to-consumer at 

+33 3 26 56 99 56 

https://www.champagne-gosset.com/ 


HONG KONG 

28 

MAY 

2024 


VINEXPOASIA.COM 

#VINEXPOASIA 

9

SANCERRE, AN APPELLATION 

IN ITS PRIME 

BY CAMILLE BERNARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY 

OF THE ESTATES 

Sitting high on its hillside, Sancerre keeps a watchful eye over the surrounding 

countryside with the quiet fortitude shared by the top appellations. This 

iconic wine region in the Centre-Loire region, renowned for its Sauvignon 

varietals, embodies a fascinating dichotomy – the simplicity of an 

internationally-renowned white wine appellation counterbalanced by an 

often underestimated tapestry of vineyard sites. In this feature report, we take 

a deep dive into Sancerre, exploring its quintessential traits, its modern-day 

challenges and the way in which this storied appellation continues to reinvent 

itself, fascinating both novices and connoisseurs alike. 

VINEYARDS BELONGING TO DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 


LOIRE VALLEY 

MARKETS 

AN AERIAL VIEW OF SANCERRE 

For the average layperson, Sancerre, perched on the uplands of the Loire Valley, refers to a 

globally renowned white wine. And yet, across the rolling hills of the Centre-Loire region, 

Sauvignon blanc – the variety which made Sancerre famous – lives happily alongside Pinot 

noir. Covering 3,025 hectares spanning 14 villages, Sancerre is not just an appellation – it is a 

mosaic of vineyard sites where the terres blanches or white soils sit alongside the ‘caillottes’ 

(pebbles) and clay-silica soils to craft an incredible array of wines. 

As early as Antiquity, vines were already an established feature of the landscape and down 

through the centuries, Sancerre has carved out a place for itself as the head of the family of 

Centre-Loire wines, securing appellation status for its whites in 1936 and for its reds and rosés 

in 1959. The freshness and finesse of its white wines have won acclaim among consumers 

the world over, but a more limited circle of insiders marvel at the complexity and depth of 

its reds and rosés which encapsulate both craftsmanship and a fine-tuned knowledge of the 

vineyard sites. But with celebrity and recognition now a given, how does Sancerre manage 

to maintain the same level of excellence, innovate whilst showing respect for tradition, and 

meet the needs of a consumer audience that is increasingly informed and demanding? This 

report offers a behind-the-scenes look at the most famous Centre-Loire appellation, a chance 

to discover its vineyard sites and the men and women who farm them, and a peek at their 

strategy for remaining at the very pinnacle of the world’s wine industry. 

DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER: 

“SANCERRE IS A STRONG BRAND NAME” 

In the heart of one of Centre-Loire’s iconic wine villages, Bué, Domaine Jean-Max Roger 

offers a quintessential rendition of winegrowing expertise that has been passed down 


11

LÉGENDES 

JEAN-MAX ROGER AND HIS SONS 

ETIENNE AND THIBAULT 

through the generations. Since 2005, it has been run by Thibault and Etienne Roger. 

“Our vineyards extend over 35 hectares, 29 of which are in the Sancerre appellation 

area”, explains Thibault Roger. 

Although the winery has always produced a range of wines, the new generation has 

remodelled its collection around terroir-driven offerings and introduced site-designated 

wines. “This meant we had to work a little harder to inform our customers 

about this type of wine”, admits Thibault, “but the approach enables us to enhance 

the specific characteristics of our vineyard sites. It’s our signature style”. And the 

vineyard sites certainly warrant this attention to detail. They are spread over the 

three main Sancerre soil types – flint, ‘terres blanches’ and ‘caillottes’ – thereby offering 

an incredible variety of soils, aspects and inclines. 

The winery’s international success, with over 85% of its wines sold in export markets, 

is a testament to the global appetite for wines that tell a story, that of their land. But 

according to Thibault Roger, this is not the only explanation: he ascribes the winery’s 

marketing success to a vision that began with his grandfather in the 1980s when he 

launched a trading business to ensure the company’s future. This allows the estate 

to produce enough volume to grow its international footprint. Although the export 

market for rosé wines has experienced some saturation recently, the winery has 

offset this with increased demand for its reds. Similarly, although Sancerre faces 

international competition, particularly from New Zealand with its distinctive Sauvignon 

blancs, Thibault remains confident: “Sancerre is a strong brand name”. 

The brothers are fully aware of present-day environmental challenges and began 

introducing innovative techniques at the start of the 2010s. New ground cover 

techniques and the use of green manure as natural soil amendments have been 

introduced, underscoring the Roger family’s proactive approach to sustainable 

winegrowing. 


LOIRE VALLEY 

MARKETS 

DOMAINE PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT: 

“SANCERRE’S TERROIR REMAINS 

UNIQUE” 

PERRINE AND PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT IN THEIR VINEYARDS 

Perrine Raimbault, who works in tandem with her 

father Philippe, encapsulates the promising future 

of this namesake family-owned winery perched 

amidst the rolling landscapes of the Centre-Loire 

region. From her forbears, she has inherited 

time-honoured skills and is proud and committed 

to be a custodian of the family heritage that has 

been passed down over several generations. The 

vineyards are divided between the prestigious 

appellations of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Coteaux 

du Giennois. Their soils boast unique geological 

diversity and offer each grape variety the opportunity 

to display unique traits. 

“From a very early age, I would help my 

grandparents”, recalls Perrine. The farm has undergone 

significant changes since her childhood, 

though, mainly with the purchase of vineyards 

in Pouilly and Coteaux du Giennois at the end of 

the 1980s. More recently, after Perrine joined her 

father, a winery was rebuilt which now means that 

terroir-driven labels can be crafted, “to produce 

wines with the ability to express their differences”, 

she explains. 

The vineyard blocks located on lovely ‘terres 

blanches’ soils in the Sancerre appellation area, 

which benefit from a unique microclimate promoting 

moderate fruit ripening, make this approach 

totally worthwhile. “Here, the ripening process 

is less advanced than in other areas so our wines 

remain naturally fresh. This also means that we 

don’t particularly suffer in hot vintages”, explains 

Perrine. She also adds, though, that the family is 

extremely mindful to protect the environment by 

maintaining hedges and trees. 

A dozen or so hectares are earmarked for production 

of Sancerre wines, 90% of them white with a 

balance of red and rosé. Export markets account for 

65% of the winery’s sales, with the USA and England 

spearheading the list of export destinations. 

Perrine aims to educate her customers about the 

added benefits of lengthy maturation for Sancerre 

wines, and has chosen not to add yeast to them. 

PERRINE AND PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT WORK HAND IN HAND 

IN THE FAMILY-RUN WINERY 


13

LOIRE VALLEY 

MARKETS 

MATHILDE AND VINCENT NATTER HAVE SKILFULLY TAKEN 

OVER THE FAMILY ESTATE 

“To be honest, Sancerre white wines are known as 

early-drinking wines, but that is not my cup of tea”, 

she admits. 

Despite competition from Chablis and New World 

Sauvignon blancs, she remains confident: “There 

is a wide variety of commercially available Sauvignons 

but the terroir in Sancerre is unique”. Her 

viewpoint only bolsters the family’s determination 

to preserve the identity and excellence of its wines, 

that continue to reflect the tradition and innovation 

that defines their approach. 

DOMAINE HENRY NATTER: 

“A STRONG, COLLABORATIVE 

EFFORT TO UPHOLD 

THE REPUTATION OF OUR WINES” 

DOMAINE HENRY NATTER’S VINEYARDS IN THE VILLAGE OF MONTIGNY 

Nestled in the picturesque village of Montigny, 

Domaine Henry Natter was founded in 1974 by 

Cécile and Henry Natter. Their children Mathilde 

and Vincent are now in the saddle and are continuing 

to build on the family’s achievements with 

the same passion and determination. Since its 

inception, the winery has stood out for its pioneering 

mindset: “Sancerre has experienced strong 

growth internationally and credit should be given to 

all those who helped achieve this”, stresses Mathilde 

Natter. She particularly admires the trailblazing role 

played by her mother in developing export sales of 

Sancerre at the turn of the 1980s. 

The family vineyards are established on the clay-limestone 

soils that make Montigny unique and 

they produce wines that combine complexity and 

minerality. “The balance in our wines stems from 

the tension instilled by the limestone soils and 

depth is imparted by the clayey sites”, explains 

Vincent Natter. This dual personality is what lends 

Domaine Henry Natter its distinctive and highly 

valued identity. 

The challenges posed by climate change have 

prompted the winery to adapt by honing its winemaking 

techniques to preserve the hallmark freshness 

of its white wines. Vincent also stresses the 

importance of harvesting healthy fruit to maintain 

consistent quality in the wines. 


HARVESTING AT CÔTE 

DE BUÉ 

THE ENTIRE NATTER FAMILY 

THE WINERY AT DOMAINE 

LA BARBOTAINE OFFERS 

MODERN WINEMAKING 

FACILITIES 


15

LOIRE VALLEY 

MARKETS 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE LA BARBOTAINE 

Around 80% of the wines are shipped abroad and 

both brother and sister have witnessed growing 

interest in their red and rosé Sancerres, highlighting 

the change in tastes and expectations among 

international consumers. “We are really seeing a 

new trend with red Sancerre which is carving out 

a prime position in our different export markets, 

whilst our Sancerre rosés are resonating with wine 

enthusiasts”, explains Vincent Natter. By way of a 

conclusion, he says: “There is competition for our 

wines from those produced around the world but 

this drives us to constantly make improvements. 

Each Sancerre is unique though and there is a 

strong, collaborative effort to uphold the reputation 

of our wines”. 

DOMAINE LA BARBOTAINE: 

“YOU SHOULD NEVER REST ON 

YOUR LAURELS” 

FRÉDÉRIC AND SYLVIE CHAMPAULT, OWNERS OF DOMAINE LA BARBOTAINE 

Set in the heart of Crézancy, Domaine La Barbotaine 

offers a vibrant tribute to the family heritage 

perpetuated by Frédéric Champault and his wife 

Sylvie. The winery is imbued with a history of winegrowing 

spanning the generations and is the perfect 

illustration of the commitment and passion that 

drive the Champaults. Since he began working on 

the farm in 1994, Frédéric Champault has not only 

been successful in preserving this heritage, but also 

in enhancing it. 

With 18 hectares of Sauvignon blanc and Pinot noir 

vines, the vineyard is home to a distinctive mosaic 

of vineyard sites, equally divided between ‘terres 

blanches’, ‘caillottes’ and red soils which lend the 

wines their finesse and fruitiness along with a 

unique signature style. This geological diversity is a 

constant source of inspiration for the Champaults 

who strive to produce wines that reflect the variety 

and complexity of these soils. 

Frédéric Champault recalls how far the winery has 

come since its original 6 hectares under vine, pointing 

to its ambitious growth curve: “My parents only 

farmed 6 hectares and produced very few bottled 

wines. Sylvie and I have expanded bottle sales and 

exports, which now account for approximately 80% 


LOIRE VALLEY 

MARKETS 

of total sales. The wines are shipped to around 15 

countries”. 

Sylvie stresses the significance of quality and environmentally-friendly 

production methods: “We are 

mindful to produce quality wines by using efficient 

vineyard management techniques and by revamping 

our winemaking facilities. Every year, we 

question the way we work”. 

The winery’s HVE certification and use of grass 

cover for nearly half of its area under vine reflect 

the environmentally-friendly approach taken by the 

couple, who also share the same vision. “You should 

never rest on your laurels and always try and make 

headway”, is Sylvie’s steadfast belief. This quest for 

excellence meshes with the robust reputation of 

Sancerre – which Sylvie admits “does not need to 

chase after markets to sell its wines” – positioning 

Domaine La Barbotaine as a benchmark producer 

of Sancerre wines. 

KARINE, CHRISTIAN AND KÉVIN LAUVERJAT AT THEIR FAMILY-RUN 

PROPERTY MOULIN DES VRILLÈRES 

KÉVIN AND CHRISTIAN LAUVERJAT IN THEIR VINEYARDS 

DOMAINE MOULIN DES 

VRILLÈRES: “COPING WITH THE 

CHALLENGES OF THE GLOBAL 

MARKETPLACE” 

Domaine Moulin des Vrillères is located on the 

outskirts of the picturesque market village of 

Sury-en-Vaux. Here, Christian Lauverjat, his 

wife Karine and their son Kévin continue to build 

on the family’s winegrowing traditions. The 

13-hectare vineyard stretches majestically over 

‘terres blanches’ and ‘caillottes’ soils producing a 

range of Sancerre wines that mirrors the appellation’s 

diversity and varied geology. 

Karine Lauverjat is the winery’s marketing 

mainstay. She recounts a major turning point in 

its history: “Frost in 2005 convinced us that we 

should establish a trading business because all 

of our vineyard blocks were badly affected”. The 

initiative not only offered a life-line for the winery, 

it also expanded its portfolio by introducing wines 

from Menetou-Salon and Pouilly. 

On the farm, a constant quest for quality guides 

every decision: “Our vineyard sites are predominantly 

home to ‘terres blanches’ soils but we have 


17

PASCAL JOULIN DEVOTES 

TIME TO HIS VINEYARDS 


LOIRE VALLEY 

MARKETS 

two blocks of ‘caillottes’ from which we make the single vineyard ‘Perle Blanche’ 

label”, explains Karine. Their meticulous approach to winemaking is also mirrored 

in their environmental management – four years ago they stopped using chemical 

weedkillers and drastically reduced the use of plant protection products in favour 

of algae. 

In addition to their exemplary vineyard management techniques, their wines have 

garnered success in export markets: “Fifteen years ago, 50% of our wines were 

shipped abroad. That share has now risen to 80%”, says Karine, who adds: “The 

United States in particular stand out as a destination due to growing demand for 

white wines and for Sancerre reds and rosés. This demonstrates not only our versatility 

but also the winery’s increased appeal in the international marketplace”. 

The winery’s success does not just hinge on its ability to innovate and adapt to cope 

with the challenges of the global market. By acquiring a 500 m2 shop in the village of 

Sancerre, it has provided a showcase for Moulin des Vrillères and its world, inviting 

enthusiasts and passing visitors to discover their extensive range of wines. 

DOMAINE MICHEL VATTAN: “ENHANCING VALUE IS 

ESSENTIAL AND TO DO THAT, YOU NEED SALES” 

Located in Maimbray, in the village of Sury-en-Vaux, Domaine Michel Vattan is a 

family-run winery that has successfully evolved over four generations. It is now 

under the enlightened management of Pascal Joulin who joined it in 2002 and took 

ON-STREAM VINEYARDS HAVE RISEN FROM 2 HECTARES TO OVER 9 HECTARES AT DOMAINE MICHEL VATTAN 


19

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE 

MICHEL VATTAN NOW FARMED 

BY PASCAL JOULIN 

it over in 2008, totally transforming the winery. “Originally, all the wines were sold to 

trading companies, none of them were bottled”, explains Pascal Joulin. Since then, 

introduction of bottled sales has ushered in a new era and allowed Joulin’s wines to 

travel outside France. 

The transition has gone hand in hand with a significant expansion in vineyard acreage. 

Rising from 2 to over 9 hectares, the vineyards now embrace a broader range of sites, 

thereby enhancing the range of wines illustrating Sancerre’s rich tapestry of terroirs. 

Concurrently with this, Pascal Joulin has poured vast amounts of energy into promoting 

his wines, attending dozens of exhibitions – both trade and for the general public 

– from Paris to ProWein and Vinexpo Asia where he will be travelling this year. 

Joulin’s approach to promoting and marketing his wines revolves around a robust 

strategy of international growth. His strategy has paid off - 80% of the wines are 

now sold in export markets, with a particular focus on the United States where he 

immediately and successfully “found the right partners. Being a winegrower is a 

major venture, both from a people and a financial perspective. International growth 

stems from extremely hard work aimed at establishing strong relationships with your 

partners. Enhancing value is essential and to do that, you need sales”. 

In 15 years, Joulin has been so successful at promoting his wines that he now works on 

an allocation basis. The technique allows him to spend time in his vineyards, which 

he farms using environmentally-friendly methods. 

A self-described “opportunist” in the vineyard, he takes the same approach in his 

winery, crafting remarkable Sancerre wines. These include a single-vineyard selection 

with partial maturation in Chassagne-Montrachet barrels, along with a wine made 

from old vines over 80 years old that is matured in amphorae. 


LOIRE VALLEY 

MARKETS 

On every level, Pascal Joulin epitomises the ambition 

and revitalised approach taken by Sancerre 

winegrowers, embracing the opportunities 

afforded by a global marketplace whilst also preserving 

the authenticity and quality of his wines. 

CHANEL AND HER FATHER PASCAL GITTON IN THEIR BARREL CELLAR 

VIGNOBLES GITTON PÈRE & 

FILS: “OUR CUSTOMERS LOVE 

OUR HISTORY, OUR INTEREST IN 

TERROIR AND OUR IDENTITY” 

Founded in 1945 by Marcel Gitton with just over an 

acre of vineyards, Vignobles Gitton Père & Fils have 

undergone a remarkable period of expansion and 

now boast 36 hectares under vine. Run by Pascal 

Gitton, with the support of his daughter Chanel 

and wife Denise, the estate continues to excel for its 

commitment to vineyard management techniques 

that treat the soils of Sancerre with respect and lend 

each of the winery’s labels their signature identity. 

Chanel Gitton admires the accomplishments of 

her predecessors and pays tribute to the visionary 

approach of her grandfather: “He truly blazed the 

trail for single-vineyard winemaking and would 

hive off blocks even back then based on their locality 

before vinting them separately in barrels”. 

Although the technique is challenging from a logistics 

perspective, it has enabled the winery to stand 

out for its dozen white wine labels, each of which 

shows site-expressiveness. 

“We really do this for pleasure”, admits Chanel, 

“because having so many labels is not the easiest 

tack to take and we don’t need to do this to raise 

awareness of Sancerre. But people like it. Our 

customers love our history, our interest in terroir 

and our identity”. 

Her comments are borne out by the wines’ reputation 

which extends way beyond national borders 

– 70% of them are shipped abroad to no fewer than 

45 countries. 

In this instance, Chanel ascribes the winery’s 

success to her father’s fascination for other 

cultures. In the 1970s, his passion led him to explore 

new markets, particularly Sweden, making him a 

pioneer in exports of Sancerre to the countries of 

MARCEL GITTON WAS PASSIONATE ABOUT VINES AND TERROIR 


21

LOIRE VALLEY 

MARKETS 

PASCAL GITTON PIONEERS EXPORTS OF SANCERRE WINES 

Northern Europe. “Even now, my father still spends a lot of time canvassing new 

markets”, adds Chanel, pointing to the winery’s relentless commitment to maintaining 

its reputation and standing out in a crowded and competitive marketplace. 

Its white wines sell effortlessly – “despite competition from German and Spanish 

whites” stresses Chanel Gitton – but its red Sancerre has also fuelled Vignobles 

Gitton’s success. “It can compete with Burgundy Pinot noir in terms of accessibility”, 

she concludes. 

NURTURING ITS REPUTATION 

As the figurehead of Centre-Loire appellations, Sancerre’s reputation has long been 

established. Despite this, its winegrowers continue to demonstrate their ability to 

promote their vineyard sites so that they can consolidate their existing markets and 

conquer new ones. They most certainly do not take their international acclaim for 

granted. The men and women interviewed in this report foster diversity, proving 

that even when faced with international competition they can reinvent themselves 

whilst preserving their heritage, in addition to crafting the Sauvignon blanc wines 

that have ensured (and continue to ensure) celebrity status for Sancerre wines. The 

Sancerre appellation is both timeless yet squarely focused on the future, ultimately 

demonstrating an admirable ability to grow its reputation. 


5 covers: France, Spain, Italy, South Africa, South America 

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CRÉMANTS D’ALSACE 

PLAY TO THEIR STRENGTHS 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 



Crémants d’Alsace have been fashionable for a number of years and have 

achieved a skilful combination of outstanding vineyard sites and remarkable 

craftsmanship. Stemming from rigorous production procedures, the wines 

offer an appealing alternative to the legendary Champagne. 

CLOS DU ZAHNACKER WHICH BELONGS TO CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ 


ALSACE 

STYLE 

VINEYARDS AROUND DAMBACH-LA-VILLE 

Only one major French wine region has successfully bridged the gap between internationally 

renowned white wines and quality sparklers for pleasure. Renowned and lauded 

for its iconic white varietals – Gewurtztraminer, Riesling, Sylvaner and Pinot gris for example 

– Alsace is also the home of a star-studded line-up of sparkling wines that are well worth discovering. 

The region boasts a propitious climate with hot weather in the summer, fairly sunny 

autumns and an unrivalled variety of geological formations. Aiming to produce radiant, racy 

and fruity wines, growers harvest relatively early to preserve the vibrancy and brightness of 

the crisp fruit. Crémants d’Alsace are usually blended from a number of grape varieties like 

Pinot blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and Auxerrois. However the single varietals are increasingly 

popular, made from cultivars like Riesling and Pinot gris, along with rosés and ‘blancs de 

noirs’ that are single varietal Pinot noir. They show great finesse and balance, adding charming 

mineral accents to a magical array of fruit aromatics and naturally articulate terroir characters. 

We have chosen a selection of examples that offer the perfect showcase for the qualities of wines 

that never go out of fashion. 

CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ: AN ODE TO TRADITION 

Its church, its three castles and its 13 th -century tower draw both holidaymakers and wine enthusiasts 

to Ribeauvillé. Located at the entrance to the mediaeval village, the Ribeauvillé winery 

is a popular watering hole. Established in 1895, France’s oldest co-operative winery embraces 

246 hectares of outstanding vineyard sites. As per its quality charter, the fruit is picked by hand, 


25

GUILLAUME KESTER, A GRAPE GROWER IN RIBEAUVILLÉ 

YVES BALTENWECK, CHAIRMAN OF THE RIBEAUVILLÉ WINERY AND ÉVELYNE 

BLÉGER-COGNACQ, ITS WINEMAKER 

HENRI WINDHOLTZ, A GRAPE GROWER WHO BELONGS TO THE 

RIBEAUVILLÉ WINERY 

a tight rein is kept on yields and the vineyards are farmed sustainably or organically. Sparkling 

wines account for 40% of production and span five different labels: Crémants Giersberger, a 

blend of Pinot blanc and Auxerrois; Giersberger Rosé single varietal Pinot noir; Giersberger 

Chardonnay; Crémant Bio, blended from Pinot blanc, Auxerrois, Pinot gris and Riesling; and 

the Grande Cuvée, a solera-style wine made from Pinot noir and Chardonnay. “All of them have 

Brut dosage to make them fresh and suitable for elegant gourmet foods”, comments communications 

manager Célia Langlois. “The production process involves selection at pressing, traditional 

method fermentation and ageing on the lees for at least 18 months, which is longer than 

appellation rules where 12 months are mandatory”. All of the wines are made from hand-picked 

fruit and undergo static settling and extended maturation. “Because of the size of our winery 

and our stringent standards, production costs are high”, explains managing director David 

Jaegle. “Our winery stands apart for its level of recognition, the quality of the wines and our 

positive image which paves the way for export development”. 

MAISON ZOELLER: POWERFUL AROMAS 

The typical timber-framed houses line the labyrinthine streets, some of which overlook the 

Bruche canal built in 1681. Set in the heart of Wolxheim, Maison Zoeller is home to an impressive 

17th-century press which stands as a testament to over four centuries of winemaking. The 

vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically and are certified Demeter. The winery’s 

Chardonnay-based Crémant is made from grapes grown in two blocks, one of which is located 

in Grand Cru Altenberg de Wolxheim and is matured for 30 months. The portfolio also includes 

traditional Crémants made from Pinot blanc and Pinot Auxerrois, and a Pinot noir-based rosé. 

“We are reaping the benefits of having focused our production on grape varieties geared to 

Crémants since the 1980s”, says Mathieu Zoeller, who joined the property in 1992 after studying 

viticulture. “So the dedicated vineyards are an average 25 to 30 years old and develop great 


MATHIEU ZOELLER DURING 

THE DOSAGE PHASE 


27

MATHIEU ZOELLER, HIS SON HECTOR AND WIFE 

CHRISTÈLE WHO JOINED THE ESTATE IN 2003 

THE RUHLMANN-SCHUTZ FAMILY 

aromas and body”. The property’s ethos has always revolved around producing ripe, healthy 

fruit, rather than relying on artifice in the winery. “The classic range is more fruit-driven”, adds 

Christèle Zoeller. “The percentage of Pinot blanc in the blend is high because the varietal is 

more delicate and more floral than Pinot Auxerrois which imparts ripe, slightly buttery notes”. 

LES VIGNOBLES RUHLMANN-SCHUTZ: 

THE HEIGHT OF FRESHNESS 

The history of this winery dates back to 1688. A Hungarian knight called Ruhlmann moved to 

Dambach-la-Ville and decided to grow vines. Down through the generations, winegrowing 

developed and there are now 40 hectares under vine. In 1994, the winery was given its current 

name. Laurence Ruhlmann, Christine and Jean-Victor Schutz left their jobs to join André 

Ruhlmann and establish Vignobles Ruhlmann-Schutz. The vineyards benefit from an outstanding 

location along the Rhine Valley, growing on the slopes of the Vosges at elevations 

ranging from 175 to 420 metres, where a geological fault line creates a variety of complex soils. 

The geographical distribution of the vines allows each variety to enjoy the most suitable site. 

Twenty percent of the wines are sparkling. “The fruit for our Crémants comes from vineyards 

on clay-limestone and sometimes granite soils”, explains export director Antoine Schutz. “The 

blend for our Crémant Brut is unique – it has a classic Pinot blanc Auxerrois base with a trace 

of Riesling for acidity and fruit input from the Pinot gris. These combine to promote maximum 

freshness”. Time spent on the lees for the Brut and Rosé Crémants is generally 12 months, 

rising to 18 months for the Extra Brut. “Obviously, we offer a great alternative to Champagne”, 

adds Schutz. “This is a real advantage in export markets which are demanding but growing”. 


THE 17 TH -CENTURY CELLAR DOOR TO THE WINERY AT DOMAINE WECK 

CLÉMENT WECK AND HIS WIFE JACQUELINE, WITH THEIR SON MATTHIEU AND HIS WIFE ISABELLE 

DOMAINE CLÉMENT ET MATTHIEU WECK: CRAFTMANSHIP AT WORK 

A coat of arms dating from 1696 acts as a symbol. The Weck family is one of the oldest lineages 

in Gueberschwihr, a village renowned for its timber-framed houses and its vineyards. Clément 

Weck, who was born in 1942, quite naturally perpetuated the family farm before abandoning mixed 

farming in 1973 in order to fully devote his time to growing grapes and bottling all of his wines. In 

1995, at the age of just 23, his son Matthieu joined him after studying viticulture and wine and spirits 

marketing. “Crémants account for 20% of our production”, he explains. “The fruit mostly comes 

from old vines with blends that vary depending on the desired wine style”. Artisanal techniques are 

used in the vineyard, where machine passes – which damage and compact the soil – are kept to a 

minimum. Picking the grapes by hand maximises cluster selection whilst at the same time showing 

respect for the soils and avoiding compaction. “Crémant is an alternative to Champagne”, concurs 

Clément Weck. “But it is also a competitor because although winemaking methods are similar, the 

price makes it more accessible to a wider audience. Our selection is increasingly comprehensive, 

ranging from zero dosage to Brut and Demi-Sec”. 

DOMAINE AIMÉ STENTZ: TYPICITY AND FLAVOUR 

Time has worked its magic in Wettolsheim. In 1919, Jacob Stentz bought a village inn here and 

turned it into a winery. For many years, the wines were sold in bulk, but in 1960, Aimé Stentz and 

his wife Angèle gave the winery a new lease of life by showcasing the vineyard sites and production 

processes. Fifth-generation winegrower Marc Stentz, their grandson, joined the winery for his 

first vintage in 2011. Since 2016, he has run the 13-hectare, organically farmed property. “Our four 


29

ALSACE 

STYLE 

JOCELYNE STENTZ AND HER SON MARC 

Crémants account for a quarter of our production”, 

explains Marc Stentz. “They are all different and 

display hallmark flavours and typicity that match 

consumer preferences”. The Crémant Brut Prestige 

is blended from 60% Pinot blanc, 25% Chardonnay 

and 15% Riesling. It is matured on the lees for 

18 months before being riddled then disgorged. The 

range includes the single varietal Pinot noir Crémant 

Brut Prestige rosé, the Crémant Chardonnay and the 

Cuvée Équinoxe. The Équinoxe label is harvested on 

the day of the autumnal equinox. It is made from 

50% Pinot blanc, which epitomises daytime, and 50% 

Pinot noir, which represents night time. “This fusion 

of day and night reveals two opposing forces which 

come together in a harmonious blend”, adds Stentz. 

“The wine offers an interplay between the sunlight, 

which imbues it with power, and the darkness of the 

winery which lends it its freshness and finesse. It is 

important to distinguish between Crémant d’Alsace 

and Champagne. They don’t necessarily come from 

the same types of soils, grape varieties or blends. We 

need to hold our heads high when it comes to our 

prestigious neighbours”. 

KUEHN ALSACE WINES: 

CONTINUITY OF STYLE 

WORK IN THE WINERY AT DOMAINE AIMÉ STENTZ 

Set in the heart of Alsace, Ammerschwihr unfurls 

its sun-blessed hills and uniquely shaped vineyard 

sites. Its varied soils are formed of granite, limestone 

and schist with a marly-limestone subsoil 

which promote outstanding wines, enhanced 

by winemaking rules that foster excellence and 

authenticity. The Kuehn trading company produces 

250,000 bottles a year of complex, quality sparkling 

wines. “We use 20% reserve wines to ensure continuity 

in the house style and erase vintage variation”, 

explains Timothée Boltz, the company’s managing 

director. “For the Crémant 1675, we prefer to extend 

the maturation period on the lees to 7 years. The 

aim is to make the wines more palate-friendly by 

softening acidities and offering complex, delicate 

wines where enjoyment is the primary focus”. The 

company has developed a range that resonates with 

consumer preferences, with a variety of sweetness 


ALSACE 

STYLE 

levels – Extra-Brut, Brut and Demi-Sec – whites 

and rosés, Chardonnay and Pinot noir grape varieties 

and organic farming techniques, where there 

is a style to suit every taste. “Depending on sales 

and markets, our aim is to anticipate maturation 

times on the lees which offer a genuine guarantee 

of quality”, adds technical and winemaking director 

Nicolas Garde. “The wines are mostly blended from 

Pinot blanc and Auxerrois grown over a broad range 

of complementary vineyard sites. Our Crémants 

have nothing to be ashamed of compared with 

Champagnes, as evidenced by the 80% surge in 

sales over three years. We have the potential to 

supply wines in the future whose quality continues 

to increase and which align with consumer trends”. 

HAVE A WINEGROWER’S BREAK AT DOMAINE KUEHN 

UNWAVERING SUCCESS 

The Crémant d’Alsace appellation was officialised by 

decree in 1976 and has established a place for itself as 

the most widely drunk sparkling wine for at-home 

consumption in France after Champagne. Legal 

specifications are strict and standards are stringent 

for the 500 producers that belong to the Crémant 

d’Alsace producers’ organisation, ensuring a high 

quality product. “Since the 1990s, sales have followed 

a constant, regular upward trend”, points out the 

organisation’s managing director Olivier Sohler. 

“Our sales have now reached 40 million bottles 

annually, 22% of them in export markets, with 

growth in Europe, Eastern European countries and 

the United States. The rate of growth can be ascribed 

mainly to consumer trends and reasonable pricing”. 

Sparkling wines in Alsace now boast a 33% share by 

volume, which is a record. “Our direct-to-consumer 

markets don’t compare us with other sparkling 

wines or Champagne because demand is specific”, 

stresses Mathieu Zoeller from Maison Zoeller. “What 

our local and non-local customers mostly want is a 

quality product with suitable pricing”. The popularity 

of the French industry has now filtered through 

to export markets across-the-board, with wines that 

align with consumer expectations around the world. 

Their success is undeniable. 

A FESTIVE OCCASION FOR THE STAFF AT KUEHN ALSACE WINES 


31

FREDERICO FALCÁO: “PORTUGUESE WINES 

ARE A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE” 

BY SYLVAIN PATARD 



We interviewed the chairman of Wines of Portugal, Frederico Falcáo, to gain 

a better understanding of the country’s wine scene and the major milestones 

in its recent development. 

FREDERICO FALCÁO 


PORTUGAL 

EVOLUTION 

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, FREDERICO FALCAO, SYLVAIN PATARD AND ETIENNE GAILLARD ON 

THE PORTUGUESE WINE PAVILION AT WINE PARIS 2024 

Gilbert & Gaillard: Will Wine Paris become more important to your 

strategy next year than say ProWein or will ProWein remain the seminal 

event for you? 

Frederico Falcáo: It’s the million dollar question! The trend I see is that Vinexpo-Wine 

Paris is growing and it’s becoming more international so it’s different 

to Vinexpo when it was in Bordeaux. Then, it was mostly French wines, now 

it’s not so much like that. It’s becoming more international, even in terms of 

buyers – a large percentage are buyers from outside France. Also, the trend we 

are seeing among producers, among our wine producers and people from all the 

other countries, is the same and that is that the fair is growing, and the trend 

is to disinvest a little in ProWein. So if you ask me, my perception is that Vinexpo-Wine 

Paris will become bigger than ProWein. I don’t know if it will take five 

or ten years, but my expectation is that it is going to be bigger than ProWein. 

G & G: In terms of visitors, which markets are producers looking for? 

F. F.: I would say all of them, because I’ve heard people talking about buyers from 

Cameroon in Africa, Ukraine, Japan, Russia, the United States and Canada, so 

every country. There’s a lot of people from outside France and outside Europe 

even, so I think it’s growing. That’s the big challenge for this fair – we are all 


33

NEARLY 150 PORTUGUESE 

EXHIBITORS ATTENDED 

WINE PARIS IN 2024 

trying to grow. Portugal is growing, Spain, Italy, maybe Chile’s coming in next 

year. A lot of exhibitors are growing, so the organisers need to capture more 

buyers, otherwise a lot of people will be showing their wines but no-one will be 

there to buy them. So the big challenge is to attract more buyers to the fair. But 

so far, they’ve been successful in bringing in a lot of people. That’s the trend I see. 

G & G: What are your thoughts on Italy? 

F. F.: Yes, Italy’s growing very fast, so next year they will have a big pavilion just 

for them. They are also disinvesting a lot in ProWein. I think this wine fair is 

doing very well and that it was a smart move to switch to Paris from Bordeaux. 

It’s nicer to be in Paris, the hotels are not as expensive as they were in Bordeaux 

or they are in Dusseldorf. It’s easier to fly into Paris than it is to other places 

and it’s more sexy, more attractive to come to Paris instead of Dusseldorf or 

Bordeaux. So it was a smart move and I think that’s an important part of the 

success and the growth of this event. 

G & G: Portuguese wine production has changed a lot over the past few years, 

with increased exports. Can you explain about this development? 

F. F.: We know that we export on average 47% of what we produce. So nowadays, 

almost half of our production is exported. Portugal has been producing wines 

since Roman times and even before then. But during the 20th century, we were 

closed and only focused on the domestic market. In the 1980s we didn’t export 

that much wine. Portuguese consumers drink a lot – we are the largest per capita 

wine consumers in the world – so we didn’t feel the need to export our wines 

and to show our wines to the world. And then suddenly, I would say in the 1980s 

and 1990s, we started to look outside of our country and try to export more of 

our wines. Thirty years ago, nobody knew about Portuguese wines, except for 


PORTUGAL 

EVOLUTION 

Port of course. But then when we started to show 

our wines to the world, and to demonstrate how 

different our wines are, because we have different 

grape varieties, native grape varieties, different 

terroirs, it was a surprise for everyone. And 

I think this explains some of the success of our 

exports. Also, we came together under the same 

logo, Wines of Portugal, and that helps communications 

a lot to explain our country and to 

create a mass image of Portugal. The third factor 

is tourism, which in Portugal increased very fast 

over the same period. That helps a lot because 

people visit Portugal, try the wines, are surprised 

by them and when they go back to their countries, 

they drink more Portuguese wines and talk 

about Portuguese wines to their friends. We see a 

very strong connection between tourism and our 

exports to those countries. 

TRELLISED VINHO VERDE VINEYARDS PROVIDE SHADE FOR AN AFTERNOON WALK 

G & G: How about the style of the wines? 

F. F.: I think we’re becoming more international 

because if you taste the wines from the 1970s or 

1980s in Portugal, they were different. Then when 

we started to look outside of our country, and the 

young generations who are now in their 40s and 

50s started to travel a lot and go to other wine 

regions to taste the wines and even work there, 

that made producers more open-minded. So they 

started to make wines using our own grapes but 

in a more international style, making them easier 

for consumers to like and understand. 

AUTUMN VINEYARDS IN THE MOUNTAINS AT ARRABIDA, SETUBAL, PORTUGAL 

G & G: What are the new markets for Portuguese 

wines? 

F. F.: We export all over the world of course, but 

as Wines of Portugal, we promote in 21 markets. 

Surprisingly, our main market for exports is 

France – it’s our number one market because 

of Port – then it’s the United States, UK, Brazil, 

Canada, Netherlands, Germany, and many 

others. These are the main markets but we export 

to almost every country around the world. 

G & G: Is domestic consumption still strong? 

F. F.: Domestic consumption is very strong. As 

Portuguese, we drink a lot of wine, but the very 


35

THE RIVER DOURO NEAR THE 

MOUTH OF THE RIVER COA 

high levels of consumption in Portugal are also due to tourism, because drinking 

wine in Portugal is not that expensive. In Lisbon it’s a little more expensive now 

due to tourism, but if you drive just half an hour inland and drink wine in a 

restaurant, you can get a good wine for 15 or 20 euros, and that does not exist 

elsewhere in Europe or the world. If you go to a small town near Lisbon or Oporto 

and you go to a nice restaurant, people are surprised by the prices and drink a lot. 

G & G: Is this why the wines are successful? 

F. F.: Yes, that’s why the total consumption in Portugal is very high. When you 

divide that between 10 million Portuguese people, you get a very high per capita 

consumption level, but it’s not just the Portuguese drinking the wine. 

G & G: What is the main message Wines of Portugal delivers? 

F. F.: Our main message is that Portugal is truly a world of difference. Every 

part of the country has a wine region and we have good wines in every region 

of Portugal, which normally does not exist in other countries. There is huge 

diversity. If you go to Vinho Verde, it’s a cool area with granite soils and high 

rainfall. It is more suited to white wines. Then you drive an hour to the Douro 

Valley, where the soils are schist, it is very hot, very dry, and the focus is more 

on red wines. If you go down to Dao, everything changes again. So there’s huge 

diversity in a very small country. There is also a great number of native grape 

varieties, which makes a difference. In a very small country we can produce all 

styles of wine, we have different terroirs and native grape varieties, so this is 

truly a world of difference. 


HOW PORTUGAL HAS ACHIEVED 

OUTSTANDING INTERNATIONAL 

SUCCESS 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

Last February, over 150 Portuguese exhibitors took part in the fifth Wine Paris 

& Vinexpo Paris, underscoring just how significant Portugal has become in 

the international wine arena. Long focused on their domestic market, the 

country’s wine producers have garnered global acclaim and exports have risen 

accordingly. Frederico Falcão, chairman of Wines of Portugal, along with 

representatives from three Portuguese companies explain how this small wine 

revolution came about. 

SUSTAINABLE FARMING TECHNIQUES ARE THE NORM IN THE VINEYARDS AT VICENTE FARIA, WHICH ARE DRY FARMED WITH NO FERTILISERS 


37

THE TEAM AT 

VICENTE FARIA 

Frederico Falcão and the winegrowers we met concur that there are several reasons 

behind booming Portuguese wine sales, but that the decision by producers over the 

past few years to embrace a more international style – without compromising on their 

inherent character – has made all the difference. Producers have begun crafting wines in 

a more modern style without turning their backs on their 250-plus native grape varieties 

– which certainly leaves plenty of scope for exploration. Neither have they shunned their 

time-honoured tradition of blends and other winemaking techniques, nor forgotten to 

showcase the extensive variety of Portuguese vineyard sites or terroirs, which can only be 

good news. 

VICENTE FARIA, OPTING FOR NATIVE GRAPES 

Paula Gamba from the marketing department of Douro company Vicente Faria – whose 

history spans an impressive two centuries – confirms that the winery has introduced no 

new grape varieties over the past few years. It has always focused on native varietals to craft 

its famous Port and dry wines. For the reds, these are Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga 

Nacional, Trincadeira, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Cão, complemented by Loureiro and Arinto 

for the whites. Changes, however, have occurred in terms of selection – quality vines 

are carefully identified and the fruit is meticulously selected to produce wines showing 

outstanding character. The same painstaking attention to detail is applied in the winery, 

where the wines are fermented at controlled temperatures and maturation programmes 

are thoughtfully curated, for example. 

“The wines are more fruity and elegant and are a better match for the needs of foreign 

consumers”, explains Gamba. So much so that the company currently exports 95% of its 

wines – a fairly rare occurrence – primarily to countries such as the United Kingdom, the 

United States, Belgium, Switzerland and Poland. “Domestic consumption remains high, 

despite a saturated marketplace”, adds Gamba. That’s because “Portugal is the country with 

the highest per capita wine consumption in the world”. 

Winemaker Vicente Leite de Faria, the seventh winegrower in the family, is currently 


THE HISTORY OF VICENTE 

FARIA DATES BACK TO THE 

18 TH CENTURY 

THE ADEGA OR WINERY 

IS LOCATED IN A PART OF 

NORTHERN PORTUGAL WHICH 

OVERLOOKS THE ATLANTIC 

APPROXIMATELY 62% OF 

BACALHÔA’S SALES COME 

FROM THE DOMESTIC MARKET, 

WITH THE BALANCE STEMMING 

FROM EXPORTS 


39

PORTUGAL 

EVOLUTION 

IN 2007, CAVES CAMPELO WAS BOUGHT BY JOSÉ CARLOS LIMA & FILHOS 

tasked with producing Vicente Faria wines. He 

draws on the expertise he has garnered since childhood, 

with his grandfather on the steep hillsides of 

the Douro Valley, and from studying in Bordeaux 

to craft delicious pours that appeal the world over, 

and whose quality is endorsed by the multiple 

awards bestowed on his wines over the years. 

CAVES CAMPELO, ADAPTING TO 

CHANGE 

HÉLDER LIMA AND HIS BROTHER ÓSCAR WHO RUN 

CAVES CAMPELO 

In order to make headway outside of national 

borders, Portuguese winegrowers have had to redouble 

their efforts at every level, from producing 

the wines to sales and marketing. Sofia Costa, export 

manager with Caves Campelo, stresses that 

over the past few years they have invested significantly 

in order to make a name for themselves 

in foreign markets, mainly by ramping up their 

attendance at the major international wine fairs. 

This has enabled them not only to secure greater 

visibility, but also to gain a “broader vision of international 

trade and the drinking habits specific 

to each market. Consequently, we have tailored our 

wines to a more cosmopolitan style. We have also 

adapted not only the image of our wines, but also 

our range of products”. 

The Barcelos-based company, located in the Vinho 

Verde region, now exports between 75 and 80% of 

its wines which grace tables across Europe, but also 

in China, the United States and Canada. Although 

domestic consumption is holding up, claims Costa, 

the company has set its sights on exports which 

continue to gain traction. It markets its famous 

fresh, very lightly sparkling wines – on which the 

region’s reputation is based – along with wines 

from Alentejo in South-East Portugal, the Douro 

Valley, Dão, Tejo and Lisbon. 

The specific features of every region are invariably 

showcased because losing regional identity is not 

an option, claims Costa. Adapting to change also 

implies the ability to protect one’s heritage. The 

winery therefore only works with native grape 

varieties like Alvarinho which delivers floral and 

citrus aromas and lends the wine beAutiful minerality. 

Another example is Loureiro, which instils 

refreshing acidity in the wine. The choice of varie- 


ONE OF BACALHÔA’S WINEMAKERS, FRANCISCO ANTUNES, WAS RECENTLY 

VOTED ‘2023 BEST WINEMAKER’ BY GRANDES ESCOLHAS MAGAZINE 

BACALHÔA HAS FOUR HEAD WINEMAKERS, INCLUDING FILIPA TOMAZ 

DA COSTA 

tals is both an advantage and a challenge, admits Costa, because “although it is a differentiating 

factor, it requires extra effort to raise awareness of Portuguese wines”. 

BACALHÔA, AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF INNOVATION 

Another aspect that factors into the current popularity of Portugal’s wine industry is undoubtedly 

the financial side. Fábio Vieira, the export manager at Bacalhôa, agrees: “The outstanding 

value for money of Portuguese wines has helped boost exports”. Portugal now sells remarkable 

wines at very competitive price points, which knock the spots off those of neighbouring countries. 

That doesn’t mean it compromises on quality. This is especially true of Bacalhôa which has 

always realised that to establish a pedigree in export markets, you have to rank alongside internationally 

renowned wines. For many years it has focused on technological innovation and 

a robust team of professionals with proven skills to further its commitment to excellence. To 

expedite its presence in international markets, though, it has not changed the style of its wines, 

points out Vieira, because the company “was already marketing one range of wines in a modern 

style and another more classically styled portfolio”, thereby spanning the spectrum of demand. 

The company has a foothold in several famous Portuguese wine regions, producing wines in 

Alentejo, Setúbal Peninsula, Bairrada, Beiras, Dão and the Douro. Although Port and Madeira 

continue to be the most highly represented on the international stage, “wines made from native 

grape varieties are now increasingly in demand”, stresses Vieira. That’s a blessing for Bacalhôa 

which grows primarily indigenous grapes, although it does have some Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Merlot, Chardonnay and Syrah plantings. Recently, it has introduced the Italian variety Greco 

and planted significant amounts of Pinot noir to produce world-class sparkling wines. The 

same quality focus has also led it to develop an interest in the native Baga grape variety which 

is due to be used for the first time during this year’s harvest. Another new release this year is a 

wine made entirely from vineyards planted in 1931 that has now been bottled and is ready to be 

launched, underscoring the company’s relentless quest for perfection. 


41

REVOLUTION TO EVOLUTION: CHARTING 

THE FUTURE OF SWARTLAND WINES 

BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU 

DIPWSET 


OF THE WINERIES 

From wheat farms to groundbreaking wine farms, traditional farmers to rebels with 

an old vine cause, the Swartland grew from being perceived as a relatively obscure 

winemaking region to a world phenomenon. To maintain their sustainable evolution 

and how they do business, the Swartland further evolved into a globally recognized hub 

for exceptional, terroir-driven wines and business models, adding to its success. 

THE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE THAT IS HOME TO ALLESVERLOREN WINE ESTATE IN RIEBEEK WEST 


SOUTH AFRICA 

TERROIR 

KASTEELBERG REPRESENTS THE TOP TIER WINES AT RIEBEEK VALLEY AND CO. AND THE SHIRAZ 

EMBODIES WHAT THE SWARTLAND IS ALL ABOUT 

If South African wines intrigue you, then surely, you’ve been swept up in the buzz 

surrounding the Swartland region in South Africa over the past couple of decades. This 

wine-producing area has transformed remarkably, and this metamorphosis can largely 

be credited to pioneering winemakers like Eben Sadie and the Mullineuxs, whose innovative 

approaches ignited the Swartland Revolution Movement. The movement celebrated 

minimal intervention winemaking and embraced the unique characteristics of old bush 

vines, reshaping perceptions of the Swartland and South African wine and prompting 

innovative marketing avenues. 

Today, the region has its own wine & olive route woven with heartwarming stories told 

through wine labels while more individual personalities are drawn to its arid yet hauntingly 

beautiful terrain. 

The combination of terroir, attention and subsequent intention has propelled Swartland 

wines to critical acclaim, sparking numerous business concepts that ignited consumer 

interest. This success is rooted in a commitment to honouring traditional methods and 

embracing innovative winemaking techniques, resulting in diverse wines showcasing the 

region’s history and dynamic future. 

RIEBEEK VALLEY WINE CO’S TRANSFORMATIVE JOURNEY 

Founded in 1941, Riebeek Valley Wine Co. exemplifies the dynamic evolution of the Swartland 

wine region. Beyond making their own wine ranges, they’ve emerged as a leading 

boutique wine services company, offering a comprehensive suite of products and services 

to the South African and global wine industry. 


43

MEET THE WHOLE TEAM AT RIEBEEK VALLEY AND CO 

THE DYNAMIC ENVIRONMENT AT RIEBEEK VALLEY & CO IS WHAT 

CREATES FUTURE GENERATIONS AND CONSISTENT QUALITY 

Leading the charge within Riebeek Valley Wine Co’s premium cellar is the fearless Sheree 

Nothnagel, whose tenure reflects the company’s remarkable journey from its cooperative 

roots to its status as a dynamic entity. Reflecting on this transformation, Sheree remarks 

on the profound changes in winemaking styles and the transition from a cooperative to a 

family-owned company in 2018. 

“Family remains integral to their ethos,” she affirms, “with 22 families spanning multiple 

generations still owning the company.” 

For Sheree and the team, modernity isn’t merely about state-of-the-art equipment but 

encompasses a forward-thinking approach to winemaking. This ethos culminated in establishing 

the boutique cellar, filling a market void, and positioning the company as a one-stop 

destination for premium wines and services. 

“While the boutique cellar focuses on premium wines and services, the bigger cellar focuses 

on larger projects. We also have a logistics department where we can store wine, label, wax, 

assist with exports, etc. We can provide clients with grapes or bulk wine that they can bottle 

under their own labels.” 

The RAAR Shiraz Carbonic Maceration 2023 (90) with its burst of violets, red berry fruit, 

perfumed nuances and grippy, lengthy finish and the RAAR skin contact Chenin Blanc 2023 

(93) with its alluring yellow fruit and pithy, rich aftertaste, intrigued the Gilbert & Gaillard 

tasting panel. In its youth, the Kasteelberg Syrah 2023 (91) left a profound impression with 

its spicy character and immense longevity. 

Sheree’s passion for winemaking extends beyond crafting exceptional wines; she sees herself 

as a mentor, sharing her expertise with aspiring winemakers during harvests and beyond. 

Her dedication to nurturing talent underscores the wine community’s collaborative spirit. 


SOUTH AFRICA 

TERROIR 

“In harvest time, we line up samples and encourage 

assistants and interns to learn and ask questions,” 

she shares proudly, “so I am a winemaker 

and a teacher and will never stand back for doing 

the hard graft either. It comes with the territory!” 

WILLIE DREYER, LEEUWENKUIL FAMILY VINEYARDS’ OWNER, AND WILLIE DREYER JNR 

LEEUWENKUIL, A SAGA OF 

TRADITION AND 

AUDACIOUS INNOVATION 

At Leeuwenkuil, a spirit of innovation and 

commitment to tradition converge to drive the 

vineyard towards trailblazing projects. 

Yes, lions did roam freely back in the 1700s when 

Leeuwenkuil (Lion’s Lair) before its subdivision 

was still known as Schinderkuijl (a German name 

referring to the tradition of gathering materials 

from demolished buildings or shipwrecks to 

create something new), which was what they did 

on the farm. In 1851, the Dreyer family became 

the new owners, with Willie and Emma Dreyer at 

the helm of Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards today 

comprising more than 1,250 hectares. 

The Leeuwenkuil Reserve Chenin Blanc 2022 

(92) has an alluring intensity of stone fruit and 

pineapple with a creamy full palate adding to the 

richness. The Reserve Red (92), a blend of Shiraz, 

Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvèdre, also delivered 

with a balance of smokiness and tart fruit 

forwardness. 

Kara van Zyl, the marketing manager, has a firm 

understanding of the Swartland offering. She 

reflects on their journey: 

“Their success is 15 years in the making, and everything 

is starting to come together. The best word 

I can use for their actions is audacious - a family 

that is resilient and forward-thinking.” 

She adds that these bold initiatives are embodied 

by their “gregarious” winemaker, Pieter Carstens, 

who embraces this dynamic era wholeheartedly. 

Situated in the southernmost part of the Swartland, 

the vineyard’s shale soils imbue their wines 

with a distinct saline character, particularly 

evident in their Chenin and Shiraz. 

“While Shiraz and Chenin remain at the centre, 

LEEUWENKUIL’S JOURNEY BEGAN SEVEN GENERATIONS AGO, AND TODAY, 

WITH ALL THEIR CHILDREN INVOLVED TO SOME EXTENT, THE VISION 

OF ITS OWNERS CONTINUES TO EXPAND 


45

LIZELLE GERBER, CELLARMASTER AT ORG DE RAC 

JOHAN GERBER, MANAGING DIRECTOR AT ORG DE RAC 

ALEC VINCENT, VITICULTURIST AT ORG DE RAC 

Leeuwenkuil’s repertoire includes Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and bush vine Pinotage.” 

According to Kara, the Leeuwenkuil Reserve Range consistently excels, the white earning 

five stars in the Diner’s Club Platter’s Wine Guide 2024. 

Reflecting on the Swartland Revolution, Kara notes a shift towards a cohesive Swartland 

where innovation and passion to stay true to the character of the Swartland region, 

propels the whole region forward. 

“Today, there is cross-pollination, and it helps consumers understand the Swartland 

better. We are now in the best and strongest position ever,” she remarks. 

Tailor-made equipment, including AI technology, ensures precision and consistent 

quality throughout winemaking. So, in weaving together tradition and innovation, 

Leeuwenkuil continues to push boundaries and tell their story of bravery and excellence. 

ORG DE RAC: PIONEERING ORGANIC EXCELLENCE 

While Org de Rac may boast a shorter history than some, having been established in 

2000, owner Nico Bacon, hailing from the fish industry, was a true pioneer of organic 

farming, explains Johan Gerber, one of the directors for Org de Rac. 

“He was an absolute visionary to start farming organically, and this was the best site to 

do so, surrounded by wheatlands.” 

Situated on the northern border of the Swartland, Org de Rac capitalizes on its unique 

location, benefiting from cooler south-facing slopes and oceanic influences from the 

nearby coast, 45 kilometres away. This favourable environment allows for organic farming 


SOUTH AFRICA 

TERROIR 

with minimal disease pressure, resulting in healthy 

vineyards and exceptional grape quality. 

“We pride ourselves on consistent quality, maintaining 

organic and Fairtrade accreditation. Our ethos 

is to care for the environment as much as we care for 

our people, doing so sustainably,” adds Johan. 

Reflecting on their journey, the team at Org de Rac 

acknowledges the importance of learning from past 

experiences. 

“We learned how to do things and not to do things,” 

and this iterative approach has led to innovative 

wines consistent with market curiosity. Their 

commitment to organic farming is evident in 

ongoing projects like their earthworm farm and 

improved composting practices to overcome 

challenges while preserving character and quality. 

“Organic farming will always come with challenges, 

but we continue to learn and adapt, prioritising 

sustainability without compromising on quality,” 

concludes Johan. 

THOR VINTNERS FOCUS ON SMALL-BATCH ARTISANAL WINES 

INSPIRED BY ULTRA-PREMIUM RHÔNE BLENDS, ONLY BRINGING 

THEM HOME TO THIS UNIQUE CORNER OF THE WORLD 

EMILE GENTIS: 

THE WINEMAKER-JEWELLER 

OF SWARTLAND BLENDS 

Emile Gentis, driven by a firm belief in the power 

of tenacity, founded Thor Vintners with a focus on 

crafting small-batch artisanal wines through the art 

of blending. 

The Gentis Badlands Shiraz 2022 (93) and the Gentis 

The Phoenix Petite Sirah (92) excelled in Gilbert & 

Gaillard’s tasting of Swartland wines, following the 

brand’s inclusion in the Swartland wine route since 

January 2024. 

“My expertise lies in blending, a skill honed over 

years of sourcing and combining components 

from across the winelands to create unique blends 

tailored to buyers and overseas markets. Blending is 

an art form, a means to strike the perfect balance, 

even with vintages that require a creative touch.” 

Under the Gentis family name, all wines are crafted 

from Swartland grapes. The Phoenix, sourced 

from bush vines near Malmesbury, offers a bold 

and complex flavour profile, while the rebellious 

Badlands challenges convention. 

UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THOR VINTNERS, THE PHOENIX, BADLANDS & WIND 

SONG BRANDS CELEBRATE WINE OF ORIGIN SWARTLAND 


47

KIKI HUGHES IS DOING HER MASTER’S IN WILDLIFE FORENSIC 

GENETICS WHILE MANAGING THE SALES AND MARKETING OF NATIVO 

AFTER LEARNING FROM LOCAL WINEMAKERS, BILLY AND KIKI ARE 

NOW SPEARHEADING THE WINEMAKING AT NATIVO WINES 

While Emile acknowledges the importance of terroir, his focus remains on customer satisfaction, 

leveraging the Swartland’s diverse and high-quality grapes to craft exceptional blends. 

“Just call me the jeweller,” he laughs, “as the Swartland offers a treasure trove of possibilities, where 

every grape variety is a gem waiting to be discovered and polished into a crown-worthy blend.” 

NATIVO WINES: LOYAL TO PLACE, NOT STYLE 

There’s a solidity like no other when a father and daughter share a mutual interest, and Argentinian-born 

Billy Hughes and his daughter Kiki embody this bond. They embarked on their 

farming journey in 2000, unaware of the groundswell of energy rallying to save old vines from 

imminent destruction. 

“We were among the pioneers to obtain formal organic certification, striving to elevate it to the 

highest standards,” recalls Billy. “We soon realised that the winemakers here were incredibly 

passionate, well-travelled, and unafraid to innovate.” 

To Kiki, the Swartland hasn’t changed much; instead, consumer perception has evolved. 

“South Africa was once conservative, but the Swartland broke the mould.” 

Billy beams as he discusses their wines submitted for tasting. “We took Tempranillo harvested 

on the same day but made one from destemmed fruit and another using 50% whole bunch — 

curious to see the outcomes. Both received gold medals.” 

According to Kiki, the main distinctions lie in the tannin structure of each wine and how they 

are perceived on the palate. “Oak only plays a subtle role; we want the fruit to take centre stage.” 

After learning from seasoned winemakers, last year marked the first time father and daughter 

worked alone in the cellar. “We’re eager to showcase the malleable character of Tempranillo,” 

says Billy. “It’s drought-resistant and can yield a big, tannic wine or a fruitier, elegant one. Ultimately, 

vintage variation will always be a factor in this Mediterranean climate, where grapes 

thrive with minimal water. 


SOUTH AFRICA 

TERROIR 

And then we stumbled upon a happy accident that 

became our first orange wine,” laughs Kiki, “which 

has now become one of our signature offerings.” 

For them, loyalty lies more with the land than 

any specific variety or winemaking style. “The 

consistent message is one of honesty—a small 

family business committed to crafting unique 

Swartland wines.” 

DU TOIT FAMILY VINEYARDS ARE HOME TO 25 HECTARES OF INDIGENOUS 

RENOSTERVELD. THE NAME FOR THE WINES, KNOLFONTEIN, IS DERIVED FROM THE 

AFRIKAANS WORD KNOL, MEANING PLANT BULB, A PHENOMENON CREATING A 

SEASONAL SPECTACLE AS THE SHOOTS EMERGE 

KNOLFONTEIN: CULTIVATING 

TRADITION, NURTURING TERROIR 

The Du Toit Family Vineyards is a 480-ha farm 

at the foothills of the Kasteelberg in Riebeek 

West. Knolfontein is the name adopted for their 

boutique range of wines they believe reflect generations 

in the making. 

Pieter, aka Knol du Toit, is a fourth-generation 

wine grower whose family has always farmed 

grapes in the Swartland, and after studying viticulture 

and oenology, returned to the farm with 

his father, Danie. 

“There were vineyards on the farm when my 

great-grandfather bought the land in 1907. Yet, 

after selling our grapes for so long, in 2020, it was 

time for our own label and identity,” shares Pieter. 

“I am just a farmer who loves his land” he adds, 

and five generations in the making, they still 

follow their heart and not consumer trends. 

In the late 1990s, South Africa claimed three gold 

medals at the Chardonnay du Monde competition; 

one of them went to a wine made from Knolfontein 

fruit. And in 1998, Pieter’s father won the 

prize for the region’s best vineyard block. A decade 

later, he did the same. 

The Kolfontein Chenin Blanc 2021 (91) and 

the Knolfontein Cinsaut 2021 (90) shined in 

the tasting. 

“We embrace a philosophy that goes beyond 

farming - nurturing the soil and the vines, ensuring 

they thrive in harmony with nature. We limit 

tractor traffic to preserve the soil’s integrity of 

plant cover crops to shield it from erosion. It’s a 

labour of love, driven by a deep-seated passion 

for our terroir and a commitment to preserving 

THEY WORK WITH THE RHYTHM OF THE LAND, SAYS PIETER DU TOIT, 

FOURTH-GENERATION WINE GROWER AT DU TOIT FAMILY VINEYARDS 


49

SOUTH AFRICA 

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it for generations to come. Our journey has been 

one of learning, asking for help when needed, and 

staying true to ourselves amidst the challenges.” 

ALLESVERLOREN: A LEGACY OF 

RESILIENCE AND INNOVATION 

DANIE MALAN, 5TH GENERATION WINEMAKER (RIGHT) AT ALLESVERLOREN WITH WILHELM 

DE VRIES (LEFT), WHO JOINED THE OLDEST CELLAR IN THE SWARTLAND IN 2016 

DANIE MALAN’S DAUGHTER, DANIELLE, TAKES CHARGE OF MARKETING AT 

ALLESVERLOREN 

The name originates from a devastating moment 

in 1704 when the family returned from an arduous 

wagon journey to discover their house and farm 

burned to the ground. “All is lost,” they believed. 

Hence, the name “Allesverloren” remained, serving 

as a poignant reminder and a source of inspiration. 

Over 150 years ago, the Malan family bought 

the farm. 

“The legacy runs deep,” says Danielle Malan, 

daughter of owner Danie. “The first Malan 

purchased Allesverloren in 1872 when it was 

primarily a wheat farm. Although our cellar is a 

heritage site, we continue to innovate, finding 

ways to expand while remaining true to our roots.” 

The family has been pivotal in shaping the Swartland 

wine region. While wine was already 

produced here for personal use in the 1800s, the 

brand was established in 1972 and the Malans were 

the first to import and plant the first Portuguese 

varietals. Wet winters and warm, dry summers 

facilitate ripening for these robust varieties, with 

prevailing westerly winds and mountain shadows 

providing relief and subsequent elegance in the 

wines. 

“My grandfather, the 3 rd generation Malan, played 

a significant role in this transformation,” adds 

Danielle. “He developed a profound love and 

respect for Port during visits to Portugal, and 

under his guidance, our brand expanded to include 

Portuguese varieties, a breakthrough moment for 

the Swartland.” 

Their efforts to showcase high-quality wines made 

from French and Portuguese cultivars underscored 

the region’s significance. 

“We’ve been fortunate always to have a family 

member ready to carry forward the legacy,” says 

Danielle, highlighting the importance of continuity 

and renewal. 


SOUTH AFRICA 

TERROIR 

THE MALAN FAMILY OF ALLESVERLOREN PIONEERED PORTUGUESE VARIETIES IN SOUTH 

AFRICA, IN A REGION CONDUCIVE TO CULTIVATING THESE ROBUST CULTIVARS 

Today, whether it’s co-ops, family farms, or independent winemakers, they support 

each other’s events to promote the region collectively. 

Danielle tells how her father adapted to changing palates by adjusting ageing 

techniques. So, although the Swartland remains sought after for Chenin Blanc 

and Shiraz, their Allesverloren Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 stole the show with 

93 points, affirming that collective initiatives and pioneering business models 

have re-founded the Swartland as a nucleus of possibilities. 

A sense of camaraderie among wine businesses that includes larger cellars, family 

farms and the Swartland Independent Producers pivoted the region to transition 

from its revolutionary fervour to a period of evolution and refinement. So, while 

the core principles of terroir-driven winemaking and collaboration remain pivotal, 

the growing emphasis on sustainability, innovation, and the relentless pursuit of 

quality remains unequivocal. This adaptability will ensure the Swartland’s continuation 

of garnering international acclaim, making the region’s future appear as 

promising as its storied past. 


51

THE WAY TO A GERMAN WINE 

DRINKER’S HEART 

BY MATTHIAS NESKE 


OF THE WINERIES 

Germany is considered to be a notoriously difficult market in the consumer arena. In 

the 1990s, supermarket chains Migros (Switzerland), Delhaize (Belgium/USA) and 

Intermarché (France) successively attempted to enter the German market. Without 

success. Discount prices by rival companies and brand loyalty among German consumers 

proved to be insurmountable obstacles. But what about the Germans’ taste in wine? 

Perhaps there is an opening for exporters, especially as domestic production, at 9 million 

hectolitres, only accounts for just under half of what Germans drink each year. So which 

wines do Germans prefer? Gilbert & Gaillard asked the experts in Germany. 

HAND HARVESTING SAPERAVI GRAPES FOR TAOBA 


GERMANY 

IMPORTERS 

THE MOSELLE VALLEY NEAR THE EINIG-ZENZEN WINERY 

Before getting into big numbers and German preferences, one thing should be said 

and it’s a point on which all the experts concurred: the wine market in Germany 

is highly segmented. In other words, there is almost nothing that does not exist. In a 

country with a population of 82 million, the economic power to match and a tradition 

of wine production and imports dating back to Roman times, this is hardly surprising. 

Merchants from the major ports of Hamburg and Bremen have been importing 

wine from the Bordelais for centuries - in bottles and even more so in bulk. Today, 

Berlin is viewed as an experimental space where even rare natural wines from the far 

corners of the earth can be bought. However, the fact that such segments exist does 

not contradict the overarching statements. So, back to the basic metrics. 

COUNTRY DISTRIBUTION 

In its analyses, the Federal Statistical Office regularly publishes data about countries 

from which most wine is exported to Germany. In 2022, Germans imported 

13.395 million hectolitres of wine (the latest official figures), which equates to just 

under 16 litres per capita. The most popular country of origin was clearly Italy with 

36.3% of import volumes, followed by Spain with 27.5% and France with 13.3%. South 

Africa, the first country outside Europe (4.8%), follows in fourth place, ahead of the 


53

GERMANY 

IMPORTERS 

HARVESTING TAOBA IN GEORGIA - THE WINE BY THIERRY 

FONTANNAZ HAS BECOME AN INSTANT SUCCESS 

USA and Australia with 3.0% volume shares each. 

When it comes to value shares, the figures shift 

slightly: Italy stays in first place with 37.7%, but this 

time ahead of France (30.4%) and Spain (12.9%). 

Among the top ten importing countries, Germans 

are prepared to pay the highest price for wines from 

France, followed by New Zealand. The cheapest 

wines, on the other hand, come from North Macedonia, 

Hungary and Spain. 

Looking at the types of wine, white wines, with a 

45% share, are just ahead of red wines with 44%. 

However, rosé wines are simply subsumed into the 

red wine category and not shown separately. When 

it comes to value, the proportions are reversed: 

red wines clearly take first place with 48%, ahead 

of white wines with 27%. Readers so inclined may 

notice there is still a considerable gap. In fact, this 

is primarily occupied by sparkling wines, which 

account for only 5% of volumes but 17% of the value 

of imported wines. Champagnes (1% of volumes and 

9% of values) are mostly responsible for the high 

value share, but Prosecco and Cava also contribute 

significantly. 

TASTE PREFERENCES 

THE TAOBA WINERY 

So much for the big figures. But to find out what 

tastes and specific origins are driving them, in other 

words which wines the Germans really like, one has 

to dive deeper. The best way to do this is to talk to 

people who produce foreign wines specifically for 

the German market. 

Thierry Fontannaz is one such expert (see Papaloves 

Wine below). “When I look at the bestsellers 

in the red wine category,” he says, “it’s evident that 

Germans tend to like round, dense wines that can 

be a little higher in alcohol.” Fontannaz points out 

that round means less noticeable tannins, often 

cushioned with a little residual sugar - as with 

Primitivo from Apulia. But is it true that Germans 

are so incredibly price-sensitive? “Yes and no,” says 

Fontannaz, “definitely in the entry-level segment. 

But when it comes to a strong brand or an origin that 

is considered to be of high quality, the price becomes 

less important.” 


TOBIAS DEUSSEN, THE MARKETING DIRECTOR AND PROJECT DEVELOPER 

AT ENOVATIVE 

KONSTANTIN PECHTL, THE WINEMAKER AND PROJECT DEVELOPER 

AT ENOVATIVE 

Tobias Deussen and Konstantin Pechtl of Enovative confirm this statement. “Accessible 

wines and easy-to-pronounce names create a feeling of being on summer vacation 

or at the Italian restaurant around the corner,” says Deussen, also referring to 

the fact that, according to estimates by gastronomy associations, there are around 

20,000 Italian restaurants in Germany. This level of penetration makes it easier to 

think food and wine at the same time. The combination of vacation enjoyment and 

success in Germany is also mirrored in the two bestsellers in the white and sparkling 

wine sector, Lugana from Lake Garda and Prosecco. 

A FEAST FOR THE PALATE, AND THE EYES 

Deussen’s colleague Konstantin Pechtl sheds light on Spain, the second most important 

country of origin. “When significant cost increases occurred, Spanish bodegas in 

particular were able to keep price increases at a comparatively low level. The consumer 

has obviously rewarded this. In addition to the high product quality, we have also 

noticed time and again that an attractive design is an important buying cue - the eye 

eats too,” stresses Pechtl. 

A third popular origin is South Africa. Philipp Zenzen, whose company (see box 

Einig-Zenzen) has many South African wines in its portfolio, knows the reasons for 


55

GERMANY 

IMPORTERS 

POURING RED WINE FROM THE TANK AT EINIG-ZENZEN 

this. “This is a relatively new development, which is 

mainly due to tourism [once again]. South Africa has 

become very fashionable as a new travel destination,” 

explains Zenzen. “There’s no time difference, there 

are opposite seasons, still relatively cheap prices 

locally, and the country is very attractive both scenically 

and culturally.” So it makes sense to extend this 

vacation feeling at home - with a bottle of Chenin, 

Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier from South Africa. 

So what does the future hold for imported wines 

in Germany? Thierry Fontannaz notes that the soft 

and slightly sweet red wines are doing particularly 

well with young customers. “The older generation, 

which socialized in the 1980s and 1990s with dry 

wines from France and Tuscany as food companions 

is having a much harder time with the new 

bestsellers.” This could be supported by the fact that 

the younger generation grew up with sugary drinks 

such as cola or Red Bull, and with added sugar in 

food. Fruity wines make the transition easier. “Incidentally,” 

adds Fontannaz, “I don’t believe that this 

generation will suddenly change its tastes in the 

course of its wine journey. That wasn’t the case with 

the older generation of dry wine drinkers either.” 

Additionally, Fontannaz observes the fruit-driven 

trend for wine practically worldwide, and Germany 

is no exception. “I sell soft red wines very well in 

Scandinavia and even in France or Portugal, countries 

that actually produce a completely different 

type of wine.” Is a global harmonisation of taste in 

motion? It’s quite possible. 

EINIG-ZENZEN OWNERS PETER-JOSEF AND REGINA ZENZEN 

PERSONAL CHOICES 

Finally, there is the question of which wines the 

producers prefer themselves. Gerhard Brauer, 

chairman of the Ruppertsberg winegrowers, likes 

red Côtes du Rhône. “The blend of Grenache and 

Syrah is unique. It produces a juicy, fruity palate, but 

also a compact structure with plenty of complexity 

and depth. It’s perfect for cold winter days,” claims 

the winemaker. Aleksandra Frank, Technical 

Director at the Studier winery, a member of the 

younger generation, takes the same classic approach 

to wine. “I admire a large number of wines from 


THE RUPPERTSBERG MANAGEMENT TEAM AT WORK 

GERHARD BRAUER, DIRECTOR OF THE RUPPERTSBERG COOPERATIVE 

abroad, from elegant Barolo to subtle Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Burgundy.” Her 

current favourites, however, are two sparkling wines: “The Brut Nature 3210 by Champagne 

Maison Phillipe Gonet impresses with its finesse, freshness and incredible length. Also, 

I find the Kit’s Coty from Chapel Down in Kent in the UK equally fascinating. It is playful 

and light without losing any of its complexity.” 

Ultimately, the initial premise is confirmed once again and that is that diversity in terms of 

origins and styles are key to appreciation. This applies partly to the mainstream consumer 

segments, but above all to Germans with an affinity for wine. 

WINE COMPANIES 

EINIG-ZENZEN 

Einig-Zenzen is the ‘jack-of-all-trades’ par excellence. Situated in the steep Moselle valley 

near Cochem, the Zenzen family can look back on a continuous wine-growing tradition 

since 1636. Philipp Zenzen is the 14 th generation at the helm. Over the years, the company has 

built up various pillars. Eighty years ago, the decision was made not to operate primarily as 

a winegrower, but also as a négociant-eleveur. In the wine industry, it helps to think innovatively 

and always be a small step ahead of the curve. The Zenzens were already importing 

wine from Australia in 1971, and Chile was added as a country of origin in 1980. Today, the 

company is represented on every continent - except Antarctica, of course, so there is still 

one challenge left… 


57

THE STUDIER WINERY TEAM 

ENJOYING THEMSELVES 

ALEKSANDRA FRANK, 

TECHNICAL DIRECTOR OF 

THE STUDIER WINERY IN 

THE PALATINATE REGION 

RUPPERTSBERG 

Ruppertsberg is the name of a well-known wine village in the Palatinate. Excavations 

show that the Romans were already growing vines in this climatically favourable location. 

However, the history of the local cooperative, which was founded in 1911, does 

not go back quite as far. Today, 86 member winegrowers, led by director Gerhard 

Brauer, grow a total of 400 hectares of vines around the village. Riesling is the most 

important grape variety in Ruppertsberg, as it is throughout the Palatinate. However, 

the Linsenbusch vineyard to the south of the village, with its deeper soils, offers an 

ideal home for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris in particular. 

STUDIER 

Ellerstadt, located in the fertile plain before the heights of the Palatinate Forest, is a 

wine village with several well-known wineries. One of these is the Studier winery, run 

by Reinhard Studier. What was once a small family winery now boasts 50 hectares 

of vineyards, all of which are certified organic – it’s a real success story. Technical 

manager Aleksandra Frank is one of the - unfortunately still underrepresented – 

top profile women who puts her stamp on the wines. The entire portfolio of Palatinate 

grape varieties is grown, from Riesling and Pinot Blanc to international grape 

varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Yes, even 

Cabernet now ripens in the Palatinate without any problems. 


THE TAOBA VINEYARD 

IN GEORGIA 

KONSTANTIN PECHTL (LEFT) 

AND TOBIAS DEUSSEN (RIGHT) 

AT ENOVATIVE HANDLE PRODUCT 

CONCEPT FROM A TO Z 

PAPALOVES WINE 

Thierry Fontannaz is the mastermind behind the Papaloves Wine project. The winemaker 

has been working in the industry for 30 years, initially for various wineries 

around the world, then for many years as a central buyer of French wines for one of 

Germany’s largest wine merchants. A good two years ago, he finally decided to set up 

his own business, leveraging his global wine knowledge. Papaloves Wine is the name 

of the project that Fontannaz has set up with Georgian winemaker Nugzar Ksovreli. 

Under the names Bedoba and Taoba (the same wine, just with a different name depending 

on the market), a red wine from the indigenous Saperavi grape variety has since 

been produced in Georgia and sold around the world. 

ENOVATIVE 

Enovative is the name of the German company founded in 2021 that is behind the 

Spanish red wine Torrehermosa. The two wine business insiders Tobias Deussen 

and Konstantin Pechtl provide both the design and materialization of entire wine 

programmes, mainly for supermarket chains - from A to Z. Tobias Deussen has 

been at home in the wine industry for 20 years, with a particular focus on marketing 

brands and private labels. Konstantin Pechtl, who has been a part of the wine scene 

for 15 years, adds his expertise as a winemaker and product developer. Both of them 

have in-depth knowledge of what the Germans like. 


59

JUAN PABLO CANTOS, 

THE INSPIRED WINEMAKER 

AT BODEGAS PIQUERAS 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 


OF THE COMPANY 

Unlike other Spanish wine regions, DO Almansa has not yet garnered the reputation it 

deserves. And yet, this tiny area of south-eastern Spain not only boasts ideal conditions 

for growing vines, but also traits that make it unique. Bodegas Piqueras, one of the 

region’s long-standing wineries, has tasked winemaker Juan Pablo Cantos Serrano 

with sharing with the world the true treasure trove it has in its possession. And that’s 

what he has done. Painstakingly, resourcefully and with considerable craftsmanship, 

he is writing the finest chapter in the appellation’s story. 

JUAN PABLO CANTOS SERRANO, THE WINEMAKER AT BODEGAS PIQUERAS, WHO HAS MADE A COMMITMENT TO CARVING OUT AN IDENTITY FOR ALMANSA 


SPAIN 

FOCUS 

THE STAFF AT THE BODEGA, WHICH WAS FOUNDED IN 1915 BY THE PIQUERAS FAMILY 

I 

“ ’m not in any hurry”, admits Juan Pablo Cantos Serrano during our conversation. 

Just like his wines maturing in the cellar, as a winemaker, he needs time. Building 

up an identity does not happen overnight, nor even in the space of a few years. Since 

his arrival at the bodega in 2017, he has been exploring, doing trials and trying various 

combinations to craft wines that are a mirror to their terroir. It’s a pretty tall order, but 

the challenge holds promise. Here, “it’s a blank canvas”, explains Cantos. It’s not like 

in Ribera del Duero, where quality wineries are in plentiful supply and everything (or 

almost) has already been tried. In Almansa, no bright new star in the wine firmament 

had yet been allowed to shine. 

The situation is starting to change, though. Several of Bodegas Piqueras’ signature 

wines have been awarded excellent scores by the finest critics in the world. And not 

just because they are technically irreproachable, but because, as perfect renditions 

of the soil that birthed them, they are unique. Gradually, thanks to the efforts of the 

winemaker, who is on a mission to demonstrate the outstanding qualities of his 

home region of Almansa, the appellation has finally established its pedigree and 

more importantly, its own specific identity. Before returning to his native village, 

Cantos worked in many other wine regions, including Ribera del Duero, Murcia and 

New Zealand. This experience made him realise that the quality potential of Almansa 

had yet to be leveraged, despite the fact that it is home to felicitous conditions for 

farming vines and producing premium wines. The discrepancy between the potential 

and its materialisation can be traced back to the fact that although vines have long 

been grown here, the wines were for many years sold in bulk. 


61

BODEGAS PIQUERAS IS NOW 

RUN BY JUAN PABLO AND ÁNGEL 

BONETE PIQUERAS 

As a wine region, though, located between 800 and 1,100 metres above sea level 

inland from the Mediterranean coastline, Almansa boasts many positive points. 

Its soils are poor, diurnal shift is significant – temperatures can range from 10°C 

by night to 35°C by day – the wind promotes healthy vines and of course, sunshine 

is abundant. “Here, everything is organic”, explains Cantos. “The only concern is 

drought”. Fortunately, the native grape varieties and in particular Garnacha Tintorera 

(Alicante Bouschet) and Monastrell (Mourvèdre), have the ability to adapt particularly 

well to the dearth of water. This year, for example, the winery’s production 

was barely affected by the serious drought that swept across Spain, unlike other 

varieties such as Syrah. “That’s a lesson for the future”, comments Cantos. 

As it happens, he has a soft spot for Garnacha Tintorera and Monastrell, particularly 

a combination of the two. In fact, he claims that the blend of both varieties is 

what lends Almansa’s wines their outstanding persona. No other wine region in the 

world grows the two cultivars together, or at such a high elevation. “80% of Spain’s 

Garnacha Tintorera is found in Almansa”, stresses Cantos. The secret is to strike a 

balance between the two varieties which, in successful blends, dovetail perfectly to 

produce powerful, generous wines with vibrant acidity and intense colour. “It’s not 

always plain sailing however”, admits the winemaker, because neither variety has 

a reputation for being easy to work with, particularly Monastrell with its extensive 

growing season. “The varieties are more complex than Tempranillo”, requiring 

greater care in handling and most importantly, special effort to let them express 

their tremendous qualities. 


SPAIN 

FOCUS 

Sometimes they need other grape varieties to fully 

achieve their potential, which is when the winemaker 

taps into the red varietal range permitted 

within the appellation area, using grapes like Syrah, 

Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Tempranillo to 

produce his famous blends. They also need carefully 

curated oak maturation to enhance their power, 

unlike Syrah for example, notes Cantos. In fact, he 

has created a single varietal, sulphite-free Syrah 

matured in amphorae to make the winemaking 

process more natural and gentle. Although he has 

a preference for blends, he also crafts single varietal 

wines, invariably made from unique blocks of very 

old vines. “They can only be made from outstanding 

areas”, he points out. 

JUAN PABLO CANTOS SERRANO HAS BROUGHT THE WINERY INTO A NEW ERA 

Traditionally, Almansa is a red wine region, but 

whites are starting to become a talking point. In 

fact, Bodegas Piqueras was the first winery to grow 

white grapes in the appellation area (Verdejo and 

Sauvignon blanc) forty or so years ago. It makes 

increasing amounts of white wine, often matured 

in oak to produce food-friendly pours with lovely 

volume and great freshness on the palate. Again, 

Cantos is not one to shy away from innovation, 

dreaming up ideas like creating age-worthy white 

wines such as his single varietal Verdejo Gen One 

matured in oak barrels – a first for the region. 

THE VINES ARE FARMED USING ENVIRONMENTALLY-FRIENDLY TECHNIQUES, 

WITH NO PESTICIDES OR CHEMICALS 

Bodegas Piqueras is a pioneer and since it was 

founded over 100 years ago, it has always stood out 

for its love of the land. Its history is intrinsically 

linked to that of the appellation – in fact, it was 

the driving force behind its creation. Fuelled by a 

desire to showcase Almansa’s winegrowing heritage, 

it has made another leap forward by recruiting 

Juan Pablo Cantos. Choosing to go down the 

quality route seems to be reaping rewards because 

the bodega now exports to over 50 countries, including 

Canada and Finland, where it became the first 

Spanish winery to export. The company continues 

to amass good scores and medals, and Almansa is 

(finally) starting to shine. There is justice after all! 


63

PIEDMONT, A KALEIDOSCOPE OF GRAPE 

VARIETIES AND VINEYARD SITES 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 


OF THE COMPANY - ©AARÓN_ 

GÓMEZ_FIGUEROA 

Piedmont is a region that has made wine its pride and joy, establishing itself as a 

renowned producer of high quality wines thanks to its most prominent appellations. 

And yet, not everyone is aware of the full variety of appellations and grape varieties 

that are available to Piedmont growers and wineries, akin to the range of colours and 

tones that Mediterranean artists have at their fingertips. 

LA SCOLCA’S ESTATE WAS PURCHASED IN 1919 BY GIORGIO SOLDATI’S GREAT-GRANDFATHER, CHIARA SOLDATI’S FATHER, THE FOURTH GENERATION WITH 

AN EYE FIRMLY ON THE FUTURE 


ITALY 

TERROIR 

OVER 6 HECTARES OF VINEYARDS, THE CORDARA WINERY GROWS NATIVE VARIETIES AND COMPLIES 

WITH SUSTAINABLE AND RESPECTFUL AGRICULTURAL TRADITIONS 

P 

iedmont is renowned for its quality – more than 80% of the wine produced there has designation 

of origin certification. Nineteen wines are classed as DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Designation 

of Origin) while 41 are classed as DOC (Controlled Designation of Origin) out of a national 

total of 73 DOCGs and 332 DOCs. The varietal range is extensive and includes grapes like Arneis, 

Cortese, Timorasso, Erbaluce, Favorita, Moscato Bianco, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Grignolino, 

Brachetto, Ruchè, Pelaverga, Vespolina and rare cultivars. These are joined by international varieties 

that in certain areas have found their ideal soils and climate, including Chardonnay, Riesling and 

Pinot Noir. 

Piedmont produces the following DOCG wines: Alta Langa, Asti, Barbaresco, Barbera d’Asti, Barbera 

del Monferrato Superiore, Barolo, Brachetto d’Acqui o Acqui, Canelli, Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba o, 

Diano d’Alba, Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore o Ovada, Dogliani, Erbaluce di Caluso o Caluso, Gattinara, 

Gavi o Cortese di Gavi, Ghemme, Nizza, Roero, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato, and Terre Alfieri. 

It also produces these DOC wines: Alba, Albugnano, Barbera d’Alba, Barbera del Monferrato, 

Boca, Bramaterra, Calosso, Canavese, Carema, Cisterna, Colli Tortonesi, Collina Torinese, Colline 

Novaresi, Colline Saluzzesi, Cortese Alto Monferrato, Coste della Sesia, Dolcetto d’Acqui, Dolcetto 

d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Asti, Dolcetto di Ovada, Fara, Freisa d’Asti, Freisa di Chieri, Gabiano, Grignolino 

d’Asti, Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese, Langhe, Lessona, Loazzolo, Malvasia di, Casorzo d’Asti 

o Casorzo, Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Monferrato, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Pinerolese, Rubino di 

Cantavenna, Sizzano, Strevi, Valli Ossolane, Valsusa, Verduno Pelaverga o Verduno and, of course, 

Piemonte DOC. 

The region does not produce any wines classed as IGT (Typical Geographical Indication), which is 

considered a lower classification, underscoring the high regard in which the region holds its vines 

and vineyards. To gain a better understanding of the production dynamics and multifaceted choice 

of Piedmont wines, we have selected some of the region’s leading wineries. 


65

CORDARA’S VINEYARDS BOAST EXCELLENT EXPOSURE, LOW YIELDS 

AND LOW ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT TECHNIQUES, ALL OF WHICH ARE 

PREREQUISITES FOR PRODUCING HIGH QUALITY GRAPES 

THE PRESENT-DAY CORDARA FAMILY HAS AN AGRICULTURAL HISTORY DATING 

BACK TO 1860 

CORDARA – CRAFTING MONFERRATO 

The Cordara winery is located in Castel Boglione in the province of Asti and manages a total 

of 5 hectares of vineyards, producing DOC and DOCG wines from indigenous grape varieties. 

The company is not organic but follows a traditional philosophy showing maximum respect 

for the environment and the production cycle. In the cellar too, the approach is traditional, 

with minimal use of winemaking inputs, thus allowing the product’s natural qualities to shine 

through without the need for external aids. The designations produced are Cortese dell’alto 

Monferrato DOC, Dolcetto d’Asti DOC, Dolcetto d’Asti superiore DOC, Freisa d’Asti DOC, 

Barbera d’Asti DOCG, and Barbera d’Asti superiore DOCG. 

Piedmont is best known, both in Italy and abroad, for the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. 

Monferrato has always been slightly more in the shadows than the Langhe region, but in recent 

years it has carved out a significant place for itself in the market through wine tourism and 

typical wines such as Barbera and Moscato. Before Nebbiolo rose to prominence, the wines 

were among the most important pours in the region and have now garnered international 

recognition. From the Cordara winery’s perspective, Barbera has enhanced the reputation and 

positioning of Monferrato wines due to the inception of the Nizza DOCG. 

Climate change has been having a significant impact in recent years, creating challenges both 

for growing grapes and across the production process. The challenges have been amplified for 

wineries such as Cordara, which do not use technologies such as temperature control and refrigeration 

systems. Despite these difficulties, the team’s experience and sensitivity is enabling 

the winery to preserve the balance and identity of the wines. 

In the future, the company will launch production of two appellations from a new 1.20 hectare 

vineyard: a Nizza DOCG and a Monferrato Rosso DOC from Syrah grapes. The company’s 

overall production is in the range of 20,000 – 25,000 bottles a year and the main export markets 

are Italy and Northern Europe. 


ITALY 

TERROIR 

BERSANO – ENCAPSULATING THE 

HISTORY OF NIZZA MONFERRATO 

AND PIEDMONT 

BERSANO’S MANAGING DIRECTOR FEDERICA MASSIMELLI AND 

HER SON FEDERICO, WHO IS DUE TO TAKE OVER THE WINERY 

Founded by Arturo Bersano in 1907, Bersano winery 

has preserved the best of the winemaking and social 

culture of the Langhe and Monferrato regions and is 

now taking it out to the world. The company is run 

by the four Massimelli sisters who have their sights 

squarely set on the future Managing director Federica 

Massimelli’s son, Federico, is in line to take over 

the winery, which owns 10 farms embracing more 

than 230 hectares of vineyards. Only the finest fruit 

is selected to produce wines that encapsulate the 

identity of the grapes without compromising on 

flavour or quality. 

Bersano produces Barolo DOCG Riserva Cannubi, 

Barolo DOCG Riserva Badarina, Barolo DOCG Badarina, 

Nizza DOCG Riserva, Nizza DOCG, Ruché Di 

Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, 

Nebbiolo D’alba DOC, Barbera D’alba DOC, Barbera 

D’asti DOCG, Barbera D’asti DOCG Superiore, 

Dolcetto D’alba DOC, Grignolino D’asti DOC, Gavi 

Di Gavi DOCG, Roero Arneis DOCG, Sauvignon 

Piemonte DOC, Piemonte Rosato DOC, Brachetto 

D’acqui DOCG, Pinot Spumante Brut DOC, Moscato 

Asti DOCG, as well as other VSQ traditional method 

sparkling wines. This extensive range of wines has 

helped shape the identity of the different parts of 

southern Piedmont. 

The Bersano winery views Piedmont’s image as very 

positive, both in Italy and worldwide. The region is 

famed for producing some of the most prestigious 

and renowned wines in the world, such as Barolo 

and Barbera, and over the past 10 years, Piedmont 

has also ramped up its wine tourism activities. At the 

same time, wineries have worked hard to improve 

their winemaking techniques, promote the region, 

and offer a showcase for native grape varieties. 

Also, by securing Unesco World Heritage status for 

Langhe-Roero and Monferrato in 2014, the image of 

local wines has been enhanced. 

Importantly, Piedmont wine producers are tackling 

climate change head-on by adapting their vineyard 

management strategies and aiming for greater 

environmental sustainability through research and 

THE HISTORY OF BERSANO IS CLOSELY LINKED TO THE NIZZA MONFERRATO RAILWAY, 

THANKS TO WHICH ARTURO BERSANO WAS ABLE TO TRANSPORT HIS WINES 


67

ITALY 

TERROIR 

STEFANO RICAGNO, CUVAGE’S MANAGER 

innovation. This includes choosing more resistant 

vines and using water responsibly, as well as developing 

innovative solutions and sharing best practices. 

Sustainability and adaptation are growing 

priorities within the wine industry to address climate 

challenges. 

Bersano plans to continue its focus on sustainability, 

innovation and the constant pursuit of excellence, 

aiming to reduce its environmental impact through 

sustainable farming practices and the responsible 

use of resources. Their goal is to do this by developing 

innovative winemaking techniques with indigenous 

grape varieties to offer unique, high quality wines 

which will allow them to continue to be a benchmark 

in the wine industry, stay ahead of market trends and 

increasingly promote wine as an experience. 

FOR CUVAGE, TRADITIONAL METHOD SPARKLING WINES 

AND, IN PARTICULAR, ALTA LANGA, REPRESENT THE 

FUTURE OF THE COMPANY AND THE REGION. 

CUVAGE – EXPRESSING 

REGIONAL IDENTITY THROUGH 

TRADITIONAL METHOD 

SPARKLING WINES 

Cuvage is located in Acqui Terme, in the Monferrato 

area, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 

2014. Since its inception in 2011, the aim has been to 

produce high quality traditional method sparkling 

wines, with a strong bond to the production area, 

and deliver a modern, elegant version of Piedmont 

sparkling wine traditions. Cuvage does not own its 

own vineyards but oversees around 80 hectares of 

local vineyards which have been selected based on the 

appellations produced and the quality of the grapes 

grown. The wines are labelled Alta Langa DOCG, 

Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Piemonte DOC Chardonnay, 

and Asti DOCG. 

Cuvage prioritises the entire region and its appellations, 

but Alta Langa DOCG is the company’s main 

focus. Using the traditional method enables international 

grape varieties to convey regional identity and 

paves the way for them to be experienced around the 

world. Piedmont is a global wine icon, establishing 

itself as a brand that is synonymous with long-standing 

traditions and history. In recent years it has 

taken further steps to position itself among the 

great wine regions by continuing to focus on excel- 


CECILIA ZUCCA AND HER 

DAUGHTER ELEONORA DEZZANI, 

THE TWO WOMEN AT THE HELM 

OF POGGIO RIDENTE 

lence, especially for wine tourism, which is a resource that will be increasingly important to the 

industry. Business is going very well, but Cuvage is concerned about the effects of climate change 

and is therefore taking measures in the vineyard and the winery to reduce waste and save energy. 

For Cuvage, identity and sustainability are key to the future. 

POGGIO RIDENTE – DIVERSITY AND RESPECT, 

FROM THE VINEYARD TO THE GLASS 

Poggio Ridente is located on Cocconato hill, home to the San Sebastiano and Vallìa vineyards. 

Due to the particular soil and climate, it is known as the ‘Monferrato Riviera’. Here, Cecilia Zucca 

concentrates on farming Barbera and Albarossa vines organically, alongside 3 hectares of recently 

planted Pinot Noir, Viognier, Riesling and Sauvignon, and the latest addition, Nebbiolo, planted 

just two years ago. The winery has 11 hectares of organically managed vineyards surrounded by 

woods and hedges. Sitting at an altitude of over 450 metres above sea level, the land is divided into 

three main vineyard blocks on the opposite sides of Cocconato. It produces Barbera d’Asti DOCG, 

Piemonte DOC Albarossa, Ruché Di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, Piemonte DOC Pinot Nero, 

Piemonte DOC Viognier, and Monferrato DOC Bianco. 

Poggio Ridente feels that Piedmont red wines have a good reputation nationally but also internationally, 

particularly in the USA. In Northern Europe there has been a slight downturn in sales, especially 

in recent years, with a return to simpler wines with lower alcohol content, but new markets 

such as China are showing positive signs. Producing organic wines offers marketing advantages but 

in terms of vineyard management, it is much more complex. It does, though, allow biodiversity to 

be preserved. The company’s latest projects are mainly aimed at harvesting and storing rainwater 

for winemaking needs and emergency irrigation. Solar panels have also been installed on the roofs 

to provide power for both the new structure and the storage facilities. 


69

ITALY 

TERROIR 

CHIARA SOLDATI, OWNER OF LA SCOLCA WINERY, AND HER SON FERDINANDO, WHO 

REPRESENTS THE SIXTH GENERATION OF THE HISTORIC GAVI WINE FAMILY 

Just six months ago, the winery opened new accommodation 

facilities called ‘Terrazza Vallìa’, offering 

wine tastings, guided vineyard tours, picnics in the 

vineyard, yoga days, wellness treatments and an 

E-bike experience ending with a wine tasting. The 

experiences, combined with the high quality wines 

that Piedmont can offer, form part of the region’s 

comprehensive wine tourism solutions. 

LA SCOLCA – THE PAST, PRESENT 

AND FUTURE OF GAVI 

THE STATE-OF-THE-ART EQUIPMENT AT LA SCOLCA ARE THE RESULT OF CONTINUOUS 

INVESTMENTS AIMED AT OPTIMISING PRODUCTION IN TERMS OF QUALITY, TIMING 

AND MANAGEMENT OF ENERGY RESOURCES 

La Scolca, a historic winery in the province of 

Alessandria on the border with Liguria, boasts 60 

hectares of vineyards – some of them over 60 years 

old – in the heart of Rovereto and Gavi. This family 

business, founded in 1919, has long been considered 

an ambassador of Gavi and offers a fusion of 

history, regional identity and innovation. The winery 

produces 17 labels and exports 80% of its production 

to 60 countries, including traditional export destinations 

such as the USA, Germany and the UK and 

emerging markets such as Africa, Asia and Central 

America. 

Promoting indigenous grape varieties, caring for the 

region and investing in technology in the vineyard 

and cellar are the pillars of La Scolca’s production 

philosophy. Hand harvesting, soft pressing, a new 

bottling plant to reduce water consumption and 

photovoltaic panels to guarantee energy self-sufficiency 

are just some of the examples of the winery’s 

focus on optimising production quality, timing and 

management of energy resources. It produces Gavi 

DOCG, Pinot Nero Piemonte DOC, and Sauvignon 

Piemonte DOC. 

According to Chiara Soldati, Piedmont has maintained 

its reputation both in Italy and abroad as a 

traditional region with a strong identity and a focus 

on authenticity. This basis has allowed it to adapt well 

to both new trends and the continuous challenges of 

the wine sector, while also maintaining a strong relationship 

with national and international consumers. 

Over the last 10 years, this perception has certainly 

increased, confirming the great appeal of Piedmont 

both in terms of winemaking quality and the variety 


THE UNMISTAKABLE SCULPTURE 

OF A BUNCH OF GRAPES THAT 

MARKS THE ENTRANCE TO THE 

FONTANAFREDDA ESTATE IN 

SERRALUNGA D’ALBA 

of the wines on offer, which range from whites to fine reds and sparkling wines made using the 

traditional method. 

Climate change has had a twofold impact. The first is the new challenges thrown up by the increasingly 

extreme weather conditions which have impacted the ability to manage the vineyards and 

maintain the minerality and freshness of the wines which are fundamental to Gavi DOCG. The 

second is that it has allowed new wine countries to enter the market, thus increasing the number 

of competitors. Responding to these issues requires an even more cohesive and collaborative 

approach in terms of promotion, especially at national level, to improve the promotion and protection 

of quality wines from Piedmont and the rest of Italy. 

Despite recently celebrating its 105th anniversary, La Scolca is firmly focused on the future. In 

2023, it gained FSSC 22000 and SNQPI certifications and welcomed the arrival of 4.0 agricultural 

equipment, a new bottling line and a water purification plant. Another forward-looking initiative 

is the recent creation of a wine experience catalogue to connect wine enthusiasts to the region and 

allow them to experience the company’s comprehensive range. All this has been achieved through 

important collaborations and a constant focus on taste and market trends. 

FONTANAFREDDA – PIEDMONT AND THE ‘GREEN RENAISSANCE’ 

Fontanafredda, producers of Barolo and Langhe wines in Serralunga d’Alba, was born in 1858 from 

the love between Vittorio Emmanuele II and Rosa Vercellana. Today, with 120 hectares of organic 

vineyards, it embodies a community that respects the land and aims to showcase the uniqueness 

of the region. The ethos in the vineyards is to fully enhance the character of each individual wine, 

while respecting and promoting the reciprocal relationship between the vines, the environment 

and people who farm the land. Fontanafredda completely avoids the use of synthetic fertilisers 


71

ITALY 

TERROIR 

and herbicides and has introduced controlled grassing to work to improve the vineyard soils. Fontanafredda’s 

objective is to recount the uniqueness of the area in every MGA (Additional Geographical 

Statement), and in every single vineyard, enhancing the biodiversity of the Langhe and preserving its 

history. Fontanafredda is one of the 181 MGAs named after a group of namesake vineyards at the start 

of Serralunga d’Alba. At the heart of the Fontanafredda MGA lie four of Fontanafredda’s most historic 

and iconic vineyards: Vigna La Rosa with 70 years of continuous production, Vigna S. Pietro, Vigna 

Bianca and Vigna Gallareto. Other notable vineyards include Vigna La Delizia in Serralunga, within 

the Lazzarito MGA, and Vigna La Villa in Barolo, in the Paiagallo MGA, which date back to the royal 

era and were commissioned by Emanuele Alberto, the son of the first King of Italy. 

Fontanafredda produces Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Barbera d’Alba DOC, 

Dolcetto Diano d’Alba DOCG, Dolcetto d’Alba DOC, Langhe Rosso DOC, Piemonte DOC Barbera, 

Piemonte DOC Dolcetto and Langhe DOC Nebbiolo, Alta Langa DOCG, Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 

DOC, Roero Arneis DOCG, Langhe DOC Arneis, Langhe DOC Chardonnay, Asti Spumante DOCG, 

Langhe DOC Riesling, and Moscato d’Asti DOCG. Its annual production corners 6% of the entire Barolo 

appellation. The winery produces 7 million bottles which are exported to over 80 countries. 

Fontanafredda views Piedmont as a region defined by its varied terroir and choice of high quality 

wines, a region that has successfully repositioned itself both nationally and internationally to overcome 

the challenges of climate change. The Nebbiolo, Barolo and Barbaresco grape varieties play a 

pivotal role in contributing to Piedmont’s fame around the world. Fontanafredda focuses on sustainable 

quality and is therefore committed to the ‘Green Renaissance’, which targets environmental, 

ethical and social sustainability through measures such as reducing emissions, using eco-sustainable 

packaging and involving the community in organic production. Fontanafredda manages a 12-hectare 

forest in the lower Langa region to increase biodiversity and supports organic farming without the use 

of herbicides, pesticides or synthetic fertilisers. Over the last sixty years, Fontanafredda has created a 

community of farmers who produce quality varieties including Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, and it is 

IN THE 19 TH -CENTURY CELLARS OF FONTANAFREDDA, AS TRADITION DICTATES, LARGE FRENCH AND 

CROATIAN OAK BARRELS (ALLIER AND SLAVONIAN) ARE USED TO AGE BAROLO AND THE FINE RED 

WINES OF THE LANGHE REGION (BARBARESCO, NEBBIOLO, BARBERA) 


ITALY 

TERROIR 

IN 2020, A NEW FONTANAFREDDA WAS BORN WITH THE AIM OF BEING EVEN BETTER THAN BEFORE 

AND PRIORITISING GREATER RESPECT FOR THE PLANET, UNDER THE ‘GREEN RENAISSANCE’ BANNER 

proud of the important social role it plays in the Langhe region, working with farmers to promote 

cleaner agriculture. 

Fontanafredda was certified as a ‘Sustainable Winery’ in 2021 and has implemented various 

measures for saving energy including the installation of cogeneration plants and solar panels 

and relamping. Sustainable mobility is promoted through electric forklift trucks, electric charging 

stations and a biomethane tractor introduced for the 2021 harvest. This year, a new project 

will be launched to reduce monoculture and continue to promote biodiversity. While the project 

details are currently still under wraps, it is likely that Fontanafredda will experiment with new 

processing systems to reduce the quantity, drift and root uptake, so as to have healthier plants 

and more vibrant soils. 

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE 

Piedmont is a kaleidoscope of grape varieties and vineyard sites with the ability to express individual 

identities through techniques which are increasingly focused on sustainability and regional 

recognition. While wines such as Dolcetto and Grignolino were traditionally considered more 

important than Barolo and Barbaresco, things have now changed. The fine wines of the Langhe 

have allowed the entire region to experience great success both in terms of wine tourism and positioning. 

Monferrato seems more inclined to focus on Barbera, but is also home to intriguing offerings 

such as Ruchè, a semi-aromatic variety showing great intensity and elegance. There is also a 

strong appeal for the micro-zones such as Carema and the excellence of North Piedmont such as 

Ghemme and Gattinara. Among the whites, in addition to Roero Arneis and Gavi, there is growing 

interest in the mineral Timorasso dei Colli Tortonesi and the versatile Erbaluce di Caluso. Last 

but not least, the aromatic Moscato and Brachetto are also part and parcel of the region’s history. 


73

ROUSSETTE, SAVOY’S STAR 

GRAPE VARIETY 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 



Set amidst the Alps, Savoy likes to scale the heights of wine. In the divine 

galaxy formed by three appellations – alongside Savoie and Seyssel – 

Roussette de Savoie shines with its light yellow hues, its unique local grape 

variety and its hallmark flavours that certainly deserve to be explored. 

DOMAINE PERRIER AT THE FOOT OF MONT GRANIER 


SAVOY 

APPELLATION 

DOMAINE MARECHAL, A CAPTIVATING EPIC OF MOUNTAIN WINEGROWING 

The snow-capped peaks and ski slopes in winter make way for sunshine and 

hiking in the summer across the steep mountain landscapes. This picture-postcard 

image recalls the most memorable moments spent in these unspoilt surroundings. 

Savoy’s vineyards are unique and can be likened to one big garden where 

the soils mirror the significant changes in geology, from the birth of the Alps to 

the emergence of part of the Jura mountain range. 

The Roussette de Savoie protected appellation was legally officialised in 1973 

and the wines are made from a single typical, local grape variety, which is one 

of their defining features. Although the varietal’s footprint remains limited due 

to the constraints of vineyard sites, Roussette, aka Altesse, is among the region’s 

star grape varieties. Allegedly, Duke Amédée II of Savoy brought the variety back 

from Cyprus in 1432 for the wedding of his son to the daughter of the King of 

Cyprus, hence the name Altesse meaning Highness chosen in her honour. From 

2,000 hectares of vineyards, the region produced 107,000 hectolitres of wine 

in 2022, including 15,000 of Altesse over 300 hectares. “Altesse produces fresh, 

aromatic wines driven by dried, delicate fruits in their youth”, explains Franck 

Berkulès, head of communications at the Savoy wine marketing board CIVS. “On 

the positive side, its wines have good ageability, lasting over 20 years. However, it 

is very fragile and sensitive to the heat with canes that can break easily”. Roussette 

de Savoie may well be challenging to produce, but it is nonetheless a staple in these 

exceptional mountain vineyards which are a unique feature of the French wine 

scene. The following examples should wet your whistle! 


75

DOMAINE MARÉCHAL, A FAMILY AFFAIR 

DOMAINE MARÉCHAL’S WINES GO DOWN VERY WELL WITH FOOD 

DOMAINE JEAN-FRANÇOIS MARÉCHAL: 

WHERE ALTESSE REIGNS SUPREME 

The story of Domaine Maréchal reads like a captivating epic of winegrowing across 

mountain hillsides. It began in 1989 with just three hectares, but through hard 

work, determination and passion, the vineyards have now been extended to a 

dozen or so hectares. Environmentally-friendly vineyard management techniques 

are part of an unwavering commitment and include grass cover with sustainable 

plant protection and heritage and landscape conservation. The ethos is very much 

about building up a winegrowing legacy that reflects a genuine attachment to the 

land. “Even though volumes are low, Roussette de Savoie reigns supreme”, believes 

Jean-François Maréchal. “It is a top quality grape that every winegrower crafts as 

their regional flagship with absolute freshness that you don’t find in other appellations”. 

Altesse de Beauregard is pure and elegant and leaves a lasting impression 

on the senses with its invigorating yet fairly plump palate, welcome intensity and 

a chiselled mineral note. “Often the palate delivers a measure of fullness with ripe 

fruit and a minerality that goes down very well with food”, adds Nathalie Maréchal. 

“The reputation of Savoy wines is growing rapidly. The wines can be found in the 

top gastronomic restaurants across France and in export markets too. For us, this 

means markets in the United States, Canada, Asia and Europe”. 

CAVE DES VINS FINS DE CRUET: A FOCUS ON QUALITY 

At the outbreak of the Second World War, winegrowers in three villages in the 

Combe de Savoie laid the foundations for what would become an extraordinary 


SAVOY 

APPELLATION 

journey. In this felicitous wine region, they pooled 

both their vineyards and their skills to create 

the Cave des Vins Fins de Cruet in 1939. Savoy’s 

largest co-operative now boasts 240 hectares 

under vine and 70 member growers, producing 

15,000 hectolitres annually which equates to 

15% of total output for the two appellations Vin 

de Savoie and Roussette de Savoie. The vines are 

harvested by hand and the fruit is fermented 

separately as each varietal reaches peak ripeness, 

yielding award-winning wines. “Our Roussettes 

show distinctive fruity and floral characters”, 

explains David Henriquet, a winegrower and 

administrator of the winery. “They mirror their 

unique and outstanding vineyard sites with beautiful 

aromas of pear and hawthorn standing out 

amidst a varied bouquet. This native grape variety 

is successful because it is rare and that is definitely 

a bonus in export markets”. The Savoie Altesse 

label is produced on clay-limestone soils with a 

South-South-East aspect and temperate climate. 

Its flowery, honeyed notes delivering unforgettable 

perfumes and its mouth-filling, rich and 

harmonious palate make it popular. However, it 

isn’t all plain sailing – the variety is fragile, tricky 

to handle and sensitive to excessive heat and 

dampness. “Altesse requires constant attention”, 

adds Henriquet. “It is still fairly low-key due to 

its low volumes, but it benefits from a focus on 

quality. Communications and promotion on the 

variety will help us spread the word”. 

HARVESTING AT THE CAVE DE CRUET 

THE WINERY AT CAVE DE CRUET 

DOMAINE ADRIEN VEYRON: 

HIGH STANDARDS 

Admittedly, the old Apremont vines at Domaine 

Adrien Veyron honour Jacquère, but this traditional 

local variety also makes room for Altesse, 

mirroring the winery’s high standards and quality. 

The story began in 1955 when Jean-Baptiste Veyron 

and his wife Victoria established a farm in Apremont 

with a few vines and some livestock. In the 

1970s, the development of winter sports brought 

a new consumer audience that discovered local 

products. In 1975, their son Adrien Veyron took 


77

SAVOY 

APPELLATION 

over the property and brought renewed impetus to the family business. He developed 

sales by canvassing restaurants in the ski resorts, wine merchants and stores 

selling regional products, enhancing the image and reputation of the winery. With 

his wife Nathalie, who began working with him in 1991, he enabled the property 

to thrive, and introduced sustainable vineyard management culminating in 

certification in 2018 which included protection of biodiversity. The Roussette de 

Savoie range encapsulates the mountain climate, the clay-limestone soils and the 

specific techniques used. The fruit is picked only when fully ripe then undergoes 

cold, skin-contact soaking. “The palate is rounded and pleasant but not sweet. It 

is smooth and appetising with a long, balanced finish typical of a top white wine”, 

claims Thomas Veyron, who joined the estate in 2009 at the age of 22. “It has to be 

said though that this remarkable grape variety absolutely does not like droughts 

and remains prone to disease, particularly powdery mildew”. Consequently, vine 

growth stalls and the leaves roll up when this occurs. “In my opinion, Roussette de 

Savoie is one of the top Savoy wines”, believes Veyron. “Its price can vary significantly 

from one production area to another and depending on the way it is made, 

but it is still an asset compared with whites made from Chardonnay or Sauvignon”. 

THE VEYRON FAMILY - THOMAS THE SON, FIFTH-GENERATION WINEGROWER, NATHALIE 

THE MOTHER AND ADRIEN THE FATHER AND FOUNDER OF ADRIEN VEYRON 


THE HUGE OPEN 

LANDSCAPES AROUND 

THE CAVE DE CRUET 

ADRIEN AND NATHALIE 

VEYRON IN THEIR 

VINEYARDS 

THE PERRIER FAMILY - 

GILLES, GILBERT, 

ALEXANDRE, PHILIPPE 

AND CHRISTOPHE 


79

SAVOY 

APPELLATION 

VIGNOBLE PERCEVAL: 

TYPICITY AND FRESHNESS 

GUY, PAUL, PASCAL AND GWENAËLLE PERCEVAL 

SNOW AT DOMAINE PERCEVAL 

This family-owned property founded in 1910 

produces distinctive wines with rounded 

tannins and assertive character. At its helm is 

Pascal Perceval and his wife Gwenaëlle who skilfully 

blend tradition, expertise and entrepreneurship 

in their 54-hectare vineyard, producing 

a staggering 40 different labels. Roussette 

de Savoie thrives on their clay-limestone soils, 

beguiling with its typicity, freshness, subtle 

aromas of honey, almond and citrus fruit and 

its weighty palate followed by a supple finish. 

“Altesse is only grown in Savoy, and that’s a 

bonus in export markets”, feels Pascal Perceval. 

“However it is quite challenging to grow as the 

canes are fragile and the variety is prone to 

disease. It is also an early-ripening grape with 

a very dense canopy”. The winery’s extensive 

portfolio, which includes Mondeuse, Abymes, 

Apremont, Chignin and Jacquère, also features 

a superb Roussette de Savoie, which makes the 

perfect appetiser or pairs with white meats, fish, 

seafood, hard cheeses or puddings. “Roussette is 

well-known and enjoyed in neighbouring regions 

but elsewhere it is fairly under-the-radar”, adds 

Perceval. “Its noteworthy differences with Chardonnay 

stem from the land. It is planted on 

hillsides and exposure to the sunshine is therefore 

shorter, with the limestone soils displaying 

greater character and roundness”. 

JEAN PERRIER ET FILS: 

A LONG-STANDING DYNASTY 

The story of this incredible dynasty meshes with 

the history of Savoy wines. Since 1853 and over 

7 generations, Domaine Jean Perrier & Fils has 

promoted an authentic lifestyle that is renowned 

internationally. Its 60 hectares produce primarily 

the prestigious Altesse grapes. “The varietal 

is amazing in that it yields white wines that are 

completely different depending on their vineyard 

sites and aspect”, comments Gilles Perrier. “It is 


SAVOY 

APPELLATION 

graceful and boasts finesse and the kind of hallmark 

roundness that export markets are very 

fond of”. The winery showcases two harmonious 

labels, Château de Monterminod and Fleur d’Altesse 

with its appealing nose gifted with floral 

notes and a fleshy, concentrated palate that is 

very lively. Its intense, exotic characters flow into 

a spicier finish. “Savoy is known for Jacquère, 

which is very widespread in our region”, adds 

Perrier. “Altesse follows in its wake and piques 

people’s curiosity, attracting consumers with a 

penchant for dry, fruity and very aromatic white 

wines. Their freshness and complexity definitely 

offer something for lovers of fine fare and for an 

international audience looking for new sensations 

and simple pleasures that can be shared 

with good food. Its production remains limited, 

however, particularly because it is heavily 

dependent upon weather conditions”. 

ALEXANDRE PERRIER, THE CELLAR MASTER AT THE FAMILY- 

OWNED DOMAINE PERRIER 

ROUSSETTE, THE FULL-FLEDGED 

RANGE STAPLE 

Roussette de Savoie’s reputation has grown apace 

over the past few years and it has successfully 

moved beyond the seasonal, holiday markets. 

It has also broken away from the traditional 

pairings with local cheese-based speciality foods, 

like raclette or tartiflette. “Altesse has its own 

trademark identity and characteristics stemming 

from Alpine vineyard sites. It is less vegetal 

than Sauvignon but just as powerful”, comments 

Franck Berkulès from the CIVS. “Compared with 

Chardonnay, it has a little extra fruit which shines 

through even with no oak influence”. 

In the extensive fresh, fruity white wine space, 

Roussette de Savoie is now a full-fledged range 

staple. Its winegrowers are working hard to raise 

awareness and create an impactful image for their 

industry with increasingly noticeable elegant, 

delicate pours. With price tags that are still reasonable, 

it has an edge over the competition, despite 

the fact that volumes are still fairly low, particularly 

for export markets. But then, the greatest 

pleasures are always worth fighting for… 

DOMAINE DU CHÂTEAU DE MONTERMINOD 


81

PROSIT GROUP 

FROM NOUGHT TO SIXTY (MARKETS) 

IN FIVE YEARS 

BY ELLEN BUDGE 


OF PROSIT GROUP 

In just five years, Prosit Group has gone from inception to a holding company 

with five wineries, a US import company and sixty export markets to its credit. 

Its CEO Sergio Dagnino and marketing manager Luca Maruffa explain the 

ethos driving the group’s development, and its plans for the future. 

THE VINEYARDS AT TORREVENTO ARE AT THE FOOT OF THE STORIED 13TH-CENTURY CASTEL DEL MONTE IN APULIA 


ITALY 

FOCUS 

CEO SERGIO DAGNINO, A MAN ON A MISSION 

Sergio Dagnino, who has extensive experience in the wine industry and other sectors, had a vision when 

he established Prosit Group in 2018, and that was to bring together wineries from across Italy to create 

a premium portfolio for both the domestic and export markets. Not a ground-breaking initiative you might 

think. But where Prosit Group differs from its Italian counterparts is that it has recruited the financial 

help of a ‘Made in Italy’ investment fund, Quadrivio Group, to drive a rate of growth that is nothing short 

of meteoric. “Prosit Group is not an investment fund project”, stresses Sergio Dagnino, however. “It is a 

wine industry-based initiative and Quadrivio has a long-term vision for its investment. To launch such an 

ambitious acquisition programme, we needed the help of an external investment fund”. 

SPECIFIC SELECTION CRITERIA 

The portfolio to date features wineries in five different Italian wine regions – Tuscany, Abruzzo, Veneto, Apulia 

and Lombardy. Again, the criteria for selecting the wineries – some of them under sole ownership, others with 

a majority shareholding – set Prosit Group apart from similarly structured companies. “One of our criteria is 

altitude”, explains Dagnino. “On average, the vineyards are located 350 metres above sea level”. Their positioning 

tends to be premium, though not luxury, and the wineries need to be complementary: “The aim is not just 

to buy a winery for its brand, but for the way that it fits within the range in terms of varietals and production 

possibilities”. Another leitmotif is a winery’s potential to grow, with investments injected into brand equity 

and marketing strategy. A case in point is the former co-operative Cantina di Montalcino in Tuscany. “In 2000, 

a lot of investment was made in terms of the structure of the winery, which was designed by an architect. 

We want to be perceived going forward as the most contemporary winery in Montalcino”, stresses Dagnino, 

who works with a select group of grape growers to improve the quality of the wines and reposition the brand. 


83

NESTORE BOSCO IS A 

HISTORIC WINERY NEAR 

THE MAIELLA MASSIF IN 

THE ABRUZZO REGION 

EACH WINERY HAS ITS USP 

Other unique acquisition choices include Tenuta di Collalbrigo in Veneto, now wholly owned by 

Prosit Group. “We weren’t interested in commoditised Prosecco”, explains Dagnino. “So we bought 

a very small winery, mainly producing DOCG Prosecco with Rive di Collalbrigo and some other 

styles of Prosecco”. In Apulia, aside from its well-established reputation, Prosit Group was drawn to 

Torrevento’s unique varietals: “It was the first winery in the 1980s and 1990s to create single varietal 

Nero di Troia, which in my opinion is a very interesting grape variety”, explains marketing manager 

Luca Maruffa. Nestore Bosco, in the Abruzzo region, brings with it very well-known varietals such as 

Montepulciano and Pecorino along with the storied Cerasuolo. In each case, highly renowned and 

respected winemakers are associated with the wineries, from Riccardo Brighigna at Nestore Bosco 

to Leonardo Palumbo at Torrevento and Riccardo Pucci and Silvia Giani at Cantina di Montalcino. 

Prosit Group intends to leverage their reputations and their expertise through winemaker signature 

labels and also an “affordable luxury” project currently being finalised in Bolgheri. The company has 

partnered with Count Gaddo della Gherardesca to produce a Brunello di Montalcino, a rosé and a 

white, and its winemakers are all providing input for the wines due to be presented in Castagneto 

Carducci in May. 

SCALING UP PRODUCTION 

The project illustrates Prosit Group’s intention to offer a broad-ranging array of wines, running 

the gamut in terms of regions, price points and target markets. In 2022, it bought Casa Vinicola 

Caldirola, owner of the popular Italian off-trade brand La Cacciatora. The brand has recently been 

re-launched and embraces a range of varietals from Sicily and other regions, bottled with screwcaps 

which is a rarity for the Italian market, though it will also be shipped overseas. La Cacciatora was 

not the only asset that attracted Prosit Group’s investment: “The acquisition was intended to allow 

us greater space to develop large-scale production of wines using its facilities”, shares Dagnino. 


ITALY 

FOCUS 

A GATEWAY TO THE US MARKET 

Similarly, the purchase of Connecticut-based 

Italian import company Votto Vines Importing 

is strategically designed to ramp up the group’s 

presence in the all-important US market. The 

small-medium importer established by the Votto 

family has an office in New York and its headquarters 

in Connecticut. Its role will be to provide a 

gateway to the United States for a notoriously 

fragmented Italian wine industry. “Many Italian 

wine companies are too small and not organised 

enough to push their wines in the right channels 

and markets through a well-defined proposition 

and positioning. Prosit Group aims to bring 

together wineries with amazing potential to 

create synergies, especially in marketing, distribution, 

sales and production, helping individual 

companies to develop a more complex proposition 

without wresting control of them”, stresses 

Maruffa. 

“OUR FOCUS IS ON WINERIES WITH GREAT, UNEXPRESSED 

POTENTIAL”, EXPLAINS PROSIT GROUP HEAD OF 

MARKETING LUCA MARUFFA 

CATERING TO MULTIPLE MARKETS 

The US is just one market, albeit a significant 

one, out of a collection of 60 different destinations 

where Prosit Group now ships in excess of 

26.5 million bottles of wine generating 83 million 

euros in revenue. “Aside from the US, one of our 

most important markets currently is Canada, particularly 

Quebec”, explains Maruffa. “Torrevento is 

also well-established in Germany and we’re doing 

well in Benelux with selected importers. South-East 

Asia is offering us the opportunity to open up new 

markets and closer to home, in Italy, we are developing 

the on-trade”. Innovation is viewed as a way of 

catering to multiple audiences and future-proofing 

the group – from screwcaps to the no-lo segment, 

lighter bottles and recycled paper for the packaging, 

a multi-pronged approach aims to respond to 

a wide range of needs, “without betraying the identity 

of the companies because the wines produced 

show great typicity”. Although the number of 

acquisitions over the past five years has been staggering, 

and led to the ongoing rebranding process, 

there is every likelihood that it will continue going 

forward. “We are always looking for new acquisitions”, 

confirms Dagnino. Watch this space…. 

THE FORMER CO-OPERATIVE WINERY IN MONTALCINO 

WAS DESIGNED BY AN ARCHITECT IN 2000 


85

SOUTH AMERICA GOES 

SPARKLING 

BY MAURICIO LLAVER 



Sparkling wines are beginning to make festive noises in South 

America and are rippling outwards to global markets. Argentina, 

Uruguay and Ecuador are witnessing new developments that 

deserve a toast. 

THE CRUZAT WINERY IS LOCATED IN LUJÁN DE CUYO, MENDOZA. THE GRAPES COME FROM THIS AREA AND THE UCO VALLEY 


SOUTH AMERICA 

DISCOVERY 

PHILIPPE CARAGUEL’S VINEYARD IN SAN JOSÉ, TUPUNGATO, THE LOCATION FOR THE CHARDONNAY GRAPES 

In South America, several wineries are developing their own sparkling wines, guided by 

the classic principles of Champagne winemaking while seeking to elicit the best from 

their own terroirs. From Cruzat and Philippe Caraguel in Mendoza, Argentina to Viña 

Eden in Pueblo Eden, Uruguay and Dos Hemisferios in Guayas, Ecuador, emerging trends 

are showing that the search for excellence knows no borders or geographical limitations. 

CRUZAT: TRADITIONAL METHOD ONLY 

Cruzat is the only Argentinian winery which focuses solely on producing sparkling 

wines using the traditional method. It was founded 20 years ago by a group of Chilean 

businessmen who joined forces with agronomist and winemaker Pedro Federico Rosell, 

considered a legend of Argentinian sparkling wines. With Champagne as their reference 

for elegance and savoir faire, they only make sparkling wines from Chardonnay and Pinot 

Noir grapes. Originally, one of the priorities of the project was to find the most appropriate 

place to plant the vineyards and build the winery, and the Mendoza areas of Luján de Cuyo 

and the Valle de Uco met all the requirements: they had altitude, well-drained soils and 

significant diurnal shift. In addition, the vitality of the Argentinian market was one of the 

main attractions for the venture. 


87

LORENA MULET, 

THE WINEMAKER 

AT CRUZAT 

In 2011, Pedro Rosell asked Lorena Mulet, one of his students at the Faculty of 

Agronomy, to join the winemaking team. Today Mulet is not only in charge of all 

the wines, she is also one of the most recognised and respected winemakers in 

the Argentinian wine industry, especially for her knowledge of sparkling wines. 

“At Cruzat, using the traditional method, we seek to produce sparkling wines 

with a special style characterised by a fine, elegant, articulate bouquet. The wines 

combine tradition with knowledge and technology”, explains Mulet. Cruzat 

markets high-end, internationally-awarded sparkling wines, such as Millésime, 

the winery’s icon, the single-vineyard Finca la Dama and Cruzat Orgánico, and 

the Cruzat Cuvée and Premier Lines, which spend 24 and 12 months on the lees 

respectively. 

New releases and innovations include Cruzat Pet Nat – made using the ancestral 

method – Cruzat Naranjo, the first orange sparkling wine on the market; Cruzat 

Cosecha Temprana, which is low in alcohol and calories; and Cruzat ICE, designed 

to be drunk with ice. All the wines are vegan and certified by LIAF. 

Also, inspired by the traditional liqueur made by the great French Champagne 

producers, Cruzat produces a Ratafia at the end of each vintage. It is unique in the 

Argentinian market and took several years of trial and research. For the Pinot Noir 

Ratafia, the base wine was previously macerated with nuts, such as walnuts and 

hazelnuts, and matured in lightly toasted French oak. For the Ratafia Chardonnay, 

the base wine was macerated with orange and lime peel. The process culminates 

with distillation in copper stills. Cruzat products are marketed throughout Argentina 

and exported to 15 countries, including the United States, Chile, Switzerland, 

Australia, Peru, the United Kingdom, Italy and Japan. 


SOUTH AMERICA 

DISCOVERY 

Winemaker Mulet explains that “being the only 

winery in Argentina focusing exclusively on 

producing sparkling wines using the traditional 

method is an important differentiator. Our 

know-how is unique because we are specialists 

in what we do and we pour all our energy into 

sparkling offerings. In Argentina there are very 

good producers of sparkling wines and together 

with imported products they form a broad range 

for increasingly knowledgeable and demanding 

consumers. This creates a virtuous circle that 

drives the segment on a daily basis”. 

CRUZAT SEEKS TO PRODUCE SPARKLING WINES WITH A STYLE CHARACTERISED BY A FINE, 

ELEGANT AND ARTICULATE BOUQUET 

PHILIPPE CARAGUEL: 

A MENDOZA NATIVE WITH 

FRENCH EXPERIENCE 

Philippe Caraguel is so confident in his sparkling 

wines that he decided to give his own name to his 

products. He first studied agronomy in Mendoza 

and worked at the Chandon subsidiary in Argentina, 

where he gained his first experience with 

sparkling wines. But then he switched to France 

thanks to a scholarship to study for a Masters 

in Viticulture and Oenology at the University of 

Montpellier, where he graduated with the French 

National Diploma in Oenology. Once he finished 

his Master’s degree, Caraguel went to Champagne, 

where he did a placement at Moët & Chandon, 

continuing to work with the company for a year 

and a half subsequently. 

That experience would prove to be decisive. Caraguel 

recounts: “I was part of a very professional 

group led by Richard Geoffroy, the-then chef de 

cave at Dom Perignon. I gained a huge amount of 

knowledge which later, when I returned to Argentina, 

I applied to my own professional project”. 

His project, Philippe Caraguel, has a French 

partner, Jean-Etienne Beaune, who owns the 

Atamisque winery in Tupungato, in Mendoza’s 

Uco Valley. “The art of making our sparkling wines 

begins with growing Chardonnay grapes on the 

best plots on our estate, located in outstanding 

sites in San José, Tupungato, in the Uco Valley. 

These produce fruit of the highest winemaking 

PHILIPPE CARAGUEL’S EXPERTISE COMES PARTLY FROM A PLACEMENT AT MOËT & 

CHANDON, IN FRANCE’S CHAMPAGNE REGION 


89

SOUTH AMERICA 

DISCOVERY 

quality”, explains Caraguel. “The soil is of alluvial origin, with a loamy texture and a 

rocky sub-stratum. The yield is 7,000 kg/ha for the Chardonnay which is trained using 

a double Guyot system with drip irrigation”. 

Caraguel uses Dom Ruinart as an example for Chardonnay management, based on his 

in-depth experience in France. “The sparkling wine truly bowled me over with its great 

delicacy and depth, and working with Dom Ruinart’s Chardonnay base wines was a 

source of inspiration for me”, he says, adding: “Extended Chardonnay maturation is not 

supposed to produce great complexity, but with proper vineyard management aimed at 

greater concentration, remarkable results can be achieved. That’s what I am looking for 

with my Grande Cuvée sparkling wines”. 

Once the Chardonnay reaches the desired level of ripeness, the winemaking process 

begins. Applying his French experience, Caraguel predictably uses the traditional 

method, which he considers to be the most appropriate for making exceptional sparkling 

wines. The method involves secondary bottle fermentation, with the addition of the 

tirage liqueur made from the base wine, yeast and sugar. 

For the Philippe Caraguel Grande Cuvée Extra Brut, the secondary fermentation occurs 

at 15°C, which aims to produce smaller bubbles. And once the fermentation is complete, 

the wine is kept in contact with the yeast for 24 months to achieve greater creaminess. 

The process ends with the addition of dosage, a syrup made from sparkling wine, sugar 

and French Cognac, which is dosed at 8g/l and then matured for 6 months. 

Caraguel defines his wine “by its elegance and complexity. It displays a yellow hue 

with golden reflections. On the nose, it delivers a captivating balance of white fruits, 

notes of honey and toast. Its fine bubbles form a persistent pearl necklace, and on the 

PHILIPPE CARAGUEL HAS A FRENCH PARTNER, JEAN-ETIENNE BEAUNE, OWNER OF THE 

ATAMISQUE WINERY IN MENDOZA’S UCO VALLEY 


PHILIPPE CARAGUEL 


91

SOUTH AMERICA 

DISCOVERY 

MARCELO BREGANTI, THE WINEMAKER AT VIÑA EDEN 

palate, it offers a creamy sensation with a delicate 

mousse and a long, unctuous finish”. Based on his 

extensive experience, Caraguel argues that “Argentina, 

with the quality of its fruit and its expertise, 

produces sparkling wines on a par with the best 

examples in the world”. 

VIÑA EDEN: PARADISE IN 

URUGUAY 

VIÑA EDEN AND THE SEARCH FOR A DISTINCTIVE STYLE, STARTING WITH THE 

ARCHITECTURE ITSELF 

Located in Maldonado, very near the Atlantic 

Ocean and a few minutes from the famous 

Uruguayan seaside resort of Punta del Este, the 

history of Viña Eden began in 2009. It started 

when a Brazilian couple arrived in the area of 

Pueblo Eden and fell in love with it, defining it as 

“quiet, near the sea and full of rocky hills, with a 

perfect terroir for producing wine”. Since then, 

they have poured all their efforts into developing 

a unique style, typical of a boutique winery, taking 

an artisanal, careful and sustainable approach to 

the production of high quality wines. 

Viña Edén produces white and rosé sparkling 

wines, both made using the traditional method, 

with a secondary fermentation in the bottle in the 

winery’s cellar at low ambient temperatures in 

order to obtain fine bubbles. According to winemaker 

Marcelo Breganti, “our sparkling wine is 

Brut Nature, with no added sugar or sulphites, 

and no dosage. It is simply disgorged and corked, 

with nothing added. It has more than 18 months of 

bottle fermentation and is disgorged as required”. 

For the rosé sparkling wine, Pinot Noir is the 

mainstay grape with a dash of 8% Chardonnay, for 

greater freshness. “The wine is designed as a rosé 

from the moment it is fermented, and not a white 

wine to which some red is added to give it colour”, 

stresses Breganti. The collection also includes the 

Traditional Method Sur Lies 3D, which is in its 

purest form, with no disgorgement, “giving consumers 

the opportunity to continue ageing with the 

yeast in suspension and decide on when to open 

the bottle”, explains Breganti. “It is a sparkling 

wine that is visually different to others because it 

is cloudier due to the lees that remain in suspen- 


SOUTH AMERICA 

DISCOVERY 

sion through beading. When you drink it, however, it adds a new dimension to 

the palate”. 

The sparkling wine lines are Viña Edén (USD 45) and Pueblo Edén (USD 24), and 

the sales strategy includes both the domestic market and exports. In Uruguay, the 

products are available in specialised stores, selected restaurants, on the website 

(www.vinaeden.com) and at the winery. The sparkling wines are exported to Brazil, 

the United Kingdom, Spain, Argentina and Mexico. 

Viña Edén owns 7 hectares planted to Tannat, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Marselan and 

Chardonnay, and is currently adding a new Cabernet Franc vineyard, which will 

increase its total area to 9 hectares. It uses renewable energy in all its processes. 

Over 80% of the energy consumed is renewable, which has led to government 

recognition for its energy efficient practices and measures. “Uruguay has a long 

history of winemaking, but Viña Eden wanted to do something different, so its 

founders travelled to hundreds of wineries around the world to establish an innovative 

and disruptive venture. The winery’s concept has always been based on three 

fundamental pillars: quality wine, wine tourism and sustainability and these have 

accompanied the entire process through to this day”, concludes Viña Edén. 

VIÑA EDÉN HAS AN ARTISANAL, CAREFUL AND SUSTAINABLE APPROACH TO VINEYARD 

MANAGEMENT AND WINEMAKING 


93

JUAN BANOVSKY, 

THE WINEMAKER 

AT DOS HEMISFERIOS 

DESTINO: HALF OF THE WORLD’S DNA 

The Dos Hemisferios winery is located in San Miguel del Morro, in the province 

of Guayas, in southwestern Ecuador, a region characterised by its sunny days, cool 

nights, chalky soils and a continuous sea breeze. This was the birthplace for Destino, 

a sparkling wine made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Malbec grapes. Its challenge 

was to position itself as the first 100% Ecuadorian origin sparkling wine. 

“We want to be seen for our sparkling or high quality wines, and plant a flag in the 

wine world with our products while showing the essence of the Ecuadorian terroir”, 

says Juan Banovsky, the project’s winemaker. He highlights “our unique characteristics, 

such as exotic and tropical fruits, aromas and flavours typical of our limestone 

soil, and a freshness that comes from the proximity to our Ecuadorian coast and the 

Humboldt Current”. 

Destino is blended from three grape varieties: the classic varietals Chardonnay and 

Pinot Noir, which represent 50% of the base wine and instil freshness and elegance, 

and Malbec, for the remaining 50%, providing more structure and fruit characters. 

The grapes are harvested by hand and in equal parts, which ensures quality and 

precision in the selection of the raw material. The sparkling wine is made using the 

traditional method, with a secondary fermentation in the bottle for three months, 

followed by ageing in the bottle on the lees for a further 24 months, in optimal ageing 


ROBERT WRIGHT, 

THE CEO OF 

DOS HEMISFERIOS 

conditions. Riddling, disgorging and dosage are carried out manually. According to 

Banovsky, “being 10 kilometres from the sea ensures expression of saline characters 

and freshness in our sparkling wine”. 

In terms of food pairings, Dos Hemisferios recommends seafood such as oysters, 

Ecuadorian ceviche, white fish tiraditos and sushi as well as various types of 

cheese, especially those with intense and salty flavours. Desserts are also another 

option. “Destino represents a winemaking milestone for our country, as it is the 

first sparkling wine showing these characteristics. The achievement highlights 

the great capacity and potential of our land for producing high quality wines”, 

claims Banovsky. 

The price per bottle is US$26.79 plus tax. Due to limited production of just 3,300 bottles 

per year, it is only currently marketed in the Ecuadorian domestic market, although 

export plans are already being studied with distributors in Germany and the United 

Kingdom. “Our sales strategy is based on positioning it as the first sparkling wine of 

100% Ecuadorian origin, which invites people to get to know Ecuador and celebrate 

great moments and achievements, including the fact that we have made this great 

wine. This unique sparkling wine encourages us to see Ecuador as a wine destination 

with half of the world’s DNA”, says Robert Wright, CEO of Dos Hemisferios. Destino’s 

winemaking philosophy is inspired by the great examples from Champagne, hence its 

focus on complexity and elegance, combined with the distinctive contribution of the 

Ecuadorian climate and soil as differentiators. 


95

CLASSIC BEVERAGE, A FOCUS ON 

SUSTAINABILITY AND ARTISAN WINES 

BY SYLVAIN PATARD 


OF THE COMPANY 

Classic Beverage was launched by Classic Fine Foods UK 

in June 2023 with the aim of expanding the company’s 

beverage portfolio. Jérôme Poussin, head of the beverage 

department, explains the company’s ethos, along with 

current trends in the UK market. 

JÉRÔME POUSSIN APPLIES THE COMPANY’S MOTTO TO THE LETTER, AND 

THAT IS TO BRING YOU THE VERY BEST FROM AROUND THE WORLD 

Tell us about the Group Classic Fine Foods. What is the 

concept? 

As the only fine foods specialist to operate in 9 different countries 

across Europe, The Middle East, and Asia with 26 local 

offices and teams, Classic Fine Foods is uniquely positioned to 

offer unparalleled access to the best ingredients from across 

the globe, regardless of cuisine or cooking style. Since 2021, 

we have also supplied clients in new geographical areas including 

the Indian Ocean and the Caribbean Islands to name a 

few, thanks to our brand new Classic Fine Foods International 

located in the heart of Rungis market in France. 

Our mission is to source and bring exceptional ingredients 

and unique gourmet products to the most demanding chefs 

around the world, whatever their type of cuisine and cooking 

style. 

Through close partnerships with our selected suppliers, we 

deliver on demand, the highest quality ambient, fresh and 

frozen products to the best restaurants, hotels and pastry 

shops, and also supply the most prestigious department 

stores and gourmet food outlets. Classic Fine Foods’ success 

is based on the team’s finely honed spirit of entrepreneurship 

and the very close relationships it forms with customers and 

suppliers all over the world. 

Tell us more about the recent development of Classic Beverage 

in the UK. When was it launched? Why was it launched? 

Classic Beverage by Classic Fine Foods UK was launched in 

June 2023 because we wanted to expand our beverage selection 

at Classic Fine Foods UK and position ourselves as experts 

in this field by creating our own brand for this category. 

The Classic Beverage category has allowed the Classic Fine 

Foods UK team to expand their knowledge and be able to offer 

more to their customers. 


UNITED KINGDOM 

IMPORTER 

What are your goals at Classic Beverage and 

what are your strengths? 

At Classic Fine Foods our philosophy is simple – 

to bring you the very best from around the world. 

At Classic Beverage we are always on the lookout 

for exceptional artisan wines, brands synonymous 

with quality, identity of terroir, reasoned 

production and moderate prices, which we 

can offer to our customers. We achieve this by 

building strong relationships with producers, 

thus enabling us to offer high quality wines to 

our customers. 

JÉRÔME POUSSIN’S WHOLEHEARTED COMMITMENT OFTEN MEANS THAT HE EVEN VISITS 

HIS SUPPLIERS’ VINEYARDS 

What is wine’s share of your beverage portfolio 

and how do you source producers and products? 

Wines represent 40% of our selection and we are 

still developing it, mainly within the European 

zone as well as with new-generation wines, using 

biodynamic methods. It is important that all our 

wine suppliers have sustainable practices, that 

they take great care of the environment, actively 

encourage and maintain healthy soils for their 

vines and use traditional methods in their winemaking. 

The sourcing is based on already-established 

relationships, within work and recommendations 

as well as family and friends. It was 

important to build Classic Beverage with close 

partners who share the same philosophy as us. 

Regarding wine, what are the current trends in 

the UK and the go-to products? 

There are several factors, and our clients are increasingly 

looking for wines produced sustainably 

– there are great environmental concerns 

and a desire for healthier products. They are also 

becoming more adventurous, exploring wines 

from lesser-known regions and grape varieties, 

and are willing to spend more on high-quality 

wines. The UK is a major world platform for 

wines, as you have access to any region across 

the world, although English sparkling wines, 

in particular, have been gaining recognition. 

The quality has been improving and they provide 

some great alternatives to other wines, such 

as Champagne… 


97

LILY COLLINS: WOMEN HAVE TAKEN 

OWNERSHIP OF WINE 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES 

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

34-year-old Lily Collins is the beautiful daughter of 

Genesis frontman Phil Collins. She is also an actress and 

the heroine of ‘Emily in Paris’, a series that has achieved 

global success and provided a showcase for the French 

luxury goods industry, for its fashion, gastronomy and its 

most iconic wines… 

In ‘Emily in Paris’, your character seems to be drinking a top 

French wine in every episode. Would you say that wine plays 

a pivotal role in the Netflix series? 

It’s nothing new, you know. Wine has become a part of the 

narrative symbolising social success and female empowerment. 

In the past, in films or series, the enjoyment of drinking wine 

was the prerogative of men. Women were side-lined and were 

simply onlookers as men savoured exceptional beverages – they 

weren’t able to indulge in the same way. Now, there are female 

sommeliers in all the top restaurants and I can assure you that 

they are every bit as competent as their male counterparts! 

So ‘Emily in Paris’ provides an amazing showcase for French 

wines… 

Absolutely! But the idea is not simply to introduce any old wine 

with no thought or strategy. The glass or bottle of wine must be 

a natural and integral part of the scene, in an organic way. They 

must adapt to the situation and not the opposite way around, 

because you can’t hoodwink viewers! They realise immediately 

when someone is trying to sell them something! You’re right 

in saying that the series is a showcase for the French lifestyle. 

I’ve been told that a lot of my fellow Americans were curious 

to know about the wines we taste, the restaurants we eat in 

and the brands of clothes we wear. I admit that Paris is in 

some ways idealised and fantasised in the series, but what’s 

important is promoting the destination. French appellations 

are synonymous with excellence and prestige. I read an article 

stating that wine is France’s second largest export industry 

98 

SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

STARS 

& WINE 

after aviation and ahead of cosmetics, and that Americans are now the largest consumers 

of French wines by volume! 

Do you remember your very first experience with French wine? 

A few years ago, I would often visit the tourist areas in Paris. Then one day I realised that 

perhaps the time had come to break the habit. That’s how I started wandering aimlessly along 

the streets, guided by my desires and my instincts. I would deliberately get lost, which led 

me to discover places that weren’t necessarily featured in the guide books. 

Which ones for example? 

I remember one evening when I stopped at a wine bar in the Marais district. It was summer 

and the tables were laid up outside and in the street. The atmosphere was festive and 

everyone was singing. I can still remember the delicious chilled rosé I was served that day! 

Another memorable experience was during a cocktail party on the Ile de la Cité when I got 

the opportunity to discover Saint-Emilion. When I saw the year on the bottle, 1953, I was 

amazed. Just think, my father was only two when the wine was bottled! (laughs) 


99

CONTACT 

DETAILS 

Loire Valley - Pages 10-22 

• Domaine Jean-Max Roger: 

Tel. +33 2 48 54 32 20 - 

www.jean-max-roger.fr 

• Domaine Philippe Raimbault: 

Tel. +33 2 48 79 29 54 - 

www.philipperaimbault.fr 

• Domaine Henry Natter: 

Tel. +33 2 48 69 58 85 - www. 

henrynatter.com 

• Domaine La Barbotaine: 

Tel. +33 2 48 79 02 32 - 

www.sancerre-frederic-champault.fr 

• Domaine Moulin des Vrillères: 

Tel. +33 2 48 79 38 28 - 

www.sancerre-online.com 

• Michel Vattan: 

Tel. +33 2 48 79 40 98 

• Vignobles Gitton Père & Fils: 

Tel. +33 6 37 44 91 24 - 

www.gitton.fr 

Alsace - Pages 24-31 

• Cave de Ribeauvillé: 

Tel. +33 3 89 73 20 35 - 

www.vins-ribeauville.com 

• Maison Zoeller: 

Tel. +33 6 60 85 33 49 - 

www.vins-zoeller.fr 

• Les Vignobles Ruhlmann-Schutz: 

Tel. +33 3 88 92 41 86 - 

www.ruhlmann-schutz.fr 

• Domaine Clément et Matthieu 

Weck: 

Tel. +33 3 89 49 31 89 - 

www.weck.alsace 

• Domaine Aimé Stentz: 

Tel. +33 3 89 80 63 77 - 

www.vins-stentz.fr 

• Vins d’Alsace Kuehn: 

Tel. +33 3 89 78 42 10 - 

www.kuehn.fr 

Portugal - Pages 32-41 

• Wines of Portugal: 

winesofportugal.com 

• Vicente Faria: 

Tel. +351 229 260 067 - 

vicentefaria.com 

• Caves Campelo: 

Tel. +351 253 831 399 - 

correio@campelo.pt 

• Bacalhôa: 

Tel. +351 212 198 060 - 

info@bacalhoa.pt 

South Africa - Pages 42-51 

• Thor Vintners: 

Tel. +27 722381703 - 

www.thorvintners.com 

• Nativo Wines: 

Tel. +27 83 679 2069 - 

www.nativo.co.za 

• Leeuwenkuil: 

Tel. +27 845800205 - 

www.leeuwenkuilfv.co.za 

• Riebeek Valley Wine Co: 

Tel. +27 822202702 - 

www.riebeekvalleywineco.com 

• Org de Rac: 

Tel. +27 723793758 - 

www.orgderac.com 

• Allesverloren: 

Tel. +27 22 461 2320 - 

www.allesverloren.co.za 

• Knolfontein: 

Tel. +27 76 834 3017 - 

https://knolfonteinwines.co.za 

Germany - Pages 52-59 

• Einig-Zenzen: 

Tel. +49 2653 9907 24 - 

https://einig-zenzen.de 

• Ruppertsberg: 

Tel. +49 6326 962 97 0 - 

www.ruppertsberger.de 

• Studier: 

Tel. +49 6237 977 28 0 - 

https://weingut-studier.de 

• Papaloves Wine: 

Tel. +49 211 540 80 685 - 

www.bedoba.wine 

• Enovative: 

Tel. +49 711 490 52 270 - 

www.enovative.de 

Spain - Pages 60-63 

• Bodegas Piqueras: 

Tel. +34 967 341 482 - 

www.bodegaspiqueras.com 

Piedmont - Pages 64-73 

• Bersano: 

Tel. +39 0141 720211 - 

www.bersano.it 

• Cordara: 

Tel. + 39 349 5523494 - 

www.cordaravini.com 

• Fontanafredda: 

Tel. +39 0173 626 111 - 

www.fontanafredda.it 

• La Scolca: 

Tel. +39 0143 682176 - 

www.lascolca.net 

• Cuvage: 

Tel. +39 0144 371600 - 

www.cuvage.com 

• Poggio Ridente: 

Tel. +39 351.9703573 - 

www.poggioridente.it 


CONTACT 

DETAILS 

Savoy - Pages 74-81 

• Domaine Jean-François Maréchal: 

Tel. +33 6 03 25 41 96 - 

www.marechal-apremont.com 

• Cave des Vins Fins de Cruet: 

Tel. +33 4 79 84 28 52 - 

www.cavedecruet.com 

• Domaine Adrien Veyron: 

Tel. +33 4 79 28 20 20 - 

www.vins-veyron.com 

• Vignoble Perceval: 

Tel. +33 4 79 28 13 13 - 

www.domaine-perceval.com 

• Jean Perrier et Fils: 

Tel. +33 4 79 28 11 45 - 

www.vins-perrier.com 

Italy - Pages 82-85 

• Prosit group: 

Email: info@prositgroup.it - 

www.prositgroup.it 

South America - Pages 86-95 

• Cruzat: 

Tel. +54 9 2616839422 - 

https://bodegacruzat.com/ 

• Philippe Caraguel: 

Tel. +54 9 2616991118 

• Vina Eden: 

Tel. +55 21 985651322 - 

www.vinaeden.com 

• Dos Hemisferios: 

Tel. +593 97 9882116 - 

https://doshemisferios.com/ 

United-Kingdom - Pages 96-97 

• Classic Fine Foods: 

Tel. +44 20 7627 9666 - 

www.classicfinefoods.co.uk 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France - Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: 

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe 

Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, 

Olivier Delorme, Gonzalo Fernandez, Matthieu 

Gaillard, Géraldine Spencer, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Camille 

Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle Escande, 

Mauricio Llaver, Matthias Neske, Sylvain Patard, 

Francesco Saverio Russo, Samarie Smith-Meletiou 

DipWSET, Frank Rousseau 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS Traduções 

Sales and Marketing Director: 

Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26 

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

Bordeaux: Frédéric Comet: 

+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com 

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: 

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - 

nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - 

Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - 

caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - 

ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com 

Charentes and samples manager France: 

Sandrine Thibault: +33 6 62 76 07 15 - 

s.thibault@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente: 

(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray: 

(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Central and Eastern Europe: 

Philippe Ricros: +33 7 61 76 01 22 - 

pricros@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Latam: Vivien Morvan: 

+33 7 61 76 01 02 – vmorvan@gilbertgaillard.com 

Marketing coordinator: Tatiana Bellanger: 

+33 7 87 07 78 76 - tbellanger@gilbertgaillard.com 

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil: 

+33 6 77 12 77 98 - tapiokaconseil@gmail.com 

Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25 

Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65 

Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé: 

+33 6 87 27 12 65 

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa: 

Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 - 

petru@gilbertgaillard.com 

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 - 

oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com 

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219 

International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd - 

http://www.pineapple-media.com 

Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial director: 

Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: First quarter 2024 • Legal publication n° pending: ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly 

prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


101

PAGES 103 TO 114 

TOP WINES 

OUR SPRING SELECTION 

THE SECOND TASTING SESSION FOR 2024 GETS UNDERWAY 

After a first tasting session which started at the beginning of January and ended at the end of 

March, the second session got underway on April 2. Building on our appeal in France, along 

with Italy, Spain and Portugal, we have been able to continuously explore new opportunities in 

the wine regions of Eastern Europe, with trade exhibitions in February (Wine Paris) and March 

(ProWein) providing a major boost. South Africa and South America are developing well and 

we also continue to clearly focus on our international development, this time with our sights 

squarely set on Australia and New Zealand. 

KNOLFONTEIN, THE VINEYARD BELONGING TO THE DU TOIT FAMILY AT THE FOOT OF THE KASTEELBERG (SWARTLAND). 

THE BEST OF SPRING 2024 

Our selection has been tasted and rated by our tasting panel and is featured on pages 103 to 114. As always, 

we have chosen to present you wines by country, (GERMANY, ITALY...), then by appellation in each 

region, with each winery listed in alphabetical order and in descending order of the scores awarded. This 

issue features our selection of Sancerre, Crémants d’Alsace, South African wines from Swartland, wines 

imported into the German market, a very eclectic line-up from Piedmont, and a delicious introduction to 

South American sparkling wines to round it all off! 

THE TASTING PANEL: 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD 

FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT - OLIVIER DELORME – GONZALO FERNANDEZ - MATTHIEU GAILLARD – GERALDINE SPENCER - JAMES TURNBULL 


FRANCE - CRÉMANT D’ALSACE 


FRANCE 

France’s most northerly sparkling wine 

producer area alongside Champagne, 

Crémant d’Alsace is increasingly 

attracting interest. A share of its 

thoughtfully crafted, highly aromatic 

wines undergoes lengthy maturation, 

lending them complexity. 

CRÉMANT D’ALSACE 

OSTERTAG HURLIMANN 91/100 

D BRUT PRESTIGE : Brilliant yellow-gold. 

Promising nose where white fruits mesh with 

fern, sliced bread and a dash of pineapple. The 

palate is nicely delineated and supported by 

robust freshness. This is a wine for pleasure 

showing lovely clean aromatics, notes of spices 

and ginger and vinosity. 

https://www.ostertag-hurlimann.fr/ Price: € 10.20 

Ostertag Hurlimann +33 3 88 85 52 70 

BESTHEIM 90/100 

CR D BRUT PREMIUM : Brilliant light gold. 

Pleasant nose of white fruits enhanced by a 

faint saline, mineral touch. The attack is very 

appetising, the palate is very silky, crunchy and 

fruity. The finish is persistent and shows more 

of the same, subtle saltiness. 

http://www.bestheim.com Price: € 9.00 

Bestheim +33 3 89 49 09 29 

CATTIN SAUVAGE 90/100 

ORG D BRUT BIO VEGAN : Crystalline light 

yellow-gold with fine bubbles. Elegant nose 

delivering a blend of yellow plum and springlike 

perfumes. The palate is very delicate and 

ethereal with intense flavours supported by 

great freshness. A very enjoyable wine drinking 

well with blinis and taramasalata. 

http://www.cattin.fr Price: € 11.00 

Maison Cattin +33 3 89 49 30 21 

KUEHN 90/100 

D EXTRA BRUT 1675 : Beautiful light gold. 

The nose is very intense and accented by a blend 

of fruit and pastry aromas. The palate is racy and 

silky and also shows great aromatic intensity. 

This is a complex, food-friendly wine pairing 

with poultry. 

http://www.geiler.fr Price: € 17.50 

Cave Vinicole Jean Geiler - Ingersheim +33 3 89 27 90 27 

DOMAINE AIMÉ STENTZ 89/100 

ORG D BRUT CUVÉE PRESTIGE 

http://www.vins-stentz.fr 

Domaine Aimé Stentz +33 3 89 80 63 77 

WILLY GISSELBRECHT 89/100 

D BRUT PRESTIGE 

http://www.vins-gisselbrecht.com Price: € 9.00 

Gisselbrecht Willy Alsace +33 3 88 92 41 02 

OSTERTAG HURLIMANN 89/100 

D BRUT ROSÉ 

https://www.ostertag-hurlimann.fr/ Price: € 10.20 

Ostertag Hurlimann +33 3 88 85 52 70 

LES COMTES DE RIBEAUVILLÉ 89/100 

D BRUT 

http://www.vins-ribeauville.com Price: € 11.20 

Cave de Ribeauvillé +33 3 89 73 61 80 

DOMAINE AIMÉ STENTZ 88/100 

ORG D BRUT ROSÉ CUVÉE PRESTIGE 

http://www.vins-stentz.fr 

Domaine Aimé Stentz +33 3 89 80 63 77 

JEAN GEILER 88/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS LGE204 



BRUCKER 88/100 

HVE D BRUT 2019 

https://www.vigneron-independant.com/domaine-brucker Price: € 8.00 

Domaine Viticole Brucker +33 3 89 76 73 54 

DOMAINE JOSEPH FREUDENREICH & FILS 88/100 

CR D BRUT 2020 

https://www.joseph-freudenreich.fr/ Price: € 8.40 

Domaine Joseph Freudenreich & Fils +33 3 89 41 36 87 

DOMAINE KLEIN BRAND 88/100 

CONV D BRUT BLANC 2020 

https://www.klein-brand.fr/fr/ Price: € 9.30 

Domaine Klein Brand +33 3 89 47 00 08 

MAISON ZOELLER 88/100 

ORG D BRUT 

http://www.vins-zoeller.fr Price: € 9.50 

Maison Zoeller +33 3 88 48 88 59 

THE GRAND CRU FRANKSTEIN OWNED BY MAISON RUHLMANN-SCHUTZ IN DAMBACH LA VILLE. 

SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

103

FRANCE - CRÉMANT D’ALSACE 


ALSACE IS BRIMMING WITH CHARM, LIKE THE VILLAGE OF GUEBERSCHWIHR, SOUTH OF COLMAR. 

WILLY GISSELBRECHT 88/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS 

http://www.vins-gisselbrecht.com Price: € 9.50 

Gisselbrecht Willy Alsace +33 3 88 92 41 02 

DOMAINE CLAUDE ET CHRISTOPHE BLÉGER 88/100 

ORG D BRUT COEUR DE CRU 2018 

http://www.bleger.fr Price: € 11.40 

Domaine Claude et Christophe Bléger +33 3 88 92 32 56 

RUHLMANN SCHUTZ 88/100 

ORG D BRUT BIO - JEAN CHARLES 

http://www.ruhlmann-schutz.fr Price: € 12.00 

Ruhlmann Schutz +33 3 88 92 41 86 

CATTIN FRÈRES 88/100 

D BRUT ROSÉ 


Maison Cattin +33 3 89 49 30 21 

CLÉMENT ET MATTHIEU WECK 88/100 

CR D BRUT NATURE 

https://www.weck.alsace/ Price: € 12.00 

Weck Clément et Fils +33 3 89 49 31 89 

CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ 88/100 

ORG D BRUT BIO 



E.TRABER 88/100 




VIEIL ARMAND 87/100 

D BRUT BIENVENUE 

http://www.cavevieilarmand.com Price: € 6.40 

Cave du Vieil Armand +33 3 89 76 73 75 

DOMAINE JOSEPH FREUDENREICH & FILS 87/100 

CR D BRUT 

https://www.joseph-freudenreich.fr/ Price: € 8.50 

Domaine Joseph Freudenreich & Fils +33 3 89 41 36 87 

DOMAINE YVES AMBERG 87/100 

ORG D BRUT 2020 

http://www.domaine-amberg.com Price: € 8.90 

Domaine Yves Amberg +33 3 88 85 51 28 

HUBER & BLÉGER 87/100 

D BRUT 

http://www.huber-bleger.fr Price: € 9.20 

Huber & Bléger +33 3 89 73 01 12 

VIEIL ARMAND 87/100 


http://www.cavevieilarmand.com Price: € 9.90 

Cave du Vieil Armand +33 3 89 76 73 75 

KUEHN 87/100 

ORG D BRUT BIOLOGIQUE 



CATTIN FRÈRES 87/100 

CR D BRUT 


Maison Cattin +33 3 89 49 30 21 

DOMAINE MARCEL FREYBURGER 87/100 

CONV D EXTRA BRUT - ELÉGANCE 2019 

https://www.freyburger.fr/fr/ Price: € 13.50 

Domaine Marcel Freyburger +33 3 89 78 25 72 

104 SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

FRANCE - SANCERRE 


FRANCE 

Prized by both French and overseas 

consumers, Sancerre is a jewel in 

the Loire’s crown. Although a single 

appellation, it is home to myriad 

vineyard sites and therefore offers an 

extensive array of styles. But don’t trust 

us, see for yourself! 

LOIRE VALLEY 

SANCERRE 

DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 94/100 

D LA CÔTE DE BUÉ 2019: Light yellow-gold. 

Smoky minerality, citrus, ripe white fruit and 

flower honey aromas emerge on the nose. The 

palate is exotic with a fleshy touch. Lushness, 

roundness and freshness are all underpinned 

by noble aromatics in this complex, appetising 

Sancerre. 

http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 29.00 

Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20 

DOMAINE PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT 94/100 

CR D LES GODONS 2022: Attractive, 

brilliant light gold. Very expressive, profound 

nose offering up a blend of white fruits and a 

mineral touch. The palate is beautifully textured 

with more of the same, very effective aromatics, 

ending with a persistent mineral and saline 

finish. 

http://www.philipperaimbault.fr Price: € 14.60 

Philippe Raimbault +33 2 48 79 29 54 

GITTON PÈRE & FILS 94/100 

D VIGNE DU LARREY - MONOPOLE 2021: 

Brilliant yellow-gold. Very delicate nose fusing 

mineral, honeyed and dried fruit notes. The 

same complexity and finesse carry through to 

the palate which also displays length. This is a 

wine for shellfish. 

http://www.gitton.fr Price: € 45.00 

Gitton Père & Fils +33 2 48 54 38 84 

MICHEL VATTAN 94/100 

D LES L-O 2021: Pale yellow-gold. Racy nose 

delivering acacia, honeysuckle and ripe fruit 

aromas with a mineral touch. The palate is tense 

and unfurls an intense, precise array of lime and 

gooseberry aromatics. The finish lingers on and 

on and the overall experience is mind-blowing. 

http://www.michel-vattan.com Price: € 19.50 

Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98 

DOMAINE ROGER ET DIDIER RAIMBAULT 93/100 

CR D VIEILLES VIGNES 2020: Fairly deep 

red with ruby-brown tints. Fresh cherries and 

wild strawberries adorn the nose with a floral 

edge of peony. The palate is harmonious, elegant 

and juicy with fresh fruit lending structure. A 

high-end 2020 with a moreish finish. 

http://www.raimbault-sancerre.com Price: € 23.00 

Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault +33 2 48 79 32 87 


CR D LE CÔTELIN 2020: Pale yellow-gold. 

The nose is suffused with fine vanilla and 

flowers (linden) coupled with notes of citrus and 

bush peach with a resin-like note. The palate is 

harmonious and mouth-coating with its dense 

fruit aromatics energising the whole. The oak 

influence is subtle and elegant in this majestic 

Sancerre. 



FAMILLE NATTER 93/100 

HVE D LES CHEVAUX DE BOIS 2020: 

Brilliant yellow-gold. Elegant nose offering 

up citrus, white fruits, hay and heady flowers. 

Mouth-coating, fleshy palate with a smooth 

mouthfeel and a delicate, complex line-up of 

fruits. A concentrated, generous, rare Sancerre 

pairing with porcini risotto. 

http://www.henrynatter.fr 

Domaine Henri Natter +33 2 48 69 58 85 


D M-K 2022: Brilliant straw-gold. Complex 

nose offering up citrus fruits, herbal tones 

of algae and moss and stony undertones. 

The palate is smooth and lively with intense, 

young flavours that lean towards fruit. This is 

a superlative, streamlined Sancerre displaying 

superb precision. 


Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98 


D VINTAGE 2020: Deep red tinged with 

dark ruby. Crisp cherries and blueberries are 

underscored by a dash of sweet spices on the 

nose. The palate is defined by its sappy fullness, 

its aromatic density and its subtly elegant oak 

influence. Superb. 

http://www.michel-vattan.com Price: €18.50 

Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98 

DOMAINE DANIEL REVERDY ET FILS 92/100 

D MILLÉSIME 2022: Pale yellow colour. 

Heady nose, with aromas of wild flowers, pink 

grapefruit and white peach. Gourmet, easydrinking 

on the palate, with mellow, flavoursome 

acidity stretching to infinity. The fragrances are 

invigorating. An invitation to travel. 

http://www.daniel-reverdy-sancerre.com Price: € 10.00 

Domaine Daniel Reverdy et Fils +33 2 48 79 33 29 


D CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTE 2022: 

Pale yellow with green tints. Stony minerality on 

the nose opens up to pomelo, fresh flowers and 

aromatic plant aromas. The palate is smooth, 

balanced and lush with a velvet-like feel nicely 

offset by a crisp finish and delicate sourness. 




D CUVÉE LA GRANDE DIMIÈRE 2018: Light 

red with ruby-brown highlights. Crisp nose 

suffused with jammy red and black berries and 

a touch of menthol spice. The palate is mouthfilling 

and fleshy with nicely concentrated fruit 

aromatics and silky tannin presence. This is a 

clean, balanced wine with a lingering finish. 




D GRAND CHEMARIN 2019: Pale gold. 

The nose shows a mix of citrus fruits, stony 

minerality, infused flowers and mushrooms. The 

palate is energetic with well-judged lushness 

that meshes with great acidity. Saline characters 

are tinged with fine sourness on the finish. This 

is a very distinctive Sancerre that truly stands 

out. 




CR D VINTAGE 2020: Lovely vibrant rubyred. 

Very delicate nose showing ripe red berry 

fruit tones. The palate combines freshness, 

crispness and expressive flavours. This is a truly 

top-flight Sancerre with chiselled, persistent 

fruit. 



L’ECLAT 92/100 

D CUVÉE SILEX 2022: Pale gold with light 

green tints. Nicely ripe nose combining citrus 

fruits and white flowers with touches of white 

fruits and a mineral edge. Substantial freshness 

on the palate where the freshness of the grapes 

and terroir aromas create a feeling of harmony. 

Drink, of course, with Chavignol goat’s cheese. 

http://pierreriffault.com/ Price: € 14.00 

Pierre Riffault +33 2 48 79 31 03 


105



THE SHOP BOUGHT IN THE VILLAGE OF SANCERRE OFFERS A SHOWCASE FOR DOMAINE MOULIN DES VRIÈRES. 

COEUR À PRENDRE 91/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2019: Beautiful, slightly 

mature ruby. The nose offers up a successful 

fusion of fruit and oaky tones that are very 

appetising. The palate replicates the same 

successful aromatics over substantial length 

with a robust structure and ripe tannins. Lovely 

fruity, spicy finish. 

https://www.sancerre-online.com/fr/ Price: € 14.10 

Moulin des Vrillères +33 6 78 95 55 63 


D CUVÉE LA GRANDE DIMIÈRE 2022: Light 

salmon hue. A merry-go-round of fresh fruits – 

red berries, citrus and melon – emerges on the 

nose. The palate is elegant with great aromatic 

finesse and the fruit flavours complementing 

each other perfectly. The finish is juicy and 

revolves around a smooth mouthfeel in this 

successful offering. 




D CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES 2022: Pale 

yellow with green tints. Fresh nose delivering a 

blend of citrus fruits, wild flowers and cut grass. 

The palate beguiles with its freshness, smooth 

mouthfeel and mouth-coating finish. A fleshy, 

oily feel surrounds the gorgeous, fresh fruit 

flavours in this stellar wine. 




D VIEILLES VIGNES 2021: Pale gold. The nose 

combines infused flowers, plants and lemony, 

citrussy aromas. The palate is responsive and 

supported by a lovely acidic backbone that instils 

freshness throughout. The flavours are fine and 

delicate. This is a wine styled for elegance rather 

than opulence. 




CR D VIEILLES VIGNES 2020: Brilliant 

hay-yellow. Expressive nose laden with citrus 

fruits then notes of apricot and a floral edge of 

boxwood. The stellar fruit aromatics, mouthwatering 

acidity and appetising roundness to 

finish coat the palate in this very tactile Sancerre. 




CR D VIEILLES VIGNES 2019: Beautiful 

light gold with green tints. Pleasant fruity nose 

suffused with crisp lemony tones and mineral 

undercurrents. Beautiful attack on the palate 

which is very rich and intense with energetic 

ripe citrus flavours. This is a Sancerre for 

gourmet foods. 




D LES ROMAINS 2022: Beautiful bright 

light gold. Very rich nose with a honeyed tone. 

The palate shows pleasant intensity right from 

the start, followed by lovely fullness and ripe 

aromatics carried over substantial length by 

freshness. A food-friendly wine. 




D O-P 2022: Vibrant light straw-gold. Fine 

nose combining citrus fruits, blackcurrant 

bud and a delicate mineral note. The palate 

is tense and invigorating with flavours that 

show exemplary precision. Lemony mid-palate 

displaying great intensity. A stellar wine with all 

the essentials and nothing but. 


Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98 


D VINTAGE 2022: Pale salmon with orangey 

highlights. Alluring nose where red berry fruits 

and floral aromatics intertwine. The palate is 

balanced and displays clear, persistent flavours 

with fine spices driving the mid-palate. This is 

a genuine, streamlined rosé for quaffing with 

other enthusiasts. 


Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98 




DOMAINE DU CARROIR PERRIN 90/100 

D MILLÉSIME 2022: Brilliant light yellow 

with pale green tints. Beautiful nose of citrus 

and white fruits with floral and menthol 

touches. Clean, fruit-forward attack on the 

palate, echoing the nose. Substantial refreshing 

freshness on the finish. Drink with goat’s 

cheeses. 

http://pierreriffault.com/ Price: € 11.00 

Pierre Riffault +33 2 48 79 31 03 


D CUVÉE GENÈSE 2022: Pale yellow with 

green tints. Nose of fresh pomelo and white 

peaches with a whiff of flowers. This is a very 

pure Sancerre with a palate that is delightfully 

fresh, generous and driven by gorgeous tangy 

flavours. Minerality and a savoury feel make 

great partners on the finish. 



DOMAINE LA BARBOTAINE 90/100 

D MILLÉSIME 2023: Pale lemon-yellow 

colour. Fragrant nose bursting with citrus fruits 

(grapefruit, tangerine) and floral notes. On the 

palate, a rich, dense style that balances freshness 

and fragrance. The fruit is king. Generous, deep 

finish. A racy Sancerre. 

http://www.sancerre-frederic-champault.fr Price: € 9.00 

Domaine la Barbotaine +33 2 48 79 02 32 


CR D APUD SARIACUM 2022: Appealing 

pale pink. Elegant and relatively subdued nose 

showing a gunflint note. The palate is dense and 

fleshy with generous fruit flavours meshing with 

a salty edge that adds lots of structure in this 

gastronomic rosé. 




CR D APUD SARIACUM 2022: Beautiful 

bright, light gold. Endearing fruity nose 

punctuated by floral tones. The palate is very 

fresh, light and lively. This is a very accessible 

wine that works equally well as an aperitif or 

with grilled fish. 




CR D VINTAGE 2022: Clear pale yellow. 

Ripe grape, white fruits and subtle mineral 

tones adorn the nose. The attack on the palate 

is appealing, leading into pronounced dry 

characters and aromas melding fruit and 

gunflint. Very pure in style. 




D VISHNIA 2020: Appealing light red. Nose 

of ripe red berry fruits with a jammy tone. 

The palate is nicely soft right from the attack. 

The delicate fruit flavours are clean, ripe and 

persistent. This is a generous rosé that works 

best with food. 



HENRY NATTER 90/100 

HVE D MILLÉSIME 2020: Bright lemonyellow. 

Citrussy nose with a floral contribution, 

cut grass note and chalky touch. Great fruit 

density on the palate in a dynamic, fresh style. 

An elegant, sleek Sancerre that makes your 

mouth water. An excellent companion for the 

aperitif. 

http://www.henrynatter.fr 



D MILLÉSIME 2022: Beautiful ruby colour. 

Crisp, clean nose bursting with red berries. 

Silky, fresh and delicious mouthfeel. The finish 

adds reassuring substance and freshness. Try it 

with coq au vin. 

http://www.henrynatter.fr Price: € 15.00 



D MILLÉSIME 2022: Beautiful golden yellow 

colour. Intense nose of fresh fruit with accents 

of lemon and grapefruit. Tender, rich and wellbalanced 

in the mouth. Intensely fruity. Open at 

the table with grilled shellfish. 

http://www.henrynatter.fr Price: € 15.00 


MOULIN DES VRILLÈRES 90/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2021: Very pure, beautiful 

gold. Intense, appetising nose accented by ripe 

apple and tropical fruits. Gorgeous weight on 

the palate with fleshy, tangy, persistent flavours. 

This is a top-flight Sancerre. 



MOULIN DES VRILLÈRES 90/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2020: Beautiful ruby. 

Incredible depth on the nose and remarkable 

quality fruit. The palate shows more of the 

same with a very clean attack and ripe red fruit 

aromas that take centre stage right through to 

the finish. This is the ultimate wine for pleasure. 



PERLE BLANCHE 90/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2022: Beautiful clear light 

gold. Elegant nose showing mineral tones 

coupled with a dash of white fruit. The palate 

is gratifying and fresh and develops precise 

aromas where floral tones mesh with almond 

and ripe white fruits. Truly lovely. 



VINEYARDS BELONGING TO DOMAINE PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT IN SURY-EN-VAUX. 


107

GERMANY - IMPORTED WINES 


GERMANY 

Our focus in this issue has turned 

to German wine companies whose 

dynamic mindset is illustrated in their 

sourcing skills. Buying wines from 

around the world for their domestic 

market, they offer a round-the-world 

tour of the wine arena, without leaving 

the country! 

AUSTRALIA (ALL REGIONS) 

SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA 

BROADLEAF 88/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2023 

https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 3.99 

Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24 

VALLE CENT RAL 

VALLE CENTRAL 


D MERLOT 2023 




D SHIRAZ - CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 




D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 



GEORGIA (ALL REGIONS) 

WINE OF GEORGIA 

PLW PAPALOVES WINE 93/100 

CR D TAOBA SAPERAVI 2021: Bright ruby 

colour with purple reflections. Discreet but 

promising nose combining black fruit, liquorice, 

fine spices and a mineral accent. Harmonious, 

silky and concentrated mouthfeel, with pure, 

delicious young aromas that linger for a long 

time. A fine wine. 

https://www.bedoba.wine/ Price: € 14.99 

PLW Papaloves Wine GmbH +49 211 540 80 685 


CR D BEDOBA - ORANGE 2021: Bright gold 

colour with touches of orange. Seductive nose 

revealing yellow fruit, tangerine zest, honey 

and ivy. Less expansive but balanced and taut in 

the mouth, with minerality, spice and a hint of 

balsamic. Simple wine steeped in tradition. 




CR D BEDOBA SAPERAVI 2021: Deep garnetred 

colour. On the nose, a hint of wood comes 

through, with spices and fruit undertones. More 

charm in the mouth, where the fruit is more 

forthcoming in a virile, lively whole that still 

needs time to reveal its depth. For cellaring. 



KAKHETI 


D BEDOBA SAPERAVI 2020: Deep garnet, 

purple rim. Complex bouquet of red fruit, 

cocoa and spice, with smoky and toasted 

notes. Slimline, rich and ample on the palate 

with strong, juicy flavours and grainy tannin 

underneath. Full of vim, a superb wine. 



CAMPANIA 

CAMPANIA I.G.T. 

IL BUFALO ROSA 86/100 

D 2022 

https://www.enovative.de/en/ Price: € 9.99 

Enovative GmbH +49 711 490 52 270 

PUGLIA 

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA D.O.C. 

RUBINAIA 87/100 

D 2022 

http://www.andreasoster.com Price: € 4.99 

Andreas Oster Weinkellerei +49 2671 60050 

SOUTH ISLAND 

MARLBOROUGH 

AOTEAROA 88/100 

D PINOT NOIR 2022 



WESTERN CAPE 

WESTERN CAPE 

KUUMBA 90/100 

D PINOTAGE 2022: Deep garnet. Fullblown 

nose showing smoky and spicy notes, 

redcurrants and a touch of strawberries. Fullbodied 

and lively on the palate, with lots of 

unusual, tasty flavour. Already a charmer, a 

perfect match for grilled meats. 

https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: €3.49 


KUUMBA 90/100 

D SHIRAZ 2022: Quite deep red, violet tints. 

Entrancing nose combining red fruit, mixed 

spice, touches of tar and acacia. Lovely smooth, 

ample feel on the palate, with full-blown, pure 

and persistant aromatics. An undemanding 

wine brimming with quality. 



KUUMBA 89/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2022 



KUUMBA 89/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 



CATALUNYA 

CATALUNYA 

TORREHERMOSA 87/100 

D 2021 

https://www.enovative.de/en/ Price: € 6.99 

Enovative GmbH +49 711 490 52 270 


ITALY - BARBERA D’ASTI D.O.C.G. SUPERIORE 


ITALY 

This quarter we take a closer look at 

some splendid pours from Piedmont. 

Be prepared to step off the well-trodden 

path of Barolo and Barbara and venture 

into Langhe, Monferrato, Nizza and 

Roero Arneis territory! 

PIEDMONT 

ALTA LANGA D.O.C.G. 

VINCHIO VAGLIO 90/100 

CR D BRUT ALTA LANGHA 2019: Brilliant, 

very pale colour with silver reflections. 

Pleasant nose combining grapefruit, apple 

and hawthorn. Well-balanced and seductively 

delicate mouthfeel, with intense, subtle aromas 

and a fine, rich effervescence. This wine has a lot 

going for it. 

http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 18.50 

Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03 

ASTI D.O.C.G. 

DEZZANI 91/100 

D BARBERA 2022: Beautiful ruby colour, 

young appearance. Dapper on the palate, 

with hints of red fruit and a delicate woody 

undertone. Full-bodied and intensely aromatic 

with very demonstrative tannins. Italian charm 

at its best. 

http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 9.00 

Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 

ABBAZIA 88/100 

D DOLCE 

http://www.abbazia.com Price: € 4.60 

Abbazia di San Gaudenzio +39 01 41 84 08 08 

BARBARESCO D.O.C.G. 

COLLINA SERRAGRILLI 95/100 

CONV D STARDERI 2020: Medium-deep 

garnet, amber rim. Captivating nose of red berry 

fruit, fine spice, hints of menthol and scrubland. 

Very harmonious, ripe and ample on the palate, 

an authentic, unwavering wine, still immature 

but already remarkable. Well done! 

http://www.serragrilli.it Price: € 31.00 

Collina Serragrilli +39 0173 67 70 10 


CR D 2020: Pale garnet colour with amber 

reflections. Inviting nose combining heather, red 

fruit, hints of coffee and earth. Airy mouthfeel, 

a velvety, rich wine wrapped in harmonious 

traditional oak. Nothing superfluous, a great 

delicacy, bravo! 




D 2021: Light red colour with tile-like tints. 

Highly engaging, fully bloomed nose where 

jammy fruit mingle with hints of precious wood. 

Broad attack on the palate, with a highly fragrant 

evolution displaying the same seductive aromas. 


Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 

BARBERA D’ALBA D.O.C. 


CONV D GRILLAIA 2019: Deep garnet. 

Generous nose of red fruit and subtle toasted, 

mentholated and spicy notes over a wood 

backdrop. Ample and structured palate, already 

delectable despite its still-apparent woody 

structure. Superbly delineated flavours, great 

tannic finesse. 



FONTANFREDDA 90/100 

D RAIMONDA 2021: Deep red, youthful and 

gleaming. Appealing nose of red and black berry 

fruit. Well-crafted palate perfectly combining 

substance, flavour and acidity. A complete, 

accomplished offering to serve alongside red 

meats and grills. 

http://www.fontanafredda.it Price: € 16.00 

Fontanafredda +39 0173 62 61 11 

BARBERA D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 


CR D 50 VIGNE VECCHIE 2021: Deep 

garnet-red colour with less evolved reflections. 

Complex, smoky, mineral nose with red fruit 

undertones. Silky and rich on the palate, 

carried by a well-adjusted freshness. Not yet 

fully developed, but the peak is in sight. A 

magnificent prospect. 



CORDARA 91/100 

CR D NAMASTÃ¨ 2020: Deep garnet-red, 

amber glints. Inviting nose combining red 

fruit, dead leaves, delicate animal and roasted 

notes. Beautifully concentrated and rich on the 

palate, with lively aromas. A sprightly style with 

exemplary persistence. A great quality vintage. 

http://www.cordara.com Price: € 9.00 

Cordara +39 0141 76 21 76 

POGGIO RIDENTE 90/100 

ORG D VALLÌA 2022: Deep ruby colour. 

Intense nose of stone fruit with a discreet woody 

and spicy note. A fleshy, expressive attack on the 

palate, with polished tannins. The aromas carry 

through easily to the fresh, lingering finish. 

http://www.poggioridente.it Price: € 10.00 

Poggio Ridente +39 0141 90 78 08 

VERMOUTH DI TORINO 90/100 

CR D ROSSO 2019: Clear garnet colour with 

amber tints. Generous nose combining red fruit 

and aromatic herbs. Velvety, smooth and rich 

with great elegance combining its lovely herbal 

fragrances with an invigorating bitterness. A 

lovely vermouth. 

https://www.idivini.org/ Price: € 23.50 

Idivini +39 3479 29 93 47 

BARBERA D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 

SUPERIORE 

CORDARA 93/100 

CR D COSTA DEL SOLE 2016: Deep garnetred 

colour, evolution reflections. Captivating 

nose combining red fruit, fine roasted and spicy 

notes, menthol and a touch of dried plants. 

Silky, elegant and rich on the palate, a solid style 

with magnificent aromas. A benchmark wine. 


Cordara +39 0141 76 21 76 

CORDANA 92/100 

CR D KALI 2016: Clear garnet colour, amber 

reflections. Complex nose combining red fruit, 

menthol, aromatic plants and subtle wood. The 

palate is highly fragrant, saline and spicy, with 

a suave frame of grainy tannins and a lingering 

finish that leaves you spellbound. 


Cordara +39 0141 76 21 76 


ORG D SAN SEBASTIANO 2021: Dark red 

colour with youthful glints. A very pleasant, 

complex nose of macerated fruit, spices and 

precious woods. Lovely structure on the palate, 

with ripe, polished tannins and unrestrained 

aromas. A wine only beginning to express itself. 




109

ITALY - BAROLO D.O.C.G. 


A VILLAGE SURROUNDED BY VINEYARDS IN THE BAROLO REGION. 

SOTTO LA LUNA 92/100 

D 2019: Fairly deep red, slight development. 

Intriguing nose revealing chocolate and mineral 

notes with touches of graphite and meat. 

Very velvety on the palate, a wine of delicate 

substance with a lingering, aromatic finish. 

Recommended. 


Idivini +39 3479 29 93 47 


CR D I TRE VESCOVI 2021: Deep garnet-red 

colour. Fairly discreet nose combining red fruit, 

spicy, floral and balsamic notes. On the palate, 

a suave vintage of great tenderness, a superbly 

intense flavour, discreet tannins. A marvel to be 

left to mature. 



CASALI DEL BARONE 90/100 

ORG D 150+1 2021: Youthful ruby red colour. 

On the nose, a fine smoky-grilled woodiness 

with aromas of ripe red fruits. The mouth is 

racy and taut. The silky touch, sweet tannins 

and aromatic length leave an extremely mouthwatering 

finish. A well-rounded, delicate wine. 

http://www.schenkitalia.it/ Price: € 12.00 

Schenk Italia +39 0471 80 33 11 

BAROLO D.O.C.G. 


D 2020: Clear garnet colour with hints of 

amber. Fine racy nose offering heather, mocha, 

and an earthy note alongside red fruit and 

spices. Light on the palate, generous and lively, 

supported by a fine traditional ageing process. A 

superb vintage to lay down. 


Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 


CR D 2019: Light red colour, garnet 

reflections. Woody nose of delicate mocha, 

liquorice, sweet spices and stewed red and black 

fruit. Fleshy, round mouthfeel, elegantly and 

carefully matured. Plenty of tannins. Beautiful 

final tension. Enticing youthful character. 



ARIONE 92/100 

CR D CONTESSA DI CASTIGLIONE 2018: 

Clear amber colour with orange tints. Racy 

nose combining scents of heather, dried fruit 

and roasted notes. Silky, ample, greedy palate 

combining freshness and delicacy, superb depth 

and saline evolution. A fine terroir wine to keep. 

http://www.arione.it Price: € 13.80 

Arione +39 0141 82 31 72 

LA BIOCA 92/100 

D ACULEI 2019: Garnet with amber tints. 

Complex nose revealing red berry fruit, aromatic 

plants, moss and an earthy note. Nervy, ample 

and taut on the palate, nicely concentrated, with 

barrel-ageing still in evidence. A distinguished 

wine that merits our patience. 

http://www.labioca.it Price: € 32.00 

La Biòca +39 0173 61 30 22 

COLLINE NOVARESI D.O.C. 

LA PIEMONTINA 88/100 

CR D VESPOLINA 2020 

https://lapiemontina.com/eng Price: € 21.00 

La Piemontina +39 0163 32 65 44 

GAVI D.O.C.G. O CORTESE DI 

GAVI D.O.C.G. 

LA SCOLCA 91/100 

D GAVI DEI GAVI 2019: Dazzling golden 

yellow colour. Engaging nose of exotic fruit, 

dried herbs with a hint of balsamic. Airy and 

lively on the palate, generously coated with 

luscious flavours. Develops with fine creamy and 

spicy touches. Precise and delicate. 

https://www.lascolca.net Price: € 29.50 

La Scolca +39 0143 68 21 76 

BINÉ 90/100 

CONV D 2022: Pale golden yellow, green 

tints. Pleasant nose of white-flesh and citrus 

fruit, with floral and spicy touches. Lively and 

taut on entry, with acidulous notes on the palate 

and a refreshing bitter note on the finish. A 

delight with grilled fish or seafood. 

https://www.bine.wine/ Price: € 14.50 

Biné +39 01 43 74 32 15 

LA BOLLINA 90/100 

D 2022: Bright pale gold, green tints. 

Captivating nose combining floral, grapefruit 

and tropical-fruit notes. Smooth on the tongue 


ITALY - NIZZA D.O.C.G. 


with very eloquent and clear-cut flavour in an 

ample, vivacious setting. Continues and ends on 

a pronounced floral note. Superb. 

http://www.labollina.it Price: € 9.00 

La Bollina +39 0143 61 984 

LA SCOLCA 90/100 

D GAVI DEI GAVI 2022: Sparkling light 

yellow colour. Fresh fruit on the nose (peach, 

pear, apple) with a floral undertone. Elegant, 

supple and tender mouthfeel, with delicate fruit 

and fine bitters on the finish. A precise, long, 

lingering white. 

https://www.lascolca.net Price: € 21.00 

La Scolca +39 0143 68 21 76 

SAN MATTEO 88/100 

D 2022 

http://www.cantinasanmatteo.it Price: € 13.00 

Azienda Agricola San Matteo di Diotti Massimo +39 

0173 36 36 67 

GHEMME D.O.C.G. 

LA PIEMONTINA 92/100 

CR D 2018: Light ruby colour with tile-red 

tints. Delicate, open nose, combining jammy red 

fruit, delicate notes of moss and undergrowth. 

The palate is seductive with its airy fullness, 

delicate texture coated with fat, and aromatic 

finesse. A superb wine. 

https://lapiemontina.com/eng Price: € 27.00 

La Piemontina +39 0163 32 65 44 

LANGHE D.O.C. 


D NEBBIOLO 2022: Clear garnet-red 

colour. Inviting nose combining red fruit with 

delightful herbal and spicy scents. Juicy and ripe 

mouthfeel, revealing a touch of aromatic herbs. 

Well-structured, lively and full of character, an 

extremely enjoyable wine. 


Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 

CASALI DEL BARONE 91/100 

D NEBBIOLO 2021: Light red colour with 

garnet glints. Delicate toasted woody nose 

backed by cherry, blackcurrant and plum notes. 

Supple on the palate, a well-matured wine 

offering a silky texture, lacy tannins and a bright 

fruity expression. A tantalizing Nebbiolo. 

http://www.schenkitalia.it/ Price: € 15.00 

Schenk Italia +39 0471 80 33 11 


CONV D PINOT NERO 2019: Beautiful 

garnet red color, slightly evolved reflections. 

Nose of candied cherries, touches of white 

pepper. Exquisite and delicious attack in the 

mouth, on the fruit, consistent with the nose. 

A harmoniously balanced wine revealing fine 

bitters on the finish. Fine ensemble. 




D EBBIO 2022: Bright pale ruby. Very 

engaging nose of red fruit with a whiff of pepper 

in the background. Direct and fruit-driven on 

the palate, medium-bodied with soft, melted 

tannin. A very drinkable wine to accompany 

grilled meats. 



VINCHIO - VAGLIO SERRA 90/100 

CR D LA CASINERA BIB 3 L 2022: Bright 

pale gold colour. Pleasant nose revealing yellow 

plums, grapefruit and blackcurrant buds. Lovely, 

light, sapid palate developing floral and spicy 

notes. Evolves beautifully, offering harmony and 

persistence. 



BOSIO 89/100 

D BOSCHI DEI SIGNORI 2022 

http://www.bosiovini.it Price: € 7.50 

Bosio S.r.l. +39 0141 84 71 49 

MONFERRATO D.O.C. 


D NEBBIOLO 2022: Bright garnet-red 

colour, with a few tile-red tints. Engaging nose 

combining red fruit, notes of heather and spices. 

Very elegant on the palate, with a silky feel and 

intense juvenile aromas bathed in harmonious 

freshness. Firm, persistent finish. 


Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 

FAVOR DËL DEMÒNI 90/100 

CR D 2020: Ruby-red colour with tilered 

tints. Pleasant, complex nose, combining 

mineral and spicy tones with hints of leather and 

tobacco. The mouth seduces with its delicacy and 

precision, as well as its substance and aromatic 

precision. A superb cuvÃ©e. 


Idivini +39 3479 29 93 47 

LA BOLLINA 89/100 

D TINETTA 2022 

http://www.labollina.it Price: € 9.00 

La Bollina +39 0143 61 984 

MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 


D 2022: Crystal-clear, with thick mousse. 

Attractive nose of vineyard peaches, tropicalfruit 

notes and honeysuckle. Graceful palate, 

quite sweet, with vivifying acidity boosting its 

fruit. Brimming over with flavour, a delightful 

wine. 


Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 

ABBAZIA 89/100 

D 2022 

http://www.abbazia.com Price: € 4.25 

Abbazia di San Gaudenzio +39 01 41 84 08 08 


CR D VALAMASCA 2022 



NIZZA D.O.C.G. 


CR D LAUDANA 2020: Fairly deep colour, 

reflections leaning towards garnet. Nose of 

smoky wood, delicate toast, spices and bright 

black fruit. Depth and aromatic complexity on 

the palate. The woodiness melts into the spicy, 

fruity texture with fine tannins. A superb wine. 



BERSANO 92/100 

D RISERVA GENERALA 2018: Fairly deep 

red tinged with garnet-ruby. Delicate toasted, 

smoky oakiness melds with jammy red and 

black fruits on the nose along with subtle spice 

presence. The palate is warm yet very energetic, 

with racy tannins and restrained heat. Shows 

definite ageability. 

http://www.bersano.it Price: € 30.50 

Bersano Vini S.p.A. +39 0141 72 02 11 


D 2021: Deep garnet-red colour. Generous 

nose of red fruit, mocha, fine spices and an 

earthy note. Rich, full-bodied on the palate, 

with more discreet aromas and a very elegant 

structure. A lively, flavoursome vintage only 

starting to showcase its potential. 


Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 


111

ITALY - PIEMONTE D.O.C. 


LA PATAREINA 92/100 

CONV D LE REISS 2020: Deep garnet colour 

with some amber reflections. Generous nose 

combining red fruits, dark chocolate and dried 

herbs. The palate is racy, slender and ample 

offering superb intensity, combining grainy 

tannins and welcome freshness. A very fine 

ensemble. 

https://www.lapatareina.it/en/home-english/ Price: € 25.00 

La Patareina +39 3299 32 86 60 

BERSANO 90/100 

D CREMOSINA 2020: Rather deep red, 

ruby-brown reflections. Ripe red and black 

fruit on the nose, with floral notes, sweet spices 

and dried herbs. On the palate, beautifully 

concentrated tannins, coating texture and 

expressive fruit. Devoid of sluggishness. 

http://www.bersano.it Price: € 16.50 

Bersano Vini S.p.A. +39 0141 72 02 11 

PIEMONTE D.O.C. 


D NEBBIOLO BARBERA 2022: Clear garnetred 

colour. Racy nose combining red fruit, 

Morello cherry, heather, and hints of toast and 

spice. Delicious young, pure and intense aromas 

on the palate, expressed in a lively structure 

supported by seductively delicate tannins. 

Superb wine. 


Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 

ENZO BARTOLI 91/100 

D 2022: Bright, quite full pink. Refined, 

engaging nose juxtaposing a mineral aspect 

with rose petal fragrance. Shows great finesse 

and subtlety on the palate, a refreshing, taut 

blend which will work wonders with raw fish. 

http://www.mondodelvino.com Price: € 11.90 

MGM Mondo Del Vino +39 0173 63 63 11 


D BARBERA NEBBIOLO 2022: Beautiful 

deep ruby colour. Rich, expressive nose, with 

black fruits mingling with spices and cocoa. 

Same depth and elegance in the mouth. A young 

wine, with great promise, worth waiting for. 



BINÉ 90/100 

CONV D PRIMO OTTOBRE 2020: Deep 

ruby red, purple tints, very viscous. Compelling 

nose of black and red berry fruit, pepper and 

liquorice. Powerful and silky attack leading into 

a palate full of fresh, sunny flavour, concluding 

with an exquisite finish framed with fresh 

tannin. 

https://www.bine.wine/ Price: € 17.50 

Biné +39 01 43 74 32 15 


CR D COSTE SARACENE BIB 3 L 2022: Light 

garnet-red, amber reflections. Delicate nose of 

red fruit, notes of heather and flowers. Robust 

and rich on the palate, with ample, delicious 

fruit. Structured ensemble with a vegetal 

structure, finishing on a spicy note. A successful 

Piedmont. 



BIOSO 88/100 

D TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA 2021 

http://www.bosiovini.it Price: € 7.00 

Bosio S.r.l. +39 0141 84 71 49 

ROERO ARNEIS D.O.C.G. 

ARIONE 90/100 

CR D NERO ARNEIS 2022: Bright, light 

golden yellow colour. Pleasant nose revealing 

yellow plums, grapefruit and discreet pineapple. 

On the palate, a silky attack, a rich, fleshy wine 

with powerful, precise fragrances. Generous and 

worth discovering. 

http://www.arione.it Price: € 4.68 

Arione +39 0141 82 31 72 


D 2023: Pale golden yellow colour. 

Delightful nose combining yellow fruit, peach 

and dried herbs. Invigorating and generous 

mouthfeel, unashamedly displaying its luscious 

fruity fragrances. A fine, precise and persistent 

wine, best served with grilled fish. 


Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44 

ROERO D.O.C.G. 


CR D FRUSTÉ 2022 



RUCHE DI CASTAGNOLE 

MONFERRATO D.O.C.G. 


ORG D SAN MARZIANO 2022 



VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITÀ 

THE PERFECT SPOT FOR A TASTING WITH BREATH-TAKING VISTAS AT POGGIO RIDENTE. 

ITINERA 90/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE NOIR : Bright, pale 

straw-gold colour. Pleasant nose of white flowers 

and yellow stone fruit. Light on the palate with 

clean, crisp flavours, lively and refreshing, with 

a hint of the exotic (pineapple, peach). A pleasant 

sparkling wine for convivial occasions. 

http://www.mondodelvino.com Price: € 8.99 

MGM Mondo Del Vino +39 0173 63 63 11 


SOUTH AFRICA - SWARTLAND - PIKETBERG 


SOUTH AFRICA 

Situated in the Western Cape, the 

Swartland has been a wine region 

since the mid-20th century. Its most 

widespread grape varieties – Chenin 

and Syrah – produce some extremely 

interesting wines 

WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL 

REGION 

SWARTLAND 

ALLESVERLOREN 93/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Dark 

ruby brick. Tea leaf and tomato leaf on the spicy 

nose. Dark berry on the sour cherry palate with 

a hint of leather and spice on the aftertaste. Dry 

and grainy tannin on the lengthy and full finish. 

Drink through 2030 

https://www.allesverloren.co.za/ Price: R 175 

Allesverloren Wine Estate +27 22 461 2320 

GENTIS 93/100 

D BADLANDS SHIRAZ 2022: Dark purple. 

Bramble and mulberry on the dark chocolate 

and jammy nose. Red cherry and blackberry on 

the full and rich palate. A big wine, made to age. 

Drink through 2030. 

https://www.thorvintners.com/ Price: € 14.00 

Thor Vintners +27 72 238 1703 

RAAR 93/100 

D SKIN CONTACT CHENIN BLANC 2023: 

Yellow straw. Dried fruit nose with apricot and 

quince. Full and rich on the palate with a pithy 

and slightly tart note on the rich aftertaste. 

Clean and crisp on the lengthy finish. Drink 

through 2030. 

http://www.riebeekcellars.com Price: € 9.00 

Riebeek Valley Wines +27 22 448 1213 

GENTIS 92/100 

D THE PHOENIX 2022: Dark ruby purple. 

Mulberry jam and dark berry on the rich nose. 

Full and grippy on the tart palate with a juicy 

and elegant texture on the rhubarb finish. Made 

to age. Drink through 2030. 



LEEUWENKUIL 92/100 

CR D RESERVE RED 2019: Ruby brick. 

Smoky and leathery on the red berry nose. 

Palate is smoky and leathery with a tartness 

and cranberry fruit note on the aftertaste. 

Developed, but still in its youth. Drink through 

2029. 

https://www.leeuwenkuilfv.co.za/ Price: € 7.00 

Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards +27 84 510 1265 


CR D RESERVE WHITE 2022: Yellow straw. 

Stone fruit and marmalade and pineapple on 

the rich nose. Full and creamy on the palate 

with some vanilla from gentle oak. Layered and 

creamy on the lengthy aftertaste. Drink through 

2030. 



KASTEELBERG 91/100 

D SYRAH 2023: Ruby garnet. Spicy and 

leathery nose with red berry notes. Grippy and 

full on the palate with a leathery note on the 

spicy finish. Complex and rich. Made to age. 

Drink through 2029. 



KNOLFONTEIN 91/100 

D CHENIN BLANC 2022: Yellow straw. Ripe 

nose with stone fruit and dried apricot. Yellow 

fruit and stone fruit on the rich palate with a hint 

of cantelope on the tangy aftertaste. Creamy and 

textured. Drink through 2029. 

http://www.knolfonteinwines.co.za Price: R 120 

Knolfontein Wines +27 71 612 1432 


D CINSAUT 2021: Light garnet. Cinnamon 

and spice on the leathery nose. Sour cherry and 

cranberry on the palate with a light sherbet note 

on the aftertaste. Layered and interesting. Drink 

through 2028. 



RAAR 90/100 

D SHIRAZ CARBONIC MACERATION 2023: 

Purple garnet. Violets and red berry fruit on the 

perfumed nose. Very smooth and elegant on the 

palate with a grippy and slightly leathery note on 

the lengthy finish. Drink through 2028. 




D SHIRAZ 2021 




D ROSÉ 2023 



EMILE GENTIS IN HIS SWARTLAND VINEYARDS.. 

NATIVO 89/100 

ORG D TEMPRANILLO DESTEMMED 2023 

http://www.nativo.co.za Price: € 18.00 

Hughes Family Wines +27 83 270 2457 

ORG DE RAC 88/100 

ORG D SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

MERLOT 2023 

http://www.orgderac.co.za/ Price: € 7.00 

Org de Rac +27 22 913 2397 

WIND SONG 88/100 

D CAPE BLEND 2022 



NATIVO 86/100 

ORG D TEMPRANILLO WHOLE BUNCH 

2023 

http://www.nativo.co.za Price: € 18.00 

Hughes Family Wines +27 83 270 2457 

SWARTLAND - PIKETBERG 


ORG D LA VERNE CAP CLASSIQUE 2020 


Org de Rac +27 22 913 2397 


ORG D LA VERNE CAP CLASSIQUE 2022 


Org de Rac +27 22 913 2397 


113

SOUTH AMERICA - SPARKLING WINES 


SOUTH AMERICA 

Here’s a topic that has probably never 

been written about – sparkling wines 

from South America. Although they 

include some interesting offerings, 

particularly in Argentina, they remain 

under-the-radar. But whether they 

come from Argentina, Uruguay or even 

Ecuador, they are certainly well worth 

exploring. 

ARGENTINA 

MENDOZA 

MENDOZA 

DOMAINE BOUSQUET 94/100 

ORG D MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE BRUT 

: Intense yellow colour with golden reflections, 

fine and slow releasing bubbles. The nose 

expresses ageing characteristics with notes 

of brioche, toast and white fruit. The palate is 

engaging and consistently expressive, guided by 

an elegant structure. 

https://domainebousquet.com/ Price: € 22.22 

Domaine Bousquet +54 2622 480 000 

DOMAINE BOUSQUET 84/100 

ORG D BRUT 

https://domainebousquet.com/ Price: € 11.11 

Domaine Bousquet +54 2622 480 000 

MENDOZA, MAIPÚ 

COQUIMBITO 

SAN FELIPE 85/100 

D EXTRA BRUT 2023 

https://bodegalarural.com.ar/home/ Price: € 8.50 

Bodega La Rural +54 (0261) 497 2013 

MENDOZA, TUPUNGATO 

GUALTALLARY 

RUTINI COLECCION 94/100 

D BRUT NATURE 2021: Bright golden yellow 

in colour, with a lively stream of fine bubbles. 

The nose shows its ageing with aromas of 

pastries, dried fruit and a floral touch. Ample 

on the palate with a balanced acidity. Constantly 

expresses elegance through the finish. 



CRUZAT 93/100 

CR D NATURE 2022: Pale yellow colour 

with steely hints. The nose is expressive and 

engaging, with aromas of dried peach, citrus 

and toast. The palate is elegant, with a fine 

structure, creamy and persistent bubbles. 

Aromas of ageing accompany the long finish. 

http://www.bodegacruzat.com Price: € 17.70 

Bodega Cruzat +54 261 562 03 90 

RUTINI COLECCION 93/100 

D EXTRA BRUT 2021: Intense, bright yellow 

colour, with fine, constant bubbles. An elegant 

nose, with aromas of flowers, citrus peel and 

apricots. The foam on the palate is creamy and 

fresh at the same time. It has a great overall 

balance with an aromatic and refined finish. 



91/100 

ORG D VINTAGE 2022: Bright, lively yellow 

colour. Ripe fruit aromas on the nose with a 

complex ageing profile. The palate reaffirms the 

style with notes of yeast, orange blossom water 

and dried fruits. The sweetness is balanced by a 

fresh acidity, giving a long finish. 

http://www.bodegacruzat.com Price: € 17.00 

Bodega Cruzat +54 261 562 03 90 

TRUMPETER 90/100 

D EXTRA BRUT 2022: Bright pale yellow 

in colour with fine, constant bubbles. The nose 

is both complex and fruity, with subtle floral 

notes and hints of white fruit. The foam on the 

palate is creamy and balanced by its acidity. A 

persistent and fruity finish. 



RUTINI ENCUENTRO 89/100 

D BRUT NATURE 2022 



TRUMPETER 88/100 

D EXTRA BRUT ROSE 2022 



SAN JOSÉ 

PHILIPPE CARAGUEL 95/100 

D GRAND CUVÉE EXTRA BRUT 2021: Pale 

yellow in colour. The nose shows time on the lees 

with aromas of brioche, orange blossom water 

and white fruit. Creamy on the palate, guided 

by a fresh and balanced acidity. The finish is 

gripping, with a very subtle hint of quince. 

Price: € 22.00 

Philippe Caraguel 

TUPUNGATO 

SAUVAGE BLANC 86/100 

CONV D SAUVIGNON BLANC BRUT 

NATURE 2023 

http://donapaula.com/ Price: € 25.00 

Doña Paula +54 261 429 0741 

EQUATOR (ALL REGIONS) 

EQUATOR 

DOS HEMISFERIO DESTINO 91/100 

D METODO TRADICIONAL EXTRA BRUT 

2020: Intense golden yellow colour, with 

fine persistent bubbles. The nose is complex, 

expressing ageing and ripe fruit. The palate 

confirms the style with notes of orange blossom 

water, yeast and citrus peel. Long and fresh 

finish thanks to its lively acidity. 

Price: € 20.00 

Dos Hemisferios +593 97 988 2116 

URUGUAY 

URUGUAY ALL REGION 

VIÑA EDÉN 93/100 

D MÉTHODE CHAMPENOISE : Pale yellow 

with green hints. Very fine and persistent 

bubbles. On the nose it expresses aromas of 

ageing. Notes of pears, yeast and a very fine 

floral touch. Unctuous and elegant on the palate, 

guided by a fresh acidity. The finish is persistent. 

Price: € 11.11 

viña edén +598 441 03 841 


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