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NEWS HOSPICES DE BEAUNE 2023: MARGINAL DECREASE ON 2022 Despite a challenging environment, the Hospices de Beaune wine auction posted the second best results ever, reaching 23 million euros on Sunday 19 November 2023. The figure was just marginally down on the incredible achievement of 2022, though the average cask price remained above €30,000. Whilst the decrease (approximately 20%) was fairly significant per se, it actually hides the bigger picture. The 2022 sale, which totalled 29 million euros, smashed all previous records and equalling it this year was therefore a pretty tall order, particularly because the volume of wine up for auction was lower, with 753 casks auctioned versus 817 in 2022. The average cask price plummeted this year to €30,500 compared with €35,500 last year. What the 2023 auction did show was a more balanced phase between supply and demand for Burgundy wine. Following a second generous crop, the time seems to have come for supply pressures to subside, and perhaps prices to drop. LESS DEMAND FOR THE PRESIDENTS’ CASK The highly popular presidents’ cask – whose proceeds are donated to charity, unlike the other casks whose profits are donated to the hospital in Beaune – was bought for €350,000 by Olivier Poelaert, the owner of Château de Couches and the Mazenay winery in the low-profile Côtes du Couchois area. The amount paid was significantly less than the record €810,000 reached last year by the charity cask, a price that will likely be hard to beat – the wine was a blend of Corton paying homage to Burgundy negociant Louis- Fabrice Latour. https://domaine.hospices-de-beaune.com/ © Titouan Rimbault 2023 BURGUNDY: ALL-SET FOR BOTH GOOD VOLUME AND QUALITY Burgundy had not experienced two consecutive years of above-average volumes for a few years. Coming on the back of the 2022 harvest, the 2023 crop has undeniably lifted spirits of winegrowers and negociants alike – wineries are once again (almost) full, and in both instances, the wine is good quality. This is the positive flipside of the vintage. Despite the unstable weather conditions over the summer, the final outcome is impressive. The Chardonnay, Aligoté and Sauvignon fruit ripened fully in perfect health, yet stayed fresh enough to live up to the reputation of white Burgundy. And once again, Pinot noir has proven to be the king of grapes in the region. After thorough sorting in many cases, made all the easier by the higher yields, stellar juice entered the tanks, showing substantial aromatics. Consequently, the wines are expressive and fruity with excellent aromatic profiles, both for the whites and the reds. The vintage offers something for everyone such is the variety of styles promoted by the choice of harvest dates. The thought of exploring the 2023 vintage is already something to look forward to! https://www.vins-bourgogne.fr/ AN AMAZING 2023 CROP, WHICH WAS BOTH HEALTHY AND ABUNDANT 8 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
NEWS FRAPIN 1990: TOTAL GRATIFICATION The 1990 vintage is a benchmark both for wines and brandies. This elegant, supple, polished and appetising Cognac in particular stems from a complex fusion of a unique terroir, time-honoured artistry and a passion for excellence. Frapin’s signature style is expressed in its voluptuously rich aromatics and endless length on the palate. It boasts unique character instilled by the climatic variations of that particular year in this hillside vineyard of Chez Piet. Obviously, it was harvested, distilled on the lees and matured at the estate. The 1990 vintage encapsulates the subtle site-expressiveness of the Grande Champagne vineyards. Don’t forget to leave it in the glass for a while, it will benefit from the time. And to be honest, the opportunity to turn the clocks back by 30 years at this price is a snip. Recommended retail price: €195 including VAT. https://www.cognac-frapin.com/ BORDEAUX FEELS THE HEAT Since 2022, there has been a glaring imbalance between production and sluggish sales of Bordeaux, and that disconnect has become structural. The industry is working to find emergency solutions for farms in the most challenging situations, and structural measures to ensure a sustainable future. Here’s a review of the situation. Since 2019, there have been countless disappointments: China’s wine imports have shrunk, Hong Kong has been in a political crisis, Trump imposed taxes in the United States, there have been uncertainties surrounding Brexit, an unprecedented global pandemic, war in Ukraine, inflation… These events have had a profound impact on global trade, and severely affected Bordeaux. In the vineyards, a series of weather events – frost, hail and drought – have undermined crop potential from one vintage to the next, making it impossible to have a long-term vision and jeopardising wineries’ profitability. And last but not least, the drop in consumption, especially for red wines, has exacerbated the situation. The industry has taken structural measures – subsidised permanent vine-pulls to reduce volumes over the long term – and drastic short-term measures (distillation). It has also continued with its sustainability agenda, through a commitment to CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility), increased environmental certifications, development of organic wines and carbon reduction to name a few. Concurrently with this, the industry has been striving to reinvent itself and better align its range of wines with current consumer demand, by diversifying in terms of colour (whites, Crémant), occasions and styles, combining the classic pours with more offbeat offerings (new varietals). In an era of uncertainty, one thing is for sure – we certainly haven’t heard the last of Bordeaux. Take a look for yourself in our comprehensive feature report on page 10. WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 9
Page 1 and 2: CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER: AUTHENTICITY AN
Page 3 and 4: CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 23 54 69
Page 5 and 6: EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
Page 7: Have you ever savored the exquisite
Page 11 and 12: BORDEAUX MARKETS LEFT TO RIGHT, BRO
Page 13 and 14: ALL THE VINEYARDS BELONGING TO BORD
Page 15 and 16: IN EUROPE, BORDEAUX VINEAM ACHIEVES
Page 17 and 18: 4 covers: France, Spain, Italy, Sou
Page 19 and 20: GÉRALDINE LEFEBVRE-LOPEZ, THE OWNE
Page 21 and 22: BORDEAUX MARKETS The Lopez family h
Page 23 and 24: THE RESPECTABLE VALUES OF PREMIUM C
Page 25 and 26: and the quality of the wine they pr
Page 27 and 28: CHAMPAGNE TREND Europe or more matu
Page 29 and 30: CHAMPAGNE TREND tial and expressive
Page 31 and 32: TASTING TASTING RARE RARE BOTTLE BO
Page 33 and 34: WINEMAKER DAVID CHABOCHE AND MANAGI
Page 35 and 36: ITALY TERROIR THE RIVE DI ROLLE, BE
Page 37 and 38: NAZARENO AND STEFANO POLA, THE FATH
Page 39 and 40: ITALY TERROIR - 20,600 bottles a ye
Page 41 and 42: ITALY TERROIR The Prosecco displays
Page 43 and 44: FOUR GENERATIONS OF THE BRESSAN FAM
Page 45 and 46: SOUTH AFRICA GRAPE FAIRVIEW HARVEST
Page 47 and 48: SOUTH AFRICA GRAPE Anthony De Jager
Page 49 and 50: WINEMAKER KLAAS STOFFBERG AND ASSIS
Page 51 and 52: SOUTH AFRICA GRAPE in 2016, the far
Page 53 and 54: SOUTH AFRICA GRAPE new era for Saro
Page 55 and 56: GREECE DISCOVERY THE VINEYARDS OF Z
Page 57 and 58: THE FAMOUS P.D.O. NAOUSSA WINE IS M
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GREECE DISCOVERY historic winery’
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ANTONIS PAPANTONIS 1937 and origina
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GREECE DISCOVERY the most tradition
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ITALY FOCUS EDOARDO FREDDI CONNECTS
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LOWER CROP LEVELS IN ITALY IN 2023
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HOW ARMAGNAC, COGNAC AND GIN ARE RE
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PATRICE PIVETEAU, CELLAR MASTER AT
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LÉGENDES LÉGENDES DAVID FLOIRAC,
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SPIRITS SUCCESS STORY TRÉSOR GIN M
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THE VEUVE GOUDOULIN TEAM, LEFT TO R
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VÍSSIMO, THE BRAZILIAN CHAMPION BY
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ARI GORENSTEIN, CEO OF VÍSSIMO SPR
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BRAZIL IMPORTER WHEREAS TRADITIONAL
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LOIRE VALLEY DISCOVERY CHÂTEAU D
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LOIRE VALLEY DISCOVERY brother Maxi
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LOIRE VALLEY DISCOVERY grape variet
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ANTOINE VÉRON AT DOMAINE LAVIGNE S
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MALBEC, THE SIGNATURE VARIETAL THAT
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A TEAM DRIVEN BY A VERY CLEAR PHILO
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ARGENTINA GRAPE other varieties. We
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FAMILIA CROTTA PRODUCES 18 MILLION
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PATRICIO PEREYRA IRAOLA, DIRECTOR O
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SPAIN APPELLATION THE CHARDONNAY AN
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CÉSAR AND JUAN LANGA GONZÁLEZ, WI
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BODEGAS LANGA’S EXPORTS TO OVER 3
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CHRISTEL WEEMAES AND CHRISTOPHER HE
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SPAIN APPELLATION ALL ¡HOLA! CAVA
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STARS & WINE SARAH JESSICA PARKER H
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CONTACT DETAILS Loire Valley - Page
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SOUTH AFRICA - BREEDEKLOOF OUR WINT
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SPAIN - CAVA D.O. OUR WINTER SELECT
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SPAIN - CAVA D.O. OUR WINTER SELECT
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CHAMPAGNE - CHAMPAGNE OUR WINTER SE
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CHAMPAGNE - CHAMPAGNE OUR WINTER SE
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ARGENTINA - VALLE DE UCO OUR WINTER
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ITALY - VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPE
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